For the single mushroom that we eat, how many hundreds there

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THE ESCULENT FUNGUSES OF ENGLAND.

A TREATISE

ON THE

ESCULENT FUNGUSES

OF

ENGLAND,

CONTAINING

AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR CLASSICAL HISTORY, USES, CHARACTERS,

DEVELOPMENT, STRUCTURE, NUTRITIOUS PROPERTIES,

MODES OF COOKING AND PRESERVING, ETC.

BY

CHARLES DAVID BADHAM, M.D.

EDITED BY FREDERICK CURREY, M.A., F.R.S., F.L.S.

Πολλὰ μὲν ἔσθλά μεμιγμένα πολλὰ δὲ λυγρά.—HOMER.

[Illustration]

LONDON:

LOVELL REEVE & CO., HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN.

1863.

PRINTED BY

JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR, LITTLE QUEEN STREET,

LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS.

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

My lamented friend Dr. Badham having died since the first publication of

this work, my advice was asked upon the subject of the preparation of a

new edition. It was wished that the text of the work should be altered as

little as possible, and that the price of the book should be materially

lessened. The latter object could not be effected without reducing the

number of the Plates; but it appeared to me that some plates relating to

details of structure might very well be omitted, as well as the figures

of a few Italian species which, although interesting in themselves, are

quite unnecessary in a book on British Esculent Fungi. With the exception

of the omission of the description of these latter species, and the

addition of the description of two other species hereafter referred to,

the alterations in the text are too trifling to require notice. With

regard to the Figures in this edition, most of them are those of the

former plates, somewhat reduced; a few have been taken from the plates of

Mr. Berkeley’s ‘Outlines of British Fungology,’ and a few from original

and other sources.

By a re-arrangement of the whole, the reduction in the number of the

Plates has been effected, and, at the same time, figures of all the Fungi

represented in the first edition have been given, as well as of two other

species not there noticed. I should observe, however, that by a mistake

of the artist an extra figure of the Horse Mushroom has been inserted in

Plate IV. instead of one of the Common Mushroom.

The two species above alluded to which were not figured in the first

edition, are _Tuber æstivum_ and _Helvella esculenta_. The former must

have been inadvertently omitted by Dr. Badham, as it has long been known

as abundant in certain parts of England. _Helvella esculenta_, although

alluded to by Dr. Badham, was not at that time known to be a British

species. It has since been observed near Weybridge in Surrey, where

it occurs almost every spring. The plant figured in Pl. XV. fig. 6 of

the first edition under the name of _Lycoperdon plumbeum_, is not that

species, but _Lycoperdon pyriforme_; it will be found at Pl. VIII. fig.

5. Dr. Badham states that all puff-balls are esculent, but, judging from

the smell of _Lycoperdon pyriforme_, I should much doubt whether it would

make an agreeable dish. _Lycoperdon plumbeum_ is now better known as

_Bovista plumbea_, and _Lycoperdon Bovista_ as _Lycoperdon giganteum_.

There is some confusion about the synonymy of the plants described by Dr.

Badham as _Agaricus prunulus_ and _Ag. exquisitus_. It is unnecessary

to discuss the matter here, and I have thought it not desirable under

the circumstances to alter Dr. Badham’s nomenclature. They appear to

be described in Mr. Berkeley’s work as _Ag. gambosus_, Fr., and _Ag.

arvensis_, Schœff.

Dr. Badham’s observations on the spores of Fungi must be read in

connection with the note added by him at the conclusion of the work;

and to those who are interested in that part of the subject I should

recommend the perusal of the seventh chapter of Mr. Berkeley’s ‘Outlines

of British Fungology,’ and Tulasne’s recent work, ‘Selecta Fungorum

Carpologia.’

Mr. Cooke, in his ‘Plain and Easy Account of British Fungi,’ recently

published, mentions some species as esculent which are not noticed in

this work. I have however no experience of their qualities, and must

refer the reader to Mr. Cooke’s book for further information. He mentions

Mr. Berkeley as an authority for considering _Agaricus rubescens_ as

suspicious; but, from long experience, I can vouch for its being not only

wholesome, but, as Dr. Badham says, “a very delicate fungus.”

F. C.

PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.

TO THE RIGHT REVEREND THE LORD BISHOP OF NORWICH.

MY LORD,

I had two reasons for desiring that this humble performance should

appear under the sanction of your Lordship’s name. Nothing could be more

favourable to a Treatise on any department of Natural History, than the

approval of one who has been so eminently successful in his cultivation

of the same field.

But it is with much greater confidence that I dedicate a work, whose

chief object it is to furnish the labouring classes with wholesome

nourishment and profitable occupation, to a high functionary of that

kingdom, which is distinguished from all others by recognizing the claims

and furthering the interests of the poor.

I have the honour to be, my Lord,

With great respect, your Lordship’s

Obliged and humble Servant,

C. D. BADHAM.

CONTENTS.

