VOYAGE FROM THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH TO PORTSMOUTH, ON THE MOUTH
OF THE OHIO RIVER, FROM MAY 18TH TO JUNE 20TH
Little Platte River--William's Ferry--The Mormons, a Religious
Sect--St. Charles--Land Journey to St. Louis--Residence
there--The Indian Barrows--Mouth of the Ohio--New
Harmony--Journey to Vincennes and Louisville on the
Ohio--Cincinnati--Portsmouth.
On the afternoon of the 18th of May, I left the Cantonment of
Leavenworth amid a very heavy rain, which continuing on the 19th I
lay-to, and made my people light a fire on shore, to warm themselves,
and dry their clothes. As soon as we had left Little Platte River, I
observed numerous isolated settlements, from which others had taken
their rise. At Portage l'Independence, I saw Mr. Soublette, who had
been ill for some time.[93] As I had very recently visited his trading
post on the upper Missouri, I was enabled to give him the most recent
intelligence respecting it. He has always been engaged in the fur
trade; in the first instance, in opposition to the American Fur
Company; subsequently, however, in connection with it; he was now
waiting for the steam-boat, Oto,[94] intending to go by it to St. Louis.
About five o'clock we reached the landing-place of Liberty, but I
did not make any stay there. Descoteaux here fell in with one of his
acquaintances, a Canadian beaver hunter, and begged permission to leave
me; I did not wish to detain the man, and accordingly set him on shore
with all his furs and skins. At nightfall we came to a settlement
called William's Ferry, or Charaton-Scatty; here, on the northern
bank, we lay-to for the night, under shelter of a lofty umbrageous
forest.[95] We passed the 20th on the same spot, our boat having
received some injury, and we accordingly had it repaired; at the same
time we caused our effects to be dried, as they had been thoroughly
drenched by the rain.
We met with a friendly reception in a house near the landing-place,
where the mistress sold us poultry, buttermilk, &c., for which she at
first declined accepting any payment. The {471} whole country in the
valleys, as well as on the mountains, was covered with a lofty shady
forest of magnificent trees, of every variety common to this climate,
which, being refreshed by the late rains, were clad in the most
brilliant verdure. The splendid plumage of the bright red baltimore,
and the vermilion tanagra (_Tanagra rubra_) was very striking, amidst
the dark foliage of the forest; the latter is here called the
flax-bird, from its feeding on the buds of that plant. We listened
with pleasure to the note of the cuckoo, which much resembles that of
the European bird. We heard frogs and tree-frogs in the vicinity, and
the whistle of some animal exactly like that of our yellow-striped
salamander, and doubtless one of that family,[96] under the fallen
trunks of the trees. I was much surprised, during these travels in
North America, to meet with so few animals of the lizard kind, whereas
tortoises were very numerous.
There was only a single path along the bank from one plantation to
another; all else was covered with a thick forest. There were wild,
lonely valleys, with colossal tulip trees, and an undergrowth of papaw,
which was now in flower; a carpet of ferns was spread on the ground in
the dark shade, where a small clear stream meandered among the grasses
and other plants. The dwellings of a few planters were scattered on
the hills. In this wild and romantic valley I saw but few birds; and,
in general, I remarked, in these woods on the Missouri, that far more
birds lived in the vicinity of the plantations than in the recesses
of the forest, an observation which is confirmed by McKenney,[97] and
of which I have spoken in my travels in Brazil. We saw no mammalia in
these woods, though there are many squirrels; the number of which,
however, must have greatly decreased if what Bradbury says is true,
that 2,000 of them had been shot in one hunting excursion.[98] I
unwillingly left a spot so interesting to the naturalist, especially as
I had no agreeable conversation to expect on board the boat. My live
bears attracted all the inhabitants {472} in the neighbourhood; nay,
the people here were more eager to see the much-dreaded grizzly bears
than even in Europe.
Our vessel was crowded with curious persons, and, besides these, an
unwelcome intruder had intoxicated the greater part of my people.
Among our inquisitive visitors there were several men belonging to
a religious sect known here by the name of Mormons. They complained
bitterly of the unjust treatment which they had lately experienced.
They had lived on the other side of the Missouri, and, as they
asserted, had been expelled, on account of their doctrines, by the
neighbouring planters, their dwellings demolished and burnt, their
plantations destroyed, and some of them killed, on which they settled
on the north bank of the river. I was not able to learn whether all
this was true, or why, after an interval of one or two years, they have
not obtained redress from the government. So much, however, is certain,
that, if these people spoke the truth, it would be a great disgrace to
the administration of justice in this country, which calls itself the
only free country in the world.[99]
According to their account, an angel appeared in 1821 to the founder
of their doctrine, and brought him golden tables of law, on which the
contents of a certain chapter of the Bible were engraved, and which
is the substance of the doctrine. The inscription was translated, and
the angel took the tables away. They spoke also of a prophet Mormon,
but I was not able clearly to comprehend the mystical meaning of their
words.[100] A sensible old man gave me some notion of their doctrine,
to which he seemed to be much devoted. He affirmed that their sect was
perfectly harmless, and never molested others, a point respecting which
their neighbours might, perhaps, give a different testimony.
These backwoodsmen were much interested by all our effects, and were
particularly struck with our percussion guns and rifles. In those parts
where the woods have been cleared, the country which they inhabit is
extremely fertile. Deer and wild turkeys are still met with; but bears
are not numerous, and the panther is only now and then seen. The elk
(_Cervus Canadensis_) has been long since extirpated. The wood-rat
(_Neotoma?_) is not uncommon; it does mischief to the fruits, and gets
into the so-called smoke-houses, where meat is smoked and dried. The
common grey wolf is said to be very numerous: the black race is seldom
seen here, and the white never, which is a proof that it is a distinct
species.
On the 21st of May we passed Fire Prairie and the mouth of Fishing
Creek,[101] and again saw magnificent forests, the trees of which were
so lofty that our guns were unable to reach the birds perched on the
upper branches. The ground was covered with flowers, among which was
a beautiful sky-blue iris, and with an undergrowth of papaw trees,
above which arose the tall forest trees, such as the _Gleditschia
triacanthos_, sassafras, tulip trees, &c., entwined with the _Vitis
hederacea_. The red tanagra shone like a glowing coal amid the dark
forest.
On the following day, the 22nd of May, we met the Joway steamer,
which could with difficulty {473} proceed up the shallow river. Old
Roubedoux, who was on board, brought news from St. Louis. He had
purchased from the Fur Company, for 500 dollars, the trading house
on the Black Snake Hills, from which we had just come.[102] Having
halted near the steam-boat at noon, with a temperature of 89°, we
made a short excursion into the wood, where I procured the beautiful
red adder, _Coluber coccineus_. The colour of its exquisitely marked
body is a brownish vermilion, and, therefore, not so purely vermilion
as the splendid coral adder of Brazil. The forest was so full of the
caterpillars which have been already mentioned, that walking through
it was most disagreeable. At five in the afternoon we passed Grand
River,[103] and lay-to for the night six miles further down, on the
south bank, at a plantation, the friendly inmates of which, though very
well disposed, could give us only a small supply of provisions.
