RETURN FROM FORT CLARKE TO THE CANTONMENT OF LEAVENWORTH, FROM APRIL
18TH TO MAY 18TH
Violent Storms and Bad Weather--Arikkara Villages--Meeting with
two Fur Boats--Fort Pièrre, and our Stay there--The Mauvaises
Terres--Sioux Agency--Cedar Island--Punca Island--Melone's
Insubordination--Meeting with Punca Indians--L'Eau qui
Court--Meeting with the Assiniboin Steamer--Melone's Mutiny
and Punishment--Gardner as Pilot--Council Bluffs--Visit to
Major Pilcher's Trading House--Belle Vue--Beauty of the
Environs--Caterpillars--Nishnebotteneh--Roubedoux House on
the Black Snake Hills--The Otos and Missouris--Village of the
Kickapoos--The Cantonment of Leavenworth--Stay there--Dr.
Fellowes.
Spring had but partially clothed the surrounding prairies with new
verdure, even the willow bushes, which are generally the most forward,
had scarcely assumed a slight tint of green; and, though some solitary
ducks appeared as heralds of the fine season, the chilly temperature
reminded us that winter was still lingering. On the 18th, we lay to on
the right bank, on the other side of Goose-egg Lake,[53] and, on the
following morning, encountered a very violent storm, and I discovered
that my pretty prairie fox had escaped during the night, a loss which
I the more regretted, as this rare animal has, probably, never been
brought alive to Europe, whither I had fondly hoped to carry it. We had
now made all our arrangements for the voyage, and my people had taken
their respective posts. Our steersman, Fecteau, was very unskilful, and
our three rowers, Melone, an American from the lower Missouri (whose
real character we did not learn till some time after), Bourgua, a
Canadian, and an old Pole, who had roamed half the world over, but was
still the most industrious of the whole, all proved very indifferent
workmen. Having partaken of our breakfast which was prepared on the
shore, we passed the Butte Carrée[54] at seven o'clock; here we saw a
troop of twelve elks, and many white cranes, swans, wild geese, and
ducks of various species. At twelve o'clock we reached Heart River,
where we found great numbers of wild geese. Our thermometer stood at
61°. At three o'clock we stopped at Picotte's winter post {453} among
the Yanktonans, to which we had so often sent from Fort Clarke for
supplies of meat, &c., but the house was now deserted.[55] In the
neighbourhood is a pond, to which our hunters immediately bent their
steps, to shoot water-fowl. In the vicinity they saw prairie hens,
woodpeckers, thrushes, turkey-buzzards, and birds of prey, also a
couple of swans, one of which they wounded, but did not succeed in
securing, and brought back only a few ducks. In the evening twilight,
when we were about to lay-to, a troop of ten or twelve elks came
down to the river to drink, but one of my people, firing his piece
prematurely, frightened them away, and we thus lost our chance of
taking one of these large animals. During the night a tremendous storm
of rain came from the north; on the 20th of April the whole country
was covered with snow, and at nine in the morning the thermometer had
fallen to 35°. The storm obliged us to remain at the spot where we had
passed the night, and my people, who always lighted a fire on shore,
found but slight protection from the storm among the willow bushes. The
thermometer, at noon, was at 41°. The hunters had seen some game, but
shot only a prairie hen, which had a strong taste of garlic, the chief
food of this, bird. The snow ceased to fall at about four o'clock; the
night was cold, and the men who slept near the fire were aroused by
some wild animal, which made them conjecture that Indians were near, on
which Chardon, who had lived many years among the Osages, set a watch
for the rest of the night.
On the 21st we passed the mouth of Cannonball River.[56] The hills
were sprinkled with snow, and not a vestige of verdure was to be seen,
though, the preceding day, the willows and rose-bushes had a tinge of
green. Our hunters again set out on an excursion towards a neighbouring
lake, where they saw many cranes and water-fowl, but shot only a few
ducks. Some cabris crossed the river right in front of us, but, in
spite of the exertions of our rowers, we could not overtake them. We
were equally unsuccessful with a herd of buffalo cows and some bulls.
The following day was again so stormy that we were not able to proceed
on our voyage, and the wind threatened to rend our leathern tent on
deck; the country was covered with snow: towards evening the wind
abated, the night was pleasant, and the next morning opened upon us
calm and cheerful. The poplar and other thickets were beginning to bud,
and some of the willow bushes were quite green. Cabris were seen in the
prairie, vultures in the air, and pigeons on the bank.
At noon we reached the abandoned Arikkara villages, and landed a little
further down.[57] While our dinner was preparing, Mr. Bodmer and
Chardon, well armed, made an excursion to the forsaken Indian huts,
in order to procure for me some skulls and prairie bulbs. They found
the graves partly turned up by the wolves, and the bodies pulled out,
wrapped in their blankets and robes. They brought two well preserved
male skulls, which I added to my collection; one of these is now in
the anatomical museum of the university of Bonn, and the other in
the collection of Mr. Blumenbach at Göttingen.[58] At half-past four
o'clock, when we had proceeded about ten miles from the villages, and
were opposite the mouth of the Grand River,[59] we {454} were again
visited by so heavy a storm, that we were compelled to lay-to, and
light a fire for our people to warm themselves. While here, a couple
of flocks of more than 160 pelicans passed over us in their way up
the river, but we did not succeed in obtaining any of these fine
birds. Towards evening the storm and rain, mingled with snow, were so
extremely violent, that our boat was driven by the waves against the
stones on the bank, and became leaky. Our people on shore found no
protection under their blankets; they were kept awake throughout the
night, and were frequently obliged to bale the water out of the boat.
Towards midnight there was a frost, and on the morning of the 24th the
country was again covered with snow. Our effects, which had, in the
first instance, been completely soaked by the water, were frozen quite
stiff. At eight o'clock the thermometer was at 33°, with a northwest
wind. We saw a good deal of game, and Dreidoppel wounded, at a great
distance, a cabri, in the midst of a troop of eighteen or twenty of
those animals, but unfortunately brought us back nothing but a prairie
dog. In the evening we lay-to at a steep bank opposite the mouth of
Little Chayenne River.[60]
Early in the morning of the 25th we perceived a couple of fires burning
on the bank, which must have been just left by some persons, and
shortly afterwards we saw, in our van, two leather boats, which we
succeeded in overtaking in about an hour's time. The people had halted
to make a fire, and I therefore stopped to hold some conversation with
them. They were Picotte's men, among whom were Ortubize, with his
family, and Papin the hunter, returning to Fort Pièrre from the winter
post, with the furs which had been obtained during that season. While
we were conversing with them, Dreidoppel collected prairie bulbs.
Papin gave me a part of a cabri; and the clerk who directed the boat,
and whose name was likewise Papin, gave me a beautiful swan, but the
large wing feathers were unhappily pulled out. The weather being very
warm and fine, we rested here till eleven o'clock, and I then received
into my boat a couple of women and a man named Crenier, who had been
severely wounded. We passed the mouth of Big Chayenne River, and halted
in the evening fifteen or twenty miles above Fort Pièrre. The heavily
laden leathern boats having likewise come up, and set up their tents
on the bank, we bivouacked together, and supped magnificently upon our
roasted swan.
