it, in order to keep the coast of Button on board. At half past six
o’clock, the wind coming more contrary, and the tide setting pretty
strong against us, we let go a stream-anchor almost in the midst of the
channel, in the same soundings which we had before, twenty-seven
fathoms, soft ooze; which is a mark of an equal depth in all this part.
The breadth of the straits from the entrance to this first anchorage,
varies from seven to eight, nine and ten miles. The night was very fine.
We supposed there were habitations on this part of Button, because we
saw several fires there. Pangasani appeared much better peopled to us,
if we judge by the great number of fires on every part of it. This isle
is here low, level, and covered with fine trees, and I should not wonder
if it contained spices.
[Sidenote: Traffic with the inhabitants.]
On the 13th, a great many periaguas, with outriggers, surrounded the
ships. The Indians brought us fowls, eggs, bananas, perrokeets and
cockatoes. They desired to be paid in Dutch money, and especially in a
plated coin, which is of the value of two French sous and a half. They
likewise willingly took knives with red handles. These islanders came
from a considerable plantation on the heights of Button, opposite our
anchorage, occupying the skirts of five or six mountains. The land is
there entirely cleared, intersected with ditches, and well planted. The
habitations lay together in villages, or solitary in the midst of
fields, surrounded by hedges. They cultivate rice, maize, potatoes,
yams, and other roots. We have no where eaten better bananas than we got
at this place. Here are likewise abundance of cocoa-nuts, citrons,
mangle-apples, and ananas or pine-apples. All the people are very tawny,
of a short stature, and ugly. Their language, the same as that of the
Molucca isles, is the Malays, and their religion the Mahometan. They
seem to have a great experience in their trade, but are gentle and
honest. They offered us for sale some pieces of coloured but very coarse
cotton. I shewed them some nutmegs and cloves, and asked them to give me
some. They answered that they had some dried in their houses, and that
whenever they wanted any, they went to get it upon Ceram, and in the
neighbourhood of Banda, where the Dutch certainly are not the people to
provide them with it. They told me that a great ship belonging to the
company had passed through the straits about ten days ago.
From sun-rising the wind was weak and contrary, varying from south to S.
W. I set sail at half past ten, with the first of the flood, and we made
many boards without gaining much way. At half past four o’clock in the
afternoon we entered a passage, which is only four miles broad. It is
formed on the side of Button, by a low, but much projecting point, and
leaves to the northward a great bay, in which are three isles. On the
side of Pangasani it is formed by seven or eight little isles or keys,
covered with wood, and lying at most half a quarter of a league from the
coast. In one of our boards we ranged these keys almost within pistol
shot, sounding close to them with fifteen fathoms without finding
bottom. In the channel our soundings were in thirty-five, thirty, and
twenty-seven fathoms, oozy bottom. We passed without, that is, on the
west side of the three isles, upon the coast of Button. They are of a
considerable size, and inhabited.
[Sidenote: Second anchorage.]
The coast of Pangasani here rises like an amphitheatre, with a low land
at bottom, which I believe is often overflowed. I conclude it from
seeing the islanders always fix their habitations upon the sides of the
mountains. Perhaps too, as they are almost always at war with their
neighbours, they choose to leave an interval of wood between their huts
and the enemies who should attempt the landing. It seems even that they
are dreaded by the inhabitants of Button, who consider them as pirates,
upon whom no reliance can be had. Both parties are likewise used to wear
the _criss_ or dagger constantly in their girdle. At eight o’clock in
the evening, the wind dying away entirely, we let go our stream-anchor
in thirty-six fathoms, bottom of soft ooze. The Etoile anchored to the
northward, nearer the land. Thus we had passed the first narrow gut or
gullet.
[Sidenote: Third and fourth anchorage.]
The 14th, at eight o’clock in the morning, we weighed and made all the
sail possible, the breeze being faint, and we plied till noon; when,
upon seeing a bank to the S. S. W. we anchored in twenty fathoms, sand
and ooze, and I sent a boat to sound round the bank. In the morning
several periaguas came alongside, one among them displaying Dutch
colours at her poop. At her approach, all the others retired to make way
for her. She had on board one of their _orencaies_ or chiefs. The
company allow them their colours, and the right to carry them. At one
o’clock in the afternoon we set sail again, with a view to gain some
leagues farther; but this was impossible, the wind being too light and
scant; we lost about half a league, and at half past three o’clock we
let go our anchor again, in thirteen fathom bottom of sand, ooze,
shells, and coral.
