companies, each taking a different route, to try if we could not, by
this means, find some men. After three or four hours we rejoined each
other near the river, without discovering anything beyond some huts and
footsteps. Upon which we betook ourselves to rest. Meanwhile they
brought me the nut of a certain fruit tree, resembling in form the
_drioens_,[31] having the taste of our large Dutch beans; and those
which were younger were like a walnut. I ate five or six of them, and
drank of the water from the small pools; but, after an interval of about
three hours, I and five others who had eaten of these fruits began to
vomit so violently that we were as dead men; so that it was with the
greatest difficulty that I and the crew regained the shore, and thence,
in company with the skipper, were put on board the galliot, leaving the
rest on shore.
On the 7th the whole of the crew returned on board with the boats,
bringing with them two young black swans. The mouth of the said river
lies in 31 degrees 46 minutes; and at eleven, nine, and seven gunshots
from the mainland, are five and a half fathoms of water on good bottom.
Between the river and Rottenest Island, which is at nearly five leagues
distance, Captain De Vlaming had the misfortune to break his cable.
On the 9th, De Vlaming made sail for the mainland.
On the 10th we followed him with the galliot, and cast anchor off the
mainland, in thirteen fathoms. A council was immediately held, and
orders forthwith given to proceed to explore the river with two of the
galliot’s boats. The galliot remained in the neighbourhood before the
river, while we went up it with three boats well supplied with guns and
ammunition. We found, at the mouth, from five to six feet of water. We
remained a little time on the shore, and put ourselves on the alert, not
to be surprised by the natives. After sunset we ascended the river, and
overcame the current with our oars; seeing several fires, but no men.
About midnight we threw out our kedge, as we saw no opening although it
was moonlight.
On the 11th, at break of day, we again ascended the river, and saw many
swans (our boat knocked over nine or ten), some rotganzen, geese, some
divers, etc.; also a quantity of fish, which were frisking on the water.
We also heard the song of the nightingale. Here we thought we saw a
crowd of men; but after rowing on shore we found none, but lighted on a
little pool of fresh water, and within it, at the bottom, a certain herb
smelling like thyme; which was, perhaps, put into it by the inhabitants,
to give the water a more agreeable taste, and make it more wholesome.
All around we saw many footsteps of men, and the impression of a hand on
the sand; the marks of the thumb and fingers shewing plainly that it was
quite recently done. Proceeding further, we found a fire which had been
just lighted, and three small huts, one of which was made with a
quantity of bark of a tree known in India under the name of _liplap_,
which, I think, was intended for a battery. For want of water, we could
not go any further south, and being nearly high and dry with the boats
in the sand, we resolved to return, having already ascended the river
six or seven leagues (some thought it was ten) without having discovered
anything of importance. Towards the evening we again went on shore to
see if, towards midnight, we could take the inhabitants by surprise; but
not having been able to attain our object, and the moon meanwhile
rising, we allowed ourselves to glide gently along the river.
On the 12th, two hours before sunrise, seeing several fires, I again
went on shore with our chief pilot, some sailors, and the two blacks
above mentioned. We observed eight, and around each of them a heap of
branches of trees, but no men. As it was, therefore, evident that there
was no good to be done here, we returned to our vessel, which we reached
about noon. As regards the country, it is sandy, and in the place where
we were had been planted with a good many shrubs, among which were some
quite three and four fathoms (vademen) thick, but bearing no fruit,—in
short, full of prickles and thorns. Several of these yielded a gum
nearly like wax, of a brownish red colour. The men, the birds, the
swans, the rotganzen, koopganzen, the geese, the cockatoos, the
parroquets, etc., all fled at the sight of us. The best of it is that no
vermin is found there; but in the day time one is terribly tormented
with the flies.
