In spring I felt my health, but still more my youthful spirits, again

restored, and once more longed to be out of my father's house, though

with reasons far different from those on the first time. The pretty

chambers and spots where I had suffered so much had become disagreeable

to me, and with my father himself there could be no pleasant relation.

I could not quite pardon him for having manifested more impatience

than was reasonable at the relapse of my disease, and at my tedious

recovery; nay, for having, instead of comforting me by forbearance,

frequently expressed himself in a cruel manner, about that which lay in

no man's hand, as if it depended only on the will. And he, too, was in

various ways hurt and offended by me.

For young people bring back from the university general ideas, which,

indeed, is quite right and good; but because they fancy themselves very

wise in this, they apply them as a standard to the objects that occur,

which must then, for the most part, lose by the comparison. Thus I had

gained a general notion of architecture, and of the arrangement and

decoration of houses, and imprudently, in conversation, had applied

this to our own house. My father had designed the whole arrangement

of it, and carried through the building with great perseverance, and,

considering that it was to be exclusively a residence for himself

and his family, nothing could be objected to it; in this taste, also,

very many of the houses in Frankfort were built. An open staircase

ran up through the house, and touched upon large ante-rooms, which

might very well have been chambers themselves, as, indeed, we always

passed the tine season in them. But this pleasant, cheerful existence

for a single family--this communication from above to below--became

the greatest inconvenience as soon as several parties occupied the

house, as we had but too well experienced on the occasion of the

French quartering. For that painful scene with the king's lieutenant

would not have happened, nay, my father would even have felt all those

disagreeable matters less, if, after the Leipzig fashion, our staircase

had run close along the side of the house, and a separate door had been

given to each story. This style of building I once praised highly for

its advantages, and showed my father the possibility of altering his

staircase also; whereupon he fell into an incredible passion, which was

the more violent as, a short time before, I had found fault with some

scrolled looking-glass frames, and rejected certain Chinese hangings.

A scene ensued, which, indeed, was again hushed up and smothered, but

it hastened my journey to the beautiful Alsace, which I accomplished

in the newly-contrived comfortable diligence, without delay, and in a

short time.

I alighted at the Ghost (_Geist_) tavern, and hastened at once to

satisfy my most earnest desire and to approach the minster, which

had long since been pointed out to me by fellow-travellers, and had

been before my eyes for a great distance. When I first perceived this

Colossus through the narrow lanes, and then stood too near before it,

in the truly confined little square, it made upon me an impression

quite of its own kind, which I, being unable to analyse it on the spot,

carried with me only indistinctly for this time, as I hastily ascended

the building, so as not to neglect the beautiful moment of a high and

cheerful sun, which was to disclose to me at once the broad, rich land.

[Side-note: Arrival at Strasburg.]

And now, from the platform, I saw before me the beautiful region in

which I should for a long time live and reside: the handsome city,

the wide-spreading meadows around it, thickly set and interwoven with

magnificent trees, that striking richness of vegetation which follows

in the windings of the Rhine, marks its banks, islands, and aits. Nor

is the level ground, stretching down from the south, and watered by

the Iller, less adorned with varied green. Even westward, towards the

mountains, there are many low grounds which afford quite as charming

a view of wood and meadow-growth, just as the northern and more hilly

part is intersected by innumerable little brooks, which promote a

rapid vegetation everywhere. If one imagines, between these luxuriant

outstretched meads, between these joyously scattered groves, all land

adapted for tillage, excellently prepared, verdant, and ripening,

and the best and richest spots marked by hamlets and farm-houses,

and this great and immeasurable plain, prepared for roan, like a new

paradise, bounded far and near by mountains partly cultivated, partly

overgrown with woods; one will then conceive the rapture with which I

blessed my fate, that it had destined me, for some time, so beautiful a

dwelling-place.

Such a fresh glance into a new land in which we are to abide for a

time, has still the peculiarity, both pleasant and foreboding, that the

whole lies before us like an unwritten tablet. As yet no sorrows and

joys which relate to ourselves are recorded upon it; this cheerful,

varied, animated plain is still mute for us; the eye is only fixed on

the objects so far as they are intrinsically important, and neither

affection nor passion have especially to render prominent this or that

spot. But a presentiment of the future already disquiets the young

heart, and an unsatisfied craving secretly demands that which is to

come and may come, and which, at all events, whether for good or ill,

will imperceptibly assume the character of the spot in which we find

ourselves.

Descended from the height, I still tarried awhile before the face of

the venerable pile; but what I could not quite clearly make out, either

the first or the following time, was that I regarded this miracle as a

monster, which must have terrified me, if it had not, at the same time,

appeared to me comprehensible by its regularity, and even pleasing in

its finish. Yet I by no means busied myself with meditating on this

contradiction, but suffered a monument so astonishing quietly to work

upon me by its presence.