Page

ETYMOLOGIES 1

THE RANGE OF FUNGUS GROWTHS 7

OF THEIR GENERAL FORMS, COLOURS, AND TEXTURE 10

ODOURS AND TASTES 13

EXPANSIVE POWER OF GROWTH 14

REPRODUCTIVE POWER 16

MOTION 16

PHOSPHORESCENCE 18

DIMENSIONS 18

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION 20

USES 21

MEDICAL USES 25

FUNGUSES CONSIDERED AS AN ARTICLE OF DIET 27

MODES OF DISTINGUISHING 40

CONDITIONS NECESSARY TO THEIR PRODUCTION 47

FAIRY RINGS 52

ON THE GROWTH OF FUNGUSES 53

ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE SPORES, OR QUASI-SEEDS[1] 58

OF THE ANNULUS, THE VELUM, AND THE VOLVA 66

OF THE STALK, AND OF THE PILEUS 68

OF THE GILLS, TUBES, PLAITS, AND SPINES 69

METHODICAL DISTRIBUTION OF BRITISH ESCULENT FUNGUSES 72

DESCRIPTION OF SPECIES:—

_Agaricus acris minor_ 120

_Agaricus alutaceus_ 117

_Agaricus atramentarius_ 111

_Agaricus campestris_ 94

_Agaricus castaneus_ 143

_Agaricus comatus_ 112

_Agaricus deliciosus_ 102

_Agaricus Dryophilus_ 107

_Agaricus emeticus_ 118

_Agaricus exquisitus_ 100

_Agaricus fusipes_ 141

_Agaricus heterophyllus_ 113

_Agaricus melleus_ 139

_Agaricus nebularis_ 108

_Agaricus Orcella_ 129

_Agaricus oreades_ 106

_Agaricus ostreatus_ 121

_Agaricus personatus_ 105

_Agaricus piperatus_ 144

_Agaricus procerus_ 88

_Agaricus prunulus_ 85

_Agaricus ruber_ 115

_Agaricus rubescens_ 123

_Agaricus sanguineus_ 120

_Agaricus semiglobatus_ 108

_Agaricus ulmarius_ 140

_Agaricus vaginatus_ 142

_Agaricus violaceus_ 143

_Agaricus virescens_ 116

_Agaricus virgineus_ 145

_Boletus edulis_ 90

_Boletus luridus_ 104

_Boletus scaber_ 103

_Cantharellus cibarius_ 110

_Clavaria coralloides_ 135

_Fistulina hepatica_ 127

_Helvella crispa_ 130

_Helvella lacunosa_ 131

_Helvella esculenta_ 131

_Hydnum repandum_ 126

_Lycoperdon Bovista_ 138

_Lycoperdon plumbeum_ 136

_Morchella esculenta_ 123

_Morchella semilibera_ 124

_Peziza acetabulum_ 133

_Polyporus frondosus_ 133

_Tuber æstivum_ 145

_Verpa digitaliformis_ 132

CONCLUSION 146

DESCRIPTION OF PLATES.

PLATE I.

Fig. 1. Agaricus prunulus.

” 2. Agaricus personatus.

PLATE II.

Agaricus procerus.

PLATE III.

Fig. 1, 2. Boletus edulis.

” 3, 4. Agaricus heterophyllus.

PLATE IV.

Fig. 1. Polyporus frondosus.

” 2. Agaricus nebularis.

” 3, 4, 5. Agaricus exquisitus.

PLATE V.

Fig. 1. Helvella lacunosa.

” 2. Clavaria amethystina.

” 3. Clavaria coralloides.

” 4. Agaricus deliciosus.

” 5. Clavaria cinerea.

” 6. Clavaria rugosa.

PLATE VI.

Fig. 1, 2. Boletus scaber.

” 3, 4, 5. Boletus luridus.

PLATE VII.

Fig. 1, 2, 3. Agaricus comatus.

” 4. Agaricus oreades.

” 5. Agaricus Dryophilus.

PLATE VIII.

Fig. 1. Cantharellus cibarius.

” 2. Tuber æstivum.

” 3, 4. Hydnum repandum.

” 5. Lycoperdon pyriforme.

PLATE IX.

Fig. 1, 2. Agaricus atramentarius.

” 3. Agaricus melleus.

PLATE X.

Agaricus ostreatus.

PLATE XI.

Fig. 1, 2. Agaricus Orcella.

” 3, 4, 5. Agaricus rubescens.

PLATE XII.

Fig. 1, 2. Fistulina hepatica.

” 3, 4, 5. Helvella esculenta.

” 6. Morchella esculenta.

INTRODUCTORY NOTICE.

No country is perhaps richer in esculent Funguses than our own; we have

upwards of thirty species abounding in our woods. No markets might

therefore be better supplied than the English, and yet England is the

only country in Europe where this important and savoury food is, from

ignorance or prejudice, left to perish ungathered.

In France, Germany, and Italy, Funguses not only constitute for weeks

together the sole diet of thousands, but the residue, either fresh,

dried, or variously preserved in oil, vinegar, or brine, is sold by the

poor, and forms a valuable source of income to many who have no other

produce to bring into the market. Well, then, may we style them, with

M. Roques, “_the manna of the poor_.” To call attention to an article

of commerce elsewhere so lucrative, with us so wholly neglected, is the

object of the present work, to which the best possible introduction will

be a brief reference to the state of the fungus market abroad.

The following brief summary was drawn up by Professor Sanguinetti, the

Official Inspector (“_Ispettore dei Funghi_”) at Rome; let it speak

for itself:—“For forty days during the autumn, and for about half

that period every spring, large quantities of Funguses, picked in the

immediate vicinity of Rome, from Frascati, Rocca di Papa, Albano, beyond

Monte Mario towards Ostia and the neighbourhood of the sites of Veii

and Gabii, are brought in at the different gates. In the year 1837, the

Government instituted the so-called _Congregazione Speciale di Sanità_,

which, among other duties, was more particularly required to take into

serious consideration the commerce of Funguses, from the unrestricted

sale of which during some years past, cases of poisoning had not

unfrequently occurred. The following decisions were arrived at by this

body:—

“1st. That for the future an ‘Inspector of Funguses,’ versed

in botany, should be appointed to attend the market in place

of the peasant, whose supposed practical knowledge had been

hitherto held as sufficient guarantee for the public safety.

