THE MORMON TRAIL
If while we were at our camp near Laramie on the bank of the North
Platte we could have turned the wheels of time backward just nineteen
years, we might have seen the first pioneer Mormon train in a long,
straggling line slowly trekking across the trackless sands down the
western slope that leads to the shore of that turbulent river, for this
was the point where that band ferried the stream in a flat boat.
According to the description of the expedition given in the diary of
William Clayton, who was one of the party, and in our personal
interviews with other participants, it was a promiscuous line of
vehicles, seventy-two in all. Some of them were drawn each by two oxen,
others by horses, and still others by mules. One hundred and forty-three
men and boys and three women composed the party, the greater number
being on foot. A few cows were driven in the rear. For seven weeks they
had been pushing their way across the trackless plain, marking out the
first white man's path that had been traced north of the Platte.
Their wagon tracks were followed year after year, chiefly by teams of
Mormon emigrants, and came to be known as the Mormon trail. Some of
these trains consisted in part of hand carts drawn by men and women
struggling to reach the desert valley in the mountains. Nearly every
curve in the course of this trail until near the junction of the North
and South Platte Rivers was followed later by the Union Pacific Railway
as originally laid, its ties along much of its course being placed in
the tracks of the first Mormon wagons. The railroad in recent years has
been appreciably straightened. The Mormon trail entered the Oregon trail
at the point where our boys were camped. This Mormon pilgrimage, as
described in Mormon annals that were kindly furnished me by Mr. Jensen
(at one time their church historian) reads like the exodus of the
Children of Israel through the deserts of Arabia; and Brigham Young was
the Moses. On reaching the river at the point where we were camped, they
were famishing with hunger. With the aid of a boat made of ox hides,
they ferried some Oregon emigrants over the upper Platte in exchange for
flour, which in their Thanksgiving service they described as manna sent
from heaven. Fiery serpents were stated to have been encountered at
various times, but later pilgrims have encountered nothing worse than
rattlesnakes. They were surprised to find bitter waters along this
unknown pathway, and their stock was suffering from thirst, but those
who followed them found only alkali ponds, which indeed sometimes proved
fatal to horses. They met hostile Indians, who were quite as much to be
feared as were the giant sons of Anak, or the large-limbed Og of Bashan.
This movement of the Mormons marks an important epoch in the physical
development of the vast deserts of the West. They were the first
emigrants to plant a successful colony between the Missouri and the
Pacific Coast. If there ever was an apparently hopeless desert, on which
agriculture would seem to be utterly impracticable, it was that which
lies around and west of the Great Salt Lake. The climate was arid, and
the dry soil was loaded with alkaline salts, supposedly destructive to
most vegetable life. Risking the hazards of famine in a venture hitherto
untried, they solved the problem of arousing the latent energies of an
acrid, sterile soil in an arid climate, and made the desert bloom.
True, the Babylonians and the Egyptians had practiced irrigation of
rich, alluvial soils, but except as may be indicated by some ancient but
now dry ditches toward our Mexican border, these Mormon colonists appear
to be the first people to introduce a successful system of irrigation in
this country; and this was the beginning of a new era for the Central
West.
In the endeavor to describe what the early nation builders really did,
rather than to attempt to show what they were, we note the fact that in
these annals of this first Mormon expedition are recorded from time to
time the latitude and longitude, also the elevation above sea level of
various points of their journey, the approximate accuracy of which is
confirmed by later official surveys. In reviewing another diary of that
first journey I find mention on each Sabbath (with two exceptions) of a
rest on the journey, with regular religious services; and for those two
days the record is indefinite.
A road-meter was constructed in the early part of the journey, which
recorded the distances traveled. The greater number of these emigrants
were Yankees and would be sure to devise everything needed that was
within the range of human ingenuity and of their limited resources. In
spite, therefore, of their poverty, they were prepared to adopt the most
advanced methods of agriculture known in any country at that day.
