Bulgaria cannot be called Turkey. Indeed it is much freer from Turkish

influence than Egypt is. There is a free intercourse also between

Turkish, Bulgarian, and Armenian women, which must influence the home

life and the views of the Mohammedan families. Most of them would be

ashamed to take more than one woman, and the Turkish women are

continually comparing their situation and life with that of their

Christian neighbors. They are sad not to be able to read and write, and

they try to give their daughters a better education. But as they see

that their (orthodox) Bulgarian neighbors care more for instruction than

for religion and real education, they, of course, cannot understand till

now, that religion is the root of culture.

Polygamy is by no means prevalent among the Mohammedans of Bulgaria,

indeed it is very rare that a man has more than one wife, but these few

exceptions are productive of great misery. Divorce for very trivial

reasons is not uncommon, but there has recently occurred under my eye a

case of happy reconciliation and restoration through the influence of

Christian friends.

The Mohammedan woman of Bulgaria shares to a degree the freedom of her

Bulgarian sisters, is a power in the home, and, especially if the mother

of grown sons, is much respected and considered. But ignorance is her

curse. Here and there one finds a grown woman able to read, but the mass

are content to let their girls go to school for a few years and then

gradually forget all they have learned. But still I have known some

keenly interested in the reading of Scripture. I recall one visit in a

roomful of women at the festival of Bairam, when a young girl attracted

by the Injil Sherif--the New Testament--in the hands of the Bible woman,

opened it and read aloud the whole of the eighteenth chapter of Luke to

that roomful of deeply interested listeners. As she finished, clasping

the book to her heart, she exclaimed: "Oh, give me this wonderful book,

I must read it all." When we left she followed me to the door, reminding

us earnestly of our promise to send her a book soon. We know that the

book was much read.

Another girl of seventeen, whom Fatima Hanum had taught not only to read

but to love the Book, found great comfort in the prayers and Christian

sympathy of this same dear friend during a long illness. On her

death-bed she said to her mother: "We have lived in darkness, but there

is light and I have seen it!"

We believe the light is beginning to glimmer in more than one Mohammedan

home in Bulgaria. In this city, as in many others, Mohammedan women are

accustomed to spend Friday, whenever the weather will permit, under the

trees in some pleasant spot, and Fatima Hanum with her Bible is a

familiar figure among them--indeed they often send word to her: "We are

going out for the day. Come with us and bring the Book."

In a recent tour I was a welcome guest in several Turkish homes, and

warm approval was expressed by the women of their Protestant

neighbors--only one failing was regretted--"they eat pork," but even

they acknowledged that it wasn't so bad as telling lies, and saying

unkind things about each other; and they begged me to come again and

read to them from our Great Teacher's Book.

XVII

DARKNESS AND DAYBREAK IN PERSIA

One can never forget the first sight of a Moslem woman--that veiled

figure, moving silently through the streets, so enshrouded that face and

form are completely concealed. Men and women pass each other with no

greeting or token of recognition, and if a wife accompanies her husband,

she never walks beside him, but at a respectful distance behind, and

neither gives a sign that they belong together.

A woman's first instinct is to efface herself. Even the poor, washing

clothes in the street at the water-course, pull their tattered rags over

their faces. The Persian expression for women, "those who sit behind the

curtain," shows that their place is silence and seclusion. When the

closed carriage of a princess passes, her servants, galloping before,

order all men to turn their faces to the wall, though all they could

possibly see would be carefully veiled figures. The beggar sitting on

the ground at the street corner is equally invisible under her cotton

_chader_, as with lamentable voice she calls for mercy on the baby in

her arms.

During the month of mourning, we often pass a brilliantly lighted

mosque, where men sit sipping tea or smoking, listening to the tale of

the death of their martyrs, but crouching on the stony street outside in

the darkness, a crowd of women are straining their ears to catch what

they can. Such are the passing glimpses one gets of the Persian woman in

public.

