PEKING (_continued_)—AND HOME.
Difficulty of sketching in the streets—My journey from Peking
to Tientsin—A Chinese house-boat—The Peiho River—Tientsin—From
Tientsin to Shanghai—And home.
I don’t think I was ever in a place where it was more difficult to sketch
out in the open than Peking. I tried it on several occasions, and nearly
always had to abandon my intention, for almost immediately I produced
my sketch-book, and before even I had time to commence operations, I
would be absolutely hemmed in on all sides by a dense crowd of dirty
insolent rascals, who, as a rule, seemed far more interested in me than
in what I was sketching. It was absolutely useless getting my “boy” to
ask them civilly to move on one side, as this only appeared to cause
greater amusement among them, and, of course, it would have been absolute
madness to lose one’s temper, so I generally gave in, and beat a retreat.
Naturally there were a few quiet spots where one could work undisturbed,
such as on the city walls, but the _coup d’œil_ one got from such an
elevated position was not to be compared with that in the midst of the
busy throngs. As ill luck would have it, I had run short of photographic
films, so my Kodak was useless.
There was so much to see in the various quarters of Peking that one
could spend hours simply roaming about looking at the shops, or rather
open booths. The Chinese city was far and away the most interesting. Its
narrow streets, which were darkened by the immense number of sign-boards
hanging overhead, resembled an immense bazaar where everything
conceivable almost could be purchased. The “curio-hunting” fever came
over me like it does over all new-comers to the Far East, and many were
the good bargains I imagined I had made, although, doubtless, I shall
find that most of the things could have been bought cheaper in London.
Of course I did the “lions” as completely as possible, and visited
the theatres and the opium dens, and saw enough temples and monuments
to last me for many years, and witnessed scenes which made it hard to
realize that all these relics of the barbarism of the Middle Ages were
within touch of the civilization of the nineteenth century. Still, I
could not help coming to the same conclusion as Sir Mackenzie Wallace,
and thoroughly agree with him that “sight-seeing is the weariness of the
flesh;” so at last I made up my mind to bid adieu to all my hospitable
friends and make another move on my homeward journey, for I still had
many weary miles to traverse before I reached Old England again.
There are two ways of getting to Tientsin, the port of Peking, where one
embarks for Shanghai—either in what is known as a Peking cart, or by
house-boat. Having already had some not altogether delightful experiences
of these native carts, it did not take me long to decide which mode
of conveyance to use, and although I learnt that the river route was
considerably longer I settled at once to go by it.
As luck would have it, just as I had made all my arrangements to start,
I managed to find a very genial companion for the journey in Mr. Savage
Landor, a traveller and roving artist, whose acquaintance I had made
whilst in Peking. This gentleman, who had just returned from Japan,
was on his way to Australia, so we arranged to go as far as Shanghai
together. Travelling in company is undoubtedly more pleasant than alone,
more especially if one’s companion has tastes at all in sympathy with
one’s own, and in this particular instance it was especially so, for the
three days’ uneventful journey to Tientsin passed away very agreeably.
We had taken the precaution of providing ourselves with a “boy” to act
as servant and cook; and a very excellent _chef_ did he make, the little
dinners he gave us being quite works of art in their way, considering
his limited culinary arrangements. _Il va sans dire_ that we had stocked
our larder before starting with a plentiful supply of delicacies, as we
had been informed that nothing except nameless Chinese abominations could
be purchased _en route_.
The house-boat, which we had previously secured, was lying in the river
Peiho at Tungchow, the nearest point to Peking, and to reach it we had a
six hours’ journey before us down the canal, in a small open boat. Our
baggage we sent on ahead of us by cart.
It was on an absolutely perfect day in June, with the sun shining in a
cloudless sky, that I bid a fond (and I hope last) farewell to dirty
Peking, and started on the final stage of my journey towards the Yellow
Sea. After a not unpleasant, though somewhat tedious journey down the
canal, we eventually reached Tungchow, and went on board the “yacht,”
where we found that Joe, our boy, had got quite a nice little supper
ready for us.
A Chinese native house-boat, though undoubtedly admirably adapted for its
purposes, is certainly not what one would term a luxurious craft, nor one
in which I should care to linger longer than was absolutely necessary. It
is a very long vessel, partially decked over, with the saloon amidships,
the galley aft, and the men’s quarters “up for’ard.” Its rig consists
of one mast, with the usual Chinese picturesque mat-sail. The crew is
usually composed of five men and the master.
[Illustration: MY HOUSE-BOAT.]