About two o'clock of the afternoon of the following day (the 26th),
after our boat had several times run aground, we reached the
landing-place at Fort Pièrre. Here there was still snow in the ravines
of the mountains, and the bushes were but just beginning to bud.
Several Sioux Indians, who were on the bank, shook hands with us.
Mr. Laidlow, with some clerks of the Company, came to meet us, and
conducted us to the fort, amidst a salute of several cannon-shot.
Fort Pièrre was in excellent condition.[61] The whole surrounding plain
was covered with scattered tents of the Sioux, mostly of the Teton
branch, and a few Yanktonans. Mr. Laidlow very kindly accommodated
us, and assigned to us a spacious dwelling: I caused my boat to be
{455} unladen, as it was hinted that the vicinity of the half-starved
Indians might prove dangerous to my bears. We found Fort Pièrre in
great want of fresh provisions, no buffaloes having been seen during
the whole winter, and the inmates of the fort, as well as the Indians,
being very numerous. I could easily have taken on board, at Fort
Clarke, a considerable cargo of maize for Fort Pièrre, but we had not
been informed that there was any scarcity existing here. For his own
table, consisting of ten or twelve persons, Mr. Laidlow had generally
bought dogs of the Indians, but these were now scarce, and consequently
very dear: twelve dollars were paid for the dog destined for our
repast to-day. There were, however, many superior provisions in the
fort, which we enjoyed at Mr. Laidlow's table, after having long been
deprived of them: one of these luxuries was new wheaten bread, and
there were also potatoes, cabbages, carrots, several kinds of preserves
and pickles, as well as coffee, sugar, tea, &c. I found here, also, a
part of my stock of provisions which I had brought from St. Louis last
year, such as coffee, sugar, brandy, candles, &c., which would have
been invaluable to me at Fort Clarke. The brandy had, however, been
almost exhausted, and the cask filled up with water.
We were soon invited, with Messrs. Laidlow, Chardon, Papin, and the old
interpreter, Dorion,[62] to the tent of one of the Sioux. After we had
taken our seats on a new blanket ornamented with porcupine quills, the
flesh of a dog was taken from the kettle, and handed to the company.
It was very fat, about the colour of mutton, but the taste was really
so excellent, that we speedily surmounted our prejudice and antipathy.
Other Indians continued coming in, and, ranging themselves in a circle,
commenced smoking, but they suddenly started up, and left the tent. Mr.
Laidlow received as a present the robe upon which he had sat. Before
we commenced our meal, the host made a formal address to his visitors,
in which he spoke of his attachment to the Whites, for which Mr.
Laidlow returned thanks through the interpreter. We went back to Mr.
Laidlow, where another fat roasted dog was served up. Mr. Laidlow's
spacious sitting apartment was filled the whole day with a large party
of Indians, whose chief motive for coming was to see us. Among them
was our old acquaintance, Wah-Menitu,[63] who was rejoiced to see us
again. Generally speaking, it was not Mr. Laidlow's custom to admit the
Indians into his own room.
A high wind prevailed throughout the day, and my people slept on
board the boat. The two bears, which were brought into the fort,
attracted great attention from the Indians, many of whom were
constantly assembled about the animals to look at them. The prairie in
the environs of the fort was already green, and several small early
plants were in flower. I much regretted that I could not remain long
enough to visit the interesting tract of the Mauvaises Terres, which
is some days' journey from hence. Mr. Laidlow, who had been there in
the winter, gave me a description of it. It is two days' journey,
he said, southwest of Fort Pièrre, and forms, in the level prairie,
an accumulation of hills of most remarkable forms, looking like
fortresses, churches, villages and ruins, and doubtless consisting
of the same sand-stone as the conformations near the Stone Walls. He
further stated that the bighorn abounds in that tract.[64]
{456} On the 27th of April I visited the stores of the Fur Company,
which contained goods to the amount of 80,000 dollars. In the afternoon
some hunters arrived, with twenty horses, who had been absent about
three weeks on a buffalo chase, but returned with only one horse-load
of meat. From their appearance I should certainly have taken them for
savages. In the afternoon I took a walk in the prairie, though my
strength was not fully restored, and the sight of the verdant plain
was most refreshing to my mind. No birds were to be seen except the
starling (_Sturnella ludoviciana_), which enlivened me with its short
whistling note. Below the ridge which bounds the low bank of the river,
the wild plum was covered with its snowy blossoms, which appear at
the same time with the leaves; the scent is exactly like that of the
flowers of our blackthorn. A small pink flower of the class _Tetra
dynamia_ covered the prairie. The beautiful yellow blossom of the
_Hyerochloa fragrans_ was likewise open. The Indian horses, which graze
here, had now abundance of food, and quickly recovered from the effects
of their fast in the severe winter. I visited the tents of the Indians,
of whom, at least, fifty had gone away this morning on account of the
scarceness of provisions. I was much struck with the difference of the
physiognomy of the Sioux, after living so long among other tribes.
Their features are much less agreeable, the cheek-bones more prominent,
and their stature is lower and less vigorous than that of the Mandans,
Manitaries, Arikkaras, and Crows. On the other hand, the expression
of their countenances is more frank and good-tempered than that of
those tribes. By way of comparison, I subjoin a woodcut of the Little
Soldier, our former travelling companion, who, at this time, was absent
on an expedition.[65]
{457} Mr. Bodmer took several views of the country, and also made a
sketch of the stage of a distinguished Sioux warrior, whose remains had
been brought from a great distance with much pomp, and were covered
with red cloth. Groups of Sioux were in the vicinity.[66] My people
erected a new awning with large tent coverings for our voyage down the
river; and I received, by the kind care of Mr. Laidlow, many fresh
provisions of different kinds, which greatly contributed to the perfect
re-establishment of my health. On the 29th Mr. Laidlow sent some men
with pack-horses, under the direction of La Chapelle the interpreter,
to Fort Clarke, in order to obtain a supply of maize from Mr. Kipp.
A heavy storm, accompanied with rain, retarded our departure for some
hours, but towards evening the weather improved, and about six o'clock
I was able to take leave of Mr. Laidlow and the inmates of the fort.
The crew of my Mackinaw boat now consisted of ten persons, for I had
obtained an able rower, named Dauphin, from Carondelet, near St. Louis,
who was, at the same time, a better steersman than Fecteau. A man named
Descoteaux,[67] who intended to sell his beaver skins, of which he
possessed about 200, in the United States, requested me to give him a
passage, in return for which he promised to work. I likewise took on
board a sickly young man, who was too weak for the service of the Fur
Company.
We glided rapidly down the Missouri, and soon passed the mouth of Teton
River, which is about two miles and three quarters distant from Fort
Pièrre in a south-easterly direction. At this place, Messrs. Soublette
and Campbell, the opponents of the American Fur Company, had built a
fort, at which I was not able to stop.[68] We lay-to, at night, about
six miles from Fort Pièrre.
