But, notwithstanding all the variety and fatigue of the day, I could

find no rest here. I left my friend to a happy sleep, and sought

the hunting-seat, which lay still further up. It looks out far over

mountain and wood, the outlines of which were only to be recognised

against the clear night-sky, but the sides and depths of which were

impenetrable to my sight. This well-preserved building stood as empty

as it was lonely; no castellan, no huntsman was to be found. I sat

before the great glass doors upon the steps which run around the whole

terrace. Here, surrounded by mountains, over a forest-grown, dark soil,

which seemed yet darker in contrast with the clear horizon of a summer

night, with the glowing starry vault above me, I sat for a long time

by myself on the deserted spot, and thought I never had felt such a

solitude. How sweetly, then, was I surprised by the distant sound of a

couple of French horns, which at once, like the fragrance of balsam,

enlivened the peaceful atmosphere. Then there awakened within me the

image of a lovely being, which had retired into the background before

the motley objects of these travelling days, but which now unveiled

itself-more and more, and drove me from the spot back to my quarters,

where I made preparations to set off with the earliest.

[Side-note: Zwey-Brücken.]

The return was not used like the journey out. Thus we hurried

through Zwey-brücken (Deux-Ponts), which, as a beautiful and notable

residence, might well have deserved our attention. We cast a glance

upon the great, simple castle, on the extensive esplanades, regularly

planted with linden-trees, and very well adapted for the training of

race-horses, and on the large stables, and the citizens' houses which

the prince had built to be raffled for. All this, as well as the

costume and manners of the inhabitants, especially of the matrons

and maids, had reference to a distant connexion, and made plainly

visible the relation with Paris, from which, for a long time, nothing

transrhenane had been able to withdraw itself. We visited also the

ducal wine-cellars, situated before the city, which are extensive, and

furnished with large, well-made tuns. We went on further, and at last

found the country like that in the neighbourhood of Saarbrück. Between

wild and savage mountains are a few villages; one here gets rid of the

habit of looking about for corn. We mounted up, by the side of the

Hornbach, to Bitsch, which lies on the important spot where the waters

divide, and fall, a part into the Saar, a part into the Rhine. These

last were soon to attract us towards them. Yet we could not refuse our

attention to the little city of Bitsch, which very picturesquely winds

around the mountain, nor to the fortress, which lies above. This is

partly built on rocks, and partly hewn out of them. The subterraneous

chambers are particularly worthy of remark; here is not only space

sufficient for the abode of a number of men and cattle, but one even

lights upon large vaults for the drilling of troops, a mill, a chapel,

and whatever else could be required under-ground, provided the surface

were in a state of disturbance.

We now followed the down-rushing brooks through Bärenthal. The thick

forests on both the heights remain unused by the hand of man. Here

trunks of trees lie rotting on each other by thousands, and young

scions sprout up without number from their half-mouldered progenitors.

Here, in conversation with some companions on foot, the name Von

Dieterich again struck our ears, which we had often heard honourably

mentioned already in these woody regions. The activity and cleverness

of this man, his wealth, and the use and applications of it, all seemed

in proportion. He could with justice take delight in the acquisitions

which he increased, and enjoy the profits he secured. The more I saw

of the world, the more pleasure I took, not only in the universally

famous names, but in those also, especially, which were mentioned in

particular regions with reverence and love: and thus I easily learned

here, by a few questions, that Von Dieterich, earlier than others, had

known how to make successful use of the mountain treasures, iron, coal,

and wood, and had worked his way to an ever-growing opulence.

Niederbrunn, where we now arrived, was a new proof of this. He had

purchased this little place from the Count of Leiningen and other

part-owners, to erect important iron-works in the place.

Here in these baths, already founded by the Romans, floated around me

the spirit of antiquity, venerable relics of which, in fragments of

bas-reliefs and inscriptions, capitals and shafts, shone out strangely

towards me, from farm-houses, amidst household lumber and furniture.

[Side-note: Sesenheim.]