Although perhaps not scrupulously clean, the cabin, by candlelight at
any rate, looked all right, and for a wonder did not smell over-stuffy,
as such places usually do; so as we sat down to supper we congratulated
ourselves on at least having decent quarters for the next two days. While
we were eating our meal, talking of one thing and another, I happened
to remark that we were doubtless fortunate in getting this particular
house-boat, for I had heard that as a rule these craft simply swarmed
with vermin of all sorts, whereas this one seemed absolutely free from
them, as I had not detected any sign of “life” about the place. The words
were scarcely out of my mouth when I noticed Landor, who was seated
opposite me, smile and look at the wall behind me. I glanced round, when
to my horror I saw coming towards us what looked like a long procession
of positively the biggest blackbeetles and cockroaches I ever set eyes
on, and which, doubtless attracted by the food, were making for the
table. I have such a natural loathing of these filthy creatures that
I cleared out on to the deck in no time, and, as may be imagined, my
supper was abruptly ended. We then discovered that the saloon was simply
infested with all sorts of playful creatures, which, though perhaps
presenting some interest to the entymological student, certainly offered
no attraction from an artistic point of view. I decided without much
hesitation that sleeping on deck in the open air under the canopy of the
stars would be preferable to an unconditional surrender of my person
during the dark hours to this watchful enemy; so when “sweet slumber
beckoned us to her arms,” I betook myself to a downy couch, consisting
of an old sail thrown over two packing cases on the fore-deck, whilst
Landor, relying on the merits of Keating’s powder, retired to the
sleeping-apartment of the cabin, and barricaded himself inside quite a
magic circle of “vermin-killer.”
These trivial discomforts did not, however, interfere with our enjoyment
of the trip and the novel scenes around us, for from the time we left
Tungchow till we reached Tientsin the winding river was one continuous
and ever-changing panorama of life and movement. I don’t think I ever
before saw such an immense number of boats on any river as we passed
during that journey, all apparently of the same size and pattern, and
as usual positively crowded with human beings. As far as the eye could
see on either side, owing to the flatness of the scenery and the many
turns in the river, the country seemed absolutely planted, so to speak,
with huge mat sails, and the effect was indescribably strange. All this,
added to the teeming crowds at work in the fields, presented a scene of
population the like of which I imagine could not be witnessed anywhere
but in China.
We reached the last village before Tientsin too late for the boat to
be able to proceed that evening, as the river, we learnt, was closed
after a certain hour; so, rather than spend another night on board when
so close to a decent hotel, we decided to leave the boy in charge of
our belongings, with instructions to bring them on the first thing in
the morning, and to go across country to the town in some conveyance.
With some difficulty two jinrickshas were procured, and with two boys
in the shafts of each, we started off at a good pace for our goal. This
was my first experience of these convenient little carriages with their
apparently indefatigable human steeds in the shafts, and very pleasant
did I find the motion, more especially with the recollection of my recent
travels fresh in my memory.
We had about six miles to go, and the whole way the two boys went at
a quick run, only stopping once or twice to change places between the
shafts. Gradually the native houses on either side of the broad road
began to get more numerous. On the horizon in front I could make out that
indefinable sort of glare which by night seems to hang over all large
towns, whilst, as though to assure me that my long journey was at length
over, the distant sound of the whistle, of some large steamer in the
river came wafted to my ears on the calm evening air; and when shortly
after I found myself passing through fine well-arranged avenues and
streets lighted by gas, I felt this really was the end of my discomforts,
the fact of our finding excellent accommodation and a most obliging
landlord at the Globe Hotel, where we put up, helping not a little to
increase this pleasurable feeling.
We found we had about twenty-four hours before the steamer started for
Shanghai, so had ample time to look round and see all there was to be
seen of this busy place. The next day, therefore, passed rapidly enough,
and after a delightful little dinner at the British Consulate with
Mr. and Mrs. Brennan, we went on board the s.s. _Hsin-Yu_ in the very
best possible spirits; in fact, I don’t remember ever feeling happier
than I did when I found myself once more on a well-appointed ship, and
with the feeling that I had safely accomplished the greater part of my
self-imposed task.
The trip to Shanghai occupied three and a half days, the weather being so
delightful that it was quite like yachting in the Channel. The _Hsin-Yu_
was a fine steamer of some 1500 tons, belonging to the China Merchants
Company, manned by Chinese, but officered entirely by Europeans. She had,
I learnt, the proud privilege of flying the “Greyhound” flag of the East.
We called in at Chefoo, and remained there long enough to have a hasty
look round this quaint little semi-English village. Then on again to
Shanghai, where I arrived on June 26, 1891.