“2nd. That all the Funguses brought into Rome by the different

gates should be registered, under the surveillance of the

principal officer, in whose presence also the baskets were to

be sealed up, and the whole for that day’s consumption sent

under escort to a central depôt.

“3rd. That a certain spot should be fixed upon for the

Fungus market, and that nobody, under penalty of fine and

imprisonment, should hawk them about the streets.

“4th. That at seven o’clock A.M. precisely, the Inspector

should pay his daily visit and examine the whole, the contents

of the baskets being previously emptied on the ground by the

proprietors, who were then to receive, if the Funguses were

approved of, a printed permission of sale from the police, and

to pay for it an impost of one baioccho (a halfpenny) on every

ten pounds.

“5th. That quantities under ten pounds should not be taxed.

“6th. That the stale funguses of the preceding day, as well

as those that were mouldy, bruised, filled with maggots,

or dangerous (_muffi_, _guasti_, _verminosi_, _velenosi_),

together with any specimen of the common mushroom (_Ag.

campestris_) detected in any of the baskets, should be sent

under escort and thrown into the Tiber.

“7th. That the Inspector should be empowered to fine or

imprison all those refractory to the above regulations; and,

finally, that he should furnish a weekly report to the Tribunal

of Provisions (_Il Tribunale delle Grascie_) of the proceeds of

the sale.

“As all fresh Funguses for sale in quantities _exceeding_ ten pounds

are weighed, in order to be taxed, we are enabled to arrive at an exact

estimate of the number of pounds thus disposed of. The return of _taxed_

Mushrooms in the city of Rome during the last ten years, gives a yearly

average of between _sixty and eighty thousand pounds_ weight; and if we

double this amount, as we may safely do, in order to include such smaller

_untaxed_ supplies as are disposed of as bribes, fees, and presents, and

reckon the whole at the rate of six baiocchi, or threepence per pound (a

fair average), this will make the commercial value of fresh Funguses very

apparent, showing it here to be little less than £2000 a year.”

But the fresh Funguses form only a small part of the whole consumption,

to which must be added the dried, the pickled, and the preserved; which

sell at a much higher price than the first.[2] Supposing, however, that

with these additions the supply of all kinds only reached a sum the

double of that given above, even this would furnish us with an annual

average of nearly _four thousand pounds sterling_; and this in a single

city, and that, too, by no means the most populous one in Italy![3]

What, then, must be the net receipts of all the market-places of all the

Italian States? For as in these the proportion of the price of esculent

Funguses to butchers’ meat is as two to three, it is plain that prejudice

has deprived the poor of this country, not only of many thousand pounds

of the former but also of as much of the latter, as might have been

purchased by exchange, and of the countless sums which might have been

earned in gathering them.[4]

ON THE ESCULENT FUNGUSES OF ENGLAND.

“Quos ipsa volentia rura

Sponte tulere sua carpsit.”—_Virgil._

“He culls from woods, and heights, and fields,

Those untaxed boons which nature yields.”

ETYMOLOGIES.

By the word μύκης, ητος or ου, ὁ, whereof the usually received root,

μῦκος (_mucus_), is probably factitious, the Greeks used familiarly to

designate certain, but indefinite species of funguses, which they were

in the habit of employing at table. This term, in its origin at once

trivial and restricted to at most a few varieties, has become in our days

classical and generic; Mycology, its direct derivative, including, in the

language of modern botany, several great sections of plants (many amongst

the number of microscopic minuteness), which have apparently as little to

do with the original import of μύκης as smut, bunt, mould, or dry-rot,

have to do with our table mushrooms. A like indefiniteness formerly

characterized the Latin word _fungus_, though it be now used in as

catholic a sense as that of μύκης; this, in the classic times of Rome,

seems to have been confined (without any precise limitation, however) to

certain sorts which might be eaten, and to others which it was not safe

to eat. The

“Fungos colligit albos,”[5]

which occurs in Ovid’s ‘Fasti,’ alludes to the former; the

“Sunt tibi boleti, fungos ego sumo suillos,”

of Martial, points to an inferior kind, but still esculent; whilst the

word not unfrequently designated, if not actual toadstools, at least very

equivocal mushrooms; of which character were those “ancipites fungi”

presented by Veiento to his poor clients. Some melancholy etymologists,

upon whom good mushrooms are really thrown away, would beget fungus

out of _funus_, but Voss[6] judiciously rejects so harsh and forced a

derivation, mentioning together with it others that are still more so.

