CHAPTER XVI.

BOSTON.

From New York we returned to Boston by Hartford, the capital, or one

of the capitals of Connecticut. This proud little State is composed

of two old provinces, of which Hartford and Newhaven were the two

metropolitan towns. Indeed there was a third colony called Saybrook,

which was joined to Hartford. As neither of the two could of course

give way when Hartford and Newhaven were made into one, the houses

of legislature and the seat of government are changed about, year by

year. Connecticut is a very proud little State, and has a pleasant

legend of its own stanchness in the old colonial days. In 1662 the

colonies were united, and a charter was given to them by Charles II.

But some years later, in 1686, when the bad days of James II. had

come, this charter was considered to be too liberal, and order was

given that it should be suspended. One Sir Edmund Andross had been

appointed governor of all New England, and sent word from Boston to

Connecticut that the charter itself should be given up to him. This

the men of Connecticut refused to do. Whereupon Sir Edmund with a

military following presented himself at their assembly, declared

their governing powers to be dissolved, and after much palaver

caused the charter itself to be laid upon the table before him. The

discussion had been long, having lasted through the day into the

night, and the room had been lighted with candles. On a sudden each

light disappeared, and Sir Edmund with his followers were in the

dark. As a matter of course, when the light was restored the charter

was gone, and Sir Edmund, the governor-general, was baffled, as all

governors-general and all Sir Edmunds always are in such cases. The

charter was gone, a gallant Captain Wadsworth having carried it off

and hidden it in an oak tree. The charter was renewed when William

III. came to the throne, and now hangs triumphantly in the State

House at Hartford. The charter oak has, alas! succumbed to the

weather, but was standing a few years since. The men of Hartford are

very proud of their charter, and regard it as the parent of their

existing liberties quite as much as though no national revolution of

their own had intervened.

And indeed the Northern States of the Union, especially those of New

England, refer all their liberties to the old charters which they

held from the mother-country. They rebelled, as they themselves would

seem to say, and set themselves up as a separate people, not because

the mother-country had refused to them by law sufficient liberty and

sufficient self-control, but because the mother-country infringed the

liberties and powers of self-control which she herself had given. The

mother-country, so these States declare, had acted the part of Sir

Edmund Andross, had endeavoured to take away their charters. So they

also put out the lights, and took themselves to an oak tree of their

own,--which is still standing, though winds from the infernal regions

are now battering its branches. Long may it stand!

Whether the mother-country did or did not infringe the charters

she had given, I will not here inquire. As to the nature of those

alleged infringements, are they not written down to the number of

twenty-seven in the Declaration of Independence? I have taken the

liberty of appending this Declaration to the end of my book, and the

twenty-seven paragraphs may all be seen. They mostly begin with He.

"He" has done this, and "He" has done that. The "He" is poor George

III., whose twenty-seven mortal sins against his transatlantic

colonies are thus recapitulated. It would avail nothing to argue now

whether those deeds were sins or virtues; nor would it have availed

then. The child had grown up and was strong, and chose to go alone

into the world. The young bird was fledged, and flew away. Poor

George III. with his cackling was certainly not efficacious in

restraining such a flight. But it is gratifying to see how this new

people, when they had it in their power to change all their laws, to

throw themselves upon any Utopian theory that the folly of a wild

philanthropy could devise, to discard as abominable every vestige of

English rule and English power,--it is gratifying to see that when

they could have done all this, they did not do so, but preferred to

cling to things English. Their old colonial limits were still to

be the borders of their States. Their old charters were still to

be regarded as the sources from whence their State powers had come.

The old laws were to remain in force. The precedents of the English

courts were to be held as legal precedents in the courts of the

new nation,--and are now so held. It was still to be England,--but

England without a King making his last struggle for political power.

This was the idea of the people, and this was their feeling; and that

idea has been carried out, and that feeling has remained.

In the constitution of the State of New York nothing is said about

the religion of the people. It was regarded as a subject with

which the constitution had no concern whatever. But as soon as we

come among the stricter people of New England we find that the

constitution-makers have not been able absolutely to ignore the

subject. In Connecticut it is enjoined that as it is the duty of all

men to worship the Supreme Being, and their right to render that

worship in the mode most consistent with their consciences, no person

shall be by law compelled to join or be classed with any religious

association. The line of argument is hardly logical, the conclusion

not being in accordance with, or hanging on the first of the two

premises. But nevertheless the meaning is clear. In a free country

no man shall be made to worship after any special fashion; but it

is decreed by the constitution that every man is bound by duty to

worship after some fashion. The article then goes on to say how they

who do worship are to be taxed for the support of their peculiar

church. I am not quite clear whether the New Yorkers have not managed

this difficulty with greater success. When we come to the old Bay

State,--to Massachusetts,--we find the Christian religion spoken of

in the Constitution as that which in some one of its forms should

receive the adherence of every good citizen.

Hartford is a pleasant little town, with English-looking houses, and

an English-looking country around it. Here, as everywhere through the

States, one is struck by the size and comfort of the residences. I

sojourned there at the house of a friend, and could find no limit to

the number of spacious sitting-rooms which it contained. The modest

dining-room and drawing-room which suffice with us for men of seven

or eight hundred a year would be regarded as very mean accommodation

by persons of similar incomes in the States.

I found that Hartford was all alive with trade, and that wages were

high, because there are there two factories for the manufacture of

arms. Colt's pistols come from Hartford, as do also Sharpe's rifles.

Wherever arms can be prepared, or gunpowder; where clothes or

blankets fit for soldiers can be made, or tents or standards, or

things appertaining in any way to warfare, there trade was still

brisk. No being is more costly in his requirements than a soldier,

and no soldier so costly as the American. He must eat and drink of

the best, and have good boots and warm bedding, and good shelter.

