A CITY NOTE-BOOK

Well, now let us see in what respect we are richer to-day than we

were yesterday.

Coming down Fifth Avenue on top of a bus, we saw a man absorbed in a

book. Ha, we thought, here is our chance to see how bus reading

compares to subway reading! After some manoeuvering, we managed to

get the seat behind the victim. The volume was "Every Man a King,"

by Orison Swett Marden, and the uncrowned monarch reading it was

busy with the thirteenth chapter, to wit: "Thoughts Radiate as

Influence." We did a little radiating of our own, and it seemed to

reach him, for presently he grew uneasy, put the volume carefully

away in a brief-case, and (as far as we could see) struck out toward

his kingdom, which apparently lay on the north shore of Forty-second

Street.

We felt then that we would recuperate by glancing at a little

literature. So we made our way toward the newly enlarged shrine of

James F. Drake on Fortieth Street. Here we encountered our friends

the two Messrs. Drake, junior, and complimented them on their thews

and sinews, these two gentlemen having recently, unaided, succeeded

in moving a half-ton safe, filled with the treasures of Elizabethan

literature, into the new sanctum. Here, where formerly sped the

nimble fingers of M. Tappe's young ladies, busy with the compilation

of engaging bonnets for the fair, now stand upon wine-dark shelves

the rich gold and amber of fine bindings. We were moved by this

sight. We said in our heart, we will erect a small madrigal upon

this theme, entitled: "Song Upon Certain Songbirds of the

Elizabethan Age Now Garnishing the Chamber Erstwhile Bright With the

Stuffed Plumage of the Milliner." To the Messrs. Drake we mentioned

the interesting letter of Mr. J. Acton Lomax in yesterday's

_Tribune_, which called attention to the fact that the poem at the

end of "Through the Looking Glass" is an acrostic giving the name of

the original Alice--viz., Alice Pleasance Liddell. In return for

which we were shown a copy of the first edition of "Alice in

Wonderland." Here, too, we dallied for some time over a first

edition of Dr. Johnson's Dictionary, and were pleased to learn that

the great doctor was no more infallible in proofreading than the

rest of us, one of our hosts pointing out to us a curious error by

which some words beginning in COV had slipped in ahead of words

beginning in COU.

* * * * *

At noon to-day we climbed on a Riverside Drive bus at Seventy-ninth

Street and rode in the mellow gold of autumn up to Broadway and

168th. Serene, gilded weather; sunshine as soft and tawny as

candlelight, genial at midday as the glow of an open fire in spite

of the sharpness of the early morning. Battleships lay in the river

with rippling flags. Men in flannels were playing tennis on the

courts below Grant's Tomb; everywhere was a convincing appearance of

comfort and prosperity. The beauty of the children, the good

clothing of everybody, canes swinging on the pavements, cheerful

faces untroubled by thought, the warm benevolence of sunlight,

bronzing trees along Riverside Park, a man reading a book on the

summit of that rounded knoll of rock near Eighty-fourth Street which

children call "Mount Tom"--everything was so bright in life and

vigour that the sentence seems to need no verb. Joan of Arc, poised

on horseback against her screen of dark cedars, held her sword

clearly against the pale sky. Amazingly sure and strong and

established seem the rich façades of Riverside Drive apartment

houses, and the landlords were rolling in limousines up to Claremont

to have lunch. One small apartment house, near Eighty-third or

thereabouts, has been renamed the Château-Thierry.