It was an agreeable change to leave the level lands of the Platte region
and enter the rough and broken country that characterizes the approach
to the mountains. On our left rose the Laramie range, its highest peak
being a prominent object of interest to us during many days. Although we
were gradually ascending toward the great Continental divide, there
were, nevertheless, many steep descents to make, as our road traversed
the great folds on the earth's surface. One morning, after toiling for
miles up a long ascent we unexpectedly found ourselves on the brink of
an exceedingly steep declivity where our trail suddenly dropped down
nearly a thousand feet, by a frightful grade. We carefully considered
the problem before us, for it was evident that even with the brakes set
it would be impossible for the horses to hold the load behind them for
so great a distance without finally losing control; and there was no
resting place at any point down the long incline. The danger of a
toboggan ride behind runaway horses was to be avoided. Our lightest
wagon with a driver was prepared to start on the first trial. The wheels
were locked, the felloes were wound with chains, and a drag rope was put
out behind. Thus the wagon slowly ground its way downward until it
disappeared beyond a curve far below in the valley. One wagon was run
backward down a steep pitch, long ropes being used behind it, and was
anchored from time to time to available objects.
Throughout this country there were evidences of great upheavals and
faults in the rocks, the surface, as we crossed it, suddenly changing
from clay to sandstone on edge within a rod of travel. Steep hills of
sand alternated with others of clay or rock. For a distance of several
miles a sheer precipice 80 to 100 feet in height rose from a valley on
our left to a broad table-land which extended to the southward. At the
foot of those cliffs I saw great numbers of buffalo skeletons. A
freighter informed us that in the year 1850, he saw a band of Indians
stampede a great herd of buffalo upon those uplands. Forming a line in
the rear of the animals, the Indians rushed upon them with yells and
rattles and inciting a panic drove the beasts over the rocky precipice
where uncounted numbers were maimed or killed by their own great weight,
and the impact of others which fell upon them from the heights above. I
have watched the stampeding of many buffalo herds and have observed that
almost invariably they run in compact masses, like a flock of sheep.
Their heads being held very low, those not in front are unable to see
anything beyond the hairy flanks of the animals immediately before them
between which their noses are closely crowded. Their leaders in a
stampede soon become leaders only in name, for they are pressed forward
by the powerful monsters behind them, which, in a solid mass push
everything forward, regardless of any pitfalls that may be in the way. A
herd thus driven in a mass over such a cliff as we have described must
have been like a vast Niagara of living, roaring, and bellowing
monsters. At the foot of the precipice, when the work was done, there
would lie piled high one above another in a deep windrow the quivering
bodies of hundreds of buffalo. This explained the piles of buffalo
skeletons at the foot of the cliffs. This method of capturing the
buffalo was employed, because the Indians were able to sell the skins to
the fur traders; and from the best information available it would appear
that no more than four pounds of cheap brown sugar or its equivalent in
some other commodity was regarded as a fair price for the trader to pay
for a good, Indian-tanned robe.
The buffalo skeletons that had been left upon many parts of these vast
hunting grounds remained until railroads penetrated the wilderness, when
they were gathered and shipped by train loads, chiefly to St. Louis, to
be used in the arts or to be converted into fertilizers.
Statistics are given in another chapter which show approximately the
number of millions of skeletons thus assembled and shipped. It is a sad
commentary on American improvidence to note the passing in one
generation of these valuable animals which, with their natural increase,
had they been protected with reasonable care, were sufficiently numerous
to have furnished our entire nation with meat for many generations to
come. The white man, who is chiefly responsible for this wanton
slaughter, is still relentlessly pursuing the few remaining elk, deer,
and other harmless wild game.
On the day after leaving Laramie, one of my weeks of service as chef and
general purveyor for the party terminated. The interesting affairs of
the treaty had caused me in some degree to slight my responsibilities.
The day now in question was the day for beans, and they were really
served quite raw. Although our teeth were sound, it was found difficult
to crack the hard kernels. There were other members of our party who,
during their service as cooks, had been the objects of occasional
criticism, chiefly because of the hard, tough bread they had furnished.