There were during the Christmas of 1861 above half a million of

soldiers so to be provided,--the President, in his message made in

December to Congress, declared the number to be above six hundred

thousand--and therefore in such places as Hartford trade was very

brisk. I went over the rifle factory, and was shown everything, but

I do not know that I brought away much with me that was worth any

reader's attention. The best of rifles, I have no doubt, were being

made with the greatest rapidity, and all were sent to the army as

soon as finished. I saw some murderous-looking weapons, with swords

attached to them instead of bayonets, but have since been told

by soldiers that the old-fashioned bayonet is thought to be more

serviceable.

Immediately on my arrival in Boston I heard that Mr. Emerson was

going to lecture at the Tremont Hall on the subject of the war, and

I resolved to go and hear him. I was acquainted with Mr. Emerson,

and by reputation knew him well. Among us in England he is regarded

as transcendental, and perhaps even as mystic in his philosophy. His

"Representative Men" is the work by which he is best known on our

side of the water, and I have heard some readers declare that they

could not quite understand Mr. Emerson's "Representative Men." For

myself, I confess that I had broken down over some portions of that

book. Since I had become acquainted with him I had read others of

his writings, especially his book on England, and had found that he

improved greatly on acquaintance. I think that he has confined his

mysticism to the book above named. In conversation he is very clear,

and by no means above the small practical things of the world. He

would, I fancy, know as well what interest he ought to receive for

his money as though he were no philosopher; and I am inclined to

think that if he held land he would make his hay while the sun shone,

as might any common farmer. Before I had met Mr. Emerson, when my

idea of him was formed simply on the "Representative Men," I should

have thought that a lecture from him on the war would have taken

his hearers all among the clouds. As it was, I still had my doubts,

and was inclined to fear that a subject which could only be handled

usefully at such a time before a large audience by a combination of

common sense, high principles, and eloquence, would hardly be safe in

Mr. Emerson's hands. I did not doubt the high principles, but feared

much that there would be a lack of common sense. So many have talked

on that subject, and have shown so great a lack of common sense! As

to the eloquence, that might be there, or might not.

Mr. Emerson is a Massachusetts man, very well known in Boston, and

a great crowd was collected to hear him. I suppose there were some

three thousand persons in the room. I confess that when he took his

place before us my prejudices were against him. The matter in hand

required no philosophy. It required common sense, and the very best

of common sense. It demanded that he should be impassioned, for of

what interest can any address be on a matter of public politics

without passion? But it demanded that the passion should be winnowed,

and free from all rhodomontade. I fancied what might be said on

such a subject as to that overlauded star-spangled banner, and how

the star-spangled flag would look when wrapped in a mist of mystic

Platonism.

But from the beginning to the end there was nothing mystic--no

Platonism; and, if I remember rightly, the star-spangled banner

was altogether omitted. To the national eagle he did allude. "Your

American eagle," he said, "is very well. Protect it here and abroad.

But beware of the American peacock." He gave an account of the war

from the beginning, showing how it had arisen, and how it had been

conducted; and he did so with admirable simplicity and truth. He

thought the North were right about the war; and as I thought so

also, I was not called upon to disagree with him. He was terse and

perspicuous in his sentences, practical in his advice, and, above all

things, true in what he said to his audience of themselves. They who

know America will understand how hard it is for a public man in the

States to practise such truth in his addresses. Fluid compliments and

high-flown national eulogium are expected. In this instance none were

forthcoming. The North had risen with patriotism to make this effort,

and it was now warned that in doing so it was simply doing its

national duty. And then came the subject of slavery. I had been told

that Mr. Emerson was an abolitionist, and knew that I must disagree

with him on that head, if on no other. To me it has always seemed

that to mix up the question of general abolition with this war must

be the work of a man too ignorant to understand the real subject of

the war, or too false to his country to regard it. Throughout the

whole lecture I was waiting for Mr. Emerson's abolition doctrine,

but no abolition doctrine came. The words abolition and compensation

were mentioned, and then there was an end of the subject. If Mr.

Emerson be an abolitionist he expressed his views very mildly on that

occasion. On the whole the lecture was excellent, and that little

advice about the peacock was in itself worth an hour's attention.

That practice of lecturing is "quite an institution" in the States.

So it is in England, my readers will say. But in England it is done

in a different way, with a different object and with much less of

result. With us, if I am not mistaken, lectures are mostly given

gratuitously by the lecturer. They are got up here and there with

some philanthropical object, and in the hope that an hour at the

disposal of young men and women may be rescued from idleness. The

subjects chosen are social, literary, philanthropic, romantic,

geographical, scientific, religious,--anything rather than political.

The lecture-rooms are not usually filled to overflowing, and there is

often a question whether the real good achieved is worth the trouble

taken. The most popular lectures are given by big people, whose

presence is likely to be attractive; and the whole thing, I fear we

must confess, is not pre-eminently successful. In the Northern States

of America the matter stands on a very different footing. Lectures

there are more popular than either theatres or concerts. Enormous

halls are built for them. Tickets for long courses are taken with

avidity. Very large sums are paid to popular lecturers, so that the

profession is lucrative,--more so, I am given to understand, than

is the cognate profession of literature. The whole thing is done in

great style. Music is introduced. The lecturer stands on a large

raised platform, on which sit around him the bald and hoary-headed

and superlatively wise. Ladies come in large numbers; especially

those who aspire to soar above the frivolities of the world. Politics

is the subject most popular, and most general. The men and women of

Boston could no more do without their lectures, than those of Paris

could without their theatres. It is the decorous diversion of the

best ordered of her citizens. The fast young men go to clubs, and the

fast young women to dances, as fast young men and women do in other

places that are wicked; but lecturing is the favourite diversion of

the steady-minded Bostonian. After all, I do not know that the result

is very good. It does not seem that much will be gained by such

lectures on either side of the Atlantic,--except that respectable

killing of an evening which might otherwise be killed less

respectably. It is but an industrious idleness, an attempt at a royal

road to information, that habit of attending lectures. Let any man or

woman say what he has brought away from any such attendance. It is

attractive, that idea of being studious without any of the labour

of study; but I fear it is illusive. If an evening can be so passed

without ennui, I believe that that may be regarded as the best result

to be gained. But then it so often happens that the evening is not

passed without ennui! Of course in saying this, I am not alluding

to lectures given in special places as a course of special study.