The word _Boletus_, which now stands for a large genus of the section

_Pileati_, was used in ancient Rome to designate that particular mushroom

which had the honour, under Agrippina’s orders and Locusta’s cookery, of

poisoning Claudius; in memory of which event it is now called _Amanita

Cæsarea_, the Cæsar’s mushroom. It occurs frequently both in the poets

and prose writers of those days, and was in high esteem, as we collect

from Pliny, who, though no mushroom-fancier himself, calls this “Boletus

optimi cibi.” Nero, in playful allusion to his uncle’s death, of which

it was the occasion, designates it the ‘food of gods,’ βρῶμα θεῶν; and

Martial celebrates it in many a convivial epigram; in one, for instance,

where he asks his hard-hearted patron, “what possible pleasure it can be

for his guests to sit at his table, and see him devour boletuses;” in

another, “gold and silver and dresses may be trusted to a messenger, but

not a boletus, (_subaudi_) because he will eat it on the way.” This is

the only ancient mushroom which we at once recognize by the description

of it; “it originates,” says Pliny, “in a volva, or purse, in which it

lies at first concealed as in an egg; breaking through this, it rises

upwards on its stalk; the colour of its cap is red; it takes a week

to pass through the various stages of its growth and declension.” The

_suillus_—probably the same as the modern _porcino_ (a word of analogous

import), which was, and is, eaten by men as well as pigs, and not always

by these[7]—was, according to Pliny, the fungus which most readily lent

itself to poisoning by mistake; a remark so far consonant to modern

experience, that it is liable, without some attention, to be confounded

with the _Boletus luridus_, _B. cyanescens_, and others, which in their

general shape and external hue resemble it, though it is not by any means

certain that any of these species, with which it may be confounded, are

themselves poisonous.[8] The word _tuber_, though it occasionally (as in

Juvenal) meant the _truffle_, seems to have been used with considerable

latitude. Thus the _tubers_ said to spring up after those _optatos

imbres_, those “long-wished-for showers of spring,” were, probably, not

truffles, but puff-balls, which, at the season of warm rains grow with

incredible rapidity, forming an esteemed article of luxury, not only in

Italy, but also in India; whereas the truffle never makes its appearance

in the markets at such times, nor comes up so immediately after rain.

_Tuber_, like our ancient “_fusseball_,” seems a common appellation both

for truffles and puff-balls. What the ancients understood by _hydnum_

is as little precise or discriminate as the last word; for Theophrastus

declares it to have a light bark, λειόφλοιον εἶναι, in which case it is

a puff-ball, while the plant called ὑδνοφίλον, which is said to indicate

the whereabouts of _hydna_ in its neighbourhood, can only refer to the

truffle. The truffle, however, which is now so much prized throughout

Europe, seems not to have been known to the ancients, at least it is

not described by them.[9] That which the Greeks called _misy_, and the

Romans the Libyan truffle,[10] was white and of very delicious flavour,

whilst by _hydnum_ (when this word really meant truffle) they usually

designated a particular kind bearing a smooth red rind, and abounding

in certain districts of Italy; but having no chance against the black,

nodulated _tuber tuberum_, the truffle _par excellence_, found in such

abundance in the vicinities of Rome, Florence, Siena, etc., and, above

all, amongst the Nursian hills of Umbria, over against Spoleto, whence it

is largely exported throughout and beyond Italy. Under the name _Peziza_,

the ancients appear at times to describe, unconsciously, a _Scleroderma_

or species of puff-ball after it has evacuated its seed, when it presents

a flattened surface, and so far looks like a _Peziza_, with which, in

fact, it has no connection. By _Amanita_, Galen intended some kind of

esculent fungus, but we know not which; this word has now come to have

a more extensive import, and to designate, besides one or two species

that are good, many of the most dangerous character. Whatever the ancient

_Amanita_ may have been, it was formerly in high repute; Galen declares

that, next to the _Boletus_, it is ἀβλαβέστατον to eat—in which good

report of it he is abundantly borne out by the concurrent testimony of

Nicander. What Dioscorides meant by ἀγαρικὸν is another uncertainty, to

resolve which we have not sufficient data; one thing seems plain, that

it could not have been our officinal _Agaric_, for that grows upon the

_Larch_, whereas his _Agaricon_ grew upon the _Cedar_. Julius Scaliger

amuses himself at the expense of Athenæus for saying that _Agaricus_

is so called from the country of Agaria, whence he would make out that

it originally came; whereas there never was such a country, his Agaria

being, like our Poiatia, only another synonym for Fancy’s fairyland.[11]

The words _champignon_ and _mushroom_ have both a French origin, though,

like the corresponding derivatives from the Greek and Latin, they

too have come to signify things different from what they originally

designated; _champignon_, for example, of which _champ_ would seem to be

the root, is _generic_ in France. The ‘Traités sur les Champignons’ of

Bulliard, Persoon, Paulet, Cordier, and Roques, are treatises of funguses

_in genere_; whilst in England we restrict the word _champignon_ to one

small Agaric, which, as it grows in the so-called “fairy-rings,” is

hence named _Ag. oreades_. Again, there can be no doubt that our word

_mushroom_ (which, as contradistinguished from _toadstool_, is so far

generic) comes from the French _mouceron_ (originally spelt _mousseron_),

and belongs of right to that most dainty of funguses, the _A. prunulus_,

which grows amidst tender herbage and _moss_ (whence its name), and

which is justly considered, over almost the whole continent of Europe,

as the _ne plus ultra_ of culinary _friandise_. It abounds in various

parts of England, being everywhere trodden underfoot, or reaped down,

or dug up as a nuisance, while the rings which it so sedulously forms

are as sedulously destroyed. The very odour which it exhales under these

injuries, which the French call “un parfum exquis aromatisé,”[12] and the

Italians, “un odore gratissimo,”[13] is in England occasionally cited

to its disadvantage in confirmation of its supposed noxious qualities.

Thus, while we use the word _mushroom_, which is the proper appellation

of _this_ species, for another (very good, no doubt, but wholly unlike it

in its botanical characters, flavour, and appearance), this neglected,

and ignorantly neglected, species, finds itself deprived of its rightful

name, and proscribed as a toadstool. The origin of this last word,

_toadstool_, which makes them seats or thrones for toads, does not quite

satisfy me, I confess, though there be doughty authorities for it in

Johnson’s Dictionary and in Spenser’s ‘Faery Queen’!

