SOMETHING MORE ON DRIVING 231
Management, 231.--Stumbling, 232.--Backing,
232.--Rearing and Kicking, 234.--Rein under Tail,
236.--Bolting and Running, 238.--Crowded
Driveways, 239.--Road Courtesy, 241.--Tandems and Teams,
243.--Reins, 244.--Unruly Leader, 245.--Turning, 246.
Illustrations
CORRECT POSITION _Facing p._ 24
INCORRECT POSITION " 26
INCORRECT LEFT LEG AND HEEL 43
CORRECT LEFT LEG AND HEEL 44
INCORRECT RIGHT THIGH AND KNEE 46
CORRECT RIGHT THIGH AND KNEE 47
CORRECT KNUCKLES, SIDE VIEW 50
INCORRECT POSITION OF HANDS 51
HANDS IN GOOD FORM, FRONT VIEW 52
SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE, FRONT VIEW 54
SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE, SIDE VIEW 55
REINS IN TWO HANDS, SNAFFLE OUTSIDE,
CURB INSIDE _Facing p._ 56
POSITION OF REINS AND HANDS IN JUMPING,
CURB OUTSIDE, SNAFFLE INSIDE 57
REINS IN TWO HANDS, CURB OUTSIDE, SNAFFLE
INSIDE, SIDE VIEW 58
HANDS AND SEAT IN REARING _Facing p._ 66
CROP 114
A GOOD SPUR 115
TAKING OFF _Facing p._ 124
ABOUT TO LAND " 126
DOUBLE BRIDLE FOR GENERAL USE " 202
CORRECT SADDLE 205
UNDESIRABLE SADDLE 206
SAFETY STIRRUP, CLOSED 209
SAFETY STIRRUP, OPEN 210
A WELL-BALANCED CART _Facing p._ 220
POSITION IN TANDEM DRIVING " 244
I
A WORD TO PARENTS
Riding has been taken up so generally in recent years by the mature
members of society that its espousal by the younger element is quite
in the natural order of events. We can look upon the declaration of
Young America for sport with supreme gratification, as it argues well
for the generation to come, but we should not lose sight of the fact
that its benefits may be more than counterbalanced by injudiciously
forcing these tastes. That there is danger of this is shown by the
tendency to put girls on horseback at an age much too tender to have
other than harmful results.
It is marvellous that a mother who is usually most careful in guarding
her child's safety should allow her little one to incur the risks
attendant upon riding (which are great enough for a person endowed
with strength, judgment, and decision) without proper consideration of
the dangers she is exposed to at the time, or a realization of the
possible evil effects in the future.
[Sidenote: Dangers of Early Riding]
Surely parents do not appreciate what the results may be, or they
would never trust a girl of eight years or thereabouts to the mercy of
a horse, and at his mercy she is bound to be. No child of that age, or
several years older, has strength sufficient to manage even an unruly
pony, which, having once discovered his power, is pretty sure to take
advantage of it at every opportunity; and no woman is worthy the
responsibilities of motherhood who will permit her child to make the
experiment.
Even if no accident occurs, the knowledge of her helplessness may so
frighten the child that she will never recover from her timidity. It
is nonsense to say she will outgrow it; early impressions are never
entirely eradicated; and should she in after-life appear to regain her
courage, it is almost certain at a critical moment to desert her, and
early recollections reassert themselves.
The vagaries of her own mount are not the only dangers to which the
unfortunate child is exposed.
Many accidents come from collisions caused by some one else's horse
bolting; and it is not to be expected, when their elders often lose
their wits completely, that shoulders so young should carry a head
cool enough to make escape possible in such an emergency.
It is a common occurrence to hear parents inquiring for a "perfectly
safe horse for a child."
Such a thing does not exist, and the idea that it does often betrays
one into trusting implicitly an animal which needs perhaps constant
watching. If fresh or startled, the capers of the most gentle horse
will not infrequently create apprehension, because totally unexpected.
On the other hand, if he is too sluggish to indulge in any expressions
of liveliness, he is almost sure to require skilful handling and
constant urging to prevent his acquiring a slouching gait to which it
is difficult to rise.
A slouching horse means a stumbling one, and, with the inability of
childish hands to help him recover his balance, he is likely to fall.
Supposing the perfect horse to be a possibility--a girl under sixteen
has not the physique to endure without injury to her health such
violent exercise as riding. From the side position she is forced to
assume, there is danger of an injured spine, either from the unequal
strain on it or from the constant concussion, or both.
If a mother can close her eyes to these dangers, insisting that her
child shall ride, a reversible side-saddle is the best safeguard that
I know of against a curved spine; but it only lessens the chances of
injury, and is by no means a sure preventive, although it has the
advantage of developing both sides equally.
Another evil result of beginning too young is that if she escapes
misadventures and does well, a girl is sure to be praised to such an
extent that she forms a most exaggerated idea of her prowess in the
saddle. By the time she is sixteen she is convinced that there is no
room for improvement, and becomes careless, lapsing into many of her
earlier faults. Parents should guard against this. It is often their
affection which permits them to see only the good points of their
daughter's riding, and their pride in her skill leads to undue
flattery, which she is only too willing to accept as her due.
Later I shall mention some of the principles a young rider should
acquire, and it is the duty of those who have put her in the saddle
when too young to judge for herself to see that she follows them
correctly. The necessity of riding in good form cannot be too firmly
impressed on her mind. One often hears: "Oh, I only want to ride a
little in the Park; so don't bother me about form. I ride for pleasure
and comfort, not work"--all of which is wrong; for, whether in the
Park, on the road, in the country, or in the hunting-field, nothing
is of more importance than to ride in good form. To do so is to ride
easily, being in the best position to manage the horse, and therefore
it is also to ride safely.
[Sidenote: Vanity]
The desire to attract attention often induces women to ride. Young
girls soon learn to do likewise, and their attempts at riding for the
"gallery" by kicking the horse with the heel, jerking its mouth with
the curb, that she may impress people with her dashing appearance, as
the poor tormented animal plunges in his endeavors to avoid the
pressure, are lamentable and frequent sights in many riding-schools.
Objectionable as this is in an older person, it is doubly so in a
child, from whom one expects at least modesty instead of such boldness
as this betokens. It is to be hoped that those in authority will
discourage her attempts at circus riding, and teach her that a quiet,
unobtrusive manner will secure her more admirers than an air of
bravado.
II
GIRLS ON HORSEBACK
[Sidenote: Hints to Mothers]
Notwithstanding these numerous reasons to the contrary, mothers will
undoubtedly continue to imperil the life and welfare of children whom
it is their mission to protect, and, such being the case, a few
directions as to the best and least dangerous course to pursue may be
of service to them.
Sixteen is the earliest age at which a girl should begin to ride, as
she is then strong enough to control her mount, has more judgment, is
better able to put instruction into practice, more amenable to reason,
and more attentive to what is told her. If the parents' impatience
will not admit of waiting until this desirable period, it is their
duty to see that the child has every advantage that can facilitate her
learning, and to assure her such safety as is within their power.
[Sidenote: The Beginner's Horse]
A common theory is that any old screw, if only quiet, will do for a
beginner. Nothing could be more untrue. The horse for a novice should
have a short but square and elastic trot, a good mouth, even
disposition, and be well-mannered; otherwise the rider's progress will
be greatly impeded. Even if the child is very young, I think it is a
mistake to put her on a small pony for her first lessons, as its gaits
are so often uneven, interfering with all attempts at regular rising
to the trot.
Ponies are also more liable to be tricky than horses, and, from the
rapidity of their movements, apt to unseat and frighten a beginner.
They are very roguish, and will bolt across a road without any reason,
or stand and kick or rear for their own amusement; and, being so quick
on their feet, their various antics confuse a child so that she loses
her self-possession and becomes terrified. It is just as bad to go to
the other extreme, as a large, long-gaited horse will tire the muscles
of the back, and, if combined with sluggish action, require twice the
exertion needed for a free traveller. Furthermore, it destroys the
rhythm of the movement by making the time of her rise only half as
long as necessary, thus giving her a double jolt on reaching the
saddle.
Having secured the right sort of horse, the saddle should be chosen
with great care.
[Sidenote: Costuming]
It is a shame that little girls are made to ride in the ill-fitting
habits seen half the time. They must set properly, or the best riders
will be handicapped and appear at a disadvantage. A child's skirt
should not wrinkle over the hips more than a woman's, nor should it
ruck up over the right knee, exposing both feet, while the wind
inflates the superfluous folds. Above all things, a girl should not
lace nor wear her habit bodice tight, as no benefit can possibly be
derived from riding with the lungs and ribs compressed.