As we were ascending the adjacent Wasenburg also, I paid my respects

to a well-preserved inscription, which discharged a thankful vow to

Mercury, and is situated upon the great mass of rock which forms the

base of the hill on one side. The fortress itself lies on the last

mountain, looking from Bitsch towards Germany. It is the ruin of a

German castle built upon Roman remains. From the tower the whole of

Alsace was once more surveyed, and the conspicuous minster-spire

pointed out the situation of Strasburg. First of all, however, the

great forest of Hagenau extended itself, and the towers of this town

peered plainly from behind. I was attracted thither. We rode through

Reichshof, where Von Dieterich built an imposing castle, and after we

had contemplated from the hills near Niedermoder the pleasing course of

the little river Moder, by the forest of Hagenau, I left my friend on a

ridiculous coal-mine visitation, which, at Dutweil, might have been a

somewhat more serious business, and I then rode through Hagenau, on the

direct road--already indicated by my affection--to my beloved Sesenheim.

For all these views into a wild, mountain region, and then, again,

into a cheerful, fruitful, joyous land, could not rivet my mind's

eye, which was directed to an amiable, attractive object. This time,

also, the hither way seemed to me more charming than its opposite, as

it brought me again into the neighbourhood of a lady to whom I was

heartily devoted, and who deserved as much respect as love. But before

I lead my friends to her rural abode, let me be permitted to mention

a circumstance which contributed very much to enliven and enhance my

affection, and the satisfaction which it afforded me.

[Side-note: The "Vicar of Wakefield."]

How far I must have been behindhand in modern literature, may be

gathered from the mode of life which I led at Frankfort, and from

the studies to which I had devoted myself; nor could my residence in

Strasburg have furthered me in this respect. Now Herder came, and

together with his great knowledge brought many other aids, and the

later publications besides. Among these he announced to us the _Vicar

of Wakefield_ as an excellent work, with the German translation of

which he would make us acquainted by reading it aloud to us himself.

His method of reading was quite peculiar; whoever has heard him preach

will be able to form a notion of it. He delivered everything, this

romance included, in a serious and simple style, perfectly removed

from all dramatically imitative representation; he even avoided that

variety which is not only permitted, but even required, in an epical

delivery--a slight change of tone when different persons speak, by

which what every one says is brought into relief, and the actor is

distinguished from the narrator. Without being monotonous, Herder let

everything go on in the same tone, just as if nothing was present

before him, but all was merely historical; as if the shadows of this

poetic creation did not act livingly before him, but only glided gently

by. Yet this manner of delivery from his mouth had an infinite charm;

for, as he felt all most deeply, and knew how to estimate the variety

of such a work, so the whole merit of a production appeared purely and

the more clearly, as one was not disturbed by details sharply spoken

out, nor interrupted in the feeling which the whole was meant to

produce.

A Protestant country clergyman is, perhaps, the most beautiful

subject for a modern idyl; he appears, like Melchizedek, as priest

and king in one person. To the most innocent situation which can be

imagined on earth, to that of a husbandman, he is, for the most part,

united by similarity of occupation, as well as by equality in family

relationships; he is a father, a master of a family, an agriculturist,

and thus perfectly a member of the community. On this pure, beautiful,

earthly foundation, rests his higher calling: to him is it given to

guide men through life, to take care** of their spiritual education, to

bless them at all the leading epochs of their existence, to instruct,

to strengthen, to console them, and, if consolation is not sufficient

for the present, to call up and guarantee the hope of a happier future.

Imagine such a man, with pure human sentiments, strong enough not to

deviate from them under any circumstances, and by this already elevated

above the multitude, of whom one cannot expect purity and firmness;

give him the learning necessary for his office, as well as a cheerful,

equable activity, which is even passionate, as it neglects no moment

to do good,--and you will have him well endowed. But at the same time

add the necessary limitation, so that he must not only pause in a

small circle, but may also perchance pass over to a smaller; grant him

good-nature, placability, resolution, and everything else praiseworthy

that springs from a decided character, and over all this a cheerful

spirit of compliance, and a smiling toleration of his own failings and

those of others,--then you will have put together pretty well the image

of our excellent Wakefield.