It was now alleged by Pete that appetites had been in waiting for beans,
and when they were served, some words were uttered that bordered on
profanity; in general terms the cuisine of this particular occasion was
characterized as damnable. The bacon was said to be "all right," but the
bread was as heavy as a cake of putty, and if the stuff was allowed to
get between the teeth, a sharp instrument would be required to remove
it. It was declared that the beans, to which they had been looking
forward with great expectation, were like gravel, and if introduced into
the stomach might require a surgical operation to remove them. "That's
all right, Pete," I replied, "this is the wild and free life on the
plains. We were told all about this business before we started. Even the
Children of Israel, the chosen people, lived for a long time in the
wilderness on bread that had never been cooked. Of course they grumbled
just as everybody grumbles who want the same old stuff they had when
they were babies in Egypt." Pete assured me with great earnestness that
he was not an Israelite, that in his opinion my talk was all ridiculous
nonsense; and dramatically pointing to the old black kettle that rested
over the smouldering fire he said with a marked emphasis on each word,
"_I speak now of those beans_."
After this definite particularization of the point at issue, there was a
pause. The coffee had been disposed of and two or three of the boys
wandered off to look after their horses. Pete, who was bent upon the
inauguration of a reform, indicated his desire to make a few
post-prandial remarks, whereupon those who remained gathered round the
dying embers of the sage brush fire. The dirty, half empty tin plates
still remained upon the ground, and while the party were seated, Pete
rose to his feet as if with the determination to deliver his words with
vigor and effect. Then with compressed lips and a look of earnestness
upon his face, he pointed again to the old kettle in which some beans
still simmered, and proceeded with his diatribe.
[Illustration: SAGE BRUSH GROWTH]
"Boys, I want to say a word about beans, yes, about those beans right
there in that kettle. Beans are getting damn scarce, and the first
thing we know, our beans will all be gone and we ain't had any, and
can't get any. Now, I like beans and am hungry, but I don't like 'em raw
and," with a vigorous expletive, "I won't stand it."
Now Pete's life had been spent largely in a country hotel. When I mildly
replied that our cooking in general compared very favorably with that of
some articles which I had seen served on the table of that hotel, Pete's
indignation was still more aroused. I had been sitting as quietly as
possible upon a box, but it suddenly became evident that my comfort and
possibly my safety depended upon a change of base, for Pete was a
powerful fellow and several years my senior. Moreover, I regarded my
head as of far greater importance than my reputation as a sage brush
cook, nor did I relish the thought of being buried in Wyoming simply to
afford momentary gratification to a traveling companion, who had found
no pleasure in half-cooked beans. And now came Dan Trippe in the _rôle_
of mediator.
"Pete, you're densely ignorant," said Dan, as he also rose to his feet
and faced Pete. "Don't you know that water boils at 212 degrees at sea
level? In this high altitude it hardly gets hot when it boils. Any
intelligent man knows that it can be made no hotter in the open air than
boiling point. It requires hot water to boil beans. The head cook of the
Astor house couldn't boil beans satisfactorily up here. I couldn't do it
myself."
Pete was visibly impressed with this profound philosophical statement,
and with the wonders of the West, and after Dan had fully elaborated his
theory, seemed to be convinced that the reasoning was possibly correct.
After a minute of cogitation apparently in the endeavor to comprehend
the argument, Pete slowly replied, "It's all right, boys, but no more
high-altitude-cooked beans for me." Taking his tin plate with what
remained upon it, without comment, he conveyed it to one of his horses,
and the incident was closed. The boys, each of whom had at times failed
to secure satisfactory results in cooking, were really amused by the
discussion, for they realized that even experts under the most favorable
conditions sometimes fail to please fastidious appetites. Conditions
arising in one's experience in a rough vagrant life, are calculated to
bring to the surface previously unknown qualities in human nature. Pete
would at any time divide his last good biscuit with another, or stand
ready to defend a companion to the end, but he was now desperately
hungry. Happily our party was, in general, harmonious.
Throughout this country the same names are often applied to various
distinct objects. On one evening we camped at one of the so-called Horse
Shoe Creeks, a bright and sparkling stream. In that vicinity wild game
was abundant. A few soldiers, who occupied a cabin nearby, had on that
day dragged to their camp the huge body of a fine grizzly bear, which
they had killed. After its skin was removed I assisted in dissecting
some portions of the animal and in that operation became especially
interested in the wonderful muscles of one of its arms. These were an
indication of the herculean strength which these formidable beasts
possess. The arm itself was much larger than would be believed from a
judgment formed on seeing the animal in all its perfect proportions. Its
muscles were not only remarkably large, but they were so tense and firm
that with a keen knife it was difficult to sever them.