On the 23rd, in the neighbourhood of Little Arrow Rock,[104] we saw
some persons catching an immensely large white catfish, the weight
of which must have been very great, but I was not able to stop and
examine it. At this place we heard a strange noise under the boat,
which my people affirmed was produced by the prickly fins of the fish
called by them casburgot, or malacigan (_Catastomus carpio_, Les.),
and by the Americans, buffalo-fish. It weighs from five to six pounds.
Towards evening we passed Franklin, and stopped at Boonville.[105]
Two negro slaves, who were returning from the plantations, were very
much astonished at the sight of my bears: one of them had a long tin
speaking-trumpet, with which these men, when working in the forest,
are called together. It may not be irrelevant to remark that all the
negroes of these parts are slaves. Fine tall trees covered the hills on
the bank, which my people ascended in order to purchase provisions in
the scattered dwellings of the planters.
On the 24th we passed the small town of Columbia, below the mouth of
the Manitu stream, where a quantity of logs of wood, for the use of
the steam-boats, was piled up on the bank. At noon the thermometer was
at 90°. An uninterrupted forest, with beautiful scenery, adorned the
canal during the entire extent of this day's voyage. Having passed the
village of Maryanne, on the northern side, we reached Jefferson City at
six in the afternoon.[106] This place is still in its infancy and most
of the habitations are scattered, while the ground between them is not
yet levelled. It is covered with heaps of stones and high weeds; and
cows and pigs were roaming about at liberty. We could not obtain any
provisions except salt pork, biscuits, and whisky. In the bookseller's
shop, as it is termed, we only found a few school books. In the evening
I proceeded to the plantation of a person named Ramsay,[107] where a
number of negroes congregated about our boat, from whom I was fortunate
enough to purchase some poultry. These people were dressed in all sorts
of left-off clothes, and forcibly reminded me of similar scenes in
Brazil.
At eight o'clock in the morning of the 25th, we passed Côte sans
Dessein; and at noon, when the thermometer was at 88°, reached the
little town of Portland, which was founded about two years since.
Near the mouth of Gasconade River we met the Oto steam-boat.[108] We
stopped {474} for the night below the Rivière à Berger, and on the
morning of the 26th lay-to at the settlement of a man named Porter,
to which the name of Washington has been given, though at present it
consists of only a few isolated dwellings: the inhabitants were very
courteous and obliging.[109] The adjacent forest was animated by many
interesting birds; and I here purchased a live young bear. Opposite to
this place, four or five miles up the country, a Mr. Von Mertels, of
Hanover, has settled; and here, a few years since, Dr. Duden resided,
who has written on North America, and who is still much talked of in
this country.[110] In the evening we reached St. Charles, to which
great numbers of German emigrants now resort,[111] and lay-to at the
settlement of Mr. Chauvin, who keeps an inn, and has set up a stage
between this and St. Louis. Here we passed the night, but the rain
was so heavy, that we were prevented leaving the house. The people
spoke to us a great deal of the many persons who had fallen victims to
the cholera the year before. There is a ferry at this place over the
Missouri, in which the large wheel is set in motion by six horses.
On the 27th, after the rain had ceased, we went by land to St. Louis:
the weather was warm and damp, and the brilliant humming-birds
fluttered about the plants in the court-yard of the house. As the stage
did not run to-day, I hired a long, open, farmer's wagon, with three
horses, in order to reach the Mississippi as speedily as possible,
while Dreidoppel was to go by water, with my collections, &c. We
immediately entered the forest, where colossal trees, especially the
sugar maple, oak, elm, &c., covered a hilly ground, overgrown with
many interesting plants, about which the most beautiful butterflies
peculiar to this country were hovering. From time to time we saw
planters' dwellings all built of wood, covered with planks, and roofed
with shingles, the chimneys being of brick. Among the many species of
trees is the black oak, which is used for dyeing and tanning. A great
quantity of the bark is sent to England. The forest extends many miles,
and, becoming gradually thinner, is succeeded by the open prairie,
which does not differ from the prairies of the west, especially of the
upper Missouri. We stopped at an isolated inn to refresh our horses,
and were still six or seven miles from St. Louis. The last part of
the road lay through a wood of dark green oaks, in which I saw many
circular pools of water, which undoubtedly owed their origin to the
sinking of the earth, of which Mr. Say speaks, in the account of
Major Long's expedition.[112] These pools are fifty or sixty paces in
diameter, and are inhabited by numerous frogs, whose croaking is heard
at a great distance. At noon we alighted at the Union Hotel in St.
Louis, after an absence of above a year.
St. Louis was now healthy, and not suffering from the cholera, as we
had expected; there had, however, been a couple of cases in a steamer
from New Orleans. No change of consequence had taken place since our
last visit. At the factory of the American Fur Company I found very
agreeable letters from Europe. Here I saw Mr. Lamont, to whose amiable
family we were introduced, but I greatly regretted the absence of
General Clarke.[113] We received much {475} kindness in the house of
Major O'Fallan, who is perfectly acquainted with the Missouri, and the
aboriginal inhabitants. Here we saw a collection of Indian portraits
and scenery by Mr. Catlin, a painter from New York, of which we were
able to form an opinion after our recent travels in the country.[114]
Major Dougherty, our friend and travelling companion, had the goodness
to give us a night's lodging, and we were highly gratified by his
conversation about the countries which we had just left, and with which
he is well acquainted.
Among the remarkable objects in the vicinity of St. Louis are the
ancient Indian barrows, the traces of which I had hitherto in vain
attempted to find on the whole course of the Missouri. In order to
take a view of them, we crossed the Missouri in a steam-ferry, where
there is room for the horses and carriage, and in the upper story of
its pavilion, a light, airy chamber. On the opposite bank are a good
many houses, inns, and shops, under the shade of lofty old trees. Fish,
turtles, vegetables, and other provisions, are daily sent from this
place to the market in the town. The surrounding country is level,
sandy, and, in part, marshy; the road passes alternately through open
meadows and copses to the skirts of an extensive verdant plain, or
prairie, after we had crossed a wooden bridge thrown over the pretty
stream called Kahokia Creek, the banks of which are picturesquely
bordered with fine trees.[115] The colour of the water is dark brown,
like many forest streams in Brazil, and forms a beautiful camera
obscura. The open plain, which we now reached, was everywhere clothed
with young grass, and in several spots with low bushes. As soon as we
had passed the skirts of the forest on the Mississippi, a long row of
very flat ancient Indian barrows came in sight, extending parallel
with the river, and a second row, forming an angle with the first, in
which some of the barrows are higher than others. Right in front of the
angle formed by the two rows is the most considerable barrow of all,
which does not appear at first sight, though it is at least sixty feet
high. It is called Trappist's or Monk's Hill, because some French monks
of the order of La Trappe formerly lived here.[116] I may remark by
the way, that many settlers of French origin live in this part of the
country.