On the 30th of April we had a heavy rain throughout the day, so that
the poor men at the oars were wet through. Descoteaux, who had remained
behind, and had run along the banks through the whole night in order to
overtake us, made his appearance at eight o'clock, thoroughly soaked.
The weather was so very unfavourable on this day that we found it
necessary to stop repeatedly and kindle a fire, that the people might
dry and warm themselves. We therefore lay-to a good deal earlier than
usual in the evening, near a very fine wild forest of old red cedars a
foot and a half in diameter. In the evening the rain ceased, and the
night was calm. On the morning of the 1st of May the weather was very
cool: at about six o'clock we reached the Big Bend, where Dreidoppel
and Dauphin landed to seek for game, while the boat made the great
_détour_ on the river.[69] They found a number of impressions of shells
on the burnt hills, and saw a large village of prairie dogs, one of
which they shot; in the dry bed of a stream they found several tents
of the Sioux, the inmates of which met them on horseback, and had
some amicable conversation with them. At noon the weather was warm,
the thermometer being at 64°, and at three o'clock we arrived at
Sioux Agency, the post of Major Bean.[70] Here we found Cephir, the
interpreter, and three white men, who were suffering greatly from want
of provisions. No buffalo herds {458} had been seen here during the
winter, and the men had lived on salt pork and the flesh of the cabri.
The Sioux constantly pursue this animal, and on our arrival sent one
to the fort. They were impatiently expecting the Company's steam-boat,
with which Major Bean was to return. Thirteen Sioux tents were at this
time near the fort; others had been here waiting for the steamer, but
the want of provisions had forced them to disperse. It was not long
before we received a visit in our boat from Wahktageli, whose portrait
Mr. Bodmer had before taken, and who now repeated the assurance of
his great attachment to the white men. We took advantage of the fine
evening to prosecute our voyage, and then lay-to on the north bank.
Dreidoppel had shot a duck, and several good-sized catfish were caught.
The croaking of the frogs and howling of the wolves were our vesper
song.
The following morning (2nd of May) was very cool, and a thick fog hung
over the river. We soon passed the mouth of White River, but the wind
becoming too high compelled us to lay-to on the south bank, where the
waves drove the boat with such violence against the rocky bank, that
it sprung a leak, and let in much water. We found it necessary to cut
down a couple of trees, and fasten the boat to them, in order to make
it more steady. Meantime we made an excursion to the ravines and hills.
Cactus and yucca grew here in abundance, and some plants of the prairie
were already in flower; and on the banks of the stream the young
foliage was partly eaten away, which was said to have been done by the
porcupines. We found prints of the footsteps of some game, and, in the
dry bed of a brook, traces of the musk-rat, one of which Mr. Bodmer had
killed. We likewise saw some black-tailed deer, and small hares (_Lepus
Americanus_), the beautiful yellow-headed oriole, the sparrow-hawk, the
turkey-buzzard, and several other kinds of birds. We left this place
about noon on the 3rd of May, but made little progress on account of
the storm and rain, and lay-to in the evening on the north bank, not
quite a mile beyond Bijoux Hills.[71] The storm became very violent
during the night; most of the people slept on land, as they were afraid
that a tree which was standing very obliquely might give way to the
storm and fall on our boat: nothing but the state of weakness, caused
by my illness, could have made me so indifferent to this danger that
I did not attempt to avoid it. The tree, however, did not fall. The
wind abated towards the morning, and was succeeded by such torrents of
rain, that on the following day (the 4th) we saw the water pour down
from the left bank like cascades, the greater part of the neighbouring
prairie being overflowed. Opposite to Bijoux Hills we were for a long
time aground on a sand bank. Here we saw the first swallows returning
to the north for the summer. In the afternoon we reached Cedar Island,
and, proceeding a little further, lay-to for the night on the north
bank.[72] Vegetation was pretty forward; but no birds had yet come;
only the woodpecker and titmouse, which brave the winter, were to be
seen. On the 5th, the wind being favourable, a sail was hoisted, but
at eight o'clock the wind increased so much that we were obliged to
stop at a large and beautiful island (Punca Island), where, having
secured the boat, {459} we dispersed in search of game. When I returned
to the boat I learned that Dauphin had killed an elk calf, and most
of my people had gone with him to the place where the animal lay, in
order to secure the prize. We waited an hour and a half by the fire
till they returned, when I wished immediately to proceed on our voyage;
but Melone, one of my rowers, stepped forward, and positively declared
that he would not go on board till he had had his fill of the venison,
though he had taken a sufficient portion of meat in the morning. A
violent altercation ensued; the obstinate fellow was compelled to go
on board; but I was now aware of the character of this troublesome
American, who was so much addicted to drinking that it was necessary
to keep a watchful eye over him. We proceeded through the channel near
the island, but at the further end the wind suddenly caught the vessel,
so that it was quite unmanageable, and the sail was rent. We crossed
over to the south bank, and lay-to near an extensive thicket of willow.
It was so full of climbing plants and trees, that we could scarcely
penetrate into it, and tracks of wild animals were everywhere to be
seen. All the birds had sought refuge from the storm in the thickest
recesses of the wood, and scarcely a living creature was visible. We
here found, as on our first visit, the beautiful _Sylvia coronata_
(Latham), and shot a turkey-buzzard, the crop of which Fecteau took
out, affirming that it was an effectual remedy for the bite of venomous
serpents. Towards five o'clock, as the storm abated, we proceeded on
our voyage, passed the mouth of Punca River, and soon after sunset
came to three tents of the Punca Indians on the south bank, where the
trader, Dixon, with several _engagés_ from Fort Pièrre, was at that
time residing. Primeau, the Punca interpreter, who, in the preceding
year, when on board the steam-boat, had communicated to me some words
of the Punca language, was also with these people.[73]
We were informed that the Fur Company's steamer was near at hand, on
its way up the river, intelligence which was very agreeable to me.
The Punca Indians whom we saw here had a miserable, dirty appearance,
and they, too, had suffered from want of provisions. They had their
hair cut short in the nape of the neck and across the forehead. Their
leather tents, some of which were painted, stood on a narrow green
plain at the foot of steep hills, where the wood had been felled and
burnt. I here procured the skin of a skunk, which differed from all
the animals of this kind that I had hitherto seen. It was all over of
a blackish-brown colour, with only a small white stripe on the upper
part of the neck. From this place I crossed the river, and we kindled
our fire in the willow thicket before the steep rocky hills. This
place was directly opposite the mouth of L'Eau qui Court. At daybreak
on the following morning (the 6th of May) we heard the note of the
wild turkey, but did not stop. A large flock of pelicans flew up the
Missouri, and numbers of blackbirds were on the banks. We passed
Rivière à Manuel,[74] and towards eleven o'clock saw the Assiniboin
steamer, which lay still on the north bank for want of water. We were
hindered by the sand banks and the high wind from getting up to the
Assiniboin, {460} and therefore lay-to on the south bank, directly
opposite. At this place there was a dense thicket of willows, and
behind it an extensive forest. The woodcutters of the steam-boat
happened to be engaged in felling wood, under the direction of a
clerk, about a mile higher up, and, having observed our fire, came
to us towards noon. A boat was afterwards sent to fetch them, which
brought me a note from Captain Bennet, commander of the Assiniboin,
in which he invited me to make haste to come on board, as they were
impatient to see me again, after so long an absence. Captain Bennet
also sent a number of men to row my boat across the stormy river, and
with their aid we reached the Assiniboin at noon. We were received with
much joy by our former travelling companions, Messrs. Sanford, Bean,
Bennet, &c., and our accounts and news from the upper Missouri filled
up a good part of the day. We also found on board our Indian friend,
Schudegacheh, the Punca chief, who was extremely glad to see me again.