Her real life is lived in the "harem." We realize its meaning, "the

forbidden," when after passing through the imposing street gate, and the

outer court where are the men's apartments, we are conducted to a

curtained door, guarded by a sentinel, who summons an old eunuch to lead

us through a dark, narrow passage into the inner court, or _andaroon_.

Here no man may enter but the very nearest relatives of the inmates, and

they under severe restrictions. As women, we have free access, and this

privilege is shared by the Christian physician, who is welcomed and

trusted. One such gives us this picture.

The _andaroon_ is usually very far from being an abode of luxury, even

in wealthy families, unless the number of wives is limited to one or

two. The favorite wife has many advantages over her rivals, but she is

usually encouraged to set an example of severe simplicity, in respect to

her house and its furnishings, to the other wives; each of whom would

make life a burden to her lord, were marked discrimination shown in such

things. He, therefore, contents himself with reserving the best of

everything for the _beroon_, or outer apartments, where he receives his

own guests. Here are fountains, spacious courts, shady walks, and

profusion of flowers without, while within are large, high-ceiled and

stuccoed rooms, elaborate windows, delicately wrought frescoes, the

finest rugs and divans, showy chandeliers and candelabra, stately pier

glasses brought on camels' backs from distant Trebizond or Bushire,

inlaid tables from Shiraz, and portières from Reshd.

The _andaroon_ presents a marked contrast. The rooms are usually small

and low without ventilation, the courts confined, sunless, and bare; the

garden ill-kept, and the general air of a backyard pervading the entire

establishment. This order is reversed by many ecclesiastics, who in

deference to the popular idea, that to be very holy, one must be very

dirty, reserve all their luxuries for the _andaroon_, and make a show of

beggarly plainness in the part of the house to which their pupils and

the public have access.

The Persian wife seldom ventures into the _beroon_, and when she does,

it is as an outsider only, who is tolerated as long as no other visitor

is present. All its belongings are in charge of men-servants, and the

dainty touches of the feminine hand are nowhere seen in their

arrangement, and her presence is lacking there, to greet its guests, or

grace its entertainments.

When the Khanum suffers from any of the ailments, for which in America

or Europe outdoor exercise, travel, a visit to the seaside, to the

mountains, or to the baths is required, the physician feels his

helplessness. He sees that the patient cannot recover her nervous tone

in her present environment. But there is no seaside except at impossible

distances and in impossible climates. A visit to the mountains would

mean being shut up in a little dirty village, whose houses are mud

hovels, the chief industry of whose women is the milking of goats and

sheep, and working up beds of manure with bare feet, and moulding it by

hand into cakes for fuel. Or, if the husband have both the means and the

inclination, for her sake to make an encampment upon the mountains large

enough to afford security from robbers and wandering tribes, she would

be confined largely to the precincts inclosed by the canvas wall

surrounding the harem. She rides only in a _kajava_, or basket, or in a

closed _takhterawan_, or horse litter, or, as she sits perched high up,

astride a man's saddle, looking in her balloon garments, and doubtless

feeling, more insecure than Humpty Dumpty on the wall. In her outdoor

costume, the Khanum never walks. At best she can only waddle, therefore

she is almost as effectually shut out from this important form of

exercise as the women of China. In both countries the peasant class are

blessed with more freedom than those of higher rank, and the village

women, dispensing with the baggy trousers and in some districts also

with the _chader_, or mantle, swing by on the road with an elastic

stride that would do credit to a veteran of many campaigns.

Travelling in Persia is, for women particularly, a matter of so great

discomfort, that even the shortest journey could seldom be recommended

as a health measure. There are some famous mineral springs in Northern

Persia, but they are usually in regions difficult of access, and often

dangerous on account of nomads and robbers, and they generally have only

such facilities for bathing as nature has afforded. If they really do

heal diseases their virtues must be marvellous, for the sick who visit

them usually stay but a day or two, though they make a business of

bathing while they have the opportunity. To prescribe travel, therefore,

would be about the equivalent of prescribing a journey to the moon, and

to recommend outdoor exercise for an inmate of the _andaroon_ would be

like prescribing a daily exercise in flying, the one being about as

practicable as the other. Should the physician find it necessary on the

other hand to isolate his patient for the treatment of hysteria, which

is exceedingly common, or for mental troubles, which are also very

common, he is equally at sea. No nurse, not even a "Sairey Gamp" could

be found. When it is known that one has a severe illness or visitation

from God, they come, as in the days of Job, "every one from his own

place--to mourn with him."

