TARIJA--EXPLORATIONS IN THE CHACO
The city of San Bernardo de Tarija, founded in 1574 as a Spanish
settlement for the headquarters of the missionaries who were
working among the Indians of the Chaco, still preserves some of
the characteristics of the old Spanish convent city, the handsome
cathedral and the temple and convent of San Francisco being among its
most conspicuous buildings. The city has an interesting history, the
chronicles of colonial times, which are preserved in the national
archives, recording such deeds of heroism on the part of its early
inhabitants as are seldom surpassed in the annals of a people. When
the Viceroy Toledo visited Potosí in 1573 he was informed of the great
difficulties encountered by the Christian fathers in their efforts to
civilize the Chiriguanos of the Chaco, and of the dangers in which they
constantly risked their lives, and he at once decided to establish
garrisoned Spanish towns along the frontiers of the Chichas territory,
which adjoined that of the Chiriguanos. The Chichas were peaceable
tribes, inhabiting the district now comprised in the department
of Tarija, and they had suffered from the hostile and predatory
Chiriguanos long before the conquest, the Incas having been obliged
to construct fortifications for the protection of the vassals of the
empire against these savages of the Chaco, who could never be brought
under Inca dominion.
[Illustration: GIANT TREE IN TARIJA.]
On January 22, 1574, the viceroy despatched a commission under the
direction of a Spanish noble named Don Luis de Fuentes, with authority
to found, in the valley of Tarija, a city with the name of San Bernardo
de la Frontera. The founder received the title of captain and chief
justice of the new city and of all its jurisdiction, extending for
fifty leagues, twenty in the territory of the Chichas, and thirty in
the Chiriguanos’ lands. He was also given full power to remunerate
those who took part in the conquest and population of the new country,
distributing among them the lands they were to occupy. As founder, he
was rewarded with one-fourth of these lands. It is related that Don
Luis Fuentes found it very difficult to secure colonists, because,
though the viceroy promised much for the future, there was little to
live upon in the meantime, and the atrocities constantly committed by
the Chiriguanos struck terror to the hearts of the boldest. Finally
about forty-five Spaniards from Potosí and Chuquisaca were induced to
settle in the new town, an equal number of Indians were employed to
begin the work of laying out the town and constructing the houses, and
the vicar of a Dominican convent of Chuquisaca was engaged as chaplain
to the people. With such an insignificant defense did the brave
missionaries establish their headquarters on a frontier where more than
six thousand Indians were prepared for war, offensive and defensive,
opposing with poisoned arrows any attempt of the Spaniards to interfere
with their raids on the Chichas’ camps. While the millionaires of
Potosí were enjoying the luxury of their wealth from the mines of
the Cerro, and the Spanish monarch was employing his newly acquired
revenues to equip the famous Armada with which he hoped to bring new
glory to Spanish arms and humiliation to Queen Elizabeth of England,
a few devoted soldiers of the Cross were establishing themselves,
without aid and without ostentation, on the remote frontiers of a new
country, in the midst of a savage people, surrounded by danger, and
menaced by starvation, to work for the civilization and conversion of
colonial Spain. They renounced comfort, peace, and security, and went
into voluntary and lifelong exile among the Indians to accomplish their
purpose.
The tradition relating to the supposed missionary journeys of Saint
Thomas in South America is associated in a singular way with the
sacred relics long preserved in the church of Tarija. Soon after the
foundation of the city, a large wooden cross, apparently very old and
having done much service, was found by an Indian in one of the caves
of the hills several leagues distant from the city, in a part of the
country which, it was supposed, had not hitherto been visited by the
Spaniards. The cross, which was about fifteen feet in height, was
much worn, and the bottom was decayed as if from having been buried
in the ground. The only explanation of its origin was supplied by the
Indians of the Chaco, who, like the natives of the Titicaca region,
had a popular legend of a tall man of pale complexion, with long hair
and beard, and dressed in flowing garments almost to his feet. Their
ancestors had handed down the story that the pale stranger was a great
teacher who went about among the tribes, telling them that God had come
into the world and died on a cross, like one which he brought with him
and set up in their midst. The sacred relic was placed in the church of
Tarija, which became celebrated as a shrine where many miracles were
wrought. Whatever may be the true story of this particular cross, it is
believed by many students of the history of the South American Indians
that a cross was used as a religious symbol by some of the tribes long
before the discovery of America by Christopher Columbus.
[Illustration: THE NARROWS, NEAR TARIJA.]
The city founded under such adverse circumstances grew slowly at
first, the population being reduced soon after its foundation to about
twenty-five inhabitants; but the resolute spirit of the colonists
triumphed over disaster and sickness, and gradually the town increased
in numbers, importance, and wealth. In 1690 the little settlement had
three hundred citizens, five convents, a hospital, and a college.