“The grisly todestool grown there mought I see,

And loathed paddocks lording on the same;”

and, though an anonymous Italian authority declares that, in Germany,

they have actually been seen sitting on their stools,[14] still, even in

Germany, it must be admitted that they do not use them as frequently as

we might expect, had they been created for this end. In that most grisly

and ghastly waxwork exhibition at Florence, representing a charnel-house

filled with the recent victims to a raging plague, in every stage of

decomposition, the toad and his stool are not forgotten; but the artist,

who had here to deal with matter, and to consult what it would bear,

has not put his toads upon these brittle stools, lest, giving way, both

should come to the ground; he has been content to convert them into

toad-umbrellas, and to spread them as an awning over their heads.[15]

THE RANGE OF FUNGUS GROWTHS.

The family of Funguses, in the comprehensive sense in which we now

employ the term, is immense. Merely catalogued and described, there are

sufficient to fill an octavo volume of nearly 400 pages of close print,

of British species alone; altogether, there cannot be less than 5000

recognized species at present known, and each year adds new ones to the

list. The reader’s surprise at this will somewhat diminish, when he

considers, that not only the toadstools which beset his walks, whether

growing upon the ground or at the roots of trees, belong to this class,

but that the immense hordes of parasites which feed at his expense, and

foul, like the Harpies, whatever they may not actually consume, belong to

it also.

For the single mushroom that we eat, how many hundreds there be that

retaliate and prey upon us in return! To enumerate but a few, and these

of the microscopic kinds (on the other side are some which the arms

can scarcely embrace): the _Mucor mucedo_, that spawns upon our dried

preserves; the _Ascophora mucedo_, that makes our bread mouldy (“mucidæ

frustra farinæ”[16]); the _Uredo segetum_, that burns Ceres out of her

own cornfields; the _Uredo rubigo_, whose rust is still more destructive;

and the _Puccinia graminis_, whose voracity sets corn-laws and farmers

at defiance, are all funguses! So is the grey _Monilia_, that rots, and

then fattens upon, our fruits; and the _Mucor herbariorum_, that destroys

the careful gleanings of the painstaking botanist. When our beer becomes

mothery, the mother of that mischief is a fungus. If pickles acquire a

bad taste, if ketchup turns ropy and putrifies, funguses have a finger

in it all! Their reign stops not here; they prey upon each other; they

even select their victims! There is the _Myrothecium viride_, which will

only grow upon dry Agarics, preferring chiefly, for this purpose, the

_Agaricus adustus_; the _Mucor[17] chrysospermus_, which attacks the

flesh of a particular _Boletus_; the _Sclerotium cornutum_, which visits

some other moist mushrooms in decay. There are some _Xylomas_ that will

spot the leaves of the Maple, and some those of the Willow, exclusively.

The naked seeds of some are found burrowing between the opposite surface

of leaves; some love the neighbourhood of burnt stubble and charred wood;

some visit the sculptor in his studio, growing up amidst the heaps of

moistened marble dust that have caked and consolidated under his saw.

The _Racodium_ of the low cellar[18] festoons its ceiling, shags its

walls, and wraps its thick coat round our wine-casks,[19] keeping our

oldest wine in closest bond; while the _Geastrum_, aspiring occasionally

to leave this earth, has been found suspended, like Mahomet’s coffin,

between it and the stars, on the very highest pinnacle of St. Paul’s.[20]

The close cavities of nuts occasionally afford concealment to some

species; others, like leeches, stick to the bulbs of plants, and suck

them dry; these (the architect’s and ship-builder’s bane) pick timber to

pieces, as men pick oakum; nor do they confine their selective ravages to

plants alone, they attach themselves to animal structures, and destroy

animal life; the _Onygena equina_ has a particular fancy for the hoofs of

horses and for the horns of cattle, sticking to these alone; the belly

of a tropical fly[21] is liable, in autumn, to break out into vegetable

tufts of fungous growth, and the caterpillar to carry about on his body

a _Cordyceps_ larger than himself. The disease called Muscadine, which

destroys so many silkworms, is also a fungus (_Botrytis Bassiana_), which

in a very short time completely fills the worm with filaments very unlike

those it is in the habit of secreting.[22] The vegetating wasp,[23] too,

of which everybody has heard, is only another mysterious blending of

vegetable with insect life. Lastly, and to take breath, funguses visit

the wards of our hospitals, and grow out of the products of surgical

disease.[24] Where, then, are they not to be found? do they not abound,

like Pharaoh’s plagues, everywhere? is not their name legion, and their

province ubiquity?[25]

OF THEIR GENERAL FORMS, COLOURS, TEXTURE, TASTES, SMELLS, ETC.

What geometry shall define their ever-varying shapes? who but a Venetian

painter do justice to their colours?[26] or what modifications of

‘soft’ and ‘hard’ convey an adequate knowledge of all their various

crases and consistencies? As to shapes, some are simple threads, like

the _Byssus_, and never get beyond this; some shoot out into branches,

like seaweed; some puff themselves out into puff-balls; some thrust their

heads into mitres;[27] these assume the shape of a cup,[28] and those of

a wine-funnel;[29] some, like _A. mammosus_, have a teat; others, like

the _A. clypeolarius_, are umbonated at their centre; these are stilted

upon a high leg,[30] and those have not a leg to stand on; some are

shell-shaped, many bell-shaped, and some hang upon their stalks like a

lawyer’s wig;[31] some assume the form of the horse’s hoof, others of a

goat’s beard: in _Clathrus cancellatus_ you look into the fungus through

a thick red trellis which surrounds it. Some exhibit a nest in which they

rear their young,[32] and, not to speak of those vague shapes,

“If shapes they can be called, that shape have none

Determinate,”

of such tree parasites as are fain to mould themselves at the will of

their entertainer (the fate of parasites, whether under oak or mahogany),

mention may be made of two, of which the forms are at once singular and

constant; one exactly like an ear, and given for some good reason to

Judas (_Auricula Judæ_), clings to several trees, and trembles when you

touch it; the other, which lolls out from the bark of chestnut-trees

(_Lingua di Castagna_), is so like a tongue in shape and general

appearance,[33] that in the days of enchanted trees you would not have

cut it off to pickle or to eat on any account, lest the knight to whom it

belonged should afterwards come to claim it of you. The above are amongst

the most remarkable of the many Protean forms assumed by funguses; as

to their colours, we find in one genus only species which correspond

to every hue! The _Agaricus Cæsareus_, the _A. muscarius_, the _A.