We proceeded in the direction of the above hill, which is about six
miles from the river; it is covered with greensward and a few old
trees, and some new wooden buildings are erected on it. In the prairie
stood a group of very tall poplars, under which a herd of cattle was
reposing. Here we left our wagon, but the bull, who seemed to be lord
and master, was at first much inclined to oppose our passage. Numerous
birds of many species and beautiful butterflies were fluttering
about in the ardent noontide sun. The Indian hills, or barrows, of
which Say counted seventy-five, have a very striking appearance;
they stand in a row, generally isolated, but sometimes two are side
by side. Some of them still retain their conical form, while others
are very much flattened. There are similar barrows near St. Louis on
the other side of the Mississippi, most of which have, however, been
destroyed by cultivation and building. The destination and the origin
of these remarkable barrows and walls, which have been the subject
of so much discussion, {476} are still involved in obscurity; while
the government of the United States alone might have collected the
necessary materials on the subject, if it had employed competent
persons to excavate, carefully to examine, survey, and describe all
the monuments of this kind that are scattered over the states of
the Union.[117] Even at this time, it is not wholly too late to do
much towards the accomplishment of so interesting an inquiry; not a
moment should, however, be lost. Baron Alexander Von Humboldt has
given an interesting essay on the subject in his valuable works; and
several American writers have collected and published many particulars
respecting these remains. Of some of them Warden has given ground
plans and sketches, but no favourable result can be expected till the
excavation is prosecuted in earnest.[118] Perhaps the flint knives
resembling those of Mexico[119] might be found near St. Louis. These
barrows have a close resemblance to the ancient German barrows which
are everywhere found in our forests. A late traveller (Dr. De Wette)
conjectures that the American barrows are not produced by art, but by
nature, because there is no fosse round them from which the earth was
taken; this notion is, however, very easily refuted, as the barrows and
walls are arranged in regular figures and lines, and in like manner
no fosse or excavation is to be seen round the barrows in the German
forests. The earth was taken from the surface in the neighbourhood, but
it was by no means necessary on that account to excavate a fosse. With
regard to the regular position of the barrows of St. Louis, they have
in this respect a close resemblance to the kurghans of the Russian
steppes, which also lie in long regular lines. The very form, too, of
both seems to be quite similar, if we except the stone images which
are often seen on the kurghans. Pallas, in his "Tour through Southern
Russia" (Vol. I. Vig. 1), gives a sketch of a row of barrows which
perfectly resemble those of St. Louis.[120]
A pleasant westerly breeze which sprung up, was a great relief to us in
the sultry heat, and continued till we returned to the shady forests
on Kahokia Creek, which we reached at two o'clock. Numerous tortoises
live in this stream. The banks of the Mississippi, near St. Louis, are
likewise remarkable for various impressions of shells and zoophytes
in the limestone; among them are the beautiful crinoides, which are
found in great perfection close to the buildings of the town. Mr.
Lesueur has collected and sent to France specimens of all these fossil
remains, and every information on the subject is contained in his and
other similar works. I neglected, while I was at St. Louis, to see the
tame buffaloes which Mr. Pièrre Chouteau kept on his estate near the
town, though I should have been very glad, for many reasons, to have
seen these animals in a domestic state. I have been frequently told,
in America, of hybrids of the buffalo (bison) and the tame race, but
never saw any; and several naturalists, especially Mr. Thomas Say,[121]
have {477} always affirmed that no instance ever occurred of hybrids,
capable of propagating their kind, of that animal and the tame species.
He declares that every case into which he examined turned out to be
unproved. Mr. Gallatin has, indeed, lately spoken on the subject, and
pronounced against Mr. Say's opinion. He calls the bison a mere variety
of the common ox; but this may be easily refuted.[122] The bison is
quite a different species from the ox, as is clear, not only from its
outward form, high withers, short tail, the formation of the head, and
the peculiarity of its long hair, but likewise from the osteology, the
number of the ribs and vertebræ being different in the two animals.
There is another point on which I differ from Mr. Gallatin, namely, his
denial of the great decrease in the number of buffaloes in general.
For when we consider how far these animals have been driven up the
country, and that, in these very parts, they are even less numerous
than formerly, we have a fact which at once proves a great decrease, of
which nobody in the interior of the country can entertain a doubt.
After staying about a week we took leave of our friends at St. Louis,
and embarked on board the Metamore steam-boat, which left on the 3rd of
June. Messrs. Chouteau, Lamont, General Pratte, and Ortley, accompanied
me on board, where we bade each other farewell.[123] We glided rapidly
down the Mississippi, and passed Chester before evening, but were soon
obliged to lay-to, because we were apprehensive that the night would be
dark.
Our voyage on the 4th of June was extremely pleasant; the forests on
the Mississippi were clothed in the brightest verdure, climbing plants
interlaced the tall trees, and the papaw was in greater luxuriance
than I have anywhere seen; but here, too, the caterpillars had partly
stripped the bushes. Towards nine in the morning, after the early
vapours were dispelled, we reached the mouth of the Ohio, the clear
green water of which contrasted strongly with the grey and muddy stream
of the Mississippi. We stopped at the landing-place at the junction
of the two rivers, to wait for the steamer expected from New Orleans,
and to take on board some of its passengers. The Ohio is at this time
too shallow for the large Mississippi steam-boats to ascend it, and
they, therefore, transfer their passengers to the smaller boats from
St. Louis, Cincinnati, Louisville, and Pittsburg, which, in the present
instance, occasioned us a most unpleasant delay. The Boonslick, a large
boat from New Orleans, lay aground in the Mississippi, waiting to be
relieved.[124] We therefore proceeded to her with a flat boat, by the
aid of which she was lightened of a part of her cargo, consisting of
lead. This business detained our Metamore a considerable time, after
which we returned to the landing-place: we made use of this delay to
undertake an excursion into the forest which borders upon the town.
_Papilio Ajax_ and _Turnus_ were very numerous, and we caught a great
many, especially of the former. In the shade of the forest we found
the red Mississippi tanagra, which I had not before seen on my whole
journey; and, likewise, observed its nest, which did not seem to annoy
the birds. The beautiful baltimore and many {478} other interesting
birds were likewise frequent. At three o'clock the boat's bell summoned
the scattered party to return. Two large New Orleans steam-boats,
the Mediterranean and the Chester, now arrived. The former, which is
the largest on the Mississippi, and about the size of a frigate, only
much higher, came along side our vessel.[125] It had several cholera
patients on board, and two persons had died of that disorder during
the voyage. It was by no means pleasant to us to be obliged to receive
passengers from this boat; nevertheless we took a good number of them
on board higher up the river, at Smithland, whither this large boat
was able to accompany us. In the evening we arrived at the village of
Paduca, where we passed the night; and at noon the following day (the
5th of June) reached Smithland at the mouth of Cumberland River, where
we stopped no longer than was necessary to receive the passengers from
the Mediterranean; after which we proceeded on our voyage, in calm,
hot weather, up the Ohio, which appeared in all its beauty, passed
Cave-in-Rock,[126] continued our voyage during the night, and early in
the morning of the 6th of June reached Mount Vernon, where we quitted
the steamer. We then procured a carriage (dearborn), and pursued our
journey to Harmony by land.[127]
This road, which I have already described, was extremely pleasant,
on account of the luxuriant foliage of the lofty forest, though the
trees, especially the beeches, had in many places suffered from the
frost. The finest tulip, storax, and sassafras, with many other kinds,
spread a cool shade, while innumerable butterflies afforded us much
entertainment. The ajax, the blue and black philenor, the yellow and
black turnus, &c., were countless. Our driver frequently alighted from
his seat to shoot with his rifle some grey squirrels, which are here
very common, for dinner. About noon we had the pleasure of meeting Mr.
