CHAPTER XVII.

CAMBRIDGE AND LOWELL.

The two places of most general interest in the vicinity of Boston

are Cambridge and Lowell. Cambridge is to Massachusetts, and, I may

almost say, is to all the northern States, what Cambridge and Oxford

are to England. It is the seat of the University which gives the

highest education to be attained by the highest classes in that

country. Lowell also is in little to Massachusetts and to New England

what Manchester is to us in so great a degree. It is the largest and

most prosperous cotton-manufacturing town in the States.

Cambridge is not above three or four miles from Boston. Indeed, the

town of Cambridge properly so called begins where Boston ceases. The

Harvard College--that is its name, taken from one of its original

founders--is reached by horse-cars in twenty minutes from the city.

An Englishman feels inclined to regard the place as a suburb of

Boston; but if he so expresses himself, he will not find favour in

the eyes of the men of Cambridge.

The University is not so large as I had expected to find it. It

consists of Harvard College, as the undergraduates' department, and

of professional schools of law, medicine, divinity, and science.

In the few words that I will say about it I will confine myself to

Harvard College proper, conceiving that the professional schools

connected with it have not in themselves any special interest. The

average number of undergraduates does not exceed 450, and these

are divided into four classes. The average number of degrees taken

annually by bachelors of art is something under 100. Four years'

residence is required for a degree, and at the end of that period

a degree is given as a matter of course if the candidate's conduct

has been satisfactory. When a young man has pursued his studies for

that period, going through the required examinations and lectures,

he is not subjected to any final examination as is the case with a

candidate for a degree at Oxford and Cambridge. It is, perhaps, in

this respect that the greatest difference exists between the English

Universities and Harvard College. With us a young man may, I take

it, still go through his three or four years with a small amount of

study. But his doing so does not insure him his degree. If he have

utterly wasted his time he is plucked, and late but heavy punishment

comes upon him. At Cambridge in Massachusetts the daily work of

the men is made more obligatory; but if this be gone through with

such diligence as to enable the student to hold his own during the

four years, he has his degree as a matter of course. There are no

degrees conferring special honour. A man cannot go out "in honours"

as he does with us. There are no "firsts" or "double firsts;" no

"wranglers;" no "senior opts" or "junior opts." Nor are there prizes

of fellowships and livings to be obtained. It is, I think, evident

from this that the greatest incentives to high excellence are wanting

at Harvard College. There is neither the reward of honour nor of

money. There is none of that great competition which exists at our

Cambridge for the high place of Senior Wrangler; and, consequently,

the degree of excellence attained is no doubt lower than with us.

But I conceive that the general level of the University education is

higher there than with us; that a young man is more sure of getting

his education, and that a smaller percentage of men leaves Harvard

College utterly uneducated than goes in that condition out of Oxford

or Cambridge. The education at Harvard College is more diversified in

its nature, and study is more absolutely the business of the place

than it is at our Universities.

The expense of education at Harvard College is not much lower than

at our colleges; with us there are, no doubt, more men who are

absolutely extravagant than at Cambridge, Massachusetts. The actual

authorized expenditure in accordance with the rules is only £50 per

annum, _i.e._ 249 dollars; but this does not, by any means, include

everything. Some of the richer young men may spend as much as £300

per annum, but the largest number vary their expenditure from £100

to £180 per annum; and I take it the same thing may be said of our

Universities. There are many young men at Harvard College of very

small means. They will live on £70 per annum, and will earn a great

portion of that by teaching in the vacations. There are thirty-six

scholarships attached to the University varying in value from £20 to

£60 per annum; and there is also a beneficiary fund for supplying

poor scholars with assistance during their collegiate education. Many

are thus brought up at Cambridge who have no means of their own, and

I think I may say that the consideration in which they are held among

their brother students is in no degree affected by their position.

I doubt whether we can say so much of the sizars and bible clerks at

our Universities.

