About three o'clock in the afternoon of the 27th we saw two kites, or

what are called Haddaya, very numerous in Egypt; about a quarter of an

hour afterwards, another of the same sort, known to be carrion-birds,

probably going in search of the dead camels. I could not conceal my

joy at what I regarded as a happy omen. We went five hours and a half

this day, and at night came to Waadi el Arab, where are the first

trees we had seen since we left El Haimer.

On the 28th, at half past seven in the morning we left Waadi el

Arab, and entered into a narrow defile, with rugged, but not high

mountains on each side. About twelve o'clock we came to a few trees

in the bed of a torrent. Ill as I was, after refreshing myself with

my last bread and water, I set out in the afternoon to gain a rising

ground, that I might see, if possible, what was to the westward; for

the mountains seemed now rocky and high like those of the Kennouss

near Syene. I arrived, with great difficulty and pain, on the top of

a moderate hill, but was exceedingly disappointed at not seeing the

river to the westward; however, the vicinity of the Nile was very

evident, by the high, uniform mountains that confine its torrent when

it comes out of Nubia. The evening was still, so that sitting down

and covering my eyes with my hands, not to be diverted by external

objects, I listened and heard distinctly the noise of waters, which I

supposed to be the cataract, but it seemed to the southward of us, as

if we had passed it. I was, however, fully satisfied that it was the

Nile.

Just before I left my station the sun was already low, when I saw a

flock of birds, which, in Syria, where they are plenty, are called

the Cow Bird. In Egypt they are also numerous upon the Nile, but I

do not know their name. They are a small species of the heron, about

a third of the size of the common one, milk-white, having a tuft of

flesh-coloured feathers upon their breast, of a coarser, stronger,

and more hairy-like quality than the shorter feathers. A flock of

these birds was flying in a straight line, very low, evidently seeking

food along the banks of the river. It was not an hour for birds to

go far from their home, nor does this bird feed at a distance from

its accustomed haunt at any time. Satisfied then that, continuing our

course N. W. we should arrive at or below Syene, I returned to join my

companions, but it was now dark, and I found Idris and the Barbarins

in some pain, endeavouring to trace me by my footsteps.

I communicated to them this joyful news, which was confirmed by Idris,

though he did not himself know the just distance from this place (Abou

Seielat) as his usual way had been to Daroo, not to Assouan, which he

did not choose to approach, for fear of the vexations from the Turkish

garrison. A cry of joy followed this annunciation. Christians, Moors,

and Turks, all burst into floods of tears, kissing and embracing one

another, and thanking God for his mercy in this deliverance, and

unanimously in token of their gratitude, and acknowledgment of my

constant attention to them in the whole of this long journey; saluting

me with the name of Abou Ferege, Father Foresight, the only reward it

was in their power to give.

On the 29th, at seven o'clock in the morning we left Abou Seielat;

about nine, we saw the palm trees at Assouan, and a quarter before ten

arrived in a grove of palm-trees on the north of that city.

CHAP. XIII.

_Kind reception at Assouan--Arrival at Cairo--Transactions with

the Bey there--Land at Marseilles._

Without congratulating one another on their escape and safe arrival,

as they had the night before at Abou Seielat, my companions with

one accord ran to the Nile to drink; though they had already seen,

in the course of the journey, two or three tragical instances, the

consequences of intemperance in drinking water. I sat myself down

under the shade of the palm-trees, to recollect myself. It was very

hot, and I fell into a profound sleep. But Hagi Ismael, who was

neither sleepy nor thirsty, but exceedingly hungry, had gone into the

town in search of somebody that would give him food. He was not gone

far before his green turban and ragged appearance struck some brethren

janizaries, who met him; one of whom asked him the reason of his being

there, and whence he came? Ismael, in a violent passion, and broken

Arabic, said, that he was a janizary of Cairo, was last come from

hell, where there was not one devil, but thousands, from a country of

Kafrs that called themselves Mussulmen; that he had walked through a

desert where the earth was on fire and the wind was flame, and in fear

of dying every day with thirst and hunger.

The soldier who heard him talk in this disjointed, raving manner,

desired him to go with him to the Aga. This was the very thing that

Ismael wanted. He only desired time to acquaint his companions. "Have

you companions, says the soldier, from such a country?"--"Companions!

says Ismael; what the devil! do you imagine I came this journey

alone?"--"If the journey, says the man, is such as you describe

it, I do not think many would go with you; well, go along with my

companions, and I will seek yours, but how shall I find them?"--"Go,

says Ismael, to the palm-trees, and when you find the tallest man

you ever saw in your life, more ragged and dirty than I am, call him

Yagoube, and desire him to come along with you to the Aga."

The soldier accordingly found me still sitting at the root of the

palm-tree. The servants, who had now satisfied their thirst, and were

uncertain what was next to be done, were sitting together at some

distance from me. They began to feel their own weariness, and were

inclined to leave me to a little repose, which they hoped might enable

me to overcome mine. For my own part, a dullness and insensibility,

an universal relaxation of spirits which I cannot describe, a kind

of stupor, or palsy of the mind, had overtaken me, almost to a

deprivation of understanding. I found in myself a kind of stupidity,

and want of power to reflect upon what had passed. I seemed to be,

as if awakened from a dream when the senses are yet half asleep, and

we only begin to doubt whether what has before passed in thoughts is

real or not. The dangers that I was just now delivered from made no

impression upon my mind, and what more and more convinces me I was

for a time not in my perfect senses, is, that I found in myself a

hard-heartedness, without the least inclination to be thankful for

that signal deliverance which I had just now experienced.

From this stupor I was awakened by the arrival of the soldier, who

cried out to us at some distance, "You must come to the Aga to the

castle, all of you, as fast as you can, the Turk is gone before you."

"It will not be very fast, if we even should do that, said I; the Turk

has ridden two days on a camel, and I have walked on foot, and do not

know at present if I can walk at all." I endeavoured, at the same

time, to rise and stand upright, which I did not succeed in, after

several attempts, without great pain and difficulty. I observed the

soldier was in a prodigious astonishment at my appearance, habit, and

above all, at my distress. "We shall get people in town, says he, to

assist you, and if you cannot walk, the Aga will send you a mule."

The Turk and the Greeks were cloathed much in the same manner; Ismael

and Michael had in their hands two monstrous blunderbusses. The whole

town crowded after us while we walked to the castle, and could not

satiate themselves with admiring a company of such an extraordinary

appearance. The Aga was struck dumb upon our entering the room, and

told me afterwards, that he thought me a full foot taller than any

man he had ever seen in his life. I saw he was embarrassed whether

he should desire me to sit down or not, so that I saved him the

deliberation, by saying, immediately after saluting him, "Sir, you

will excuse me, I must sit." He bowed, and made a sign, complacently

asking me, "Are you a Turk? Are you a Mussulman?" "I am not a Turk,

said I, nor am I a Mussulman; I am an Englishman, and bearer of the

grand signior's firman to all his subjects, and of letters from the

regency of Cairo, and from the Porte of Janizaries, to you." "Caz

Dangli, says Ismael, they are the same as Turks, they came first from

Anatolia, I have been at the place." Upon my mentioning the grand

signior, the Aga got upon his feet, and, without heeding Ismael's

speech, said, very politely, "Do you choose to have your servants

sit?" "In such a disastrous journey as I have made, Sir, said I, our

servants must be our companions; besides, they have a strong excuse

for sitting, neither they nor I have a foot to stand upon."

_Aga._ "Where are those letters and firman?" _Ya._ "Where they may

be now I know not, we left them at Saffieha with all the rest of our

baggage; our camels died, our provisions and water were exhausted, we

therefore left every thing behind us, and made this one effort to save

our lives. It is the first favour I am to ask of you, when I shall

have rested myself two days, to allow me to get fresh camels, to go in

search of my letters and baggage." _Aga._ "God forbid I should ever

suffer you to do so mad an action. You are come hither by a thousand

miracles, and after this, will you tempt God and go back? we shall

take it for granted what those papers contain. You will have no need

of a firman between this and Cairo." _Ya._ "We shall leave it upon

that footing for the present, allow me only to say, I am a servant

of the king of England, travelling, by his order, and for my own and

my countrymen's information; that I had rather risk my life twenty

times, than lose the papers I have left in the desert." _Aga._ "Go

in peace, and eat and sleep. Carry them, says he, speaking to his

attendants, to the house of the Schourbatchie." Thus ended our first

interview with the Aga, who put us in possession of a very good house,

and it happened to be the very man to whom I was recommended by my

correspondents at Cairo when I was first here, who had absolutely

forgotten, but soon remembered me, as did many others, but my old

friend the Aga had been changed, and was then at Cairo.