Medical lectures, no doubt, are a necessary part of medical

education. As many as two or three thousand often attend these

popular lectures in Boston, but I do not know whether on that account

the popular subjects are much better understood. Nevertheless I

resolved to hear more, hoping that I might in that way teach myself

to understand what were the popular politics in New England. Whether

or no I may have learned this in any other way I do not perhaps know;

but at any rate I did not learn it in this way.

The next lecture which I attended was also given in the Tremont Hall,

and on this occasion also the subject of the war was to be treated.

The special treachery of the rebels was, I think, the matter to be

taken in hand. On this occasion also the room was full, and my hopes

of a pleasant hour ran high. For some fifteen minutes I listened, and

I am bound to say that the gentleman discoursed in excellent English.

He was master of that wonderful fluency which is peculiarly the gift

of an American. He went on from one sentence to another with rhythmic

tones and unerring pronunciation. He never faltered, never repeated

his words, never fell into those vile half-muttered hems and haws

by which an Englishman in such a position so generally betrays his

timidity. But during the whole time of my remaining in the room he

did not give expression to a single thought. He went on from one soft

platitude to another, and uttered words from which I would defy any

one of his audience to carry away with them anything. And yet it

seemed to me that his audience was satisfied. I was not satisfied,

and managed to escape out of the room.

The next lecturer to whom I listened was Mr. Everett. Mr. Everett's

reputation as an orator is very great, and I was especially anxious

to hear him. I had long since known that his power of delivery was

very marvellous; that his tones, elocution, and action were all

great; and that he was able to command the minds and sympathies

of his audience in a remarkable manner. His subject also was the

war;--or rather the causes of the war, and its qualification. Had the

North given to the South cause of provocation? Had the South been

fair and honest in its dealings to the North? Had any compromise been

possible by which the war might have been avoided, and the rights and

dignity of the North preserved? Seeing that Mr. Everett is a Northern

man and was lecturing to a Boston audience, one knew well how these

questions would be answered, but the manner of the answering would be

everything. This lecture was given at Roxboro', one of the suburbs

of Boston. So I went out to Roxboro' with a party, and found myself

honoured by being placed on the platform among the bald-headed ones

and the superlatively wise. This privilege is naturally gratifying,

but it entails on him who is so gratified the inconvenience of

sitting at the lecturer's back, whereas it is perhaps better for the

listener to be before his face.

I could not but be amused by one little scenic incident. When we all

went upon the platform, some one proposed that the clergymen should

lead the way out of the waiting-room in which we bald-headed ones and

superlatively wise were assembled. But to this the manager of the

affair demurred. He wanted the clergymen for a purpose, he said. And

so the profane ones led the way, and the clergymen, of whom there

might be some six or seven, clustered in around the lecturer at last.

Early in his discourse Mr. Everett told us what it was that the

country needed at this period of her trial. Patriotism, courage, the

bravery of the men, the good wishes of the women, the self-denial

of all,--"and," continued the lecturer, turning to his immediate

neighbours, "the prayers of these holy men whom I see around me." It

had not been for nothing that the clergymen were detained.

Mr. Everett lectures without any book or paper before him, and

continues from first to last as though the words came from him on the

spur of the moment. It is known, however, that it is his practice

to prepare his orations with great care and commit them entirely to

memory, as does an actor. Indeed he repeats the same lecture over and

over again, I am told, without the change of a word or of an action.

I did not like Mr. Everett's lecture. I did not like what he said,

or the seeming spirit in which it was framed. But I am bound to

admit that his power of oratory is very wonderful. Those among his

countrymen who have criticised his manner in my hearing have said

that he is too florid, that there is an affectation in the motion

of his hands, and that the intended pathos of his voice sometimes

approaches too near the precipice over which the fall is so deep and

rapid, and at the bottom of which lies absolute ridicule. Judging for

myself, I did not find it so. My position for seeing was not good,

but my ear was not offended. Critics also should bear in mind that

an orator does not speak chiefly to them or for their approval. He

who writes, or speaks, or sings for thousands, must write, speak, or

sing as those thousands would have him. That to a dainty connoisseur

will be false music, which to the general ear shall be accounted as

the perfection of harmony. An eloquence altogether suited to the

fastidious and hypercritical, would probably fail to carry off the

hearts and interest the sympathies of the young and eager. As regards

manners, tone, and choice of words, I think that the oratory of Mr.

Everett places him very high. His skill in his work is perfect. He

never falls back upon a word. He never repeats himself. His voice is

always perfectly under command. As for hesitation or timidity, the

days for those failings have long passed by with him. When he makes

a point, he makes it well, and drives it home to the intelligence of

every one before him. Even that appeal to the holy men around him

sounded well,--or would have done so had I not been present at that

little arrangement in the anteroom. On the audience at large it was

manifestly effective.

But nevertheless the lecture gave me but a poor idea of Mr. Everett

as a politician, though it made me regard him highly as an orator.

It was impossible not to perceive that he was anxious to utter the

sentiments of the audience rather than his own;--that he was making

himself an echo, a powerful and harmonious echo of what he conceived

to be public opinion in Boston at that moment;--that he was neither

leading nor teaching the people before him, but allowing himself to

be led by them, so that he might best play his present part for their

delectation. He was neither bold nor honest, as Emerson had been, and

I could not but feel that every tyro of a politician before him would

thus recognize his want of boldness and of honesty. As a statesman,

or as a critic of statecraft and of other statesmen, he is wanting

in backbone. For many years Mr. Everett has been not even inimical

to southern politics and southern courses, nor was he among those

who, during the last eight years previous to Mr. Lincoln's election,

fought the battle for northern principles. I do not say that on this

account he is now false to advocate the war. But he cannot carry

men with him when, at his age, he advocates it by arguments opposed

to the tenour of his long political life. His abuse of the South

and of southern ideas was as virulent as might be that of a young

lad now beginning his political career, or of one who had through

life advocated abolition principles. He heaped reproaches on poor

Virginia, whose position as the chief of the border States has given

to her hardly the possibility of avoiding a Scylla of ruin on the

one side, or a Charybdis of rebellion on the other. When he spoke as

he did of Virginia, ridiculing the idea of her sacred soil, even I,

Englishman as I am, could not but think of Washington, of Jefferson,

of Randolph, and of Madison. He should not have spoken of Virginia

as he did speak; for no man could have known better Virginia's

difficulties. But Virginia was at a discount in Boston, and Mr.