After crossing the long bridge above Claremont and the deep ravine

where ships and ferryboats and coal stations abound, the bus crosses

on 135th Street to Broadway. At 153d, the beautiful cemetery of

Trinity Parish, leafy paths lying peaceful in the strong glow. At

166th Street is an open area now called Mitchel Square, with an

outcrop of rock polished by the rearward breeks of many sliding

urchins. Some children were playing on that small summit with a toy

parachute made of light paper and a pebble attached by threads. On

168th Street alongside the big armoury of the Twenty-second

Engineers boys were playing baseball, with a rubber ball, pitching

it so that the batter received it on the bounce and struck it with

his fist. According to the score chalked on the pavement the "Bronx

Browns" and the "Haven Athletics" were just finishing a rousing

contest, in which the former were victors, 1-0. Haven Avenue, near

by, is a happy little street perched high above the river. A small

terraced garden with fading flowers looks across the Hudson to the

woody Palisades. Modest apartment houses are built high on enormous

buttresses, over the steep scarp of the hillside. Through cellar

windows coal was visible, piled high in the bins; children were

trooping home for dinner; a fine taint of frying onions hung in the

shining air. Everywhere in that open, half-suburban, comfortable

region was a feeling of sane, established life. An old man with a

white beard was greeted by two urchins, who ran up and kissed him

heartily as he beamed upon them. Grandpa, one supposes! Plenty of

signs indicating small apartments to rent, four and five rooms. And

down that upper slant of Broadway, as the bus bumbles past rows of

neat prosperous-seeming shops, one feels the great tug and pulling

current of life that flows down the channel, the strange energy of

the huge city lying below. The tide was momentarily stilled, but

soon to resume action. There was a magic touch apparent, like the

stillness of a palace in a fairy tale, bewitched into waiting

silence.

* * * * *

Sometimes on our way to the office in the morning we stop in front

of a jeweller's window near Maiden Lane and watch a neat little

elderly gentleman daintily setting out his employer's gauds and

trinkets for the day. We like to see him brood cheerfully over the

disposition of his small amber-coloured velvet mats, and the

arrangement of the rings, vanity cases, necklaces, and precious

stones. They twinkle in the morning light, and he leans downward in

the window, innocently displaying the widening parting on his pink

scalp. He purses his lips in a silent whistle as he cons his shining

trifles and varies his plan of display every day.

Now a modern realist (we have a painful suspicion) if he were

describing this pleasant man would deal rather roughly with him. You

know exactly how it would be done. He would be a weary, saddened,

shabby figure: his conscientious attention to the jewels in his care

would be construed as the painful and creaking routine of a victim

of commercial greed; a bitter irony would be distilled from the

contrast of his own modest station in life and the huge value of the

lucid crystals and carbons under his hands. His hands--ah, the

realist would angrily see some brutal pathos or unconscious

naughtiness in the crook of the old mottled fingers. How that

widening parting in the gray head would be gloated upon. It would be

very easy to do, and it would be (if we are any judge) wholly false.

For we have watched the little old gentleman many times, and we

have quite an affection for him. We see him as one perfectly happy

in the tidy and careful round of his tasks; and when his tenderly

brushed gray poll leans above his treasures, and he gently devises

new patterns by which the emeralds or the gold cigarette cases will

catch the slant of 9 o'clock sunlight, we seem to see one who is

enjoying his own placid conception of beauty, and who is not a

figure of pity or reproach, but one of decent honour and excellent

fidelity.

* * * * *

One of our colleagues, a lusty genial in respect of tobacco, has

told us of a magnificent way to remove an evil and noisome taste

from an old pipe that hath been smoked overlong. He says, clean the

bowl carefully (not removing the cake) and wash tenderly in fair,

warm water. Then, he says, take a teaspoonful of the finest vatted

Scotch whiskey (or, if the pipe be of exceeding size, a

tablespoonful of the same) and pour it delicately into the bowl.

Apply a lighted match, and let the liquor burn itself out. It will

do so, he avouches, with a gentle blue flame of great beauty and

serenity. The action of this burning elixir, he maintains, operates

to sizzle and purge away all impurity from the antique incrustation

in the bowl. After letting the pipe cool, and then filling it with a

favourite blend of mingled Virginia, Perique, and Latakia, our

friend asserts that he is blessed with a cool, saporous, and

enchanting fumigation which is so fragrant that even his wife has

remarked upon it in terms complimentary. Our friend says (but we

fear he draws the longbow nigh unto fracture) that the success of

this method may be tested so: if one lives, as he does, in the

upward stories of a tall apartment house, one should take the pipe

so cleansed to the window-sill, and, smoking it heartily, lean

outward over the sill. On a clear, still, blue evening, the air

being not too gusty, the vapours will disperse and eddy over the

street; and he maintains with great zeal that passersby ten tiers

below will very soon look upward from the pavement, sniffingly, to

discern the source of such admirable fumes. He has even known them,

he announces, to hail him from the street, in tones of eager

inquiry, to learn what kind of tobacco he is smoking.

