PART II

XXV

DIPLOMACY IN MOROCCO

"The Beheaded was abusing the Flayed:

One with her throat cut passed by, and exclaimed,

'God deliver us from such folk!'"

_Moorish Proverb._

Instead of residing at the Court of the Sultan, as might be expected,

the ministers accredited to the ruler of Morocco take up their abode

in Tangier, where they are more in touch with Europe, and where there

is greater freedom for pig-sticking. The reason for this is that the

Court is not permanently settled anywhere, wintering successively at

one of the three capitals, Fez, Marrákesh, or Mequinez. Every few

years, when anything of note arises; when there is an accumulation of

matters to be discussed with the Emperor, or when a new representative

has been appointed, an embassy to Court is undertaken, usually in

spring or autumn, the best times to travel in this roadless land.

What happens on these embassies has often enough been related from the

point of view of the performers, but seldom from that of residents in

the country who know what happens, and the following peep behind the

scenes, though fortunately not typical of all, is not exaggerated.

Even more might have been told under some heads. As strictly

applicable to no Power at present represented in Morocco, the record

is that of an imaginary embassy from Greece some sixty or more years

ago. To prevent misconception, it may be as well to add that it was

written previous to the failure of the mission of Sir Charles Euan

Smith.

I. THE RECEPTION

In a sloop-of-war sent all the way from the Ægean, the Ambassador

and his suite sailed from Tangier to Saffi, where His Excellency was

received on landing by a Royal salute from the crumbling batteries.

The local governor and the Greek vice-consul awaited him on leaving

the surf boat, with an escort which sadly upset the operations of

women washing wool by the water-port. Outside the land-gate, beside

the ancient palace, was pitched a Moorish camp awaiting his arrival,

and European additions were soon erected beside it. At daybreak next

morning a luncheon-party rode forward, whose duty it was to prepare

the midday meal for the embassy, and to pitch the awning under which

they should partake of it.

Arrived at the spot selected, Drees, the "native agent," found the

village sheïkh awaiting him with ample supplies, enough for every one

for a couple of days. This he carefully packed on his mules, and by

the time the embassy came up, having started some time later than he,

after a good breakfast, he was ready to go on again with the remainder

of the muleteers and the camel-drivers to prepare the evening meal and

pitch for the night a camp over which waved the flag of Greece.

Here the offerings of provisions or money were made with equal

profusion. There were bushels of kesk'soo; there were several live

sheep, which were speedily despatched and put into pots to cook; there

were jars of honey, of oil, and of butter; there were camel-loads of

barley for the beasts of burden, and trusses of hay for their dessert;

there were packets of candles by the dozen, and loaves of sugar and

pounds of tea; not to speak of fowls, of charcoal, of sweet herbs, of

fruits, and of minor odds and ends.

By the time the Europeans arrived, their French _chef_ had prepared an

excellent dinner, the native escort and servants squatting in groups

round steaming dishes provided ready cooked by half-starved villagers.

When the feasting was over, and all seemed quiet, a busy scene was in

reality being enacted in the background. At a little distance from

the camp, Háj Marti, the right-hand man of the agent, was holding a

veritable market with the surplus mona of the day, re-selling to

the miserable country folk what had been wrung from them by the

authorities. The Moorish Government declared that what they paid thus

in kind would be deducted from their taxes, and this was what the

Minister assured his questioning wife, for though he knew better, he

found it best to wink at the proceedings of his unpaid henchman.

As they proceeded inland, on the border of each local jurisdiction the

escort was changed with an exhibition of "powder-play," the old one

retiring as the new one advanced with the governor at its head. Thus

they journeyed for about a week, till they reached the crumbling walls

of palm-begirt Marrákesh.

The official _personnel_ of the embassy consisted of the Minister

and his secretary Nikolaki Glymenopoulos, with Ayush ben Lezrá, the

interpreter. The secretary was a self-confident dandy with a head like

a pumpkin and a scrawl like the footprints of a wandering hen; reputed

a judge of ladies and horse-flesh; supercilious, condescending to

inferiors, and the plague of his tailor. The consul, Paolo Komnenos, a

man of middle age with a kindly heart, yet without force of character

to withstand the evils around him, had been left in Tangier as _Chargé

d'Affaires_, to the great satisfaction of his wife and family, who

considered themselves of the _crême de la crême_ of Tangier society,

such as it was, because, however much the wife of the Minister

despised the bumptiousness of Madame Komnenos, she could not omit her

from her invitations, unless of the most private nature, on account

of her husband's official position. Now, as Madame Mavrogordato

accompanied her husband with her little son and a lady friend, the

consul's wife reigned supreme.

Then there were the official _attachés_ for the occasion, the

representative of the army, a colonel of Roman nose, and eyes which

required but one glass between them, a man to whom death would have

been preferable to going one morning unshaved, or to failing one jot

in military etiquette; and the representative of the navy, in cocked

hat and gold-striped pantaloons, who found it more difficult to avoid

tripping over his sword than most landsmen do to keep from stumbling

over coils of rope on ship-board; beyond his costume there was little

of note about him; his genial character made it easy to say "Ay, ay,"

to any one, but the yarns he could spin round the camp-fire made him

a general favourite. The least consequential of the party was the

doctor, an army man of honest parts, who wished well to all the world.

Undoubtedly he was the hardest worked of the lot, for no one else did

anything but enjoy himself.

Finally there were the "officious" _attachés_. Every dabbler in

politics abroad knows the fine distinctions between "official" and

"officious" action, and how subtle are the changes which can be rung

upon the two, but there was nothing of that description here. The

officious _attachés_ were simply a party of the Minister's personal

friends, and two or three strangers whose influence might in after

times be useful to him. One was of course a journalist, to supply the

special correspondence of the _Acropolis_ and the _Hellenike Salpinx_.

These would afterwards be worked up into a handy illustrated volume of

experiences and impressions calculated to further deceive the public

with regard to Morocco and the Moors, and to secure for the Minister

his patron, the longed-for promotion to a European Court. Another was

necessarily the artist of the party, while the remainder engaged in

sport of one kind or another.

Si Drees, the "native agent," was employed as master of horse, and

superintended the native arrangements generally. With him rested every

detail of camping out, and the supply of food and labour. Right and

left he was the indispensable factotum, shouting himself hoarse from

before dawn till after sunset, when he joined the gay blades of the

Embassy in private pulls at forbidden liquors. No one worked as hard

as he, and he seemed omnipresent. The foreigners were justly thankful

to have such a man, for without him all felt at sea. He appeared to

know everything and to be available for every one's assistance. The

only draw-back was his ignorance of Greek, or of any language but his

own, yet being sharp-witted he made himself wonderfully understood by

signs and a few words of the strange coast jargon, a mixture of half a

dozen tongues.

The early morning was fixed for the solemn entry of the Embassy into

the city, yet the road had to be lined on both sides with soldiers

to keep back the thronging crowds. Amid the din of multitudes, the

clashing of barbarous music, and shrill ululations of delight from

native women; surrounded by an eastern blaze of sun and blended

colours, rode incongruous the Envoy from Greece. His stiff, grim

figure, the embodiment of officialism, in full Court dress, was

supported on either hand by his secretary and interpreter, almost as

resplendent as himself. Behind His Excellency rode the _attachés_ and

other officials, then the ladies; newspaper correspondents, artists,

and other non-official guests, bringing up the rear. In this order

the party crossed the red-flowing Tansift by its low bridge of many

arches, and drew near to the gate of Marrákesh called that of the

Thursday [market], Báb el Khamees.

[Illustration: _Molinari, Photo., Tangier._

A CITY GATEWAY IN MOROCCO.]

