When the ground approaching the jump is uphill, or descending, the

same tactics should be pursued, and unlimited rein given the horse. On

encountering a drop on the far side of a fence or wall, a woman must

lean back as far as possible, leaving the reins long, but ready to

support the horse's head as he lands. At a trappy place, where, for

instance, there might be a broken-down fence among some trees,

overgrown with vines and bushes, the horse must be taken quietly and

slowly and made to crawl through the gap. His rider will even then

have enough trouble in keeping her feet clear of the vines, and in

preventing the branches from hitting her face, which she could not do

if a jump were made with a rush. If her horse carries his head high,

she can probably pass where it has been without injury by leaning

forward over his withers, to the right, and raising her right arm to

ward off the branches with her whip or crop.

[Sidenote: In-and-out]

Sometimes she will not notice a limb or other obstruction until almost

under it, when it will be necessary for her to lean back, resting her

shoulders on the horse's quarters. Under these circumstances it is

most important that her right arm should guard her eyes from pieces of

bark or other falling particles. Where two fences are within a few

feet of each other, forming an "in-and-out," the pace needs to be

carefully regulated. If the horse goes very fast, he will jump so wide

that he will land too close to the second fence to take off as he

should. Therefore if he is rushing, his stride must be shortened and

his hind-legs brought well under him.

On the other hand, he must not go so slowly that all impetus for the

second effort is lost, as he would then be likely to refuse. It is

difficult to turn him in so short a space and get him into his stride

before he is called upon to jump.

At a ditch or stream considerable speed is needed to gain the momentum

necessary to cover the distance, and the horse must have plenty of

rein given him.

[Sidenote: Picket and Slat Fences]

A picket fence is usually regarded as a very formidable obstacle, but

if negotiated properly it is no worse than others. It should be taken

at a good rate of speed, for the danger is that the horse will get

hung up on it and be cut with the points by not having enough impetus.

It is not so dangerous to hit this fence in front, for it is frail and

the top of the pickets will snap off at the binder if hit with force.

A slat fence is more to be dreaded, on account of the ledge on the top

of it formed by the binder. This should be taken with deliberation, as

the thing to be guarded against is having the horse hit his knees on

the ledge which protrudes a couple of inches beyond the fence. The

lower slats give way easily if they are approached from the side where

the posts are; if from the opposite direction, they are braced against

the posts and offer great resistance.

[Sidenote: Wire]

Any fence that has wire on it should be avoided if possible, unless

the horse has been trained to jump it. When it extends along the top

of a fence, the horse should be made to jump a post, as it is not safe

to count on his seeing the wire. If the fence is made of strands of

wire, with only a binder of timber, it should be taken slowly, so that

the horse will not attempt to crash through it, under the impression

that it is a single bar.

[Sidenote: Combined Obstacles]

A stone wall having a rail on top must be taken in the horse's stride,

for considerable swing is required, as there is width as well as

height to clear. When a ditch is on the near side of a wall or fence,

the horse should be allowed time to see it. When it is on the landing

side, he should be sent at it fast enough to carry him safely over.

Thus far I have been supposing that the horse has gone without a

mistake. Under these circumstances he should not be struck--just to

encourage him, as some maintain--or he will grow to dislike jumping if

associated with a blow.

No woman who rides much can expect to be always so perfectly mounted;

therefore, a few suggestions as to what she should do in emergencies

may be of practical value.

[Sidenote: Refusing]

[Sidenote: Timidity]

The most common fault of the jumper is refusing, and it must be dealt

with according to its cause. If it arises from weakness in the hocks,

the horse hesitating to propel himself by them, or from weak knees,

or corns that cause him to dread the concussion of landing, he should

not be forced to jump--it is both cruel and unsafe. If he be sound and

well, and the fence not beyond his capabilities, the rider must know

whether the disinclination to jump comes from timidity or from temper.

She will soon learn to distinguish between the two, but it is

difficult to lay down any rule for recognizing the difference. If she

thinks it is for the former reason, the cause may be that he was not

in his stride when he should have taken off, and was allowed to sprawl

as he cantered. She should take him back and keep him well collected,

making him take short, quick strides in the canter, measuring the

distance, and giving him his head when he should take off. If he seems

inclined to swerve or hesitate, the whip, applied just when he should

rise, will often prevent his stopping. When over, a caress and a word

of praise will greatly encourage him.

[Sidenote: Temper]

Temper is a very different and a very difficult thing to manage.

Coaxing and ingenuity may accomplish something; turning him short at

another place will often surprise him into jumping before he realizes

it. The human voice has great power over animals, and a few loud,

sharp exclamations, with a quick use of the whip, may make him take

off when otherwise he would have refused. A really obstinate horse,

having made up his mind not to jump, needs such a thrashing as a woman

is seldom able to give him. If she begins it, she must keep it up

until she has conquered him, or he will try the same trick constantly.

As a horse almost invariably turns to the left when he refuses, a

sharp crack on the near shoulder, being unusual and unexpected,

sometimes prevents his turning. When, in one way or another, he

finally has been forced to yield, he should be rewarded by a few words

of approval. At the next fence a firm hold, keeping his head straight

and his legs well under him, will be of more service than a whip,

unless he refuses again, when the lesson must be repeated.

[Sidenote: Rider at Fault]

At least half of the refusals are the fault of the rider, and it is

most unjust to punish a horse at such times. Unfortunately, conceit is

such a common failing that few of us are willing to acknowledge

ourselves in the wrong, therefore the poor horse suffers for our

error. The timid rider sends the horse at an obstacle in such a

half-hearted way that he does not know whether he is expected to jump

or not; or, feeling his rider waver, he imagines there must be unknown

dangers connected with the place, and so hesitates to encounter them.

One of a woman's frequent failings is shifting the reins as she nears

a jump. This form of nervousness is very disconcerting to a horse, and

takes his mind from the work in front of him.

Lack of skill makes one lug at a horse's mouth just as he is getting

ready to jump, thus throwing him out of his stride and frustrating his

effort. After one or two refusals, a woman often puts her horse at the

place in a mechanical way, fully expecting the animal to stop, and

doing nothing to guard against such an occurrence. If she would

instead then summon all her courage, and determine to go either over

or through the fence, and ride at it with resolution, the horse would

be infected with her spirit and probably clear the obstacle, as he

would have done at first had his rider's heart then been in the right

place. In such cases it does not seem fair to punish a horse for our

own want of nerve.

IX

LEAPING--(_Continued_)

[Sidenote: Rushers]

On a horse which rushes when put at a jump, the use of the whip will

only make matters worse. This habit of rushing comes most frequently

from the horse having been frightened while being taught to jump,

either by extreme harshness and punishment or from having hurt himself

severely. Even if it comes from viciousness, quiet, kind treatment

will do more to eradicate the tendency than coercive measures.

Such a horse should be walked towards a fence until within half a

dozen strides of it. This can best be achieved by not indicating that

he will be expected to jump, but by approaching it as though by

chance. Otherwise the restraint will make him the more unmanageable

when he does start. He should be induced to stand a few moments, while

his rider strokes him and talks to him in a soothing way. The snaffle

should then be gradually and quietly shortened until there is a light

but firm feeling on the reins, when a pressure of the leg (not of the

heel, which might suggest a spur) will put him to a trot. If the hands

be held low and steady and the voice be soft and pacifying, they will

probably prevail upon him to trot all the way, although he may break

into a canter a stride before the jump. When over it he should be

gently, not sharply, pulled up, and coaxed to walk again, or, better

still, to trot slowly. When he has learned to jump from the trot he

will soon do so from a slow canter, which will be more trying for him,

as it has a closer resemblance to the gait at which he has been in

the habit of rushing, and he will therefore be inclined to return to

his old failing.

[Sidenote: Balkers]

Sometimes a horse will not go near a fence, and on being urged will

back or rear. If he persists in backing, his head should be turned

away from the jump, and when he finds his movements only bring him

nearer the fence, he will stop. If then he is made to wheel suddenly,

and can be kept going by whip or spur, he will be likely to jump.

Should he, instead, face the direction in which he should go, and rear

whenever an attempt is made to urge him forward, the whip only

inciting him to rear higher, the woman who hopes to triumph over him

must resort to strategy; she must not whip him, at the risk of his

falling back on her.