At Harvard College there is, of course, none of that old-fashioned,

time-honoured, delicious, mediæval life which lends so much grace and

beauty to our colleges. There are no gates, no porter's lodges, no

butteries, no halls, no battels, and no common rooms. There are no

proctors, no bulldogs, no bursers, no deans, no morning and evening

chapel, no quads, no surplices, no caps and gowns. I have already

said that there are no examinations for degrees and no honours; and I

can easily conceive that in the absence of all these essentials many

an Englishman will ask what right Harvard College has to call itself

a University.

I have said that there are no honours,--and in our sense there are

none. But I should give offence to my American friends if I did not

explain that there are prizes given--I think all in money, and that

they vary from 50 to 10 dollars. These are called _deturs_. The

degrees are given on Commencement Day, at which occasion certain

of the expectant graduates are selected to take parts in a public

literary exhibition. To be so selected seems to be tantamount to

taking a degree in honours. There is also a dinner on Commencement

Day,--at which, however, "no wine or other intoxicating drink shall

be served."

It is required that every student shall attend some place of

Christian worship on Sundays; but he, or his parents for him, may

elect what denomination of church he shall attend. There is a

University chapel on the University grounds which belongs, if I

remember right, to the Episcopalian Church. The young men for the

most part live in College, having rooms in the College buildings;

but they do not board in those rooms. There are establishments in

the town under the patronage of the University, at which dinner,

breakfast, and supper are provided; and the young men frequent one

of these houses or another as they, or their friends for them, may

arrange. Every young man not belonging to a family resident within a

hundred miles of Cambridge, and whose parents are desirous to obtain

the protection thus provided, is placed, as regards his pecuniary

management, under the care of a patron, and this patron acts by him

as a father does in England by a boy at school. He pays out his money

for him and keeps him out of debt. The arrangement will not recommend

itself to young men at Oxford quite so powerfully as it may do to

the fathers of some young men who have been there. The rules with

regard to the lodging and boarding-houses are very stringent. Any

festive entertainment is to be reported to the President. No wine or

spirituous liquors may be used, &c. It is not a picturesque system,

this; but it has its advantages.

There is a handsome library attached to the College, which the young

men can use; but it is not as extensive as I had expected. The

University is not well off for funds by which to increase it. The

new museum in the College is also a handsome building. The edifices

used for the undergraduates' chambers and for the lecture-rooms are

by no means handsome. They are very ugly red-brick houses standing

here and there without order. There are seven such, and they are

called Brattle House, College House, Divinity Hall, Hollis Hall,

Holsworthy Hall, Massachusetts Hall, and Stoughton Hall. It is almost

astonishing that buildings so ugly should have been erected for such

a purpose. These, together with the library, the museum, and the

chapel, stand on a large green, which might be made pretty enough if

it were kept well mown like the gardens of our Cambridge colleges;

but it is much neglected. Here, again, the want of funds--the res

angusta domi--must be pleaded as an excuse. On the same green, but at

some little distance from any other building, stands the President's

pleasant house.

The immediate direction of the College is of course mainly in

the hands of the President, who is supreme. But for the general

management of the Institution there is a Corporation, of which he is

one. It is stated in the laws of the University that the Corporation

of the University and its Overseers constitute the Government of the

University. The Corporation consists of the President, five Fellows,

so called, and a Treasurer. These Fellows are chosen, as vacancies

occur, by themselves, subject to the concurrence of the Overseers.

But these Fellows are in nowise like to the Fellows of our colleges,

having no salaries attached to their offices. The Board of Overseers

consists of the State Governor, other State officers, the President

and Treasurer of Harvard College, and thirty other persons,--men of

note, chosen by vote. The Faculty of the College, in which is vested

the immediate care and government of the undergraduates, is composed

of the President and the Professors. The Professors answer to

the tutors of our colleges, and upon them the education of the

place depends. I cannot complete this short notice of Harvard

College without saying that it is happy in the possession of that

distinguished natural philosopher, Professor Agassiz. M. Agassiz

has collected at Cambridge a museum of such things as natural

philosophers delight to show, which I am told is all but invaluable.