At last they commenced to thread the narrow winding streets, their

bordering roofs close packed with shrouded figures only showing an

eye, who greeted them after their fashion with a piercing, long-drawn,

"Yoo-yoo, yoo-yoo; yoo-yoo, yoo-yoo; yoo-yoo, yoo-yoo--oo," so novel

to the strangers, and so typical. Then they crossed the wide-open

space before the Kûtûbîyah on their way to the garden which had been

prepared for them, the Mamûnîyah, with its handsome residence and

shady walks.

Three days had to elapse from the time of their arrival before they

could see the Sultan, for they were now under native etiquette, but

they had much to occupy them, much to see and think about, though

supposed to remain at home and rest till the audience. On the morning

of the fourth day all was bustle. Each had to array himself in such

official garb as he could muster, with every decoration he could

borrow, for the imposing ceremony of the presentation to the Emperor.

What a business it was! what a coming and going; what noise and what

excitement! It was like living in the thick of a whirling pantomime.

At length they were under way, and making towards the kasbah gate in a

style surpassing that of their entry, the populace still more excited

at the sight of the gold lace and cocked hats which showed what great

men had come to pay their homage to their lord the Sultan. On arrival

at the inmost courtyard with whitewashed, battlemented walls, and

green-tiled roofs beyond, they found it thickly lined with soldiers,

a clear space being left for them in the centre. Here they were all

ranged on foot, the presents from King Otho placed on one side, and

covered with rich silk cloths. Presently a blast of trumpets silenced

the hum of voices, and the soldiers made a show of "attention" in

their undrilled way, for the Sultan approached.

In a moment the great doors on the other side flew open, and a

number of gaily dressed natives in peaked red caps--the Royal

body-guard--emerged, followed by five prancing steeds, magnificent

barbs of different colours, richly caparisoned, led by gold-worked

bridles. Then came the Master of the Ceremonies in his flowing robes

and monster turban, a giant in becoming dress, and--as they soon

discovered--of stentorian voice. Behind him rode the Emperor himself

in stately majesty, clothed in pure white, wool-white, distinct amid

the mass of colours worn by those surrounding him, his ministers. The

gorgeous trappings of his white steed glittered as the proud beast

arched his neck and champed his gilded bit, or tried in vain to

prance. Over his head was held by a slave at his side the only sign of

Royalty, a huge red-silk umbrella with a fringe to match, and a golden

knob on the point, while others of the household servants flicked the

flies away, or held the spurs, the cushion, the carpet, and other

things which might be called for by their lord.

On his appearance deafening shouts broke forth, "God bless our Lord,

and give him victory!" The rows of soldiers bowed their heads and

repeated the cry with still an increase of vigour, "God bless our

Lord, and give him victory!" At a motion from the Master of the

Ceremonies the members of the Embassy took off their hats or helmets,

and the representative of modern Greece stood there bareheaded in a

broiling sun before the figure-head of ancient Barbary. As the Sultan

approached the place where he stood, he drew near and offered a few

stereotyped words in explanation of his errand, learned by heart, to

which the Emperor replied by bidding him welcome. The Minister then

handed to him an engrossed address in a silk embroided case, which

an attendant was motioned to take, the Sultan acknowledging it

graciously. One by one the Minister next introduced the members of his

suite, their names and qualities being shouted in awful tones by the

Master of the Ceremonies, and after once more bidding them welcome,

but with a scowl at the sight of Drees, His Majesty turned his horse's

head, leaving them to re-mount as their steeds were brought to

them. Again the music struck up with a deafening din, and the state

reception was over.

But this was not to be the only interview between the Ambassador and

the Sultan, for several so-called private conferences followed, at

which an attendant or two and the interpreter Ayush were present.

Kyrios Mavrogordato's stock of polite workable Arabic had been

exhausted at the public function, and for business matters he had to

rely implicitly on the services of his handy Jew. Such other notions

of the language as he boasted could only be addressed to inferiors,

and that but to convey the most simple of crude instructions or

curses.

At the first private audience there were many matters of importance to

be brought before the Sultan's notice, afterwards to be relegated to

the consideration of his wazeers. This time no fuss was made, and the

affair again came off in the early morning, for His Majesty rose at

three, and after devotions and study transacted official business from

five to nine, then breakfasting and reserving the rest of the day for

recreation and further religious study.

II. THE INTERVIEW

At the appointed time an escort waited on the Ambassador[18] to convey

him to the palace, arrived at which he was led into one of the many

gardens in the interior, full of luxuriant semi-wild vegetation. In

a room opening on to one side of the garden sat the Emperor,

tailor-fashion, on a European sofa, elevated by a sort of daïs

opposite the door. With the exception of an armchair on the lower

level, to which the Ambassador was motioned after the usual formal

obeisances and expressions of respect, the chamber was absolutely bare

of furniture, though not lacking in beauty of decoration. The floor

was of plain cut but elegant tiles, and the dado was a more intricate

pattern of the same in shades of blue, green, and yellow, interspersed

with black, but relieved by an abundance of greeny white. Above this,

to the stalactite cornice, the walls were decorated with intricate

Mauresque designs in carved white plaster, while the rich stalactite

roofing of deep-red tone, just tipped with purple and gilt, made a

perfect whole, and gave a feeling of repose to the design. Through the

huge open horse-shoe arch of the door the light streamed between the

branches of graceful creepers waving in the breeze, adding to the

impression of coolness caused by the bubbling fountain outside.

[18: Strictly speaking, only "Minister Plenipotentiary and

Envoy Extraordinary."]

"May God bless our Lord, and prolong his days!" said Ayush, bowing

profoundly towards the Sultan, as the Minister concluded the

repetition of his stock phrases, and seated himself.

"May it please Your Majesty," began the Minister, in Greek, "I cannot

express the honour I feel in again being commissioned to approach Your

Majesty in the capacity of Ambassador from my Sovereign, King Otho of

Greece."

This little speech was rendered into Arabic by Ayush to this effect--

"May God pour blessings on our Lord. The Ambassador rejoices greatly,

and is honoured above measure in being sent once more by his king to

approach the presence of our Lord, the high and mighty Sovereign: yes,

my Lord."

"He is welcome," answered the Sultan, graciously; "we love no nation

better than the Greeks. They have always been our friends."

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty is delighted to see Your Excellency, whom

he loves from his heart, as also your mighty nation, than which none

is more dear to him, and whose friendship he is ready to maintain at

any cost."

_Minister._ "It pleases me greatly to hear Your Majesty's noble

sentiments, which I, and I am sure my Government, reciprocate."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister is highly complimented by the gracious

words of our Lord, and declares that the Greeks love no other nation

on earth beside the Moors: yes, my Lord."

_Sultan._ "Is there anything I can do for such good friends?"

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty says he is ready to do anything for so

good a friend as Your Excellency."

_Minister._ "I am deeply grateful to His Majesty. Yes, there are one

or two matters which my Government would like to have settled."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister is simply overwhelmed at the thought of

the consideration of our Lord, and he has some trifling matters for

which perhaps he may beg our Lord's attention: yes, my Lord."

_Sultan._ "He has only to make them known."

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty will do all Your Excellency desires."

_Minister._ "First then, Your Majesty, there is the little affair of

the Greek who was murdered last year at Azîla. I am sure that I can

rely on an indemnity for his widow."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister speaks of the Greek who was murdered--by

your leave, yes, my Lord--at Azîla last year: yes, my Lord. The

Ambassador wishes him to be paid for."

_Sultan._ "How much does he ask?"

This being duly interpreted, the Minister replied--

"Thirty thousand dollars."

_Sultan._ "Half that sum would do, but we will see. What next?"

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty thinks that too much, but as Your

Excellency says, so be it."