There was likewise another chief, and several Indians. Schudegacheh's
dress was remarkably handsome. His shirt was of beautiful otter skin,
with a red cloth collar: he wore a cap of otter skin, and a tobacco
pouch of the same material. This dress was extremely becoming to this
fine man. The other chief wore a robe painted with red figures. They
had a long conference with their agent, Major Bean, after which they
took off all their clothes, and laid them on the ground before him,
as a present, so that they sat quite naked, except the breechcloth.
Major Bean at first declined accepting these things, but Schudegacheh
would not take back his otter garment. The village of these Indians,
consisting of nearly 100 tents, was about four days' journey up L'Eau
qui Court.[75]
After spending the afternoon and evening on board the steamer, we took
leave of our friends, and returned to our boat, intending to proceed
early on the following morning; but, to my no small vexation, I found
my people in a very excited state, and partly drunk; Dauphin alone
seemed to know what he was about.
On the following morning (the 7th of May), Fecteau, Descoteaux, and
Melone were still intoxicated, so that our departure was delayed, and
I had to bear the noise and disorderly conduct of these men. We got
over a dangerous place, where there were many snags; passed, at eleven
o'clock, the mouth of the Rivière à Jacques, and then, the wind being
very high, lay-to on the right bank.[76] My hunters went to a lake,
about a mile off, in the hope of shooting some water-fowl, but did not
succeed. I made my way, through the willow thicket, to the extensive
verdant prairie, where a red fox sprang up before me. I saw many
birds of various kinds--swallows, woodpeckers, finches, sylvias, and
a couple of falcons (_Falco cyaneus_, Cuiv.); likewise butterflies,
among which, _Papilio plexippus_, and many _Libellalœ_, in very warm
places, sheltered from the wind. When I returned to the fire, I found
my people asleep on the grass, in consequence of their excesses on the
preceding day: Melone, however, was busy in bringing his trunk and
other things from the boat to the land; after which he stepped forward
and declared that "he {461} would not go any further with us, and that
his comrades, the other rowers, had agreed with him to leave us;" so
that we Europeans would have been left alone in this wilderness. The
news of this plot, arranged by the men in their drunken fit, during
my absence yesterday, surprised me not a little. I called the other
people, and asked them if this was really their intention; but they had
now thought better of it, and protested that they would not leave us.
Melone, enraged at their want of resolution, broke out into violent
abuse; so I told him that, conformably to his wish, he might remain
here by himself. On this he suddenly changed his tone, spoke civilly,
and at length begged for a passage to his native place, Liberty; but
I kept him to his word: we went on board, and left him alone in this
wilderness. This evil-disposed man, who had formerly been a soldier in
the service of the United States, and was much addicted to drinking,
had exchanged his rifle, on board the Assiniboin, for a considerable
quantity of provisions, a hatchet, brandy, &c., and thus sufficiently
proved his intention of leaving me in this shameful manner. As he
was skilful in the use of the hatchet, and had a sufficient stock of
provisions, it would be easy for him to make a boat of large poplar
stems, and reach the neighbouring post of Le Roi.
On this day we proceeded twelve or fifteen miles. The country was flat,
and the banks, in some parts, clothed with fine forests. At sunset
we lay-to at a convenient place on the right bank, where a narrow
strip of lofty, verdant wood filled the space between the river and
the steep white hills: there was an undergrowth of the red willow
(_Cornus sericea_), which was just coming into flower. The _Fringilla
Pennsylvanica_ was numerous, and fresh tracks of wild animals appeared
in all directions. At twilight a great many of the whip-poor-wills flew
round the fire within three paces of it, and quite stunned our ears by
their cries. A couple of them were shot, the first of these birds that
I had seen.
On the following morning (the 8th of May), we passed some extensive
sand banks, on which we observed the avoset, and many wild geese.
Towards ten o'clock we reached the mouth of Vermilion River,[77] where
many Sioux Indians were at that time assembled: here commence the lofty
forests, which are peculiar to the banks of the lower Missouri, and in
which the note of the whip-poor-will resounds in the evening.
I had been informed, on board the steamer, that a man named Gardner,
one of the best pilots on the whole course of the Missouri, and, at
the same time, thoroughly acquainted with the Indian wilderness from
his having been long engaged in hunting beavers, had gone down the
river a short time before me, and I was advised to overtake him, and,
if possible, to engage him as pilot, as our steersman was unskilful,
and the snags in many parts of the river very dangerous.[78] We soon
perceived Gardner's miserable flat leather boat, with a cargo of skins,
before us, and presently overtook it. I immediately offered to take his
furs into my boat, which was more secure, if he would act as steersman,
to which he most readily agreed. His boat was very unsafe and bad,
and at the same time was so heavily laden, that its edge was scarcely
above the water, {462} and it proceeded very slowly. He was on his
return from hunting beavers on the Upper Yellow Stone, and had two men
with him. We lay-to, and, while the people were transferring the cargo
of Gardner's boat to ours, we made an excursion into the interesting
country. The chain of hills was clothed with young verdure, and covered
and surrounded with tall trees and forests; beautiful thickets, mixed
with cedars, grew on the banks; all appeared in the fresh loveliness
of spring. In the hollow upper boughs of the lofty, colossal trees,
numbers of the purple swallow (_Hirundo purpurea_) had built their
nests; flocks of blackbirds were among the high grass, between the
trunks of the trees, where the little wren (_Troglodytes aedon_) poured
forth its cheerful song; the sparrow-hawk was sitting at the end of
a high branch; and on the ground, among the roots of the trees, we
descried what we thought was a mouse running along, which, however,
proved to be a little bird; it was too near to be fired at, and we
could not make it rise on its wing. At length, however, we killed
it, and found it to be the pretty little finch called, by Wilson,
_Fringilla candacuta_. The ash-grey finch (_Fringilla hyemalis_), the
snow-bird of Wilson, who represents this bird larger than it is in
nature, built its nest here.
Towards one o'clock in the afternoon we reached Le Roi's plantation,
and lay-to at the sand bank opposite to it, the wind being very high.
We dispersed in order to try our fortune with our fowling-pieces,
but found on the bank an intricate thicket full of burs, so that we
could scarcely penetrate it. Numbers of birds animated this thicket,
the cormorant (_Carbo_) sat on the tall trees on the bank, the
whip-poor-will uttered its plaintive note, and bats hovered over the
river. We passed the evening sitting round our fire, when Gardner told
us anecdotes of his many adventures and combats with the Indians.