Everett was speaking to a Boston audience. And then he referred to

England and to Europe. Mr. Everett has been minister to England, and

knows the people. He is a student of history, and must, I think,

know that England's career has not been unhappy or unprosperous.

But England also was at a discount in Boston, and Mr. Everett was

speaking to a Boston audience. They are sending us their advice

across the water, said Mr. Everett. And what is their advice to

us? that we should come down from the high place we have built for

ourselves, and be even as they are. They screech at us from the low

depths in which they are wallowing in their misery, and call on us to

join them in their wretchedness. I am not quoting Mr. Everett's very

words, for I have not them by me; but I am not making them stronger,

nor so strong as he made them. As I thought of Mr. Everett's

reputation, and of his years of study,--of his long political life

and unsurpassed sources of information,--I could not but grieve

heartily when I heard such words fall from him. I could not but

ask myself whether it were impossible that under the present

circumstances of her constitution this great nation of America should

produce an honest, high-minded statesman. When Lincoln and Hamlin,

the existing President and Vice-President of the States, were in 1860

as yet but the candidates of the republican party, Bell and Everett

also were the candidates of the old whig, conservative party. Their

express theory was this,--that the question of slavery should

not be touched. Their purpose was to crush agitation and restore

harmony by an impartial balance between the North and South: a fine

purpose,--the finest of all purposes, had it been practicable. But

such a course of compromise was now at a discount in Boston, and

Mr. Everett was speaking to a Boston audience. As an orator, Mr.

Everett's excellence is, I think, not to be questioned; but as a

politician I cannot give him a high rank.

After that I heard Mr. Wendell Phillips. Of him, too, as an orator

all the world of Massachusetts speaks with great admiration, and I

have no doubt so speaks with justice. He is, however, known as the

hottest and most impassioned advocate of abolition. Not many months

since the cause of abolition, as advocated by him, was so unpopular

in Boston, that Mr. Phillips was compelled to address his audience

surrounded by a guard of policemen. Of this gentleman, I may at any

rate say that he is consistent, devoted, and disinterested. He is an

abolitionist by profession, and seeks to find in every turn of the

tide of politics some stream on which he may bring himself nearer

to his object. In the old days, previous to the selection of Mr.

Lincoln, in days so old that they are now nearly eighteen months

past, Mr. Phillips was an anti-Union man. He advocated strongly the

disseverance of the Union, so that the country to which he belonged

might have hands clean from the taint of slavery. He had probably

acknowledged to himself, that while the North and South were bound

together no hope existed of emancipation, but that if the North stood

alone the South would become too weak to foster and keep alive the

"social institution." In which, if such were his opinions, I am

inclined to agree with him. But now he is all for the Union, thinking

that a victorious North can compel the immediate emancipation of

southern slaves. As to which I beg to say that I am bold to differ

from Mr. Phillips altogether.

It soon became evident to me that Mr. Phillips was unwell, and

lecturing at a disadvantage. His manner was clearly that of an

accustomed orator, but his voice was weak, and he was not up to

the effect which he attempted to make. His hearers were impatient,

repeatedly calling upon him to speak out, and on that account I tried

hard to feel kindly towards him and his lecture. But I must confess

that I failed. To me it seemed that the doctrine he preached was one

of rapine, bloodshed, and social destruction. He would call upon the

Government and upon Congress to enfranchise the slaves at once,--now

during the war,--so that the Southern power might be destroyed by

a concurrence of misfortunes. And he would do so at once, on the

spur of the moment, fearing lest the South should be before him,

and themselves emancipate their own bondsmen. I have sometimes

thought that there is no being so venomous, so bloodthirsty as a

professed philanthropist; and that when the philanthropist's ardour

lies negro-wards, it then assumes the deepest die of venom and

bloodthirstiness. There are four millions of slaves in the southern

States, none of whom have any capacity for self-maintenance or

self-control. Four millions of slaves, with the necessities of

children, with the passions of men, and the ignorance of savages!

And Mr. Phillips would emancipate these at a blow; would, were it

possible for him to do so, set them loose upon the soil to tear

their masters, destroy each other, and make such a hell upon the

earth as has never even yet come from the uncontrolled passions

and unsatisfied wants of men. But Congress cannot do this. All

the members of Congress put together cannot, according to the

constitution of the United States, emancipate a single slave in South

Carolina; not if they were all unanimous. No emancipation in a Slave

State can come otherwise than by the legislative enactment of that

State. But it was then thought that in this coming winter of 1860-61

the action of Congress might be set aside. The North possessed an

enormous army under the control of the President. The South was in

rebellion, and the President could pronounce, and the army perhaps

enforce, the confiscation of all property held in slaves. If any who

held them were not disloyal, the question of compensation might be

settled afterwards. How those four million slaves should live, and

how white men should live among them, in some States or parts of

States not equal to the blacks in number;--as to that Mr. Phillips

did not give us his opinion.

And Mr. Phillips also could not keep his tongue away from the

abominations of Englishmen and the miraculous powers of his own

countrymen. It was on this occasion that he told us more than

once how Yankees carried brains in their fingers, whereas "common

people"--alluding by that name to Europeans--had them only, if at

all, inside their brain-pans. And then he informed us that Lord

Palmerston had always hated America. Among the Radicals there might

be one or two who understood and valued the institutions of America,

but it was a well-known fact that Lord Palmerston was hostile to

the country. Nothing but hidden enmity,--enmity hidden or not

hidden,--could be expected from England. That the people of Boston,

or of Massachusetts, or of the North generally, should feel sore

against England is to me intelligible. I know how the minds of men

are moved in masses to certain feelings, and that it ever must be so.