Say and our other friends at Harmony, in good health. I here became
acquainted with Mr. Robert Dale Owen,[128] a very well informed man,
and derived much instruction and gratification from my conversation
with Messrs. Say, Lesueur, Owen, Macklure, Twigg, &c., by whom we were
most kindly received.
On the 9th of June, after taking leave of our friends, I left New
Harmony, with Mr. Lesueur, to continue our journey by way of Vincennes,
to which place Mr. Twigg accompanied us on horseback.[129]
The whole country through which we passed, except near Vincennes, close
to the Wabash, is an uninterrupted forest, in which the dwellings
of the settlers or backwoodsmen lie scattered on both sides of the
wood. They are, as I have already described them, for the chief part,
block-houses, &c. and only here and there is a brick building to be
seen. The fields are everywhere surrounded with fences. The country
soon becomes hilly, and the soil in the vicinity of the Wabash is very
fertile. The heat and dust were excessively annoying in this dry
season; however, fresh, cool water was everywhere to be found, each
dwelling-house being usually supplied with a well. A stranger is much
struck with the dress of the women, living in small, wretched cottages,
where he not unfrequently sees, if not a lady in fashionable {479}
attire, yet in a style of dress which, in Europe, he would neither look
for nor see in habitations far superior. In these little cages there
are immense four-post bedsteads, which occupy nearly the whole of the
small chamber, which, like the cobbler's stall, "serves for bedroom,
parlour, kitchen, and all." The door and windows of these hovels are
generally open. Though the weather was particularly dry this spring,
the corn looked very well; the soil of the forest is everywhere a
very rich black mould, except in one place, where, for a couple of
miles, sand suddenly appears. Mr. Lesueur, who has often visited and
examined this part of the country, directed my attention to the entire
change of vegetation. Instead of the many kinds of lofty trees in
the forests of Indiana, we find, in this sandy tract, the low, black
oak, which is not above thirty or forty feet high; as soon as that is
passed the tall trees again appear. Here the fallen trunks give a wild
and romantic appearance to the forest, where great numbers of cattle
and swine were feeding. We here saw a place where the inhabitants of
the neighbourhood assemble for religious exercises, which are called
camp meetings. These singular assemblies have been described by many
travellers, and Mrs. Trollope does not appear to have exaggerated in
her account of them.[130] We observed vestiges of huts, fireplaces, and
the eminences fenced round, which serve as pulpits, from which their
spiritual teachers preach. We stopped, at noon, at a small village
in the wood, consisting of only five or six houses, which is called
Owensville.[131] Close to the cottage where we dined was a large clover
field, in which innumerable butterflies, especially ajax and philenor,
were fluttering. Volney observes, that he travelled through the
extensive forest, from Louisville to Vincennes, in the month of July,
without seeing a single settlement, or hearing the song of a bird.[132]
The first part of this sentence is no longer applicable; but I can
confirm the latter, for which many authorities might be quoted.
Before evening we reached Prince Town, which is built with a large
square in the centre.[133] We passed the night in a good inn, where,
as is common in this country, a sort of punca was suspended over the
table in the dining-room; this was drawn backwards and forwards by a
negro, and served at once to cool the air, and to chase away the swarms
of troublesome flies. On the following day we passed through lofty and
more thickly-wooded forests than yesterday, consisting in many places
of old beeches which had suffered much from the frost: indeed, both the
fruit and mast were destroyed completely by the frost in this part of
the country. The catalpa was in full blossom, but, though the ground
was covered with a luxuriant growth of plants, none of them were yet in
flower. We saw numbers of the grey squirrel, which was served up to us
in the inn as a delicacy. Beautifully romantic little valleys intersect
the tall and gloomy forest, where we now and then met some farmers,
whose wives were all on horseback, smoking their pipes. After taking
some dinner at an isolated saw-mill in the wood, we reached, three
miles further off, the White River, in a fertile valley, where the heat
was very oppressive, because the {480} forest completely impeded any
circulation of air. The wild vine flourishes here in great luxuriance,
the soil being very rich.
The White River is a fine stream, rather narrower at this place than
the Wabash, and there is a ferry to cross over to the other side.[134]
There the face of the country is considerably changed, for, the soil
being sandy, the vegetation of the sand and prairies of St. Louis again
recurs. It is worthy of remark, that all the plants in the sandy soil
were now in flower, whereas in the rich black mould of the forest none
were yet in blossom.
When the rather hilly country on the White River was passed, it became
flatter, and we at length issued from the forest into the verdant
plain of the Wabash, in which Vincennes is situated, at the distance
of twelve miles from the White River. As we approached Vincennes, we
observed, on the right hand, a hill covered with oak bushes, called
Warrior's Hill, from which the Americans observed the enemy when they
took this place from the English.[135]
Vincennes is one of the most ancient settlements of the French, founded
in 1736. There was formerly a fort here, belonging to the series of
posts by which a communication was kept up in this wilderness. It
was subsequently called Old Post, and is said to have received its
present name from a Captain Vincennes, who possessed the confidence
of the Indians, and to whom they presented a piece of land.[136] It
is now a mean-looking, scattered place, consisting of several unpaved
streets, on the bank of the Wabash. Many old buildings are still to be
seen, remaining from the time in which so many French settlements were
founded in the west. Most of the houses built at that time are small,
and have only one story; which is likewise the case at Vincennes, but
the Americans have, however, erected many new brick buildings. The
court-house, standing at the verge of the prairie, is, as usual, a
square edifice, covered with white plaster. The descendants of the
French, of whom there are many families, do not belong to the better
class of the inhabitants, but are low, ignorant, and superstitious.
The place is, however, thriving, and promises to possess, in time, a
considerable trade. Many Americans have settled in it, and some of them
have well furnished shops: but a bookseller who set up a shop there met
with no encouragement whatever, and was obliged to leave.
In front of the house of the former governor, which stands in a
pleasant open spot near the river, are some ancient shady trees, and a
garden, containing many rare and beautiful plants, is attached to it;
formerly it was kept in good order, but it is now sadly neglected and
suffered to run to ruin.[137]
We put up, in Vincennes, at Clarke's Hotel, where the stages start
from; and I intended to proceed on my journey the following day, but
the landlord and postmaster declared, rather laconically, that I must
wait for the next opportunity, because our baggage was too heavy. This
caused a delay of two days, which I endeavoured, in Mr. Lesueur's
company, to turn to the best {481} account. Mr. Badolet, of Geneva,
who has long resided at this place, and is thoroughly acquainted with
the country, was unfortunately indisposed.[138] He takes much interest
in the promotion of knowledge, and through his instrumentality a
library has been formed, which, though still in its infancy, consists
of about 1500 volumes. New books are added every year, and there are
already some valuable works. Mr. Badolet likewise purchased the well
preserved lower jaw of a mastodon, which was found in the White River.