[Sidenote: Preparatory Lessons]
It often happens that a child is put into the saddle before she has
had the opportunity of becoming familiar with a horse, either by
visiting it in its stall or going about it when in the stable. A more
harmful mistake could not be made; the child is likely to be afraid of
the animal the first time she is placed on its back, and nothing so
interferes with tuition as terror. Many of the difficulties of
instructing a little girl will be overcome if her familiarity with the
horse she is to ride has given her confidence in him. She should
frequently be taken to the stable, and encouraged to give him oats or
sugar from her hand, and to make much of him. Meanwhile whoever is
with her must watch the animal, and guard against anything which might
startle the child. She may be lifted on to his back; and if he is
suitable to carry her, he will stand quietly, thus assuring her of his
trustworthiness and gaining her affection.
Before being trusted on a horse, a beginner should have the theory of
its management explained to her; and here is another drawback to
infantile equestrianism, as a young mind cannot readily grasp the
knowledge. Nevertheless, she must be made to understand the necessity
of riding from balance, instead of pulling herself up by the horse's
mouth, and be shown the action of the curb chain on the chin, that she
may realize why the snaffle should be used for ordinary purposes, so
that in case of an emergency she may have the curb to fall back upon.
She must know that if she pulls against him, the horse will pull
against her, and therefore she must not keep a dead bearing on his
mouth. Unyielding hands are the almost invariable result of riding
before realizing the delicate manipulation a horse's mouth requires. A
light feeling on the curb and a light touch of the whip will show her
how to keep the horse collected, instead of allowing him to go in a
slovenly manner.
She must not try to make the horse trot by attempting to rise. Until
the animal is trotting squarely she should sit close to the saddle,
instead of bobbing up and down, as he jogs or goes unevenly at first.
When wishing to canter, in place of tugging at the reins, clucking,
and digging the animal in the ribs with her heel, the child should be
told to elevate her hands a trifle, and touch him on the shoulder with
the whip.
No habit is more easily formed than that of clucking to a horse, and
it is a difficult one to cure. It is provocative of great annoyance to
any one who is near, and who may be riding a high-spirited animal, as
it makes him nervous and anxious to go, for he cannot tell whether the
signal is meant for him or not, and springs forward in response, when
his owner has perhaps just succeeded in quieting him. Thus can one
make one's self an annoyance to others near by, in a manner which
might so easily have been avoided in the beginning.
After being familiarized with such rudimentary ideas of horsemanship,
comes the time for putting them into practice.
[Sidenote: Instructors]
It is a pity that there are not more competent instructors in the
riding-schools, for it is of great importance to begin correctly; to
find a teacher, however, who possesses thorough knowledge of the
subject is, unfortunately, rare. Their inefficiency is amply
demonstrated by the specimens of riding witnessed every day in the
Park; and either their methods, if they pretend to have any, must be
all wrong, or they are but careless and superficial mentors, as the
results are so often far from satisfactory.
There are, to be sure, plenty of teachers who ride well themselves,
but that is a very different matter from imparting the benefit of
their knowledge and experience to others. With the best intentions in
the world, they may fail to make their pupils show much skill in the
saddle. Skill, and the power of creating it in the pupil, is an
unusual combination.
[Sidenote: Balance]
If a young girl is to ride, she should be put in the saddle and not
permitted to touch the reins. Her hands may rest in her lap, and the
horse should be led at a walk, while the teacher shows her the
position she must try to keep, and tells her what she must do when the
pace is increased. As she becomes used to the situation, and
understands the instructions, the horse may be urged into a slow trot,
she being made to sit close, without, at first, any attempt at rising.
Then a quiet canter may be given her, but on no account should the
child be allowed to clutch at anything to assist in preserving her
balance. It is that she shall not rely on the horse's mouth for
balance that I have advocated keeping the reins from her, and it is a
plan which men and women would do well to adopt. Dependence on the
reins is one of the commonest faults in riding, and every one should
practise trotting (and even jumping, if the horse be tractable) with
folded arms, while the reins are left hanging on the animal's neck,
knotted so they will not fall too low. If the importance of riding
from balance above the waist were more generally recognized, the seat
would of necessity be firmer, the hands lighter, and horses less
fretful.
[Sidenote: Hands]
Too much emphasis cannot be put on the importance of good hands. Good
hands are hands made so by riding independently of the reins.
Intuitive knowledge of the horse's intentions, sympathy and
communication with him, which are conveyed through the reins in a
manner too subtle for explanation, must accompany light hands to make
them perfect. Such qualities are absolutely impossible with heavy
hands, which are incapable of the necessary delicate manipulation of
the horse's mouth. Light hands, therefore, should be cultivated first,
and experience may bring the rest. A child, beginning as I have
advised, will early have this instilled into her mind, and not be
obliged to overcome heavy hands when from experience she has learned
their disadvantages.
After sitting close to the trot and the canter, the beginner must be
told to rise to the trot. At first she will find it difficult to make
her effort correspond to the action of the horse's fore-legs, but,
having once caught the motion, she will soon have no trouble in rising
regularly. When she rises correctly and without much effort, the reins
may be given her. A snaffle will be the best to use until she is sure
of not letting them slip through her fingers, or of not interfering
with the horse's mouth. She should hold the reins in both hands, as
this lessens the probability of sitting askew, although as she becomes
more certain of her seat she may transfer them to the left hand, and
carry a whip or crop in the right.
If a double bridle has been substituted for the snaffle, the
instructor must show the child that the left snaffle rein goes outside
of her little finger, the left curb between the little and third
fingers, the right curb between the second and third fingers, and the
right snaffle between the first and second.
[Illustration: CORRECT POSITION]
Now, as the child begins to have confidence in herself, is the time to
guard against the formation of bad habits, which would later, if
uncorrected, be difficult to eradicate.
If parents will take the trouble to make an impartial criticism of
their daughter's riding, they can aid her by insisting upon her doing
as she ought, which is beyond the authority of the riding-master.
[Sidenote: Position]
They should see that her body is held erect, her shoulders squarely to
the front and thrown back, head up, chin held back, arms hanging
straight to the elbows, hands low and close together, her right knee
immovable, as from there she must rise. Her left leg must be held
quiet, and the heel away from the horse, the ball of the foot resting
on the stirrup; but she must be kept from placing too much reliance on
that support, by practising without it every time she rides, taking
care that, in relinquishing that aid, she does not instead take hold
of the horse's mouth.
[Illustration: INCORRECT POSITION]
[Sidenote: Management]
As the most trustworthy mount will at times be frisky or make a
mistake, a child should be prepared for such a contingency, and know
how to meet it. If a horse stumbles, she must sit well back and pull
his head up. In rearing, the reins must be left loose and the body
thrown forward. A tendency to back must be met with a sharp crack of
the whip. In shying, she must try to sit close, and in case of a
runaway she should understand that no good will come of throwing
herself off. To stick close and try to direct him is all she can do,
for she cannot hope to stop him when once started. If a horse falls
with her, it is best to try and hold on to the reins, as then he
cannot reach her with his heels; but if she cannot succeed in doing
this, she must endeavor to get clear of him and as far away as
possible, to avoid being rolled on or trampled upon as he makes his
effort to get up.
When I consider the trials and dangers she must pass through, a girl
who is allowed to ride before she is sixteen has my sympathy, while I
look with indignation on the mothers who thus thoughtlessly expose
children to all the evils attendant upon a too early attempt at
riding.
III
BEGINNING TO RIDE
That riding is increasing in popularity is clearly attested by the
crowded bridle-path of Central Park. It is greatly to be hoped,
however, that with its growth in public favor a more than superficial
knowledge of horsemanship will be sought for by those who desire to
experience all the pleasure which may be derived from this sport.
Women especially, laboring as they do under the disadvantages of a
side-saddle and imperfectly developed muscles, should try to follow
the most efficacious means of managing their horses, a result best
attained by riding in good form.
[Sidenote: Form]
Even those who consider themselves first-class horsewomen, and who are
undoubtedly competent to manage an unruly animal, often have defects
in form which destroy the grace and ease of their appearance, and
prevent them, in case of an emergency, from employing the full amount
of power of which they are capable. Besides this, there are so many
benefits to be derived from the exercise--if one will take it in a
common-sense manner--that every endeavor should be made to extract
from it the full amount of good.
This cannot be done with any undue strain on the muscles arising from
either a poor saddle, a back bent almost double, the arms nearly
pulled out by improper handling of the horse's mouth, or with that
abomination--a tight waist. Sense in dressing and attention to form
are the two indispensable attributes by which women can make riding a
means to improved health. Under such conditions all the organs are
stimulated, and good digestion, an increased appetite, quieted nerves,
better spirits, and sound sleep follow. With such advantages in sight,
it is strange that more of an effort is not made to bring about these
results by overcoming bad habits.