[Side-note: The "Vicar of Wakefield."]

The delineation of this character on his course of life through

joys and sorrows, the ever-increasing interest of the story, by the

combination of the entirely natural with the strange and the singular,

make this novel one of the best which has ever been written; besides

this, it has the great advantage that it is quite moral, nay, in a pure

sense, Christian--represents the reward of a good will and perseverance

in the right, strengthens an unconditional confidence in God, and

attests the final triumph of good over evil; and all this without a

trace of cant or pedantry. The author was preserved from both of these

by an elevation of mind that shows itself throughout in the form of

irony, by which this little work must appear to us as wise as it is

amiable. The author, Dr. Goldsmith, has without question great insight

into the moral world, into its strength and its infirmities; but at the

same time he can thankfully acknowledge that he is an Englishman, and

reckon highly the advantages which his country and his nation afford

him. The family, with the delineation of which he occupies himself,

stands upon one of the last steps of citizen comfort, and yet comes in

contact with the highest; its narrow circle, which becomes still more

contracted, touches upon the great world through the natural and civil

course of things; this little skiff floats on the agitated waves of

English life, and in weal or woe it has to expect injury or help from

the vast fleet which sails around it.

I may suppose that my readers know this work, and have it in memory;

whoever hears it named for the first time here, as well as he who

is induced to read it again, will thank me. For the former, I would

merely make the cursory remark, that the vicar's wife is of that

good, busy sort, who allows herself and her own to want for nothing,

but who is also somewhat vain of herself and her own. There are two

daughters,--Olivia, handsome and more devoted to the external, and

Sophia, charming and more given to the internal; nor will I omit to

mention an industrious son, Moses, who is somewhat blunt and emulous of

his father.

If Herder could be accused of any fault in his reading aloud, it was

impatience; he did not wait until the hearer had heard and comprehended

a certain part of the progress, so as to be able to feel and think

correctly about it; hurrying on, he would see their effect at once,

and yet he was displeased even with this when it manifested itself. He

blamed the excess of feeling which overflowed from me more and more

at every step. I felt like a man, like a young man; everything was

living, true, and present before me. He, considering only the intrinsic

contents and form, saw clearly, indeed, that I was overpowered by the

subject-matter, and this he would not allow. Then Peglow's reflections,

which were not of the most refined, were still worse received; but he

was especially angry at our want of keenness in not seeing beforehand

the contrasts of which the author often makes use, and in suffering

ourselves to be moved and carried away by them without remarking the

oft-returning artifice. He would not pardon us for not seeing at once,

or at least suspecting at the very beginning, where Burchell is on the

point of discovering himself by passing over in his narration from the

third to the first person, that he himself is the lord of whom he is

speaking; and when, finally, we rejoiced like children at the discovery

and the transformation of the poor, needy wanderer, into a rich,

powerful lord, he immediately recalled the passage, which, according to

the author's plan, we had overlooked, and read us a powerful lecture

on our stupidity. It wall be seen from this that he regarded the work

merely as a production of art, and required the same of us, who were

yet wandering in that state where it is very allowable to let works of

art affect us like productions of nature.

I did not suffer myself to be at all perplexed by Herder's invectives;

for young people have the happiness or unhappiness, that, when once

anything has produced an effect on them, this effect must be wrought

out within themselves; from which much good, as well as much mischief,

arises. The above work had left with me a great impression, for which I

could not account, but properly speaking, I felt myself in harmony with

that ironical tone of mind which elevates itself above every object,

above fortune and misfortune, good and evil, death and life, and thus

attains to the possession of a truly poetical world. I could not,

indeed, become conscious of this until later; it was enough that it

gave me much to do at the moment; but I could by no means have expected

to be so soon transposed from this fictitious world into a similar real

one.

[Side-note: Pleasures of Travelling Incognito.]