[Side-note: Meyer.]

I took small, but well-situated and pleasant lodgings, on the summer

side of the Fish-market, a fine long street, where the everlasting

motion came to the assistance of every unoccupied moment. I then

delivered my letters of introduction, and found among my patrons a

merchant who, with his family, was devoted to those pious opinions

sufficiently known to me, although, as far as regarded external

worship, he had not separated from the Church. He was a man of

intelligence withal, and by no means hypocritical in his actions. The

company of boarders which was recommended to me, and, indeed, I to

it, was very agreeable and entertaining. A couple of old maids had

long kept up this boarding-house with regularity and good success;

there might have been about ten persons, older and younger. Of these

latter, one named MEYER, a native of Lindau, is most vividly present

to me. From his form and face he might have been considered one of the

handsomest of men, if, at the same time, he had not had something of

the sloven in his whole appearance. In like manner his splendid natural

talents were deformed by an incredible levity, and his excellent temper

by an unbounded dissoluteness. He had an open, joyous face, more round

than oval; the organs of the senses, the eyes, nose, mouth, and ears,

could be called rich; they showed a decided fulness, without being too

large. The mouth was particularly charming, from the curling lips,

and his whole physiognomy had the peculiar expression of a rake, from

the circumstance that his eyebrows met across his nose, which, in a

handsome face, always produces a pleasant expression of sensuality. By

his jovialness, sincerity, and good-nature, he made himself beloved

by all. His memory was incredible; attention at the lectures cost him

nothing; he retained all that he heard, and was intellectual enough to

take some interest in everything, and this the more easily, as he was

studying medicine. All impressions remained lively with him, and his

waggery in repeating the lectures and mimicking the professors often

went so far, that when he had heard three different lectures in one

morning, he would, at the dinner-table, interchange the professors

with each other, paragraphwise, and often even more abruptly, which

parti-coloured lecture frequently entertained us, but often, too,

became troublesome.

The rest were more or less polite, steady, serious people. A pensioned

knight of the order of St. Louis was one of these; but the majority

were students, all really good and well-disposed, only they were not

allowed to go beyond their usual allowance of wine. That this should

not be easily done was the care of our president, one Doctor SALZMANN.

Already in the sixties and unmarried, he had attended this dinner-table

for many years, and maintained its good order and respectability. He

possessed a handsome property, kept himself close and neat in his

exterior, even belonging to those who always go in shoes and stockings,

and with their hat under their arm. To put on the hat, was with him

an extraordinary action. He commonly carried an umbrella, wisely

reflecting that the finest summer-days often bring thunderstorms and

passing showers over the country.

With this man I talked over my design of continuing to study

jurisprudence at Strasburg, so as to be able to take my degree as soon

as possible. Since he was exactly informed of everything, I asked

him about the lectures I should have to hear, and what he generally

thought of the matter. To this he replied, that it was not in Strasburg

as in the German universities, where they try to educate jurists in

the large and learned sense of the term. Here, in conformity with the

relation towards France, all was really directed to the practical, and

managed in accordance with the opinions of the French, who readily

stop at what is given. They tried to impart to every one certain

general principles and preliminary knowledge, they compressed as much

as possible, and communicated only what was most necessary. Hereupon

he made me acquainted with a man, in whom, as a _Repetent_,[1] great

confidence was entertained; which he very soon managed to gain from me

also. By way of introduction, I began to speak with him on subjects

of jurisprudence, and he wondered not a little at my swaggering; for

during my residence at Leipzig, I had gained more of an insight into

the requisites for the law than I have hitherto taken occasion to state

in my narrative, though all I had acquired could only be reckoned as a

general encyclopedical survey, and not as proper definite knowledge.

University life, even if in the course of it we may not have to boast

of our own proper industry, nevertheless affords endless advantages in

every kind of cultivation, because we are always surrounded by men who

either possess or are seeking science, so that, even if unconsciously,

we are constantly drawing some nourishment from such an atmosphere.

[Side-note: Taste for Medical Studies.]

My repetent, after he had had patience with my rambling discourse for

some time, gave me at last to understand that I must first of all

keep my immediate object in view, which was, to be examined, to take

my degree, and then, perchance, to commence practice. "In order to

stand the first," said he, "the subject is by no means investigated

at large. It is inquired how and when a law arose, and what gave the

internal or external occasion for it; there is no inquiry as to how

it has been altered by time and custom, or how far it has perhaps

been perverted by false interpretation or the perverted usage of the

courts. It is in such investigations that learned men quite peculiarly

spend their lives; but we inquire after that which exists at present,

this we stamp firmly on our memory, that it may always be ready when

we wish to employ it for the use and defence of our clients. Thus we

qualify our young people for their future life, and the rest follows in

proportion to their talents and activity." Hereupon he handed me his

pamphlets, which were written in question and answer, and in which I

could have stood a pretty good examination at once, for Hopp's smaller

law-catechism was yet perfectly in my memory; the rest I supplied with

some diligence, and, against my will, qualified myself in the easiest

manner as a candidate.