[Sidenote: Insufficient Training]
In most instances the faults come either from improper instruction, or
vanity which will not permit or heed criticism. If her horse has been
docile, and refrained from any attempt to throw her, a woman is
sometimes so impressed with her skill that after a few lessons she no
longer regards the advice of her instructor, and thinks she is beyond
the necessity of heeding his admonitions. Having acquired so little
knowledge, she will soon have numerous objectionable peculiarities in
form, resulting from her imperfect conception of horsemanship.
Occasionally, too, a woman considers herself "a born rider, with a
natural seat," and the result of this belief is a combination of
pitiful mistakes, when, had her taste for the sport been properly
trained and cultivated, instead of being allowed to run wild, she
would probably have become a rider. There might yet remain hope of her
acquiring a seat could she be convinced that there really is some
knowledge on the subject that she has not yet mastered.
In reference to those who have been taught by incompetent masters, a
great deal is to be said, both to enable them to adopt the right way,
and to prevent those who are desirous of learning from falling into
their mistakes.
[Sidenote: Mounting]
Unfortunately it is almost impossible for a woman to mount without
assistance, unless she be very tall and her horse small. In this case
she can reach the stirrup with her foot, and pull herself up by the
saddle. Sometimes the stirrup can be let down and used to mount with,
then drawn up when seated in the saddle. But this can only be done
when the stirrup leather buckles over the off flap, which is not
usual. Another method is to lead the horse to a fence or wall, climb
that, and jump on to his back; but all these methods require a very
quiet horse, and even then are not always practicable.
It is advisable to learn to mount from the ground as well as from a
block. This is done by placing the right hand containing whip and
reins on the upper pommel, the left foot, with the knee bent, in the
clasped hands of the attendant, the left hand on his shoulder, and, at
a signal, springing from the right foot and straightening the left
leg.
Nine out of ten women, after mounting, first carefully adjust the
habit, and have the stirrup or girths tightened before putting the
knee over the pommel, while some even button their gloves before; and,
as a secondary consideration, when everything else has been seen to,
they take up the reins, which have been loose on the horse's neck. He
might easily wrench himself from the groom at his head, and without
her hold on the pommel she would fall heavily to the ground; or if she
were seated, but without reins, the horse might bolt into a tree, a
wall, or another horse. She would probably grasp the first rein at
hand, perhaps the curb, and then the horse might rear dangerously, and
if she did not relax her hold on his mouth at once would be likely to
fall backwards with her--the worst thing that can happen to a woman on
a horse. All this may be avoided by taking the reins before mounting,
and upon touching the saddle, instantly putting the right knee over
the pommel. The reins should then be transferred to the left hand,
with the snaffle on the outside, and the curb inside, but loose. It
will then be the proper time to arrange the skirt and the stirrup.
[Sidenote: Dismounting]
To dismount she must transfer the reins to her right hand, take her
left foot from the stirrup, and lift her right knee over the upper
pommel, making sure that her skirt is not caught on any part of the
saddle. She must then take a firm hold of the pommel with the hand
containing the reins and the whip, the latter held so that it will not
touch the horse. If there is some one to assist her she may reach out
her left arm, and by this she can be steadied as she dismounts. In
jumping down she should keep hold of the pommel and turn slightly, so
that as she lands she is facing the horse, ready to notice and guard
against signs of kicking or bolting. Until she is fairly on the ground
she must not let go of the reins or the pommel, for should the horse
start she might be dragged with her head down, if her skirt or her
foot caught, and without the reins she could not stop him.
[Sidenote: Stirrup]
It is well to discard the stirrup for some time during each ride,
first at the canter, then at the trot, to make sure that too much
weight is not rested on this support, and that the rise is from the
right knee. If too much dependence is placed on the stirrup the seat
is sure to be too far to the left, unless the leather is too short,
when the body will be as much too far to the right, instead of
directly on top of the horse.
If these directions are observed, a very firm seat will be the result,
which gives a confidence that enables one to be thoroughly flexible
above the waist without fear of going off, and dispels a dread that
often accounts for a stiff or crouching position. A test as to whether
one is sitting sufficiently close in the canter is to put a
handkerchief on the saddle, and note if the seat is firm enough to
keep it there.
IV
IN THE SADDLE
[Illustration: INCORRECT LEFT LEG AND HEEL]
[Sidenote: Below the Waist]
The first impulse of a novice is to grasp the horse with her left
heel, while the leg is bent back from the knee so that it almost
reaches his flank. Instead of this, the leg from the knee, which
should not be more than half an inch below the pommel, must hang
naturally in a perpendicular line, and the foot parallel with the
horse, the heel being held away from his side and slightly depressed,
the ball of the foot resting on the stirrup. This alters the grip
entirely, and gives the greatest possible purchase, with the knee
firmly in the angle between the pommel and the saddle flap, the thigh
close to the saddle above, and the inside of the calf below, where one
should be able to hold a piece of paper without having it fall out
while trotting. The left foot will, of necessity, remain quiet--a most
desirable point often neglected.
[Illustration: CORRECT LEFT LEG AND HEEL]
Now for the right leg. The first direction usually given is to grasp
the pommel with it. That is all very well, but it leads to a grievous
error. In the endeavor to obey the order, the right knee is pressed
hard to the left--against the pommel, it is true, but in such a manner
that there is considerable space between the leg and the saddle,
extending from the knee half-way up the thigh. Thus the rider rises,
owing to her grip being too high, so that a person on the right can
often see the pommel beneath her.
[Illustration: INCORRECT RIGHT THIGH AND KNEE]
The first thing to do is to sit well back on the saddle, with the
shoulders square to the front, and press down from the hip to the knee
until as close to the saddle as possible. Then, when sure that the
knee is down, taking care that it does not leave the saddle in the
slightest degree, grasp the pommel. It is from this knee that one
must rise, and the most essential point is to have it absolutely firm,
with a secure hold on as extended a surface as possible. From the knee
the leg hangs straight, kept close to the horse, with the toe
depressed just enough to avoid breaking the line of the skirt. It is
seldom realized that the right leg below the knee should be held as
firmly against the horse as the left, but such is the case.
[Illustration: CORRECT RIGHT THIGH AND KNEE]
[Sidenote: Above the Waist]
The body should be held erect at all times, the back straight while
rising, instead of appearing to collapse with each movement, or rising
from right to left with a churning motion instead of straight up and
down; shoulders should be level--the right one is inclined to be
higher than the left, as well as farther forward--well back and
equidistant from the horse's ears, chest expanded, and chin held near
the neck, as nothing is more unsightly than a protruding chin. The
arms should fall naturally at the sides, bending inward from the
elbow, but on no account to such an extent as to cause the elbows to
leave the sides or form acute angles. All stiffness should be avoided.
Some difficulty may be experienced at first, though, in attempting to
relax the muscles above the waist while keeping the lower ones firm. A
little practice will accomplish this, and, as a stiff carriage is
most frequently the result of self-consciousness, it will be desirable
to practise where there are no spectators. As the woman becomes more
accustomed to riding she will lose some of her rigidity; but she must
not go to the other extreme and be limp or careless in her way of
holding herself. A woman's body should be at right angles to her
horse's back, neither inclining backwards nor giving evidence of a
tendency to stoop. Her anxiety to comply with these directions may
render her conscious and awkward for a while; but if she will
persevere, bearing them all in mind, they will become as second
nature, and she will follow them naturally and gracefully.
[Sidenote: Hands and Wrists]
The hands should be held about two thirds of the way back between the
right knee and hip, and as low as possible. They should be perfectly
steady, and in rising never communicate the motion of the body to the
horse's mouth. If the right knee is used to rise from, the seat will
not need to be steadied by the reins. In the canter, however, the
hands, as well as the body above the waist, should sway slightly with
the horse's stride, but not more than is necessary; for that, and
rising too high in the trot, give an appearance of exertion not
compatible with grace.
[Illustration: CORRECT KNUCKLES, SIDE VIEW]
[Illustration: INCORRECT POSITION OF HANDS]
The wrists should be bent so that the knuckles point straight ahead
with the thumbs up, thus giving the horse's mouth play from the wrist,
instead of, as is often the case, from the shoulder, the former
admitting of much greater delicacy of handling, and the give-and-take
movement being not so easily observed. Most teachers instruct a pupil
to keep her finger-nails down, but this also necessitates all movement
coming from the shoulder, or else sticking out the elbows.
