We could not boast of an opera, or any grand theatrical displays in
Mazatlan; but yet our sailor-troops, as sailors always do when
unemployed, had contrived a Thespian corps, and weekly representations
were given, by stout tars in whiskers and petticoats--and once a grand
tableau in commemoration of Stockton's victories at La Mesa. There was a
pretty theatre in town, where a little ranting was done, and there was
the usual Sunday resort in the cock-pit, where a deal of dollars changed
hands, but the greatest spectacle of any was in the arena, where we were
favored by brilliant feats of horsemanship, by Mr. Bill Foley, of Circo
Olimpico notoriety, in conjunction with his "ingin-rubber boy." He was a
useful, amusing vagabond, who had passed more than half his life in
Mexico, and went by the savage title of _El tigre del norte_. The Tiger,
upon the claims of national relationship, applied for the office of
collector to the port, but not being successful, he deigned to accept
the high position of forage master to the troop, but whether owing to
his prompt method of settling accounts, or the sphere not being
sufficiently enlarged for his abilities, he threw up the commission in
disgust, declaring his countrymen were the "ungratefullest people in the
world," and again devoted his talents to dress, love, monte, and the
arena. The last accounts of Bill, he was starring it away like a planet
in the interior of Chili. May bright dollars attend thee, Bill, in
whatsoever portion of the globe thy destiny directs thee.
Added to these public _divertmientos_, there were the _sociedads_, where
the necessary aliment of Mexican existence was in constant operation.
This was monte--our usual resort was that of the gran sociedad,
conducted by Don Manuel Carbia;--he was a diminutive old Spaniard, very
shrewd and intelligent, and among his numerous occupations was that of a
proprietor of launches, keeper of an almacen of ship chandlery on the
Mole, divers pulperias, billiard-tables, restaurateur, and pawnbroker in
general. Senor Carbo, as our beloved Colonel Jacobus called him, was
never seen without a cigar between his teeth; it acted as a kind of
safety valve to his vital organs, and it was strongly surmised that if
he ever discontinued, for an interval of five minutes, he would
inevitably choke to death. Seated behind the long green baize-covered
table, with his implements of cards and dollars around him, the very
chink of the coin lighted up his dark visage, like to a fresh cigar. He
merely played for amusement--so he said--and although he amused himself
considerably at our expense, yet we had no grounds for just complaint;
he played, _bueno como caballero_--fair and above board,--and if we lost
our cash, it was in striving to win his. Once if my memory serves me
aright, when mounted on the _caballo_--the picture of a horse on Spanish
cards--I kicked Don Manuel so severely, that his teeth chattered like a
pair of castanets--but this did not often occur.
There was another odd character, who kept a _casa de bebida_, near the
Cuartel, where the officers sometimes touched in passing. No one knew
what nation claimed him as a subject--he was a fat mottled-visaged
Boniface, whom the Mexicans--as they always nick-name every one--had
christened the "Golden Toad." The toad played melodiously on the flute,
supposed to be a mild restorative to soothe the sorrows consequent upon
the unfortunate state of his domestic relations.
The carnival was not carried on with much spirit, nor was Lent regarded
with the same pious severity as in other Catholic countries. The
Mazatlanese are not a pious people; there were, to be sure, a few
processions, and fire-works, accompanied by a wooden piece of artillery,
discharging salvos of sugar-plums, with nightly fandangos, but this was
all.
Our intercourse and diversions were not restricted to native society,
for we also enjoyed a pleasant association with foreign residents. The
circle of our own countrymen was limited--the Consul, good Doctor
Bevans--who gave us a grand feast on leaving,--and the Anglo-American
house of Mott & Talbot. From all of these gentlemen we experienced the
utmost civility; but to Mr. Mott and his amiable lady we stand indebted
for many and repeated acts of kindness and hospitality, that never can
be too gratefully remembered.