A ruse which may prove successful is to occupy his attention by

playing with his mouth while he is allowed to go diagonally towards

the fence. He will be apt to concede this point, in the hope of

bolting alongside of it; but when he has been inveigled into a closer

proximity to the jump, even if he be parallel to it, and before he has

time to divine his rider's intention, he should be turned sharply to

the fence. He must be ridden at it resolutely and with a firm hand,

while a determined swing of the body, corresponding to his stride,

conveys to his mind the impression that he will be forced to jump. If

he can be kept moving forward, he cannot rear; therefore, should he

attempt to swerve or bolt, a blow from the whip will keep him

straight, and when he should take off, another will guard against a

refusal.

[Sidenote: Sluggards]

A sluggish animal calls for constant watching, as he cannot be

trusted at small places any more than at large ones. He is always

liable to rap, or even fall, at his fences, because of the careless,

slovenly manner in which he moves. He should be forced up to the bit,

and kept active by the whip, the noise of which is desirable in his

case, as it will assist in rousing him. If his laziness or sulkiness

is such that he will endeavor to crash through fences, he is not

suitable for any woman to ride. He may miscalculate his power and come

in contact with a rail which withstands his weight, when a fall will

ensue.

In this case the lunging-rein should be resorted to, and, either in a

ring or out-of-doors, the horse should be put over some stiff bars,

that he may learn he will be hurt if he touches them. I do not approve

of intentionally throwing him by pulling him in the jump; there are

too many chances of his being injured, even though he has no weight to

carry. The bars should be strong enough to sustain his weight, without

breaking, so that if he hits them hard he will have a tumble and a

lesson. The top bar should, if possible, be covered with straw, to

protect the knees from sharp edges. Some forcible raps and a few

tumbles will teach the horse the necessity of exerting himself, and

how to bend his knees and lift his hind-legs over a jump.

[Sidenote: Falls]

A fall is, at the best, a dangerous and often a disastrous affair for

a woman, whose very position on a horse lessens the chance of escape

from such a predicament without injury. A safety skirt will prevent

her being dragged; but much harm may result from the fall, even though

she be clear of the horse when he gets up. If she is not hurt, there

is still danger that the shock to her nerves will weaken her pluck.

Should such symptoms appear, she should remount at once; for the

longer she waits the greater will be her apprehension, and it might

end in her never regaining her nerve. She should make as light of the

casualty as possible, and not regard it seriously if she has been only

somewhat bruised or shaken up.

It is marvellous how many and what ugly falls one can encounter

without being any the worse for them; nevertheless, no precaution

should be neglected to prevent exposure to them. When a woman has

experienced several, she will know instinctively what to do; but at

first she should try to bear in mind some points which may help her on

such occasions.

A rider not accustomed to jumping will probably lose her seat if the

horse hits a fence with much force; as she feels herself going she

should try to grasp the animal's neck, and not attempt to keep on by

the aid of the reins, for by so doing she might throw him. Even if she

has gone farther than the saddle, if she can fling her weight, above

the waist, to the off side of the horse's neck, she will balance there

for a moment, and that will give her time to grasp the saddle and pull

herself back. Should she find herself beyond that, then as she slips

off she can keep her head from the ground by seizing hold of the

breast-plate with one hand, but without letting go of the reins.

These must always be retained, as their possession renders it

impossible for the horse to reach her with his heels, and precludes

the chance of his getting away.

If the horse bungles the jump, or comes down on his knees without

disturbing his rider's equilibrium, and seems likely to fall, a woman

cannot disentangle herself from him in time to get away. If he should

go down, therefore, she must sit evenly, leaning back, that her weight

may be taken from his fore-legs, while he is allowed plenty of rein.

He may thus regain his balance or his footing after a scramble; but it

will be impossible, in a slow fall like this, for a woman to be thrown

clear of him. As he will not roll immediately, the closer she sits the

better; so that if he tumbles on his near side, the force of the blow

will be broken by the pommels, which, if she be sitting close, will

hit the ground first, thus protecting her legs from the concussion.

Moreover, if she were half out of the saddle, the pommels might

strike her chest or crush a rib, and she would be more likely to be

kicked.

As the horse makes an effort to get up, she must be ready to extricate

herself from him and scramble as far away as possible, as the danger

then is that he will not regain his feet, but will sink down a second

time and thus roll over his prostrate rider.

If he should fall on his off side, a woman must strive to get clear on

that side as he lands, and not where the horse's feet are.

Where a ditch has caused a fall, it is usually from unsound banks;

therefore, in attempting to climb out, firmer ground should be chosen.

If the woman has been thrown and the horse has landed on top of her,

the ditch being deep or narrow, she must try to keep his head down

until help arrives, so that he cannot strike her, as he might do,

because of the limited space, in his struggles to get up.

In a stream, if she has preserved her seat, she must keep the horse

moving, or he will be inclined to lie down.

If she has been thrown into the water, she must obtain a hold on the

saddle and the reins, but use only the former to support herself until

the horse reaches the shore.

In all of these events a cool head and presence of mind will be of the

greatest assistance; but when a horse turns completely over at a

fence, or falls heavily and without warning, to drop her stirrup,

relax her muscles, and get clear of him as best she may is all a woman

can do.

Occasionally, after a number of jumps, the girths become loosened and

the saddle begins to turn. In such an emergency the horse's mane

should be firmly grasped and the foot taken out of the stirrup. The

horse should be quieted and stopped, if he is not too much startled by

the turning saddle. With a breast-plate it will probably not turn all

the way, and her hold of the mane will enable a woman to keep her head

up until some one comes to the rescue.

It will probably be a long time before such a variety of contingencies

as I have mentioned will happen to any one rider. A well-mounted woman

may jump a great deal and escape with only a few tumbles. If she

perseveres, there will be so many delightful experiences to

counterbalance each mishap that she will gladly risk the consequences

of indulging in a sport which, to so great an extent as leaping,

develops her nerve, skill, and self-possession.

X

RIDING TO HOUNDS

Whether hounds are running on the scent of a fox or a drag, a woman

who is following them should always remember certain points to guide

her in her conduct and in the management of her horse while in the

field.

[Sidenote: Courtesy]

Many a beginner renders herself objectionable by striving to take a

place among the hard riders of the first flight.

It is not to be expected that a woman without experience in the

hunting-field can keep up with those who have followed hounds for

several seasons; and should she attempt it, the probable result would

be a fall not only endangering herself and her horse, but compelling

some man to come to her assistance, and thereby perhaps lose the

remainder of the run. Even though too well mounted to have this occur,

there are countless ways in which a novice, in endeavoring to keep on

even terms with the leaders, may unwittingly call down anything but

blessings on her head from those for whose good opinion she most

cares. It is a mistake for her to suppose that people are watching

her, ready to admire her pluck and dash, when she crashes through

fences because her horse was not collected, or rides so close to the

hounds as to risk hitting them. If she flatters herself that she is

cutting out the work, it is pretty certain she has no business to be

so far forward, and that she will add to the number of men who

consider the hunting-field no place for women.

[Sidenote: The Novice]

A beginner should be content to stay behind the first flight until,

by experience and skill, she has earned the right to take a better

place. At first she should find out which of the men go straight, yet

ride cautiously and manage to keep the hounds in sight. Such a one she

should choose as her pilot, rather than a reckless rider or one who

shirks his fences. Unless she is very well acquainted with him, a

woman should not let a man know that she is following him. It annoys

him to think that some one is "tagging on behind," or that he is

responsible for the jumps she takes. Above all things, she must

invariably give him or any one in front of her time to get well away

from a jump before she takes it. This is of the utmost importance, and

is a point neglected by men and women alike in the excitement and

impatience of a run.

If she desires to be looked upon otherwise than as a nuisance, she

must be as unobtrusive and cool-headed as possible, always courteous

to and considerate of others, patient when waiting for her turn at a

narrow place, and not try to take jumps that well-mounted, hard-riding

men deem impracticable.