Men in common talk are not bound to weigh their words, to think, and

speculate on their results, and be sure of the premises on which

their thoughts are founded. But it is different with a man who rises

before two or three thousand of his countrymen to teach and instruct

them. After that I heard no more political lectures in Boston.

Of course I visited Bunker's Hill, and went to Lexington and Concord.

From the top of the monument on Bunker's Hill there is a fine view of

Boston Harbour, and seen from thence the harbour is picturesque. The

mouth is crowded with islands and jutting necks and promontories;

and though the shores are in no place rich enough to make the

scenery grand, the general effect is good. The monument, however,

is so constructed that one can hardly get a view through the

windows at the top of it, and there is no outside gallery round it.

Immediately below the monument is a marble figure of Major Warren,

who fell there,--not from the top of the monument, as some one

was led to believe when informed that on that spot the Major had

fallen. Bunker's Hill, which is little more than a mound, is at

Charleston,--a dull, populous, respectable, and very unattractive

suburb of Boston.

Bunker's Hill has obtained a considerable name, and is accounted

great in the annals of American history. In England we have all

heard of Bunker's Hill, and some of us dislike the sound as much as

Frenchmen do that of Waterloo. In the States men talk of Bunker's

Hill as we may, perhaps, talk of Agincourt and such favourite fields.

But, after all, little was done at Bunker's Hill, and, as far as

I can learn, no victory was gained there by either party. The road

from Boston to the town of Concord, on which stands the village of

Lexington, is the true scene of the earliest and greatest deeds of

the men of Boston. The monument at Bunker's Hill stands high and

commands attention, while those at Lexington and Concord are very

lowly and command no attention. But it is of that road and what was

done on it that Massachusetts should be proud. When the colonists

first began to feel that they were oppressed, and a half resolve was

made to resist that oppression by force, they began to collect a

few arms and some gunpowder at Concord, a small town about eighteen

miles from Boston. Of this preparation the English Governor received

tidings, and determined to send a party of soldiers to seize the

arms. This he endeavoured to do secretly; but he was too closely

watched, and word was sent down over the waters by which Boston

was then surrounded that the colonists might be prepared for the

soldiers. At that time Boston Neck, as it was and is still called,

was the only connection between the town and the main land, and

the road over Boston Neck did not lead to Concord. Boats therefore

were necessarily used, and there was some difficulty in getting the

soldiers to the nearest point. They made their way, however, to

the road, and continued their route as far as Lexington without

interruption. Here, however, they were attacked, and the first blood

of that war was shed. They shot three or four of the--rebels, I

suppose I should in strict language call them, and then proceeded

on to Concord. But at Concord they were stopped and repulsed, and

along the road back from Concord to Lexington they were driven with

slaughter and dismay. And thus the rebellion was commenced which led

to the establishment of a people which, let us Englishmen say and

think what we may of them at this present moment, has made itself one

of the five great nations of the earth, and has enabled us to boast

that the two out of the five who enjoy the greatest liberty and

the widest prosperity, speak the English language and are known by

English names. For all that has come and is like to come, I say

again, long may that honour remain. I could not but feel that that

road from Boston to Concord deserves a name in the world's history

greater, perhaps, than has yet been given to it.

Concord is at present to be noted as the residence of Mr. Emerson and

of Mr. Hawthorne, two of those many men of letters of whose presence

Boston and its neighbourhood have reason to be proud. Of Mr. Emerson

I have already spoken. The author of the "Scarlet Letter" I regard

as certainly the first of American novelists. I know what men will

say of Mr. Cooper,--and I also am an admirer of Cooper's novels. But

I cannot think that Mr. Cooper's powers were equal to those of Mr.

Hawthorne, though his mode of thought may have been more genial, and

his choice of subjects more attractive in their day. In point of

imagination, which, after all, is the novelist's greatest gift, I

hardly know any living author who can be accounted superior to Mr.

Hawthorne.

Very much has, undoubtedly, been done in Boston to carry out

that theory of Colonel Newcome's--_Emollit mores_, by which the

Colonel meant to signify his opinion that a competent knowledge of

reading, writing, and arithmetic, with a taste for enjoying those

accomplishments, goes very far towards the making of a man, and will

by no means mar a gentleman. In Boston nearly every man, woman, and

child has had his or her manners so far softened; and though they may

still occasionally be somewhat rough to the outer touch, the inward

effect is plainly visible. With us, especially among our agricultural

population, the absence of that inner softening is as visible.

I went to see a public library in the city, which, if not founded by

Mr. Bates whose name is so well known in London as connected with the

house of Messrs. Baring, has been greatly enriched by him. It is by

his money that it has been enabled to do its work. In this library

there is a certain number of thousands of volumes--a great many

volumes, as there are in most public libraries. There are books of

all classes, from ponderous unreadable folios, of which learned men

know the title-pages, down to the lightest literature. Novels are by

no means eschewed,--are rather, if I understood aright, considered

as one of the staples of the library. From this library any book,

excepting such rare volumes as in all libraries are considered holy,

is given out to any inhabitant of Boston, without any payment, on

presentation of a simple request on a prepared form. In point of

fact, it is a gratuitous circulating library open to all Boston, rich

or poor, young or old. The books seemed in general to be confided

to young children, who came as messengers from their fathers and

mothers, or brothers and sisters. No question whatever is asked,

if the applicant is known or the place of his residence undoubted.

If there be no such knowledge, or there be any doubt as to the

residence, the applicant is questioned, the object being to confine

the use of the library to the _bonâ fide_ inhabitants of the city.

