STAINING, DYEING, FILLING, POLISHING.
For coloring the wood wipe-stain is perhaps the easiest and quickest
and is very satisfactory. You can get it at any paint store ready
for use. Put it on with a brush of convenient size for the work and
immediately wipe off with old rags or waste. It will not show brush
marks and do not be frightened if it is much darker than you expected
before it is wiped off. If the first coat does not make it dark enough,
allow it to dry 12 hours and apply a second coat. After the last coat
has dried 12 hours or more, and it is thoroughly hard, if on fir or
similar wood, you may proceed to polish. If your material is oak or
other open grain wood you will need to apply a filler, which you can
also get at the paint store. This should be of the same color as the
stain and put on in the same way. When it turns dull, which will be in
a few minutes, wipe off all on the surface. This will leave the pores
filled. Allow filler to dry at least 12 hours before polishing.
The best and easiest polish, as well as the most beautiful, is wax.
To prepare this shave beeswax into a pan, add as much spirits of
turpentine as will moisten it through, and powdered white resin, in
proportion of one part resin to sixteen parts wax. Dissolve on stove,
being careful not to let it catch fire. Stir it up and when cool it is
ready for use. Roll some cloths into a ball, smooth on the outside, and
use to apply the polish. Put the polish on very thin and evenly, allow
it to dry a few hours, then with a clean ball of cloth (preferably
woolen) rub at first gently with the grain, then harder in a circular
motion and finally a few strokes with the grain. After 12 hours rub
again with dry cloth, and if a higher polish is desired apply a second
coat of wax as before. This polish will improve with age and occasional
rubbing.
Instead of the wipe-stains you can use wood dyes which come already
prepared. They sink farther into the wood and do not wear off as soon,
but on the other hand are much harder to apply evenly. The filler,
however, will take off some of the dye and you can sometimes even up a
little any dark spots when rubbing down the filler. The dye does not
take so long to dry as the wipe stain, six hours being plenty. Polish
as above.
The filler in both cases will darken the color a little. Do not forget
this in applying your stain or dye, and in some cases you will not
require any other coloring than the filler itself. Of this you can
judge by the color you desire and a little experimenting.
The hard glossy finish is not used on this kind of furniture and is
very much more difficult to handle. In case you desire to use it on
anything proceed as follows: Put into a glazed vessel a little gum
shellac, just cover with 90 per cent alcohol. Stir till dissolved,
about two hours, though not necessarily all the time. Do not use a
tin vessel. Do not allow lumps to settle. When thoroughly dissolved
take soft cloths and make a ball about 2 in. in diameter smooth on the
bottom. Put on this half a teaspoon of the polish, then around the ball
put a piece of cloth about a foot square, holding the ends in your
hand. On the smooth side put a few drops of linseed oil and rub your
work lightly in a circular motion all over. When it rubs harder put a
few drops more oil on the ball and also on the work. Watch carefully.
If the cloth sticks to the work, thin the polish on the ball with a
little alcohol, first taking off the outside cloth. Replace the outer
cloth with the other side out. When the work is all filled with polish
and has a good gloss, change the outer cloth for a clean one. Put a
few drops of alcohol on it and proceed as before till the oily look
has gone. Too much alcohol will wipe off the polish in splotches. When
the ball leaves little or no mark rub fast and strong with the grain a
few minutes and you are done. This finish improves with age also, but
requires practice to apply properly.
To describe the numberless methods of coloring and finishing woods
would fill a book several times the size of this one. The above are the
best, quickest and most easily learned.
PIANO OR ORGAN BENCH.
[Illustration: PIANO OR ORGAN BENCH]
Piano or Organ Bench: This seat is very easy to make and much handsomer
than the ordinary piano stool. Lumber required 10 ft. 1 in. × 12 in.
and 7 ft. 1 in. × 3 in.
[Illustration: (Bench Plan)]
First, get out the end pieces to dimensions given. Cut the mortises for
the ends of the stretcher as shown, the top of the lower mortise (a) 6
in. above the floor and the top of the upper mortise (a) 18 in. above
the floor. The tenon on the stretcher has only one shoulder, as shown
at (c). Next cut a rabbet ¼ in. deep for the seat to fit in across
the inside face at each end, just above the upper mortise as shown
by dotted lines at (d). Then round the corners and cut the handles
and arches in the bottoms with the compass saw. Next get out the seat
exactly the same width as the ends and ½ in. longer than the space
between the ends to allow for the ¼ in. in the rabbet at each end.