_Minister._ "I thank His Majesty, and beg to bring to his notice the

imprisonment of a Greek _protégé_, Mesaûd bin Aûdah, at Mazagan some

months ago, and to ask for his liberation and for damages. This is a

most important case."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister wants that thief Mesaûd bin Aûdah, whom

the Báshá of Mazagan has in gaol, to be let out, and he asks also for

damages: yes, my Lord."

_Sultan._ "The man was no lawful _protégé_. I can do nothing in the

case. Bin Aûdah is a criminal, and cannot be protected."

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty fears that this is a matter in which he

cannot oblige Your Excellency, much as he would like to, since the man

in question is a thief. It is no use saying anything further about

this."

_Minister._ "Then ask about that Jew Botbol, who was thrashed. Though

not a _protégé_, His Majesty might be able to do something."

_Interpreter._ "His Excellency brings before our Lord a most serious

matter indeed; yes, my Lord. It is absolutely necessary that redress

should be granted to Maimon Botbol, the eminent merchant of Mogador

whom the kaïd of that place most brutally treated last year: yes, my

Lord. And this is most important, for Botbol is a great friend of His

Excellency, who has taken the treatment that the poor man received

very much to heart. He is sure that our Lord will not hesitate to

order the payment of the damages demanded, only fifty thousand

dollars."

_Sultan._ "In consideration of the stress the Minister lays upon this

case, he shall have ten thousand dollars."

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty will pay Your Excellency ten thousand

dollars damages."

_Minister._ "As that is more than I had even hoped to ask, you will

duly thank His Majesty most heartily for this spontaneous generosity."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister says that is not sufficient from our

Lord, but he will not oppose his will: yes, my Lord."

_Sultan._ "I cannot do more."

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty says it gives him great pleasure to pay

it."

_Minister._ "Now there is the question of slavery. I have here a

petition from a great society at Athens requesting His Majesty to

consider whether he cannot abolish the system throughout his realm,"

handing the Sultan an elaborate Arabic scroll in Syrian characters

hard to be deciphered even by the secretary to whom it is consigned

for perusal; the Sultan, though an Arabic scholar, not taking

sufficient interest in the matter to think of it again.

_Interpreter._ "There are some fanatics in the land of Greece, yes, my

Lord, who want to see slavery abolished here, by thy leave, yes, my

Lord, but I will explain to the Bashador that this is impossible."

_Sultan._ "Certainly. It is an unalterable institution. Those who

think otherwise are fools. Besides, your agent Drees deals in slaves!"

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty will give the petition his best attention,

and if possible grant it with pleasure."

_Minister._ "You will thank His Majesty very much. It will rejoice

my fellow-countrymen to hear it. Next, a Greek firm has offered to

construct the much-needed port at Tangier, if His Majesty will grant

us the concession till the work be paid for by the tolls. Such a

measure would tend to greatly increase the Moorish revenues."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister wishes to build a port at Tangier, yes,

my Lord, and to hold it till the tolls have paid for it."

_Sultan._ "Which may not be till Doomsday. Nevertheless, I

will consent to any one making the port whom all the European

representatives shall agree to appoint"--a very safe promise to make,

since the Emperor knew that this agreement was not likely to be

brought about till the said Domesday.

_Interpreter._ "Your Excellency's request is granted. You have only to

obtain the approval of your colleagues."

_Minister._ "His Majesty is exceedingly gracious, and I am

correspondingly obliged to him. Inform His Majesty that the same firm

is willing to build him bridges over his rivers, and to make roads

between the provinces, which would increase friendly communications,

and consequently tend to reduce inter-tribal feuds."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister thanks our Lord, and wants also to build

bridges and roads in the interior to make the tribes friendly by

intercourse."

_Sultan._ "That would never do. The more I keep the tribes apart the

better for me. If I did not shake up my rats in the sack pretty often,

they would gnaw their way out. Besides, where my people could travel

more easily, so could foreign invaders. No, I cannot think of such a

thing. God created the world without bridges."

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty is full of regret that in this matter he

is unable to please Your Excellency, but he thinks his country better

as it is."

_Minister._ "Although I beg to differ from His Majesty, so be it. Next

there is the question of our commerce with Morocco. This is greatly

hampered by the present lack of a fixed customs tariff. There are

several articles of which the exportation is now prohibited, which it

would be really very much in the interest of his people to allow us to

purchase."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister requests of our Lord a new customs

tariff, and the right to export wheat and barley."

_Sultan._ "The tariff he may discuss with the Wazeer of the Interior;

I will give instructions. As for the cereals, the bread of the

Faithful cannot be given to infidels."

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty accedes to your Excellency's request.

You have only to make known the details to the Minister for Internal

Affairs."

_Minister._ "Again I humbly render thanks to his Majesty. Since he is

so particularly good to me, perhaps he would add one kindness more, in

abandoning to me the old house and garden on the Marshan at Tangier,

in which the Foreign Minister used to live. It is good for nothing,

and would be useful to me."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister asks our Lord for a couple of houses

in Tangier. Yes, my Lord, the one formerly occupied by the Foreign

Minister on the Marshan at Tangier for himself; and the other

adjoining the New Mosque in town, just an old tumble-down place for

stores, to be bestowed upon me; yes, my Lord."

_Sultan._ "What sort of place is that on the Marshan?"

_Interpreter._ "I will not lie unto my lord. It is a fine big house

in a large garden, with wells and fruit trees: yes, my Lord. But the

other is a mere nothing: yes, my Lord."

_Sultan._ "I will do as he wishes--if it please God." (The latter

expression showing the reverse of an intention to carry out the

former.)

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty gives you the house."

_Minister._ "His Majesty is indeed too kind to me. I therefore regret

exceedingly having to bring forward a number of claims which have been

pending for a long time, but with the details of which I will not

of course trouble His Majesty personally. I merely desire his

instructions to the Treasury to discharge them on their being admitted

by the competent authorities."

_Interpreter._ "The Minister brings before our Lord a number of

claims, on the settlement of which he insists: yes, my Lord. He feels

it a disgrace that they should have remained unpaid so long: yes, my

Lord. And he asks for orders to be given to discharge them at once."

_Sultan._ "There is neither force nor power save in God, the High, the

Mighty. Glory to Him! There is no telling what these Nazarenes won't

demand next. I will pay all just claims, of course, but many of these

are usurers' frauds, with which I will have nothing to do."

_Interpreter._ "His Majesty will give the necessary instructions; but

the claims will have to be examined, as Your Excellency has already

suggested. His Majesty makes the sign of the conclusion of our

interview."

_Minister._ "Assure His Majesty how deeply indebted I am to him

for these favours he has shown me, but allow me to in some measure

acknowledge them by giving information of importance. I am entirely

_au courant_, through private channels, with the unworthy tactics of

the British Minister, as also those of his two-faced colleagues, the

representatives of France and Spain, and can disclose them to His

Majesty whenever he desires."

_Interpreter._ "His Excellency does not know how to express

his gratitude to our Lord for his undeserved and unprecedented

condescension, and feels himself bound the slave of our Lord, willing

to do all our Lord requires of his hands; yes, my lord. But he trusts

that our Lord will not forget the houses--and the one in town is only

a little one,--or the payment of the indemnity to Maimon Botbol, yes,

my Lord, or the discharging of the claims. God bless our Lord, and

give him victory! And also, pardon me, my Lord, the Minister says that

all the other ministers are rogues, and he knows all about them that

our Lord may wish to learn: yes, my Lord."

"God is omniscient. He can talk of those matters to the Foreign

Minister to-morrow. In peace!"