During the viceroyalty Tarija was under the administration of the
Intendencia of Potosí, but after the inauguration of the republic the
department of Tarija was formed, with San Bernardo de Tarija as its
capital city. The name Tarija was given in honor of the discoverer
of the site on which the city was founded. It lies in a picturesque
valley at an elevation of seven thousand feet above sea level, and
is noted for its delightful climate and beautiful scenery. The
present population is eight thousand, of whom about two hundred are
foreigners. As capital of the department, Tarija is the residence of
the prefect, and the seat of a court of justice, university council,
committee of public safety, and other departmental organizations.
The city has an excellent public library, twelve schools for primary
and secondary instruction, a university, two banks, a hospital, and
public buildings of minor importance. Many of the private residences
are handsome modern structures, of European style, with pretty gardens
and shade trees to beautify them. Two newspapers are published, one
of which, _La Estrella de Tarija_, was founded many years ago.
The social life of Tarija is particularly charming, the people being
cultured and gracious in manner and extremely hospitable. The city
has not hitherto been especially noted as a commercial centre, though
always an important highway for traffic entering Bolivia through
Argentina. It has been chiefly regarded as a city more distinguished
for political than commercial influence, as its most prominent men
have always been identified with the affairs of government. The
present minister of instruction, Señor Don Juan Saracho, was born
in Tarija, which was also the birthplace of ex-President Arce and
of the illustrious soldier and statesman General Campero. Senator
Tomás O’Connor d’Arlach, one of Bolivia’s best poets, is a Tarijeño,
belonging to a family who have, for generations past, been among its
most distinguished citizens. The fame of its Christian teachers and
missionaries is still preserved by such self-sacrificing and kindly
souls as Father Giannechini, who is esteemed not only by his own
people, but by many foreign travellers who have enjoyed his assistance
and hospitality. Dr. Crevaux, the noted French explorer of the Chaco,
not only reported to the Bolivian government how deeply he was indebted
to the good father for aid and information, but paid an enthusiastic
tribute to the noble priest in his letters to the French government
as well. He has accompanied several hazardous expeditions through
the wilds of the Chaco, and was chaplain to the Bolivian commission
which in 1883 made a survey of the national territory bordering on the
Paraguay River. The explorer Thouar and his party expressed in letters
their eternal gratitude for the kind services shown them by Father
Giannechini, whose name is known to all travellers who have occasion to
journey in this part of Bolivia.
Not only have explorers visited Tarija in the interests of botany and
ethnology, which present special features in the region of the Chaco,
but palæontologists have found in the vicinity of the city itself some
of the most valuable fossils ever discovered. In all the great museums
of the world specimens from the valley of Tarija are on exhibition,
and especially in the Museum of Natural History of Paris, to which
the noted naturalist H. A. Weddell contributed many fine fossils as a
result of his visit to this region. He describes the valley as having
the aspect of an immense channel, which he thinks it evidently was
at some period. The hills scattered over its surface give apparent
proof that it was traversed by much more tumultuous currents than
those that now water its course. The diluvial nature of the soil is
particularly evident in the immediate vicinity of the city, where the
ground is cut in all directions by deep fissures crossing each other in
a labyrinth, and leaving isolated hillocks at intervals, some of them
distinguished by the most bizarre shapes. The walls of these gullies
show plainly that the soil of the valley, down to a great depth, is
formed of an immense bed of mud, due to the former action of a strong
current of water. The fossils found here, according to Mr. Weddell, are
of various kinds. His collection included not only the _Mastodonte
Humboldtii_, but the remains of about fifteen other animals of the
mammiferous species. He unearthed bones and teeth of the Megatherium,
a variety which was larger than the rhinoceros, and found fragments
of prehistoric shellfish, rodents, ruminants, species of the horse,
the deer, and other animals, all herbivorous, with the exception of
a single specimen which is supposed to belong to the bear family.
Mr. Weddell’s theory is that a powerful current of water brought the
fossils from another locality, and as its force was abated in passing
through the valley, they were deposited in this place.
[Illustration: BOLIVIAN COMMISSION OF LIMITS, ENCAMPED IN THE
CHACO.]
Tarija is chiefly interesting as the centre of a territory which is
rich in industrial possibilities and practically an unexploited field
for enterprises of this character. The department covers an area of one
hundred and eighty-four thousand square kilomètres and is divided into
six provinces: Cercado, Mendez, Aviléz, Arce, Salinas, and Gran Chaco.