On the 13th, in the morning before daybreak, we held a council; and in
order to be able to take soundings nearer the coast, the galliot and two
boats made sail at about three o’clock in the morning watch. We took our
course, therefore, along the coast most frequently N.N.W., sometimes a
little north and west. We were in 31 degrees 43 minutes latitude, and
sounded generally at a cannon-shot or a cannon-shot and a half from the
coast. Here and there we came to several large rocks, and had fifteen,
twelve, nine, and eight fathoms water. Towards noon we passed an opening
which might well have been a river; and towards sunset we again made
sail for the coast.
On the morning of the 14th we again made sail for the coast, and found
the same depth as before, but principally fifteen fathoms of brackish
water; being then in 30 degrees and 40 minutes latitude.
On the 15th, after having held a council, we made sail along the coast,
and found the latitude 30 degrees 17 minutes. In different places
towards the south we saw a great smoke and vapour arising, and we went
with our two boats on shore, and found, nearly a league from the shore,
a rock; and a gunshot from thence two fathoms water, and from that to
the coast four, five, six, three, two and a half, three, five, eight,
five, three, and two fathoms; mostly foul bottom, not adapted for
anchoring; and on the south-west side there are generally breakers.
These two corners extend south and north from the gulf; the soil dry and
sandy, and but little adapted for the habitation of animals, still less
of men. We had nearly proceeded a league and a half inland; but we saw
no men nor fresh water, but several footsteps of men, and steps like
those of the dog and of the cassowary. Nor did we see any trees, but
only briars and thorns. One of our people said that he had seen a red
serpent. Some others said that as soon as we reached the shore, they saw
a yellow dog leaping from the wild herbage, and throwing itself into the
sea, as if to amuse himself with swimming. What truth there was in these
statements, I do not know. At all events I did not see either of these
things myself. At two o’clock we returned with our chief pilot on board.
On the 16th my companion went with the boats ashore, and marched onwards
with his crew in order for one hour and a half; but returned on board in
the evening without having made any discovery.
On the 17th the boats returned on shore, and directed their course then
more towards the south than they had hitherto done, and brought on board
from an island a quantity of sea-mews. The latitude 30 degrees 42
minutes. Nothing new.
The 20th, returning to the shore, I found nothing but a great plain very
barren; many rocks on the coast; and the depth sixteen, fourteen,
eleven, eight, six, five, three, and two fathoms; the anchorage
difficult.
On the 21st our boat once more went on shore, but without learning
anything new. The latitude was 29 degrees 47 minutes. Along the coast,
the wind south; the course N. and N.N.W. Towards evening we saw breakers
ahead, and sounded twenty-six, twenty, sixteen, and suddenly three
fathoms. We held close on the wind, and immediately got greater depth.
It was a reef, which stretched four or five leagues from the coast.
On the 22nd I started for the shore with our under-pilot. Being nearly
three leagues from the coast, and sailing along it for some leagues, we
found, close under the shore, ten and nine fathoms; a steep coast with
constant breakers. On landing we found, at two hundred paces from the
shore, a brackish stream, along which we walked landwards for a quarter
of an hour. The middle was rather deep, and the fish pretty plentiful.
We should have followed it further, but, the time being too short, we
returned, and on the road saw many footprints like those of a dog; but
saw no men, nor animals, nor trees, the country here being twice as
barren as what we had before seen. Towards evening we returned together
on board.
On the 21st (_sic_) our boat again made sail for the land, and keeping
along the shore, we found that here, in between 28 and 29 degrees,
tolerably good anchorage might be found. The land is tolerably high. Our
chief pilot returning on board after dinner, informed us that he had
seen on the shore three or four men, and several more on the little
downs beyond, all quite naked, black, and of our own height; but that he
had not been able to get near them on account of the current; that
afterwards, rowing a little further, they had landed and found a lake,
which extended far into the country like a river. It was of brackish
taste, and though white had a reddish tinge caused by the bottom, which
was of red sand and mud. At noon we were in latitude 28 degrees 16
minutes; and at five o’clock, after dinner, we anchored in a gulf, in
eighteen fathoms water, good holding ground, sand and mud, at about a
cannon’s-shot from the shore.