[Illustration: HANDS IN GOOD FORM, FRONT VIEW]
[Sidenote: Reins]
Many hold their reins in the left hand, allowing the right to hang at
the side. This does not look well, and in case of an emergency, such
as stumbling, the hand being so far from the reins precludes the
possibility of rendering the quick assistance required. The reins
should be held in the left hand, but the right should be on them,
lightly feeling the horse's mouth, thereby anticipating his movements.
The left snaffle-rein should go outside of the little finger, the left
curb between the little and third fingers, the right curb between the
third and middle fingers, and the right snaffle between the middle and
first fingers. They must all be brought through the hand, over the
second joint of the first finger, where they must lie flat and in
order, held there by the thumb. The third finger of the right hand
should rest on the right snaffle, leaving the first and second free
to use the curb if required, thus giving equal bearing on all four
reins.
[Illustration: SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE, FRONT VIEW]
If the use of the curb alone is wanted, the third finger of the right
should release the right snaffle, the first and second retaining their
hold on the curb, and the desired result will be produced.
[Illustration: SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE, SIDE VIEW]
If only the snaffle is desired, it may be brought to bear more
strongly by keeping hold of the right rein with the third finger of
the right hand, and reaching over on the left snaffle with the first
finger.
When this method is pursued there is no necessity for shifting the
reins or hauling at them, and constantly changing their position and
length. When a rein has slipped through the fingers of the left hand,
instead of pushing it back from in front it should be pulled to the
proper length from back of the left hand.
[Illustration: REINS IN TWO HANDS, SNAFFLE OUTSIDE, CURB INSIDE]
It is quite correct, though inconvenient, to hold the reins in both
hands; but the hands should be held close together, with the thumbs
up, and always on the reins to prevent slipping. The little fingers
then separate the reins, the left snaffle being outside of the left
little finger, the left curb between the little and third fingers,
with the reins drawn over the first finger; the right snaffle outside
of the right little finger, the right curb between the little and
third fingers, and these also drawn over the first finger, in both
instances held by the thumbs. In this way the right reins may quickly
be placed in the left hand by inserting the middle finger of the left
hand between them without displacing the others. Sometimes the ends
of the left reins are passed over the first finger of the right hand
as well as of the left one, and carried on past the little finger, the
same being done to the right reins, thus giving additional purchase
should the horse pull.
[Illustration: POSITION OF REINS AND HANDS IN JUMPING, CURB OUTSIDE,
SNAFFLE INSIDE]
It is well to know several ways of holding the reins, and to practise
them all. For instance, the positions of the snaffle and curb may be
reversed; indeed, many expert riders always hold their reins with the
curb outside and the snaffle inside, especially in jumping, where the
curb is not used, and therefore requires a less prominent place in the
hand.
[Illustration: REINS IN TWO HANDS, CURB OUTSIDE, SNAFFLE INSIDE, SIDE
VIEW]
Another position of the reins is to have the middle finger of the left
hand separate the snaffle and the little finger the curb, both right
reins being above the left ones. However, unless a horse is
bridle-wise this plan is not a convenient one, because the right and
left reins alternate. A horse so trained may be guided by a turn of
the wrist. To turn him to the left the hand should be moved in that
direction, pressing the right reins against his neck, and to go to the
right the hand should be carried to that side, the thumb turned
downward, thus pressing the left reins against the horse's neck.
V
EMERGENCIES
Although she may ride in good form, and, when her horse goes quietly,
feel at home in the saddle, no woman can be considered proficient
until she is prepared for any emergency, and knows how to meet it.
[Sidenote: Eagerness to Start]
Many horses show restlessness while being mounted, some carrying it to
such an extent as to back and rear or swerve most unpleasantly. The
groom at his head should hold him lightly but firmly by the snaffle,
or, better still, the cheeks of the bridle; not lugging or jerking at
him, but endeavoring to soothe him. If the horse swerves from her, he
should be made to stand against a wall. The woman must get settled in
the saddle as expeditiously as she can, not taking any unnecessary
time in the arrangement of her skirt, which might augment the animal's
uneasiness. Once mounted she must walk the horse quietly for a few
minutes, using the snaffle only, as his restlessness may have come
from expecting the spur on starting, as is customary with the horses
of those who care for display rather than good manners. Before long
she should dismount, and, at a different place, repeat the lesson
without fighting him, even should he fail to show much progress at
first. If he rears, the attendant should let go of his head until he
comes down; then, before starting, try to make him stand a few
moments. Each time the rider mounts she should increase the period of
his standing, doing it firmly while talking to him, but without
force or harshness, and presently he will obey as a matter of course
and without an idea of resistance.
[Sidenote: Shyers]
The most common fault of a horse is shying, and though no one who has
a secure seat should be inconvenienced thereby, its treatment needs
some discrimination. Shying often arises from defective vision. If,
however, the animal's eyes are in good condition, it may come from
timidity, but in either case the horse should be soothed and coaxed up
to the object of his aversion and shown its harmlessness. If it is
merely a trick, then playing with his mouth and speaking in a warning
tone when approaching anything likely to attract his notice will
usually make him go straight. As a rule the whip should not be used,
because the horse may learn to associate a blow with the object he
has shied at, and the next time he sees it is likely to bolt in order
to avoid the impending chastisement--thus going from bad to worse.
[Sidenote: Stumblers]
For the same reason, I object to a horse being punished for stumbling.
Disagreeable as it is, the fault usually comes from defective muscular
action or conformation, or from not being kept collected by his rider.
It is not fair to punish the horse for these causes. The thing to do
is to sit well back and give the reins a sharp pull to bring his head
up, and then keep him going up to the bit, for if the rider is
careless the horse will follow her example.
[Illustration: HANDS AND SEAT IN REARING]
[Sidenote: Rearers]
A rearing horse is not fit for a woman to ride. If she finds herself
on one which attempts it, she must throw her weight forward and a
little to the right, because she can lean farther forward on this
than on the left side, to help the horse preserve his balance, as well
as to prevent being struck by his head. If necessary she can clutch
his mane, but on no account must she touch his mouth in the slightest
degree. As he comes down, a vigorous kick with the heel, a shake of
the snaffle, and a harsh exclamation may send him along. I cannot
advocate a woman's striking him, for if he has a temper, it may arouse
it to such an extent that he will throw himself back.
[Sidenote: Plungers]
Those with a strong seat have no reason to fear a horse that plunges,
if it does not develop into rearing or bucking. They should sit close
and urge the horse to a faster pace, as it stands to reason that if he
is kept going briskly he cannot so easily begin his antics as he could
at a slower gait.
[Sidenote: Buckers]
A woman is seldom if ever required to ride a horse which bucks, and if
he is known to do it viciously she had better not try any experiments
with him, as he will surely exhaust her in a fight. By bucking I do
not mean the mild form of that vice which is usually found under that
name in the East. Here an animal that plunges persistently and comes
down hard is said to buck; while if his head is lowered, that settles
the question in the minds of those ignorant of what a real bucking
horse is capable. In encountering the Eastern variety of this species,
the woman must elevate the horse's head, sit well back, and firmly
too, for even the mild form of bucking is not easy to sustain
undisturbed.
The genuine article, the real Western bucker, is quite another
matter. Newspapers have published instances of women who have managed
to stay on one through all his various and blood-stirring antics; but
such cases are in fact unknown outside of Buffalo Bill's Wild West
Show, and there the animals have been taught to perform to order. When
the bronco bucks, he gives no preliminary warning by harmless
plunging; he simply throws his head down between his knees, humps his
back like a cat, and proceeds to business. He jumps into the air,
coming down to one side of where he started, with all four feet
bunched and legs stiffened, only to bound into space again. An
occasional squeal adds to the general hilarity of the scene, and the
alacrity with which that meek-looking mustang can land and go into the
air again would astonish one not accustomed to the sight.
[Sidenote: Pullers]
In riding a puller, his head must be kept in a correct position,
neither low nor high, by lightly feeling his mouth until he gives to
the motion. Should he have his head up and nose out, elevating the
hands and drawing the snaffle across the bars sometimes causes the bit
to bear in such a manner that the horse will drop his nose, and at
that moment an effort must be made to keep it there. This method is
exceptional, however, and should be resorted to only when other means
fail, and the horse's head is so high, with the nose protruding, that
the bit affords no control. Ordinarily, the hands should be low, one
on each side of the withers, and quietly feeling the snaffle until he
obeys its signal.
If he pulls with his head down, almost between his knees, the curb
must not be touched, but the snaffle should be felt and the hands held
higher than usual and a little farther forward, playing with his
mouth. This may make him raise his head; but if not, then several
determined pulls, yielding the hand between them, given without temper
and with a few soothing words, may stop him. If he has the bit between
his teeth, quick give-and-take movements will probably surprise him
into releasing it. It is useless for a woman to try to subdue him by
force.