As my ignorance on all such matters is of a depth which the Professor

can hardly imagine, and which it would have shocked him to behold, I

did not visit the museum. Taking the University of Harvard College as

a whole, I should say that it is most remarkable in this,--that it

does really give to its pupils that education which it professes to

give. Of our own Universities other good things may be said, but that

one special good thing cannot always be said.

Cambridge boasts itself as the residence of four or five men well

known to fame on the American and also on the European side of the

ocean. President Felton's* name is very familiar to us, and wherever

Greek scholarship is held in repute, that is known. So also is the

name of Professor Agassiz, of whom I have spoken. Russell Lowell is

one of the Professors of the College,--that Russell Lowell who sang

of Birdo'fredum Sawin, and whose Biglow Papers were edited with such

an ardour of love by our Tom Brown. Birdo'fredum is worthy of all

the ardour. Mr. Dana is also a Cambridge man,--he who was "two years

before the mast," and who since that has written to us of Cuba.

But Mr. Dana, though residing at Cambridge, is not of Cambridge,

and, though a literary man, he does not belong to literature. He

is,--could he help it?--a special attorney. I must not, however,

degrade him, for in the States barristers and attorneys are all one.

I cannot but think that he could help it, and that he should not

give up to law what was meant for mankind. I fear, however, that

successful law has caught him in her intolerant clutches, and that

literature, who surely would be the nobler mistress, must wear the

willow. Last and greatest is the poet-laureat of the West; for Mr.

Longfellow also lives at Cambridge.

*Since these words were written President Felton has died. I,

as I returned on my way homewards, had the melancholy privilege

of being present at his funeral. I feel bound to record here

the great kindness with which Mr. Felton assisted me in obtaining

such information as I needed respecting the Institution over

which he presided.

I am not at all aware whether the nature of the manufacturing

corporation of Lowell is generally understood by Englishmen. I

confess that until I made personal acquaintance with the plan, I

was absolutely ignorant on the subject. I knew that Lowell was a

manufacturing town at which cotton is made into calico, and at which

calico is printed,--as is the case at Manchester; but I conceived

this was done at Lowell, as it is done at Manchester, by individual

enterprise,--that I or any one else could open a mill at Lowell, and

that the manufacturers there were ordinary traders, as they are at

other manufacturing towns. But this is by no means the case.

That which most surprises an English visitor on going through the

mills at Lowell is the personal appearance of the men and women who

work at them. As there are twice as many women as there are men, it

is to them that the attention is chiefly called. They are not only

better dressed, cleaner, and better mounted in every respect than

the girls employed at manufactories in England, but they are so

infinitely superior as to make a stranger immediately perceive that

some very strong cause must have created the difference. We all

know the class of young women whom we generally see serving behind

counters in the shops of our larger cities. They are neat, well

dressed, careful, especially about their hair, composed in their

manner, and sometimes a little supercilious in the propriety of their

demeanour. It is exactly the same class of young women that one sees

in the factories at Lowell. They are not sallow, nor dirty, nor

ragged, nor rough. They have about them no signs of want, or of low

culture. Many of us also know the appearance of those girls who work

in the factories in England; and I think it will be allowed that a

second glance at them is not wanting to show that they are in every

respect inferior to the young women who attend our shops. The matter,

indeed, requires no argument. Any young woman at a shop would be

insulted by being asked whether she had worked at a factory. The

difference with regard to the men at Lowell is quite as strong,

though not so striking. Working men do not show their status in the

world by their outward appearance as readily as women; and, as I have

said before, the number of the women greatly exceeded that of the

men.

One would of course be disposed to say that the superior condition of

the workers must have been occasioned by superior wages; and this, to

a certain extent, has been the cause. But the higher payment is not

the chief cause. Women's wages, including all that they receive at

the Lowell factories, average about 14_s._ a week, which is, I take

it, fully a third more than women can earn in Manchester, or did

earn before the loss of the American cotton began to tell upon them.