Once more a few of his stock phrases were man[oe]uvred by Kyrios

Mavrogordato, as with the most profound of rear-steering bows the

representatives of civilization retreated, and the potentate of

Barbary turned with an air of relief to give instructions to his

secretary.

III. THE RESULT

A few weeks after this interview the _Hellenike Salpinx_, a leading

journal of Athens, contained an article of which the following is a

translation:--

"OUR INTERESTS IN MOROCCO

"(_From our Special Correspondent_)

"Marrákesh, October 20.

"The success of our Embassy to Morocco is already assured, and

that in a remarkable degree. The Sultan has once more shown most

unequivocally his strong partiality for the Greek nation, and

especially for their distinguished representative, Kyrios Dimitri

Mavrogordato, whose personal tact and influence have so largely

contributed to this most thankworthy result. It is very many years

since such a number of requests have been granted by the Emperor

of Morocco to one ambassador, and it is probable that under the

most favourable circumstances no other Power could have hoped for

such an exhibition of favour.

"The importance of the concessions is sufficient to mark this

embassy in the history of European relations with Morocco,

independently of the amount of ordinary business transacted,

and the way in which the Sultan has promised to satisfy our

outstanding claims. Among other favours, permission has been

granted to a Greek firm to construct a port at Tangier, the chief

seat of foreign trade in the Empire, which is a matter of national

importance, and there is every likelihood of equally valuable

concessions for the building of roads and bridges being made to

the same company.

"Our merchants will be rejoiced to learn that at last the

vexatious customs regulations, or rather the absence of them,

will be replaced by a regular tariff, which our minister has

practically only to draw up for it to be sanctioned by the

Moorish Government. The question of slavery, too, is under the

consideration of the Sultan with a view to its restriction, if

not to its abolition, a distinct and unexpected triumph for the

friends of universal freedom. There can be no question that, under

its present enlightened ruler, Morocco is at last on the high-road

to civilization.

"Only those who have had experience in dealing with

procrastinating politicians of the eastern school can appreciate

in any degree the consummate skill and patience which is requisite

to overcome the sinuosities of oriental minds, and it is only such

a signal victory as has just been won for Greece and for progress

in Morocco, as can enable us to realize the value to the State of

such diplomatists as His Excellency, Kyrios Mavrogordato."

This article had not appeared in print before affairs on the spot wore

a very different complexion. At the interview with the Minister for

the Interior a most elaborate customs tariff had been presented and

discussed, some trifling alterations being made, and the whole being

left to be submitted to the Sultan for his final approval, with the

assurance that this was only a matter of form. The Minister of Finance

had promised most blandly the payment of the damages demanded for the

murder of the Greek and for the thrashing of the Jew. It was true that

as yet no written document had been handed to the Greek Ambassador,

but then he had the word of the Ministers themselves, and promises

from the Sultan's lips as well. The only _fait accompli_ was the

despatch of a courier to Tangier with orders to deliver up the keys

of two specified properties to the Ambassador and his interpreter

respectively, a matter which, strange to say, found no place in the

messages to the Press, and in which the spontaneous present to the

interpreter struck His Excellency as a most generous act on the part

of the Sultan.

Quite a number of state banquets had been given, in which the members

of the Embassy had obtained an insight into stylish native cooking,

writing home that half the dishes were prepared with pomatum and the

other half with rancid oil and butter. The _littérateur_ of the party

had nearly completed his work on Morocco, and was seriously thinking

of a second volume. The young _attachés_ could swear right roundly in

Arabic, and were becoming perfect connoisseurs of native beauty. In

the palatial residence of Drees, as well as in a private residence

which that worthy had placed at their disposal, they had enjoyed a

selection of native female society, and had such good times under the

wing of that "rare old cock," as they dubbed him, that one or two

began to feel as though they had lighted among the lotus eaters, and

had little desire to return.

But to Kyrios Mavrogordato and Glymenopoulos his secretary, the delay

at Court began to grow irksome, and they heartily wished themselves

back in Tangier. Notwithstanding the useful "tips" which he had given

to the Foreign Minister regarding the base designs of his various

colleagues accredited to that Court, his own affairs seemed to hang

fire. He had shown how France was determined to make war upon Morocco

sooner or later, with a view to adding its fair plains to those it

was acquiring in Algeria, and had warned him that if the Sultan lent

assistance to the Ameer Abd el Káder he would certainly bring this

trouble upon himself. He had also shown how England pretended

friendship because at any cost she must maintain at least the

neutrality of that part of his country bordering on the Straits of

Gibraltar, and that with all her professions of esteem, she really

cared not a straw for the Moors. He had shown too that puny Spain held

it as an article of faith that Morocco should one day become hers in

return for the rule of the Moors upon her own soil. He had, in fact,

shown that Greece alone cared for the real interests of the Sultan.

IV. DIAMOND CUT DIAMOND

Yet things did not move. The treaty of commerce remained unsigned, and

slaves were still bought and sold. The numerous claims which he had

to enforce had only been passed in part, and the Moorish authorities

seemed inclined to dispute the others stoutly. At last, at a private

conference with the Wazeer el Kiddáb, the Ambassador broached a

proposal to cut the Gordian knot. He would abandon all disputed claims

for a lump sum paid privately to himself, and asked what the Moorish

Government might feel inclined to offer.

The Wazeer el Kiddáb received this proposal with great complacency. He

was accustomed to such overtures. Every day of his life that style of

bargain was part of his business. But this was the first time that a

European ambassador had made such a suggestion in its nakedness, and

he was somewhat taken aback, though his studied indifference of manner

did not allow the foreigner to suspect such a thing for a moment. The

usual style had been for him to offer present after present to the

ambassadors till he had reached their price, and then, when his master

had overloaded them with personal favours--many of which existed but

in promise--they had been unable to press too hard the claims they had

come to enforce, for fear of possible disclosures. So this was a novel

proceeding, though quite comprehensible on the part of a man who had

been bribed on a less extensive scale on each previous visit to Court.

Once, however, such a proposition had been made, it was evident that

his Government could not be much in earnest regarding demands which he

could so easily afford to set aside.

As soon, therefore, as Kyrios Mavrogordato had left, the Wazeer

ordered his mule, that he might wait upon His Majesty before the hours

of business were over. His errand being stated as urgent and private,

he was admitted without delay to his sovereign's presence.

"May God prolong the days of our Lord! I come to say that the way to

rid ourselves of the importunity of this ambassador from Greece is

plain. He has made it so himself by offering to abandon all disputed

claims for a round sum down for his own use. What is the pleasure of

my Lord?"

"God is great!" exclaimed the Sultan, "that is well. You may inform

the Minister from me that a positive refusal is given to every demand

not already allowed in writing. What _he_ can afford to abandon, _I_

can't afford to pay."

"The will of our Lord shall be done."

"But stay! I have had my eye upon that Greek ambassador this long

while, and am getting tired of him. The abuses he commits are

atrocious, and his man Drees is a devil. Háj Taïb el Ghassál writes

that the number of his _protégés_ is legion, and that by far the

greater number of them are illegal. Inform him when you see him that

henceforth the provisions of our treaties shall be strictly adhered

to, and moreover that no protection certificates shall be valid unless

countersigned by our Foreign Commissioner El Ghassál. If I rule here,

I will put an end to this man's doings."

"On my head and eyes be the words of my Lord."

"And remind him further that the permits for the free passage of

goods at the customs are granted only for his personal use, for the

necessities of his household, and that the way Háj Taïb writes he has

been selling them is a disgrace. The man is a regular swindler, and

the less we have to do with him the better. As for his pretended

information about his colleagues, there may be a good deal of truth

in it, but I have the word of the English minister, who is about as

honest as any of them, that this Mavrogordato is a born villain,

and that if his Government is not greedy for my country on its own

account, it wants to sell me to some more powerful neighbour in

exchange for its protection. Greece is only a miserable fag-end of

Europe."