All this we have duly meditated and find ourselves considerably

stirred. Now there is only one thing that stands between ourself and

such an experiment.

* * * * *

There are some who hold by the theory that on visiting a restaurant

it is well to pick out a table that is already cleared rather than

one still bearing the debris of a previous patron's meal. We offer

convincing proof to the contrary.

Rambling, vacant of mind and guileless of intent, in a certain quiet

portion of the city--and it is no use for you, O client, to ask

where, for our secrecy is firm as granite--we came upon an eating

house and turned inward. There were tables spread with snowy cloths,

immaculate; there were also tables littered with dishes. We chose

one of the latter, for a waiter was removing the plates, and we

thought that by sitting there we would get prompter service. We sat

down and our eye fell upon a large china cup that had been used by

the preceding luncher. In the bottom of that cup was a little pool

of dark dregs, a rich purple colour, most agreeable to gaze upon.

Happy possibilities were opened to our mind. Like the fabled Captain

X, we had a Big Idea. We made no outcry, nor did we show our

emotion, but when the waiter asked for our order we said, calmly:

"Sausages and some of the red wine." He was equally calm and uttered

no comment.

Soon he came back (having conferred, as we could see out of the wing

of our eye) with his boss. "What was it you ordered?" he said.

"Sausages," we replied, urbanely, "and some of the red wine."

"I don't remember having served you before," he said. "I can't give

you anything like that."

We saw that we must win his confidence and we thought rapidly. "It's

perfectly all right," we said. "Mr. Bennett" (we said, seizing the

first name that came into our head), "who comes here every day, told

me about it. You know Mr. Bennett; he works over on Forty-second

Street and comes here right along."

Again he departed, but returned anon with smiling visage. "If you're

a friend of Mr. Bennett's," he said, "it's all right. You know, we

have to be careful."

"Quite right," we said; "be wary." And we laid hand firmly on the

fine hemorrhage of the grape.

A little later in the adventure, when we were asked what dessert we

would have, we found stewed rhubarb on the menu, and very fine

stewed rhubarb it was; wherefore we say that our time was not

ill-spent and we shall keep the secret to ourself.

But we can't help feeling grateful to Mr. Bennett, whoever he is.

* * * * *

Occasionally (but not often) in the exciting plexus of our affairs

(conducted, as we try to persuade ourself, with so judicious a

jointure of caution and hilarity) we find it necessary to remain in

town for dinner. Then, and particularly in spring evenings, we are

moved and exhilarated by that spectacle that never loses its

enchantment, the golden beauty and glamour of downtown New York

after the homeward ebb has left the streets quiet and lonely. By six

o'clock in a May sunset the office is a cloister of delicious peace

and solitude. Let us suppose (oh, a case merely hypothetic) that you

have got to attend a dinner somewhere in the Forties, say at

half-past seven; and it is requisite that evening clothes should be

worn. You have brought them to the office, modestly hidden, in a

bag; and in that almost unbelievable privacy, toward half-past six,

you have an enjoyable half hour of luxurious amusement and

contemplation. The office, one repeats, is completely stripped of

tenants--save perhaps an occasional grumbling sortie by the veteran

janitor. So all its resources are open for you to use as boudoir.