On the 25th, early in the morning, I landed with nine of our crew, our
under pilot, together with the commandant of De Vlaming’s soldiers, his
Dardewaak, and thirty-one soldiers. On reaching the shore, we found a
good many oysters; we put ourselves in marching order, but from the
fatigue occasioned by the excessive heat, and the obstructions on the
road from brushwood, we were obliged occasionally to rest ourselves,
till we reached the mountains, where we took our rest. But if the road
had been difficult, a greater trouble was yet in store for us; for,
finding no fresh water, we thought we should have fainted with thirst.
From this point we could see our vessels, and wished a thousand times
over that we were on board again. However, the commandant of the
soldiers, with two men, went down, and soon came up to us again, with a
look of satisfaction, bringing news that he had discovered some fresh
water, and also a little hut, and about an hour’s distance from our
camp, some footsteps, of the length of eighteen inches; upon which we
resolved, although it was beginning to be dark, to bend our steps in
that direction, an effort which, from the quantity of brushwood and the
approach of night, could not be made without much difficulty. On
arriving at the drinking place, we found a great pool, but the water was
slightly brackish. We encamped there, and having arranged that there
should be a soldier constantly on the watch as sentry, we passed the
night there in the best manner we could.
On the 26th, in the morning before sunrise, we continued our journey,
and shortly reached the aforesaid little hut, which had a good many
egg-shells around it, but the eighteen inch footsteps changed into
ordinary ones. This night also we remained on shore, and encamped again
near the pool. Although we were divided, we met with no men nor cattle,
but nothing but wild brushwood.
On the 27th, at the point of day, we betook ourselves to the shore, and
thence to our vessels, which we reached near noon: the crew complained
greatly of sore eyes.
On the 28th, having held a council before sunrise, we braced our sails,
and put to sea an hour and a half after dinner, the wind being S.S.W.
quarter W. in latitude, in 27 degrees 50 minutes. Shortly after, we
again steered for the coast N.E., and by N. to N.W. and N.N.W., hugging
the shore.
The 29th we still kept along the shore, the land high and rocky.
Latitude 27 degrees 40 minutes.
The 30th the land rather high, until five o’clock in the afternoon
watch, when we cast anchor in an extensive gulf, which probably must
have been that named “Dirk Hartog’s Reede.”
On the 31st, two boats entered the gulf to explore it, and two others to
go fishing, which brought back in the evening a good quantity. The same
evening the chief pilot reported that they had been in the gulf, but had
seen nothing further to shew whether the part to the north of the gulf
were an island or not. They saw there a number of turtles.
On the 1st of February, early in the morning, our little boat went to
the coast to fish: our chief pilot, with De Vlaming’s boat, again went
into the gulf, and our skipper went on shore to fix up a commemorative
tablet.
On the 2nd, we took three great sharks, one of which had nearly thirteen
little ones, of the size of a large pike. The two captains (for De
Vlaming had also gone on shore) returned on board late in the evening,
having been a good six or seven leagues up the country. Our captain
brought with him a large bird’s head, and related that he had seen two
nests, made of boughs, which were full three fathoms in circumference.
On the 3rd, Vlaming’s chief pilot returned on board; he reported that he
had explored eighteen leagues, and that it was an island. He brought
with him a tin plate, which in the lapse of time had fallen from a post
to which it had been attached, and on which was cut the name of the
captain, Dirk Hartog, as well as the names of the first and second
merchants, and of the chief pilot of the vessel _De Eendragt_, which
arrived here in the year 1616, on the 25th October, and left for Bantam
on the 27th of the same month.
On the 4th of February, before daylight, we set sail, steering our
course along the island, and at half-past two in the afternoon, we cast
anchor in sixteen fathoms on the N.E. of Dirk Hartog’s Reede, the gulf
above mentioned in the latitude of 25 degrees 40 minutes. The two boats
took soundings all along the coast, N.E. and by N., and N.W., but could
not see the country for the fog.