The soldiers stated that recently a grizzly had been brought to bay some
distance south of their cabin, and after receiving several bullets from
large calibre rifles it fell upon its side and lay motionless. The
opinion was that at least one bullet had reached a vital spot. Knowing,
however, that the grizzly bear has wonderful vitality, unequalled
perhaps by any other wild beast, one of the party as a precaution
hastened to their cabin and unleashed three powerful dogs, which
returned with the soldier. The dogs were soon barking, howling and
dashing round the recumbent monster in the most excited manner, keeping
somewhat at a distance, but not a movement nor sign of life was
discovered in the wounded animal. Becoming bolder and perhaps encouraged
by the men and by each other, the dogs approached closer toward the head
of the grizzly, while they continued to bark and snap their teeth,
keeping their eyes at all times upon the enemy. They were almost near
enough to take the coveted nip with their teeth, when suddenly and
unexpectedly even to the men, the grizzly made two or three quick
motions with one paw which to all appearances were as soft and gentle as
would be made by a kitten. Each of the dogs was thrown several feet and
killed instantly by a little tap with that paw. The grizzly had not
lifted his head from the ground, but there remained in him enough life,
with his tremendous strength and celerity of motion, still to do a vast
amount of damage if given an opportunity. Bear hunters have learned that
it is not safe to trifle with a grizzly until sure that its last breath
of life is gone.
It was after leaving Horseshoe that I ran across an acquaintance, who
with two companions had been hunting in Colorado. All were witnesses and
vouched for the truth of the story then told me. My friend had the
reputation of having brought down nearly every kind of game in the West,
but had long grieved because he had been unable to corner a grizzly.
Finally one autumn day while the three were hunting in a narrow, wooded
gorge, they observed their dogs to be in a state of great trepidation,
which led them to discover two magnificent specimens of _Ursus
Horribilis_, but a few rods away, a sight which they had previously
supposed would cause their hearts to leap with joy. The great beasts on
being discovered rose simultaneously upon their hind feet and stood side
by side facing the hunters. Their mouths, as if inclined to smile,
were slightly open, displaying sets of superb white teeth. The
expression on their countenances was one combining dignity and perfect
self-confidence. The hunters declared to me that although eight feet
might be a fair estimate, the animals appeared to them to be forty feet
in height. And there they were--two magnificent specimens of an animal
which for strength, ferocity, and endurance combined, probably has no
equal. The dogs were quite in the background but it was certain that
something was likely to happen in the near future if an attack should be
made. The hunter frankly confessed that he said to his companions, "I've
been hunting for a grizzly for months. I've found two and only wanted
one. Let's go home." The dogs were well out of the valley before the
hunters lost sight of the bears.
On leaving Fort Laramie our train as usual became separated from the
others, but we soon found ourselves in company with some emigrants
coming from the middle states. Among them were several comparatively
young, married people, also three or four young women. Some of these
emigrants were destined to Montana, to cast their fortunes in that new
country, which none of them had ever seen. They appeared to be a
vigorous, intelligent, and in some instances cultured company of men
and women, worthy and well-fitted to establish a new settlement. They
were taking with them cows, chickens, and a more complete supply of
household comforts than we saw at any other time on our travels. We
understood that their purpose was to adopt the Mormon method of farming
by irrigation. One of the young women was intending to establish a
school for the little colony.
One evening after a pleasant interview with some members of the company,
one of the young men brought us a pail of milk as a token of good will.
A bouquet of roses is without doubt an acceptable gift to one who is
surfeited with all that appeals to the appetite, but after having
survived two months upon fried bacon and tough bread, one's stomach
becomes wonderfully responsive to some of the staple, commonplace
luxuries to which it was once accustomed. This incident led us to "warm
up" very closely to the party with the cows.
