CHAPTER XXXIV

THE GLENWOOD MISSION INN

It is an incontrovertible fact that no great idea ever rests in its own

accomplishment. There are offshoots from it, ideas generated in other

minds entirely different from the original, yet dependent upon it for

life. For instance, which of the Mission fathers had the faintest

conception that in erecting their structures under the adverse

conditions then existing in California, they were practically

originating a new style of architecture; or that in making their crude

and simple chairs, benches and tables they were starting a revolution in

furniture making; or that in caring for and entertaining the few

travelers who happened to pass over _El Camino Real_ they were to

suggest a name, an architectural style, a method of management for the

most unique, and in many respects the most attractive hotel in the

world. For such indeed is the Glenwood Mission Inn, at Riverside,

California, at this present time.

This inn is an honest and just tribute to the influence of the Old

Mission Fathers of California, as necessary to a complete understanding

of the far-reaching power of their work as is _El Camino Real_, the

Mission Play, or the Mission Style of architecture. After listening to

lectures on the work of the Franciscan padres and visiting the Missions

themselves, its owners, Mr. and Mrs. Frank Miller, humanely interested

in the welfare of the Mission Indians, collectors of the handicrafts of

these artistic aborigines, and students of what history tells us of

them, began, some twenty-five years ago, to realize that in the Mission

idea was an ideal for a modern hotel. Slowly the suggestion grew, and as

they discussed it with those whose knowledge enabled them to appreciate

it, the clearer was it formulated, until some ten or a dozen years ago

time seemed ripe for its realization. Arthur B. Benton, one of the

leading architects of Southern California, formulated plans, and the

hotel was erected. Its architecture conforms remarkably to that of the

Missions. On Seventh Street are the arched corridors of San Fernando,

San Juan Capistrano, San Miguel and San Antonio de Padua; inside is an

extensive patio and the automobiles stop close to the Campanile

reproducing the curved pediments of San Gabriel. On the Sixth Street

side is the _fachada_ of Santa Barbara Mission, and over the corner of

Sixth and Orange Streets is the imposing dome of San Carlos Borromeo in

the Carmelo Valley, flanked by buttresses of solid concrete, copies of

those of San Gabriel.

The walls throughout are massive and unbroken by any other lines than

those of doors, windows and eaves, and the roofs are covered with red

tiles. In the Bell Tower a fine chime of bells is placed the playing of

which at noon and sunset recalls the matins and vespers of the

Mission days.

Within the building, the old Mission atmosphere is wonderfully

preserved. In the Cloister Music Room the windows are of rare and

exquisite stained glass, showing St. Cecilia, the seats are cathedral

stalls of carved oak; the rafters are replicas of the wooden beams of

San Miguel, and the balcony is copied from the chancel rail of the same

Mission. Mission sconces, candelabra, paintings, banners, etc., add to

the effect, while the floor is made in squares of oak with mahogany

parquetry to remind the visitor of the square tile pavements found in

several of the old Missions.

Daily--three times--music is called forth from the cathedral organ and

harp, and one may hear music of every type, from the solemn, stately

harmonies of the German choral, the crashing thunders of Bach's fugues

and Passion music, to the light oratorios, and duets and solos of

Pergolesi.

By the side of the Music Room is the Cloistered Walk, divided into

sections, in each of which some distinctive epoch or feature of Mission

history is represented by mural paintings by modern artists of skill and

power. The floor is paved with tiles from one of the abandoned Missions.

[Illustration: TOWER, FLYING BUTTRESSES, ETC., GLENWOOD MISSION INN,

RIVERSIDE.]

[Illustration: ARCHES OVER THE SIDEWALK, GLENWOOD MISSION INN,

RIVERSIDE, CALIF.]

[Illustration: RESIDENCE OF FRED MAIER, LOS ANGELES, CALIF.]

[Illustration: WASHINGTON SCHOOL, VISALIA, CALIF.]

Beyond is the Refectorio, or dining-room of an ancient Mission,

containing a collection of kitchen and dining utensils, some of them

from Moorish times. It has a stone ceiling, groined arches, and harvest

festival windows, which also represent varied characters, scenes,

industries and recreations connected with old Mission life.

Three other special features of the Mission Inn are its wonderful

collection of crosses, of bells, and the Ford paintings. Any one of

these would grace the halls of a national collection of rare and

valuable antiques. Of the crosses it can truthfully be said that they

form the largest and most varied collection in the world, and the bells

have been the subject of several articles in leading magazines.

The Ford paintings are a complete representation of all the Missions and

were made by Henry Chapman Ford, of Santa Barbara, mainly during the

years 1880-1881, though some of them are dated as early as 1875.

The Glenwood Mission Inn proved so popular that in the summer and fall

of 1913 two new wings were added, surrounding a Spanish Court. This

Court has cloisters on two sides and cloistered galleries above, and is

covered with Spanish tile, as it is used for an open air dining-room.

One of the new wings, a room 100 feet long by 30 feet wide, and three

stories high, with coffered ceiling, is a Spanish Art Gallery. Here are

displayed old Spanish pictures and tapestries, many of which were

collected by Mr. Miller personally on his European and Mexican trips.

At the same time the dining-room was enlarged by more than half its

former capacity, one side of it looking out through large French windows

on the cloisters and the court itself. This necessitated the enlargement

of the kitchen which is now thrown open to the observation of the guests

whenever desired.

Taking it all in all, the Glenwood Mission Inn is not only a unique and

delightful hostelry, but a wonderful manifestation of the power of the

Franciscan friars to impress their spirit and life upon the commercial

age of a later and more material civilization.

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