We were not long arrived before we received from the Aga about fifty

loaves of fine wheat bread, and several large dishes of drest meat.

But the smell of these last no sooner reached me than I fainted upon

the floor. I made several trials afterwards, with no better success,

for the first two days, nor could I reconcile myself to any sort of

food but toasted bread and coffee. My servants had none of these

qualms, for they partook largely and greedily of the Aga's bounty.

I had kept the house five or six days after my arrival, during which

I corresponded with the Aga only by messages, and from my servant who

had passed between us he had learned the whole of our adventures. I

then went to the castle for an audience, and intreated the Aga that he

would procure six or eight camels to mount my men upon, and bring my

baggage from Saffieha. He gave a start at the first request, and would

not by any means hear of that proposal; he called it tempting God,

and assured me I should be cut off by the very men that had murdered

Mahomet Aga; that, having seen the cases and things which I had thrown

away at Umarack, they would follow my tract on to Saffieha, would

have taken every thing that I had left, and would be now pursuing me

up to the gates of Assouan. All this was extremely probable, but it

was not to such reasoning that I could be a convert. I had insinuated

that the well-fare of mankind was concerned in the recovery of

those papers; that there was among them recipes, which, if they did

not totally prevent the plague, and the small-pox, would at least

greatly lessen their violence and duration. This, and perhaps a more

forcible insinuation, that he should not be without a recompence for

any trouble that he gave himself on my account, brought him at last to

consent to my request, and we arranged our expedition accordingly.

Our first step was to send for Idris and the Arab from Daroo, for

neither of them would enter the town with us, for fear some story

should be trumped up against them regarding Mahomet Towash's murder,

which would not have failed to have been the case had not we been with

them; but upon the Aga sending a man of confidence for them, they both

came without delay, and were lodged in my house, under my protection.

The night following, everything being ready, we set out after it was

dark from the castle, all upon dromedaries. The gates of the town were

open for us, and were immediately shut upon our passing through them;

the Aga fearing his own people as much as the Bishareen; and saying

always, by way of proverb, "Every body is an enemy in the desert." The

Aga had sent four servants belonging to his stables to accompany us;

active, lively, and good-humoured fellows. Our people too, were all

recruited. Ismael, and blind Georgis, were left to take care of the

house in my absence. About twelve o'clock we got into a valley, and

hid ourselves in the lowest part of it, under a bank, for the night

was exceeding cold; but we had spirits with us, which we drank with

moderation. We there refreshed our beasts about half an hour, and

again stopt in a valley among trees. I was afraid that we had passed

our baggage in the dark, as none of us were perfectly sure of the

place; but as soon as light came, we recovered our tract as fresh and

entire as when we made it. After having gone about half an hour in

our former footsteps, we had the unspeakable satisfaction to find our

quadrant and whole baggage; and by them the bodies of our slaughtered

camels, a small part of one of them having been torn by the haddaya,

or kite.

It was agreed we should not stay here, but load and depart

immediately; this was done in an instant; five camels easily carried

the loads, with a man upon them besides; and there were three more

camels, upon which we rode by turns. We made a brisk retreat from

Saffieha to Syene, which is about forty miles. At a little past four

in the afternoon we entered the town again, without any accident

whatever, or without having seen one man in our journey.

Here then we were to close our travels through the desert, by

discharging the debts contracted in it. We had now got our credit and

letters, which furnished us with money. I began by recompensing Idris

Welled Hamran, the Hybeer, for his faithful services. The next thing

was to keep our faith with our prisoner. I had made Idris chuse him a

good camel, cloathed him anew, and gave him dresses for his two wives,

with a load of dora. I then dispatched him with the Aga's protection,

wondering what men we were, who, without compulsion or subterfuge,

kept our words so exactly. Though rich beyond his hopes, and so very

lately our enemy, the poor fellow, with tears in his eyes, declared,

if I would permit him, he would only go back and deliver up what I had

given him to his family, and return to me at Syene, and follow me as

my servant wherever I should go.

Although we had wherewithal to have bought proper dresses, I thought

it better to do this when we should come to Cairo. We got each of

us a coarse barracan, for cleanliness only, and a pair of trowsers.

I furnished Ismael with a green turban, to give us some weight with

the vulgar during our voyage down the Nile. I then went to my friend

the Aga, to concert the measures that remained necessary for leaving

Assouan and beginning our journey. He testified the greatest joy at

seeing us again. He had been informed of our whole expedition by his

servants the night before, and praised us, in the presence of his

attendants, for our alacrity, steadiness, and courage under the great

fatigues of travelling. Ismael had told him of the trees and plants

which I painted, and he expressed great curiosity to see them when

I should find it convenient. From the known disposition of those

people, that what they desire must be granted instantly, I asked him

whether he was at leisure or not to see them? He said, "By all means;

it was a good time." I then sent Michael my servant for a book of

trees, and one of fishes.

In the interim arrived one of their priests, or an Imam, who are

esteemed the most learned of their clergy. Ill-humour and ill-breeding

is the characteristic of violent people of all religions; a Christian

fanatic is not one bit more charitable towards those that differ from

him than a Turkish saint; the greatest difference between them is the

turban. Though I was the only reason of his coming there at that time,

he passed me with the most contemptible indifference, his eyes half

shut and lifted up to heaven, full of that exalted pride by which his

great master fell from happiness. "I wish to know, (says he to the

Aga, regardless of me) if that Kafr saw any thing of Mahomet Towash in

the desert." The Aga asked me, I saw, with some degree of shame, and I

answered him:--"I saw Mahomet Towash alive at Chendi, richly cloathed

as if he had been at Mecca. He had twelve or fourteen men armed with

firelocks, and about fourscore Tucorory, each with a lance in his

hand, to whom he was to give food and water in crossing the desert.

There were three Hybeers, all Bishareen, who had come from Suakem

with the caravan, and were carrying back senna to the neighbourhood

of Syene. I offered to join company with them; and though one Hybeer

was enough for him, yet, to distress me as being a Christian, he took

the whole three along with him. In vain Sittina, Wed Ageeb's sister,

and Wed el Faal's mother, desired him to leave one of the Bishareen

Hybeers for me, or rather to join our companies together, for the

Bishareen were not to be trusted. Contrary to the desire of the chief

of the Arabs, he took away the three Hybeers, to disappoint me; he

found them three murderers, and left me the only honest man whom he

did not know. God punished the presumption and pride of which he was

full, just as this Moullah, who last came in, and sits before you,

appears to be."

The Aga then asked me, if I saw him afterwards? "You know, I suppose,

the story. One of the three Hybeers went to Abou Bertran, a principal

Shekh of the Bishareen, and prepared a party to meet them on the

road at the next station, while the other two Hybeers, their guides,

took care to deceive him by lies, and carried him directly upon the

road where the plot was laid. About twenty men on camels, armed with

lances, and as many young men on foot, with swords, came to meet him,

and those upon camels made their beasts kneel down at some distance

from him, as out of respect coming to kiss his hands, as of a holy

person belonging to the Caaba, their sanctuary at Mecca.

"The vain, imprudent man dismounted from his camel to give them a

more easy opportunity of paying him their respects, and when one of

them held him by the hand in token of friendship, another cut him

across the hams with a broad-sword, and a third run him through the

back with a lance. He endeavoured to put his hands to his pistols,

but it was too late. They afterwards persuaded his servants, who

had fire-arms in their hands, and, like fools, did not use them, to

capitulate; and, after they had disarmed them, they carried them aside

and murdered them also, then took away all the water and camels,

and left the Tucorory to die with thirst. You asked me when I saw

him after his leaving Chendi? I tell you it was at a station of the

Bishareen, two hours before you come to Umarack; his body lay upon the

sand withered and dried, but not corrupted; his hough of the right

leg, and back-sinew of the left, just above the heel, were cut asunder

by a sword. The wounds through his body were apparent. The lance, I

apprehend, had some crooks below the head of it, as is their custom,

because a considerable quantity of his bowels were drawn out at the

back. He had two wounds upon his head, which I suppose were given him

after he was dead, for they had cut through the skull entirely, and

any one of them would have been mortal in a moment. Ismael and the

Barbarin threw sand over him. For my part, I paid no sort of respect

to the carcase of a man, who, when living, had shewed so little for

my preservation. We went to the right, and followed some footsteps;

we saw three men dead, all big and corpulent; they were all thrust

through with three lances; each of them had his throat cut, and one

his jaw broken.