[Sidenote: Hard Riding]

Women seldom need to be urged on in the hunting-field; they require

rather to be cautioned and restrained. If they are new at it, they do

not know the dangers to which they are exposed, so go recklessly; if

they appreciate the chances they take, they grit their teeth and go

desperately; if they are timid they nevertheless resolve not to be

outdone, and, trusting all to their horse, go blindly, even closing

their eyes at a critical moment. Therefore hard riding does not prove

that a woman has either pluck or skill. She is an exception who goes

straight and keeps with the hounds without taking foolish risks,

unnecessarily tiring her mount, or interfering with others, for this

requires judgment, discretion, skill, and nerve.

[Sidenote: Jealous Riding]

An undesirable trait observed in many instances is jealous

riding. This cannot be too strongly condemned, not only for the

unsportsmanlike spirit it betrays, but because it often threatens the

safety of others than those who ride in that manner. A jealous rider

crowds past people, jumps too close to them, and is constantly trying

to be among the first, regardless of the consequences to those he or

she hurries by. The motive that usually actuates a woman in such a

case is vanity. She cannot bear to see another woman ahead of her, so

she dashes along unmindful of the rules of etiquette and the

hunting-field, until by pushing, crowding, and taking big chances for

herself and against others, she reaches the object of her jealousy,

thinking to wrest from her the admiration of the field. If the other

woman is of the same mind and objects to being passed, a steeple-chase

will ensue that may end in accidents, disabled hounds, and bad

feelings. Admiration is far from the minds of the spectators, who do

not fail to see that jealousy and vanity, not eagerness for sport, are

the incentives to such hard riding.

[Sidenote: Desirable Qualities]

When a woman begins riding to hounds, she should already have had some

experience in larking a horse across country, and be acquainted with

the way to take the different kinds of jumps she will encounter during

a run. If she starts with a good seat and hands, pluck and nerve, a

little time and practice will add composure, judgment, and discretion,

and the experience necessary to cross a stiff country without mishap.

She may then discard the services of a pilot and ride her own line.

[Sidenote: Getting Away]

When hounds are thrown in, she must watch them, and, although not

interfering with their work, be ready to get away on good terms with

them when they begin to run.

Indecision at the first two jumps may cost one dearly, for during that

moment of hesitation hounds slip away, horses crowd one another and

begin to refuse, while the few who make the most of their

opportunities ride on ahead with the hounds. Much hard galloping may

retrieve the lost ground, but a stern chase is always disheartening to

horse and rider. By getting away in front, both are encouraged, and

start with mutual good-will and satisfaction--relations which should

always exist between a hunter and his rider.

[Sidenote: Indecision]

If, after pointing her horse's head at a certain part of a jump, she

thinks another place is more inviting, she must not change her course,

unless certain that she can do so without inconveniencing some one

else who may have been going straight at it.

It is inexcusable to turn from one place to another by cutting in

ahead of following riders. It throws their horses out of their stride,

and may force them to pull up in order to avoid a collision.

Therefore, in suddenly changing her direction, a woman must assure

herself that she is at least half a dozen lengths in front of her

follower, who is going straight, or she must wait until she has been

passed.

[Sidenote: Right of Way]

When a horse refuses, the rule is that the rider shall immediately

pull out and give the next a chance to jump. This is so often

overlooked in the field, that a few words seem desirable to impress

its importance upon the minds of those who hunt.

Women particularly seem to consider themselves privileged to keep

their horse at a fence while he refuses at each trial, blocking the

way, if there is no other place to jump, of those in their rear.

Frequently, when her horse refuses, his rider thinks there is time to

try it again before the next one reaches the place; she puts him at

the fence, in her hurry turning him so short he could not jump if he

wanted to, and the result is that he stops just as the other horse

arrives, whose rider is thereby obliged to pull up.

Had the woman pulled to one side in the first place, and waited until

her follower had given her horse a lead, which would probably have

induced him to jump, both would have been in the next field much

sooner than her impatience in the first instance eventually permitted.

[Sidenote: Funk]

A horse should not be ridden behind one that is likely to refuse, or

he may be inclined to imitate the misdoings of his predecessor.

In the same way, it is injudicious to take a horse to a place where

others are refusing, either from their own or their riders' timidity.

He is liable to be infected with their faint-heartedness; for it needs

an unusually sensible, reliable horse to be the first to jump out from

a crowd at a place that has stopped those in front of him.

It is far better for a woman to choose another way of reaching the

hounds than to risk adding to the number of refusers, unless she be so

well mounted as to be sure of giving the rest a lead.

[Sidenote: Excitable and Sluggish Horses]

A hot-headed, excitable horse will go more quietly if he can be made

to think he is ahead of the others. Therefore his rider should choose

a line for herself, apart from the others, and if he is a good

performer it will be safer to put him at a big jump where he can take

it coolly than to trust him at a smaller place where other horses are

crowding and goading him into a state of such impatience that in his

anxiety to overtake any one in front of him he will jump without

calculation, and endanger all in his vicinity by kicking, rearing, or

rushing.

A sluggish horse, on the contrary, should be kept near others, that

their lead and example may arouse his ambition and keep up his heart.

It will not do to allow such a horse to fall far behind, as he will

probably get discouraged and refuse to jump without a fight, at the

end of which the hunt may have disappeared in the distance.

[Sidenote: Proximity to Hounds]

It is never wise to ride on the line of hounds, but rather to the

right or left of them. Horses directly behind them frighten the hounds

and interfere with their hunting. It also makes a few run very fast to

keep from being galloped over, while many others sneak away or get

behind the horses, of whose heels they stand in terror.

It is a nuisance to be obliged to stop and give some slow hound a

chance to get by, or, if not considerate enough to do this, no rider

likes to see a hound going through a fence with the probability of

having a horse jump on him, should he pause for a moment on the other

side.

A woman will escape these occurrences if she will keep to one side of

the pack. In this position it is permissible to ride farther up than

when so doing would bring her too near the pack; but the leading

hounds must be watched closely, and should always be allowed plenty of

room to turn sharp to the side where she is, without bringing them in

contact with her horse. The instant they check, or even hover, for a

moment, a woman must stop, and for two reasons:

In the first place, because she does not want to be in the way should

it be necessary to cast the hounds in her direction; and, secondly,

because she should seize every opportunity of giving her horse a few

moments' respite, which she can afford to do if well enough up to

notice what the hounds are doing.

[Sidenote: Choosing a Line]

She must be guided as to her course by the character of the country

over which she is riding.

If the hounds run over a succession of small hills, much unnecessary

exertion may often be spared the horse by galloping around the base of

them, instead of over their crest. But the hounds must not be lost

sight of too long, or a sharp turn may hide them from view and conceal

the line they have taken.

When a very steep hill is to be descended, it should be done by going

down sideways in a zig-zag course, so that in case of a slip or

stumble the horse will not roll over, as he might if attempting to

make the descent in a straight line.

If the going is rough or through furze or some low growth of

underbrush, a woman should sit well back in her saddle, and although

guiding her horse, allow him plenty of rein to stretch his neck and

see where he is putting his feet. Should he stumble or step into a

hole, she will in this way have the best chance of keeping her seat,

and he of regaining his balance.

If riding in a district where wire is extensively used for fencing, it

will not do for a woman to go very far to one side of the hounds or to

try to cut out a line for herself, unless she knows the country.

Otherwise she may get pocketed by the wire, which few horses here are

trained to jump, and which, therefore, should not be ridden at. In

this case she would have to go back the way she came until she could

get clear of it.

In jumping towards the sun, extra precautions should be taken. A horse

is often quite blinded, and unable to accurately gauge the size of the

jump he is to take, especially if it is timber. When the rays are

directly in his eyes, the best thing to do is to walk him up to and

alongside of the fence for a few yards, giving him a chance to measure

it, then take him back and put him at it. This must not be done where

it will interfere with any one else, but in any case such a jump must

be approached slowly.

Wide ditches and streams are probably shirked as often as any kind of

jump. Too much preparation for them excites the horse's suspicions and

makes him hesitate, then refuse. A horse must be kept collected, yet

sent along too fast to admit of any faltering on his part, and there

must be no involuntary checking of his stride as the rider tries to

see the depth or width of ditch or stream. When such are in sight, it

is well to quicken the horse's pace, that he may reach the place

before he sees any horse refusing, or before the banks have been made

unsound by the jumping of the others. Each horse will probably widen

the distance as the ground gives way beneath him, so a woman must use

her own judgment in deciding where she will jump, instead of following

some one else.