He gave me a particular account of the death of Glass, the old
beaver-hunter whom I have already mentioned, and which particularly
interested me, because I possessed the scalp of one of the two Arikkara
Indians who were killed by Gardner on account of that murder. The
following were the circumstances of that event. Old Glass, with two
companions, had gone from Fort Cass to hunt beavers on the Yellow
Stone, and, as they were crossing the river on the ice further down,
they were all three shot, scalped, and plundered by a war party of
thirty Arikkaras who were concealed on the opposite bank. These
Indians, who are most dangerous enemies to the Whites, went then to
the sources of Powder River, and it happened that Gardner, with about
twenty men, and thirty horses, was in the neighbourhood.[79] As it was
dark when they were seated about several fires, the Indians suddenly
appeared, addressed them in the Manitari language, surrounded the
fire, and dried their shoes. Gardner, being well acquainted with the
character of the Indians, immediately took some precautions, which
was the more necessary, as a Manitari woman, who was with his party,
told him that the strangers were Arikkaras. He gradually collected
his people round one of their fires, with their arms in readiness to
act. He was also afraid for his horses, which were scattered in the
prairie, and some of which were actually missing, and he had already
sent some of his men to {463} erect in the neighbourhood what is
called a fort, of trunks of trees, for the night. The Indians are
accustomed, when they intend to steal horses, suddenly to give a
signal, on which they all jump up, scatter the horses, and drive them
away with them. Gardner, aware of this, watched the enemy closely,
and when, on the signal being given, they all withdrew, three of them
were seized, thrown down and bound. When the Arikkaras perceived this,
several of them came back, pretended to be innocent of the stealing
of the horses, and begged for their captive comrades; but Gardner
declared to them that, if they did not immediately deliver up all
the horses, the prisoners must die; one of whom, however, had cut the
cords with which he was bound, and escaped. The Indians entreated for
a long time, but were refused. The others seeing that they must die,
commenced their death-song, related their exploits, and affirmed that
they were distinguished warriors. One of them had old Glass's knife,
and his rifle also had been seen in the possession of these Indians.
The horses, however, were not brought, and the prisoners, alleging
a pressing necessity, were taken aside; but in the thick copse they
attempted to escape, on which one of them was stabbed, and several
shots fired at the other, who was then killed with the knife. They were
both scalped, and I received one of the scalps as a present, which
was unfortunately lost in the fire on board the steamer. Gardner, by
way of precaution, had all the fires put out, and passed the night in
the fort, which was now completed. They were not disturbed during the
night, and found, in the morning, that the Indians had retired with
their booty, leaving the prisoners to their fate. The Arikkaras had
begged for one of them in particular, who was a celebrated warrior, and
had even brought back three horses, which they tied up near at hand, to
exchange them for the prisoners; but Gardner did not attend to their
request.
On the 9th of May we reached the mouth of Joway River, and at three in
the afternoon that of Big Sioux.[80] The heat was pretty considerable;
and we saw the great heron (_Ardea herodias_), and a flock of pelicans,
some of which were grey, go up the river. We then came to Floyd's
Grave, and at a bend in the river reached a spot, to the northwest of
which there was a village of the Omahas, of about fifty huts. I wished
much to visit these people, but we could not well stop, because our
provisions were getting low, and we had already lost too much time
through the continued storms. In the evening we stopped for the night
on the left bank opposite the mouth of Omai Creek.[81]
On the following morning the weather was fine and warm, the thermometer
at eight o'clock being at 72°. Wood-ducks in pairs, and flocks of wild
geese and pelicans, attracted our attention, till we reached, about ten
o'clock, the beautiful green hills of Waschinga-Saba's grave,[82] where
we saw some deer and wolves, and found the tracks of these animals
in all directions. The rising wind afterwards obliged us to lay-to,
because there was a very dangerous place, with many snags, just before
us; but when the wind abated Gardner steered my boat very skilfully
between the snags. About sunset we passed the mouth of Little Sioux
River, and lay-to three miles {464} below it, on the opposite bank. On
the 11th we were very frequently obliged to stop, and meanwhile amused
ourselves with looking at the beautiful birds in the thickets. At six
o'clock we reached Soldier's River, and lay-to in a safe bay on the
left bank. The weather was cool on the 12th. When we set out, one of
my hunters shot a cormorant with his rifle. At ten o'clock we passed
the ruins of the old fort of Council Bluffs, and in the afternoon
reached Boyer's Creek, just before which we saw the first plane tree
on the Missouri.[83] From this spot this species of tree becomes more
and more common as you descend the river, which is very winding. We
landed, between one and two o'clock, at Major Pilcher's trading house,
formerly belonging to Mr. Cabanné.[84]
Mr. Pilcher gave us a very cordial reception after so long an absence,
and we passed the whole day with him. A lawyer, of the name of
Randolph, was at this time here to investigate a criminal case which
had lately occurred; an _engagé_ had shot his comrade, as was supposed
in cold blood. There were not many Indians at the trading house at this
time; however, there were some Otos, Missouris, Omahas and a couple of
Joways, and Ongpa or Onpa-Tanga (the big elk), the principal chief of
the Omahas, was daily expected;[85] I would gladly have waited to see
him, had time permitted my doing so. Mr. Bodmer took the portraits of
an Omaha and an Oto Indian. These two tribes do not differ in their
manners, dress, and personal appearance. They wear their hair short,
nay, sometimes the head is completely shorn, except a tuft behind, and
in front; the upper part of the body naked, and strings of wampum in
their ears.
At this time there was more order and cleanliness in Mr. Pilcher's
house than during our former visit, and the store had been removed
into the upper floor. It contained a large quantity of skins, among
which were 24,000 musk-rats, which are sold at twenty-five cents a
piece. The packs of these latter were very regularly piled up in a
square. There was also a good stock of buffalo and beaver skins. Mr.
Pilcher presented me with a very beautiful skin of a large dark brown
wolf, which had been killed on the upper part of Boyer's Creek; it is,
however, not a species, only a variety.
After dinner I took an excursion to the neighbouring finely wooded
hills, which were now flourishing in the greatest luxuriance. Birds of
various kinds were very numerous in a beautiful gently sloping valley,
through which the Omahas pass when they go to their villages. Among the
many kinds of trees and shrubs, I observed cratægus, or pyrus, twenty
feet in height, covered with white blossoms, oaks, elms, &c. Near the
house very fine cattle were grazing, and numbers of swine, all of
which roamed at liberty in the woods. There are extensive plantations
of maize and fields of potatoes, and Mr. Pilcher was so good as to
furnish me with a supply of provisions from his store. This place had
likewise been visited by the cholera in the preceding summer, but it
had not carried off so many persons as at Dougherty's agency at Belle
Vue, because Mr. Pilcher had a better stock of medicines. At nightfall
we took leave of Mr. Pilcher, and went on board our boat, intending
to proceed early the next morning, the 13th of May. During the night
a dog stole a part of our stock of meat, the {465} door of the cabin
not having been very well secured. Towards eight o'clock we lay-to on
the right bank of the river, at a lovely verdant prairie covered with
thickets and tall insulated trees. There we found many beautiful birds;
among them were numbers of the red-breasted _Fringilla ludoviciana_; we
shot a good many of them, but they were so fat that we had considerable
difficulty in preserving the skins. We had a fruitless chase after some
wild turkeys. Towards noon we arrived at Belle Vue, Major Dougherty's
agency,[86] which is about thirty-four miles from Pilcher's trading
house, and lies at the foot of the wooded chain of hills on which Mr.