"All the next day the road was strewed with the bodies of the

Tucorory, and the day after, at nine o'clock in the morning, we found

his horse dead; the day following we found dead bodies of people, who

had perished with thirst, scattered here and there like the tract

of a pursuit after a battle; their dry bottles, made of gourds,

were grasped in their hands, and some held them to their mouths as

if sucking them. God, as I say, punished this man, by allowing his

pride and presumption to blind him; for, had we joined our companies,

there could not have been a better place imagined to have fought

the Bishareen than that spot, had they dared to attack, which is not

probable. It was a narrow, deep, sandy strait, and rugged on each

side of it. We could have put our camels, with our water, in perfect

security behind us, while our fire-arms, safely from the rock, would,

with the first discharge, have destroyed the best men among them, and

scattered the herd of them into the desert. The Tucorory would have

seized their camels and water, of which they had but a small quantity,

or we should have shot the skins through, or the Aga's horse would

have overtaken them. In either case, as they were two days journey

from Abou Bertran, the greatest part of them would have died with

thirst; and if they had chosen to follow us, which after this rude

treatment they would not have done, they could never have reached us

till we had got out of their territory into those of the Ababdé, where

they were as much strangers, and in as great danger as we, and the

wells not capable of filling their girbas, so that they would have

brought themselves both into distress and dispute. This is all that I

know of Mahomet Towash."

The Aga said to himself, "Ullah Akbar;" and several of the company

made their private ejaculations. The Imam had not yet spoke, but

addressing himself to the Aga, "True it is, says he, God is great, and

does what seems to him best; or who would have thought that a servant

of the Caaba should be forsaken, while Kafrs like them, a thousand of

them not of the account of one hair of that man's head, were protected

by him, and arrived safe and unhurt!"

I was exceedingly angry, but weak in health and spirits; besides,

I despised the Imam heartily, and was determined to be silent. But

directly addressing himself to me, which he hitherto had not done,

"I wonder, says he, how a Kafr like you, a man of no more worth

than the dust under a mussulman's feet, should dare to wear a white

turban, which none are permitted to do but true believers, and men of

consideration in learning, or in the law!" I could hold no longer.

"Kafr! said I, do you call me? You are a Kafr yourself. I worship

God as you do, and Jesus Christ, whom Mahomet calls Rouch Ullah, the

Spirit of God. Kafrs worship stones and trees, are ill-bred, and rude

in manners, such as you are. Sir, said I to the Aga, I demand of you

if the grand signior, whose firman you have in your hand, when writing

of me, calls me Kafr? Does Ali Bey, and the Porte of Janizaries, use

such opprobrious expressions? If they do not, you suffer me to be

affronted in contempt of their orders, in a fortress which you command

in the grand signior's name, which is not to your credit either as a

mussulman or a soldier."--"He is right," says an old man, who seemed

to be a secretary. "Moullah, says the Aga, I did not expect this

from you; I did not think you could be so absurd as to ask any man,

returning from so dangerous a journey as his, the reason of the colour

of his turban."--"I do not refer that to his discretion, said I, there

is my firman; I insist upon its being read at the divan, and I will

afterwards dress my head and my body in any colour that is permitted

me therein, and that I know is every sort of colour[51], and I insist

that my firman may be read in the Divan."

"Moullah, says Hagi Ismael, addressing himself to the Imam, who had

twice attempted to speak but could not get permission, you put me in

mind of these liars and thieves at Teawa; all their turbans were white

or green; they call themselves mussulmen, and sheraffe, and men of

learning like you; but I swear, greater Kafrs than they were never in

hell. I wish you may not be something of that kind." Hagi Ismael was

standing behind. He had a barracan like us, a red cap and no turban,

and the Moullah, I believe, did not know he was a Turk, and still less

that he was a sherriffe; I fancy he rather took him for a Greek, from

the bad manner in which he pronounced the Arabic. "Friend, said the

priest, take this piece of advice from me, and speak more reverently

of your betters, or you may have a chance to get your tongue scraped."

Hagi Ismael was never blessed with much temper. He was very honest,

but, though seventy years old, was as passionate as a child, and the

more so, as he did not understand the language. He was an officer in

the Porte of Janizaries, besides being a sherriffe; had been sent,

as I have already said, by the Bey to escort the Abuna to Abyssinia.

Unluckily at this time he understood what was said distinctly, and

came up close to the Moullah, saying, in a violent passion, "Kafr

Meloun Ibn kelb, _i. e._ Pagan accursed, and race of a dog! Do you

threaten me, a sherriffe, with a grey beard? Who are my betters? The

Aga is not my superior, were he a sherriffe, which he is not. He is

an officer of the janizaries as I am; he commands me to-day, and I

command him to-morrow; but, if it was not for his presence, I would

not leave that beard of yours till I had shaken your head from your

shoulders."

All now was confusion. I cried, "Hagi Ismael, for God's sake forbear."

Every body spoke, no body heard. The Moullah had crossed the room and

sat down beside the Aga, who said to him very sternly, "What Yagoube

may do, and what he may not do, in Syene, has never been confided to

you, though it has been to me, and I have not thought it necessary

to take your advice upon it. This man is the servant of a king. Were

you to insult him in Constantinople, his complaint would cost a much

greater man than you his life, even this day before sun-set. Who

taught you to call him Kafr whom you had never before seen, and then

abuse the janizary, who, besides, is a sherriffe, and an aged man,

whose hand better men than you kiss when they meet him in the street?

Go home and learn wisdom, since you cannot teach it; at least, don't

make the grand signior's castle the scene of your abuse and folly."

The Moullah upon this rebuke departed, very much humbled.

As Michael had brought the drawings, I turned to the trees and

flowers. The Aga was greatly pleased with them, and laughed, putting

them up to his nose as if smelling them. They did not offend him, as

they were not the likeness of any thing that had life. I then shewed

him a fish, and reached the book to an old man with a long beard,

but who had a very chearful countenance. He looked at it with great

surprise. The Aga had several times called him his father. "Do not be

angry, says he to me, if I ask you a question. I am not such a man

as the Moullah that is gone." "I will answer all your questions with

pleasure, said I, and, in your turn, you must not take the answer

ill." "No, no, said two or three of them, Hagi Soliman knows better."

_Soliman._ "Do you not believe, says he, that that fish will rise

against you at the day of judgment?" _Ya._ "I do not know, but I shall

be very much surprised if it does." "I assure you he will, says Hagi

Soliman." _Ya._ "Be it so, it is a matter of indifference to me."

_Sol._ "Do you know what God will say to you about that fish? Shall

I tell you?" _Ya._ "I have not the least idea, and you will oblige

me." _Sol._ "God will say to you, Did you make that fish? What will

you answer?" _Ya._ "I will answer, I did." _Sol._ "He will say to you

again, Make a soul to it." _Ya._ "I will answer, I cannot." _Sol._ "He

will say, Why did you make that fish's body, when you was not capable

to give it a soul? What can you answer then?" _Ya._ "I made that body,

because thou gavest me talents and capacity to do it. I do not make

the soul, because thou hast denied me power and ability, and reserved

that to thyself only." _Sol._ "Do you think he will be contented with

that answer?" _Ya._ "I do most certainly think so. It is truth, and I

do not think a more direct one can be given." _Sol._ "Aha! the Moullah

would tell you that will not do; painting things that have life is

idolatry, and the punishment is hell-fire." _Ya._ "Patience, then, my

case is desperate, for it is not a sin I intend to repent of." Thus

ended this curious discussion, and we went away in perfect good humour

one with the other. A number of the better sort drank coffee with me

in the evening. The Aga sent me two sheep, and, observing my feet much

inflamed and wounded, made me likewise a present of a pair of slippers

of soft Turkey leather to defend them from the inclemency of the

weather.

It was the 11th of December when we left Syene; we cannot say sailed,

for our mast being down, we went with the current and the oars, when

the wind was against us. In our voyage down the Nile we had but very

indifferent weather, clear throughout the day, exceedingly cold in the

night and morning; but, being better cloathed, better fed than in the

desert, and under cover, we were not so sensible of it, though the

thermometer shewed the same degrees. Above all, we had a good decent

provision of brandy on board, part of which I had procured from the

Aga, part from the Schourbatchie my landlord, neither of whom knew the

other had given me any, and both of them pretended to each other, and

to the world, that they never tasted fermented liquors of any kind,

nor kept them in their custody.