Mr. Lesueur made a drawing of this jawbone, which is deposited in the
library. Another interesting character lives here, but forgotten,
neglected, and in great poverty--I mean Colonel Vigo, who rendered
important services to the Americans at the capture of Vincennes. They,
indeed, gave him the rank of colonel, but suffer him to starve.[139]
In our excursions in the vicinity of this place we found many
interesting plants. Mr. Bodmer took a view of Vincennes from the top of
Warrior's Hill; while Mr. Lesueur visited the Indian barrows, of which
there are several in the plain, and which the French settlers call
_mamelon_.[140] One of these hills was examined on a former occasion,
and an excavation made through a wolf's den on one side of it, but
nothing was taken from it but white clay; without doubt the examination
must have been superficial.
On the 13th of June we parted from our friend, Mr. Lesueur, and left
Vincennes by the stage. We first passed through a tract of alternate
meadows and thickets, and then, for a couple of miles, through the
unbroken forests which characterize Indiana. After proceeding thirteen
miles we came to a solitary post-house in the wood, where breakfast
was ready, and of which we partook while they were changing horses.
We then crossed in a ferry, an arm of White River, which runs between
picturesque wooded banks. The roads were bad; decayed trunks of trees
were constantly in the way; the ground broken and uneven; and our
stage, drawn by four very spirited horses, sustained many a violent
jolt. We came to Washington and Mount Pleasant,[141] where the farmers
were cultivating their fields, in which isolated trees were frequently
seen, but which afforded no shade from the sultry sun, for they were
all destroyed by the fire. They are cut down, from time to time, when
the people are in want of timber; and, as a sign that they are to be
felled in the next winter, a circular ring is hewn into the bark. It
is said to be very difficult to cultivate the land in Indiana, on
account of the extremely vigorous vegetation. Except in the vicinity
of the Wabash and the White River, it is, however, not so fertile as
in Illinois, where, in the environs of Springfield, for instance, it
is scarcely necessary to do more than hoe the ground, in order to
obtain the finest crops. An acre of land there yields from sixty to
eighty bushels of maize, and fifty bushels of wheat. The effects of
the frost were everywhere visible on the trees: it had caused much
damage, and killed all the fruit for this year. The fruits of the field
were about as forward as they would be on the Rhine at this season. In
the plantations there were great numbers of oxen, horses, sheep, and
swine, the former of which were particularly large and handsome. At
Mount Pleasant we {482} found in the inn a good many books lying about;
among them were some geographical works. From this place we descended
an eminence to the bank of the second arm of the White River, which
flows through fine forests. The water was transparent, and the banks
steep. Being set over with a ferry, we came to a tall, gloomy forest,
consisting almost wholly of large beech trees, which afforded a most
refreshing shade. The forest continued without intermission, but the
beeches were soon succeeded by other species of trees indigenous to
this country. We passed the most elevated part of the road through the
picturesque forest scenes, where the lofty crowns of the trees shut out
the sky from our view. They were the most splendid forests I had yet
seen in North America. In the evening we stopped, twenty-three miles
from Mount Pleasant, at a capital inn, called Horsit, surrounded with
farm buildings in good condition. We were quite astonished at meeting,
in this lone, wild, sequestered spot, with such a respectable house
and table; everything was particularly neat and comfortable. Early
on the morning of the 14th we set out again. About six miles further
on, is the little town of Paoli, in a calcareous spot, where pieces
of limestone everywhere stand out. We then proceeded by the side of
Litcreek, some miles from whence the stage stopped, and the passengers
breakfasted at the house of Chambers, a Quaker.[142] We were told that
this part of the country is very salubrious, and the air extremely
pure, but it takes strangers some time to get accustomed to the water,
which is impregnated with lime. We saw numbers of horses in the
forest, but the breed is not so good in Indiana as in other states. At
Greenville, a small village, was a large concourse of the neighbouring
farmers, whose horses and vehicles were tied to the fences. They had
come to take part in the election of some magistrate. The heat was
excessive, and the dust very troublesome. Several parties of farmers
were in the public-houses, where a rude, noisy crowd were drinking
whisky and playing at various games. We soon reached the summit
of the calcareous chain of hills, which we had ascended gradually
and imperceptibly, and approached the southern declivity, where an
extensive and magnificent prospect opened before us. The wide valley,
or, rather, the vast plain of the Ohio, suddenly unfolds itself to the
eye of the astonished traveller. As far as the eye can reach, a dense,
uninterrupted forest covers the country, and the beauteous river, like
a streak of silver, meanders through the landscape. In the distance lie
the red masses of the houses of the towns of Louisville and New Albany,
which extend on both sides of the Ohio. We soon passed the slope of the
chain, and drove rapidly through a highly cultivated country to New
Albany, on the banks of the river.[143]
I did not stop at New Albany, where there had lately been several cases
of cholera, but proceeded to Louisville, where we soon arrived, and
embarked the same evening, on board the Paul Jones steamer. In this
town, too, there had been some cases of cholera, but the people did
not seem to be afraid of that disorder. After proceeding about thirty
miles up the Ohio, some accident happened to our engine, and we were
obliged to lay-to. On the following day, the 15th, the {483} forests
of the Ohio appeared in the luxuriant verdure of the varied foliage
of their lofty trees, among which the colossal planes were especially
conspicuous. Near Kentucky River our engine again broke; it was,
however, repaired, during the night, at Vevay.[144]
On the 16th we reached Rising Sun, saw Petersburg and Aurora, where the
United States mail steam-boat, the Franklin, passed rapidly by us, then
came to Lawrenceburg, and arrived about noon at Cincinnati.[145]
Cincinnati is a considerable town, and carries on an extensive trade,
and is frequented by numerous steam-boats, of which a considerable
number were now lying on the banks of the Ohio. Many travellers have
already described everything worthy of notice in this town, and I
will, therefore, only mention some establishments connected with
natural history, which we were now able to visit at our leisure, as
we were no longer apprehensive of the cholera. The Western Museum,
belonging to Mr. Dorfeuille, which Mrs. Trollope has described, is the
only one worthy of notice. I observed several interesting articles,
though all American establishments of this kind are calculated, not
for the advantage of science, but for pecuniary gain. This museum is
lighted up every evening at eight o'clock, and an indifferent concert
is performed, chiefly by Germans. In one of the rooms was a small
fountain, round which the visitors sat upon benches, gazing at it with
astonishment. The owner has a taste for the sciences, and would pay
greater attention to them, if he met with more encouragement to do so;
but his museum did not attract many visitors till he introduced, in
the upper rooms, an absurd representation of hell. Grottoes, in which
a number of frightful skeletons are moving about, and among whom the
devil acts a principal part; these, and other hideous scenes, attract
the vulgar multitude, and bring considerable profit. Mr. Dorfeuille
has, however, several interesting specimens, such as petrifactions,
fossil impressions, Indian antiquities, Mexican curiosities, and some
fragments of parchment with hieroglyphics painted on them; the best
of which, however, was at this time in the hands of Mr. Bullock, an
Englishman, who resides some miles from hence, and which I therefore
did not see.[146]
On examining the booksellers' shops, I found only some elegantly
bound works on the _belles lettres_, a few on the statistics of
different countries, but none relating to natural history, nor any
portraits or history of the too much neglected Indian nations. I
there formed several valuable acquaintances, among others, Dr. Daniel
Drake, who is well known as an author, and whose work, "The Picture
of Cincinnati," and other essays, prove that he has not neglected the
study of nature.[147] I met with many old acquaintances, among others,
Mr. Richard Owen, of New Harmony;[148] and in all my excursions saw
great numbers of Germans, of whom it is estimated that 10,000 reside
here. German is everywhere spoken. German peasants arrived continually,
and traversed the streets, but most of them are of the lowest and
most uneducated class, and are not calculated to give the Americans a
favourable impression of our nation.