On the following day our two parties came up with a large mule outfit
known as Kuykendall's train. Its captain, who was familiar with the
country, informed us that if we desired to go by the South Pass we were
on the wrong trail, that the one which we were now taking was known as
the "cut off" and soon trended to the North. We must return to Horseshoe
Creek. It was then discovered that the emigrants represented two
parties, one of which also decided to go by the South Pass. The entire
train was halted for re-organization, after which those who were to
retrace their course turned their teams toward the east and ranged them
along side by side with the main body.
Travelers often remember with great pleasure the passing acquaintance of
those who have been agreeable companions for a brief time in foreign
travel on the luxurious steamers upon the ocean, or on the Nile; and
possibly even more interesting might such acquaintance become in lands
outside the beaten paths pursued by one's own countrymen. This, however,
can hardly compare with the profound interest and concern that one feels
toward the companions of a wandering life in the wilderness, where
travelers are held together for mutual support and protection. Thus it
was on our separation from this party of emigrants and the train of
freighters, whose trying ordeal was soon to come. Some of the members
promised to communicate with us at Salt Lake City and inform us
concerning their trip. With expressions of mutual good will and hopes
for each other's safety, we parted and moved on in opposite directions,
while slowly the unpitying distance widened between us.
"One ship drives East, another drives West,
While the self-same breezes blow;
'Tis the set of the sails, and not the gales
That bids them where to go."
It may be stated here that the emigrant party did communicate with us.
It was not many weeks after our arrival in Salt Lake, that two of the
young men came to that city and informed us that after we turned back
they had moved on in advance of the big mule train and near the close of
the day after we separated and while their wagons were corralled in camp,
they were surrounded by savages. Being well armed, they resisted a
prolonged attack. Every animal they had was captured and run off by the
Indians. The party was relieved by a detachment of mounted soldiers who,
through some agency to them unknown, had learned that they were in
trouble. The women passed through the ordeal bravely, fighting side by
side with their husbands and brothers, well knowing what capture would
mean to them. After but little loss of life they were enabled to move
their wagons by consolidation with the other outfit, which had a similar
experience. This attack took place on the 15th of July after assurances
from the post sutler and others at Fort Laramie that the Indians were
satisfied and no trouble need be expected. Red Cloud and his band,
scattered through that country, were on the warpath.
Our party, in company with the emigrants who had decided to retrace
their steps on reaching the proper trail, proceeded onward toward the
west. The road was rough with many steep inclines but there were fine
streams like LaBonte and LaParelle, which afforded welcome camp grounds.
Although the days were hot and clear, the nights were cool, and the two
parties naturally gravitated toward each other around the camp fires.
The younger travelers fortunately found others of a similar age. Three
young ladies, ranging in age from eighteen to twenty-two years, were a
rare sight in that country. But they were with us, and living in a
manner that indicated they had been accustomed to many of the good
things of a well-ordered home. The most luxurious banquet in which I was
permitted to share in those days was spread one evening before our bacon
and coffee had been served. Some liberal slices of peach pie were sent
to us from our neighbor's camp--dried peach pie, of course, but _peach
pie_ nevertheless. Fast for weeks on dried paste and bacon scraps;
travel every day from morning till night over difficult roads; and then
in the cool of some evening, when hungry and empty, receive a peach pie
made by a woman who knows how to make it, and you know what a banquet
really means. As it was said to have been the first occasion during
their trip on which they had undertaken to prepare this kind of pastry,
we recognized the event as a special dispensation. Fred was absent from
the train on the following day for an unusual length of time, and
sufficiently long almost to cause uneasiness on our part, but when I saw
him come in with an antelope over his saddle, I knew the girls in the
other camp would have the choicest cut of antelope steak for breakfast.
In time, after climbing over hills and traversing rough prairies, we
reached Fort Caspar, near which was the only bridge across the North
Platte River. On receiving orders that we should not be permitted to
proceed beyond the west valley until the regulation number of wagons
and men had been assembled, we were allowed to cross. A toll of five
dollars per wagon enabled us to reach the other shore. We passed on
three-fourths of a mile beyond the bridge, where the parties separated
and camped.