Not only in Mazatlan but all over the world, the great firm of "Mynheer
and Company" chase the dollars with as keen a scent as the Yankees; and
there is not a nook, however remote, where these thriving Germans are
not filling their sacks, but still their thirst for gold does not
prevent the pleasures of "faderland" from being re-enacted in their
far-away homes. There was one jolly Belgian there--a large, handsome,
jovial blade, ever on the vivo for fun or punch,--his house, like
himself, was lofty and capacious, with a cellar over the way, where one
might wish to live until it became dry. And the Hern Hutter, too. Will
eye of thine, my pleasant friends, ever glance at this tribute to your
virtues? Let us recall those delightful evenings. Old Jack's oysters,
and, mein gott! that delicious arrack--when shall we ever taste the like
again?--with the piano tinkling, and the rich sonorous voice of portly
Hausen chanting the solemn _ave purissima_ until the very paving-stones
rattled, and the lovely lips of his pretty wife were held in a painful
state of wide-mouthed laughter. Where art thou, O! Hern Hutter! dost
remember Piny and Luigi, even until the matins were tolling, when we
mounted our steeds--your own the famous piebald charger--and never
checked rein, until tumbling in the sparkling surf upon the sands?
Besides these warm-hearted fellows, there was another to whom my heart
still yearns, and no time can ever banish the love I bear him. He was
the beau-ideal of a John Bull--burly, surly, brave, obstinate, and
strong in his likings or dislikings. We met at first, neither in a
pleasant mood; I was the aggrieved person, for he permitted me to
mistake him for a Mexican, and talk bad Spanish half an hour, when he
coolly broke ground in Anglo-Saxon. But time removed first impressions,
and in his little cottage by the shore, at his generous board, and in
fact in very many ways he loaded me with favors and hospitalities, which
I shall always recur to as among my brightest recollections of the past.
And truly it is not in great cities, or teeming ports, where merchants
are seen to social advantage; it is in out-of-the-way spots--far, far
away--when least expected, that the traveller finds warm hearts and firm
friends--and none more so than in Mazatlan.
I was a daily guest of Don Guillermo's, at the cottage. Dinner over, and
a rubber at whist, I usually strolled about the town--peeped in at the
fandangos--perhaps a shy at monte--thence to arrack--music, jolly
Hausen, and so home to my quarters. Though a sort of vaut-rien
existence, still it was one quite in consonance with my tastes, and
since I am not at all competent for a clerkship, if any of my former
friends can employ me as a smuggler, or in any other nautical and honest
pursuit, I shall be most happy to comply with their terms.
For a short period, these my amusements were unpleasantly interrupted,
and came within an ace of being finally closed in eternity. Sitting one
night, in a moralizing mood, by my friend, Mr. Mitch, during a pause in
conversation, we were startled by the long rolling sound of the drums,
beating the alarm from the Cuartel. The sentries shouted from the walls,
for the men to get under arms, and snatching up hat and pistols, we
rushed out. The night was quite dark, with thick fog; besides, I was
nearly blinded from a lighted room; and mistaking the stairs by a few
inches, I walked off the piazza--a height of fourteen feet--falling,
most fortunately, between three men coming out from below, with fixed
bayonets, and escaped being impaled, by a slight wound in the wrist. I
was picked up insensible, and my companion thought even burnt brandy
would prove unavailing. However, on coming to, and being duly jerked
about the legs and arms, no bones being fractured, I was found whole,
with the exception of some severe contusions in legs, back and head.
After all the row, the _generale_ was only beaten by way of precaution.