A bog or swamp is a most disagreeable place in which to be caught, and

calls for calmness to get out without a wetting or fall. To quiet the

horse is the first thing, and prevent his plunging into it deeper and

deeper, as he will with every struggle. Should he be sinking, his

rider must get off, keeping hold of the reins, for, although their

combined weight would cause the bog to give beneath them, they might

separately be able to keep on the surface, and quietly and gradually

work their way to firm ground.

Whenever one comes upon something that cannot be seen at a distance,

such as a hole, a drop, or a wire, the first person who discovers it

should warn those behind by shouting back what it is, and, if

possible, motioning where it is, that those in the rear may avoid it,

each person cautioning the next one.

XI

SYMPATHY BETWEEN HORSE AND WOMAN

The advantages derived from the existence of sympathy between horse

and rider cannot be too highly estimated. When a woman gives her horse

to understand that he will be ruled by kindness, he is very certain to

serve her far more willingly and faithfully than if she tried to

control him by force. If he has learned to be fond of her voice, it

will calm and reassure him in moments of excitement which might

otherwise result in a runaway; it will stimulate him to expend his

best energies at her command, when force or punishment would fail, and

will do more to establish a mutual understanding in a few weeks than

would be gained in as many months of silent control.

A horse soon learns to distinguish the intonation of words of praise

from those of censure, terms of endearment from admonition, and will

often respond to them more readily than to severe discipline.

Few horses are so dull as not to be susceptible to kindness, or so

vicious as not to be influenced by gentle treatment.

[Sidenote: Talking to Horse]

I do not approve of a woman, once she is in the saddle, entering upon

a lengthy address of endearment to her horse if she is riding with

friends. They may care for a little of her attention themselves; it is

just as well not to show them the horse is the more interesting, even

if she feels so.

Moreover, incessant chatter becomes after a little time so familiar to

the animal that the voice loses its power when intended to convey a

definite meaning, and he fails to distinguish the difference between

commands and idle pettings.

It is only necessary to reprove him, to give words of command, such as

"walk," "trot," "canter," "whoa," which he may easily be taught to

obey, and a few words accompanied by a caress to soothe, encourage, or

command him when the occasion presents itself.

When living in the country, with a stable near the house, a woman is

afforded the most favorable opportunity of making friends with her

horse.

A good way to begin will be to dismount at the stable after a ride and

take off the saddle and bridle.

It is very simple, for it is only to unbuckle the outside leather

girth, stirrup leather, two inside girths, and perhaps a balance

strap, and take off the saddle, unfasten the throat latch, lip strap,

and curb chain on the bridle, throw the reins over his head, and take

hold of the headstall, when he will withdraw his head.

She must have his halter ready to put on at once, or he might pull

away.

This will give him a pleasant impression of her, which is an important

point gained.

Should she through some mistake find no one in the stable, and the

horse in a heat at the end of her ride, she should not hesitate to

scrape him herself, brush the mud off his legs, put a light blanket on

him, give him only a mouthful of water, and put him in his stall with

a little hay. If she will rub his ears, and sponge out his mouth, it

will be a great relief to him.

All this should be accomplished in a quiet manner, nothing done to

alarm or excite him; and she may talk to him most of the time, and

thus become quite friendly with him.

[Sidenote: In the Stall]

When she visits him in the stall, she should always speak before

touching him or entering, otherwise he might be startled and kick or

plunge from fright.

If in a standing stall, entrance should always be made at the near

side of the horse.

I greatly prefer a loose box in which the horse may turn at his

pleasure. If he eats too much of his bedding, it is better to keep a

leather muzzle on him than to tie his head up.

Before opening the door of the box, he should be induced to face it,

to avoid the possibility of his kicking. This can be managed by

offering him some sugar, carrots, or oats, which he will come for,

held quietly on the palm of the hand, with the fingers out of his

reach.

It is well for a woman, at first, to keep a light hold of the halter,

so that he cannot crush her against the wall or hit her with his head.

She should never put her head above his, or a severe knock may be the

result. She should pet him, avoiding all sudden movements, and

accustom him to her voice; when it has become familiar to him, he will

listen for it, and neigh at her approach.

If he seems inclined to kick, the closer she keeps to him the better,

as then she will receive only a shove, instead of the full force of

the blow. If he shows a tendency to nip or bite, from play or

mischief, he should be muzzled until, by coaxing and kindness, he has

been made to give it up.

To strike him would be to turn his playful though dangerous prank into

a vicious habit.

In petting him she should begin by stroking his neck, and gradually

work down and backwards with a firm, light touch, until he does not

resent being handled. He must be taught to let her lean on any part of

him, and not to fear her skirts. This is often of value in case a

woman is thrown and her habit catches on the saddle; for if the horse

were accustomed to her weight and skirt being against him, he would

not become frightened. Knowing her voice, he might be quieted by it,

and had he learned the important lesson of stopping at the word

"whoa," she might escape being dragged.

[Sidenote: On the Road]

If in the course of a ride a woman dismounts at a house or stable, she

should always be sure that a light blanket is immediately thrown over

her horse. She should not start for a ride until some time after her

horse has been fed, or his digestion will become impaired, as would

hers under similar circumstances. After mounting, it is always well,

by a light hold of the snaffle, to make a horse walk a short while; it

is most annoying to have him start with a series of plunges or an

inclination to bolt.

If he is so fresh that he will not walk without restraint likely to

irritate him, perhaps spoiling his temper for the rest of the ride, it

will be better to let him indulge in a brisk trot, after which he may

be brought back to a walk. The next time, if having had more work, he

will walk at first, while had his mouth been jerked the previous time,

or a fight ensued, he would remember it, and prepare for a repetition

of the performance.

A horse should not of his own will be allowed to change his gaits, but

his rider must think to vary them; for if the horse is kept on one

too long, it tires him unnecessarily and causes him to travel

carelessly. Whatever gait she makes him adopt, it should be distinct

and regular, and he should be kept collected and not urged beyond the

pace at which he can comfortably travel.

[Sidenote: Cautions]

A jog-trot, trotting in front and cantering behind, and other such

eccentricities, should not be permitted in a park hack.

In turning a corner, the horse should always be somewhat supported,

and have his hind-legs brought well under him, or he will be liable to

slip. He should never be cantered around a corner unless leading with

the foot towards which he will turn.

He should not be pulled up abruptly, unless to avoid sudden obstacles,

but his pace should be gradually decreased until it is as required. A

sharp stop entails considerable strain on the back tendons and hocks,

and if done too often would be apt to make the horse throw a curb.

In going downhill, a walk is the gait which should be taken, or the

horse's fore-legs will suffer. Should the ground be uneven and rough,

or covered with rolling stones, the horse ought to be permitted to

walk. His head should not be held too tightly, or he will be unable to

see where he is going, while if the reins are slack he will appreciate

that he must pick his way, and then will seldom put a foot wrong.

It is most undesirable to canter where there is a hard road; nothing

will more quickly use up a horse than pounding along, each stride

laying the foundation of windgalls and stiffness, if nothing more

serious results from this ill-advised practice.

If a horse is at all warm, he must never be allowed to stand in a

draught; five minutes of it might founder him, so that he would be

ruined, or thrown into pneumonia. If, while on her ride, a woman

should be forced to wait, she must keep her horse moving in a circle

or any other way, keeping his chest from the wind as much as possible.

Before reaching home, the horse should be walked for some time, so

that he may enter the stable cool, and not be endangered by draughts

if not attended to at once.

When riding with others, their horses should be regarded; and as the

woman sets the pace, she should not make it faster than that which her

companions' horses can easily maintain.

XII

PRACTICAL KNOWLEDGE OF THE STABLE

[Sidenote: Stabling]

The woman should visit her horse in the stable, and there she cannot

talk to him too much. If it be a private one, I assume that it is

constructed on hygienic principles; but as horses are frequently

boarded at livery-stables, a woman should not leave the choice of a

stall to her groom. She should see that of those procurable it is the

best drained and ventilated, though free from draughts, and well

lighted. If these conditions are not obtained, sickness and incapacity

may be looked for in the horse. She should notice the feed

occasionally, and see that her horse is supplied with all he requires,

and of the best quality, and that he has an abundance of good

bedding. A frequent or indiscriminate use of physics is to be

deprecated. Pure air, good food, careful grooming, and regular,

moderate exercise are the best tonics.