Practically the books are given to those who ask for them, whoever

they may be. Boston contains over 200,000 inhabitants, and all those

200,000 are entitled to them. Some twenty men and women are kept

employed from morning to night in carrying on this circulating

library; and there is, moreover, attached to the establishment a

large reading-room supplied with papers and magazines, open to the

public of Boston on the same terms.

Of course I asked whether a great many of the books were not lost,

stolen, and destroyed; and of course I was told that there were no

losses, no thefts, and no destruction. As to thefts, the librarian

did not seem to think that any instance of such an occurrence could

be found. Among the poorer classes a book might sometimes be lost

when they were changing their lodgings, but anything so lost was

more than replaced by the fines. A book is taken out for a week,

and if not brought back at the end of that week, when the loan can

be renewed if the reader wishes, a fine, I think of two cents, is

incurred. The children, when too late with the books, bring in the

two cents as a matter of course, and the sum so collected fully

replaces all losses. It was all _couleur de rose_; the librarianesses

looked very pretty and learned, and, if I remember aright, mostly

wore spectacles; the head librarian was enthusiastic; the nice

instructive books were properly dogs-eared; my own productions were

in enormous demand; the call for books over the counter was brisk,

and the reading-room was full of readers.

It has, I dare say, occurred to other travellers to remark that the

proceedings at such institutions, when visited by them on their

travels, are always rose coloured. It is natural that the bright side

should be shown to the visitor. It may be that many books are called

for and returned unread, that many of those taken out are so taken by

persons who ought to pay for their novels at circulating libraries,

that the librarian and librarianesses get very tired of their long

hours of attendance,--for I found that they were very long;--and

that many idlers warm themselves in that reading-room: nevertheless

the fact remains,--the library is public to all the men and women in

Boston, and books are given out without payment to all who may choose

to ask for them. Why should not the great Mr. Mudie emulate Mr.

Bates, and open a library in London on the same system?

The librarian took me into one special room, of which he himself kept

the key, to show me a present which the library had received from the

English Government. The room was filled with volumes of two sizes,

all bound alike, containing descriptions and drawings of all the

patents taken out in England. According to this librarian such a work

would be invaluable as to American patents; but he conceived that the

subject had become too confused to render any such an undertaking

possible. "I never allow a single volume to be used for a moment

without the presence of myself or one of my assistants," said the

librarian; and then he explained to me, when I asked him why he was

so particular, that the drawings would, as a matter of course, be cut

out and stolen if he omitted his care. "But they may be copied," I

said. "Yes; but if Jones merely copies one, Smith may come after him

and copy it also. Jones will probably desire to hinder Smith from

having any evidence of such a patent." As to the ordinary borrowing

and returning of books, the poorest labourer's child in Boston might

be trusted as honest; but when a question of trade came up, of

commercial competition, then the librarian was bound to bethink

himself that his countrymen are very smart. "I hope," said the

librarian, "you will let them know in England how grateful we are for

their present." And I hereby execute that librarian's commission.

I shall always look back to social life in Boston with great

pleasure. I met there many men and women whom to know is a

distinction, and with whom to be intimate is a great delight. It was

a Puritan city, in which strict old Roundhead sentiments and laws

used to prevail; but now-a-days ginger is hot in the mouth there, and

in spite of the war there were cakes and ale. There was a law passed

in Massachusetts in the old days that any girl should be fined and

imprisoned who allowed a young man to kiss her. That law has now, I

think, fallen into abeyance, and such matters are regulated in Boston

much as they are in other large towns further eastward. It still,

I conceive, calls itself a Puritan city, but it has divested its

Puritanism of austerity, and clings rather to the politics and public

bearing of its old fathers than to their social manners and pristine

severity of intercourse. The young girls are, no doubt, much more

comfortable under the new dispensation,--and the elderly men also,

as I fancy. Sunday, as regards the outer streets, is sabbatical. But

Sunday evenings within doors I always found to be what my friends in

that country call "quite a good time." It is not the thing in Boston

to smoke in the streets during the day; but the wisest, the sagest,

and the most holy,--even those holy men whom the lecturer saw around

him,--seldom refuse a cigar in the dining-room as soon as the ladies

have gone. Perhaps even the wicked weed would make its appearance

before that sad eclipse, thereby postponing, or perhaps absolutely

annihilating, the melancholy period of widowhood to both parties,

and would light itself under the very eyes of those who in sterner

cities will lend no countenance to such lightings. Ah me, it was very

pleasant! I confess I like this abandonment of the stricter rules of

the more decorous world. I fear that there is within me an aptitude

to the milder debaucheries which makes such deviations pleasant. I

like to drink and I like to smoke, but I do not like to turn women

out of the room. Then comes the question whether one can have all

that one likes together. In some small circles in New England I found

people simple enough to fancy that they could. In Massachusetts the

Maine Liquor Law is still the law of the land, but, like that other

law to which I have alluded, it has fallen very much out of use. At

any rate it had not reached the houses of the gentlemen with whom I

had the pleasure of making acquaintance. But here I must guard myself

from being misunderstood. I saw but one drunken man through all New

England, and he was very respectable. He was, however, so uncommonly

drunk that he might be allowed to count for two or three. The

Puritans of Boston are, of course, simple in their habits and simple

in their expenses. Champagne and canvas-back ducks I found to be the

provisions most in vogue among those who desired to adhere closely to

the manners of their forefathers. Upon the whole I found the ways of

life which had been brought over in the "Mayflower" from the stern

sects of England, and preserved through the revolutionary war for

liberty, to be very pleasant ways, and I made up my mind that a

Yankee Puritan can be an uncommonly pleasant fellow. I wish that some

of them did not dine so early; for when a man sits down at half-past

two, that keeping up of the after-dinner recreations till bedtime

becomes hard work.

In Boston the houses are very spacious and excellent, and they are

always furnished with those luxuries which it is so difficult to

introduce into an old house. They have hot and cold water pipes

into every room, and baths attached to the bed-chambers. It is not

only that comfort is increased by such arrangements, but that much

labour is saved. In an old English house it will occupy a servant

the best part of the day to carry water up and down for a large

family. Everything also is spacious, commodious, and well lighted.