It is well to have a horse's teeth examined for pulling, as one which
has become displaced or sensitive causes excessive pain, and often
results in this habit. When a horse shows a tendency to kick, by
putting his ears back or a peculiar wriggle of the body, his head must
instantly be pulled up and kept there, for in that position he will
not attempt it.
[Sidenote: Runaways]
A runaway nearly always frightens a woman so that she loses her head.
Composure will best enable her to escape without accident. As the
horse starts she must keep her heel well away from his side and her
hands down, and instantly begin sawing his mouth with the reins; then
a succession of sharp jerks and pulls should be resorted to--never a
dead pull--and possibly he may be brought down.
Once well in his stride, no woman can stop a horse. She must then be
governed by circumstances, and, if in a crowd or park, try to keep him
clear of all objects, and not exhaust herself and excite the horse by
screaming. Some one will try to catch him; and as a terrific jerk will
be the result, she must brace herself for it. If the horse runs where
there is open country, and she is sure his running is prompted by
vice, not fright, she should urge him on when he tires and keep him
going up-hill or over heavy ground if possible, using the whip freely,
and not permit him to stop until he is completely done.
There are some good riders who advise pulling a horse into a fence to
stop him, but there is always a chance of his attempting to jump it,
while, as the rider tries to prevent this, the horse may be thrown out
of his balance or stride and fall over the fence. If he is driven at a
high wall or other insurmountable obstruction the horse will stop so
suddenly that the rider is likely to be precipitated over the animal's
head, even if she have a good seat. Again, the horse may miscalculate
the distance and run into the object, perhaps seriously hurting
himself and his rider. If this method is to be employed, a grassy or
sandy embankment should be chosen, if possible, as there will then be
fewer chances of injury.
Others believe in throwing the horse, which may be done by letting him
have his head for a few strides, then suddenly giving a violent tug at
the reins. If he can thus be made to cross his legs, he will go down.
Another way is for a woman to put all her strength into pulling one
rein, and if she can use enough force he may be twisted so that he
will lose his balance and fall. Then the danger is that a woman will
not get clear of him before he regains his footing and starts off, in
which case she might better have remained on his back than risk being
dragged at his heels. If some one else's horse is running instead of
the one she is on, and it is coming towards her, a woman should
instantly, but quietly, wheel her horse, and keep him as much to one
side of the road as possible; and if she is sure of her control over
him, a brisk canter will be the safest gait. Thus, if the runaway
strikes her horse, it will not be with the same force as it would had
they met from opposite directions. Besides, it is almost impossible to
tell which way a frightened horse may turn, and in endeavoring to
avoid him, if they are facing, a collision may result.
If a horse falls, from crossing his legs for instance, to keep hold of
the reins must be the first thought, and then to get clear of him as
quickly as possible and out of his way if he seems likely to roll. If
the rider retains her hold on the reins, he cannot kick her, as his
head will be towards her; nor can he get away, leaving her to walk
home.
[Sidenote: Punishment]
Punishment of a horse should never be begun without the certainty that
what has given displeasure is really his fault, wilfully committed.
Even then a battle should always be avoided, if possible, for it is
better to spend a half-hour, or even much more, gently but firmly
urging a horse to obedience than to fight him. It sometimes drives him
to such a state of excitement and temper that the effects of it will
be perceptible for days, sometimes weeks, in a nervous, highly strung
animal, and he will, perhaps, prepare for a combat whenever the same
circumstances again arise. That which comes from misconception on the
part of the horse is often treated as though it were vice, and such
unjust chastisement, without accomplishing its object, bewilders and
frightens the unfortunate victim. Therefore one should know positively
that it is obstinacy or vice, not dulness or timidity, which has made
the horse apparently resist his rider's authority. A horse with much
temper may only be made worse by the punishment he undoubtedly
deserves; therefore, forbearance and ingenuity should be exercised to
bring him into submission. Discipline must be administered at the time
of insubordination, or it loses its meaning to the horse. It is folly
to postpone punishing him, for then he fails to connect it with the
act of resistance which has provoked it.
Another great mistake, and one to be strongly censured, is that of
venting one's impatience or temper on the poor brute, which may be
doing its best to understand the clumsy and imperfect commands of a
cruel taskmaster.
Having calmly decided that the horse requires punishment, it should be
given in a firm and temperate manner, no more severity being employed
than is necessary. However, the whip should fall with force and
decision, or it is worse than useless; and if a moderate amount of
whipping or spurring does not result in victory, it must be increased,
as, once begun, the fight must end in the conquest of the animal, or
the woman on his back will thenceforth be unable to control him. It
must be done dispassionately and continuously, and no time allowed him
to become more obstinate by a cessation of hostilities when he might
be about to give in. At the first sign of yielding, he should be
encouraged, and the punishment cease, until he has had an opportunity
to do what is desired of him.
While using the whip, the right hand should never be on the reins, as
that necessitates jerking the horse's mouth and hitting from the
wrist, a weak and ineffectual method. The blow should fall well back
of the saddle and with the force given by the full swing of the arm.
A woman usually expends her energy in hitting the saddle-flap, making
some noise, to be sure, but not producing the desired effect.
If these suggestions are followed, there will be comparatively little
trouble in learning to properly handle a horse that he may be kept up
to the mark. Until having laid a solid foundation for one's self, it
is useless to hope to obtain the best results from the horse, which
will surely appreciate and take advantage of any incompetency on the
part of the rider. Even if not aspiring to more than ordinary park
riding, attention to these hints will add so materially to the comfort
and safety of both horse and woman that it will be a subject of wonder
to the latter how she could have found the wrong way pleasant enough
to admit of any hesitation in giving the correct one at least a fair
trial.
VI
CHOOSING A MOUNT
Much of a woman's comfort will depend on the horse she chooses. She is
too often inclined to procure a showy one, which pleases the eye, even
though she cannot control his antics, rather than a trustworthy and
less conspicuous mount.
[Sidenote: An Adviser]
In choosing a horse, she should not rely exclusively on her own
judgment. Few women are aware of the artifices resorted to by
dishonest dealers to render presentable some animal which in its
natural condition she would at once reject; therefore she should
enlist the services of some man in whose knowledge of horse-flesh she
has reason to place confidence, and of whose disinterestedness she is
certain. When a horse is found which appears to fulfil her
requirements, she should insist upon a trial of him herself; for,
although he may go well and comfortably with her friend, a woman might
not possess the qualities which had assured success in the former
trial by the man. The horse would recognize the difference, take
advantage of her inexperience or lack of skill, and act as he would
not think of doing under an expert. Furthermore, gaits which would
suit a man are often too hard for a woman, and a horse which he might
think merely went well up to the bit would to her weaker arms seem a
puller.
After being approved of by her friend, the woman should try the animal
herself, outside, alone and in company. If he proves satisfactory, she
should endeavor to have him in her stable for a few days, and during
that time to have him examined by a veterinary surgeon, obtaining his
certificate of the horse's soundness. An animal absolutely sound and
without blemish is a rare sight; but there are many defects which do
not lessen the horse's practical value, although their presence lower
his price, and may enable her to secure something desirable which
would otherwise have been beyond her means.
Such a horse should be accepted only after a thorough examination by
the veterinary, and upon his advice. It is well to avoid purchasing a
horse from a friend, unless one is perfectly familiar with the animal,
as such transactions frequently lead to strained relations, each
thinking bitterly of the other. Some, having pronounced their horse
sound, would take offence should a veterinary be called; while if he
were not consulted the horse might go wrong, and the purchaser would
perhaps think the former owner had disposed of him with that
expectation, or at least knowing the probability of it, yet their
social relations would prevent accusation or explanation. Furthermore,
a difference of opinion as to the price is awkward, and altogether it
requires more tact, discretion, and liberality than most people
possess to make a satisfactory horse-trade with a friend.
Having decided as to whose advice she will take, a woman should not be
influenced by the comments and criticisms of others. If she waits
until all her friends approve of her choice she will never buy a
horse. However, by listening to what the best informed of them say,
she may gain much instruction and knowledge. As a woman may wish to
know what points are desirable in a horse, and what to look for, a
general idea of this may be welcome. It is only by comparison that she
will learn to distinguish whether certain parts are long or short,
normal or excessive, therefore she should critically notice horses at
every opportunity, and observe in what they differ from one another.