[Sidenote: Picking up Feet]

She must learn to pick up her horse's feet, as she should examine his

shoes personally, and ascertain that they have been made to fit the

feet, instead of the horn being rasped away to fit the shoes. The

soles must be pared, but the frogs and bars should not be interfered

with. She cannot expect to have the shoes on more than a month;

although, if the horse has not had enough work to wear them down, they

may be removed and put on again, for were they worn too long, corns

and inflammation, causing lameness, would be the result. Another

reason for knowing how to lift his feet is that he might pick up a

stone on the road, and if alone she would be obliged to take it out,

or run the risk of seriously laming him. While a woman is playing with

him is an excellent opportunity for her to look at her horse's feet,

which should be taken up in the following manner.

She must stand on his near side, a trifle back of his fore-legs, and

facing his hind ones. She should run her left hand from his knee to

his fetlock, behind, and inside of his near fore-leg, grasping just

below his fetlock, with the fingers on the coronet and the thumb above

on the pastern. A horse which has been broken will yield his foot,

bending his knee at once, but sometimes with such force that she must

keep her head held up, so that there be no chance of contact with his

heel. With the right hand she can examine his foot, after which she

may pass to his off fore-foot, and then to the near hind-leg.

For this she must stand close to his side, and stroke him firmly from

the quarters to the hock. Passing her right hand under his hock to his

fetlock, and grasping his foot as she did the fore one, she must raise

it, letting the hock rest in the angle of her arm, while with her

right hand she turns up the foot for inspection. She must not lean too

far over or get back of the horse, or she is likely to be kicked if he

offers any resistance.

Then, too, she may unfasten the roller and throw back his blanket,

that she may be sure the saddle has not rubbed his back. A slight

abrasion of the skin, if treated at once, will require only a day or

two to heal; but if neglected for some days, the time will be greatly

prolonged. If any soreness is detected, the saddle should be looked to

immediately and the cause of the trouble remedied.

[Sidenote: Grooming]

A shining coat is not positive proof that the horse is properly

groomed. The hair should be rubbed the wrong way, and if the skin

leaves a whitish deposit on the fingers, it will be well for the

horse's owner to watch the groom the next time the horse is dressed,

and to insist upon its being thoroughly done.

[Sidenote: Bitting]

Much of what seems to be vice in a horse comes from his having been

imperfectly bitted when young, or from subsequently having his mouth

roughly handled. He should always be ridden in as easy a bit as

possible, as some horses go well and quietly in a plain snaffle, and

will pull, bolt, or run in a curb or any severe contrivance. No rule

can be given as to what bit will best control certain tendencies.

Experimenting with each kind will be the only means of finding out,

but pulling is as likely to arise from an over-sensitive mouth as

from a hard one, in which case a rubber snaffle might prove

efficacious where a Chifney would fail.

Sometimes certain parts of the mouth become callous, and a bit bearing

on a different place might produce the desired result. Most horses

will go well in a bit and bridoon, varied to suit their peculiarities

by the height of the port, the length of the branches, and the

pressure of the curb-chain. There are certain points which should

always be regarded. The mouth-piece must fit the horse's mouth

exactly, being neither so narrow as to pinch him, nor so wide as to

lose its power. The port should be the same width as the

tongue-channel, and no higher than required to leave room for the

tongue. The curb-chain must be sufficiently tight to furnish leverage

for the branches, yet not so tight as to pinch the jaw when no force

is applied.

[Sidenote: Clipping]

Clipping horses in winter I have heard objected to on the ground of

its being unsafe to deprive them of the thick coat which affords

protection from the cold. If their coat is thick and long, it is, in

my opinion, much wiser to clip them, and for several very good

reasons. Their work is rarely continuous, and the alternating of the

heated with the cooling-off condition is very liable to work more or

less injury. A heavy-coated horse which has been driven until very

warm, and then left for half an hour to stand outside of a shop or

house and become chilled by the wind striking the heavy wet coat,

which frequently does not dry for hours, is likely to become a subject

for the veterinary.

On the other hand, if the horse is clipped, he does not get so warm

in the first place, and, in the second, would cool off more quickly

and without danger of becoming chilled. In very cold weather quarter

blankets will furnish all the protection necessary, and prevent the

wind from striking the horse while standing.

With saddle horses, although not so important, it is an advantage to

have them clipped, because a cold day is certain to make the rider go

steadily to keep warm, and the horse, becoming overheated (if his coat

is heavy), is in great danger of taking cold if permitted to stand for

a moment in a draught.

[Sidenote: Bridling]

No woman who rides should be without a practical knowledge of how to

saddle and bridle her horse, as the groom often turns him out

imperfectly bitted or girthed; and unless she knows how to do it

herself, she will not perceive that anything is wrong until too late

to prevent mischief. She should learn to hold the bridle by the

headstall, in her left hand, as with the right she slips off the

horse's halter, and throws the reins over his head. Then change it to

the right hand, putting her left on the bits, which she gently inserts

between his jaws. With the right she must pull his ears under the

headstall, and then turn her attention to fitting the bridle.

She must see that the headstall fits, that the forehead-band is not

too tight, and that there is plenty of room between the throat-latch

and the throat. The snaffle-rein is fitted by the buckles of the

cheek-piece, and should fall a trifle below the angle of the mouth.

The curb needs careful adjustment, that the mouth-piece may rest

exactly on the bars of the mouth. Then the chain must be hooked when

quite flat on the chin-groove, but not tight enough, unless used

vigorously, to inconvenience the horse. The lip-strap should pass

through the small ring attached to the curb-chain, thus keeping it in

place. I like a bridle with buckles, or billets as they are called,

rather than one which is stitched to the rings. In the first place, it

is frequently desirable to change the bits, especially in a large

stable, and being sewed would necessitate a bridle for each bit.

Furthermore, when the bits are washed, the leather gets wet, and the

stitching is apt to become rotten, and unexpectedly give way at a

critical moment, when some unusual strain is put on it.

[Illustration: DOUBLE BRIDLE FOR GENERAL USE]

[Sidenote: Noseband]

A noseband furnishes additional control over a horse; but it should

not be attached to the bridle, or it may interfere with the action of

the bit. It should have a headstall and cheek-pieces, and be

buckled tight enough to prevent the horse from opening his mouth too

wide, but it must not restrain his breathing.

[Sidenote: Martingale]

If a martingale is used, I much prefer a running to a standing one. It

is useful with star-gazers or horses that get their noses out too far.

Some horses need one to steady them in hunting, but the running

martingale is the only one which should be tolerated in jumping, and

then not be used unless necessary. It is attached to a girth, and at

the two upper ends are sewed rings through which the snaffle passes.

With a running martingale there must be a stop on each snaffle,

considerably larger than the rings of the martingale; otherwise there

is danger of these rings getting caught in the bits, frightening the

horse, and making him rear or back, as there is no way to release the

pressure thus brought on his mouth. The length should be carefully

regulated, so that it will keep the horse's head at the desired

height. This admits of considerable play to the horse, but within

control of the rider, while with a standing martingale no liberty is

attainable. Once mounted, the rider cannot influence its bearing; and

should the horse trip, he cannot fling up his head, as he must to

regain his balance.

[Sidenote: Breast-plate]

For ordinary riding a breast-plate is not always used, but in hunting

it is almost indispensable, and is always a safeguard against a

woman's saddle slipping back. It is put on over the horse's head with

the reins, and one strap passes between his fore-legs, through the

loop of which one of the girths passes. Two other ends buckle, one on

each side of the saddle, near the horse's withers, and it should be

loose enough to admit of free movement in galloping and jumping.

[Illustration: CORRECT SADDLE]

[Illustration: UNDESIRABLE SADDLE]

[Sidenote: The Saddle]

The saddle should be very plain in appearance. It must have a level

seat, which can only be obtained in those having the tree cut away

above the withers; otherwise, to clear them, the saddle must be so

elevated in front that it is sometimes six inches higher than the

cantle, placing the knee in an awkward and fatiguing position, and it

is impossible to rise without an unusual amount of exertion, which

will lead to arching the back, thrusting the head forward, and

probably galling the horse's withers. There should be no third pommel,

such as there formerly was on the right side of the saddle, bending to

the left over the right leg.