Instead of going immediately into the country, and hiring themselves
to the farmers, in order to learn the nature of the agriculture
{484} of this country, they loiter about the town, where they fall
into the hands of abandoned countrymen of their own, squander the
little property they have brought with them, and are then despised
by the inhabitants. At present, however, there are many respectable
and intelligent Germans here, who have already contributed to give
the Americans a more favourable opinion of our people. Some of these
estimable men have conceived the laudable plan of establishing a
society for the protection and settlement of their countrymen, which
will certainly prove highly useful.
On the 19th of June I left this town on board the United States
mail-boat, Guyandotte, and proceeded up the Ohio. The Lady Scott
steamer set out at the same time with us, but our steamer soon left her
far behind. As slavery is abolished in the state of Ohio, the crew of
our vessel were nearly all white men. There are three such mail-boats,
which have to forward the despatches of the government, but they
perform this office only occasionally, because they receive only five
dollars each time. The most rapid vessels are chosen for this service;
they have the words, "United States Mail," painted on their paddle-box.
About noon, on the 20th of June, we lay-to at Portsmouth,[149] above
the mouth of the Sciotto River, and I landed at this place, intending
to proceed on the Ohio Canal.
FOOTNOTES:
[93] For the Little Platte, see our volume xiv, p. 174, note 141.
Independence is noted in our volume xix, p. 189, note 34 (Gregg). As it
was situated three miles from the river, both Wayne City and Blue Mills
contended for the business of the landing place. Portage l'Independence
was at the former, or even higher up the river--possibly cutting off
the bend wherein the Kansas River enters, since Maximilian does not
speak of passing that stream.
The person whom Maximilian met was Milton G. Sublette (for whom see
Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 67, note 44). He went out with
the Wyeth expedition in the spring of 1834, but because of illness
turned back (May 8) near the Kansas River, and had just arrived at
Independence Portage when the prince's vessel came down the Missouri.
William L. Sublette, the chief partner of Sublette and Campbell, had
led out a party to the mountains which passed Wyeth's about May 12. See
Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 151; and "Correspondence
and Journals of Captain Nathaniel J. Wyeth," in _Sources for the
History of Oregon_ (Eugene, Oregon, 1899), pp. 132, 221, 224.--ED.
[94] The "Oto" (Otto), built at Jeffersonville, Indiana (1831), was
Sublette and Campbell's steamer, which visited the upper Missouri in
1833. Somewhere on the upper river Sublette sent the boat back, and
proceeded by keelboat to Fort Union. Probably the steamer had wintered
near Council Bluffs.--ED.
[95] For Liberty, see our volume xxii, p. 249, note 197. Williams's
Ferry was at the present site of Missouri City; the settlement had been
begun by Shrewsbury Williams shortly before Maximilian's visit, and was
incorporated as a city in 1859.
"Charaton Scatty" is the phonetic spelling of "Charretins écartés," two
creeks separated by a short distance. Lewis and Clark, in _Original
Journals_, i, p. 57, give the name as "Sharriton Carta."--ED.
[96] The knowledge of naturalists respecting reptiles or amphibia has
been increased in a surprising manner of late years. The work now
publishing by Messrs. Duméril and Bibron, promises to be the most
complete on the subject. A vast number of species has been found,
some of which are hardly capable of being sufficiently defined: thus,
the authors of the above-mentioned excellent work seemed to have
proceeded, in some cases, rather hastily. I will mention only one or
two instances: vol. v., p. 88, I find in the synopsis, "_Tupinambis
monitor_, Maxim., Prince of Wied;" whereas I never thought of calling
the lizard in question _Tupinambis_. Vol. iii., p. 80, _Alligator
sclerops_, and page 86 the same, where I am quoted in reference to
two species of crocodile, though it is very certain that I could not
observe in Brazil more than one species. In these two descriptions
there is much confusion; and in this respect we must also not follow
Spix, who considered the varieties of age as distinct species. I could
quote many other instances, if this were a proper place for such
discussion.
In the work of Messrs. Duméril and Bibron there are likewise many
mistakes with respect to the Brazilian reptiles described by me; and
it seems that the authors, like many other French naturalists, quote
my descriptions of those animals without having read or even seen
them, otherwise they would certainly have preferred my statement of
the colour of the animals from the life, to a description of the faded
specimens preserved in spirits, which are met with in the museums;
or to the equally incorrect statements of Dr. Spix, who, it is well
known, forgot to note the colour of the animals when alive, and whose
representations of them are likewise from specimens preserved in
spirits.--MAXIMILIAN.
[97] For Thomas L. McKenney, see our volume xxii, p. 29, note 3.--ED.
[98] See our volume v, p. 280, note 157.--ED.
[99] For a contemporary description of the troubles with the Mormons
in Jackson County, Missouri, see Gregg's _Commerce of the Prairies_,
in our volume xx, pp. 93-99. Gregg's point of view is that of a
sympathizer with the Missouri backwoodsman; Maximilian's is that
of the doctrinaire. For a recent historical description of these
events, consult W. A. Linn, _Story of the Mormons_ (New York, 1902),
pp. 161-207; see also J. H. Kennedy, _Early Days of Mormonism_ (New
York, 1888); and Thomas Gregg, _Prophet of Palmyra_ (New York, 1890),
pp. 127-148. The Mormon point of view is presented in B. H. Roberts,
_Missouri Persecutions_ (Salt Lake City, 1900). A conflict between
two such differing classes as the Missouri pioneers and the Mormon
emigrants was inevitable, and it was fortunate that there was so little
consequent bloodshed.--ED.
[100] On the psychology of the Mormon movement, and the origin of the
Book of Mormon, see J. W. Riley, _Founder of Mormonism_ (New York,
1902).--ED.