"Our Lord knows: may God give him victory," and the Wazeer bowed

himself out to consider how best he might obey his instructions, not

exactly liking the task. On returning home he despatched a messenger

to the quarters of the Embassy, appointing an hour on the morrow for a

conference, and when this came the Ambassador found himself in for a

stormy interview. The Wazeer, with his snuff-box in constant use,

sat cool and collected on his mattress on the floor, the Ambassador

sitting uneasily on a chair before him. Though the language used

was considerably modified in filtering through the brain of the

interpreter, the increasing violence of tone and gesture could not be

concealed, and were all but sufficiently comprehensible in themselves.

The Ambassador protested that if the remainder of the demands were

to be refused, he was entitled to at least as much as the French

representative had had to shut his mouth last time he came to Court,

and affected overwhelming indignation at the treatment he had

received.

"Besides," he added, "I have the promise of His Majesty the Sultan

himself that certain of them should be paid in full, and I cannot

abandon those. I have informed my Government of the Sultan's words."

"Dost suppose that my master is a dog of a Nazarene, that he should

keep his word to thee? Nothing thou may'st say can alter his decision.

The claims that have been allowed in writing shall be paid by the

Customs Administrators on thy return to Tangier. Here are orders for

the money."

"I absolutely refuse to accept a portion of what my Government

demands. I will either receive the whole, or I will return

empty-handed, and report on the treacherous way in which I have been

treated. I am thoroughly sick of the procrastinating and prevaricating

ways of this country--a disgrace to the age."

"And we are infinitely more sick of thy behaviour and thine abuse of

the favours we have granted thee. Our lord has expressly instructed

me to tell thee that in future no excess of the rights guaranteed to

foreigners by treaty will be permitted on any account. Thy protection

certificates to be valid must be endorsed by our Foreign Commissioner,

and the nature of the goods thou importest free of duty as for thyself

shall be strictly examined, as we have the right to do, that no more

defrauding of our revenue be permitted."

"Your words are an insult to my nation," exclaimed the Ambassador,

rising, "and shall be duly reported to my Government. I cannot sit

here and listen to vile impeachments like these; you know them to be

false!"

"That is no affair of mine; I have delivered the decision of our lord,

and have no more to say. The claims we refuse are all of them unjust,

the demands of usurers, on whom be the curse of God; and demands for

money which has never been stolen, or has already been paid; every one

of them is a shameful fraud, God knows. Leeches are only fit to be

trodden on when they have done their work; we want none of them."

"Your language is disgraceful, such as was never addressed to me in my

life before; if I do not receive an apology by noon to-morrow, I will

at once set out for Tangier, if not for Greece, and warn you of the

possible consequences."

* * * * *

The excitement in certain circles in Athens on the receipt of the

intelligence that the Embassy to Morocco had failed, after all the

flourish of trumpets with which its presumed successes had been

hailed, was great indeed. One might have thought that once more the

brave Hellenes were thirsting for the conquest of another Sicily, to

read the columns of the _Palingenesia_, some of the milder paragraphs

of which, translated, ran thus:--

"A solemn duty has been imposed upon our nation by the studied

indignities heaped upon our representative at the Court of

Morocco. Greece has been challenged, Europe defied, and the whole

civilized world insulted. The duty now before us is none other

than to wipe from the earth that nest of erstwhile pirates

flattered by the name of the Moorish Government....

"As though it were insufficient to have refused the just demands

presented by Kyrios Mavrogordato for the payment of business debts

due to Greek merchants, and for damages acknowledged to be due to

others for property stolen by lawless bandits, His Excellency has

been practically dismissed from the Court in a manner which has

disgraced our flag in the eyes of all Morocco.

"Here are two counts which need no exaggeration. Unless the

payment of just business debts is duly enforced by the Moorish

Government, as it would be in any other country, and unless the

native agents of our merchants are protected fully by the local

authorities, it is hopeless to think of maintaining commercial

relations with such a nation, so that insistence on these demands

is of vital necessity to our trade, and a duty to our growing

manufactories.

"The second count is of the simplest: such treatment as has been

meted out to our Minister Plenipotentiary in Morocco, especially

after the bland way in which he was met at first with empty

promises and smiles, is worthy only of savages or of a people

intent on war."

The _Hellenike Salpinx_ was hardly less vehement in the language in

which it chronicled the course of events in Morocco:--

"Notwithstanding the unprecedented manner in which the requests

of His Excellency, Kyrios Dimitri Mavrogordato, our Minister

Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary at the Court of Morocco,

were acceded to on the recent Embassy to Mulai Abd er-Rahmán, the

Moors have shown their true colours at last by equally marked, but

less astonishing, insults.

"The unrivalled diplomatic talents of our ambassador proved,

in fact, too much for the Moorish Government, and though the

discovery of the way in which a Nazarene was obtaining his desires

from the Sultan may have aroused the inherent obstinacy of the

wazeers, and thus produced the recoil which we have described, it

is far more likely that this was brought about by the officious

interference of one or two other foreign representatives at

Tangier. It has been for some time notorious that the Sardinian

consul-general--who at the same time represents Portugal--loses no

opportunity of undermining Grecian influence in Morocco, and in

this certain of his colleagues have undoubtedly not been far

behind him.

"Nevertheless, whatever causes may have been at work in bringing

about this crisis, it is one which cannot be tided over, but which

must be fairly faced. Greece has but one course before her."

XXVI

PRISONERS AND CAPTIVES

"Misfortune is misfortune's heir."

_Moorish Proverb._

Externally the gaol of Tangier does not differ greatly in appearance

from an ordinary Moorish house, and even internally it is of the

plan which prevails throughout the native buildings from fandaks to

palaces. A door-way in a blank wall, once whitewashed, gives access to

a kind of lobby, such as might precede the entrance to some grandee's

house, but instead of being neat and clean, it is filthy and dank, and

an unwholesome odour pervades the air. On a low bench at the far end

lie a guard or two in dirty garments, fitting ornaments for such a

place. By them is the low-barred entrance to the prison, with a hole

in the centre the size of such a face as often fills it, wan and

hopeless. A clanking of chains, a confused din of voices, and an

occasional moan are borne through the opening on the stench-laden

atmosphere. "All hope abandon, ye who enter here!" could never have

been written on portal more appropriate than this, unless he who

entered had friends and money. Here are forgotten good and bad, the

tried and the untried, just and unjust together, sunk in a night of

blank despair, a living grave.

Around an open courtyard, protected by an iron grating at the top, is

a row of dirty columns, and behind them a kind of arcade, on to which

open a number of doorless chambers. Filth is apparent everywhere, and

to the stifling odour of that unwashed horde is added that caused by

insanitary drainage. To some of the pillars are chained poor wretches

little more than skeletons, while a cable of considerable length

secures others. It is locked at one end to a staple outside the door

under which it passes, and is threaded through rings on the iron

collars of half a dozen prisoners who have been brought in as rebels

from a distant province. For thirteen days they have tramped thus,

carrying that chain, holding it up by their hands to save their

shoulders, and two empty rings still threaded on show that when they

started they numbered eight. Since the end rings are riveted to the

chain, it has been impossible to remove them, so when two fell sick by

the way the drivers cut off their heads to effect the release of their

bodies, and to prove, by presenting those ghastly trophies at their

journey's end, that none had escaped.

