22. Clothes and ornaments

The dress of the ordinary cultivator is most common-place and consists

only of a loin-cloth, another cloth thrown over the shoulders and

upper part of the body, which except for this is often bare, and a

third rough cloth wound loosely round the head. All these, originally

white, soon assume a very dingy hue. There is thus no colour in a

man's everyday attire, but the gala dress for holidays consists of a

red _pagri_ or turban, a black, coloured or white coat, and a white

loin-cloth with red silk borders if he can afford it. The Kunbi is

seldom or never seen with his head bare; this being considered a

bad omen because every one bares his head when a death occurs. Women

wear _lugras_, or a single long cloth of red, blue or black cotton,

and under this the _choli_, or small breast-cloth. They have one

silk-bordered cloth for special occasions. A woman having a husband

alive must not wear a white cloth with no colour in it, as this is

the dress of widows. A white cloth with a coloured border may be

worn. The men generally wear shoes which are open at the back of

the heel, and clatter as they move along. Women do not, as a rule,

wear shoes unless these are necessary for field work, or if they go

out just after their confinement. But they have now begun to do so

in towns. Women have the usual collection of ornaments on all parts

of the person. The head ornaments should be of gold when this metal

can be afforded. On the finger they have a miniature mirror set in a

ring; as a rule not more than one ring is worn, so that the hands may

be free for work. For a similar reason glass bangles, being fragile,

are worn only on the left wrist and metal ones on the right. But the

Dhanoje Kunbis, as already stated, have cocoanut shell bangles on

both wrists. They smear a mark of red powder on the forehead or have

a spangle there. Girls are generally tattooed in childhood when the

skin is tender, and the operation is consequently less painful. They

usually have a small crescent and circle between the brows, small

circles or dots on each temple and on the nose, cheeks and chin, and

five small marks on the back of the hands to represent flies. Some

of the Deshmukh families have now adopted the sacred thread; they

also put caste marks on the forehead, and wear the shape of _pagri_

or turban formerly distinctive of Maratha Brahmans.

The Tribes and Castes of the Central Provinces of India, Volume 4 · 第 47 / 607 题