The two pommels must fit the knees exactly, or the circulation will be

impeded, and a cramp brought on which renders the muscles powerless to

grip the pommels. The seat must extend about an inch beyond the line

of the spine, and, although I usually object to it, for a child the

seat should be covered with buckskin. No more padding should be used

than is required to fit the horse's back, as it looks badly for the

top of the saddle to be several inches above the horse. Moreover, the

nearer one is to the animal's back, the greater will be the control.

It enables one more readily to detect the stiffening of the muscles

when mischief is contemplated, and to be prepared to thwart it. It

should not have any superfluous straps, stitching, or attempts at

ornamentation: the simpler the style the better; even the slit on the

saddle-flap for the pocket is now frequently dispensed with. A safety

pommel-band is sometimes fastened from the extreme upper forward end

of the right saddle-flap to the top of the right pommel, thence to the

left. This lessens the likelihood of a skirt becoming caught.

[Sidenote: Stirrup]

On no account should a slipper stirrup be used, but a safety stirrup

without any padding, and one which does not work by having the bottom

drop out, as these are apt to come to pieces when least desired,

leaving the foot without any support. The best kind have the inner

half-circle jointed in the middle and working on a hinge at both

sides, so that it can open only on being pulled from below, as in case

of a fall. Next to this in safety comes a plain, small racing stirrup.

[Illustration: SAFETY STIRRUP, CLOSED]

[Sidenote: Girths]

The Fitz-William web girths are the best for a woman's saddle, white

being used in preference to darker shades. There are braided raw-hide

and also cord girths, the former being very serviceable, but they do

not look so well as either of the others.

[Illustration: SAFETY STIRRUP, OPEN]

[Sidenote: Saddling]

When the saddle is in position, free from the play of the shoulders,

the first girth is taken up, then the back one, and kept clear of the

horse's elbows, that his action may not be impeded. Although pulling

the girths excessively tight is to be avoided, it will not do to leave

them loose, as a woman's unevenly distributed weight might cause the

saddle to turn. Any wrinkles in the skin caused by the girthing should

be smoothed away by passing the fingers between the girths and the

horse. Then the stirrup-leather is buckled, after this the outside

leather strap that keeps the saddle-flap in place, and finally the

balance-strap, which must be fairly tight, assists in keeping the

saddle in position. Before mounting she should always glance at the

saddle and bridle, and be sure that they are properly put on;

otherwise her ride may be rendered uncomfortable, if not dangerous.

XIII

SOMETHING ON DRIVING

[Sidenote: Desirability of Instruction]

Ninety-nine women out of every hundred are firmly convinced that

instruction is by no means necessary to their driving safely and in

good form. Four men out of five labor under the same delusion. It is a

sad error, that leads to numberless failures, and many accidents which

might so easily be avoided if the services of a competent teacher were

employed at the beginning. Having seen others drive without any

apparent difficulty, the novice conceives the notion that there is

nothing to learn which cannot be mastered without assistance after one

or two attempts. If such a one escapes a bill of damages, it should

be credited to the ministering care of her guardian angel. She may

indeed escape accident; she may learn to start without dislocating the

neck of every one in the trap, and get around the corner without an

upset; but she will never learn to _drive_. There is something more

for her to know than that she must pull the off rein to turn to the

right and the near one to go to the left, though this appears to be

the extent of knowledge deemed necessary.

Women, even more than men, require a thorough understanding of what

they are doing, for they lack the strength to rectify a miscalculation

at the last moment. The ignorance, indecision, and weakness frequently

displayed by women in driving are what so often render them objects of

apprehension to experienced whips.

It is folly for any woman to flatter herself that she needs only a

little practice, and that the rest "will come." If she has not begun

correctly, practice will only wed her to the faults she must have

acquired.

Assuming, however, for the sake of argument, that, after having

discounted her call on an all-protecting Providence and stricken with

terror her long-suffering friends, she manages to guide the family nag

along the turnpike without the aid of a civil escort to clear the road

before her--what of it? She hasn't learned anything; her form is

execrable; and in case of an emergency she is quite as unprepared as

when she took up the reins weeks before, with the ill-conceived notion

that she was not of the common clay, and that, a whip, rather than a

rattle, had been the insignia of her infantile days.

How much better, safer, and more sensible to acquire good form than by

its neglect to become an object of ridicule to those who, by their

knowledge of driving and exposition of superior horsemanship, are

entitled to criticise others who have disregarded proper instruction,

and, wise in their own conceit, relied on their ignorance for

guidance.

[Sidenote: Vulgar Display]

Some women there are who drive only because they consider it the

"proper thing." Absorbed in the opportunity for display, and ignorant

of the fitness of things, they array themselves in the treasures of

their wardrobe, more likely than not to be a gay silk, and, with every

discordant ribbon and flounce of their _bizarre_ costume loudly

challenging the attention of the on-lookers, they sally forth perched

on the box of a spider phaeton, Tilbury, or dog-cart, indifferent to,

because ignorant of, the incongruity of their turnout, unconscious of

the signal they have flung to the breeze, which unmistakably proclaims

their lack of early instruction.

[Sidenote: Bad Form]

These are they who in the handling of their animals instantly call to

mind the puppet-shows of our childhood days, and fill us with an

almost irresistible desire to look under the box-seat and discover who

is working the invisible wires. Every movement is spasmodic--the arms

work as though an alternating electric current were constantly being

turned through them--the hands finger the reins nervously; and if the

vehicle happens to be a two-wheeler, the unhappy driver looks as

though every jolt of the poorly balanced cart would send her into the

road from her very insecure seat.

Another harrowing spectacle is that of the woman leaning forward, a

rein in each hand, with her arms dragged almost over the dash-board

by her horse's mouth, a look of direful expectancy in her eyes, and a

much be-flowered and be-ribboned hat occupying unmolested a rakish

position over one ear, where it has fallen during her hopeless

struggle with the reins.

[Illustration: A WELL-BALANCED CART]

[Sidenote: Costume]

It is strange women should not have a sufficiently clear idea of the

fitness of things to realize that elaborate toilets of silks, laces,

and flowers, and large hats, although appropriate in a victoria, are

inconvenient and totally out of place when driving a sporting-trap,

such as a dog-cart.

A plain, neatly fitting, but not tight cloth suit, with a small hat,

which will not catch the wind, is far more serviceable and in better

taste. However, she should avoid the other extreme affected by the

woman who desires to appear masculine and "sporty," and who,

showing a large expanse of shirt front, wears a conspicuous plaid

suggestive of a horse-blanket.

This specimen of feminine "horsy-ness" invariably drives with her

hands held almost under her chin, and her whip in as vertical a

position as herself. She is as powerless to control her animal as is

the one who leans over the dash-board.

[Sidenote: Cockade]

This is the sort of woman who compels her groom, if she have one, to

wear a cockade in his hat, in ignorance of the fact that we in this

country have no claim to its use. In Great Britain it is the

distinguishing mark of either the royal family or the military, naval,

or civil officers of the government; but used here it is only a

meaningless affectation.

[Sidenote: Confidence]

To achieve success, and to obtain a business-like appearance in

driving, a woman must possess confidence in her power to control her

horses, and it must be the confidence derived from knowledge and

skill, and not that born of ignorance or fool-hardiness.

She must know what to do, and how to do it promptly, under all

circumstances, and this necessitates a thorough comprehension of the

sport she is pursuing.

It is to be hoped she will gain this from competent instruction, and

that she will embrace every opportunity of adding to her information

on the subject.

[Sidenote: The "Family-Horse" Fallacy]

A quiet, steady old horse, such as one might expect to see doing

farm-work, cannot always be recommended even to a beginner, for he

generally requires so little management that when he does

occasionally become unruly it is so unusual that the woman is taken

unawares.

Moreover, it makes one careless and slovenly always to drive a horse

which goes along in a leisurely manner, without any display of life.