The stretchers (b) are, of course, ½ in. shorter to their shoulders
than the seat for the same reason, though 3½ in. longer including the
tenons. To cut the holes for the pins, insert the tenon through the
end and mark across it on the outside just where it comes through the
mortise, then take it out and bore a hole about ½ in. in diameter
on this line so that when the tenon is inserted through the mortise
one-half of the hole will be outside. You can thus make your pins round
and by splitting them in half have two pins. All sharp edges should
be rounded off a little with the plane so they will not be so easily
marred. Smooth thoroughly before putting together. The seat is held in
place by two screws from underneath through the upper stretcher into
the seat. These screws should be near the ends of the stretcher and
well into the seat, but be very careful they do not go through the seat.
PLANT STAND.
[Illustration: PLANT STAND]
[Illustration: (Plant Stand Plan)]
Plant Stand: Lumber required 4 ft. 1 in. × 12 in. Cut the top from one
end of your board. Then lay out the four legs marking the top of one
next the bottom of the other to save sawing and the four will just
about take up the width of your board. The two stretchers will cut out
of the remaining lumber leaving you a piece about 6 in. wide to spare.
Smooth up the edges of the top and take off the sharp corners with
your plane. Next shape the legs cutting the rabbet ¼ in. deep for the
top to fit in, then the mortises for the tenons on the stretcher. Next
shape stretchers, halving them together where they cross and making the
tenons about one-third as thick as the material itself, and shaped as
in the drawing. Smooth thoroughly before putting together. Fasten the
tenons with glue and the top either with a plug glued in as at (a), or
with screws sunk and covered by a plug as at (b). This plug should be
about one-half inch diameter and allowed to project about ½ in., the
end being rounded as in illustration.
This stand made about 27 in. high, 23 in. in diameter, makes a pretty
tea table.
MAGAZINE STAND.
[Illustration: MAGAZINE STAND]
Magazine Stand: Lumber required 20 ft. 1 in. × 12 in. Get out ends
first to dimensions given. Cut mortises for the tenons on the ends
of the top and bottom shelves, the top of the lower ones 5 in. above
the floor and the top of the upper ones 35 in. above the floor. These
shelves do not fit in a rabbet. Next cut rabbets ¼ in. deep for the
other two shelves, the top of the lower one being 15 in. and the top of
the upper one 25 in. above the floor. Cut holes for pins as described
in directions for piano bench. The brace (a), below the lower shelf has
no tenons and no rabbet but just fits snug and is set back from the
edge of the shelf about an inch, as shown by dotted lines in end view.
Is fastened by two screws from underneath as shown. These screws need
not be plugged, as the holes will not show.
[Illustration: (Magazine Stand Plan)]
Make the tenons on the ends of the lower shelf about 2 in. wide and
about 1½ in. for the upper tenon, the tenons being full thickness of
the shelves.
MUSIC CABINET.
[Illustration: MUSIC CABINET]
Music Cabinet: Lumber required 12 ft. 1 in. × 12 in., 6 ft. 1 in. × 4
in., 2 ft. ½ in. × 9 in., 14 ft. ½ in. × 1 in. and 4 ft. ½ in. × 12 in.
[Illustration: (Music Cabinet Plan)]
Note that the top and bottom shelves are rabbetted ¼ in. into the
sides, and held by screws from the outside covered by plugs. The
door is made with panel ½ in. thick. The three middle shelves are
adjustable, that is, may be set at any height by cutting notched
uprights of the ½ in. × 1 in. material and screwing them to the sides
of the case, as shown in side view at (a), and cross pieces to fit
in these notches and support the shelves at (b). The shelves are not
fastened at all but the corners cut out to fit round these uprights and
rest on the cross pieces (b). The support under the lower shelf (c) is
simply fitted in and fastened with screws from underneath. It will look
well to set the door in about ⅛ of an inch from the front edge of the
sides and top and bottom shelves. Piece (c) should also be set in ⅛ of
an inch. The back should be fitted between the sides and fastened with
screws covered by plugs. Any kind of catch may be used, but a square
wooden knob bevelled to a point on the outside and cut to fit a round
hole and fastened with glue in the door, as illustrated at (d), will
appear best. If this knob is used get a friction catch and set it in
the top of the door.
HALL SEAT.
[Illustration: HALL SEAT]
[Illustration: (Seat Plan)]
Hall Seat: Lumber required 12 ft. 2 in. × 12 in., 36 ft. 1 in. × 12 in.