sanguineus_, assume the imperial purple, the _A. violaceus_ a beautiful

violet, the _A. sulphureus_ a bright yellow, the _A. adustus_ a dingy

black, the _A. exquisitus_, and many others, a milk-white; whilst the

_A. virescens_ takes that which, in this class of plants, is the rarest

of all to meet with, a pale-green colour. The upper surface of some is

zoned with concentric circles of different hues; sometimes it is spotted,

at other times of a uniform tint. The bonnets of some shine as if they

were sprinkled with _mica_;[34] these have a rich velvety, those a smooth

kid-like covering stretched over them. Some _pilei_ are imbricated with

brown scales, some flocked with white shreds of membrane, and some are

stained with various-coloured milks secreted from within. The consistence

of funguses is very different according to their sort, and the epithets

of woody, corky, leathery, spongy, fleshy, gelatinous, pulpy, or mucous,

will all find fitting application to some of them. Occasionally a fungus

is secreted soft, but hardens by degrees into a compact and woody

texture.

ODOURS AND TASTES.

Both one and the other are far more numerous in this class of plants than

in any other with which we are acquainted. As to odours, though these be

generally most powerful in the fresh condition of the fungus, they are

sometimes increased by drying it, during which process too some species,

inodorous before, acquire an odour, and not always a pleasant one. Some

yield an insupportable stench; the _Phallus impudicus_ and _Clathrus

cancellatus_ are of this kind. A botanist had by mistake taken one of

the former into his bedroom; he was soon awakened by an intolerable

fœtor, and was glad to open his window and get rid of it, as he hoped,

and the _Phallus_ together. Here he was disappointed; “sublatâ causâ non

tollitur effectus,” the fœtor remaining nearly the same for some hours

afterwards. A lady, a friend of mine, who was drawing one in a room, was

obliged to take it into the open air to complete her sketch. As to the

_Clathrus_, I have found ten minutes in a room with it nine too many:

it becomes insupportably offensive in a short time, and its infective

stench has given rise to a superstition entertained of it throughout

the Landes, viz. that it is capable of producing cancer—in consequence

of which superstition the inhabitants, who call it Cancrou, or Cancer,

cover it carefully over, lest by accident some one should chance to touch

it, and become infected with that horrible disease in consequence.[35]

Batsch has described an Agaric[36] of so powerful and peculiar a smell,

that before he could finish his picture (for he was drawing it) a violent

headache made him desist, “vehementi afficiebar capitis dolore.” Of the

others, some are graveolent in a savoury or in an unsavoury sense. This

smells strong of onions,[37] that of cinnamon,[38] from which it takes

its name; the _A. ostreatus_ (_auct. nost._) most powerfully of Tarragon;

_A. odoratus_, and the _Cantharellus_, like apricots and ratafia

(Purton); _Boletus salicinus_, “like the bloom of May” (Abbott); the _A.

sanguineus_, when dry, savours of a stale poultice; _A. piperatus_, of

the _Triglia_, or red mullet; the _Hydna_ generally give out a smell of

tallow; moulds have their own smells, which are mouldy and musty; some

exhale the smell of putrid meat, many the odour of fresh meal; the spawn

of _A. prunulus_ and of the puff-balls (_Lycoperdons_) exhale an odour

similar to the perfect plants; but the _Pietra funghaia_, filled with

the spores of its own _Polyporus_, is without smell. When fresh, there

is scarcely any perceptible odour in _Boletus edulis_ or _B. luridus_,

nor yet in the _A. Cæsareus_ when recently gathered. A word about their

tastes will suffice: with so many smells, they must needs have flavours

to correspond, and so they have; sapid, sweet, sour, peppery, rich,

rank, acrid, nauseous, bitter, styptic, might be all found in an English

“gradus” (though at present, I am sorry to say, without any lines from

poets in whose writings they occur), after the word ‘Fungus.’ In a few,

generally of an unsafe character, there is little or no taste in the

mouth while they are being masticated, but shortly after deglutition, the

fauces become dry, and a sense of more or less constriction is apt to

supervene, which frequently continues for some time afterwards.

EXPANSIVE POWER OF GROWTH.