On the 5th, we took five turtles on the island, and having then held a
council, and prepared and provisioned our vessel and that of De Vlaming,
we, that is, our captain, under-pilot, and myself, and De Vlaming with
his Dardewaak and under-master and oarsmen, with close-reefed sails, the
wind being at south and rather high, set sail, steering along the
island, where we landed at nightfall at nearly four or five leagues
distance from our vessels.
The 6th, still a good deal of wind. This day we made but little progress
and returned on shore at night. We saw a great many turtles, and in the
corner of a rock a very large nest, made like a stork’s nest.
On the 7th, a good wind. In the evening we took a fish of immense size,
of which twenty-four of us partook. It had exactly the natural taste of
the ray. There remained enough for thirty more persons to feed on. We
slept on shore.
The 8th, in the morning, fair weather. We set sail for what the chief
pilot had pointed out to us as a river, and up which we proceeded full
three leagues, but found it to be different from what it appeared. There
were, in fact, two rivers, which, for some time invisible, afterwards
reappeared and formed an island eastwards, a full half league from the
coast, in three, two, and one feet of water, surrounded on all sides by
rocks, and sand, and stones. We presently returned, being prevented by
the drought from approaching within half a league of the shore. We had a
heavy storm, and received the first rain of the South Land. In the
evening we returned on shore and encamped in a very unpropitious spot,
at once barren and wild.
On the 9th we steered for the mainland, which we reached near noon. This
coast extends with a winding N.E. to N. and S.W. to S. The coast is
steep, the sand of a reddish colour, rocky, dry and forbidding. In order
to get some good water, we made the crew dig several holes, but the
water was so salt that it could not be drunk without injury to health.
We saw several ducks. Sailing along the coast, we reached a basin of
water, like a river, which gave us great hope of getting some fresh
water. Therefore with the flow we weathered the cape, and after sailing
half-an-hour reached a basin of round form, but in which we only found
salt water. All round it we dug several holes, but, in spite of all our
labour, we could find no fresh water. This night we spent in the boat
and De Vlaming on shore. Thunder, lightning, and rain.
On the 10th of February, after midnight, with the high tide, we set sail
from the above-mentioned basin of water, and then, as before, kept along
the coast at the distance of three or four leagues. Again we went
ashore, ascended a mountain, saw a valley, and beyond it a water course.
Two men immediately ran in haste to dig, but nowhere found fresh water,
although they saw all about several footprints of men. Setting sail from
hence we returned on board three hours after sunset, and learned that on
Friday, the 8th of the month, our vessels had been compelled by the
driving of the sea to put out a league and a half from the shore, and
had cast anchor in seventeen fathoms; the shallop of the galliot had
upset and the carpenter was drowned, and De Vlaming’s boat damaged. From
De Vlaming’s vessel two dead men had been cast into the sea on the same
day.
On the 11th, De Vlaming came on board in the morning. Having passed all
the night in a stormy sea, in latitude 25 degrees 22 minutes, and being
unable to cast anchor, we were compelled to make sail.
On the 12th we held a council; and before noon made sail, holding our
course toward the north north-east and north along the coast, and in the
evening giving it a wide berth.
On the morning of the 13th we made sail for the coast, which bore off us
S. and N., and before noon saw a cape and three islands, two of which
were but small. Turning the cape, we held close on the wind in a great
winding of the coast, on the southward tack, and on various tacks 17,
15, 12, and 9 to 4 fathoms water. At five o’clock in the afternoon we
made our course W. to S. with a south wind, latitude 24 degrees, 40
minutes. In the evening we cast anchor.
During the 14th we tacked continually all day, and in the evening cast
anchor.
On the morning of the 15th, in weighing anchor our cable would not hold,
but we saved our anchor. We set sail and cast anchor in the evening.
On the 16th we were tacking till the afternoon, steering towards the
north with a south wind, the shore bearing from us to the west, but we
kept afloat that night.
On the 17th we again neared the coast, which we held close, sailing
smartly with a south wind. The coast stretched south and north. We were
in 24 degrees latitude, and the compass was laid at 5 degrees.