The ends are of the 2 in. × 12 in. material dowelled and glued. The box
under the seat has two tenons on each end of back and front, which may
either come through flush with the outside of the ends or not quite
all the way through if preferred. These tenons should be about 2 in.
wide, full thickness of board and are fastened with glue and wooden
plugs straight in from the front and back. Note that the box front and
back (a) is set in about an inch from the edge of the seat. The seat
itself is hinged to a 3 in. strip (b) side view at the back, and has
a piece (c) across each end about 2 in. wide same thickness as the
seat and flush with it, instead of battens underneath, to keep it from
splitting. The bottom of the box (d) fits inside resting on a square
strip at each end which is screwed to the ends of the seat. The back is
rabbetted into the sides and fastened with screws from the back as at
(e). This back is made of three boards, as at (f), and fastened with
screws. Note that the edges of these boards are planed to an angle of
45 degrees, then the lower edge of each is just planed off so that when
put together there is a little V at the joint. This makes an easy and
good looking joint, as no crack will be visible, while at the same time
it does not require the care and time necessary in the ordinary joined
edges. This seat will be found very convenient in the hall for rubbers,
etc., if you have a galvanized pan made to fit in the bottom of the box.
HAT TREE.
[Illustration: HAT TREE]
[Illustration: (Hat Tree Plan)]
Hat Tree: Lumber required 16 ft. 1 in. × 6 in., 6 ft. 4 in. × 4 in. The
4 in. × 4 in. is, of course, for the post which should be bevelled to
a point at the top as shown. The feet are made by gluing three pieces
of the 1 in. × 6 in. together, as shown at (a), and then sawing to
shape with compass saw. It will save work to allow the middle piece to
project about 1½ in. for a tenon to fit into mortise in the post, as
shown at (a). The arch in the bottom of the feet need not be cut all
the way across but simply take the corner off, as at (b), which shows
the inner end of a foot. This taking the corner off saves work, gives a
firm footing and has all the appearance of being cut clear across.
To make the coat and hat hooks take a piece of the 1 in. × 6 in., as
at (c), cut a jog about 1 in. deep in the lower inner corner for a
shoulder, measure 6 in. from the inner end along the top edge to (d).
Using this as a center, with your compass mark the half circle (e),
which should be 3 in. in diameter; 4 in. from the inner end of the
piece and 3 in. below the top edge take another point (f) and describe
a circle 3 in. in diameter as before. Next bore a 1 in. hole at (d) as
near the edge of the board as the bit will work and a 1 in. hole at
(f). With the compass saw saw round the outer circle at (e) until you
come straight under (d), then saw straight to the top side of the hole
(f). From the hole (f) slightly above its lower side, so as to leave
a little hook, saw straight to the outer circle and then follow this
outer circle until directly under point (f), then straight into the
shoulder as illustrated. Fit these four pieces into mortises in post,
fasten with glue and pin as illustrated.
DINING TABLE.
[Illustration: DINING TABLE]
[Illustration: (Table Plan)]
Dining Table: Lumber required 10 ft. 3 in. × 3 in., 16 ft. 1 in. × 4
in. and 18 ft. 1 in. × 12 in. For the top join four pieces of the 1 in.
× 12 in. 4½ ft. long with dowels and glue. Allow it to stand at least
twelve hours, then cut circle and dress off the top with plane. The
stretchers (a) are halved together where they cross in the center of
the table and mortised into the legs as shown. Stretchers (b) are also
halved together at center and shaped and mortised as shown. It adds to
the appearance if you put a pin in the top of these stretchers where
they cross as shown at (c). This pin may be either square or round.
The top is fastened with screws from underneath through the stretchers
(a). These screws need not, of course, be long enough to reach entirely
through the stretcher, but the heads may be sunk about 2 in., as shown
at (d).
CHAIR.
[Illustration: SIDE CHAIR]
Chair: Lumber required 12 ft. 1 in. × 4 in., 12 ft. 1 in. × 2 in., 4
ft. ½ in. × 2 in., 3 ft. 1½ in. × 1½ in.