Pilcher's residence is situated. We landed, but unfortunately found
only a few _engagés_, for Major Dougherty was absent at St. Louis,
and was not expected to return till the middle of July. The majority
of the persons whom we had seen here on our first visit had died of
cholera, during the preceding summer, seven of ten persons having been
carried off in the short space of twenty-four hours. They had all been
buried by one man, who was now here, and who himself was ill when he
was obliged to perform this last office for the dead. The disease had,
however, quite passed away, and the fort was now healthy. The environs
of Belle Vue presented great attractions to the naturalist at this
season. The richly wooded hills, with their deep shady ravines and wild
glens, were animated by the cuckoo, and a number of splendid birds,
while innumerable bright winged butterflies fluttered about over the
strawberry blossoms, the magnificent azure phlox, and a variety of
other beautiful flowers.
After we had luxuriated in this romantic spot, we returned to take in
a stock of provisions, and, being refreshed by that great rarity, a
glass of new milk, we continued our journey. Towards noon we reached
the mouth of the river La Platte, which is about six miles distant from
Belle Vue. At sunset we passed Fife-Barrel Creek, and stopped opposite
an island of the same name on the right bank of the Missouri. As soon
as we landed I set out with my gun in my hand, and, passing through
a lofty avenue of willows, came to a narrow marsh, quite overgrown
with typha. The ground was swampy, but the raccoons had trod a regular
footpath. The morass was bounded by hills covered with trees and bushes
of the loveliest verdure, enlivened by the baltimore and the green
icteria. The latter incessantly poured forth its song, which contains
a strophe similar to that of the nightingale. It is remarkable that
the cheerfulness and activity of these birds increase greatly towards
evening. The whip-poor-wills were very numerous in the willow copse on
the bank, and in the evening twilight their notes resounded on every
side.
The morning of the 14th opened brightly upon us, and we set out early
and passed Weeping-water River, landing several times to pursue the
wild turkeys, whose note attracted us to their retreats.[87] We often
saw these proud birds in the lofty trees, perched up beyond the reach
of small shot. The most beautiful birds of this country select for
their resort the airy summits of the woods, especially of the fine
primeval forest on the bank, where we lay-to at ten o'clock. This
noble forest comprises all the varied trees of this climate, with an
undergrowth of prickly {466} ash, hazel-bushes, cornus, &c., entwined
with _Vitis hederacea_ and other parasitic plants. The stems are tall,
straight, and closely crowded together; many were lying on the ground
decayed, covered with moss and lichens, which frequently impeded our
progress. Here we soon shot a variety of birds, and saw some parrots,
which Gardner had already observed on Weeping-water River. In short we
might have found here ample employment for a long time. A particular
species of caterpillar abounded to such a degree in these forests, that
all the branches of the trees, especially the willows and poplars, were
thickly loaded with them. As soon as we entered the copses our clothes
were covered with these caterpillars and their webs. We lay-to for the
night about a mile below Little Nemawha Creek, where Dauphin caught a
catfish weighing 15 lbs.
On the 15th we were about five miles from our night's quarters to the
mouth of the Nishnebottoneh, which we reached at eight o'clock. In
the fine forest at this spot our hunters shot only one rabbit, and
wounded a deer, which we did not obtain. At noon we lay-to on the
right bank, Gardner having promised to look for some wild honey. I may
remark by the way, that though the bee was not known in America till
it was introduced by the Europeans, it is now spread over the whole
continent. The Indians are said to call it "the white man's fly." It is
now common far up the Missouri, where the honey is eagerly sought for
by both Whites and Indians, who cut it out of the hollow trunks of the
trees. The spot where we rested and prepared our dinner was below the
beautiful verdant wooded hills, and was shaded by high trees, inhabited
by the most brilliant birds, which afforded much sport to our hunters.
Along the bank and distant hills extended a splendid forest, through
which winded a solitary Indian path, where the grey squirrels were
very numerous. We found much recreation in this solitary wilderness,
but here, too, the caterpillars annoyed us greatly; they were of a
bluish-green colour, with a double row of green and yellow spots.
We afterwards passed the Grand Nemawha, and lay-to, for the night,
opposite Solomon's Island, six miles above Wolf River.[88]
On the 16th of May the river was covered with a thick fog, which
prevented our proceeding on our voyage as early as usual. At half-past
seven o'clock we were opposite the mouth of Wolf River, where we saw
a herd of six or seven deer, and lay-to at nine o'clock on the right
bank. The lofty forest here had a thick undergrowth of box-alder and
cornus, which was completely covered with caterpillars and their webs.
At noon we reached Nodaway River, and were charmed with the prospect of
the sublime forest scenery of the banks, and the picturesque islands in
this river.[89] Luxuriant woods appeared on every side, covered to the
summits of their highest branches with graceful light green climbing
plants, so that the trunks looked like verdant columns.
Their foliage was shining and juicy, like the whole of the luxuriant
vegetation that surrounded them. Even from our boat we could see, in
the dark forest, the scarlet plumage of the beautiful red tanagra,
which the French on the Mississippi call the pope, the splendid
cardinal, and the bright red baltimore. The meridian sun shed a
glorious effulgence over this magnificent scene; where, {467} however,
the red-bud, and the other early blossoming trees, had already lost
their flowers. Most of the trees of these forests on the lower
Missouri have not the beautiful large flowers common to those of
Brazil, but, with a few exceptions, have only catkins. For the first
time after a long interval we saw the kingfisher on the bank. Towards
four o'clock in the afternoon we reached the beautiful chain of the
Black Snake Hills, and, not long after, Roubedoux's trading house
in the neighbourhood of the Joways and Saukies, or Sacs.[90] The
forest-covered hills, as well as the prairie stretched at their foot,
were now adorned with the most lovely verdure. The two houses at this
spot were painted white, which, when seen from the river, gave them
a very picturesque appearance amid the surrounding green. Behind the
dwelling houses were extensive fields of maize, protected by fences,
and very fine cattle were grazing in the plain. Mr. Roubedoux, the
owner of the house, and his son, were from home, and some ignorant
_engagés_ could not comply with my desire to obtain fresh provisions,
and to pay a visit to the Indians in the vicinity, to accomplish
which I requested them to provide me with horses. About thirty Oto
and Missouri Indians had been here a couple of days, and had just
gone to the neighbouring Indians to purchase brandy. About six miles
from hence lies a village of the Joway Indians, and at about the same
distance down the Missouri, one of the Saukies. These Indians are able
to obtain as much brandy as they please at the extreme settlements of
the Americans, about fifteen miles from this place, who, at their own
risk, pass the limit of the Indian country, fixed by the government in
the latitude of the Cantonment of Leavenworth. This great facility of
procuring cheap and bad spirits is extremely ruinous to the Indians,
and accelerates the destruction of their race. We were dissuaded from
visiting these two Indian tribes, because they had, for several days,
been indulging in the immoderate use of whisky, and were in a dangerous
state of excitement. A great number of Oto Indians gradually assembled
near Roubedoux's house: many of them were quite intoxicated, and nearly
all had four or five casks of this fatal draught fastened to their
horses.