Now, in an office situated like this there is, at sunset time, a

variety of scenic richness to be contemplated. From the President's

office (putting on one's hard-boiled shirt) one can look down upon

St. Paul's churchyard, lying a pool of pale blue shadow in the

rising dusk. From the City Room (inserting studs) one sees the river

sheeted with light. From the office of the Literary Editor (lacing

up one's shoes) one may study the wild pinnacle of Woolworth,

faintly superfused with a brightness of gold and pink. From the

office of one of our dramatic critics the view is negligible (being

but a hardy brick wall), but the critic, debonair creature, has a

small mirror of his own, so there one manages the ticklish business

of the cravat. And from our own kennel, where are transacted the

last touches (transfer of pipe, tobacco, matches, Long Island

railroad timetable, commutation ticket, etc., to the other pockets)

there is a heavenly purview of those tall cliffs of lower Broadway,

nobly terraced into the soft, translucent sky. In that exquisite

clarity and sharpness of New York's evening light are a loveliness

and a gallantry hardly to be endured. At seven o'clock of a May

evening it is poetry unspeakable. O magnificent city (one says),

there will come a day when others will worship and celebrate your

mystery; and when not one of them will know or care how much I loved

you. But these words, obscure and perishable, I leave you as a

testimony that I also understood.

She cannot be merely the cruel Babel they like to describe her: the

sunset light would not gild her so tenderly.

* * * * *

It was a great relief to us yesterday evening to see a man reading a

book in the subway. We have undergone so many embarrassments trying

to make out the titles of the books the ladies read, without running

afoul of the Traveller's Aid Society, that we heaved a sigh of

relief and proceeded to stalk our quarry with a light heart. Let us

explain that on a crowded train it is not such an easy task. You see

your victim at the other end of the car. First you have to buffet

your way until you get next to him. Then, just as you think you are

in a position to do a little careful snooping, he innocently shifts

the book to the other hand. This means you have got to navigate,

somehow, toward the hang-handle on the other side of him. Very well.

By the time the train gets to Bowling Green we have seen that it is

a fattish book, bound in green cloth, and the author's name begins

with FRAN. That doesn't help much. As the train roars under the

river you manage, by leanings and twistings, to see the publisher's

name--in this case, Longmans. At Borough Hall a number of passengers

get out, and the hunted reader sits down. Ten to one he will hold

the book in such a way that you cannot see the title. At Nevins

Street you get a seat beside him. At Atlantic Avenue, as he is

getting off, you propose your head over his shoulder in the jam on

the stairs and see what you are after. "Lychgate Hall," by M.E.

Francis. And in this case, success left us none the wiser.

Atlantic Avenue, by the way, always seems to us an ideal place for

the beginning of a detective story. (Speaking of that, a very jolly

article in this month's _Bookman_, called "How Old Is Sherlock

Holmes?" has revived our old ambition to own a complete set of all

the Sherlock Holmes tales, and we are going to set about scouring

the town for them). Every time we pass through the Atlantic Avenue

maelstrom, which is twelve times a week, we see, as plain as print,

the beginning of two magazine tales.

One begins as the passengers are streaming through the gate toward

the 5:27 train. There is a very beautiful damsel who always sits on

the left-hand side of the next to last car, by an open window. On

her plump and comely white hand, which holds the latest issue of a

motion picture magazine, is a sparkling diamond ring. Suddenly all

the lights in the train go out. Through the open window comes a

brutal grasp which wrenches the bauble from her finger. There are

screams, etc., etc. When the lights go on again, of course there is

no sign of the criminal. Five minutes later, Mr. Geoffrey Dartmouth,

enjoying a chocolate ice cream soda in the little soft-drink alcove

at the corner of the station, is astonished to find a gold ring, the

stone missing, at the bottom of his paper soda container.

The second story begins on the Atlantic Avenue platform of the

Lexington Avenue subway. It is 9 A.M., and a crowded train is

pulling out. Just before the train leaves a young man steps off one

of the cars, leaving behind him (though not at once noticed) a

rattan suitcase. This young man disappears in the usual fashion,

viz., by mingling with the crowd. When the train gets to the

end of the run the unclaimed suitcase is opened, and found to

contain--_continued on page_ 186.

* * * * *

Every now and then we take a stroll up Irving Place. It is changing

slowly, but it still has much of the flavour that Arthur Maurice had

in mind when he christened It "the heart of O. Henry land." Number

55, the solid, bleached brownstone house where O. Henry once lived,

is still there: it seems to be some sort of ecclesiastical

rendezvous, if one may judge by the letters C.H.A. on the screen and

the pointed carving of the doorway. Number 53, next door, always

interests us greatly: the windows give a glimpse of the most

extraordinary number of cages of canaries.