All the provinces, with the exception of the Gran Chaco are traversed
by _serranias_ of considerable altitude, though diminishing toward
the east, where great rolling plains and gently sloping hills provide
abundant pasturage for cattle. On the higher levels, wheat, corn, and
barley are grown of a superior quality and in plenty, while the more
tropical districts of the Chaco yield bountiful harvests of rice,
tobacco, and the usual tropical products. In the mountain districts
minerals and precious stones are found, but little capital has been
invested for the development of mining properties. The climate is
superb in the western part of the department, the Gran Chaco being more
tropical, though healthful and agreeable. All the rivers of this region
are tributaries of the Paraguay: the Pilcomayo and the Bermejo are the
principal waterways.
[Illustration: PALM TREES IN THE GRAN CHACO.]
In a recent report to the supreme government, the Prefect of Tarija,
Colonel Don Leocadio Trigo, gives a complete description of the
climate, natural resources, and the inhabitants of the Gran Chaco,
which affords a glimpse of the condition and people of this little
known but very important province. Colonel Trigo led an expedition
which explored the left bank of the Pilcomayo for fifty leagues down
its course, starting from Caiza, a few miles north of Yacuiba on the
Argentine boundary. From Caiza to the Crevaux colony, one of the
recently established posts on the river, at about twenty-two degrees
south latitude, the distance is twenty-five leagues, fourteen of which
extends through fertile territory, offering little difficulty to
development. Crevaux colony lies on a beautiful peninsula, on the right
bank of the Pilcomayo, and is the centre of extensive pasture lands.
A small garrison is established here. From Crevaux colony to the next
settlement on the river. Fort Murillo, the distance is six leagues,
the river being crossed at this point in small canoes, which the
Indians call _chalanas_. At Fort Murillo sugar cane is cultivated,
though cattle raising is the chief industry. From Fort Murillo to Fort
Campero, about thirty leagues further down the river, the exploring
party passed through the territory of the Tobas and the Chorotis,
Indians of the Chaco, semi-civilized tribes. Many _estancias_
belonging to Bolivian ranchmen were visited on the way, one of the
largest being the property of Señor Gomez, a typical “cattle king”
of the Chaco. Everywhere pasturage was abundant, and sufficient
fish and game were caught for the needs of the expedition. At the
_estancia_ of Señor Gomez the prefect was visited by several
chiefs of the Tobas, to whom the friendly mission of the government
was explained satisfactorily, the Indians promising not to oppose the
progress of civilization in their territory. From Fort Murillo onward
the _bosques_, which were frequent higher up the river, became
more scattered and of lesser growth, disappearing finally in open
fields of pasturage. The river Pilcomayo at various points overflowed
its low banks, spreading out in marshes, or _bañados_, changing
its channel, and occasionally forming peninsulas, on which rice, sugar
cane, cotton, and corn are grown almost without cultivation. As the
river approaches the Paraguay its channel becomes deeper and narrower,
and its banks higher and better defined, making navigation easier. The
zone inhabited by the Chiriguanos is marked by a great forest of palm
trees which stretches along the river bank for a considerable distance.
In an interview with the Indian chief it was learned that these tribes
were better disposed than formerly to come under the influences of
civilization, and their leader asked for supplies and the necessary
guarantees, which were given, the chief being presented by the prefect
with a Remington rifle to insure his protection against invading hordes.
[Illustration: SCENE ON THE PILCOMAYO RIVER.]
At Fort Campero, on the river Pilcomayo, the territory of the Tobas
joins that of the Chorotis, the tribes of which are three times
more numerous and are in possession of a much greater extent of
land than the Tobas. Still further down the river the Tapietes are
dominant, living in the depths of the forests and remaining completely
uncivilized. The other two tribes are more advanced, and frequently
seek employment in the haciendas and pueblos of Gran Chaco. In all
their settlements, Indians are met with who speak a little Spanish.
Colonel Trigo, in his report of the expedition, says that while their
arrival appeared to cause little surprise to the Tobas, who received
them all along the route with friendliness, the Chorotis tried by every
possible means to discourage their progress by depicting all kinds
of dangers. As the party proceeded in spite of the evil predictions
of the Indians, the country presented a more beautiful aspect than
anything seen before. The pasture was rich and covered a vast extent
of territory, and distant _bosques_ lent a picturesque variety
to the scenery. Beyond this magnificent stretch of plain, which the
enthusiastic explorers called a perfect paradise, they came upon
a Choroti settlement, which marked the boundary line between the
territory of the Chorotis and the Tapietes. Here they rested for the
night, the Indians refusing to trade with them, or even to converse,
until they had assembled in parliament. When it was made known to them
that the government sought their protection and well-being, and the
advancement of civilization in their midst, they appeared well pleased
with the idea. The conference ended with the distribution of the usual
presents of tobacco and other articles, the oldest woman of the tribe
chanting a weird, monotonous song in token of the friendly acceptance
of the strangers’ visit.
