CHAPTER XXIV.

_THE JOINER’S WORK._

“All the particulars of the woodwork,” continued Eugène, “ought to

be furnished before a house is begun to be built, for the first

consideration in work of this kind is selecting the materials, and

only employing wood that is thoroughly dry, and has been sawn out

some years. We have had but a short notice, and have not been able to

pay attention to this important part of our undertaking. Fortunately

I am acquainted with a joiner at Chateauroux, who has a stock of

well-seasoned wood of good quality, which he is not very willing to

part with, as he keeps it for special work; but he will let us have

some, as your father has rendered him some services.

“But while only sound and dry wood must be employed in our joiner’s

work, it is not less necessary to combine the parts according to the

nature of the materials, and not infringe the conditions imposed by

them. Wood is sawn according to certain dimensions dictated by custom

and the size of the trees. Thus, for example, a plank is only 8 or

10 inches broad, because trees fit for joiner’s work are scarcely

of larger diameter, when the sap-wood is removed; in making panels,

therefore, it is advisable not to have them more than 8 or 10 inches

wide, that they may not exceed the width of a plank. If two or more

boards are joined to make a panel, they will separate in drying, and

leave a space between them; whereas, if we give each panel only the

width of a plank, even if it should shrink, the shrinking occurs in the

tongue, and there is no disjointing. These tongues must, however, be

wide enough to bear the shrinking without leaving the rebate. You will

understand that better by and by.

“In the last century many doors were made _wide-framed_, that is, doors

the panels of which, framed in moulding, are from 16 to 20 inches wide;

this was the fashion. But at that time they employed none but very dry

wood, that had been felled and cut up for several years; and these

panels, made of two boards, notched or simply jointed, did not shrink.

You see doors thus made in your father’s drawing-room, and there is

only one in which the panel has opened. In the present day such wood

cannot be got for love or money; we must therefore be content to give

up those wide panels. Or, if we insist upon having them, they must be

made of white wood—of _sycamore_, because this wood dries quickly, does

not split nor warp, that is, it does not curve across the grain. But

sycamore is a soft wood, liable to be attacked by worms, especially in

the country. Let us therefore keep to oak, and construct our doors so

that the panels may be only about 8 inches wide. We have folding and

single doors. The folding doors are 4 feet wide; the doors of a single

leaf 32 to 40 inches. Their height varies from 7 ft. to 7 ft. 4 in.;

for it is quite useless to make them higher, as we do not walk into our

rooms with crosses and banners, and the human stature rarely exceeds

six feet. There are many inconveniences in having doors too high; they

are liable to twist, are not easily shut, and, if it is cold, every

time they are opened they let a considerable volume of damp, freezing

air penetrate into the rooms, chilling them proportionately.

[Illustration: FIG. 56.]

“Let us begin, then, by drawing a folding-door. We shall make the

framing of this door of wood 1¾ inch thick. We call the outer upright

pieces (Fig. 56) the hanging-stiles; the pieces, A, the meeting-stiles;

the horizontal pieces between them, the rails. The stiles and the

top and bottom rails shall be each 4¼ inches wide, the intermediate

uprights, or munton, 2 inches. Now each leaf—deducting ½ an inch for

the rebate, or overlap, in the middle—will be 2 feet wide, since the

doorway must have an opening of 4 feet: deducting 4¼ in. + 2 in. + 3¾

in. for the two stiles and the munton—total, 10 inches—there remain 14

inches for the two panels, _i.e._, 7 inches for each panel. The middle

rail must be placed so that its centre shall be 3 ft. 4 in. from the

ground; for it is on this rail the lock is fixed, and this rail should

not be less than 6 inches wide, so that deducting for the mouldings,

say 2 in., there still remains 4 in. for the room of the lock, whose

box is usually from 3 to 4 in. wide. This kind of door is called

square-framed: all the joints being square, without mitres, and the

panels being narrow, these doors do not give, and are perfectly ridged.

[Illustration: FIG. 57.]