[101] For these geographical place-names, see our volume xxii, pp. 247,
248, notes 192, 194, respectively.--ED.
[102] Robidoux had formerly been in charge of an American Fur Company's
post higher up the river. In 1826 he was transferred to the trading
house at Blacksnake Hills, where he was a salaried employé until the
purchase here narrated by Maximilian. See _History of Buchanan County_,
Missouri (St. Joseph, 1881), pp. 391-396.--ED.
[103] For Grand River, see our volume xv, p. 178, note 62.--ED.
[104] See, for this point, our volume xiv, p. 162, note 127.--ED.
[105] Old Franklin and the town of Boonville, on the opposite bank, are
noted in our volumes xix, p. 188, note 33 (Gregg), and xxi, p. 89, note
59 (Wyeth), respectively.--ED.
[106] Columbia, the seat of the state university, is described in our
volume xxi, p. 133, note 8 (Townsend); Jefferson City, the capital, in
volume xxii, p. 242, note 183.
Marion, on the southern (not northern) bank of the Missouri, is a
village in Cole County, in a township of the same name. It was platted
at Moniteau Rock, below a creek of the same name, and at first was
county seat for Cole. Defeated in the contest for the state capital,
the town lost also the court-house, which was removed (1826) to
Jefferson City. The place was incorporated in 1837, but has never
attained prominence.--ED.
[107] Major Josiah Ramsey, Jr., was one of the first two settlers of
Jefferson City, of which he was appointed trustee in 1825.--ED.
[108] Côte sans Dessein is noted in our volume v, p. 48, note 20.
For Gasconade River, see our volume xiv, pp. 136, 137. Portland, in
Auxvusse Township, Callaway County, was laid out in September, 1831. It
no longer exists as a separate village.--ED.
[109] Berger Creek is a small Franklin County stream, flowing into the
Missouri from the southwest.
Washington (Missouri) was settled some time prior to 1818, and
incorporated in 1841. The first brick house was built in 1834. It is
the largest town in Franklin County, and originally had a considerable
German element among the population.--ED.
[110] Gottfried Duden was a young German physician, who, after a
journey to the United States and a residence of several years (1824-27)
in Montgomery (now Warren County, Missouri), wrote a book relating
his experiences. His work was much read, and as he gave a pleasant
picture of life in the interior of North America, it induced a large
emigration, especially from southwest Germany and along the upper
Rhine. Many of these emigrants were of the educated classes, and have
been valuable citizens to Missouri. See Duden, _Bericht über eine
Reise nach den westlichen Staaten Nordamerika's und einen mehrjährigen
Aufenthalt am Missouri_ (Elberfelt, 1829); several later editions
followed.--ED.
[111] For St. Charles, see our volume v, p. 39, note 9. This was
originally a settlement of French inhabitants, but during the decade of
1830-40 German immigration flowed in so rapidly that both the township
and county of St. Charles have a majority of settlers of German
descent.--ED.
[112] See our volume xv, p. 173. The theory there advanced is, that the
land between the Mississippi and Missouri "would appear rather to have
subsided from the waters of a quiet ocean than to have been brought
down from above."--ED.
[113] A brief sketch of Daniel Lamont is in our volume xxii, p. 314,
note 274. General William Clark made his home in St. Louis after his
Western expedition (1804-06), and died there in 1838. See our volume v,
p. 254, note 143, for a brief sketch of his career.--ED.
[114] See our volume xxii, p. 32, note 9; also Smithsonian Institution
_Report_, 1885, part ii.--ED.
[115] Cahokia Creek is a small stream in St. Clair County, Illinois. It
formerly discharged into the Missouri at the French village of the same
name; but its channel is now changed, so that its mouth is some miles
above. For the tradition that this change was of artificial origin
caused by a habitant who attempted to injure the village, see Flagg's
_Far West_, in our volume xxvii, chapter xli.--ED.
[116] The Trappist order and monastery are described in much detail
by Flagg in his _Far West_, published in volume xxvi of our series,
chapter xv. Consult this account, with accompanying notes.--ED.
[117] For recent government work on this subject, consult Lucien Carr,
in Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1891; Cyrus Thomas, in United
States Bureau of Ethnology _Report_, 1890-91; and also Flagg, _op.
cit._--ED.
[118] For von Humboldt, consult our volume xviii, p. 345, note 136;
Warden is noted in volume xxii, p. 149, note 63.--ED.
[119] See design in Plate 81, in the accompanying atlas, our volume
xxv. See also our volume xxii, pp. 174, 175.--ED.
[120] Peter Simon Pallas (1741-1811) was born in Berlin, but early
invited to Russia to assume charge of scientific explorations in
that empire. His _Bemerkungen auf einer Reise durch die südlichen
Statthalterschafter des russischen Reichs_ was published in
1799-1801.--ED.
[121] For a brief sketch of this naturalist, whom Maximilian visited at
New Harmony, see our volume xiv, p. 40, note 1.--ED.
[122] Albert Gallatin (1761-1849), a Swiss emigrant, whose services as
United States statesman in finance and diplomacy were considerable,
devoted the latter portion of his career to scientific pursuits,
especially to the subject of North American ethnology. Maximilian
here refers to his well-known "Synopsis of Indian Tribes of North
America," published in American Antiquarian Society _Transactions_,
ii (Cambridge, 1836). The reference to the bison appears on pp. 139,
140, wherein Gallatin claims to have had upon his farm in western
Pennsylvania a mixed-breed ox of the domestic cattle and bison
stock.--ED.
[123] The "Metamore" steamer was built at Louisville in 1832. For these
St. Louisians, see our volume xxii, pp. 235, 282, 314, notes 168, 239,
274, respectively.--ED.
[124] The "Boone's Lick" was built at Pittsburg in 1833; she was when
built one of the largest of the river boats, being of two hundred and
ninety-five tons displacement.--ED.
[125] The "Mediterranean" and "Chester" were both built at Pittsburg in
1832; the former, of six hundred tons burden, exceeded any other river
craft by nearly two hundred tons.--ED.
[126] See Plate 7, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
[127] For Maximilian's earlier visit to New Harmony, see our volume
xxii, pp. 163-197.--ED.
[128] Robert Dale Owen (1801-77) was the son of the founder of the
New Harmony community. Born in Glasgow, he was educated largely in
Switzerland, and came to the United States with his father in 1825.
After the failure of the community, the younger Owen conducted a
journal in New York for some years; but, having married, he returned
to New Harmony about the time of Maximilian's visit, to make this
his permanent home. He was influential in Indiana politics, serving
in the State legislature (1835-41), two terms representing his state
in Congress (1843-47), and materially assisting in the revision of
the Indiana constitution in 1850. In 1853 he was appointed chargé
d'affaires at Naples, being later raised to ministerial rank (1855-58).
Owen was a radical in religion and politics, and to spread his opinions
wrote many books. His argument for immediate emancipation is said to
have had much weight with Lincoln.--ED.
[129] William A. Twigg, son of a clergyman of the Church of England,
was one of the original members of the New Harmony community; his
descendants still live in the region. See George B. Lockwood, _New
Harmony Communities_ (Marion, Indiana, 1902).