I had given to each of my servants, to Soliman and to the Greeks

likewise, a common blanket called a barracan, of the warmest and

coarsest kind, with a waistcoat and trowsers of the same, and all

of us, I believe, had consigned to the Nile the clothes in which we

passed the desert. The meanness of our appearance did not at all shock

us, since nothing contributes more to safety in a country like this.

I passed Shekh Nimmer not without regret, but it was night, and I was

very ill.

On the 19th we arrived at How, where the intermitting fever, which I

had at Syene, again returned, with unusual violence, and, what was

most unlucky, my stock of bark was almost exhausted, and the Rais had

business that obliged him to lie by for a day. As we were within a

small distance of Furshout, I dispatched one of the Barbarins, with a

camel, to the fathers at the monastery of Furshout informing them of

my arrival and very bad state of health, and requesting them to send

me some wheat bread, as mine was all consumed, and likewise some

rice, if they had any. Upon the Arab's first delivering his message

the fathers treated him as an impostor, declaring that they knew

from good authority that I was drowned in the Red Sea, which another

of them contradicted, being equally positive, from the same good

authority, that my death had happened from robbers in Abyssinia. The

Barbarin (a shrewd fellow) desired the fathers to observe, that, if I

had been drowned in the Red Sea, it was not possible I could be slain

by robbers on land two years afterwards; therefore, as one report

was certainly false, both might be so, and he assured them this was

the case, and that I was at How; but they laughed him to scorn, and

threatened to carry him to Shekh Hamam to punish him. The poor fellow

answered very pertinently, "If I had come in Yagoube's name for gold

or silver, then you might have distrusted me; but sure it is not worth

my while to hire a camel to come here from How, and go back again to

cheat you out of two loaves of bread and a pound of rice, which I

never tasted myself till I was with Yagoube, who made us partake of

every thing that he ate as long as it lasted, and fasted with us when

our meat was exhausted." They continued to ask him, where he had found

me? The fellow said, At Ras el Feel; and not being able to describe

where that was, a fresh altercation began, in which it was concluded

betwixt the two reverend disputants, that I had been drowned three

years before in the Red Sea, and therefore all the story of Ras el

Feel must be a lie.

It happened, as indeed was often the case in these matters, that my

Greek servant Michael had been more provident than I. He had thought

something of this kind might be possible, and therefore had desired

the Barbarin, if so it happened, to call at Shekh Ismael's at

Badjoura, and inquire of him in my name for a loaf or two of wheat

bread and some rice. This the Barbarin did with some diffidence, after

the refusal received from the fathers, and was very much surprised at

the chearful reception Shekh Ismael gave him. The bread and rice were

sent; he too had heard of my death, but was much easier convinced that

I was still alive than the reverend fathers had been, because more

desirous that it should be so.

Next day, the 20th, we arrived at Furshout, though Hagi Ismael's

invitation, and the unkindness of the fathers, had strongly tempted me

to take up my quarters at Badjoura to guard him against the pleurisy,

and the mistaking again the month of Ramadan. Some aukward apologies

passed at meeting; and if these fathers, the sole object of whose

mission was the conversion of Ethiopia and Nubia, were averse before

to the undertaking their mission, they did not seem to increase in

keenness from the circumstances which they learned from me.

On the 27th we sailed for Cairo. At a small village before we came to

Achmim we were hailed by a person, who, though meanly dressed, spoke

with the tone of authority, and asked for a passage to Cairo, which I

would have denied him if I could have had my own will; but the Rais

readily promised it him upon his first application. He afterwards told

me he was a Copht and a Christian, employed to gather the Bey's taxes

in such villages as were only inhabited by Christians, to which the

Bey did not permit his Turks to go. "I heard, says he, you was coming

down the Nile, and I way-laid you for a passage; the Rais knows who I

am, and that I shall not be troublesome to you; but I have a large sum

of money, and do not chuse to have it known, I hope, however, you will

give me your protection for the sake of my master."--"Indeed, friend,

said I, I have but seven shillings in the whole world, and my cloaths,

I believe, are not worth much above that sum, and it is but a few days

ago I was rejoicing at this as one of my greatest securities. But

since Providence has, I hope for your good, thrown you and your money

in my way, I will do the best for you that is in my power, the same as

if it was my own."

On the 10th of January 1773 we arrived at the convent of St George,

all of us, as I thought, worse in health and spirits than the day

we came out of the desert. Nobody knew us at the convent, either

by our face or our language, and it was by a kind of force that we

entered. Ismael, and the Copht went straight to the Bey, and I, with

great difficulty, had interest enough to send to the patriarch and

my merchants at Cairo, by employing the two only piastres I had in

my pocket. If the capuchins at Furshout received us coldly, these

Caloyeros of St George kept us still at a greater distance. It was

half by violence that we got admittance into the convent. But this

difficulty was to be but of short duration; the morning was to end it,

and give us a sight of our friends, and in the meantime we were to

sleep soundly. We had nothing else to do, having no victuals, and the

Caloyeros nothing to give us, even if they had been inclined, of which

we had not seen yet the smallest token.

This we thought, and this, in the common view of things, we were

intitled to think; but we forgot that we were at Cairo, no longer to

depend upon the ordinary or rational course of events, but upon the

arbitrary, oppressive will of irrational tyrants. Accordingly I had,

for about an hour, lost myself in the very uncommon enjoyment of a

most profound sleep, when I was awakened by the noise of a number of

strange tongues; and, before I could recollect myself sufficiently to

account what this strange tumult might be, eleven or twelve soldiers,

very like the worst of banditti, surrounded the carpet whereon I was

asleep. I had presence of mind sufficient to recollect this was not

a place where people were robbed and murdered without cause; and,

convinced in my own mind that I had given none, from that alone I

inferred I was not to be robbed or murdered at that instant. Without

this, the appearance of the strangers, their dress, language, and

behaviour, all joined to persuade me of the contrary. I asked them,

with some surprise, "What is the matter, Sirs? What is the meaning of

this freedom?" The answer was in Turkish, "Aya! Aya! Get up! the Bey

calls you."--"The Bey, says I, certainly calls at a very unseasonable

hour." The answer was, "Get up, or we will carry you by force."--"I

fancy friends, said I, you have mistaken me for some other person, I

have not been here above two hours, and since that time have never

been out of the convent. It is impossible the Bey should know that

I am here."--"What signifies it to us, says one in lingua Franca,

whether he knows you are here or not? he has sent us for you, and we

are come, Aya! Aya! get up!" He put his hand forward to take me by the

arm. "Keep your distance, you insolent blackguard, said I, remember I

am an Englishman; do not lay your hands upon me. If the Bey calls me,

he is master in his own country, and I will wait upon him; But hands

off: though I have not seen Mahomet Bey these three years, he knows

what is owing to his own character better than to suffer a slave like

you to lay his filthy hands on a stranger like me."--"No! No! Mallem,

says the man that spoke Italian, we will do you no harm. Ismael, that

you brought from Habesh, has been with the Bey, and he wants to see

you; and that is all."--"Then stay without, said I, till I am ready,

and I will come to you presently."

Out they went: I heard them crying to the Caloyeros for drink, but

they never in their lives were in a place where they could address

themselves worse for either meat or liquors; on the other hand, I did

not keep them long in dressing. I had no shirt on, nor had I been

master of one for fourteen months past. I had a waistcoat of coarse,

brown, woollen blanket, trowsers of the same, and an upper blanket of

the same wrapt about me, and in these I was lying. I had cut off my

long beard at Furshout, but still wore prodigious mustachoes. I had

a thin, white, muslin cloth round a red Turkish cap, which served me

for a night-cap, a girdle of coarse woollen cloth that wrapt round my

waist eight or ten times, and swaddled me up from the middle to the

pit of my stomach, but without either shoes or stockings. In the left

of my girdle I had two English pistols mounted with silver, and on

the right hand a common crooked Abyssinian knife, with a handle of a

rhinoceros horn. Thus equipt, I was ushered by the banditti, in a dark

and very windy night, to the door of the convent.

The Sarach, or commander of the party, rode upon a mule, and, as a

mark of extreme consideration, he had brought an ass for me, with

sods, or a carsaddle upon his back, the only animal that, to the shame

of our Christian rulers, any of our faith is suffered to ride on in

Cairo. The beast had not a light load, but was strong enough. The

difficulty was, his having no saddle, and there were no stirrups, so

that my feet would have touched the ground had I not held them up,

which I did with the utmost pain and difficulty, as they were all

inflamed and sore, and full of holes from the inflammation in the

desert. Nobody can ever know, from a more particular description, the

hundredth part of the pain I suffered that night. I was happy that it

was all external. I had hardened my heart; it was strong, vigorous,

and whole, from the near prospect I had of leaving this most accursed

country, and being again restored to the conversation of men.