But if wages at Manchester were raised to the Lowell standard, the

Manchester women would not be clothed, fed, cared for, and educated

like the Lowell women. The fact is, that the workmen and the

workwomen at Lowell are not exposed to the chances of an open

labour market. They are taken in, as it were, to a philanthropical

manufacturing college, and then looked after and regulated more as

girls and lads at a great seminary, than as hands by whose industry

profit is to be made out of capital. This is all very nice and pretty

at Lowell, but I am afraid it could not be done at Manchester.

There are at present twelve different manufactories at Lowell, each

of which has what is called a separate corporation. The Merrimack

manufacturing company was incorporated in 1822, and thus Lowell was

commenced. The Lowell machine-shop was incorporated in 1845, and

since that no new establishment has been added. In 1821 a certain

Boston manufacturing company, which had mills at Waltham, near

Boston, was attracted by the water-power of the river Merrimack,

on which the present town of Lowell is situated. A canal, called

the Pawtucket Canal, had been made for purposes of navigation from

one reach of the river to another, with the object of avoiding the

Pawtucket Falls; and this canal, with the adjacent water-power of

the river, was purchased for the Boston Company. The place was then

called Lowell, after one of the partners in that company.

It must be understood that water-power alone is used for preparing

the cotton and working the spindles and looms of the cotton mills.

Steam is applied in the two establishments in which the cottons are

printed, for the purposes of printing, but I think nowhere else.

When the mills are at full work, about two-and-a-half million yards

of cotton goods are made every week, and nearly a million pounds

of cotton are consumed per week (_i.e._ 842,000 lbs.), but the

consumption of coal is only 30,000 tons in the year. This will give

some idea of the value of the water-power. The Pawtucket Canal was,

as I say, bought, and Lowell was commenced. The town was incorporated

in 1826, and the railway between it and Boston was opened in 1835,

under the superintendence of Mr. Jackson, the gentleman by whom the

purchase of the canal had in the first instance been made. Lowell now

contains about 40,000 inhabitants.

The following extract is taken from the hand-book to Lowell:--"Mr.

F. C. Lowell had in his travels abroad observed the effect of large

manufacturing establishments on the character of the people, and in

the establishment at Waltham the founders looked for a remedy for

these defects. They thought that education and good morals would even

enhance the profit, and that they could compete with Great Britain by

introducing a more cultivated class of operatives. For this purpose

they built boarding-houses, which, under the direct supervision of

the agent, were kept by discreet matrons"--I can answer for the

discreet matrons at Lowell--"mostly widows, no boarders being allowed

except operatives. Agents and overseers of high moral character were

selected; regulations were adopted at the mills and boarding-houses,

by which only respectable girls were employed. The mills were nicely

painted and swept,"--I can also answer for the painting and sweeping

at Lowell,--"trees set out in the yards and along the streets, habits

of neatness and cleanliness encouraged; and the result justified

the expenditure. At Lowell the same policy has been adopted and

extended; more spacious mills and elegant boarding-houses have been

erected;"--as to the elegance, it may be a matter of taste, but

as to the comfort there is no question,--"the same care as to the

classes employed; more capital has been expended for cleanliness and

decoration; a hospital has been established for the sick, where,

for a small price, they have an experienced physician and skilful

nurses. An institute, with an extensive library, for the use of

the mechanics, has been endowed. The agents have stood forward in

the support of schools, churches, lectures, and lyceums, and their

influence contributed highly to the elevation of the moral and

intellectual character of the operatives. Talent has been encouraged,

brought forward, and recommended."--For some considerable time

the young women wrote, edited, and published a newspaper among

themselves, called the Lowell Offering.--"And Lowell has supplied

agents and mechanics for the later manufacturing places who have

given tone to society, and extended the beneficial influence of

Lowell through the United States. Girls from the country, with a

true Yankee spirit of independence, and confident in their own

powers, pass a few years here, and then return to get married with

a dower secured by their exertions, with more enlarged ideas and

extended means of information, and their places are supplied by

younger relatives. A larger proportion of the female population

of New England has been employed at some time in manufacturing

establishments, and they are not on this account less good wives,

mothers, or educators of families." Then the account goes on to tell

how the health of the girls has been improved by their attendance at

the mills, how they put money into the savings-banks, and buy railway

shares and farms; how there are thirty churches in Lowell, a library,

banks, and insurance offices; how there is a cemetery, and a park,

and how everything is beautiful, philanthropic, profitable, and

magnificent.