And here I will leave you, kind reader, for my long and arduous ten
months’ pilgrimage across the vast Continent of Asia was thus complete—a
pilgrimage which, although full of hardships and discomforts, was fully
compensated by my strange and delightful experiences, so much so that in
spite of all I should be glad of an opportunity to do many parts of it
over again.
Nought remained for me now but to choose my route home. This I eventually
decided to make _viâ_ Japan and America, thus completing a circuit of the
globe by an entirely novel route.
[Illustration: SHANGHAI.]
[Illustration: Map shewing MR. PRICE’S ROUTE from the ARCTIC OCEAN to the
YELLOW SEA.
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON AND COMPANY, LIMITED.
_G. Philip & Son, London & Liverpool._]
INDEX.
A
Aalesund, 6
Accident on Great Post Road, 176
Angara river, 178, 224
navigation of, 227
Siberiakoff’s scheme for its navigation, 226
“_Angliski Boxe_,” 268
April 8, 1891, 264
“At homes” at Lady Walsham’s, 358
B
Bear-hunting, 95
_Biscaya_, the steamship, 2
good-bye to the, 59
in the ice, 16
our party on board, 3
and _Thule_, departure of, 60
Botoiskaya, 158
Bradiagga, 170
“Brick” tea, 290
C
Camel-cart, 303
Camels, 304
Cape Flyaway, 11
Capital punishment, 144
“Chaman” stone, the, 228
China, over-population, 325
Chinese cities, 340
cooking, 343
house-boat, 374
inns, 340
inn, room in, 342
vodka, 343
women, small feet of, 325
Cold, 161
Cold, first touch of, 96
“Convict’s word,” 199
Crowther, our ice-master, 12
Czar’s birthday, celebration of, in Irkutsk, 219
D
Dogger Bank, 4
Dogs, native, 79
Dudinskoi, 64
E
Eclipse of the moon, 327
Englishman in North China, 345
Exciting incident, 261
F
Flies, 349
Forest track, 167
Forests of Northern Siberia, 69
Foxes, white, 64
G
Gobi Desert, early morning in, 308
first glimpse of, 313
Holfer-Sum, 324
meets homeward-bound mail in, 314
Lama settlement of Tcho-Iyr, 315
Mongol food, 311
my American cooking-stove, 303
post station in mid-desert, 321
preparations for, 302
prevalent wind in, 318
sport in, 319
the noonday halt, 309
Tola river, 312
water in, 310
Golchika, 32
to Karaoul, 34
Great Wall of China, 347
the “First Parallel,” 333
H
Hart, Sir Robert, interview with, 359
Highway robbery, 160
Holidays in Siberia, 217
I
Inquest, 84
Irkutsk, arrival at, 179
a ball at M. de Sievers, 187
amusements, 217
cost of living in, 219
fire brigade, 215
foundling hospital, 212
garrison of, 190
Moskovskaia Podvorié, 180
museum, 216
police, 190
prison, 192
artists, 196
criminal madhouse, 203
incongruities of, 194
internal arrangements of, 193
I paint a picture in, 206
political prisoners, 205
solitary cells, 204
the baroness, 200
last interview with, 207
workshops, 194
prisoners, outdoor employment of, 198
public institutions, 188
society, 184
telephones and telegraphs, 216
the Bolshoi Oulitza, 183
the gold industry, 209
to Kiakhta, my preparation for journey, 223
unpleasant experiences, 181
K
Kalgan, 331
American missionaries, 335
impressions of, 334
Kamin pass, 88
Kansk, 165
Karaoul, 35
the chief inhabitant of, 37
Kara Sea, curio-hunting, 21
entrance to, 15
ice-bound in the, 24
icefields in, 17
its deadly silence, 27
seal-shooting, 25
the captain’s polar bear in the, 29
the walrus-hunters, 20
thickness of the ice, 28
twilight in, 20
Kasanskoi, my first visit to, 49
trader’s house at, 50
departure from, 61
Khabarova, the hamlet of, 14
Kiakhta, arrival at, 244
departure for, 223
departure from, 250
to Ourga, my preparations for journey, 249
Kolguier Island, 11
Koutoulik, 165
waiting-room in post-house, 175
Krasnoiarsk, departure for, 124
a convoy of prisoners on the road to, 138
a _Priviligiert_ prisoner, 118
arrival at, 130
cigarette-making in, prison, 149
courtyard of perasilny, 146
criminal exiles, 134
fire-towers, 155
hotel at, 130
incident at fancy dress ball, 152
interior of perasilny, 147