Soft and yielding as vegetable structures appear to the touch, the

expansive force of their growth is almost beyond calculation. The effects

of this power, of which the experience of every one will furnish him

with some instances, are perhaps nowhere more strikingly exemplified

than amidst the ruins of its own creation. Coeval with many old brick

fabrics of earlier times, perhaps embedded in the very mortar which holds

them together, it may lurk there for centuries in quiescence, till once

arousing its energies, it continues to exert them in ceaseless activity

ever after. It has at Rome planted its pink Valerians on her highest

towers, and its wild fig-tree in the breaches of her walls; nor are the

granite obelisks of her piazzas, nor the classic groups in marble on her

Quirinal mount, entirely exempt from its encroachments. A conspiracy of

plants, _one hundred strong_, have long ago planned the destruction of

the Coliseum; their undermining process advances each year, and neither

iron nor new brickwork can arrest it long. That old Roman cement, which

the barbarians gave up as impracticable, and the pickaxe of the Barberini

had but begun to disintegrate, will, ere the lapse of another century,

be effectually pulled to pieces by the rending arm of vegetation. Here,

as erst in Juvenal’s time, the _mala ficus_ finds no walls too strong

to rive asunder, no tower beyond the reach of its scaling, no monument

too sacred for it to touch. In the class of plants immediately under

consideration, while the expansive effort of growth is equal to what

it is in other cases, its effects are far more startling from their

suddenness. M. Bulliard (to cite one or two instances out of a great

many) relates, that on placing a _Phallus impudicus_ within a glass

vessel, the plant expanded so rapidly as to shiver its sides with an

explosive detonation as loud as that of a pistol. Dr. Carpenter, in

his ‘Elements of Physiology,’ mentions that “in the neighbourhood of

Basingstoke a paving-stone, measuring twenty-one inches square, and

weighing eighty-three pounds, was completely raised an inch and a half

out of its bed by a mass of toadstools, of from six to seven inches

in diameter, and that nearly the whole pavement of the town suffered

displacement from the same cause.” A friend has seen a crop of puff-balls

raise large flagstones considerably above the plane of their original

level; and I have myself recently witnessed an extensive displacement

of the pegs of a wooden pavement which had been driven nine inches into

the ground, but were heaved up irregularly, in several places, by small

bouquets of Agarics, growing from below.

REPRODUCTIVE POWER.

Funguses have a remarkable power of re-forming such parts of their

substance as have been accidentally or otherwise removed. Vittadini found

that when the tubes of a _Boletus_ were cut out from a growing plant,

they were after a time reproduced. Where deep holes have been eaten into

these plants by snails, such holes, on the _Boletus_ attaining to its

full growth, are partially refilled. If the tender _Polyporus_ be cut

across, the wound immediately sets about healing by the first intention,

leaving not even a cicatrice to mark the original seat of the injury. The

_Lycoperdons_ (_Bovista_), which are often accidentally wounded by the

scythe, have the same faculty of repairing the injury, remodelling afresh

the parts that may have been excised from them.[39]

MOTION.

In a recent work on ‘Insect Life,’ I have discoursed somewhat at large

on the insufficiency of any kind of movements as proofs of sensation,

quoting, amidst other evidences to this effect, certain remarkable

movements in plants. Some of the present family exhibit the phenomena

of insensitive motion in a remarkable manner, and might have been added

to the list already cited in that publication. Mr. Robson has given us

a very interesting account of the movements he observed in the scarlet

_Clathrus_, which is here transcribed in his own words. It is interesting

to notice how an unbiassed observer uses the very terms to designate the

movements of a plant which would have been minutely descriptive of those

of an insect:—“At first I was much surprised to see a part of the fibres,

that had got through a rupture in the top of the _Clathrus_, moving like

the legs of a fly when laid on his back. I then touched it with the

point of a pin, and was still more surprised when I saw it present the

appearance of a little bundle of worms entangled together, the fibres

being all alive. I next took the little bundle of fibres quite out, and

the animal motion was then so strong as to turn the head halfway round,

first one way and then another, and two or three times it got out of the

focus. Almost every fibre had a different motion; some of them twined

round one another, and then untwined again, whilst others were bending,

extending, coiling, waving, etc. The fibres had many little balls

adhering to their sides, which I take to be the seeds, and I observed

many of them to be disengaged at every motion of the fibres; the seeds

appeared like gunpowder finely granulated.” Instances from other authors

abound. “An _Helvella inflata_, on being touched by me once, threw up

its seeds in the form of a smoke, which arose with an elastic bound,

glittering in the sunshine like particles of silver.”[40] “The _Vibrissea

truncorum_, taken from water and exposed to the rays of the sun, though

at first smooth, is soon covered with white geniculated filaments, which

start from the _hymenium_, and have an oscillating motion.”[41] The

_Pilobolus_, of which so accurate an account has been given us by the

great Florentine mycologist,[42] casts, as its name imports, its seeds

into the air; these also escape with a strong projectile force from the

upper surface of Pezizas, the anfractuosities of the Morel, and from the

gills of Agarics.[43]

PHOSPHORESCENCE.

Several kinds of funguses, and the spawn of the truffle, emit a

phosphorescent light; of the first, the _Agaricus olearius_, not uncommon

in Italy, is sometimes seen at night, feebly shining amidst the darkness

of the olive grove. The coal-mines near Dresden have long been celebrated

for the production of funguses which emit a light similar to a pale

moonlight. Mr. Drummond describes an Australian fungus with similar

properties; and another very interesting one, an Agaric, is noticed by

Mr. Gardner, in his ‘Travels in Brazil.’[44]

DIMENSIONS.

Most funguses do not present great anomalies in their size, but retain

nearly the same dimensions throughout the whole course of their being;

some few species, however, seem to have a faculty of almost indefinite

expansion. The usual size of a puff-ball, as we all know, is not much

larger than an egg, but some puff-balls attain to the dimensions of

the human head,[45] or exceed it. Mr. Berkeley quotes the case of a

_Polyporus squamosus_, which in three weeks grew to seven feet five

inches in periphery, and weighed thirty-four pounds; also of a _Polyporus

fraxineus_, which in a few years measured forty-two inches across.