[Illustration: (Chair Plan)]
First get out the back posts from a piece of 1 in. × 4 in. to
dimensions given. Cut the mortises for the back slats, seat frame and
spreaders at positions indicated in sketch. The upper rail in the back
should be about ¾ of an inch below the top of the side posts and by
following the dimensions given in drawing you will get the position of
the lower rail. The three upright slats in the back should be mortised
into the top and bottom rail, as indicated by dotted line, but may be
mortised full thickness and so save cutting a tenon, though if you do
cut a tenon it perhaps saves more time, as you do not have to be so
careful in cutting your mortise, which is covered by the shoulder of
the tenon. When you have got out the back posts, next make the front
posts, cutting your mortises exactly the same height from the floor
as those in the back posts. Then get out the side rails and put these
pieces together. The tenons on the side rail should be as long as
possible without going quite through the leg, as they take all the
strain when the chair is tipped back. Having glued the two sides of the
chair together next get out the top and bottom rail of the back and
fit and glue the three slats into them. Then get out the other rails
of the back and front and glue them in one side of the chair. Then put
on the other side of the chair and the frame is complete. The seat is
what is known as a slip seat and is made and upholstered separately,
then slipped into the frame of the chair. The inner frame for this seat
is shown at (a) by dotted lines. It is made of the 1 in. × 2 in. stuff
firmly mortised and glued at the corners and rests on four brackets
at the corners of the frame, as shown by dotted lines. It should be
a full ⅛th of an inch smaller all around than the frame in order to
allow it to slip into the frame after the leather seat has been tacked
on. This leather seat is made by tacking strips of strong webbing or
canvas about 3½ in. wide over the top of this inner frame. Interlace
these strips like basket work, leaving little or no space between them
and stretch tightly over the frame. With soft cotton, hair or other
padding laid evenly over the whole surface, being careful to leave no
hollows and making the center a little thicker than the edges, build up
your seat as thick as you want it. Then stretch the leather or other
covering tightly over both padding and frame and tack it firmly on the
under side of the frame. To cover the webbing and ends of the leather,
tack a piece of black cloth over the whole bottom, then slip the seat
into the frame. Some workmen put a pin through the leg and tenon where
the rails are mortised into the legs. This adds strength, but we think
is hardly necessary if your tenons fit properly and are strongly glued.
MORRIS CHAIR.
[Illustration: MORRIS CHAIR]
Morris Chair: Lumber required 8 ft. 2 in. × 2 in., 14 ft. 1 in. × 6
in., 14 ft. 1 in. × 2 in., 5 ft. ½ in. × 10 in.
[Illustration: (Chair Plan Top View)]
[Illustration: (Chair Plan Side View)]
First get out the posts. Cut the mortises, as indicated, for the seat
frame. Put the sides together, fastening the arm on top of the posts by
a screw down through the arm into the top of each post. This screw, of
course, is to be covered by a plug, or if you desire mortise the top of
the post through the arm making a square tenon mitred to a point on top
of the arm. Next put in the front and back rail. Screw a strip (a) side
view on the inside of the side rails and slats (b-b-b) resting on these
strips to hold the seat cushion. The back is made separately and hinged
on to the top of the back rail of the frame. It rests against a bar
which fits into notches in the arms, as shown at (c), the bar itself
being shown at (d). Note that the arms project about 1 in. inside of
the posts and therefore are rounded out to the post at the back, where
the back of the chair comes up between them. We would suggest your
having the cushions made at an upholsterer’s, as it is difficult to
make good cushions yourself. In imitation leather these will cost about
$10.00 and in genuine Spanish leather about $20.00.
LIBRARY TABLE.
[Illustration: LIBRARY TABLE]
Library Table: Lumber required 26 ft. 1¼ in. × 12 in., 10 ft. 1¼ in. ×
8 in., 20 ft. about 1 in. or 1¼ in., square.
[Illustration: (Table Plan Side View)]
[Illustration: (Table Plan)]
First select three pieces 5 ft. long of the best of the 1¼ in. × 12
in. for the top. Join these with dowels and glue. When dry fasten four
strips on the under side with glue and screws, as shown at (a) in side
view and bottom view. These strips should be set back about ½ in. from
the edge of the top and mitred at the corners. They strengthen the top
and give it a massive appearance. Next get out the ends. The pieces
(b) and (c) are exactly the same. To mark the curve place one point of
your compass at the corner formed by the dotted lines at (d) and with
the other point mark the curve, the points being 3¼ in. apart. The
upright pieces (e-e) are mortised into the top and bottom pieces and
are made as shown at (f). The shelf should be made before the table is
put together, the position for the tenons being marked by placing the
end of it against the mortises in the uprights after the end is put
together. The ends are fastened to the top by means of a square strip
which is screwed to the top and then the ends screwed to the strip,
as shown at (g) side view and bottom view. The tenons in the ends of
the shelf should be about 1⅛ in. wide and full thickness of the shelf,
which will make them square. The pins for these tenons are shown at (h)
and should be about ½ in. thick.
Special Designs
Use the following blank pages for pencil sketches and clippings.
We will furnish working plans, with full instructions for any piece of
furniture you may desire at 50c. each. Just send us a rough sketch or a
picture, giving your idea.
The Farm & Orchard
Publishing Co.
[Illustration: (Union printing mark: Allied Printing.;
Trades Council; Union Label; Spokane Wash.)]
Spokane,
Washington.
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