DRESSING OFF AND SMOOTHING.
As a rule it is better to leave the final dressing off till the joints
are all made and glued or otherwise fastened, so that in case there are
any little inaccuracies the pieces can be planed smooth. This always
has to be done with a glued joint, either with plane or scraper, or
both.
The scraper is simply a flat piece of thin steel about 3 in. × 5 in.
The best ones are cut from an old saw, but you can buy very good ones.
To sharpen a scraper lay it on a flat board and rub the side of the
edge with a piece of hard steel (your nail set is good) laid flat on
it, then take it up and draw the steel firmly along the edge. This
makes it flat on the sides and edges but turns up a little sharp edge.
Use both hands with the scraper and tip it in the direction you are
pushing it and scrape a little across the grain. It is well to scrape
all surfaces to take out any plane marks or nicks and it saves work
when sandpapering. Sandpaper with coarse, then fine sandpaper, or steel
wool, =always rubbing with the grain=. It is hard to be sure that
your work is quite smooth before it has any coloring on it, as the
shadows are very light. Look across it towards the light both ways,
as the shadow is always away from the light, of course. If in doubt,
rub some more. The finish of furniture is of the utmost importance and
it should be absolutely smooth before anything is put on it. Even the
fine sandpaper will make scratches which show on a polished surface if
not always rubbed with the grain. Have horizontal work between you and
the light; vertical work stand between light and work. With oak it is
well to moisten to raise fibre, then rub again when dry. When you are
satisfied and doubly satisfied that not a least blemish remains, and
not before, then proceed to put on your finish.