“Here is a detail of this framing (Fig. 57): Let A be the wall-jamb

of the doorway; a door-frame, B, is fixed by means of iron stays to

this jamb. To it are fastened with screws the hinges, C, on which the

door-leaves swing. D is the hanging-stile; E E, the meeting-stiles;

F, the intermediate munton; G, the panels, with their tongues in the

grooves. The architraves, H, form a rebate around the hanging-stiles

and the top rail. Moulded strips, I, are affixed along the rebate of

the meeting-stiles, in order to strengthen the rebate, and to present

to the hand a rounded edge that does not hurt the hand or fray the

dress. At K is denoted the top rail, with its tenon, L, fitting into

a mortice, M, which should be cut right through the stile. At the

juncture of the intermediate munton, N, the moulding, O, is cut square

off to make way for the head of the munton, whose tenon, P, goes into a

mortice, R. At S you see the groove into which fits the tongues, T, of

the panels; which are increased in thickness at a certain distance from

the tongue, as you see at V, to about ⅞ths of an inch. You will observe

that the chamfers, X, of the stiles stop beneath the joints, in order

to leave these all the strength of the wood. Doors of these dimensions

will require three hinges to each leaf.

“This explanation gives you the key to all good ordinary house joinery.

The rule is a simple one: never to weaken the wood at the joints,

always to make these square, and not to exceed the sizes of ordinary

scantling.

[Illustration: FIG. 58.]

“Our single-leaved doors will be made according to this system. We have

lastly to consider the window-casements. In these we shall follow the

same principle, that is, we shall avoid the defective mitre joints, and

have none but square joints. Here (Fig. 58) is one of these casements,

which consists of a fixed frame, A, fastened into the rebate of the

stone-work, B, and of two folding casements. The wood of the casements

shall be 1½ in. thick, and the meeting-stiles shall lock one into the

other. To lessen the difficulty of glazing, or to avoid the necessity

of using plate-glass, we will divide the length by a small bar, C. You

will require the details of these window-casements. I give them to you

drawn in Fig. 59.

[Illustration: FIG. 59.]

“At A I have marked the rebate of the window-jamb; at B the fixed

frame; at C one of the stiles which works into the frame, with the

tongue to stop the passage of the air; at D and E, the right and left

hand meeting-stiles, with their method of locking. On the projection,

F, is affixed the _crémone_, or fastener. The detail, G, gives you the

section of the sill-rail of the frame, with its water-stop, intended

to hinder the rain or snow from penetrating to the inside. But as it

happens that in spite of this precaution the driving rain sometimes

finds its way into the rebate, a small channel, _a_, must be sunk in

this rebate, with two escapes, that the water may not flow through, and

down the inner surface of the sill, I. In order to cover the junction

of the wood sill-rail and the stone sill, we shall affix the moulding,

K. At L I denote for you the framing of the bottom rail of the casement

and the stile; and at M that of the glazing-bar and the same stile. At

O you will observe the outside rebates to receive the glass, and the

chamfers, P, with stops on the inside to leave at the joints all the

strength of the wood. Besides the three hinges necessary for each leaf,

we must take into account the angle-plates at top and bottom to secure

the casement from straining the joints and giving down in the middle,

for the glass cannot serve like door panels, which stiffen the framing.

On the contrary, the glass, by its weight, tends to put these casements

out of shape.

“You are going to set to work at these details, Paul, and I will

correct your drawings. Furnished with these designs, you will then

go to Chateauroux and show them to the person who undertakes the

work, and he will fix his prices. You will supplement the drawings

by explanations, keeping clearly in mind what I have told you, and

bring back his estimate. I will also give you an introduction to an

engineering friend of mine at Chateauroux who will receive you as a

relation, and who will be able to give you any further information you

require.”

Madame de Gandelau at first objected to Paul’s journey; but being

assured that Eugène’s friend would be at the station to receive the

young architect, and that he would be entertained by a family who

would be glad to receive him, his mother was satisfied. Besides, his

absence would be for three or four days only, and Chateauroux is but

fifty miles from M. de Gandelau’s residence.

How to build a house · 第 24 / 28 章