In cases where absolute isolation has been ordered, as an essential

condition of the patient's recovery, the physician may expect on his

next visit to find the room filled with chattering women, who have

gathered to speculate on the possibilities of a recovery or each to

recommend the decoction which cured some one else, whose case was "just

like this." There is but little watching done at night in the most

severe cases, and a physician is seldom called up at night to see a

patient.

On my first introduction to the _andaroon_, I had little acquaintance

with either Persian customs or costumes. I had been asked to see the

wife of a high dignitary, and on my arrival was at once ushered into her

presence. I found my fair patient awaiting me, standing beside a

fountain, in the midst of a garden quite Oriental in its features. She

was closely veiled, but her feet and legs were bare, and her skirts were

so economically abbreviated as at first to raise the question in my

mind, whether I had not by mistake of the servant been announced before

the lady had completed her toilet. She, however, held out her hand,

which apparently she did not intend me to shake, and I presently made

out that I was expected to feel her pulse as the preliminary to my

inquiries concerning her symptoms; or rather in lieu of them, the

competent Persian physician needing no other clue to the diagnosis. Then

the pulse of the other wrist had to be examined, and I inspected the

tongue, of which I obtained a glimpse between the skilfully disposed

folds of the veil. This woman had been suffering from a malarial

disease, which had manifested some grave symptoms, and I tried to

impress upon the family the importance of her taking prompt measures to

avert another paroxysm. Feeling somewhat anxious as to the result, I

sent the next morning to inquire about her condition and the effect of

the remedy prescribed, but learned to my disgust that the medicine had

not yet been given, the Mullah who must make "istekhara" (cast the lot)

to ascertain whether the remedy was a suitable one for the case, not

having yet arrived.

Seclusion, lack of exercise, the monotony that leaves the mind to prey

upon itself, ignorance, early marriage, unhappiness, abuse, and

contagious diseases bring upon the Persian woman a great amount of

physical suffering directly traceable to the system of Mohammedanism.

One special demand of her religion, the month of fasting, is a case in

point. At the age of seven, the girls must assume this burden, not taken

up by boys till they are thirteen. For a mere child to be deprived of

food and drink, sometimes for seventeen hours at a stretch, day after

day, and then allowed to gorge herself at night, cannot but be a

physical injury.

In illness, no pen can depict the contrast between a refined Christian

sickroom and the crowded noisy apartment, poisoned with tobacco smoke,

where lies the poor Persian woman in the dirty garments of every-day

wear, covered by bedding in worse condition.

Mentally, the Persian women are as bright as those of any race. The same

physician says, "The Persian woman is often neither a doll nor a drudge.

I have known some who were recipients of apparently true love, respect,

and solicitude on the part of their husbands, as their sisters in

Christian lands; some who were very entertaining in conversation, even

in their husbands' presence; some who were their husbands' trusted

counsellors; some who were noted for learning; some who were

successfully managing large estates; some who have stood by me in my

professional work, in emergencies demanding great strength of character

and freedom from race and sectarian prejudice."

But these are the exceptions; scarcely one in a thousand has any

education, even in its most restricted sense of being able to read and

write her own language intelligently. It is marvellous to see how all

the advantages are lavished on the boy, who will have Arabic, Persian,

and French tutors, while his sister is taught nothing. In consequence,

the ignorance and stupidity of woman have become proverbial. It is a

common saying, "Her hair is long, but her wit is short."

In a Persian newspaper, there lately appeared some articles in which,

after apologizing for mentioning the subject of women, the writer spoke

strongly of their present illiterate state. He taxed the mothers with

the great mortality among children, and made the amazing statement, that

in Australia every woman who loses a child is punished by law with the

loss of a finger! He did not venture to prescribe this drastic remedy

for Persia, but says the husbands and fathers who allow their women to

remain in ignorance should be held up to public scorn and contempt, and

that nothing but education and religion will make a change.