[Sidenote: Park Hack]
If a woman could have a Park hack made to order, the following points
would be the most prominent: A horse should always be up to more
weight than he will have to carry; and as, in the Park, appearances
are of importance, a woman should buy a horse on which she will look
well. Much will depend upon her mount being of an appropriate size and
build. A woman of medium size will look her best on a horse of about
15.2. No exact height can be fixed upon, as the present system of
measurement is so incomplete.
[Sidenote: Measurement]
A horse standing 15.2 at the withers, where it is always measured, may
be much higher there than anywhere else, his quarters being
disproportionately low. On the other hand, the withers might be low
and the rump high, giving the strength, power, and stride to a horse
of 15 hands which might be expected in one of several inches higher.
In races and shows it enables low-withered horses to run and compete
against those which, although high at the withers, have not the
posterior conformation to justify their being in the same class. The
more common-sense and accurate method of measurement, if it would only
be generally adopted, is to take the height at the withers and also at
the rump, average it, and call that the size of the horse. For
instance, a horse 15.3 at the withers and 15.2 at the rump should be
registered as measuring 15.2-1/2. The fashionably bred trotting horse
often measures higher at the rump than at the withers, while the
properly proportioned saddle horse should measure as high, or highest,
at the withers.
In a saddle horse there are other points than height to be considered.
If the woman is stout, the horse should be of substantial build, very
compact, and like a cob. If she is slight, she will look best on a
horse of light build and possessed of quality.
In my opinion, three quarters, or a trifle more, thoroughbred blood
makes the pleasantest mount for a woman. Five to seven is a good age
at which to buy a horse, as he will then have been through the early
ailments of young horses and be just entering his prime.
[Sidenote: Conformation]
As to his points, his head should be small and clear-cut, with
delicately pointed ears, prominent eyes, a fine muzzle, full nostrils,
clean-cut angle at the throttle, and the head carried somewhat less
than vertical to the ground; the crest curved, and the neck thin and
supple, but muscular and well set on to broad shoulders. These should
be long and oblique, thus reducing the concussion and making the horse
easier to ride as well as safer, because his forelegs are
proportionately advanced, giving less weight in front of them to cause
a fall should he trip. The true arms (commonly called lower bones of
the shoulders), extend from the points of the shoulders to the elbows,
and should be short, or the forelegs will be placed too far back. The
forearms, extending from the elbows to the knees, should be large and
muscular and rather long. Broad, flat knees are indicative of
strength, and they should have considerably more width than the
forearms or the shanks.
Below the knees and to the fetlocks the legs should be rather short,
flat, deep, and fine, no swelling to prevent one from feeling
distinctly, especially near the fetlocks, the tendons and ligaments
quite separate from the shanks or cannons and the splint-bones. The
fetlock-joints much developed give evidence of overwork, therefore any
undue prominence is not desirable. Long, slanting pasterns give
elasticity to a horse's gait and prevent disagreeable concussion; but
if the length is excessive, there will be too much strain on the back
tendons. The fetlocks reach to the coronet, below which are the feet,
which must be of good shape and absolutely sound.
The thorax must be either broad or deep and full, so that the lungs
and heart may have plenty of room to expand. It should be well
supplied with muscle where the forelegs are joined to it, and these
should be straight, with the feet pointing straight ahead. The toe
should be under the point of the shoulder. High withers are preferred
to low ones, but if they are too high they place a side-saddle at an
uncomfortable angle, which needs an objectionable amount of padding at
the back to rectify the fault. The back should not sink perceptibly,
but it may be somewhat longer in a woman's horse than in a man's, as
her saddle occupies so much more space; but the ribs should be long in
front and short back of the girth, running well up to the hips. This
conformation will prevent the saddle from working forward; a tendency
to slip back may be checked by using a breast-plate.
A horse should be broad across the loins; if these are strong, and the
horse well ribbed up, there will be no unsightly sinking of the flanks
even in front of hips that are broad, as they should be. The thighs
extend from the lower part of the haunches or hips to the
stifle-joints, and these and the haunches are covered with powerful
muscles, which, when well developed, form strong quarters. A
well-placed tail, carried at a correct angle, adds greatly to a
horse's appearance. From the stifles to the hocks are found the lower
thighs, and these should be long and strong. The hocks should be
prominent, clearly defined, and free from all puffiness or swelling.
From the hocks to the fetlocks the leg should descend perpendicularly,
neither bent under him nor back of him. The same rule applies to these
fetlocks as to the fore ones; and the same may be said of the feet,
but the latter are too important to dismiss without further comment.
The hoofs when on the ground should be at an angle of about forty-five
degrees from the toe to the coronet. Any unevenness or protrusions on
the wall of the hoofs, or a sinking-in at the quarters, should be
viewed with suspicion. Breadth is desirable at the heels, and the bars
should not be cut away. The frog should be nearly on a level with the
shoes, and the soles should be slightly concave.
[Sidenote: Hunter]
If a hunter is to be chosen, looks are not of so much importance,
although I like him to be almost if not quite thoroughbred. However,
if the animal can gallop and jump, has good staying qualities and a
strong constitution, a kind disposition and a light mouth, good
manners and plenty of power, he should not be discarded because he
lacks beauty. A large head, ewe neck, ragged hips, rat-tail, poor
coat, and other such ungainly points, are not bad enough to condemn
him if he has the other qualities I have mentioned; and often a
peculiarly shaped animal will out-jump a horse of the most correct
conformation.
[Sidenote: Gait and Manners]
After carefully looking over the horse, a woman should have some one
trot and canter him, to see that his action is what she wants. A Park
hack should have free, easy gaits, with good knee and hock action, and
travel evenly and without brushing, cutting, interfering, dishing, or
showing any such irregularities of gait. She should watch him from in
front, from behind, and at the sides; and, after his trial by a man,
the woman should ride him, and find out what his faults are under the
saddle. His manners should be perfect: no sign of bolting, or
rearing, or other vices; nor should he be a star-gazer, nor lug on the
bit, as a good mouth is very essential to her comfort.
However, if he is green--that is, unaccustomed to his surroundings and
to being ridden--he should not be rejected without a fair trial, to
ascertain whether his cramped gait, shying, and other such failings
are the result of inexperience under the saddle, or are established
traits. The most desirable points are a light but not over-sensitive
mouth, even gait, with swinging (not jerky or shuffling) action, a
kind disposition--with which quality considerable friskiness need not
condemn him--good manners, and freedom from tricks and vices. He
should be practically sound and of correct conformation--a more
valuable attribute for safety and ease than high action.
VII
DRESS
Simplicity is the rule for the habit. It should be of Thibet
cloth--black, dark brown, or blue for winter, tan or a medium shade of
gray for summer. All conspicuous colors and materials are to be
avoided. It is well to have the skirt made of a heavy-weight cloth,
which will help to make it set properly without the assistance of
straps; while the bodice may be of a medium weight of the same cloth,
that it may fit better and be less bulky. For very warm weather in the
country a habit made of heavy gingham or white duck is cool and
comfortable, and will wash. The skirt and bodice may be of the same
material, or a silk or cheviot shirt and leather belt may be worn
with the skirt. A straw sailor-hat completes this convenient
innovation, but it should be reserved for use out of town.
[Sidenote: Skirt]
The skirt should reach only far enough to cover the left foot, and be
too narrow to admit of any flowing folds. Fashion and safety both
demand this. A skittish horse is often frightened by a loose skirt
flapping at his side.
[Sidenote: Safety Skirt]
I should be very glad to see the safety skirt, which is worn in the
hunting-field, adopted in general riding. Its advantages are manifold.
Although it appears the same, less cloth is used, therefore it is
cooler; there is nothing between the pommel and the breeches, thus
improving the hold, and in case of accident it is impossible to be
dragged. There are several kinds in use, but the less complicated the
more desirable it is. The simplest is made like any other skirt,
except that where the pommels come there is a large piece of the cloth
cut out, extending in a circle at the top, and then straight down, at
both sides, so that there is no cloth near the pommels or where it
could catch in case of a fall. This leaves enough to extend under both
legs when in the saddle, and looks like an ordinary one. Under the
right knee, where the skirt is rounded out, a small strip of cloth
buttons from this point on to the piece which is under the leg; this
and an elastic strap on the foot keep it in place; but neither is
strong enough to stand any strain, therefore would not be dangerous in
a fall.
Another pattern has eyelet holes made on each side from where the
cloth has been taken, and round silk elastic laced through them, thus
preventing the possibility of disarrangement. Both of these skirts
loop at the back, and can be kept from appearing unlike others if the
wearer will immediately fasten them on dismounting. An ordinary skirt
may be made safer by having no hem.