Thus Lowell is the realization of a commercial Utopia. Of all the

statements made in the little book which I have quoted I cannot point

out one which is exaggerated, much less false. I should not call the

place elegant; in other respects I am disposed to stand by the book.

Before I had made any inquiry into the cause of the apparent comfort,

it struck me at once that some great effort at excellence was being

made. I went into one of the discreet matrons' residences; and

perhaps may give but an indifferent idea of her discretion when I say

that she allowed me to go into the bedrooms. If you want to ascertain

the inner ways or habits of life of any man, woman, or child, see,

if it be practicable to do so, his or her bedroom. You will learn

more by a minute's glance round that holy of holies, than by any

conversation. Looking-glasses and such like, suspended dresses,

and toilet-belongings, if taken without notice, cannot lie or even

exaggerate. The discreet matron at first showed me rooms only

prepared for use, for at the period of my visit Lowell was by no

means full; but she soon became more intimate with me, and I went

through the upper part of the house. My report must be altogether

in her favour and in that of Lowell. Everything was cleanly,

well-ordered, and feminine. There was not a bed on which any woman

need have hesitated to lay herself if occasion required it. I fear

that this cannot be said of the lodgings of the manufacturing classes

at Manchester. The boarders all take their meals together. As a rule,

they have meat twice a-day. Hot meat for dinner is with them as

much a matter of course, or probably more so, than with any English

man or woman who may read this book. For in the States of America

regulations on this matter are much more rigid than with us. Cold

meat is rarely seen, and to live a day without meat would be as great

a privation as to pass a night without bed.

The rules for the guidance of these boarding-houses are very rigid.

The houses themselves belong to the corporations or different

manufacturing establishments, and the tenants are altogether in the

power of the managers. None but operatives are to be taken in. The

tenants are answerable for improper conduct. The doors are to be

closed at ten o'clock. Any boarders who do not attend divine worship

are to be reported to the managers. The yards and walks are to

be kept clean, and snow removed at once; and the inmates must be

vaccinated, &c., &c., &c. It is expressly stated by the Hamilton

Company,--and I believe by all the companies,--that no one shall

be employed who is habitually absent from public worship on Sunday,

or who is known to be guilty of immorality. It is stated that the

average wages of the women are two dollars, or eight shillings, a

week, besides their board. I found when I was there that from three

dollars to three-and-a-half a week were paid to the women, of which

they paid one dollar and twenty-five cents for their board. As this

would not fully cover the expense of their keep, twenty-five cents a

week for each was also paid to the boarding-house keepers by the mill

agents. This substantially came to the same thing, as it left the two

dollars a week, or eight shillings, with the girls over and above

their cost of living. The board included washing, lights, food, bed,

and attendance,--leaving a surplus of eight shillings a week for

clothes and saving. Now let me ask any one acquainted with Manchester

and its operatives, whether that is not Utopia realized. Factory

girls, for whom every comfort of life is secured, with £21 a year

over for saving and dress! One sees the failing, however, at a

moment. It is Utopia. Any Lady Bountiful can tutor three or four

peasants and make them luxuriously comfortable. But no Lady Bountiful

can give luxurious comfort to half-a-dozen parishes. Lowell is now

nearly forty years old, and contains but 40,000 inhabitants. From

the very nature of its corporations it cannot spread itself. Chicago,

which has grown out of nothing in a much shorter period, and which

has no factories, has now 120,000 inhabitants. Lowell is a very

wonderful place and shows what philanthropy can do; but I fear it

also shows what philanthropy cannot do.