Alexander Maclure, brother of William, one of the founders of the New
Harmony settlement, was the person Maximilian here intends. He lived
for many years at this place.--ED.
[130] For Mrs. Trollope and her notes on America, see our volume xxi,
p. 44, note 24 (Wyeth).--ED.
[131] Owensville, in Gibson County, was laid out in 1817 and named for
Thomas Owens of Kentucky. John C. Warrick was the first merchant and
postmaster. By 1900 the town had attained a population of 1,019.--ED.
[132] For Volney, see Flint's _Letters_, in our volume ix, p. 237, note
121.--ED.
[133] For a brief notice of Princeton, Indiana, see Hulme's _Journal_,
in our volume x, p. 46, note 16.--ED.
[134] White River rises near the Ohio line, and flows southwest across
Indiana into the Wabash, embouching between Knox and Gibson counties.
It is the largest stream wholly within the state, and waters a fertile,
well-wooded valley of about nine thousand square miles.--ED.
[135] For an historical sketch of Vincennes, see Croghan's _Journals_,
in our volume i, p. 141, note 113. Warrior's Hill was called by the
Americans under George Rogers Clark (1779), Warrior's Island, since
they had, upon the expedition against Vincennes, been wading through a
submerged district, and found this grove of oaks the first considerable
spot of dry land on which to encamp. It was situated immediately
northeast of Grand Morass Pond, in full view of Vincennes. See
Thwaites, _How George Rogers Clark won the Northwest_; for a detailed
account, consult C. W. Butterfield, _George Rogers Clark's Conquest
of the Illinois and the Wabash Towns_, 1778 and 1779 (Columbus, Ohio,
1904), pp. 323-326, 711.--ED.
[136] François Margane, sieur de Vincennes, is frequently confused
with his uncle, Jean Baptiste Bissot, also sieur de Vincennes. Both
commanded for the French among the Miami Indians, but the younger built
(probably in 1727) the fort at the site called by his name. He was
born in Canada in 1672, succeeded to his uncle's estate in 1719, and
about the same time came to the Wabash. His death occurred during the
Chickasaw campaign (1736); while leading the Miami contingent he was
captured and burned at the stake. The town of Vincennes was frequently
called "O Post," a corruption of the French form "Au poste."--ED.
[137] The residence of General William Henry Harrison, first governor
of Indiana Territory, still stands in the northwestern portion of
the town, at the intersection of Water and Scott streets. It was the
earliest brick mansion in this section of the country, and was begun in
1805 on the plantation that Harrison had bought the previous year, and
named "Grouseland." At this place occurred the famous interview between
its owner and Tecumseh, the Indian chief who was afterwards vanquished
in the battle of Tippecanoe (1811). Upon Harrison's departure for North
Bend, Grouseland became the residence of his son, John Cleve Symmes
Harrison, whose wife was the only child of General Zebulon M. Pike. The
gardens were long noted for their beauty.--ED.
[138] Jean Badollet, born in Geneva, Switzerland, in 1758, was the son
of a Protestant minister. He was a college friend of Albert Gallatin,
and at his request immigrated in 1785 to the United States. Taking
charge of a colonizing project in southwestern Pennsylvania, he for
some years acted as Gallatin's business manager. Upon the organization
of Indiana Territory, Badollet was appointed register of the land
office, removing to Vincennes, which he thereafter made his home. He
retained his office until 1836, when his son was appointed in his
stead. Badollet served as a member of the constitutional convention of
Indiana in 1816 and strongly opposed the introduction of slavery into
the new state. His latter years were clouded because of poor health,
and he died in 1837.--ED.
[139] For a brief sketch of Vigo, see André Michaux's _Travels_, in our
volume iii, p. 31, note 8.--ED.
[140] The highest Indian mounds of the state are found in the vicinity
of Vincennes. For a critical discussion, see E. T. Cox, "Archæology,"
in Indiana Historical Society _Publications_, i, pp. 217-240.--ED.
[141] For Washington, Indiana, see Faux's _Journal_, in our volume xi,
p. 203, note 68.
Mount Pleasant was a post village on the Vincennes-New Albany turnpike,
thirty-five miles east of the old capital. It was the seat for Martin
County until 1846; but being avoided by the railroad, has declined in
importance, having now no post-office.--ED.
[142] The turnpike road being followed by the travellers crossed
Daviess, Martin and Orange counties, substantially along the line of
the present Ohio and Mississippi Railway.
For Paoli, see Welby's _English Settlements_, in our volume xii, p.
230, note 37.
"Litcreek" is Lick Creek, a small westward-flowing affluent of the East
Fork of White River, in Orange and Martin counties, Indiana.
For Samuel Chambers, see Hulme's _Journal_, in our volume x, p. 62,
note 29.--ED.
[143] Greenville is a small post village in Floyd County, Indiana,
twelve miles northwest of New Albany; in 1900 it had a population of
three hundred.
For New Albany, consult Hulme's _Journal_, in our volume x, p. 44, note
15.--ED.
[144] For the Swiss settlement of southeastern Indiana, of which Vevay
was the capital, see our volume v, p. 316, note 164.--ED.
[145] Rising Sun, of Ohio County, Indiana, thirty-five miles southwest
of Cincinnati, was platted (1814) by John James, an emigrant from
Maryland. Its population in 1900 was 1,548.
Aurora, in Dearborn County, four miles below Lawrenceburgh, was laid
out in 1819, and incorporated three years later. At the time of
Maximilian's visit the population was about six hundred; by 1900 it had
increased to 3,645.
Petersburg was a small hamlet three miles below Aurora; it never
attained commercial prosperity.
For Lawrenceburgh, see our volume xiii, p. 62, note 36.--ED.
[146] See Mrs. Trollope's description in _Domestic Manners of
Americans_ (London 1832), pp. 68-70.
For William Bullock, whose residence was at Hygeia, near Covington,
Kentucky, see our volume xix, preface.--ED.
[147] For a brief sketch of Dr. Drake, see Nuttall's _Journal_, in our
volume xiii p. 61, note 35.--ED.
[148] Richard, a younger son of Robert Owen, was born at New Lanark,
Scotland, in 1810. He was educated chiefly in Switzerland, and came
to New Harmony (1828) fresh from his literary studies. His tastes
inclining to scientific pursuits, he was associated with his brother,
David Dale, in several geological surveys, among them an exploration
(1849) of Lake Superior. He engaged in the Mexican War with the rank of
captain, and in the War of Secession held an Indiana colonelcy. Upon
the death of his brother (1860), Richard Owen was appointed Indiana
state geologist, and for fifteen years thereafter held the chair of
natural science in the state university, publishing a _Key to the
Geology of the Globe_. Upon retirement from professional duties, Owen
returned to New Harmony, where he occupied the Rapp mansion until his
death in 1890.--ED.
[149] For a sketch of the history of Portsmouth, see Nuttall's
_Journal_, in our volume xiii, p. 59, note 31.--ED.