The mule on which the Sarach rode went at a very brisk pace; my animal

did her best, but she could not keep up with the mule. Each man of

the soldiers, besides the rest of his arms, had a quarter-staff like

a watchman's pole, about nine feet long, with which every one in his

turn laid heartily on the ass to make her keep up with the Sarach's

mule. I had every reason to sympathize with the beast for the severity

of the blows, of which I was a perfect judge, as whether through

malice or heedlessness, every fourth stroke landed upon my back or

haunches, so that my flesh was discoloured for more than two months

afterwards. Speaking was in vain; you might as well have cried to the

wind not to blow. Few people walk in the streets of Cairo at night;

some we did meet who made us way, only observing to each other, when

we passed, that I was some thief the Janizary Aga had apprehended. In

this most disagreeable manner, I had rode near three miles, when I

arrived at the Bey's palace. There all was light and all was bustle,

as if it had been noon-day. I alighted with great difficulty from my

disconsolate ass, but with much greater pleasure than ever I mounted

the finest horse in the world. None of the people there knew what I

came for, but thought I was some Arab from the country. At last I saw

a Copht who had been a servant of Ali Bey. I told him who I was, and

he immediately knew me, but had not heard that I was arrived, and

still less that I was sent for; but he went in to the Bey's secretary,

who ordered my immediate admission.

In the mean time, my Sarach and company, who had used me so tenderly,

came round me, desiring the Bacsish, or money to drink. "Look you,

friend, said I, your master knows me well, and you shall see what is

the Bacsish he will give you." A number of Turks standing by asked,

"What did he do to you? Did he use you ill? Tell the Bey, and he will

do for him." My friend seemed to be sensible he was in a scrape, and,

though the order of the Bey came for my being admitted, he would not

allow me to pass, but put his back against the door till I promised to

say nothing to the Bey.

I was introduced to Mahomet Bey Abou Dahab. He was son-in-law to Ali

Bey my friend, whom he had betrayed, and forced to fly into Syria,

where he still was at the head of a small army. He had been present

with him the day I had my last audience, when he was plainly dressed

as a soldier. A large sofa, or rather two large sofas furnished with

cushions, took up a great part of a spacious saloon. They were of the

richest crimson and gold, excepting a small yellow and gold one like

a pillow, upon which he was leaning, supporting his head with his

left hand, and sitting just in the corner of the two sofas. Though it

was late, he was in full dress, his girdle, turban, and handle of his

dagger, all shining with the finest brilliants, and a finer sprig of

diamonds upon his turban than what I had seen his father-in-law wear

once when I was with him.

The room was light as day, with a number of wax-torches or candles. I

found myself humbled at the sight of so much greatness and affluence.

My bare feet were so dirty, I had a scruple to set them upon the rich

Persian carpets with which the whole floor was covered, and the pain

that walking at all occasioned gave me altogether so crouching and

cringing a look, that the Bey, upon seeing me come in, cried out,

"What's that? Who is that? From whence is he come?" His secretary

told him, and immediately upon that I said to him in Arabic, with a

low bow, "Mahomet Bey, I am Yagoube, an Englishman, better known to

your father-in-law than to you, very unfit to appear before you in

the condition I am, having been forced out of my bed by your soldiers

in the middle of the only sound sleep I have had for many years." He

seemed to be exceedingly shocked at this, and said to his attendants

in Turkish, "My people! who dares do this? it is impossible." Those

that were privy to the message reminded him of his sending for me, and

the cause, which he had forgot. They told him what Ismael had said,

and what the Copht, the tax-gatherer, had mentioned, all very much

in my favour. He turned himself with great violence on the sofa, and

said, "I remember the man well, but it was not a man like this, this

is bad payment indeed. I was going to ask you, Yagoube, says he, who

those were that had brought you out in such distress, and I find that

I have done it myself; but take my word, as I am a mussulman, I did

not intend it, I did not know you was ill."

My feet at that time gave me such violent pain that I was like to

faint, and could not answer, but as there were two flowered velvet

cushions upon one of the steps above the floor, I was obliged to kneel

down upon one of them, as I did not know how sitting might be taken.

The Bey immediately saw this, and cried out, "What now? what is the

matter?" I saw he thought I had some complaint to make, or something

to ask. I shewed him my feet in a terrible situation, the effects, I

told him, of my passing through the desert. He desired me immediately

to sit down on the cushion. "It is the coldness of the night, and

hanging upon the ass, said I, occasions this; the pain will be over

presently." "You are an unfortunate man, says the Bey, whatever I

mean to do for your good, turns to your misfortune." "I hope not,

Sir, said I; the pain is now over, and I am able to hear what may be

your commands." "I have many questions to ask you, says the Bey. You

have been very kind to poor old Ismael, who is a sherriffe, and to my

Christian servant likewise; and I wanted to see what I could do for

you; but this is not the time, go home and sleep, and I will send for

you. Eat and drink, and fear nothing. My father-in-law is gone, but,

by the grace of God, I am here in his place; that is enough." I bowed,

and took my leave.

The Bey had spoken several times to his servant in Turkish; but these

interruptions are too common at such audiences to be taken notice of.

I went out to the anti-chamber attended by five or six people, and

then into another room, the door of which opened to the lobby where

his soldiers or servants were. There was a slave very richly dressed,

who had a small basket with oranges in his hand, who came out at

another door, as if from the Bey, and said to me, "Here, Yagoube, here

is some fruit for you."

In that country it is not the value of the present, but the character

and power of the person that sends it, that creates the value; 20,000

men that slept in Cairo that night would have thought the day the Bey

gave them at an audience the worst orange in that basket the happiest

one in their life. It is a mark of friendship and protection, and the

best of all assurances. Well accustomed to ceremonies of this kind,

I took a single orange, bowing low to the man that gave it me, who

whispered me, "Put your hand to the bottom, the best fruit is there,

the whole is for you, it is from the Bey." A purse was exceedingly

visible. It was a large crimson one wrought with gold, not netted or

transparent as ours are, but liker a stocking. I lifted it out; there

were a considerable number of sequins in it; I put it to my mouth

and kissed it, in respect from whence it came, and said to the young

man that held the basket, "This is, indeed, the best fruit, at least

commonly thought so, but it is forbidden fruit for me. The Bey's

protection and favour is more agreeable to me than a thousand such

purses would be."

The servant shewed a prodigious surprise. In short, nothing can be

more incredible to a Turk, whatever his quality may be, than to think

that any man can refuse money offered him. Although I expressed myself

with the utmost gratitude and humility, finding it impossible to

prevail upon me, the thing appeared so extraordinary, that a beggar

in a barracan, dressed like those slaves who carry water, and wash the

stairs, should refuse a purse of gold, he could no longer consent to

my going away, but carried me back to where the Bey was still sitting.

He was looking at a large piece of yellow sattin. He asked the usual

question, "How, now? What is the matter?" To which his slave gave him

a long answer in Turkish. He laid down the sattin, turned to me, and

said, "Why, what is this? You must surely want money; that is not your

usual dress? What! does this proceed from your pride?"

"Sir, answered I, may I beg leave to say two words to you? There is

not a man to whom you ever gave money more grateful, or more sensible

of your generosity in offering it me, than I am at this present.

The reason of my waiting upon you in this dress was, because it is

only a few hours ago since I left the boat. I am not however a needy

man, or one that is distressed for money; that being the case, and

as you have already my prayers for your charity, I would not deprive

you of those of the widow and the orphan, whom that money may very

materially relieve. Julian and Rosa, the first house in Cairo, will

furnish me with what money I require; besides, I am in the service

of the greatest king in Europe, who would not fail to supply me

abundantly if my necessities required it, as I am travelling for

his service."--"This being so, says the Bey, with great looks of

complacency, what is in my power to do for you? You are a stranger

now where I command; you are my father's stranger likewise, and that

is a double obligation upon me: What shall I do?"--"There are, said

I, things that you could do, and you only, if it were not too great

presumption for me to name them."--"By no means, if I can I will do

it; if not, I will tell you so."