[Illustration: CAMP OF CHOROTIS ON THE PLAINS OF THE BOLIVIAN
CHACO.]
The story of the journey made by the Prefect of Tarija and his
commission for fifty leagues through unexplored territory and in the
midst of uncivilized Indians has many interesting features besides
the simple relation of meetings with friendly tribes and the usual
experiences of an exploring party. There were days when the heat was
intense, when the path led through dense forest, over sandy stretches,
and through thorny undergrowth where it was necessary to cut a route
with hatchets. The guides were not always faithful, and seldom
truthful, especially those of the Chorotis, who did not at first relish
the idea of the white man’s invasion, though they became good friends
of the expedition as its motive was made known. The Tapietes offered
no welcome to the advancing party, but, on the contrary, burned their
camps at the newcomers’ approach. When face to face with the prefect
and his followers, however, the Tapietes did not show themselves
so valiant. The firearms and other accoutrements of the white man
filled them with especial admiration for his prowess. After the usual
formalities, they were informed of the purpose of the expedition, and
gave the promise of their friendliness.
The exploration made by the Prefect of Tarija along the course of the
Pilcomayo proves that it waters a region rich in pasturage and offering
great advantages for colonization. Much of the territory through which
the journey was made is as abundant in pasturage as the best lands of
Argentina, and there is practically no limit to the possibilities of
development. On the few _estancias_ scattered throughout the country
fine cattle and horses are reared, and chickens, ducks, and other
barnyard fowl thrive here. The journey gave proof of the facilities
existing for the opening up of traffic in this part of Bolivia by way
of the Pilcomayo and Paraguay Rivers, as navigation for small craft
is easy and boats and barges of sufficient capacity for carrying
considerable cargo can be used on this waterway. Dr. Santiago Vaca
Guzmán has written an interesting book entitled _El Pilcomayo_, in
which he gives a great deal of valuable information about this great
river: The Pilcomayo, in its course of six hundred miles, waters three
distinct regions; that of the Bolivian _serranias_, where it rises,
called the _puna_ by some geographers; that of the plains, where it
spreads out over a wide area in the rainy season; and that of its
_embouchure_, comprised in the delta by which it enters the Paraguay.
In its long course it receives several affluents, the Tarapaya being
particularly notable as the stream which supplies many _ingenios_ of
Potosí with water, and which, during the early period of the silver
mining industry, carried millions of dollars’ worth of the precious
metal down to the Pilcomayo. It is the opinion of those who have
explored the Pilcomayo that it may be made navigable from the point
where its main tributaries enter the river at the base of the Royal
Range to the Paraguay, and that in order to accomplish this benefit it
is necessary only to use a dredge in some parts and to clear the débris
in others, so that the river course may be better regulated.
The name of Chaco is generally applied to the great region which
extends from the province of Chiquitos in the department of Santa Cruz
to the Rio Salado on the northern border of the Argentine pampas. It
is divided into the Chaco Boreal, or northern Chaco, of which Puerto
Pacheco is the chief river port; Chaco Central, of which Villa Hayes
is the river port at the mouth of the Pilcomayo, and Chaco Austral, in
the Argentine republic. By a recent treaty of limits with Argentina,
Bolivia ceded its claim to that part of the Chaco comprised between the
Pilcomayo and Bermejo Rivers.
The new railway which is to connect Yacuiba with Santa Cruz will assist
in developing trade and encouraging immigration in this promising
province, and within a few years the Gran Chaco, which has always
been regarded as the least important province of the department,
because of its isolation from the highways of travel and its almost
total occupation by the indigenes, will be one of the most prosperous
districts of eastern Bolivia. The Indians are, as a rule, peaceable
and friendly, except in a limited district where few white men have
penetrated except on scientific expeditions. The stories of attacks by
the Indians are very often exaggerated, and the traveller is frequently
to blame for the antagonism of the tribes. The unsettled territory is
becoming more and more reduced as the opportunities for industrial
enterprise are being recognized, and few regions exist where the
conditions are more favorable for colonization than on the plains of
the Chaco. Tarija will always be the chief metropolis of this part
of Bolivia; and while its riches increase as the centre of valuable
agricultural provinces, its importance will be still greater as the
chief market for the cattle of the vast pasture lands of Gran Chaco.
[Illustration: COAT OF ARMS OF TARIJA.]
[Illustration: STEAMBOAT ON THE MAMORÉ RIVER, EL BENI.]