Many of the prisoners are busy about the floor, where they squat in

groups, plaiting baskets and satchels of palmetto leaves, while many

appear too weak and disheartened even to earn a subsistence in this

way. One poor fellow, who has been a courier, was employed one day

twenty-five years since to carry a despatch to Court, complaining of

the misdeeds of a governor. That official himself intercepted the

letter, and promptly despatched the bearer to Tangier as a Sultan's

prisoner. He then arrested the writer of the letter, who, on paying

a heavy fine, regained his liberty, but the courier remained unasked

for. In course of time the kaïd was called to his account, and his

son, who succeeded him in office, having died too, a stranger ruled in

their stead. The forgotten courier had by this time lost his reason,

fancying himself once more in his goat-hair tent on the southern

plains, and with unconscious irony he still gives every new arrival

the Arab greeting, "Welcome to thee, a thousand welcomes! Make thyself

at home and comfortable. All before thee is thine, and what thou seest

not, be sure we don't possess."

Some few, in better garments, hold themselves aloof from the others,

and converse together with all the nonchalance of gossip in the

streets, for they are well-to-do, arrested on some trivial charge

which a few dollars apiece will soon dispose of, but they are

exceptions. A quieter group occupies one corner, members of a party

of no less than sixty-two brought in together from Fez, on claims

made against them by a European Power. A sympathetic inquiry soon

elicits their histories.[19] The first man to speak is hoary and

bent with years; he was arrested several years ago, on the death of

a brother who had owed some $50 to a European. The second had

borrowed $900 in exchange for a bond for twice that amount; he had

paid off half of this, and having been unable to do more, had been

arrested eighteen months before. The third had similarly received

$80 for a promise to pay $160; he had been in prison five years and

three months. Another had borrowed $100, and knew not the sum which

stood yet against him. Another had been in prison five years for a

debt alleged to have been contracted by an uncle long dead. Another

had borrowed $50 on a bond for $100. Another had languished eighteen

months in gaol on a claim for $120; the amount originally advanced

to him was about $30, but the acknowledgment was for $60, which had

been renewed for $120 on its falling due and being dishonoured.

Another had borrowed $15 on agreeing to refund $30, which was

afterwards increased to $60 and then to $105. He has been imprisoned

three years. The debt of another, originally $16 for a loan of half

that amount, has since been doubled twice, and now stands at $64,

less $17 paid on account, while for forty-two measures of wheat

delivered on account he can get no allowance, though that was three

years ago, and four months afterwards he was sent to prison. Another

had paid off the $50 he owed for an advance of $25, but on some

claim for expenses the creditor had withheld the bond, and is now

suing for the whole amount again. He has been in prison two years

and six months. Another has paid twenty measures of barley on

account of a bond for $100, for which he has received $50, and he

was imprisoned at the same time as the last speaker, his debt being

due to the same man. Another had borrowed $90 on the usual terms,

and has paid the whole in cash or wheat, but cannot get back the

bond. He has previously been imprisoned for a year, but two years

after his release he was re-arrested, fourteen months ago. Another

has been two months in gaol on a claim for $25 for a loan of $12.

The last one has a bitter tale to tell, if any could be worse than

the wearisome similarity of those who have preceded him.

[19: All these statements were taken down from the lips of the

victims at the prison door, and most, if not all of them, were

supported by documentary evidence.]

"Some years ago," he says, "I and my two brothers, Drees and Ali,

borrowed $200 from a Jew of Mequinez, for which we gave him a notarial

bond for $400. We paid him a small sum on account every month, as we

could get it--a few dollars at a time--besides presents of butter,

fowls, and eggs. At the end of the first year he threatened to

imprison us, and made us change the bond for one for $800, and year

by year he raised the debt this way till it reached $3000, even after

allowing for what we had paid off. I saw no hope of ever meeting his

claim, so I ran away, and my brother Drees was imprisoned for six

years. He died last winter, leaving a wife and three children, the

youngest, a daughter, being born a few months after her father was

taken away. He never saw her. By strenuous efforts our family paid off

the $3000, selling all their land, and borrowing small sums. But the

Jew would not give up the bond. He died about two years ago, and we do

not know who is claiming now, but we are told that the sum demanded

is $560. We have nothing now left to sell, and, being in prison, we

cannot work. When my brother Drees died, I and my brother Ali were

seized to take his place. My kaïd was very sorry for me, and became

surety that I would not escape, so that my irons were removed; but my

brother remains still in fetters, as poor Drees did all through the

six years. We have no hope of our friends raising any money, so we

must wait for death to release us."

Here he covers his face with his hands, and several of his companions,

in spite of their own dire troubles, have to draw their shrivelled

arms across their eyes, as silence falls upon the group.

As we turn away heartsick a more horrible sight than any confronts us

before the lieutenant-governor's court. A man is suspended by the arms

and legs, face downwards, by a party of police, who grasp his writhing

limbs. With leather thongs a stalwart policeman on either side is

striking his bare back in turn. Already blood is flowing freely, but

the victim does not shriek. He only winces and groans, or gives an

almost involuntary cry as the cruel blows fall on some previously

harrowed spot. He is already unable to move his limbs, but the blows

fall thick and fast. Will they never cease?

By the side stands a young European counting them one by one, and when

the strikers slow down from exhaustion he orders them to stop, that

others may relieve them. The victim is by this time swooning, so the

European directs that he shall be put on the ground and deluged with

water till he revives. When sufficiently restored the count begins

again. Presently the European stays them a second time; the man is

once again insensible, yet he has only received six hundred lashes of

the thousand which have been ordered.

"Well," he exclaims, "it's no use going on with him to-day. Put him in

the gaol now, and I'll come and see him have the rest to-morrow."

"God bless thee, but surely he has had enough!" exclaims the

lieutenant-governor, in sympathetic tones.

"Enough? He deserves double! The consul has only ordered a thousand,

and I am here to see that he has every one. We'll teach these villains

to rob our houses!"

"There is neither force nor power save in God, the High, the Mighty!

As thou sayest; it is written," and the powerless official turns away

disgusted. "God burn these Nazarenes, their wives and families, and

all their ancestors! They were never fit for aught but hell!" he may

be heard muttering as he enters his house, and well may he feel as he

does.

The policemen carry the victim off to the gaol hard by, depositing him

on the ground, after once more restoring him with cold water.

"God burn their fathers and their grandfathers, and the whole cursed

race of them!" they murmur, for their thoughts still run upon the

consul and the clerk.

Leaving him sorrowfully, they return to the yard, where we still wait

to obtain some information as to the cause of such treatment.

"Why, that dog of a Nazarene, the Greek consul, says that his house

was robbed a month ago, though we don't believe him, for it wasn't

worth it. The sinner says that a thousand dollars were stolen, and he

has sent in a claim for it to the Sultan. The minister's now at court

for the money, the Satan! God rid our country of them all!"

"But how does this poor fellow come in for it?"

"He! He never touched the money! Only he had some quarrel with the

clerk, so they accused him of the theft, as he was the native living

nearest to the house, just over the fence. He's nothing but a poor

donkey-man, and an honest one at that. The consul sent his clerk up

here to say he was the thief, and that he must receive a thousand

lashes. The governor refused till the man should be tried and

convicted, but the Greek wouldn't hear of it, and said that if he

wasn't punished at once he would send a courier to his minister at

Marrákesh, and have a complaint made to the Sultan. The governor knew

that if he escaped it would most likely cost him his post to fight the

consul, so he gave instructions for the order to be carried out, and

went indoors so as not to be present."

"God is supreme!" ejaculates a bystander.

"But these infidels of Nazarenes know nothing of Him. His curse be on

them!" answers the policeman. "They made us ride the poor man round

the town on a bare-backed donkey, with his face to the tail, and all

the way two of us had to thrash him, crying, 'Thus shall be done to

the man who robs a consul!' He was ready to faint before we got him up

here. God knows _we_ don't want to lash him again!"