I saw by the Bey's manner of speaking that I had risen considerably

in character in his opinion since my refusal of the money. "I have,

Sir, said I, a number of countrymen, brave, rich, and honest, that

trade in India, where my king has great dominions." He said, as half

to himself, "True, we know that." "Now there are many of these that

come to Jidda. I left there eleven large ships belonging to them, who,

according to treaty, pay high duties to the customhouse, and, from

the dictates of their own generosity and magnificence, give large

presents to the prince and to his servants for protection; but the

sherriffe of Mecca has of late laid duty upon duty, and extortion

upon extortion, till the English are at the point of giving up the

trade altogether." "Ibn Cahaba, says he, (which is, son of a wh--re,)

he paid for that when I was at Mecca." "The Bey took Mecca," says a

man at my shoulder. "Why, says the Bey, when they say you are such

a brave nation, why don't you beat down Jidda about his ears? Have

you no guns in your ships?" "Our ships, Sir, said I, are all armed

for war; stout vessels, full of brave officers and skilful seamen:

Jidda, and much stronger places than Jidda, could not resist one of

them an hour. But Jidda is no part of our dominions; and, in countries

belonging to stranger princes we carry ourselves lowly, and trade in

peace, and never use force till obliged to it in our own defence."

"And what would you have me to do?" says he. "Our people, replied

I, have taken a thing into their head which I am satisfied they are

well founded in: They say, that if you would permit them to bring

their ships and merchandize to Suez, and not to Jidda, they might

then depend upon your word, that, if they were punctual in fulfilling

their engagements, they should never find you failing in yours."

"That they shall never have to say of me, says the Bey; all this is

to my advantage. But you do not tell me what I am to do for you?"

"Be steady, Sir, said I, in your promise; it is now late, but I will

come again to settle the duties with you; and be assured, that when

it is known at home what, at my private desire, you have done for

my country in general, it will be the greatest honour that ever a

prince conferred on me in my life." "Why, let it be so, says he, bring

coffee; see you admit him whenever he calls; bring a caftan[52]."

Coffee was accordingly brought, and I was cloathed in my caftan. I

went down stairs with my barracan hid under it, and was received with

greater respect by the bye-standers than when I came up; the man was

the same, but it was the caftan that made the difference. My friend

the Sarach and his banditti were ready at the door with a mule, which

had gilt stirrups, and was finely caparisoned.

I went back with full as much speed as I came, but free from those

salutations of the quarter-staff, which I still felt upon my haunches.

The scale of politeness was now turned in my favour; and to shew their

respect for me, the soldiers knocked down every person they overtook

in the streets, giving him first a blow with the quarter-staff upon

the head, then asking him, why he did not get out of the way? All my

people at St George had given me over for lost, or thought I had gone

home to the French merchants, and taken my bed there.

I was twice after this with Mahomet Bey, in which time I concluded

the agreement in favour of the English merchants. Instead of 14 per

cent, and an enormous present, the Bey agreed for 8, and no present

at all, and at his own expence sent the firman to Mocha, together

with my letter, a copy of which, and instructions given in India in

consequence, I have here subjoined.

Mr Greig, capt, Thornhill's lieutenant, whom I have mentioned as

having seen at Jidda, was the first who came down the Gulf to Suez in

the Minerva, and in the whole voyage, both by sea and after at Cairo,

behaved in a manner that did honour to his country.

In the two subsequent visits which I paid to Mahomet Bey, I received

the firman, and had a conversation before the Bey with the man that

was to go express to Mocha; not that I thought my recommendation was

of any consequence after his receiving orders from the Bey, but I

knew very well, as diligence was recommended to him, that it might

be secured by a small gratuity given unknown to the Bey. Two other

similar presents, of no great value, were likewise given to the two

servants who had assisted me in procuring the firman, the original of

which I left with the Venetian consul. I thought it was unbecoming

of me to starve a cause that promised to be both a private emolument

and public benefit; and, as I never expected, so I never received the

smallest return or acknowledgement either public or private.

It may be said, that the trade carried on there by Suez and the

Isthmus would not be of any advantage to the India Company, but rather

a detriment to it. Such was the answer I got from Lord North upon my

first interview with his Lordship after my return, and upon which I

shall not pretend to decide. But this I shall submit to the public,

whether, when a great object, such as that was, is unexpectedly in the

power of an individual, he is not obliged, as a good citizen, to avail

himself of the occasion that offers, and leave it to that part of the

public concerned, to determine whether they can make it of service to

them or not.

I have read, either in Abbé Prevot or M. de Maillet, (the reader will

assist me, as neither of these books are in my hands at present) that

the French, in the beginning of this century, offered a very large

sum of money to the government of Cairo, to be allowed to send only

an advice-boat to Suez, to carry and bring back their dispatches from

their settlements in India, but they were constantly refused; both

the India Company and British Government are, by my means, now in

possession of that privilege, and I am informed it has already been of

use, both in public and private dispatches.

I must further be permitted to say, that, independent of these

particulars, it seemed very strange that, considering the immense

empire which belonged to Britain in the East Indies, the Company

and their servants should be, to a man, so perfectly ignorant of

the Red Sea and ports in it, and so indifferent as to the means

of being better informed; a sea which washed the shores of their

conquests, and came, at the same time, within two days journey of the

Mediterranean. To my endeavours it is owing that so many ingenious

gentlemen have had an opportunity of lending their hands to perfect

the chart of that sea, which I hope is now in great forwardness.

It would perhaps, too, have been more generous and liberal-minded

in them, had they honoured the author of the liberty and safety

they enjoyed, with at least a word of their approbation. Prisons

and chains, ransoms, torments, and perhaps death itself, were the

calamities they escaped by my preparing their way, and to this would

have been added the miscarriage of their design and their undertaking

likewise[53].

Copy of Mr BRUCE'S Letter to the Gentlemen trading to

the Red Sea from the British Settlements BOMBAY and

BENGAL.

"CAIRO, _1st February, 1773_.

GENTLEMEN,

At the desire of several of the gentlemen trading to Jidda in

the year 1769, I have spoken to the Bey of Cairo (Mahomet Bey,)

that he would give permission for bringing the India ships

directly to Suez, without stopping at Jidda, where they were

constantly ill-treated by the sherriffe, and neither payments

punctual nor their effects in safety. Mahomet Bey expressed

all the desire possible to have this speedily executed. He

dispatched this express, in which I inclose you the terms of

agreement, with a translation from the Arabic original. You will

see he renounces all presents, which, however, it will be always

prudent to give. Moderate ones will serve, provided he behaves

faithfully and generously, as I believe firmly he will. He seeks

8 per cent. customs, and leaves it in your option to pay this in

goods or money, and 50 patackas anchorage for each vessel; this

is for the captain of the port of Suez.

"Arrived at Suez, you will do well to give notice to any of

the houses you chuse to address yourselves to. There are three

French houses of note here; Mess. Napollon and Co. Mess. Rosa

and Co. and Mess. l'Anglade and Co.; and these three are rich

houses, in great credit, and with whom you are very safe. There

is also an Italian house of credit equal to these, but not so

rich; it is Pini and Co. It will always be your interest, if

more than one ship comes, to address yourselves to separate

houses, for by this means you will be sooner dispatched, have

more friends, less risk, and more intelligence.

"As I have no view in this but your advantage, so I will not

take upon myself to answer for any consequences. You know what

Turks are. I never saw one of them to be trusted in money

affairs. You must keep your eyes open, and deal for ready money.

You will, however, be much safer, be better used, have better

markets, and be sooner dispatched; and if any of your cargo

remains unsold, you may leave it here in great security, with a

certainty of its selling in winter; and the money will be either

remitted to England, or ready for you here at your return, as

you direct.

"Cairo is in lat. 30° 2´ 45´´; two days and a half easy journey

from it is Suez, in lat. 29° 57´ 15´´. Ras Mahomet, the Cape

that forms the eastern shore of the entrance into the Gulf of

Suez, is in lat. 27° 54´ 10´´. You should make this Cape while

it bears N. E. or N. E. by E. at farthest, for farther east is

the entrance of a gulf which has often been mistaken for that

of Suez. Lastly, Tor, the first inhabited place after passing

the Cape, is in lat. 28° 12´ 4´´; here you may have provisions,

water, and a pilot.