On the 18th, in the morning, we braced our sails and steered along the
coast N.N.W. and N.W. Towards noon we saw breakers ashore. We were in
latitude 22 degrees, 26 minutes, and we were tacking the whole day.
On the 19th, in the morning, we again kept along the coast, the land
more or less steep, but very low towards the south. Our course N.E. We
saw a considerably larger cape, from which a bank stretched out into the
sea. We kept close on to the wind, which was at S.W., and found
ourselves in latitude 21 degrees, 34 minutes. When we had passed the
cape we came to the end of the coast, and reached the river known as
William’s River, and sailing up it, found ground but little suited for
anchoring. We therefore put out again for the sea.
On the 20th we tacked towards De Vlaming, and in the evening cast anchor
near him. Latitude 21 degrees, 28 minutes. We held a council.
On the 21st, in the morning, we put to sea towards the N.W. Latitude 21
degrees. Held once more a council. Received from De Vlaming three half
barrels of water. Half-an-hour after sun-rise, our captain came from on
board De Vlaming’s vessel, from which five cannon shot were fired and
three from our vessel, as a signal of farewell to the miserable South
Land; and we steered our course N.N.W., in 135 degrees of longitude from
the South Land.
* * * * *
From the date of the 22nd February to the 10th March inclusive, the
journal only gives the points of the wind, the time and course of the
ship towards Java.
ACCOUNT OF THE OBSERVATIONS OF CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER ON THE COAST OF
NEW HOLLAND, IN 1699,
BEING AN EXTRACT FROM “A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND, ETC., IN THE YEAR 1699.”
VOL. III, 3RD ED., 1729, pp. 75–107.
Having fair weather, and the winds hanging southerly, I jog’d on to the
eastward to make the Cape. On the third of June we saw a sail to leeward
of us, shewing English colours. I bare away to speak with her, and found
her to be the _Antelope_, of London, commanded by Captain Hammond, and
bound for the Bay of Bengal, in the service of the New East India
Company. There were many passengers aboard, going to settle there under
Sir Edward Littleton, who was going chief thither: I went aboard, and
was known by Sir Edward and Mr. Hedges, and kindly received and treated
by them and the commander, who had been afraid of us before, though I
had sent one of my officers aboard. They had been in at the Cape, and
came from thence the day before, having stock’d themselves with
refreshments. They told me that they were by reckoning sixty miles to
the west of the Cape. While I was aboard them, a fine small westerly
wind sprang up; therefore I shortned my stay with them, because I did
not design to go into the Cape. When I took leave I was presented with
half a mutton, twelve cabbages, twelve pumpkins, six pound of butter,
six couple of stock-fish, and a quantity of parsnips; sending them some
oatmeal, which they wanted.
From my first setting out from England I did not design to touch at the
Cape, and that was one reason why I touch’d at Brazil, that there I
might refresh my men, and prepare them for a long run to New Holland. We
had not yet seen the land; but about two in the afternoon, we saw the
Capeland bearing east, at above sixteen leagues distance: and Captain
Hammond being also bound to double the Cape, we jog’d on together this
afternoon and the next day, and had several fair sights of it; which may
be seen [Table iii, No. 6, 7, 8.]
To proceed: having still a westerly wind, I jog’d on in company with the
_Antelope_, till Sunday, June the 4th, at four in the afternoon, when we
parted, they steering away for the East Indies, and I keeping an E.S.E.
course, the better to make my way for New Holland. For tho’ New Holland
lies north-easterly from the Cape, yet all ships bound towards that
coast, or the streights of Sundy, ought to keep for a while in the same
parallel, or in a latitude between 35 and 40, at least a little to the
south of the east, that they may continue in a variable winds way; and
not venture too soon to stand so far to the north, as to be within the
verge of the trade wind, which will put them by their easterly course.
The wind increased upon us; but we had yet sight of the _Antelope_, and
of the land too, till Tuesday, the sixth of June. And then we saw also
by us an innumerable company of fowls of divers sorts; so that we look’d
about to see if there were not another dead whale, but saw none.