[Illustration: Fig. 160.]
It has been remarked that after learning how to make “a wipe joint,”
everything is easy relating to the plumber’s trade; hence, the
importance of the following directions.
To learn the art, previous practice with short pieces of pipe is
recommended. This trial piece can be clamped as shown in Fig. 160 and
used over and over until practice has been had.
There are many names for the process of lead joint-making, such as the
flow-joint, the ribbon joint, the blown joint, the astragal joint,
etc., to express the different positions and uses for which they are
needed, but in the main they are made as follows:
1. The lead pipe to be joined is sawn square off with the proper
toothed saw—attention being paid to making the end absolutely true,
across the pipe.
2. One end of the pipe to be joined is first opened by driving in a
wooden wedge, shaped like a plumb-bob, called the “turn pin.” Care
should be exercised at this time not to split the end, 1/4 inch opening
is usually enough, which leaves the pipe as shown at D, Fig. 161. Now,
clean the internal part of the joint all around the part required for
soldering—this cleaning can be done with the plumber’s shave hook or
with a pocket knife. To complete this preparation “touch” the part with
grease from a tallow candle.
3. Next is the preparation of the male part of the joint. This must be
rasp-filed down to fit the enlarged opening. It is important to have a
good fit throughout; hence, inside the enlarged opening must be also
rasp-filed and the two surfaces to come nicely together before the
solder is applied.
4. At this stage a paste called “plumber’s soil” must be applied
outside 3 inches from the end of each piece of pipe; this is shown
by the line E F in Fig. 161, also at A B, Fig. 160; the line of the
soiling should be very even and true in order to assure a workmanlike
job and the soiling put on as before stated, _3 to 5 inches beyond the
solder line on each side_.
As the melting point of lead is 612 degrees or thereabouts, it is
necessary to have solder melt at a lower temperature, and that made
under the rule given will melt at 440 to 475 degrees.
No tool to a plumber is more important than the cloth used in joint
making. To make it, take a piece of new mole skin or fustian, of
moderate thickness, 12 inches long by 9 inches wide, fold it up one
side 4 inches; then 4 inches again, and again 4 inches; then fold it
in the middle, which will make your cloth 4 × 4-1/2 inches, and of 6
thickness. After this is done, sew up the ragged ends to keep it from
opening. Then pour a little hot tallow on one side and the cloth is
ready for use. In Fig. 160-a is shown, H, a hand holding the cloth C in
the process of “wiping the joint,” which will now be described.
First place a small piece of paper under the joint to catch the surplus
solder D and begin soldering as follows: Take the felt F in the right
hand and with it hold the ladle three parts full of solder. To see that
it is not too hot hold your hand within 2 inches or so of the solder;
if it quickly burns your hand it is too hot; if you can only just hold
your hand this distance, use it; but if you cannot feel the heat, the
solder is too cold.
When you begin to pour your solder upon the joint do it very lightly
and not too much at a time in one place, but keep the ladle moving
backward and forward, pouring from E to J, first on one side of the
joint to the other and from end to end.
Pour also an inch or two up the soiling, as shown at E to make the pipe
of proper temperature, _i.e._, to the same heat as the solder. The
further, in reason, the heat is run or taken along the pipe, the better
the chance of making the joint.
[Illustration: Fig. 160-a.]
Keep pouring and with the left hand hold the cloth C to catch the
solder and also cause the same to tin the lower side of the pipe and to
keep the solder from dropping down. This cloth, so important in joint
making is elsewhere described. By the process of steady pouring the
solder now becomes nice and soft and begins to feel shaped, firm and
bulky.
When in this shape and in a semi-fluid condition quickly put the ladle
down, and instantly with the left hand shape one side of the joint
always beginning at the outsides, or at that part next the soiling;
then take the cloth in the right hand and do the other side, _finishing
on the top_; a light run of the cloth all round the joint will, if the
solder has not set and you have been quick with your work, give the
appearance of a turned joint. After a little practice the joint may be
made without changing the cloth from one hand to the other.
_The secret of joint making is getting the lead to the heat of the
solder and in roughly shaping the solder, while in the semi-fluid
state._
Good mechanical fitting is the result of two things—good judgment and a
delicate sense of touch.