Clusius[46] tells us of a fungus in Pannonia, of such immense size, that

after satisfying the cravings of a large mycophilous household, enough

of it remained to fill a chariot; this must have been the _Polyporus

frondosus_, to which _Polyporus_ John Bapt. Porta[47] also alludes as

that called _gallinace_[48] by the Neapolitans, which is so big, he says,

that you can scarcely make your hands meet round it, “brachiis diductis

vix homo complecti possit;” he had known it attain twelve pounds weight

in a few days.[49] Bolton, in 1787, found an _Agaricus muscarius_,

which, “after the removal of a considerable portion of its stalk, weighed

nearly two pounds;” Withering, an _A. Georgii_, “which weighed fourteen

pounds,” and Mr. Stackhouse another of the same species in Cornwall,

“which was eighteen inches across, and had a stem as thick as a man’s

wrist;” and I lately picked in the park at Buckhurst, a _Boletus edulis_

which measured twenty-eight inches round its pileus, and eight round

the stem, and a few days later a _B. pachypus_, the girth of which was

thirty-two inches.

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION.

Of all vegetable productions these are the most highly azotized, that

is, animalized in their composition—a fact not only evinced by the

strong cadaverous smell which some of them give out in decay, and by

the savoury animalized meat which others afford at table, but on the

evidence of chemistry also. Thus Dr. Marcet has proved that, like

animals, they absorb a large quantity of oxygen, and disengage in return,

from their surface, a large quantity of carbonic acid; all however do

not exhale carbonic acid, but, in lieu of it, some give out hydrogen,

and others azotic gas. They yield, moreover, to chemical analysis the

several components of which animal structures are made up; many of them,

in addition to sugar, gum, resin, a peculiar acid called fungic acid,

and a variety of salts, furnish considerable quantities of _albumen_,

_adipocire_, and _osmazome_, which last is that principle that gives its

peculiar flavour to meat gravy. The _Polyporus sulphureus_ is frequently

covered with little crystals of the binoxalate of potash;[50] the

_Agaricus piperatus_ yields the acetate of potash,[51] and it is probable

that other funguses of which we have as yet no recorded analysis will,

on the institution of such, be found to contain some new and unexpected

ingredient peculiar to themselves. When these several substances have

been duly extracted from funguses, there is left behind for a common base

the solid structure of the plant itself; this, which is called _fungine_,

is white, flabby, insipid in its taste, but highly nutritious in its

properties. If nitric acid be poured upon it, an immediate disengagement

of azotic gas takes place, and several new substances are the result:

a bitter principle, a reddish resinoid matter, hydrocyanic and oxalic

acids, and two remarkable fatty substances, whereof one resembles tallow,

the other wax. If dilute sulphuric acid be poured upon this fungine, no

change ensues; but if muriatic acid be substituted, the result is a jelly.

USES.

The uses to which funguses have been put are various, and, had the

properties of these plants been as extensively investigated as those

which belong to the phanerogamic classes, they would probably by

this time have proved still more numerous: some, as the _Polyporus

sulphureus_, furnish a useful colour for dyeing;[52] the _Agaricus

atramentarius_ makes ink; divers Lycoperdons, of which other mention will

be made presently when we come to speak of such species as are esculent,

have also been employed for stupefying bees, for stanching blood, and for

making tinder; their employment in the first of these capacities, seems

to have escaped the observation of the accurate author of ‘Les Jardins,’

who has mentioned the others:—

“Ce puissant Agaric, qui du sang épanché

Arrête les ruisseaux, et dont le sein fidèle

Du caillou pétillant recueille l’étincelle.”

The ‘caillou,’ alas, like the poet who struck this spark out of it, is

now obsolete; but _amadou_ is still in vogue, being employed for many

household purposes; in addition to which, a medical practitioner of

Covent Garden has of late been in the habit of using extensive sheets

of it to cover over and protect the backs of those bedridden invalids

whose cruel sufferings make such large demands upon our sympathy,—for

the alleviation of which so little is to be done!—as it is more elastic

than chamois leather, it is less liable to crumple up when lain upon, and

on this account has been preferred to it by several of our metropolitan

surgeons of eminence; some employ it also as a gentle compress over

varicose veins, where it supports the distended vessels without pressing

too tightly upon the limb. Gleditsch relates, that the poorer inhabitants

of Franconia stitch it together, and make dresses of it; and also that

the Laplanders burn it in the neighbourhood of their dwellings, to secure

their reindeer from the attacks of gadflies, which are repelled by the

smoke; thus “good at need,” it really deserves the epithet of ‘puissant,’

given to it by Delille.[53]

The _Polyporus squamosus_ makes a razor-strop far superior to any of

those at present patented, and sold, with high-sounding epithets, far

beyond their deserts. To prepare the _Polyporus_ for this purpose, it

must be cut from the ash-tree in autumn, when its juices have been dried

and its substance has become consolidated; it is then to be flattened

out for twenty-four hours in a press, after which it should be carefully

rubbed with pumice, sliced longitudinally, and every slip that is free

from the erosions of insects be then glued upon a wooden stretcher.

Cesalpinus knew all this! and the barbers in his time knew it too;[54]

and it is not a little remarkable that so useful an invention should, in

an age of puffing, advertisement, and improvement, like our own, have

been entirely lost sight of. Imperato employed and recommends it as an

excellent detergent, with which to brush and comb out the scurf from the

hair.

A treatise on the esculent funguses of England containing an account of their classical history, uses, characters, development, structure, nutritious properties, modes of cooking and preserving, etc. · 第 1 / 12 段