There are, however, other establishments, conducted on the same

principle as those at Lowell, which have had the same amount,

or rather the same sort, of success. Lawrence is now a town of

about 15,000 inhabitants, and Manchester of about 24,000,--if I

remember rightly;--and at those places the mills are also owned by

corporations and conducted as are those at Lowell. But it seems

to me that as New England takes her place in the world as a great

manufacturing country--which place she undoubtedly will take sooner

or later--she must abandon the hot-house method of providing for her

operatives with which she has commenced her work. In the first place,

Lowell is not open as a manufacturing town to the capitalists even

of New England at large. Stock may, I presume, be bought in the

corporations, but no interloper can establish a mill there. It is a

close manufacturing community, bolstered up on all sides, and has

none of that capacity for providing employment for a thickly-growing

population which belongs to such places as Manchester and Leeds.

That it should under its present system have been made in any degree

profitable reflects great credit on the managers; but the profit

does not reach an amount which in America can be considered as

remunerative. The total capital invested by the twelve corporations

is thirteen million and a half of dollars, or about two million seven

hundred thousand pounds. In only one of the corporations, that of

the Merrimack Company, does the profit amount to 12 per cent. In one,

that of the Boott Company, it falls below 7 per cent. The average

profit of the various establishments is something below 9 per cent.

I am of course speaking of Lowell as it was previous to the war.

American capitalists are not, as a rule, contented with so low a rate

of interest as this.

The States in these matters have had a great advantage over England.

They have been able to begin at the beginning. Manufactories have

grown up among us as our cities grew;--from the necessities and

chances of the times. When labour was wanted it was obtained in the

ordinary way; and so when houses were built they were built in the

ordinary way. We had not the experience, and the results either for

good or bad, of other nations to guide us. The Americans, in seeing

and resolving to adopt our commercial successes, have resolved also,

if possible, to avoid the evils which have attended those successes.

It would be very desirable that all our factory girls should read and

write, wear clean clothes, have decent beds, and eat hot meat every

day. But that is now impossible. Gradually, with very up-hill work,

but still I trust with sure work, much will be done to improve their

position and render their life respectable; but in England we can

have no Lowells. In our thickly populated island any commercial

Utopia is out of the question. Nor can, as I think, Lowell be taken

as a type of the future manufacturing towns of New England. When New

England employs millions in her factories, instead of thousands,--the

hands employed at Lowell, when the mills are at full work, are about

11,000,--she must cease to provide for them their beds and meals,

their church-going proprieties and orderly modes of life. In such

an attempt she has all the experience of the world against her. But

nevertheless I think she will have done much good. The tone which she

will have given will not altogether lose its influence. Employment

in a factory is now considered reputable by a farmer and his

children, and this idea will remain. Factory work is regarded as more

respectable than domestic service, and this prestige will not wear

itself altogether out. Those now employed have a strong conception of

the dignity of their own social position, and their successors will

inherit much of this, even though they may find themselves excluded

from the advantages of the present Utopia. The thing has begun

well, but it can only be regarded as a beginning. Steam, it may be

presumed, will become the motive power of cotton mills in New England

as it is with us; and when it is so, the amount of work to be done

at any one place will not be checked by any such limit as that which

now prevails at Lowell. Water-power is very cheap, but it cannot

be extended; and it would seem that no place can become large as a

manufacturing town which has to depend chiefly upon water. It is not

improbable that steam may be brought into general use at Lowell, and

that Lowell may spread itself. If it should spread itself widely, it

will lose its Utopian characteristics.