A woman who has been accustomed to such an animal will be at a loss to

manage a spirited pair, should she be called upon to do so. If she

begin with a horse which goes well into his collar and does his work

generously, she will learn twice as much as she would in the same time

with a lazy horse, and will sooner be able to drive a pair.

[Sidenote: On the Box]

The position on the driving seat should be comfortable and firm, which

cannot be the case when it is used merely to lean against, instead of

to sit upon.

From the knee down, the leg should be but slightly bent, with the

feet together and resting against the foot-rail.

The elbows should be held near the body, and the reins in the left

hand, with the little finger down, and the knuckles pointing straight

ahead, about on a line with or a trifle below the waist, and in the

middle of the body.

Whether driving one or two horses, the manner of holding the reins is

the same; but more strength and decision, as well as the judgment

which, of course, experience will bring, are required for the pair.

[Sidenote: Position of Reins]

The near rein belongs on top of the first finger, held there firmly by

the thumb, and the off rein should be between the second and third

fingers.

The gloves should be large, broad across the knuckles, and long in the

fingers; otherwise cold, stiff hands will result from the impeded

circulation.

The right hand, close to the left, should contain the whip, which must

be held at an angle of a little less than forty-five degrees, and at

the collar, about eight to ten inches from the butt, so that it

balances properly.

[Sidenote: Handling Reins]

When about to start, the reins should be tightened, to feel the

horse's mouth, and a light touch of the whip will suffice to send him

forward. The hand should then yield, so that as he straightens the

traces there will be no jerk on his mouth.

In turning to the right or to the left, the reins must not be

separated.

The right hand should be placed on the rein, indicating the desired

direction, until the turn has been made; but a slight pressure on the

opposite rein should keep the horse from going too near a corner.

The left hand must not relax its hold, so that when the right is

removed the reins will be even, as they were before.

In stopping, the body is not to be bent backwards, suggestive of an

expected shock, and the hands raised to the chin.

It cannot be too strongly impressed on the woman's mind that the less

perceptible effort she makes, the more skilful will she appear.

Therefore, if she take hold of the reins with her right hand as far in

front of the left as she can handily reach, and then draw them back,

she will have accomplished her purpose in a quiet and easy manner.

[Sidenote: A Pair]

Driving a pair is much the same as driving one horse; but allowances

should be made for the peculiarities of each, and they should not be

treated as though machines of identical construction.

Frequently a woman driving a nervous horse with a quiet one will hit

them both with the whip, when, should she touch the quiet one only,

the sound of it would urge the other as much as the blow does the dull

one.

Here is another objection to clucking to horses: one of them needs it

much more than the other, yet they hear it with equal clearness, and

simultaneously; therefore the high-mettled horse increases his pace

sooner and more than his sluggish companion, and does more than his

share of the work. Several noiseless touches of the whip, administered

in quick succession to the laggard, will do more to equalize their

pace than would a sharp, loud cut or any amount of clucking.

Sometimes a woman will experience great inconvenience from not having

her horses properly bitted and harnessed. This should always be seen

to, either by herself or some one who is competent to judge for her.

When she has more than one horse to control, she will soon become

tired if one of them pulls and the other will not go into his collar.

A judicious readjustment of the curb-chain and the coupling-rein will

often make the difference between discomfort and ease.

XIV

SOMETHING MORE ON DRIVING

[Sidenote: Management]

While a horse is doing his work in a satisfactory manner he should not

be irritated by having his mouth jerked and the whip applied for the

driver's amusement. It is a pity all women do not realize that a horse

will accomplish, with less fatigue, much more work when taken quietly

than he will if fretted and tormented by needless urging or restraint.

Constant nagging affects an animal in the same way as it does a human

being; and though a horse is usually subjected to such treatment

through want of thought, it is none the less exasperating to him.

One result of this ordeal is that it prompts him to break into a

canter as he becomes restless; and then he must be brought back to a

trot by decreasing the speed and keeping the hands steady.

[Sidenote: Stumbling]

A stumbling horse must be kept awake and going at a medium rate of

speed. In either a very fast trot or a slow one he is likely to trip,

and unless his driver is prepared for it, and ready to keep him up, he

will probably fall, and she may be pulled over the dash-board.

A bearing-rein may assist in keeping him on his feet, but an habitual

stumbler can never be considered safe. Such a horse must not be driven

with loose reins, as a feeling on his mouth is necessary at all times.

[Sidenote: Backing]

When a horse persistently backs, there are two great dangers: first,

he may upset the carriage, unless it cuts under; and, secondly, he may

back into something or over an embankment.

If the road be level, a woman must try to keep the horse from backing

to one side, although in case of a steep declivity it may be necessary

to pull him sideways, and risk an overturn rather than a fall over a

bank. In all events, the whip should be vigorously applied, in the

hope of starting the horse forward; if the woman have a groom with

her, he should go to the horse's head at once and lead him.

Occasionally, backing may arise from sore shoulders caused by an

ill-fitting collar; but if there is no such excuse for his action, and

it should become a habit, the horse is not suitable for any woman to

drive.

If desirous of making a turn in a narrow lane, it will often be

necessary to back off the road, between trees or on to a foot-path,

to obtain room. Some horses will not back under these circumstances,

nor from a shed where they have been tied. In most instances all that

will be required is to get out, take the horse by his bridle, and by

lightly tapping one foot make him raise it, at the same time pushing

him back by the bit. The other foot should be moved in the same way,

and this repeated until he has gone far enough. After a few steps the

woman may resume her seat, with the probability of the horse backing

without further resistance.

[Sidenote: Rearing and Kicking]

If the horse is nervous, the pull at his mouth may make him back so

fast that in his excitement he will rear. In this event the reins

should be loosened a moment and the animal quieted, after which the

backing process may be continued.

If the rearing comes from temper, and takes place when he has been

going forward, there should be no weight on his mouth while he seems

in danger of falling backward, but a cut of the whip administered as

he comes down may prevent his trying it again. It is important to feel

his mouth at this juncture, as the whip will make him plunge forward,

and the hold on his mouth must be firm enough to keep the traces loose

as he lands; otherwise there would be a sudden strain on them, and

consequently an unpleasant jerk, which might bring the carriage on to

his hocks, as he stopped to gather himself for another effort, and,

even if it did not make him kick or run, he would probably be bruised.

A determined kicker needs to have his head kept up, and for this

purpose a bearing-rein will be found of great service. He should be

driven with a kicking-strap, but it must not be too tight, or it will

induce the habit it is intended to cure. He may kick if the crupper is

too tight, so this also should be looked to.

[Sidenote: Rein under Tail]

When a rein gets under the tail of a horse, under no circumstances

should an attempt be made to pull it away. It should be pushed

forward, and the horse spoken to in a reassuring manner.

If he does not then release it, a slight cut of the whip may divert

his attention; he will whisk his tail, and at this instant the rein

must be allowed to fall to one side, as were it pulled directly up, it

would be likely to be caught again. If these methods do not prove

efficacious, a woman must try to keep the horse straight, and prevail

upon him to walk until some one sees her predicament and comes to her

assistance. In some traps she might be able to reach forward and

remedy the difficulty, meanwhile watching for any symptoms of kicking.

But whether she does it herself or directs some one else, she must see

that the tail is lifted, instead of an effort being made to pull the

rein away.

Many mishaps come from this seemingly trivial occurrence, and a horse

frightened by improper treatment is liable to bolt or run.

It is always an excellent plan to have a horse trained to stop short

at the word "whoa!" This expression is usually misapplied, being made

to do duty for "steady" or "quiet," and it will be difficult to teach

a horse its true significance unless he is never driven without this

end in view, and the term employed only when it is meant.

[Sidenote: Bolting and Running]

In the event of a horse bolting, the chances are very great against a

woman's checking him. If she can do it at all, it will be by sawing

his mouth, and giving a succession of sharp jerks, while endeavoring

to control his course.

The most dangerous and irrational thing she can do is to jump out of

the trap.

Severe injuries almost invariably attend such a proceeding; and if it

be possible to stay in, she should do so, never relinquishing her hold

on the reins. If from the swaying of the carriage she seems in danger

of being thrown out, a woman must make sure that her skirts are not

caught on anything, and that her feet are clear of the reins.