But since in this way all my own activity in the study was cut

off,--for I had no sense for anything positive, but wished to have

everything explained historically, if not intelligibly--I found for my

powers a wider field, which I employed in the most singular manner by

devoting myself to a matter of interest which was accidently presented

to me from without.

Most of my fellow-boarders were medical students. These, as is well

known, are the only students who zealously converse about their

science and profession even out of the hours of study. This lies in

the nature of the case. The objects of their endeavours are the most

obvious to the senses, and at the same time the highest, the most

simple and the most complicated. Medicine employs the whole man, for

it occupies itself with the whole man. All that the young man learns

refers directly to an important, dangerous indeed, but yet in many

respects lucrative practice. He therefore devotes himself passionately

to whatever is to be known and to be done, partly because it is

interesting in itself, partly because it opens to him the joyous

prospect of independence and wealth.

At table then I heard nothing but medical conversations, just as

formerly in the boarding-house of Hofrath Ludwig. In our walks and in

our pleasure-parties likewise not much else was talked about; for my

fellow-boarders, like good fellows, had also become my companions at

other times, and they were always joined on all sides by persons of

like minds and like studies. The medical faculty in general shone above

the others, with respect both to the celebrity of the professors and

the number of the students, and I was the more easily borne along by

the stream, as I had just so much knowledge of all these things that

my desire for science could soon be increased and inflamed. At the

commencement of the second half-year, therefore, I attended a course on

chemistry by Spielmann, another on anatomy by Lobstein, and proposed

to be right industrious, because by my singular preliminary or rather

extra knowledge, I had already gained some respect and confidence in

our society.

[Side-note: Preparations for Reception of Marie Antoinette.]

Yet this dissipation and dismemberment of my studies was not enough,

they were to be once more seriously disturbed; for a remarkable

political event set everything in motion, and procured us a tolerable

succession of holidays. Marie Antoinette, Archduchess of Austria and

Queen of France, was to pass through Strasburg on her road to Paris.

The solemnities by which the people are made to take notice that there

is greatness in the world, were busily and abundantly prepared, and

especially remarkable to me was the building which stood on an island

in the Rhine between the two bridges, erected for her reception and

for surrendering her into the hands of her husband's ambassadors. It

was but slightly elevated above the ground, had in the centre a grand

saloon, on each side smaller ones; then followed other chambers, which

extended somewhat backwards. Enough, had it been more durably built,

it might have answered very well as a pleasure-house for persons

of rank. But that which particularly interested me, and for which I

did not grudge many a _büsel_ (a little silver coin then current)

in order to procure a repeated entrance from the porter, was the

embroidered tapestry with which they had lined the whole interior.

Here, for the first time, I saw a specimen of those tapestries worked

after Raffaelle's cartoons, and this sight was for me of very decided

influence, as I became acquainted with the true and the perfect on

a large scale, though only in copies. I went and came, and came

and went, and could not satiate myself with looking; nay, a vain

endeavour troubled me, because I would willingly have comprehended what

interested me in so extraordinary a manner. I found these side-chambers

highly delightful and refreshing, but the chief saloon so much the

more shocking. This had been hung with many larger, more brilliant and

richer hangings, which were surrounded with crowded ornaments, worked

after pictures by the modern French.

Now I might perhaps have reconciled myself to this style also, as my

feelings, like my judgment, did not readily reject anything entirely;

but the subject was excessively revolting to me. These pictures

contained the history of Jason, Medea, and Creusa, and therefore an

example of the most unhappy marriage. To the left of the throne was

seen the bride struggling with the most horrible death, surrounded

by persons full of sympathizing woe; to the right was the father,

horrified at the murdered babes before his feet; whilst the Fury, in

her dragon-car, drove along into the air. And that the horrible and

atrocious should not lack something absurd, the white tail of that

magic bull flourished out on the right-hand from behind the red velvet

of the gold-embroidered back of the throne, while the fire-spitting

beast himself, and the Jason who was fighting with him, were completely

covered by the sumptuous drapery.

Here all the maxims which I had made my own in Oeser's school were

stirring within my bosom. It was without proper selection and

judgment, to begin with, that Christ and the apostles were brought

into the side-halls of a nuptial building, and doubtless the size of

the chambers had guided the royal tapestry-keeper. This, however, I

willingly forgave, because it had turned out so much to my advantage;

but a blunder like that in the grand saloon put me altogether out

of my self-possession, and with animation and vehemence I called

on my comrades to witness such a crime against taste and feeling.