For some days I was confined to my cot, without being able to move,
consoled, however, by lots of agreeable visitors--bottles of
liniment--good cigars--alleviated by the sympathies of an admirable
young nurse. There I was, reposing "in ordinary," swinging backwards and
forwards. From one window I could see green plains and lagoons
stretching away to the distant hills; and from the balconies, long
strings of mules, with their cargoes, and could hear the shrill whistles
and cries of the arrieros, urging the perverse brutes in either
direction. The borders, too, of the lagoons were dotted with groups of
women and children washing; and whenever I took a too long glance
through the telescope, at some brown half nude figure, I was sure to
attract the attention of my black-eyed nurse, who cunningly would place
her finger before the lens. I always chose the mornings to study or
write, when the clear, cool sea-breeze was beginning to fan the polished
surface of the water, as the swell rolled rippling on in gentle
undulations towards the beach--while swarms of pelicans sailed
sluggishly along, until sighting their prey, when, with a dart like a
flash, they parted the waves in concentric circles around, and rested
contentedly on the water, packing away the little fishes in their
capacious pouches. Then, if our little house-keeper was docile, and not
mimicking the Colonel, for she detested the sight of a book, I would
draw the table to my cot, and enjoy an hour's tranquillity. But when,
later in the day, the breeze began to roughen the sea into light caps of
foam, causing the waves to break heavily upon the shore, then the
windows began to struggle and slam, books and papers to whirl across the
room, until I was glad to put by everything, and say, _amigita
canta_--sing, my little friend. She would purse up her roguish lips in
mimic affectation, and then, in a lively strain, begin some provincial
ditty--
"En la Esquina de casa,
Un oficial mi hablo."
Yet there are no alleviations that can recompense a person of active
habits for being laid up, even in lavender. In a few days I was able to
sit a horse, and soon after, perfectly restored.
Thieving and pilfering were practised among the lower orders, in an
almost equal degree to knife combats. Leperos are thieves and liars by
profession, and their coarse serapas serves to conceal all their
peccadillos. The Spectator tells us, that in the days of Charles II, a
rascal of any eminence could not be found under forty. In Mazatlan they
were more precocious. Eating, sleeping and drinking, they could easily
dispense with, for a handful of beans and the open air was an economical
mode of life, and cost little or nothing: but a few rials were
absolutely indispensable to game with on feast days; and as the Leperos,
as a body, are not fond of work, they exercised their ingenuity in
appropriating property of others. I had escaped their depredations so
long, that I fancied there was nothing worth filching in my possession,
or innocently supposed there was some kind of freemasonry established
between us. However, I was soon undeceived. One morning, according to
custom, Miss Rita made her usual call, attended by some gay friends, and
all attired in their prettiest robes and ribosas:--"Would I read an
anonymous billet in verse?" _Si Senorita_. "You are appointed _Teniente
de la tripa_,"--a ball given annually by the butchers. "Then, would I
meet her at the grand fandango in the marisma?" Of course. "_Pues hasta
la noche amigo mio!_" and away they tripped down the hill in high glee.
In the evening after dinner at the cottage, in company with Senor
Molinero, we strolled to the fields. A large marquee had been erected in
the middle of the open space, and around were smaller affairs, with
numerous booths, sparkling with lights, music and merriment. It was not
a very select affair, and I took the precaution to loosen my sword in
its sheath. Presently we entered into the spirit of the frolic, and were
soon hand in hand with leperos and their sweethearts--sipping from every
cup--whirling away in waltzes--dancing to the quick _jarabie_, and
making ourselves particularly ridiculous when, presto! some expert thief
snatched my sword blade from the scabbard. Search was instantly made,
but the successful lepero made good his prize, and escaped. The girls
sympathized with me, and poor Rita cried, and, regardless of being
vice-queen of the ball, insisted upon leaving--so bounding up before me
on horseback, I landed her at her little cottage. The night was not half
spent, so turning rein, I indulged my friend Senor Carbia with a hasty
visit--not at all to his satisfaction, for the fickle goddess smiled
upon me; but as a slight check to this good fortune, another watchful
person had stolen a valuable pistol from my holsters while the horse was
standing in the patio, with a man to guard him. At the time I would
certainly have presented the ladron with my winnings for the pleasure of
giving him the contents from the remaining weapon; but eventually I
became more of a philosopher--was robbed at all times unmercifully, and
looked upon it as a destiny. One of our good commissaries was also a
sufferer. Being lodged in a small dwelling by himself, every few days he
was regularly cleaned out of his wardrobe, and frequently obliged to fly
trowserless to a neighbor's for a change of raiment. I once had the
happiness to detect a youth in a petty act of larceny. Him I had
carefully conveyed to the Garita, when the sailors made what they call a
"spread eagle" of him, over the long gun. It was a summary process, and
I sincerely believe, had a tendency to repress his rising predilections
for the future.