The old German theatre seems to have changed its language: the

boards speak now in Yiddish. The chiropractor and psycho-analyst has

invaded the Place, as may be seen by a sign on the eastern side. O.

Henry would surely have told a yarn about him if he had been there

fifteen years ago. There are still quite a number of the old brown

houses, with their iron railings and little patches of grass. The

chocolate factory still diffuses its pleasant candied whiff. At

noontime the street is full of the high-spirited pupils of the

Washington Irving High School. As for the Irving house itself, it is

getting a new coat of paint. The big corset works, we dare say, has

come since O. Henry's time. We had quite an adventure there once. We

can't remember how it came about, but for some reason or other we

went to that building to see the chief engineer. All we can remember

about it was that he had been at sea at one time, and we went to see

him on some maritime errand. We found that he and his family lived

in a comfortable apartment on the roof of the factory, and we

remember making our way, with a good many blushes, through several

hundred or thousand young ladies who were industriously working away

at their employer's business and who seemed to us to be giggling

more than necessary. After a good deal of hunting we found our way

to a secret stair and reached our seafaring engineer of the corset

factory in his eyrie, where (we remember) there were oil paintings

of ships on the walls and his children played about on the roof as

though on the deck of a vessel.

Irving Place is also very rich in interesting little

shops--laundries, tailors, carpenters, stationers, and a pleasant

bookshop. It is a haunt of hand-organ men. The cool tavern at the

corner of Eighteenth, where Con Delaney tended the bar in the days

when O. Henry visited it, is there still. All along the little byway

is a calm, genteel, domestic mood, in spite of the encroachments of

factories and apartment houses. There are window boxes with flowers,

and a sort of dim suffusion of conscious literary feeling. One has a

suspicion that in all those upper rooms are people writing short

stories. "Want to see a freak?" asks the young man in the bookshop

as we are looking over his counters. We do, of course, and follow

his animated gesture. Across the street comes a plump young woman,

in a very short skirt of a violent blue, with a thick mane of bobbed

hair, carrying her hat in her hand. She looks rather comfortable and

seemly to us, but something about her infuriates the bookseller. He

is quite Freudian in his indignation that any young woman should

habit herself so. We wonder what the psycho-analyst a few blocks

below would say about it. And walking a few paces further, one comes

upon the green twitter, the tended walks and pink geranium beds of

Gramercy Park.

* * * * *

There is no time when we need spiritual support so much as when we

are having our hair cut, for indeed it is the only time when we are

ever thoroughly and entirely Bored. But having found a good-natured

barber who said he would not mind our reading a book while he was

shearing, we went through with it. The ideal book to read at such a

time (we offer you this advice, brave friends) is the "Tao" of

Lao-Tse, that ancient and admirable Chinese sage. (Dwight Goddard's

translation is very agreeable.) "The Tao," as of course you know, is

generally translated The Way, i.e., the Way of Life of the

Reasonable Man.

Lao-Tse, we assert, is the ideal author to read while the barber is

at his business. He answers every inquiry that will be made, and all

you have to do is hold the book up and point to your favourite

marked passages.

When the barber says, genially, "Well, have you done your Christmas

shopping yet?" we raise the book and point to this maxim:

_Taciturnity is natural to man._

When he says, "How about a nice little shampoo this morning?" we are

prompt to indicate:

_The wise man attends to the inner significance of things and

does not concern himself with outward appearances._

When, as we sit in the chair, we see (in the mirror before us) the

lovely reflection of the beautiful manicure lady, and she arches her

eyebrows at us to convey the intimation that we ought to have our

hands attended to, old Lao-Tse is ready with the answer. We reassure

ourself with his remark:

_Though he be surrounded with sights that are magnificent, the

wise man will remain calm and unconcerned._

When the shine boy offers to burnish our shoes, we call his

attention to:

_He who closes his mouth and shuts his sense gates will be free

from trouble to the end of life._

When the barber suggests that if we were now to have a liberal

douche of bay rum sprayed over our poll it would be a glittering

consummation of his task, we show him the words:

_If one tries to improve a thing, he mars it._

And when (finally) the irritated tonsor suggests that if we don't

wait so long next time before getting our hair cut we will not be

humiliated by our condition, we exhibit Lao-Tse's aphorism:

_The wise man is inaccessible to favour or hate; he cannot be

reached by profit or injury; he cannot be honoured or

humiliated._

"It's very easy," says the barber as we pay our check; "just drop in

here once a month and we'll fix you up." And we point to:

_The wise man lives in the world, but he lives cautiously,

dealing with the world cautiously. Many things that appear easy

are full of difficulties._

* * * * *

To a lot of people who are in a mortal scurry and excitement what is

so maddening as the calm and unruffled serenity of a dignified

philosopher who gazes unperturbed upon their pangs? So did we

meditate when facing the deliberate and mild tranquillity of the

priestly person presiding over the bulletin board announcing the

arrival of trains at the Pennsylvania Station. It was in that

desperate and curious limbo known as the "exit concourse," where

baffled creatures wait to meet others arriving on trains and

maledict the architect who so planned matters that the passengers

arrive on two sides at once, so that one stands grievously in the

middle slewing his eyes to one side and another in a kind of

vertigo, attempting to con both exits. We cannot go into this matter

in full (when, indeed, will we find enough white paper and enough

energy to discuss _anything_ in full, in the way, perhaps, Henry

James would have blanketed it?), but we will explain that we were

waiting to meet someone, someone we had never seen, someone of the

opposite sex and colour, in short, that rare and desirable creature

a cook, imported from another city, and she had missed her train,

and all we knew was her first name and that she would wear a "brown

turban." After prowling distraitly round the station (and a large

station it is) and asking every likely person if her name was

Amanda, and being frowned upon and suspected as a black slaver, and

thinking we felt on our neck the heated breath and handcuffs of the

Travellers' Aid Society, we decided that Amanda must have missed her

train and concluded to wait for the next. Then it was, to return to

our thesis, that we had occasion to observe and feel in our own

person the wretched pangs of one in despair facing the gentle--shall

we say hesychastic?--peace and benevolent quietness of the man at

the bulletin board. Bombarded with questions by the impatient and

anxious crowd, with what pacific good nature he answered our doubts

and querulities. And yet how irritating was his calmness, his

deliberation, the very placidity of his mien as he surveyed his

clacking telautograph and leisurely took out his schoolroom eraser,

rubbed off an inscription, then polished the board with a cloth,

then looked for a piece of chalk and wrote in a fine curly hand some

notation about a train from Cincinnati in which we were not at all

interested. Ah, here we are at last! Train from Philadelphia!

Arriving on track Number--; no, wrong again! He only change _5

minutes late_ to _10 minutes late_. The crowd mutters and fumes. The

telautograph begins to stutter and we gaze at it feverishly. It

stops again and our dominie looks at it calmly. He taps it gently

with his finger. We wonder, is it out of order? Perhaps that train

is already coming in and he doesn't know it, and Amanda may be

wandering lost somewhere in the vast vistas of the station looking

for us. Shall we dash up to the waiting room and have another look?

But Amanda does not know the station, and there are so many places

where benches are put, and she might think one of those was the

waiting room that had been mentioned. And then there is this

Daylight Saving time mix-up. In a sudden panic we cannot figure out

whether Philadelphia time is an hour ahead of New York time or an

hour behind. We told Amanda to take the one o'clock from

Philadelphia. Well, should she arrive here at two o'clock or at

four? It being now 5:10 by our time, what are we to do? The

telautograph clicks. The priestly person slowly and gravely writes

down that the Philadelphia train is arriving on Track 6. There is a

mad rush: everyone dashes to the gate. And here, coming up the

stairs, is a coloured lady whose anxiously speculating eye must be

the one we seek. In the mutuality of our worry we recognize each

other at once. We seize her in triumph; in fact, we could have

embraced her. All our anguish is past. Amanda is ours!

[Illustration]

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