Jewish and Mohammedan prisoners, 140
local malefactors, 153
married prisoners’ quarters in perasilny, 147
political exiles, 151
_Priviligierts_ criminals, 136
scene outside prison, 149
society, 132
the market place, 131
the night refuge, 153
the perasilny of, 141
the theatre, 155
verification of prisoners, 145
departure from, 157
“Kupetski track,” 236
incidents on, 237
L
Lake Baikal, 230
first view of, 229
the road across, on the ice, 232
transparency of ice, 233
Landor, Mr. Savage, 373
Lee, Mr. Charles, 182, 227
Mr. George, death of, 71
Lhassa, 277
Liestvinitz, 230
Lofoden Islands, 7
M
Mail courier, 173
Manhati Pass, 266
Matwieff, my servant, 157
Maimachin, 250
Midnight sun, 8
Mirage on the Yenisei river, 46
Mongol farmyard, 258
hair-dressing, 255
Mongolia, currency of, 289
Russian influence in, 296
Mongolian camels, 305
Mongols, 255
Moufshkaya, 234
Mountains of North China, 328
Mule-litter, 337
Mules, 337
N
Nankaou Pass, 347
Nasymovo, 95
Nijni Udinsk, 165
North Cape, 8
O
Official Russia, first visit from, 83
Oka river, 175
Ostiaks, 77
Ourga, my arrival at, 271
absence of beggars, 286
a mad dog, 288
an impromptu “interview,” 279
disposal of the dead, 289
dogs, 286
festival of the Maidha, 297
first impressions of, 273
Lamas, 281
Mr. Feodroff, 274
prayer-boards, 284
prayer-flags, 285
prayer-wheels, 282
religious fervour of the Mongols, 282
the bazaar, 292
the “Bogdor,” 275
the figure of the Maidha, 276
the “old, old story,” 299
the pony and camel market, 293
the Russian Consulate, 273
watchmen, 295
departure from, 308
P
Peiho river, 374
Peking, departure from, 374
entrance to, 351
exciting times, 354
sketching in, 371
street scenes, 357
the British Legation, 354
the hotel, 353
_Phœnix_, arrival of, 42
cabin of, 45
her crew, 43
springs a leak, 67
Political exiles at Kiakhta, 247
R
Russian cooking, our first taste of, 44
custom-house officer, 48
heavy mail, caravan of, 305
the two Cossacks with, 306
hospitality, my first experience of, 54
Imperial Mail, 173
light mail in the Gobi, 305
Russian police officer, 84
Russo-Chinese frontier, 250
S
Saham Balhousar, 324
departure from, 326
Samovars, 168
Samoyede grave, 38
hut, 40
Samoyedes at Golchika, 33
Seagulls, 77
Selenga river, 242
exciting incident on, 243
Selivanaka, 77
Shanghai, arrival at, 379
Tientsin to, 379
Siberia, first glimpse of, 12
Sin Fou Fou, 339
Sketching at Kasanskoi, 52
Skopti, 77
Snow ridges, 159
Sotnikoff, Mr., a visit to, 75
Sledge-travelling, novelty of, 162
Sledging, 124
first experiences of, 129
on Great Post Road, 156
the cold, 129
the _padarojna_, 127
the post houses, 128
the widow, 125
Staroster of prisoners, 142
Steam-launch, expedition of our, 41
T
Tarantass, 239
Tchai Dar, 347
Tchien-Men gate, Peking, 351
Tea caravans, 160
with a Lama, 291
_Thule_, arrival of the, 56
Tientsin, arrival at, 378
Tiretskaya, 175
Touloung, 165, 174
Travellers, scarcity of, in Siberia, 173
Trees, northern limit of, 64
Troitzkosavsk, 245
Tundras, 38
of Northern Siberia, 47
Tungchow, 374
Turuchansk, 80
visit to the monastery, 81
V
Ventilation, 165
Village communes, 164
priest, 85
W
Walsham, Sir John, interview with, 355
Waygatch, the Straits of, 14
Werchneimbackskoi, 83
Wiggins’s expedition, 63
Wood, fuel on the Yenisei, 66
Worogoro, 90
the Tartar at, 91
Y
Yenisei river, proportions of, 62
Yeniseisk, arrival at, 96
amusements, 104
a visit to the men’s prison, 107
a visit to the women’s prison, 112
chat with political exile, 115
custom-house officials, 101
departure of criminals, 113
fire brigade, 118
first impressions of, 98
gold fields, 103
High Street, 120
houses, 119
my lodgings, 102
political exiles at, 114
shops, 101
society, 105
the hospital, 117
the market, 101
Yambooshan, arrival at, 330
Yourts, 252
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED.
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.