[Sidenote: Nautical advice.]
Mean while M. de la Corre, whom I had sent in the boat, to sound between
the bank and the shore, returned and made the following report: Near the
bank there is eight or nine fathom of water; and as you go nearer the
coast of Button, which is high and deep, opposite a fine bay, you always
deepen your water, till you find no bottom with eighty fathom of line,
almost mid-channel between the bank and the land. Consequently, if one
was becalmed in this part, there would be no anchoring, except near the
bank. The bottom is, upon the whole, of a good quality hereabouts.
Several other banks ly between this and the coast of Pangasani. We
cannot therefore sufficiently recommend it, to keep as close as possible
to the land of Button in all this strait. The good anchorages are along
this coast; it hides no danger; and, besides this, the winds most
frequently blow from thence. From hence, almost to the out-let of the
strait, it seems to be nothing but a chain of isles; but the reason of
this is, its being intersected by many bays, which must form excellent
ports.
[Sidenote: Continuation and description of the straits.]
The night was very fair and calm. The 15th, at five o’clock in the
morning, we set sail with a breeze at E. S. E. and we steered so as to
come close to the east of Button. At half past seven o’clock we doubled
the bank, and the breeze dying away, I hoisted out the long-boat and
barge, and made signal for the Etoile to do the same. The tide was
favourable, and our boats towed us till three o’clock in the afternoon.
We passed by two excellent bays, where I believe an anchorage might be
found; but all along, and very near the high-shores, there is no bottom.
At half after three o’clock the wind blew very fresh at E. S. E. and we
made sail to find an anchorage near the narrow pass, by which one must
go out of these straits. We did not yet discover any appearances of it.
On the contrary, the farther we advanced, the less issue did we
perceive. The lands of both shores, which over-lap here, appear as one
continued coast, and do not so much as let one suspect any out-let.
At half past four o’clock we were opposite, and to the westward of a
very open bay, and saw a boat of the country-people’s, which seemed to
advance into it, to the southward. I sent my barge after her, with
orders to bring her to me, as I intended to get a pilot by this means.
During this time our other boats were employed in sounding. Somewhat off
shore, and almost opposite the north point of the bay, they found
twenty-five fathom, sand and coral bottom; and after that they were out
of soundings. I put about, then lay-to under top-sails, in order to give
the boats time to sound. After passing by the entrance of the bay, you
find bottom again, all along the land which joins to its southerly
point. Our boats made signal of 45, 40, 35, 29, and 28 fathom, oozy
bottom; and we worked to gain this anchorage with the help of our
long-boats. At half past five, we let go one of our bower-anchors there,
in thirty-five fathom of water, bottom of soft ooze. The Etoile anchored
to the southward of us.
[Sidenote: Fifth anchorage.]
As we were just come to an anchor, my barge returned with the Malayo
boat. He had not found it difficult to determine the latter to follow
her; and we took an Indian, who asked four ducatoons (about thirteen
shillings sterling) for conducting us; this bargain was soon concluded.
The pilot came to ly on board, and his periagua went to wait for him on
the other side of the passage. He told us, she was going thither through
the bottom of a neighbouring bay, from whence there was but a short
portage, or carrying-place, for the periagua. We were, upon the whole,
enabled to do without the assistance of this pilot; for some moments
before we anchored, the sun shining very favourably upon the entrance of
the gut, was the occasion of our discovering the larboard point of the
out-let, bearing S. S. W. 4° W. but one must guess which it is; for it
laps over a double rock, which forms the starboard point. Some of our
gentlemen employed the rest of the day in walking about on shore; they
found no habitations near our anchorage. They likewise searched the
woods, with which all this part is entirely covered, but found no
interesting production in it. They only met with a little bag near the
shore, containing some dried nutmegs.
The next morning we began to heave a-head at half past two o’clock in
the morning, and it was four before we got under sail. We could hardly
perceive any wind; however being towed by our boats, we got to the
entrance of the passage.