"There are no English merchants at Cairo; but there comes, from

time to time, a wandering sort of sharpers under that name,

either from Mahon, the Greek islands, or Leghorn; and after

an establishment of one year, break and disappear. Be careful

of having any thing to do with these, for they will either rob

you themselves, or betray you to the government, or both. There

is no safety but with the three French and one Italian house,

before mentioned. If you address yourself to the government, in

your affairs of tariffs and firmans, you may do it through means

of the Venetian consul, immediately upon your arrival, putting

yourselves under his protection. He is a man of honour and

credit, and is a colonel in the service of his state. Let him

send you the tariff of the Bey before you come to Cairo, or land

an ounce of cargo, and you will satisfy him for his trouble. He

does not trade, but is very well-affected to our nation, and

there is no consul here but the French and Venetian.

"In a word, Gentlemen, I have seen your trade to Jidda, and it

is a ruinous one, and the sherriffe, now poor and hungry, will

every day rob you more and more. After the sealing up the house,

and exacting part of the effects of the captains who died at

Jidda, there is no safety for you but either at Mocha or Suez.

I am always,

GENTLEMEN,

Your most obedient and most humble serv^t.

JAMES BRUCE."

"_To Captain_ Thornhill _of the_ Bengal Merch^t, _Captain_

Thomas Price _of the_ Lion, _or any other of the_ English

_vessels trading to_ Jidda."

_P. S._ "I send you a copy of the firman; also letters for the

governors of Bombay and Bengal, inclosing the same; you will

see the translator be a person of trust, and have no interest

in deceiving you. If I did not think you very safe at Suez I

would not write you. You are to bring no coffee, or any produce

of Arabia, at least the first voyage, till you make your terms

here. I inclose you a letter from the chief of the customhouse.

J. B."

Copy of Instructions from the Managers of the Suez Adventure, to

Mr JOHN SHAW, and Captain WILLIAM GREIG.

"GENTLEMEN,

The proprietors of the Suez Adventure having made choice of

you to conduct the undertaking, it is our duty as managers to

give you the necessary instructions. Inclosed you will receive

invoice and bills of loading of the cargo, and likewise of the

freight loading on the Bengal Merchant, on account and risk of

the concerned, which you are to dispose of in the gulf of Mocha,

Jidda, or Suez, on the most advantageous terms, observing at the

same time, as nearly as possible, the following instructions:

"As many unforeseen accidents may happen that we cannot guard

against, and as the proprietors have placed in us an implicit

confidence, we now delegate to you, Gentlemen, full power and

authority to conduct and manage this new undertaking, for which

your credit, as well as ours, is engaged; and though we hope it

is unnecessary to recommend to you as an object of the greatest

importance, and on which the success of all undertakings

depends, a good understanding and harmony between those who are

to execute, we are satisfied that your attention to the interest

of the proprietors, and your own reputation, will outweigh

every other consideration, and that nothing will interrupt that

union which is so absolutely necessary to insure success in new

undertakings like the present.

"You are to draw a commission of 5 per cent. on the sales.

Mr Shaw, as chief supercargo, will draw 3, and Capt. Greig 2

per cent. and on all freight in the same proportion as the

cargo. Passengers, or other emoluments that are customary, are

to be equally divided between you, and no separate interest

to be allowed. As it is usual in all voyages from this port,

where there is a supercargo, to allow one-sixth of the cargo

as privilege, in lieu of which 12,000 rupees will be divided

between you and the officers on return of the vessel.

"Mr Shaw, as chief supercargo, is to have the sole management

and disposal of the cargo, and Captain Greig to have the entire

management of the navigation of the vessels employed. At the

same time, we recommend and desire, that, in all points which

require advice in either of the departments, you consult with

each other, and that no material step be taken without such

advice and consultation; and, should there be a difference in

opinion, we expect a minute be made, and the reason for such

difference fully set forth, in order to be laid before the

proprietors at your return. To prevent any misunderstanding of

the general instructions, we shall separate, in the latter

part, the two branches of the naval and mercantile, and be more

clear and explicit in each particular department.

"The vessels to be employed in the voyage are the Bengal

Merchant, on board of which the cargo is shipped. The Cuddalore

schooner, Captain Wedderburn, is granted by the governor[54] to

the proprietors as a tender, to assist in the discovery of the

passage to Suez, and the proprietors are to pay half the sailing

charges. On her Mr Cunningham, a surveyor, is appointed, and

both he and the vessel are entirely under your direction, and

they are to receive, from time to time, such instructions as

you may judge necessary. The Suez pacquet is a small schooner

equipped for the purpose of attending the Bengal Merchant in the

most difficult parts of the navigation; and as she cannot be

further useful after your return from Suez to Mocha, we desire

she may be sold there, where frequently small vessels sell to

advantage.

"On your leaving the pilot you will make the best of your way,

with the other two vessels under your charge, to the Malabar

coast, and touch at Anjango and Cochin, taking in there coir,

hawsers, and water, or any thing you may stand in need of, and

without loss of time proceed direct to Mocha. On your arrival

there you must make inquiry if any pilots are come down from

Suez; should none be arrived, lose as little time as possible,

and proceed up above Jidda to Yambo, provided you hear no

unfavourable accounts from Suez, such as war, or any commotions

at Cairo, which you might think may endanger the success of the

voyage.

"If such accounts are rumoured at Mocha, trace them so as to

be fully satisfied there is foundation for them, and if you

have good authority to credit the reports propagated, and are

certain they are not spread with a view to discourage your

proceeding, in that case we advise your proceeding to Jidda

as most for the interest of the concerned. At Jidda you will

deliver the customary letters to the basha and sherriffe, and,

without taking notice of any further project, dispose of your

cargo, as the articles are all of the proper assortment for that

market, and we desire, in that case, you collect your returns

as expeditiously as possible; and if you find any considerable

freight for Bombay, and the season will admit your going there

from Mocha, so as to arrive in Bengal by the middle of October,

in that case you will purchase a cargo of cotton, and proceed

here directly. Whatever silver you may have after the purchase

of the cotton, you will pay into the Company's treasury for

bills on this presidency. If you cannot procure a good freight

at Jidda for Bombay, we desire you will proceed from Mocha to

the coast of Coromandel, and touch at Negapatnam, where letters

will be lodged for you.

"On your arrival at Mocha, should you hear no unfavourable

accounts of war, or any disturbances at Cairo, you will proceed

to Yambo, where you will again inquire if there are any pilots

acquainted with the passage to Suez. If you meet with any who,

upon examination, appear capable of conducing the vessel, we

recommend your taking them on board, but still be very cautious

how you trust them; order them to conduct you up the common

tract, and keep the two vessels with you till you are satisfied

of their abilities, then we advise your dispatching the

Cuddalore the outward passage, in order to survey it up to Suez,

and give them orders to join you there. But should you be so

unlucky as not to meet with pilots, there will be no alternative

but to proceed with the greatest care and caution the outward

passage, with your two tenders a-head both day and night, till

you reach Tor, where you will meet with pilots and water; and

as we have reason to believe the danger of the passage is then

over, if you find it to be the case, you will dispatch back the

Cuddalore to make a correct survey as far down as Jidda, in

the lat. of 21° 30´. As it cannot be supposed you will be able

to make an exact survey in going up in mid-channel, you will

instruct Captain Wedderburn to follow the surveyor's order,

but at the same time to make all necessary remarks himself, as

also his officers, and to finish the survey as expeditiously

as possible, and to return to the ship at Suez; but should

more time be taken up, and he finds it impracticable, he must

endeavour to go to Yambo, and there wait for the dispatches, if

he can do it with safety; if not, to return to Mocha, and remain

there to supply himself with such necessaries as he may stand in

need of, to be ready to make the best of his way to Bengal, as

soon as he receives your dispatches, and the monsoon will allow

him to proceed.

"On your arrival at Suez you will inquire of the master of

the port, or governor, whether or not he has any letters,

&c. from his master the Bey, respecting you? Should he have

none, you will desire him to forward the short letter from the

governor, informing him of the arrival of the ship at his

port. You must not land a piece of goods, or enter into any

agreement or contract, &c. till you hear from the Bey, and,

from the answer you receive, consult how to act; but let it be

with great caution, till you are perfectly satisfied of the

friendly disposition of the Bey towards you, as we have reason

to expect the Bey's answer will be polite and favourable, and

an invitation to visit Cairo. Mr Shaw will then proceed with

the purser, and any other of the officers you may think proper,

with a few lascars and servants, properly equipped, to make

the embassy brilliant and respectable. The letters, presents,

and musters of the cargo should go at the same time; and we

recommend that, on Mr Shaw's arrival at Cairo, after he retires

from the Bey, he makes a visit to the Venetian Consul, whom

Mr Bruce has mentioned very particularly in his letter. If he

finds him the same person he has described, he will receive from

him such necessary information as may be useful in his future

transactions, and will put himself under his protection in

preference to the French houses; but he will act with extreme

caution, till he discovers such connection is not disagreeable

to the Bey, with whom he must appear to be, on all occasions,

perfectly satisfied. We furnish you with a copy of Mr Bruce's

letter, to whom we consider ourselves much obliged for the

information he has given us. His letters you will find of great

service in conducting your business there, and to which we

advise your paying strict attention.