The Oto, Missouri, and Joway Indians, at least the young people, had
their hair shorn in the manner of the Saukies and Foxes: several,
however, especially the elder men, wore their hair short in the neck. I
saw one of the Missouris with his hair hanging half-way down his back.
Their dress and customs are said not to differ from the Saukies. They
had holes in their ears, in which they wore bunches of wampum: some
young men had red cloth tied round their heads, and one of them wore
a cap made of the entire skin of a bear's head, with the ears, which
gave him a very grotesque appearance. All these Indians were weaker,
and of lower stature, than those of the upper Missouri, especially the
Manitaries, Mandans, and Crows. The Otos and Missouris intended to go
to-day with their stock of whisky to their villages on the other side
of the river, and wished us to set them over, to which, however, I was
not disposed to accede. Mr. Bodmer took the portrait of an athletic
Missouri youth. This tribe was formerly numerous and {468} powerful,
but, being defeated by the Foxes, Saukies, and Osages, it lost its
independence, and the few that remain have intermingled with the Otos.
We made some little excursions in the neighbourhood, and found in the
prairie and the lofty trees many beautiful plants and fine birds; the
day was hot, and the evening remarkably pleasant; a numerous company
of Indians, who were not a little troublesome, visited us in our boat,
and stopped till ten o'clock. We left our night's quarters early on the
following day, the 17th, and proceeded down the river, the banks of
which were clothed with tall forests. The thermometer at noon was at
75°, but the wind was high, and compelled us to lay-to; we therefore
took advantage of the delay to go ashore, and make some addition to our
collection of plants and birds. About four in the afternoon, though the
wind was still high, we were enabled to pursue our course. We were not
long in making Cow Island, about nine miles from Leavenworth, where
a good deal of cattle belonging to the military post were grazing. A
little before sunset we came to the isolated dwelling of a white man,
and saw several Indians, there being a settlement of the Kickapoos, who
were removed from the eastern provinces, at a short distance from the
river. We lay-to for the night on the right bank, and several of my
people went on before us to Leavenworth. On the 18th, during a heavy
rain, we made the three miles to the post; we heard some musket-shot, a
signal that the guard was relieved, and soon reached the landing-place
of the Cantonment. The sentinel informed us that we must immediately
appear before the commanding officer, and compelled us, in an imperious
manner, to keep close and march before him. We arrived like prisoners
at the house of the commander, where Major Ryley received us with
tolerable politeness, and supplied me with the provisions, meat, bread,
&c., which I required, taking care, however, to be well paid for
them.[91]
The Cantonment of Leavenworth is pleasantly situated; ten or twelve
neat and spacious buildings, surrounded with a gallery or verandah, are
occupied by two companies of the 6th regiment, not more than eighty
men, with ten officers, who were detached from Jefferson Barracks, near
St. Louis. Dr. Fellowes, the military physician, who in the preceding
year travelled with us to this place, received me with much cordiality,
and gave me a good deal of information respecting this interesting
country. He had been very successful with his cholera patients, for,
out of a great number, one only had died, because he always attacked
the disorder at its very commencement.
The heavy rain had converted the surrounding country into a swamp, so
that we could not conveniently visit the environs of the Cantonment.
The soil is very fruitful, and the whole country clothed in rich
verdure. About four miles from this place, down the river, the Indian
line meets the Missouri at right angles; this is the frontier of the
Indian territory, which the Cantonment is destined to protect. Near
this post is the village of the Kickapoos, inhabited by a poor and
rather degenerated race. Major Morgan,[92] who kept a large store
of provisions and other {469} necessaries, had a share in Gardner's
fur trade; the latter accordingly quitted me at this place. To
celebrate his happy return the people drank rather too freely, and
were endeavouring to make Descoteaux do the same, in order to induce
him to sell his beaver skins below their value, but I would not suffer
this, and took him with me. The people here have a sufficient number
of cattle and swine, as well as plenty of milk, butter, and cheese. My
collections were here enriched with many interesting specimens. Dr.
Fellowes had the kindness to give me a goffer (a large field-mouse),
undoubtedly _Diplostoma bulbivorum_. Unfortunately the specimen was not
complete.
FOOTNOTES:
[53] Not the lake of that name noted in our volume xxii, p. 368, note
344, but one between Knife and Heart River, North Dakota.--ED.
[54] For the location of Butte Carré (Square Butte), see our volume
xxii, p. 340, note 312.--ED.
[55] This post was probably at or near Apple Creek, which by its
connection with the lakes east of the Missouri furnishes communication
with the upper James, the usual habitat of the Yanktonai.--ED.
[56] See our volume xxii, p. 338, note 306.--ED.
[57] For the site of these villages, see our volume xxii, p. 335, note
299.--ED.
[58] See our volume xxii, p. 173, note 87.--ED.
[59] Grand River, the Weterhoo of Lewis and Clark (_Original Journals_,
i, p. 183; vi, p. 49), rises near the sources of the Little Missouri in
northwestern South Dakota, and flows east into the Missouri in Boreman
County. It is a prairie stream paralleling Cannonball and Cheyenne
rivers, and largely destitute of timber.--ED.
[60] For this stream, see our volume xxii, p. 334, note 295.--ED.
[61] For Fort Pierre, see our volume xxii, p. 315, note 277.--ED.
[62] See, for this man, Bradbury's _Travels_, our volume v, p. 38, note
7.--ED.
[63] For the visit of this Teton Sioux, see our volume xxii, p.
329.--ED.
[64] This tract was the area later famous as the Bad Lands of White
River. Had Maximilian been able to visit this region, he might have
antedated the discoveries made by J. V. Hayden and F. B. Meek, which
awakened much interest in the scientific world. This area, extending
nearly five hundred miles in each direction, lies between Cheyenne and
White rivers east of the Black Hills. It is a tertiary formation of
indurated sands, clays, and marl, cut up into ravines and cañons by
streams and climatic action. In certain places it takes on the form of
a gigantic city in ruins. To the scientist, however, the chief interest
is its fossils, immense numbers of which are imbedded in the formation.