"What!" cried I, without regarding the bystanders, "is it permitted

so thoughtlessly to place before the eyes of a young queen, at her

first setting foot in her dominions, the representation of the most

horrible marriage that perhaps was ever consummated! Is there then

among the French architects, decorators, upholsterers, not a single

man who understands that pictures represent something, that pictures

work upon the mind and feelings, that they make impressions, that they

excite forebodings! It is just the same as if they had sent the most

ghastly spectre to meet this beauteous and pleasure-loving lady at the

very frontiers!" I know not what I said besides; enough, my comrades

tried to quiet me and to remove me out of the house, that there might

be no offence. They then assured me that it was not everybody's concern

to look for significance in pictures; that to themselves, at least,

nothing of the sort would have occurred, while the whole population of

Strasburg and the vicinity which was to throng thither, would no more

take such crotchets into their heads than the queen herself and her

court.

I yet remember well the beauteous and lofty mien, as cheerful as it was

imposing, of this youthful lady. Perfectly visible to us all in her

glass carriage, she seemed to be jesting with her female attendants,

in familiar conversation, about the throng that poured forth to meet

her train. In the evening we roamed through the streets to look at the

various illuminated buildings, but especially the glowing spire of

the minster, with which, both near and in the distance, we could not

sufficiently feast our eyes.

The queen pursued her way; the country people dispersed, and the city

was soon quiet as ever. Before the queen's arrival, the very rational

regulation had been made, that no deformed persons, no cripples nor

disgusting invalids, should show themselves on her route. People joked

about this, and I made a little French poem in which I compared the

advent of Christ, who seemed to wander upon the world particularly on

account of the sick and the lame, with the arrival of the queen, who

scared these unfortunates away. My friends let it pass; a Frenchman, on

the contrary, who lived with us, criticised the language and metre very

unmercifully, although, as it seemed, with too much foundation, and I

do not remember that I ever made a French poem afterwards.

[Side-note: Dreadful Accident at Paris.]

Scarcely had the news of the queen's happy arrival rung from the

capital, than it was followed by the horrible intelligence that, owing

to an oversight of the police during the festal fireworks, an infinite

number of persons, with horses and carriages, had been destroyed in

a street obstructed by building materials, and that the city, in the

midst of the nuptial solemnities, had been plunged into mourning and

sorrow. They attempted to conceal the extent of the misfortune, both

from the young royal pair and from the world, by burying the dead in

secret, so that many families were convinced only by the ceaseless

absence of their members that they, too, had been swept off by this

awful event. That, on this occasion, those ghastly figures in the grand

saloon again came vividly before my mind, I need scarcely mention; for

every one knows how powerful certain moral impressions are, when they

embody themselves, as it were, in those of the senses.

This occurrence was, however, destined moreover to place my friends in

anxiety and trouble by means of a prank in which I indulged. Among us

young people who had been at Leipzig, there had been maintained ever

afterwards a certain itch for imposing on and in some way mystifying

one another. With this wanton love of mischief I wrote to a friend in

Frankfort (he was the one who had amplified my poem on the cake-baker

Hendel, applied it to _Medon_, and caused its general circulation),

a letter dated from Versailles, in which I informed him of my happy

arrival there, my participation in the solemnities, and other things

of the kind, but at the same time enjoined the strictest secrecy. I

must here remark that, from the time of that trick which had caused us

so much annoyance, our little Leipzig society had accustomed itself

to persecute him from time to time with mystifications, and this

especially as he was the drollest man in the world, and was never

more amiable than when he was discovering the cheat into which he had

deliberately been led. Shortly after I had written this letter, I went

on a little journey and remained absent about a fortnight. Meanwhile

the news of that disaster had reached Frankfort; my friend believed me

in Paris, and his affection led him to apprehend that I might have been

involved in the calamity. He inquired of my parents and other persons

to whom I was accustomed to write, whether any letters had arrived,

and as it was just at the time when my journey kept me from sending

any, they were altogether wanting. He went about in the greatest

uneasiness, and at last told the matter in confidence to our nearest

friends, who were now in equal anxiety. Fortunately this conjecture did

not reach my parents until a letter had arrived, announcing my return

to Strasburg. My young friends were satisfied to learn that I was

alive, but remained firmly convinced that I had been at Paris in the

interim. The affectionate intelligence of the solicitude they had felt

on my account affected me so much that I vowed to leave off such tricks

for ever, but, unfortunately, I have often since allowed myself to be

guilty of something similar. Real life frequently loses its brilliancy

to such a degree, that one is many a time forced to polish it up again

with the varnish of fiction.

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