My fellow-boarder, Weyland, who enlivened his quiet, laborious life by

visiting from time to time his friends and relations in the country

(for he was a native of Alsace), did me many services on my little

excursions, by introducing me to different localities and families,

sometimes in person, sometimes by recommendations. He had often spoken

to me about a country clergyman who lived near Drusenheim, six leagues

from Strasburg, in possession of a good benefice, with an intelligent

wife and a pair of amiable daughters. The hospitality and agreeableness

of this family were always highly extolled. It scarcely needed so much

to draw thither a young knight who had already accustomed himself to

spend all his leisure days and hours on horseback and in the open air.

We decided therefore upon this trip, and my friend had to promise that

on introducing me he would say neither good nor ill of me, but would

treat me with general indifference, and would allow me to make my

appearance clad, if not meanly, yet somewhat poorly and negligently. He

consented to this, and promised himself some sport from it.

It is a pardonable whim in men of consequence, to place their

exterior advantages in concealment now and then, so as to allow their

own internal human nature to operate with the greater purity. For

this reason the incognito of princes, and the adventures resulting

therefrom, are always highly pleasing; these appear disguised

divinities, who can reckon at double its value all the good offices

shown to them as individuals, and are in such a position that they

can either make light of the disagreeable or avoid it. That Jupiter

should be well pleased in his incognito with Philemon and Baucis, and

Henry the Fourth with his peasants after a hunting party, is quite

conformable to nature, and we like it well; but that a young man

without importance or name, should take it into his head to derive

some pleasure from an incognito, might be construed by many as an

unpardonable piece of arrogance. Yet since the question here is not of

such views and actions, so far as they are praiseworthy or blameable,

but so far as they can manifest themselves and actually occur, we

will on this occasion, for the sake of our own amusement, pardon the

youngster his self-conceit; and the more so, as I must here allege,

that from youth upwards, a love for disguising myself had been excited

in me even by my stem father.

This time, too, partly by some cast-off clothes of my own, partly by

some borrowed garments and by the manner of combing my hair, I had, if

not disfigured myself, yet at least decked myself out so oddly, that my

friend could not help laughing on the way, especially as I knew how to

imitate perfectly the bearing and gestures of such figures when they

sit on horseback, and which are called "Latin riders." The fine road,

the most splendid weather, and the neighbourhood of the Rhine, put

us in the best humour. At Drusenheim we stopped a moment, he to make

himself spruce, and I to rehearse my part, out of which I was afraid

I should now and then fall. The country here has the characteristics

of all the open, level Alsace. We rode on a pleasant foot-path over

the meadows, soon reached Sesenheim, left our horses at the tavern,

and walked leisurely towards the parsonage. "Do not be put out," said

Weyland, showing me the house from a distance, "because it looks like

an old miserable farm-house, it is so much the younger inside." We

stepped into the court-yard; the whole pleased me well: for it had

exactly that which is called picturesque, and which had so magically

interested me in Dutch art. The effect which time produces on all

human work was strongly perceptible. House, barn, and stable were just

at that point of dilapidation where, indecisive and doubtful between

preserving and rebuilding, one often neglects the one without being

able to accomplish the other.

[Side-note: The Pastor's Family.]

As in the village, so in the court-yard, all was quiet and deserted. We

found the father, a little man, wrapped up within himself, but friendly

notwithstanding, quite alone, for the family were in the fields. He

bade us welcome, and offered us some refreshment, which we declined.