[Sidenote: Divided Skirt]
We hear a great deal now of the divided skirt, and the advisability of
women riding astride. The theory is good, as having a leg each side of
the animal gives much greater control over his movements.
For most women, however, it is impracticable, since they cannot sit
down in the saddle and grip with their knees as they should, owing to
the fact that their thighs are rounded, instead of flat like a man's.
It might be possible for a lean and muscular woman to acquire a secure
seat, but not for the average one. Being short is another drawback to
a strong seat against which most of them would have to contend. This
is particularly trying, as so much of her weight is above the waist,
making it difficult to ride from balance, which might otherwise
replace the deficient leverage of the short thigh. Again, if on a
large or broad horse, the constant strain on the muscles necessary
when astride him must be injurious.
Aside from any physical reasons, the position for a woman is, in my
opinion, most ungraceful and undignified, while few of them possess
the strength to profit by the changed seat in forcing the horse up to
his bridle or keeping him collected; and I cannot blame those who
think it open to the charge of impropriety.
[Sidenote: Bodice]
The bodice should be single-breasted, long over the hips, reaching
almost to the saddle in the back, and cut away in front to show a
waistcoat, the upper edge of which makes a finish between the collar
and lapels of the waist and the white collar and Ascot or
four-in-hand. The waistcoat gives more of an opportunity for the
exercise of individual taste. The most desirable, I think, has a white
background, on which is a black, brown, blue, or red check. It may be
all tan or a hunting pink, plain, figured, or striped, so long as too
many colors are not combined; but, as a rule, something quiet and
simple will be the most desirable. In summer a piqué waistcoat is
worn, or something similar, that is light, cool, and will wash. A
black or white cravat always looks well, or one which, without being
glaring, harmonizes with the waistcoat.
[Sidenote: Waistcoat]
Sense, health, and comfort all demand that the waist shall not be
laced to the painful extent endured by many foolish and vain women.
They would let out an inch or two if they could realize that the blood
is forced from their waists to their faces, making them scarlet at any
exertion, while they have difficulty in conversing except in gasps,
and are compelled to walk their horses at frequent intervals to catch
their breath.
[Sidenote: Corsets]
It is so invigorating to feel the lungs expanded by a long, deep
breath, and the blood, quickened by the motion of the horse, coursing
unrestrained through all the veins, while the muscles of the back and
abdomen are allowed full play, that those who go along panting and
aching lose half the beneficial effects of riding, and more pleasure
than they can possibly derive from trying to make people believe that
they have small waists. The corsets are of great importance and must
be of good quality and not very stiff, small bones being used instead
of large ones or steels. They must be short in front and over the
hips, that the movements may not be unnecessarily restricted, or the
skin become raw from rubbing against the ends of the bones. A plain
corset-cover should be worn over them, as the lining of the
habit-waist sometimes discolors the corsets if this precaution is not
taken.
[Sidenote: Boots, Breeches, Tights]
Considerable latitude is permitted a woman in the choice of what she
shall wear under her skirt. Boots and breeches are considered better
form than shoes and trousers; but there is no reason why the latter
should not be used, especially if the shoes lace. Boots and tights,
however, are the most comfortable of all. Breeches are made of
stockinette, re-enforced with chamois skin, and reach half-way down
the calf, where they should button close to the leg--the buttons
being on the left side of each leg, that the right may not be bruised
by the buttons pressing against the saddle. Chamois skin is sometimes
used to make breeches, but it is not very satisfactory. At first they
are soft and pliable, but after being worn a few times they become
stiff and unyielding, and rain will render them hard as boards.
Tan box-cloth gaiters, extending from the instep almost to the knee,
are sometimes worn with breeches and shoes. They are made exactly like
those for men, and take the place of boots. Boots may be of calf-skin
or patent leather, with wrinkled or stiff legs, the tops reaching a
few inches above the bottom of the breeches. In warm weather tan boots
are often worn; but, of whatever variety they may be, they should
always be large, with broad, thick soles and low, square heels.
Trousers are of the same material as the skirt, and are also
re-enforced. Elastic bands passing under the shoes keep the trousers
down. Tights should be of the color of the habit, and fit smoothly
without being stretched. They come in different weights, and either
silk, cotton, or wool may be worn. They should have feet woven on
them, thus doing away with the necessity for all underclothing below
the waist.
When breeches or trousers are worn, tights may advantageously be
substituted for the other usual garments worn under such conditions.
If tights are not worn, whatever replaces them should fit snugly and
be without starch or frills. The stockings should be kept up from the
waist, as garters chafe the knee when it presses the pommel, and
often interfere with the circulation. Some women wear union garments,
which are practically tights extending from the neck to the feet,
taking the place of shirts. However, when a shirt is worn it will be
most comfortable if of a light-weight wool. This absorbs the
perspiration, and is therefore pleasanter to wear than silk, and more
likely to protect from a cold. Outside of this should be the corset.
When it is cold a chamois-skin waist with long sleeves should be worn
under the bodice, as this is much better than a fur cape, which is
often used, and which confines the arms. A covert coat is the most
convenient, but the former is more readily obtained. A wool shirt,
short corsets, plain corset-cover, and tights are all the
underclothing needed for riding. Some women wear a linen shirt, with
collar and cuffs attached, like a man's, except that it is narrowed
at the waist. With this the corset-cover is not needed.
[Sidenote: Collars and Cuffs]
Separate collars and cuffs are more generally used, and the scarf
should be pinned to the collar at the back, as these have a way of
parting company that is most untidy. To make it more certain, a clasp
or pin such as men use to hold a four-in-hand tie in place should
fasten the ends of the scarf to the shirt-front or corset-cover, thus
securing it against slipping.
The cuffs should not be pinned to the sleeve, as the lining of the
coat will be torn, and the pin will catch on the habit and stretch and
roughen it in places. A small elastic band put over a button at the
wrist of the sleeve, and attached to the cuff-button, will answer
every purpose.
[Sidenote: Gloves]
Gauntlets should be discarded, and gloves worn large enough to admit
of the muscles of the hand being used freely. Dogskin of a reddish
shade of tan is the best material for gloves. The stitching is such as
to form slight ridges of the glove itself on the back of the hand, the
red stitches being scarcely perceptible at a little distance. It is
difficult to find women's gloves broad enough for comfort in riding,
and it is a good plan to buy boys' gloves, which give the desired
freedom. They have only one button, an advantage over women's, which
have two or three that are in the way under the cuff.
Should the wrists need more protection from the cold, wristlets may be
worn, as they take up but little room. For cold weather, gloves come
in a softer kid, like chevrette, and have a fleecy lining, very warm,
but too soft and light to make the gloves clumsy. Flowers and jewelry
are decidedly out of place on horseback, and a handkerchief should
never be thrust into the front of the bodice. It should be put in the
slit on the off saddle-flap, or in the pocket at the left side of the
skirt where it opens.
[Sidenote: Hair and Hat]
The hair should be firmly coiled or braided on the neck, and not worn
on top of the head. A top hat is correct, especially on formal
occasions, but it should not be allowed to slip to the back of the
head. However, I prefer usually a derby, as being more comfortable and
looking more business-like. It should be kept on by an elastic which
fastens under the hair. Pins through the crown are an uncalled-for
disfigurement, and a hat may be made just as secure without them. In
fact, they will be of but little use if the hair is not done high. A
large hair-pin on each side should pin the hair over the elastic; and
if the wind or anything else causes the hat to become displaced, it
will not come off entirely, forcing some one to dismount and restore
it to the woman, who cannot get it alone. Hair-pins should be long and
bent half-way up each prong, so that they will not easily slip out.
[Sidenote: Veil]
[Sidenote: Whip or Crop]
When a veil is worn, it should be of black net or gauze, never white
or figured, and the ends should be neatly pinned out of sight, instead
of being allowed to float out behind, like smoke from a steam-engine.
If a whip is carried for use, it should be a substantial stiff one,
held point down, not a flimsy thing that a sound blow will break, nor
should it be made absurd by a bow or tassel being tied to it. If for
style, then a crop is the correct thing, with the lash-end held up.
The handle should be of horn, rather than silver or gold, and the
stick quite heavy and somewhat flexible. Short bamboo sticks are in
favor just now, and are often tipped with gold, and have a gold band a
few inches from the end where it is held.
[Illustration: CROP]
[Sidenote: Spur]
I do not approve of a spur for women, as it is difficult to use it
just right, and its unintentional application often has disastrous
results, while should she be dragged by the foot, it will keep hitting
the horse, urging him faster and faster. In mounting, the spur
sometimes strikes the horse, making him shy just as the rider expects
to reach the saddle, and a nasty fall is the consequence. Where a man
would use it advantageously, a woman cannot produce the same effect,
having it only on one side. Moreover, a horse suitable for her to ride
should not require more than her heel and her whip.