Wonderful to relate, this article elicited the following reply from a

lady, which we print as it was written:

LETTER FROM A MOSLEM WOMAN

_To the honored and exalted editor of the "Guide":_--

"I myself have no education, but my two children, a boy and a

girl, have a little. Every day they use your paper for their

reading lesson, and I listen with the greatest attention.

Truly, as far as a patriot's duty goes, you are discharging it.

Your paper is having a remarkable effect on the minds of both

men and women. I rejoice, and am delighted with your love for

race and country, and praise especially the articles

recommending the education of women.

"Some days ago, the children were reading, and I was listening

because I take such an interest in the writings in the _Guide_

that I am constrained to defer the most necessary labors, till

the reading is finished. You have spoken well about the poor

unfortunate women; but first the men must be educated; because

the girl receives instruction from her father and the wife

from her husband. You reproach these ill-starred women, because

they are addicted to superstitious practices. Your humble

servant makes a petition that they are not so much to blame.

"In this very city I know men of the first rank, who have even

travelled in Europe (I will not mention their names) who are

superstitious to an incredible degree. Before putting on a new

suit of clothes, they consult the astrologer and look in the

calendar for an auspicious hour, and if shoes or other articles

come from the bazaar at an unlucky moment, they return them

till the stars shall be more propitious; when they contemplate

a visit to royalty, or to Government officials, they take the

chaplet of beads and cast lots to ascertain a fortunate time.

Is it then strange that women believe in written prayers,

fortune telling, and the _istekhara_? You write that in a

foreign country you have seen men who had fled there to escape

their wives. You are telling the truth, because, indeed, the

women are a thousand times more incapable than the men. And why

should they not be, who always sit behind a curtain wrapped in

a veil? The husband can flee from his wife to a foreign land,

but what of her who is left behind: her arms are, as it were,

broken, her condition remediless, hopeless? For her, there is

but one place whither she may flee--the grave! Look, and you

will see in every cemetery one-fourth of all are men's graves;

the rest are of women who have escaped their husbands by death.

"Again you speak of their ignorance of domestic economy, the

rearing of children, the avoidance of contagious diseases, etc.

When a poor woman is taken to her husband's home, it is true

she knows nothing of these things, and does not make home

comfortable, but by the time she is the mother of two or three

children, she begins to learn; she economizes in food and

clothing; she looks after her children; she adds to her

husband's prosperity. She takes a pride in the home, in which

she hopes to enjoy many happy days; but poor creature! she sees

one day a woman entering her door, who says, 'Your husband has

married me,' She recalls all her struggles for family and home,

and her heart is filled with bitterness. Quarrels ensue, and

her husband, taking a stick, beats her till she is like

well-kneaded dough. Afterwards they both go before the judge,

who without making any investigation of the case, gives

sentence in favor of the man. 'You have not in any wise

transgressed the law; the female tribe are all radically bad;

if this one says anything more, punish her.' Unfortunate

creature! If she is modest and self-respecting, this trouble

falling upon her occasions various illnesses, and she knows not

what becomes of house and children. The neighbor women, seeing

all this, are completely discouraged from improving their

homes, or rearing their children properly, as they say, 'The

more our husbands' circumstances improve, the less they will

care for us.' Why then reproach the women? It is proper to

advise the men, who have learned two things thoroughly from the

law of the Prophet: one I have mentioned, and the other is

this. In the evening when the Aga comes, he first washes

himself to be ceremonially clean and says his prayers to

fulfill the law of the prophet. Then he goes to his private

room, or to the men's apartments. Half an hour does not pass,

till he sends to demand the _ajil_ (food used with intoxicating

drinks, meat, fruits, etc.). The wife makes all ready, and

sends to him. Then the unhappy soul hears from that quarter the

sound of piano, organ, or tambourine, and some women just from

their feelings at such times, become a prey to divers maladies

and untold misery. At one or two o'clock in the morning, the

Aga brings his honorable presence into the _andaroon_. The wife

asks, 'What is this business in which you have been engaged?