My friend hurried away to look after the ladies, and I remained alone

with our host. "You are perhaps surprised," said he, "to find me

so miserably quartered in a wealthy village, and "with a lucrative

benefice; but," he continued, "this proceeds from irresolution. Long

since it has been promised me by the parish, and even by those in

higher places, that the house shall be rebuilt; many plans have been

already drawn, examined and altered, none of them altogether rejected,

and none carried into execution. This has lasted so many years, that

I scarcely know how to command my impatience." I made him an answer

such as I thought likely to cherish his hopes, and to encourage him

to pursue the affair more vigorously. Upon this he proceeded to

describe familiarly the personages on whom such matters depended, and

although he was no great delineator of character, I could nevertheless

easily comprehend how the whole business must have been delayed. The

confidential tone of the man was something peculiar; he talked to

me as if he had known me for ten years, while there was nothing in

his look from which I could have suspected that he was directing any

attention to me. At last my friend came in with the mother. She seemed

to look at me with quite different eyes. Her countenance was regular,

and the expression of it intelligent; she must have been beautiful in

her youth. Her figure was tall and spare, but not more so than became

her years, and when seen from behind, she had yet quite a youthful and

pleasing appearance. The elder daughter then came bouncing in briskly;

she inquired after Frederica, just as both the others had also done.

The father assured them that he had not seen her since all three had

gone out together. The daughter again went out at the door to look for

her sister; the mother brought us some refreshment, and Weyland, with

the old couple, continued the conversation, which referred to nothing

but known persons and circumstances; as, indeed, it is usually the

case when acquaintances meet after some length of time, that they make

inquiries, and mutually give each other information about the members

of a large circle. I listened, and now learned how much I had to

promise myself from this circle.

The elder daughter again came hastily back into the room, uneasy at

not having found her sister. They were anxious about her, and blamed

her for this or that bad habit; only the father said, very composedly,

"Let her alone; she has already come back!" At this instant she

really entered the door; and then truly a most charming star arose

in this rural heaven. Both daughters still wore nothing but German,

as they used to call it, and this almost obsolete national costume

became Frederica particularly well. A short, white, full skirt, with a

furbelow, not so long but that the neatest little feet were visible up

to the ankle; a tight white bodice and a black taffeta apron,--thus she

stood on the boundary between country girl and city girl. Slender and

light, she tripped along as if she had nothing to carry, and her neck

seemed almost too delicate for the large fair braids on her elegant

little head. From cheerful blue eyes she looked very plainly round, and

her pretty turned-up nose peered as freely into the air as if there

could be no care in the world; her straw hat hung on her arm, and thus,

at the first glance, I had the delight of seeing her, and acknowledging

her at once in all her grace and loveliness.

I now began to act my character with moderation, half ashamed to play

a joke on such good people, whom I had time enough to observe: for the

girls continued the previous conversation, and that with passion and

some display of temper. All the neighbours and connexions were again

brought forward, and there seemed, to my imagination, such a swarm

of uncles and aunts, relations, cousins, comers, goers, gossips and

guests, that I thought myself lodged in the liveliest world possible.

All the members of the family had spoken some words with me, the mother

looked at me every time she came in or went out, but Frederica first

entered into conversation with me, and as I took up and glanced through

some music that was lying around, she asked me if I played also? When I

answered in the affirmative, she requested me to perform something; but

the father would not allow this, for he maintained that it was proper

to serve the guest first with some piece of music or a song.

She played several things with some readiness, in the style which one

usually hears in the country, and on a harpsichord, too, that the

schoolmaster should have tuned long since, if he had only had time. She

was now to sing a song also, a certain tender-melancholy affair; but

she did not succeed in it. She rose up and said, smiling, or rather

with that touch of serene joy which ever reposed, on her countenance,

"If I sing badly, I cannot lay the blame on the harpsichord or the

schoolmaster; but let us go out of doors; then you shall hear my

Alsatian and Swiss songs; they sound much better."

[Side-note: Comparison with the "Vicar of Wakefield."]

During supper, a notion which had already struck me, occupied me to

such a degree, that I became meditative and silent, although the

liveliness of the elder sister, and the gracefulness of the younger,

shook me often enough out of my contemplations. My astonishment at

finding myself so actually in the Wakefield family was beyond all

expression. The father, indeed, could not be compared with that

excellent man; but where will you find his like? On the other hand, all

the dignity which is peculiar to that husband, here appeared in the

wife. One could not see her without at the same time reverencing and

fearing her. In her were remarked the fruits of a good education; her

demeanour was quiet, easy, cheerful, and inviting.

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