[Illustration: A GOOD SPUR]
Some horses are very cunning, and will shirk their work if they
discover that there is no spur to urge them, but such may be taught
that a whip in skilful hands is quite as effective. In a crowd a spur
is of value, as it may be applied noiselessly, and without danger of
startling other horses, as a whip will do. In leaping, a spur on one
side of the horse and the whip on the other form a combination which
will often compel him to jump when, from sulkiness or indolence, he
has been refusing.
It requires some practice, however, to use it in the right place and
at the right moment; a woman's skirt has an unhappy faculty of
intercepting the spur when it should strike him, and her heel of
hitting the horse when it should leave him alone. For these reasons I
am in favor of women riding without a spur when it is possible, for,
although it looks well as a finish to a boot, its adoption by inexpert
riders may lead to sad results.
If a spur is to be worn, there are several kinds from which to choose.
I prefer a box-spur with a rowel, such as men use, but having a
guard, which prevents it from catching in the habit, and lessens the
probabilities of its unintentionally punishing a horse. When it is
applied with force, the rowel comes through the guard, which works on
a spring, and upon releasing the pressure the guard again protects the
sharp rowel. They may be of the kind that fit in a box which has been
put in the heel of the boot, or they may have straps and buckle over
the instep.
VIII
LEAPING
[Sidenote: Requirements]
When a woman has attained some degree of proficiency in the saddle,
she will probably desire to perfect herself in riding by learning to
leap. Her equestrian education cannot be considered complete without
this, but she should not attempt it until she has learned thoroughly
how to ride correctly on the road. A secure seat, light hands, a cool
head, quick perception, judgment, and courage form a combination which
will enable her in a short time to acquire skill in jumping. Few women
possess all these qualities, but an effort should be made to obtain as
many of them as possible before trying to jump.
[Sidenote: In the Ring]
The first lessons should be on a horse which has been well trained to
this work and requires no assistance from his rider. He should inspire
confidence, and jump easily and surely rather than brilliantly. I
think it is well to begin in a school over bars, as there the rider is
not under the necessity of choosing a good take-off or landing, and is
thus free to give undivided attention to herself.
[Sidenote: Approaching Jump]
Three feet is high enough to put the bars at the start; or they may be
even lower should the rider feel timid. As she approaches the jump she
must sit firmly in the middle of the saddle (not hanging either to the
right or to the left, thereby upsetting the horse's balance), and she
must look straight at the obstacle, with her head up and her body
thrown a trifle back. The reins should at first be held in both
hands, for several reasons. It lessens the chances of sitting crooked,
and it prevents throwing up the right arm as the horse jumps--a common
and unsightly practice, calculated to frighten him and distract his
attention from his work, and to jerk his mouth, while it has no
redeeming features. In addition to this, when the horse lands, the
reins are not so liable to slip through two hands as through one.
Approaching the jump, the horse should break into a moderate canter,
and the only rule his rider will be likely to remember at the first
trial will be to "lean back as he jumps and give him his head." As she
becomes accustomed to the action, her attention must be called to
details. While nearing the jump, she must keep her hands low, and just
feel her horse's mouth with the snaffle without interfering with it
or shifting her hold on the reins. Quiet, steady hands are
indispensable to success.
[Illustration: TAKING OFF]
[Sidenote: Taking off]
[Sidenote: Landing]
By watching his stride one can tell when he will take off. At that
moment he will stretch out his neck; then she must, by instantly
pushing them forward, let her hands yield to his mouth. This must be
accurately calculated, for should the pressure on his mouth be varied
too suddenly and at the wrong time, it would throw him out of his
stride by letting go of his mouth when he needed steadying. Some
advocate leaning forward before leaning back as the horse takes off,
but the slight involuntary motion communicated to the body by
thrusting the hands forward will be sufficient to precede the backward
movement. Before he has finished his effort, she must lean back just
enough (but no farther) to avoid being thrown forward by the action
of his quarters or by the angle at which he comes down. Her left heel
should not come in contact with him after he has taken off, although
she may strike him with it to urge him on if he goes at the jump too
slowly. Below the waist she must be firm and immovable; above,
yielding and flexible. As the horse lands, she regains her upright
position, and should be careful that he does not pull the reins
through her fingers. Under all circumstances she must have too firm a
hold on the reins to admit of such an occurrence. If the horse
stumbles at the moment of landing, he needs the support of her hands;
or should he bolt, it must not be necessary to pull in the slack rein
before being able to check him.
[Sidenote: Lifting]
One of the most erroneous theories extant is that it is desirable to
"lift" a horse at his fences. Doing so only necessitates carrying the
weight of his rider's hands on his mouth, and risks pulling the horse
into the jump, while he is hindered from stretching his neck, as he
must to land safely and correctly. Hanging on to his mouth is often
the cause of a horse's landing on all four feet at once, or dropping
too close to the jump. The pull on the reins holds him back, thus
inducing these bad habits, and will often make him refuse or dread to
jump, knowing that it entails a sharp jerk on his sensitive mouth. To
a casual or ignorant observer it sometimes looks as though a good
rider were "lifting" his horse; but it only appears so because,
knowing intuitively at just what instant his hands must yield, he so
accurately gives to the animal's mouth that the action of the horse's
mouth and the rider's hands is simultaneous.
[Illustration: ABOUT TO LAND]
[Sidenote: Out of Doors]
After some practice in the ring, a woman may try jumping out-of-doors,
for inside there is not a sufficient variety of obstacles; and she
should then have a breast-plate attached to her saddle. By this time
she should, in jumping, hold her reins in one hand, the snaffle
inside, curb outside, and quite loose. As she goes towards a jump, her
right hand should be placed in front of the left on the snaffle to
steady the horse. In this way she can remove it without leaving an
uneven pressure on the horse's mouth, as would be the case if, as is
customary, her hand had rested on the two right reins, then been
suddenly withdrawn in order to urge the horse with the whip, or to
protect the face from overhanging branches.
[Sidenote: Pilot]
The most favorable conditions under which a woman may begin jumping
in the country are when she can go across fields with a capable pilot
to give her a lead over some easy timber or walls. She must never
forget to see that the horse in front of her is well away from the
fence before she jumps, or she will risk landing on top of him if he
makes a mistake; or if he refuses, her horse, if too near, would be
forced to do likewise. She should not allow herself to become
dependent on the services of a pilot, or let her horse become
accustomed to jumping only when he has a lead; therefore she must
learn to choose a panel of the fence for herself.
[Sidenote: Selecting a Panel]
Supposing the fences to be moderate, she must decide, as she canters
towards the first, where she will jump, and there are a number of
considerations by which she must be governed. First, to find a panel
which is low, for in riding across country it is wise to save one's
mount, as all his strength may be needed at a big place later on. Then
the take-off must be looked to, sound level turf being chosen if
possible; and if the landing is plainly visible, so much the better. A
moderately thick top rail is often safer to put a horse at than a very
thin round one, which is liable to be a sapling, that will not break
if a horse tries to crash through it, as he is sometimes tempted to do
by its fragile appearance.
It is well to send a horse at the middle of a panel; for, should he
hit it, this, being the weakest spot, may break, while should he hit
nearer the end, where it is strong, he may be thrown. Such details as
these she will observe instinctively with a little practice. Having
decided where she will jump, her horse's head must be pointed straight
at the place, and her mind must not waver. If the rider is determined
to go, and has no misgivings, the horse is sure to be inspired with
the same confidence.
Having once put him at a panel, she should avoid changing her mind
without good reason, as her uncertainty will be imparted to him. A
fence such as described is jumped just as are the bars in the ring;
safely over it, the next obstacle must be examined.
[Sidenote: Stone Wall]
If it be a stone wall, it may often be taken in one of two
places--either where it is high and even, or where it is lower and
wide, because of the stones which have fallen from the top. In the
first instance it should be jumped in a collected manner, but at a
slower pace than the second requires. At the latter some speed is
necessary, as the horse must jump wide enough to avoid the rolling
stones on both sides.
[Sidenote: In Hand]
Few riders remember that it is as important to keep a horse collected
when going fast as at any other time. When he is hurried along, no
chance is given him to measure his stride or get his legs well under
him, but he is nevertheless expected to take off correctly and clear
the obstacle.
A good rider will always have her horse well in hand, and never hustle
him at his fences, even if she goes at them with considerable speed.
[Sidenote: Trappy Ground and Drops]
If the take-off looks treacherous, or is ploughed or muddy, the horse
should be brought to it at a trot, well collected, and allowed to take
his time at it.