Men sometimes pull a runaway horse into a ditch or up a steep bank,

which stops him; but a smash or an overturn is inevitable; and should

a woman attempt this, there is great danger of her being unable to

extricate herself from the tangle. She is handicapped by her skirts,

which are more than likely to cause her to be dragged should the horse

manage to start off again. Besides this, after a struggle such as she

will have had, a woman will seldom have enough strength left to force

a horse from the direction he has chosen.

[Sidenote: Crowded Driveways]

In whatever pranks horses indulge, the dangers are multiplied and

intensified when encountered by a woman who ventures to drive in a

crowded park or avenue during the afternoon.

Women of culture and refinement, realizing this, and wishing to avoid

making themselves conspicuous on public highways, are content to be

driven at this hour, reserving the mornings for the pleasure of

handling the reins themselves.

Some women there are who drive better than most coachmen, and a few of

these may desire to display their skill and their well-appointed traps

when the spectators are most numerous. They may be competent to make

their way through such a maze as one finds on popular carriage roads,

but they do it in defiance of the condemnation they will receive from

people of more refined ideas.

The majority of women who drive are unable to control their horses,

and they need not flatter themselves that their immunity from

accidents is the result of their skill. They owe their safety to the

fact that men, appreciating the uncertainty of their movements, give

them plenty of room, and keep as far as they can from anything driven

by a woman.

[Sidenote: Road Courtesy]

Such women would be less objectionable if they were more considerate

of others. For example, they should keep on their own side of the

drive, and, if they are going slowly, as much to the right of it as

possible, that those who desire to pass may not have their way

blocked.

Again, they should remember that some one is behind them, and that

they should not endeavor to turn or stop abruptly without having

intimated their intention to those in the rear.

Another heedless thing they do is, in passing a leading trap to turn

in ahead of it so sharply that a more careful driver is forced to pull

up rather than endanger his horses by having the wheels swing against

them.

Women seem to forget now and then that they must always pass to the

left of a vehicle in front of them, and not try to get through a

small space on its right. If they would only take a few lessons in

driving, pay attention to the instruction they receive, and cultivate

consideration for others, their presence on the box might be welcomed

more frequently and with greater warmth than it now is.

It would be well if equestrians rode with more regard for the

convenience of those who are driving. When a bridle-path is provided

for them, there is no reason why they should usurp any of the road

intended for carriages. They would feel outraged, and justly so, if

one vehicle should appear on their road; yet swarms of them daily use

the drive, occupying much-needed space, and clattering and darting

along, unmindful of startled horses and the narrow escapes of their

own mounts from collisions with many wheels.

[Sidenote: Tandems and Teams]

Comparatively few women are so fortunate as to have an opportunity to

drive tandem or four-in-hand. If they are so situated that they would

be likely to do so frequently, they should not hesitate to take

lessons, as otherwise they would slowly learn from many dangerous and

costly experiences what a trustworthy teacher could have shown them

with safety and expedition. However, it is well to be prepared for all

contingencies, and therefore many women may desire to know something

about these branches of driving, in case they should in some

unforeseen manner have an opportunity to essay them.

If, for instance, she were driving with a friend who offered to let

her take the reins, a woman would not be expected to look to the

harnessing and bitting, but there are a few points she might be glad

to know.

[Sidenote: Reins]

The reins are held the same in tandem and team-driving. The first

finger separates the leaders' reins, and the second those of the

wheelers, with each near rein above the off one. Thus over the first

finger will be the near leader, under it the off leader, and between

this rein and the second finger the near wheeler, with the off wheeler

between the second and third fingers. The right hand must be free to

hold the whip and to manipulate the reins.

The off-wheel rein will often need attention, as the third finger is

not so strong as the other two used, and therefore this rein will more

readily slip through.

In changing a rein it must always be done by pushing it back from in

front of the hand, instead of pulling it through from behind.

[Illustration: POSITION IN TANDEM]

The correct handling of the whip can be mastered only after much

patience and constant practice, but its proper use is of paramount

importance.

Women will find driving tandem easier than driving four, because,

although it requires more skill to keep the horses straight, it does

not call for the amount of muscle needed to manage four horses, the

brake, and whip.

[Sidenote: Unruly Leader]

At first the weight alone of the reins would tire her, and of course

there are more chances of mishaps with four horses than with two. In

the latter the leader has no horse at his side to steady him; but if

well trained he will travel straight, and not attempt to turn around

and join the wheeler. Should he do this, and not respond to the reins,

the whip should hit his neck with force sufficient to make him change

his mind.

As a last resort, the wheeler must be turned to follow him, and then

they must both be made to proceed in the direction desired by the

driver. If the leader, instead of being exactly in front of the

wheeler, gets too far to the right, his near rein should be shortened;

but the wheeler must be made to meet him half-way by pulling his off

rein at the same time. In the opposite case the off-lead and

near-wheel reins must be shortened.

[Sidenote: Turning]

To turn a corner, say to the left, with a tandem or a four, the

near-lead rein should be looped by taking up several inches, pushing

it back of the forefinger, and holding it there in this shape with the

thumb. The right hand must be placed on both off reins, to guard

against the turn being made too sharply, and the cart or coach being

brought into contact with the corner. To turn to the right, the

reverse tactics are employed, but it is more difficult to loop the

off rein.

When the corner has been successfully rounded, the right hand should

be taken away and the left thumb raised, thus leaving the horses in a

position to go straight.

In going downhill all the reins should be shortened, and care taken

that the leaders' traces particularly are loose, or they may pull the

wheelers down when these should be holding back the coach.

The wheelers should always, if possible, start and stop the load.

In going uphill the leaders must do their full share, and on the level

each horse must be kept up to his work.

An unnecessary nervous fingering of the reins should be avoided, as,

besides being most unworkmanlike, it irritates the horses.

It is the height of folly for a woman to attempt to drive a tandem or

a four-in-hand until she is thoroughly familiar with one horse and a

pair. She may understand the theory of it, but until she has had some

practice under proper instruction she should not take the reins,

unless some one is near to assist her, or she will endanger not only

her own safety, but jeopard that of those who may accompany her.

FINIS

* * * * *

BLAIKIE'S HOW TO GET STRONG.

How to Get Strong, and How to Stay So. By WILLIAM BLAIKIE.

Illustrated. 16 mo, Cloth, $1 00.

Mr. Blaikie has treated his theme in a practical common-sense way that

appeals at once to the judgment and the understanding. A complete and

healthful system of exercise is given for boys and girls; instructions

are set down for the development of every individual class of muscles,

and there is sound advice for daily exercise for children, young men

and women, business men and consumptives. There are instructions for

home gymnastics, and an easy routine of practice laid out.--_Saturday

Evening Gazette_, Boston.

Every word of it has been tested and confirmed by the author's own

experience. It may be read with interest and profit by all.--_Christian

Instructor_, Chicago.

A successful performance, everything in the line of gymnastic exercise

receiving copious illustrations by pen and pencil. The author's aim is

genuinely philanthropic, in the right sense of the word, and his work

is a useful contribution to the cause of physical culture.--_Christian

Register_, Boston.

Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New York.

_The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part

of the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price._

BLAIKIE'S SOUND BODIES.

Sound Bodies for our Boys and Girls. By WILLIAM BLAIKIE.

With Illustrations. 16 mo, Cloth, 40 cents. A manual of safe

and simple exercises for developing the physical system.

Mr. William Blaikie's new manual cannot fail to receive a warm welcome

from parents and teachers, and should be introduced as a working

text-book into thousands of schools throughout the country.--_Boston

Herald._

A book which ought to be placed at the elbow of every

school-teacher.--_Springfield Union._

The directions are so simple and sensible that they appeal to the

reason of every parent and teacher.--_Philadelphia Press._

The influence of judicious exercise upon mind as well as body cannot

be overestimated, and this will be a safe guide to this end, requiring

no costume nor expensive apparatus.--_Presbyterian_, Philadelphia.

Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New York.

_The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part

of the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price._

* * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Obvious typographical errors were corrected.

Hyphenation variants were retained as in the original.

Illustration List: "Hands and Seat in Rearing ... facing P. 66." The

illustration was actually facing P. 64; it has been moved to P. 66.