I certainly think that in house building the Americans have gone

beyond us, for even our new houses are not commodious as are theirs.

One practice which they have in their cities would hardly suit our

limited London spaces. When the body of the house is built, they

throw out the dining-room behind. It stands alone, as it were, with

no other chamber above it, and removed from the rest of the house.

It is consequently behind the double drawing-rooms which form the

ground-floor, and is approached from them, and also from the back of

the hall. The second entrance to the dining-room is thus near the top

of the kitchen stairs, which no doubt is its proper position. The

whole of the upper part of the house is thus kept for the private

uses of the family. To me this plan of building recommended itself as

being very commodious.

I found the spirit for the war quite as hot at Boston now (in

November), if not hotter than it was when I was there ten weeks

earlier; and I found also, to my grief, that the feeling against

England was as strong. I can easily understand how difficult it must

have been, and still must be, to Englishmen at home to understand

this, and see how it has come to pass. It has not arisen, as I think,

from the old jealousy of England. It has not sprung from that source

which for years has induced certain newspapers, especially the "New

York Herald" to vilify England. I do not think that the men of New

England have ever been, as regards this matter, in the same boat with

the "New York Herald." But when this war between the North and South

first broke out, even before there was as yet a war, the Northern men

had taught themselves to expect what they called British sympathy,

meaning British encouragement. They regarded, and properly regarded,

the action of the South as a rebellion, and said among themselves

that so staid and conservative a nation as Great Britain would surely

countenance them in quelling rebels. If not,--should it come to pass

that Great Britain should show no such countenance and sympathy for

Northern law, if Great Britain did not respond to her friend as

she was expected to respond, then it would appear that Cotton was

king, at least in British eyes. The war did come, and Great Britain

regarded the two parties as belligerents, standing, as far as she was

concerned, on equal grounds. This it was that first gave rise to that

fretful anger against England which has gone so far towards ruining

the northern cause. We know how such passions are swelled by being

ventilated, and how they are communicated from mind to mind till they

become national. Politicians--American politicians I here mean--have

their own future careers ever before their eyes, and are driven

to make capital where they can. Hence it is that such men as Mr.

Seward in the cabinet, and Mr. Everett out of it, can reconcile it

to themselves to speak as they have done of England. It was but the

other day that Mr. Everett spoke in one of his orations of the hope

that still existed that the flag of the United States might still

float over the whole continent of North America. What would he say of

an English statesman who should speak of putting up the Union Jack

on the State House in Boston? Such words tell for the moment on the

hearers, and help to gain some slight popularity; but they tell for

more than a moment on those who read them and remember them.

And then came the capture of Messrs. Slidell and Mason. I was at

Boston when those men were taken out of the "Trent" by the "San

Jacinto," and brought to Fort Warren in Boston Harbour. Captain

Wilkes was the officer who had made the capture, and he immediately

was recognized as a hero. He was invited to banquets and fêted.

Speeches were made to him as speeches are commonly made to high

officers who come home, after many perils, victorious from the wars.

His health was drunk with great applause, and thanks were voted to

him by one of the Houses of Congress. It was said that a sword was

to be given to him, but I do not think that the gift was consummated.

Should it not have been a policeman's truncheon? Had he at the

best done anything beyond a policeman's work? Of Captain Wilkes

no one would complain for doing policeman's duty. If his country

were satisfied with the manner in which he did it, England, if she

quarrelled at all, would not quarrel with him. It may now and again

become the duty of a brave officer to do work of so low a calibre. It

is a pity that an ambitious sailor should find himself told off for

so mean a task, but the world would know that it is not his fault.

No one could blame Captain Wilkes for acting policeman on the seas.

But who ever before heard of giving a man glory for achievements so

little glorious? How Captain Wilkes must have blushed when those

speeches were made to him, when that talk about the sword came up,

when the thanks arrived to him from Congress! An officer receives

his country's thanks when he has been in great peril, and has borne

himself gallantly through his danger; when he has endured the brunt

of war, and come through it with victory; when he has exposed himself

on behalf of his country and singed his epaulets with an enemy's

fire. Captain Wilkes tapped a merchantman on the shoulder in the high

seas, and told him that his passengers were wanted. In doing this he

showed no lack of spirit, for it might be his duty; but where was his

spirit when he submitted to be thanked for such work?

And then there arose a clamour of justification among the lawyers;

judges and ex-judges flew to Wheaton, Phillimore, and Lord Stowell.

Before twenty-four hours were over, every man and every woman in

Boston were armed with precedents. Then there was the burning of the

"Caroline." England had improperly burned the "Caroline" on Lake

Erie, or rather in one of the American ports on Lake Erie, and had

then begged pardon. If the States had been wrong, they would beg

pardon; but whether wrong or right, they would not give up Slidell

and Mason. But the lawyers soon waxed stronger. The men were

manifestly ambassadors, and as such contraband of war. Wilkes was

quite right, only he should have seized the vessel also. He was quite

right, for though Slidell and Mason might not be ambassadors, they

were undoubtedly carrying despatches. In a few hours there began to

be a doubt whether the men could be ambassadors, because if called

ambassadors, then the power that sent the embassy must be presumed to

be recognized. That Captain Wilkes had taken no despatches was true;