How long must I put up with these evil doings?' Immediately a

quarrel ensues; the husband, partially or quite intoxicated,

and not in his right mind, answers, 'What business of yours is

it what I do? If I wish to bring the musicians and dancing

women, I shall do as I like.' Many women, on account of these

evil practices of their husbands, give themselves up also to

wicked ways, and others take to their beds with grief. Should

such a one take her case to a judge, he is worse than her

husband, and should she complain to the religious heads, many

of them in secret indulge in the same vices.

"Why then judge so severely those who are all suffering under

these troubles? Again you say that women should be educated,

but fail to indicate in which quarter of our city is situated

the school which they are to attend. We, in our ignorance of

its location, beg you to point out where we may find it. In my

own neighborhood there are twenty capable girls who are ready;

some wishing to study dressmaking, some sick-nursing,

midwifery, etc. Unfortunately, our nobles and ecclesiastics are

so busy, advancing the price of wheat, speculating on the next

harvest, snatching their neighbors' caps from their heads, that

they have not yet found time to establish a school or

university. I hope, through a blessing on the labors of your

pen, this will all be remedied, and this stupid people awaken

from its sleep. This brief petition I have made, and my

daughter has written it out. As I have no learning, I beg you

to excuse its mistakes and defects." ...

This letter is remarkable as showing that an awakening is beginning in

this country and that some women are feeling its influence; that among

them there are stirrings of a new ambition, and a great dissatisfaction

with their present condition. Moslem ladies, invited to witness the

closing exhibition of a school for missionary children, exclaimed, "When

will our daughters have such opportunities?" A young girl was filled

with the extraordinary ambition to become a doctor, like the lady

physician whom she admired; she came for lessons in English, physiology,

chemistry, and materia medica, showing talent and remarkable

studiousness; but during a disturbance against foreign schools, her

father forbade her coming, so the cloud again shrouded this particular

bright star.

What is the legal and social position of woman? A girl comes into the

world unwelcome; while the birth of a boy is announced and celebrated

with great rejoicings, that of his sister is regarded as a misfortune.

Said a mother, "Why should I not weep over my baby girl, who must endure

the same sorrows I have known? She is of little value; a father of

passionate temper, annoyed by the crying of the sickly infant daughter,

flung her out of the window, effectually and forever stilling the

pitiful wail. He was no more punished than if it had been the kitten who

had suffered from his rage." If she grows up, the grace, beauty, and

sweet audacity of childhood often gain for a little girl a place in her

father's affections; but not to be long enjoyed; an early betrothal and

marriage are the universal custom.

Engagements take place as early as three years old, and the bride is

sometimes then taken to grow up with her future husband. Should one

inquire as to the condition of unmarried women in this country, we are

reminded of the famous chapter on "Snakes in Ireland." There are no

snakes in Ireland. I am credibly informed, that in many places it is

impossible to find an unmarried girl of thirteen, and in the course of

extensive travels, covering a period of more than twenty years, I have

myself met but four spinsters or confirmed old maids. It is needless to

add that these were persons who possessed great native strength of

character and firmness of purpose, and all seemed highly respected in

their own family and social circle. One, the daughter of a Mujtahid, or

highest religious teacher, was thoroughly versed in all the special

studies of her father, who had educated her. She understood Persian,

Arabic, and Turkish, being able to read and write them well, and was

often consulted on difficult points in the Koran, by the Mullahs, who

admitted that she understood it better than they. Another, living in a

large family of several brothers, enjoyed the esteem and affection of

all, and was most sincerely mourned when she died.

These are, however, great exceptions, and considered as directly opposed

to the command of the Prophet. It is regarded as a cardinal sin not to

marry, and our single ladies are often assured the only prospect before

them is of the eternal pains of hellfire, as the penalty for the

obstinate disobedience in this particular. Even the lepers, segregated

in their wretched villages, feel the pressure of opinion and are obliged

to marry in accordance with religion.

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