"We desire that Captain Greig may remain on board the ship

till all the cargo is dispatched and landed, in order to give

every necessary advice in transporting the same, and when that

is finished, Captain Greig is to proceed to Cairo, and afford

Mr Shaw any assistance he may require; and we desire, and

particularly recommend, that, as soon as the cargo is sold, and

Mr Shaw has made the necessary observations and remarks on the

reception he has met with, the goods that have sold to most

advantage, and of the sorts that will best answer in future,

and other occurrences, that you dispatch such accounts, by the

first conveyance you may have to Jidda, to Captain Anderson of

the Success galley, and duplicate, by the Suez pacquet to Mocha,

to Captain Wedderburn of the Cuddalore schooner, with orders for

him to proceed to Bengal without delay; and we desire that these

dispatches may be directed in a large pacquet to the governor

for his perusal, with draughts and remarks on the passage.

"As we think it of great consequence that you use all possible

dispatch in finishing your business at Grand Cairo, so as

to leave Suez as early as the season will permit, if the

Cuddalore[55] has been able to join you after the survey, you

will then proceed down the channel she has discovered; but if,

on the contrary, she has not joined you, and that the Suez

pacquet is likewise gone with the dispatches, you must then

procure good pilots, and, if possible, a small vessel for fear

of accidents, and go down the usual tract of the Suez vessels;

making particular remarks on that passage, proceed on to Mocha,

and you will attend to the former part of your instructions

respecting the destination of the vessel.

"Having now finished our general instructions, we think

it necessary to be more particular in each branch of your

departments.

{CUDBERT THORNHILL.

(Signed) {ROBERT HOLFORD.

{DAVID KILLICAN."

TO CAPTAIN GREIG.

"SIR,

"We rely on your knowledge, experience, and good conduct for

the navigating part of the voyage, which is entirely intrusted

to you; and though we have desired that you advise with Mr Shaw

on all difficult points, yet we give you a latitude to follow

your own opinion, though contrary to Mr Shaw's, but we expect

you both enter a minute, and set forth your reasons for being

of different opinions. Should it be a point of consequence,

we advise that you consult with all the officers, and their

opinions are to be recorded.

"We desire that a fair log-book be kept, signed by the officer

who leaves the deck at noon, in which book every remark and

transaction during the voyage is to be inserted, and no erasures

must be made, or leaves torn out. Inclosed is a letter from us

to Captain Wedderburn of the Cuddalore, directing him to follow

such orders as he may from time to time receive from you.

"At Ingerlee you will give him written orders to keep you

company, with such proper signals for day and night as may be

necessary; and should he, by stress of weather or any other

accident, part company, you will inform him of your first place

of rendezvous, Anjango and Cochin; should he arrive first, he

must remain till you come: Should you arrive and finish your

business before the arrival of the Cuddalore, you will wait two

or three days, and then proceed to Mocha, leaving orders for his

joining you there. If by any accident he should not join you

there, and you have got pilots for Suez, you must not lose time,

but proceed without him, leaving him instructions to proceed

on the survey: but should it so happen that you meet with no

pilots at Mocha, and the Cuddalore should not arrive, we still

recommend your waiting at Mocha as long as you think it prudent;

and if you have the Suez pacquet with you, you will proceed to

Suez if possible, and endeavour to make the island to the S. W.

of Cape Ras Mahomet, that you may not make any mistake and get

into the false gulf: but should you find it impracticable after

making every prudent attempt, you will then have a consultation

with Mr Shaw and your officers, and bear away for Jidda,

following the directions in your general instructions.

"The concerned has been at an immense expence to equip the

vessels with additional stores, which in any other voyage than

the present would be superfluous, we therefore desire (should

your voyage terminate at Jidda) that you endeavour to dispose of

such articles of stores as you are not in want of; but should

you arrive at Suez, let them remain till your return to Mocha,

and there, if you have an opportunity to dispose of them for

the advantage of the concerned, we desire it may be done.

"Should any of the officers be good draughts-men, we desire you

will encourage them to make draughts of every thing remarkable

in the Red Sea, and we will make them an acknowledgement for

their trouble; but we recommend that every remark, draught,

or drawing of the passage, may be collected together for the

governor's[56] perusal; and we hope you will take proper care

that, on your return, nothing transpire till the governor's

sentiments are known. Should Mr Shaw be obliged to stay with

the goods at Cairo, you are to let him keep an officer, and any

number of lascars he may require, and that you can spare them.

{CUDBERT THORNHILL.

(Signed) {ROBERT HOLFORD.

{DAVID KILLICAN."

Mahomet Bey being about to depart to give battle to his father-in-law,

I thought it was no longer convenient for me to stay at Cairo; I went

therefore the last time to the Bey, who pressed me very much to go to

the camp with him. I was sufficiently cured, however, of any more Don

Quixotte undertakings. I excused myself with every mark of gratitude

and profession of attachment; and I shall never forget his last words,

as the handsomest thing ever said to me, and in the politest manner.

"You won't go, says he, and be a soldier: What will you do at home?

You are not an India merchant?" I said, "No." "Have you no other

trade nor occupation but that of travelling?" I said, "that was my

occupation." "Ali Bey, my father-in-law, replied he, often observed

there was never such a people as the English; no other nation on earth

could be compared to them, and none had so many great men in all

professions by sea and land: I never understood this till now, that

I see it must be so, when your king cannot find other employment for

such a man as you, but sending him to perish by hunger and thirst in

the sands, or to have his throat cut by the lawless barbarians of the

desert."

I saw that the march of the Bey was a signal for all Egypt's being

presently in disorder, and I did not delay a moment to set out for

Alexandria, where I arrived without any thing remarkable. There I

found my ship ready; and the day after, walking on the key, I was

accosted by a friend of mine, a Turk, a man of some consequence. He

told me it was whispered that the Beys had met, and that Ali Bey had

been totally defeated, wounded, and taken. "We are friends, says

he; you are a Christian; and this connection of the Bey with the

Russians has exasperated the lower sort of people greatly against you

all. What is a day or two to you, now you are going at any rate? Be

advised; go on board your ship early in the afternoon, and make your

captain haul out beyond the Diamond[57], for mischief is at hand."

My captain was as ready as I; and we accordingly hauled out beyond

the Diamond. The weather was so clear, and the wind so directly fair,

that, contrary to custom, we set sail that very night, after being

witnesses that the mischief had begun, by the number of lights and

repeated firings of muskets we heard from the town.

Our vessel sprung a leak off Derna on the coast, where I was once

before shipwrecked. The wind being contrary, we put about ship, and

stood before it for Cyprus, our vessel filled apace, and we were

intending to put a cable round her waist when the leak was found. A

violent storm overtook us the night after. I apprehend our ship was

old, and the captain was again much alarmed, but the wind calmed next

day. I was exceedingly distressed with the Guinea-worm in my leg,

when the captain came and sat down by my bed-side. "Now the matter

is over, says he, will you tell me one thing? it is mere curiosity;

I will not let any one know." "Before I tell you, said I, I dare say

you will not; what is it?" "How many of those things, you know, says

he, winking, have you on board?" "Upon the word of a man, said I, I do

not know what you mean." "Ces morts! these dead men! how many have you

in these trunks? for last night the crew was going to throw all your

boxes overboard." "I can tell you, captain, said I, that you and

they had better been in bed sick of a fever, than been guilty of that

unprovoked violence. 'Brutal comme un Provençal,' is a proverb even in

your own country; I would not wish to have such a confirmation of the

truth of it. But there are my keys, in case another gale should come,

choose out of my trunks the one that, according to your idea, and

theirs, is likeliest to have a dead man in it, and then take another;

and the first one you find, throw them all overboard." I forced him

to open two of the chests, and, lucky it was, as I believe, for off

the island of Malta we had another violent gale, but which did us

no damage. At last, after a passage of about three weeks, we landed

happily at Marseilles.

_Nullum numen abest si sit prudentia; sed Te,

Nos facimus, Fortuna Deum, cæloque locamus._

JUVEN.

REGISTER

OF THE

BAROMETER AND THERMOMETER

in

Abyssinia, 1770.