The first descriptive account was that of Dr. H. A. Prout, who visited
the region in 1847, given in the _American Journal of Science_, iii, 2d
series, pp. 248-250. Two years later, Dr. John Evans went through this
district, and the next year it was visited by Thaddeus A. Culbertson in
the interest of the Smithsonian Institution. A thorough examination was
made in 1853 by J. V. Hayden and F. B. Meek; the former passed through
again in 1857, the results being embodied in American Philosophical
Society _Transactions_, xii, new series (Phila., 1863). The fossil
remains were described by Professor Joseph Leidy in _Contributions to
Extinct Vertebræ Fauna_ (Washington, 1873). Hayden made still another
visit to this region in 1866, the results of which were published in
his _Geographical and Geological Survey of the Territories_. The White
River Bad Lands are still difficult of access, and not as yet visited
by tourists.--ED.
[65] See p. 59, for portrait of Little Soldier (Tukan Haton), a Sioux
chief. Consult also our volume xxii, pp. 311-313, for Maximilian's
relation of this chieftain's visit.--ED.
[66] See Plate 44, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv.--ED.
[67] In the early part of the nineteenth century there was a
free-trader of this name on Minnesota River, where he was later
murdered by his Indian wife. See _Henry-Thompson Journals_, p. 941.--ED.
[68] The opposition post had been built since our author ascended
the river. It was begun October 17, 1833, a "little below old Fort
Tecumseh." According to Maximilian it was directly at the mouth of
Teton River, probably in the northern angle. It was occupied only
about a year, then being sold with all its effects to the American Fur
Company. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, iii, p. 956.--ED.
[69] See our volume xxii, p. 313, note 272.--ED.
[70] For the agency and agent, see our volume xxii, p. 235, note 171,
and p. 304, note 261.--ED.
[71] For Bijoux Hills and White River, see our volume xxii, pp. 301,
302, notes 258, 259, respectively.--ED.
[72] For Little Cedar Island, see our volume xxii, p. 296, note 257.
Maximilian here intends the present island of that name.--ED.
[73] For Primeau and Ponca River, see our volume xxii, p. 286, note
248, and p. 291, note 253. The trader was William, half-breed son of
Colonel Robert Dickson, who had been agent for the British government
among the Northwestern Indians during the War of 1812-15. William's
mother was a Sioux, and he assisted his father during that war, being
still in the pay of that government in 1817; see _Wisconsin Historical
Collections_, xi, p. 350. By 1821 he was established in trade on Lake
Traverse, whence one of his letters (written in French) shows traces of
considerable education; _ibid._, x, p. 140. He accompanied a delegation
to Washington in 1824 as interpreter for the United States (consult
_Minnesota Historical Collections_, vi, p. 205), and two years later
was licensed as a trader. Some time before 1832, he crossed to the
Missouri River and entered the employ of the American Fur Company, for
whom he had a post called by his name, near the mouth of Petit Arc
Creek in South Dakota. There Larpenteur met him in 1838, and states
that he shortly after committed suicide. Compare also E. D. Neill,
_History of Minnesota_ (Minneapolis, 1882), p. 452.--ED.
[74] For Niobrara River (l'eau qui court), see our volume v, p. 90,
note 54. Emanuel Creek (Rivière à Manuel) is noted in volume xxii, p.
290, note 251.--ED.
[75] For the Ponca Indians, see our volume v, p. 96, note 63. When
Lewis and Clark ascended the river (1804) the village of this tribe
was on the stream called by their name, not on the Niobrara. The name
of the chief Schudegacheh signified Smoke, and Catlin speaks (_North
American Indians_, i, p. 212) of him as "a noble specimen of native
dignity and philosophy."--ED.
[76] For James River (à Jacques), see our volume xxii, p. 282, note
238.--ED.
[77] See our volume vi, p. 87, note 31.--ED.
[78] For this trapper, see our volume xxiii, p. 197, note 153.--ED.
[79] For the earlier adventures of Hugh Glass, see our volume xxii, p.
294, note 255. Powder River, called Red Stone by Lewis and Clark, is
the most easterly of the great southern affluents of the Yellowstone.
It rises in Central Wyoming, on the eastern slopes of the Big Horn
Mountains and south thereof, near the sources of the Big Cheyenne
and North Fork of Platte. The valley of Powder River was a favorite
rendezvous of trappers, for it afforded both game and pasturage in
abundance.--ED.
[80] For these streams, see our volumes xxii, p. 280, note 236; and vi,
p. 85, note 30, respectively.--ED.
[81] For Floyd's grave, see our volume v, p. 91, note 56. Omai is now
Omadi Creek, in Dakota County, Nebraska.--ED.
[82] See Plate 12, in the accompanying atlas, our volume xxv. For this
noted chief, known in English as Blackbird, see Bradbury's _Travels_,
our volume v, pp. 84-86.--ED.
[83] These are all three Iowa streams, the last two entering the
Missouri in Harrison County, and Boyer's in Pottawattamie County. See
our volume xxii, p. 275, note 231, for the fort at Council Bluffs.--ED.
[84] For Cabanné and his post, see our volume xxii, p. 271, note 226.
Cabanné had been obliged to return to St. Louis to defend himself
against the legal action of Le Clerc. See Chittenden, _Fur-Trade_, i,
pp. 346-350. A brief sketch of Joshua Pilcher is in our volume xiv, p.
269, note 193.--ED.
[85] For this chieftain, see our volume v, p. 90, note 52; also, our
volume xiv, pp. 258-262, where Big Elk holds council with the officers
of Long's expedition.--ED.
[86] For a brief history of Bellevue, see our volume xxii, p. 267, note
221.--ED.
[87] For the geographical places mentioned in this paragraph, see our
volume xxii, p. 264, note 217.--ED.
[88] For the rivers mentioned, see our volume vi, pp. 72, 73, notes 23,
24. Both Solomon's Island and Wolf Creek are mentioned by Lewis and
Clark (_Original Journals_, i, pp. 72, 73); the former has been swept
away by the river. For Wolf Creek, see our volume xiv, p. 181, note
150.--ED.
[89] Nodaway River is described in our volume v, p. 37, note 5.--ED.
[90] For this trader and his post, see our volume xxii, p. 257, note
210.--ED.
[91] See our volume xxii, p. 253, note 204, for the persons and places
mentioned in this paragraph.--ED.
[92] The eastern boundary of the Indian country, which was also the
western boundary of Missouri, consisted of a line running directly
north and south through the middle of the channel of the mouth of
Kansas River. In 1824 commissioners were appointed to survey the
western and southern line of Missouri, and in 1830 this was adopted as
the boundary of the Western Territory (see our volume xxi (Wyeth), p.
50, note 31). This boundary is, however, nearly thirty miles (by the
river) below Fort Leavenworth. Probably Maximilian confused this with
the boundary of Fort Leavenworth military reservation.
The treaty of 1832 with the Kickapoo tribe arranged for their removal
to a tract southwest of the Missouri, situated about Fort Leavenworth;
see _Indian Treaties_ (Washington, 1837), pp. 532-535.
Major Morgan was not the military officer who accompanied Long's
expedition, referred to by Maximilian, _ante_ (our volume xxii, p.
260). The one here mentioned was a trader and early settler near Fort
Leavenworth--probably Alexander G. Morgan, who in 1831 was postmaster
at the fort.--ED.