* * * * *

Next day as we pass the gaol we stop to inquire after the prisoner,

but the poor fellow is still too weak to receive the balance due, and

so it is for several days. Then they tell us that he has been freed

from them by God, who has summoned his spirit, though meanwhile the

kindly attentions of a doctor have been secured, and everything

possible under the circumstances has been done to relieve his

sufferings. After all, he was "only a Moor!"

* * * * *

The Greek consul reported that the condition of the Moorish prisons

was a disgrace to the age, and that he had himself known prisoners who

had succumbed to their evil state after receiving a few strokes from

the lash.

A statement of claim for a thousand dollars, alleged to have been

robbed from his house, was forwarded by courier to his chief, then at

Court, and was promptly added to the demands that it was part of His

Excellency's errand to enforce.

XXVII

THE PROTECTION SYSTEM

"My heart burns, but my lips will not give utterance."

_Moorish Proverb._

I. THE NEED

Crouched at the foreigner's feet lay what appeared but a bundle of

rags, in reality a suppliant Moor, once a man of wealth and position.

Hugging a pot of butter brought as an offering, clutching convulsively

at the leg of the chair, his furrowed face bespoke past suffering and

present earnestness.

"God bless thee, Bashador, and all the Christians, and give me grace

in thy sight!"

"Oh, indeed, so you like the Christians?"

"Yes, Bashador, I must love the Christians; they have justice, we have

none. I wish they had rule over the country."

"Then you are not a good Muslim!"

"Oh yes, I am, I am a háj (pilgrim to Mekka), and I love my own

religion, certainly I do, but none of our officials follow our

religion nowadays: they have no religion. They forget God and worship

money; their delight is in plunder and oppression."

"You appear to have known better days. What is your trouble?"

"Trouble enough," replies the Moor, with a sigh. "I am Hamed Zirári.

I was rich once, and powerful in my tribe, but now I have only this

sheep and two goats. I and my wife live alone with our children in a

nuállah (hut), but after all we are happier now when they leave us

alone, than when we were rich. I have plenty of land left, it is true,

but we dare not for our lives cultivate more than a small patch around

our nuállah, lest we should be pounced upon again."

[Illustration: _Photograph by Dr. Rudduck._

A CENTRAL MOROCCO HOMESTEAD (NUÁLLAS).]

"How did you lose your property?"

"I will tell you, Bashador, and then you will see whether I am

justified in speaking of our Government as I do. It is a sad story,

but I will tell you all.[20] A few years ago I possessed more than six

hundred cows and bullocks, more than twelve hundred sheep, a hundred

good camels, fifty mules, twenty horses, and twenty-four mares. I had

also four wives and many slaves. I had plenty of guns and abundance of

grain in my stores; in fact, I was rich and powerful among my people,

by whom I was held in great honour; but alas! alas! our new kaïd is

worse than the old one; he is insatiable, a pit without a bottom!

There is no possibility of satisfying his greed!

[20: This story is reproduced from notes taken of the man's

narrative by my father.--B. M.]

"I felt that although by continually making him valuable presents

I succeeded in keeping on friendly terms with him, he was always

coveting my wealth. We have in our district two markets a week, and at

last I had to present him with from $50 to $80 every market-day. I

was nevertheless in constant dread of his eyes--they are such greedy

eyes--and I saw that it would be necessary to look out for protection.

I was too loyal a subject of the Sultan then, and too good a Muslim,

to think of Nazarene protection, so I applied for help to Si Mohammed

boo Aálam, commander-in-chief of our lord (whom may God send

victorious), and to enter the Sultan's service.

"We prepared a grand present with which to approach him, and when it

was ready I started with it, accompanied by two of my cousins. We took

four splendid horses, four mares with their foals, four she-camels

with their young, four picked cows, two pairs of our best bullocks,

four fine young male slaves, each with a silver-mounted gun, and four

well-dressed female slaves, each carrying a new bucket in her hand,

many jars containing fresh and salted butter and honey, beside other

things, and a thousand dollars in cash. It was a fine present, was it

not, Bashador?

"Well, on arrival at Si Mohammed's place, we slaughtered two bullocks

at his door, and humbly begged his gracious acceptance of our

offering, which we told him we regretted was not greater, but that as

we were his brethren, we trusted to find favour in his sight. We said

we wished to honour him, and to become his fortunate slaves, whose

chief delight it would be to do his bidding. We reminded him that

although he was so rich and powerful he was still our brother, and

that we desired nothing better than to live in continual friendship

with him.

"He received and feasted us very kindly, and gave us appointments

as mounted guards to the marshal of the Sultan, as which we served

happily for seven months. We were already thinking about sending for

some of our family to come and relieve us, that we might return home

ourselves, when one day Si Mohammed sent for us to say that he was

going away for a time, having received commands from the Sultan to

visit a distant tribe with the effects of Royal displeasure. After

mutual compliments and blessings he set off with his soldiers.

"Five days later a party of soldiers came to our house. To our utter

astonishment and dismay, without a word of explanation, they put

chains on our necks and wrists, and placing us on mules, bore us away.

Remonstrance and resistance were equally vain. We were in Mequinez.

It was already night, and though the gates were shut, and are never

opened again except in obedience to high authority, they were silently

opened for us to pass through. Once outside, our eyes were bandaged,

and we were lashed to our uncomfortable seats. Thus we travelled on as

rapidly as possible, in silence all night long. It was a long night,

that, indeed, Bashador, a weary night, but we felt sure some worse

fate awaited us; what, we could not imagine, for we had committed no

crime. Finally, after three days we halted, and the bandages were

removed from our eyes. We found ourselves in a market-place in

Rahámna, within the jurisdiction of our cursëd kaïd. All around

us were our flocks and herds, camels, and horses, all our movable

property, which we soon learnt had been brought there for public sale.

A great gathering was there to purchase.

"The kaïd was there, and when he saw us he exclaimed, 'There you are,

are you? You can't escape from me now, you children of dogs!' Then he

turned to a brutal policeman, crying, 'Put the bastards on the ground,

and give them a thousand lashes.' Those words ring in my ears still.

I felt as in a dream. I was too utterly in his power to think of

answering, and after a very few strokes the power of doing so was

taken from me, for I lost consciousness. How many blows we received I

know not, but we must have been very nearly killed. When I revived

we were in a filthy matmorah, where we existed for seven months in

misery, being kept alive on a scanty supply of barley loaves and

water. At last I pretended to have lost my reason, as I should have

done in truth had I stayed there much longer. When they told the kaïd

this, he gave permission for me to be let out. I found my wife and

children still living, thank God, though they had had very hard times.

What has become of my cousins I do not know, and do not dare to ask,

but thou couldst, O Bashador, if once I were under thy protection.

"All I know is that, after receiving our present, Si Mohammed sold us

to the kaïd for twelve hundred dollars. He was a fool, Bashador, a

great fool; had he demanded of us we would have given him twelve

hundred dollars to save ourselves what we have had to suffer.

"Wonderest thou still, O Bashador, that I prefer the Nazarenes, and

wish there were more of them in the country? I respect the dust off

their shoes more than a whole nation of miscalled Muslims who could

treat me as I have been treated; but God is just, and 'there is

neither force nor power save in God,' yes, 'all is written.' He gives

to men according to their hearts. We had bad hearts, and he gave us a

Government like them."

II. THE SEARCH

The day was already far spent when at last Abd Allah led his animal

into one of the caravansarais outside the gate of Mazagan, so, after

saying his evening prayers and eating his evening meal, he lay down

to rest on a heap of straw in one of the little rooms of the fandak,

undisturbed either by anxious dreams, or by the multitude of lively

creatures about him.