but the Captain suggested a way out of this difficulty by declaring

that he had regarded the two men themselves as an incarnated

embodiment of despatches. At any rate, they were clearly contraband

of war. They were going to do an injury to the North. It was pretty

to hear the charming women of Boston, as they became learned in the

law of nations: "Wheaton is quite clear about it," one young girl

said to me. It was the first I had ever heard of Wheaton, and so

far was obliged to knock under. All the world, ladies and lawyers,

expressed the utmost confidence in the justice of the seizure, but

it was clear that all the world was in a state of the profoundest

nervous anxiety on the subject. To me it seemed to be the most

suicidal act that any party in a life-and-death struggle ever

committed. All Americans on both sides had felt, from the beginning

of the war, that any assistance given by England to one or the other

would turn the scale. The Government of Mr. Lincoln must have learned

by this time that England was at least true in her neutrality; that

no desire for cotton would compel her to give aid to the South as

long as she herself was not ill-treated by the North. But it seemed

as though Mr. Seward, the President's prime minister, had no better

work on hand than that of showing in every way his indifference as to

courtesy with England. Insults offered to England would, he seemed to

think, strengthen his hands. He would let England know that he did

not care for her. When our minister, Lord Lyons, appealed to him

regarding the suspension of the habeas corpus, Mr. Seward not only

answered him with insolence, but instantly published his answer

in the papers. He instituted a system of passports, especially

constructed so as to incommode Englishmen proceeding from the States

across the Atlantic. He resolved to make every Englishman in America

feel himself in some way punished because England had not assisted

the North. And now came the arrest of Slidell and Mason out of

an English mail-steamer; and Mr. Seward took care to let it be

understood that, happen what might, those two men should not be given

up.

Nothing during all this time astonished me so much as the estimation

in which Mr. Seward was then held by his own party. It is, perhaps,

the worst defect in the Constitution of the States, that no

incapacity on the part of a minister, no amount of condemnation

expressed against him by the people or by Congress, can put him out

of office during the term of the existing Presidency. The President

can dismiss him; but it generally happens that the President is

brought in on a "platform," which has already nominated for him his

Cabinet as thoroughly as they have nominated him. Mr. Seward ran Mr.

Lincoln very hard for the position of candidate for the Presidency

on the Republican interest. On the second voting of the Republican

delegates at the Convention at Chicago, Mr. Seward polled 184 to Mr.

Lincoln's 181. But as a clear half of the total number of votes was

necessary--that is 233 out of 465--there was necessarily a third

polling, and Mr. Lincoln won the day. On that occasion Mr. Chase and

Mr. Cameron, both of whom became members of Mr. Lincoln's Cabinet,

were also candidates for the White House on the Republican side.

I mention this here to show, that though the President can in fact

dismiss his Ministers, he is in a great manner bound to them, and

that a Minister in Mr. Seward's position is hardly to be dismissed.

But from the 1st of November, 1861, till the day on which I left

the States, I do not think that I heard a good word spoken of Mr.

Seward as a Minister even by one of his own party. The Radical

or Abolitionist Republicans all abused him. The Conservative or

Anti-abolition Republicans, to whose party he would consider himself

as belonging, spoke of him as a mistake. He had been prominent as

Senator from New York, and had been Governor of the State of New

York, but had none of the aptitudes of a statesman. He was there, and

it was a pity. He was not so bad as Mr. Cameron, the Minister for

War; that was the best his own party could say for him, even in his

own State of New York. As to the Democrats, their language respecting

him was as harsh as any that I have heard used towards the Southern

leaders. He seemed to have no friend, no one who trusted him;--and

yet he was the President's chief minister, and seemed to have in

his own hands the power of mismanaging all foreign relations as he

pleased. But, in truth, the States of America, great as they are, and

much as they have done, have not produced Statesmen. That theory of

governing by the little men rather than by the great, has not been

found to answer, and such follies as those of Mr. Seward have been

the consequence.

At Boston, and indeed elsewhere, I found that there was even

then,--at the time of the capture of Mason and Slidell,--no true

conception of the neutrality of England with reference to the two

parties. When any argument was made, showing that England who had

carried those messengers from the South, would undoubtedly have also

carried messengers from the North, the answer always was--"But the

Southerners are all rebels. Will England regard us who are by treaty

her friend, as she does a people that is in rebellion against its

own government?" That was the old story over again, and as it was

a very long story, it was hardly of use to go back through all its

details. But the fact was that unless there had been such absolute

neutrality--such equality between the parties in the eyes of

England--even Captain Wilkes would not have thought of stopping

the "Trent," or the Government at Washington of justifying such

a proceeding. And it must be remembered that the Government at

Washington had justified that proceeding. The Secretary of the Navy

had distinctly done so in his official report; and that report had

been submitted to the President and published by his order. It was

because England was neutral between the North and South that Captain

Wilkes claimed to have the right of seizing those two men. It had

been the President's intention, some month or so before this affair,

to send Mr. Everett and other gentlemen over to England with objects

as regards the North, similar to those which had caused the sending

of Slidell and Mason with reference to the South. What would Mr.

Everett have thought had he been refused a passage from Dover to

Calais, because the carrying of him would have been towards the South

a breach of neutrality? It would never have occurred to him that he

could become subject to such stoppage. How should we have been abused

for Southern sympathies had we so acted! We, forsooth, who carry

passengers about the world, from China and Australia, round to Chili

and Peru, who have the charge of the world's passengers and letters,

and as a nation incur out of our pocket annually a loss of some

half-million of pounds sterling for the privilege of doing so, are

to inquire the business of every American traveller before we let

him on board, and be stopped in our work if we take anybody on one

side whose journeyings may be conceived by the other side to be to

them prejudicial! Not on such terms will Englishmen be willing to

spread civilization across the ocean! I do not pretend to understand

Wheaton and Phillimore, or even to have read a single word of any

international law. I have refused to read any such, knowing that it

would only confuse and mislead me. But I have my common sense to

guide me. Two men living in one street, quarrel and shy brickbats at

each other, and make the whole street very uncomfortable. Not only is

no one to interfere with them, but they are to have the privilege of

deciding that their brickbats have the right of way, rather than the

ordinary intercourse of the neighbourhood! If that be national law,

national law must be changed. It might do for some centuries back,

but it cannot do now. Up to this period my sympathies had been

with the North. I thought, and still think, that the North had no

alternative, that the war had been forced upon them, and that they

had gone about their work with patriotic energy. But this stopping of

an English mail-steamer was too much for me.

What will they do in England? was now the question. But for any

knowledge as to that, I had to wait till I reached Washington.

North America — Volume 1 · 第 16 / 20 章