One cannot but be greatly struck by the spirit of philanthropy

in which the system of Lowell was at first instituted. It may be

presumed that men who put their money into such an undertaking did so

with the object of commercial profit to themselves; but in this case

that was not their first object. I think it may be taken for granted

that when Messrs. Jackson and Lowell went about their task, their

grand idea was to place factory work upon a respectable footing,--to

give employment in mills which should not be unhealthy, degrading,

demoralizing, or hard in its circumstances. Throughout the northern

States of America the same feeling is to be seen. Good and thoughtful

men have been active to spread education, to maintain health, to make

work compatible with comfort and personal dignity, and to divest the

ordinary lot of man of the sting of that curse which was supposed to

be uttered when our first father was ordered to eat his bread in the

sweat of his brow. One is driven to contrast this feeling, of which

on all sides one sees such ample testimony, with that sharp desire

for profit, that anxiety to do a stroke of trade at every turn, that

acknowledged necessity of being smart, which we must own is quite

as general as the nobler propensity. I believe that both phases of

commercial activity may be attributed to the same characteristic. Men

in trade in America are not more covetous than tradesmen in England,

nor probably are they more generous or philanthropical. But that

which they do, they are more anxious to do thoroughly and quickly.

They desire that every turn taken shall be a great turn,--or at any

rate that it shall be as great as possible. They go ahead either for

bad or good with all the energy they have. In the institutions at

Lowell I think we may allow that the good has very much prevailed.

I went over two of the mills, those of the Merrimack corporation, and

of the Massachusetts. At the former the printing establishment only

was at work; the cotton mills were closed. I hardly know whether it

will interest any one to learn that something under half-a-million

yards of calico are here printed annually. At the Lowell bleachery

fifteen million yards are dyed annually. The Merrimack cotton-mills

were stopped, and so had the other mills at Lowell been stopped, till

some short time before my visit. Trade had been bad, and there had of

course been a lack of cotton. I was assured that no severe suffering

had been created by this stoppage. The greater number of hands had

returned into the country,--to the farms from whence they had come;

and though a discontinuance of work and wages had of course produced

hardship, there had been no actual privation,--no hunger and want.

Those of the workpeople who had no homes out of Lowell to which to

betake themselves, and no means at Lowell of living, had received

relief before real suffering had begun. I was assured, with something

of a smile of contempt at the question, that there had been nothing

like hunger. But, as I said before, visitors always see a great deal

of rose colour, and should endeavour to allay the brilliancy of the

tint with the proper amount of human shading. But do not let any

visitor mix in the browns with too heavy a hand!

At the Massachusetts cotton-mills they were working with about

two-thirds of their full number of hands, and this, I was told, was

about the average of the number now employed throughout Lowell.

Working at this rate they had now on hand a supply of cotton to last

them for six months. Their stocks had been increased lately, and on

asking from whence, I was informed that that last received had come

to them from Liverpool. There is, I believe, no doubt but that a

considerable quantity of cotton has been shipped back from England to

the States since the civil war began. I asked the gentleman, to whose

care at Lowell I was consigned, whether he expected to get cotton

from the South,--for at that time Beaufort in South Carolina had just

been taken by the naval expedition. He had, he said, a political

expectation of a supply of cotton, but not a commercial expectation.

That at least was the gist of his reply, and I found it to be both

intelligent and intelligible. The Massachusetts mills, when at full

work, employ 1300 females and 400 males, and turn out 540,000 yards

of calico per week.

On my return from Lowell in the smoking car, an old man came and

squeezed in next to me. The place was terribly crowded, and as the

old man was thin and clean and quiet I willingly made room for him,

so as to avoid the contiguity of a neighbour who might be neither

thin, nor clean, nor quiet. He began talking to me in whispers

about the war, and I was suspicious that he was a Southerner and

a Secessionist. Under such circumstances his company might not be

agreeable, unless he could be induced to hold his tongue. At last he

said, "I come from Canada, you know, and you,--you're an Englishman,

and therefore I can speak to you openly;" and he gave me an

affectionate grip on the knee with his old skinny hand. I suppose I

do look more like an Englishman than an American, but I was surprised

at his knowing me with such certainty. "There is no mistaking you,"

he said, "with your round face and your red cheeks. They don't look

like that here," and he gave me another grip. I felt quite fond of

the old man, and offered him a cigar.

North America — Volume 1 · 第 17 / 20 章