Ere the sun had risen the voice of the muédhdhin awoke him with the

call to early prayer. Shrill and clear the notes rang out on the calm

morning air in that perfect silence--

"G-o-d is gr-ea--t! G-o-d is gr-ea--t! G-o-d is grea--t! I witness

that there is no God but God, and Mohammed is the messenger of God.

Come to prayer! Come to prayer! Come to prayer! Prayer is better than

sleep! Come to prayer!"

Quickly rising, Abd Allah repaired to the water-tap, and seating

himself on the stone seat before it, rapidly performed the prescribed

religious ablutions, this member three times, then the other as

often, and so on, all in order, right first, left to follow as less

honourable, finishing up with the pious ejaculation, "God greatest!"

Thence to the mosque was but a step, and in a few minutes he stood

barefooted in those dimly-lighted, vaulted aisles, in which the

glimmering oil lamps and the early streaks of daylight struggled for

the mastery. His shoes were on the ground before him at the foot of

the pillar behind which he had placed himself, and his hands were

raised before his face in the attitude of prayer. Then, at the

long-drawn cry of the leader, in company with his fellow-worshippers,

he bowed himself, and again with them rose once more, in a moment to

kneel down and bow his forehead to the earth in humble adoration.

Having performed the usual series of prayers, he was ready for coffee

and bread. This he took at the door of the fandak, seated on the

ground by the coffee-stall, inquiring meanwhile the prospects of

protection in Mazagan.

There was Tájir[21] Pépé, always ready to appoint a new agent for a

consideration, but then he bore almost as bad a name for tyrannizing

over his _protégés_ as did the kaïds themselves. There was Tájir Yûsef

the Jew, but then he asked such tremendous prices, because he was a

vice-consul. There was Tájir Juan, but then he was not on good enough

terms with his consul to protect efficiently those whom he appointed,

so he could not be thought of either. But there was Tájir Vecchio, a

new man from Gibraltar, fast friends with his minister, and who must

therefore be strong, yet a man who did not name too high a figure. To

him, therefore, Abd Allah determined to apply, and when his store was

opened presented himself.

[21: "Merchant," used much as "Mr." is with us.]

Under his cloak he carried three pots of butter in one hand, and as

many of honey in the other, while a ragged urchin tramped behind with

half a dozen fowls tied in a bunch by the legs, and a basket of eggs.

The first thing was to get a word with the head-man at the store; so,

slipping a few of the eggs into his hands, Abd Allah requested an

interview with the Tájir, with whom he had come to make friends. This

being promised, he squatted on his heels by the door, where he was

left to wait an hour or two, remarking to himself at intervals that

God was great, till summoned by one of the servants to enter.

The merchant was seated behind his desk, and Abd Allah, having

deposited his burden on the floor, was making round the table to throw

himself at his feet, when he was stopped and allowed but to kiss his

hand.

"Well, what dost thou want?"

"I have come to make friends, O Merchant."

"Who art thou?"

"I am Abd Allah bin Boo Shaïb es-Sálih, O Merchant, of Aïn Haloo in

Rahámna. I have a family there, and cattle, and very much land. I

wish to place all in thy hands, and to become thy friend," again

endeavouring to throw himself at the feet of the European.

"All right, all right, that will do. I will see about it; come to me

again to-morrow."

"May God bless thee, O Merchant, and fill thee with prosperity, and

may He prolong thy days in peace!"

As Tájir Vecchio went on with his writing, Abd Allah made off with

a hopeful heart to spend the next twenty-four anxious hours in the

fandak, while his offerings were carried away to the private house by

a servant.

Next morning saw him there again, when much the same scene was

repeated. This time, however, they got to business.

"How can I befriend you?" asked the European, after yesterday's

conversation had been practically repeated.

"Thou canst very greatly befriend me by making me thy agent in Aïn

Haloo. I will work for thee, and bring thee of the produce of my land

as others do, if I may only enjoy thy protection. May God have mercy

on thee, O Merchant. I take refuge with thee."

"I can't be always appointing agents and protecting people for

nothing. What can you give me?"

"Whatever is just, O Merchant, but the Lord knows that I am not rich,

though He has bestowed sufficient on me to live, praise be to Him."

"Well, I should want two hundred dollars down, and something when the

certificate is renewed next year, besides which you would of course

report yourself each quarter, and not come empty-handed. Animals and

corn I can do best with, but I don't want any of your poultry."

"God bless thee, Merchant, and make thee prosperous, but two hundred

dollars is a heavy sum for me, and this last harvest has not been so

plentiful as the one before, as thou knowest. Grant me this protection

for one hundred and fifty dollars, and I can manage it, but do not

make it an impossibility."

"I can't go any lower: there are scores of Moors who would give me

that price. Do as you like. Good morning."

"Thou knowest, O Merchant, I could not give more than I have offered,"

replied Abd Allah as he rose and left the place.

But as no one else could be found in the town to protect him on better

terms, he had at last to return, and in exchange for the sum demanded

received a paper inscribed on one side in Arabic, and on the other in

English, as follows:--

"VICE-CONSULATE FOR GREAT BRITAIN,

"MAZAGAN, _Oct. 5, 1838_.

"_This is to certify that Abd Allah bin Boo Shaïb es-Sálih,

resident at Aïn Haloo in the province of Rahámna, has been duly

appointed agent of Edward Vecchio, a British subject, residing in

Mazagan: all authorities will respect him according to existing

treaties, not molesting him without proper notice to this

Vice-Consulate._[22]

"_Gratis_ Seal. [Signed] "JOHN SMITH.

"_H.B.M.'s Vice-Consul, Mazagan._"

[22: A genuine "patent of protection," as prescribed by treaty,

supposed to be granted only to wholesale traders, whereas

every beggar can obtain "certificates of partnership." The

native in question has then only to appear before the notaries

and state that he has in his possession so much grain, or so

many oxen or cattle, belonging to a certain European, who takes

them as his remuneration for presenting the notarial document at

his Legation, and obtaining the desired certificate. Moreover,

he receives half the produce of the property thus made over to

him. This is popularly known as "farming in Morocco."]

XXVIII

JUSTICE FOR THE JEW

"Sleep on anger, and thou wilt not rise repentant."

_Moorish Proverb._

The kaïd sat in his seat of office, or one might rather say reclined,

for Moorish officials have a habit of lying in two ways at once when

they are supposed to be doing justice. Strictly speaking, his position

was a sort of halfway one, his back being raised by a pile of

cushions, with his right leg drawn up before him, as he leant on his

left elbow. His judgement seat was a veritable wool-sack, or rather

mattress, placed across the left end of a long narrow room, some eight

feet by twenty, with a big door in the centre of one side. The only

other apertures in the whitewashed but dirty walls were a number of

ventilating loop-holes, splayed on the inside, ten feet out of the

twelve above the floor. This was of worn octagonal tiles, in parts

covered with a yellow rush mat in an advanced state of consumption.

Notwithstanding the fact that the ceiling was of some dark colour,

hard to be defined at its present age, the audience-chamber was

amply lighted from the lofty horse-shoe archway of the entrance, for

sunshine is reflection in Morocco to a degree unknown in northern

climes.

On the wall above the head of the kaïd hung a couple of huge and

antiquated horse-pistols, while on a small round table at his feet,

some six inches high, lay a collection of cartridges and gunsmith's

tools. Behind him, on a rack, were half a dozen long flint-lock

muskets, and on the wall by his feet a number of Moorish daggers and

swords. In his hand the governor fondled a European revolver, poking

out and replacing the charges occasionally, just to show that it was

loaded.

Life in Morocco and Glimpses Beyond · 第 4 / 7 章