The water was then quite low on both shores; and as we had hitherto
found that the flood-tide set from the northward, we expected the
favourable return of it every instant; but we were much deceived in our
hopes; for here the flood sets from the southward, at least during this
season, and I know not which are the limits of the two powers. The wind
had freshened considerably, and was right aft. In vain did we with its
assistance endeavour to stem the tide for an hour and a half; the
Etoile, which first began to fall astern, anchored near the entrance of
the passage, on the side of Button, in a kind of elbow, where the tide
forms a sort of eddy, and is not very sensibly felt. [Sidenote: Sixth
anchorage.] With the help of the wind I still struggled near an hour
without losing ground; but the wind having left me, I soon lost a good
mile, and anchored at one o’clock in the afternoon, in thirty fathom,
bottom of sand and coral. I kept all the sails set, and steering the
ship, in order to ease my anchor, which was only a light stream-anchor.
[Sidenote: Leaving the Straits of Button; description of the passage.]
All this day our ships were surrounded with periaguas. They went to and
fro as at a fair, being laden with refreshments, curiosities, and pieces
of cotton. This commerce was carried on without hindering our manœuvres.
At four o’clock in the afternoon, the wind having freshened, and it
being almost high water, we weighed our anchor, and with all our boats
a-head of the frigate we entered the passage, and were followed by the
Etoile, who was towed in the same manner by her boats. At half past five
o’clock, the narrowest pass was happily cleared; and at half an hour
after six we anchored without, in the bay called Bay of Bouton, under
the Dutch settlement.
Let us now return to the description of the passage. When you come from
the northward, it does not begin to open till you are within a mile of
it. The first object which strikes one, on the side of Button, is a
detached rock, hollow below, representing exactly the figure of a tented
galley[126], half of whose cut water is carried away; the bushes which
cover it seem to form the tent; at low water, this galley joins to the
bay; at high water, it is a little isle. The land of Button, which is
tolerably high in this part, is covered with houses, and the sea-shore
full of enclosures, for catching fish in. The other shore of the passage
is perpendicular; its point is distinguishable by two sections, which
form as it were two stories in the rock. After passing the galley, the
lands on both sides are quite steep, and in some parts even hang over
the channel. One would think, that the god of the sea had opened a
passage here for his swelled waters, by a stroke of his trident.
However, the aspect of the coast is charming; that of Button is
cultivated, rises like an amphitheatre, and every where full of
habitations, unless in such places, which by their steepness exclude men
from coming at them. The coast of Pangasani, which is scarce any thing
but one solid rock, is however covered with trees; but there appear only
two or three habitations on it.
About a mile and a half to the northward of the passage, nearer Button
than Pangasani, we find 20, 18, 15, 12, and 10 fathom, oozy bottom; as
we advance to the southward in the channel, the bottom changes; there is
sand and coral at different depths, from thirty-five to twelve fathom,
and after that you are out of soundings.
[Sidenote: Advice on this navigation.]
The passage is about half a league long; its breadth varies from about
150 to 400 toises[127], as we judged from appearance. The channel goes
winding, and on the side of Pangasani; for at about two-thirds of its
length, there is a fishery, which must be considered as a mark to avoid
this shore, and range that of Button. In general it is necessary, as
much as possible, to keep the middle of the gut. It is likewise fit,
unless you have a brisk and favourable wind, to have your boats out
a-head, in order to steer well in the sinuosities of the channel. The
current, upon the whole, is strong enough there to carry you past in a
calm, and even when there is a light contrary wind; but it is not
sufficient to overcome a brisk head-wind, and to permit your passing the
channel, making short boards under top-sails. When you come out of the
gullet, the land of Button, several isles to the S. W. of it, and the
lands of Pangasani look as the entrance of a great gulph. The best
anchorage there, is opposite the Dutch settlement, about a mile off
shore.
Our pilot from Button, had assisted us with his knowledge, as far as was
possible for a man who knows the particular situation of these parts,
but understands nothing of the manœuvres of our ships. He took the
greatest care to inform us of all dangers, banks, and anchorages; only
he always required, that we should steer right in for the place where we
wanted to go, making no allowance for our manner of hugging the wind, in
order to be to windward, and to secure our point. He likewise believed,
that we drew eight or ten fathom of water. In the morning another Indian
came on board; he was an experienced old man, and we took him to be the
father of our pilot. They stayed with us till the evening, and I sent
them back in one of my boats. Their habitation is near the Dutch
factory. They would absolutely eat none of our provisions, not even
bread; some bananas and betel were their only food. They were not so
religious about drinking. Both the pilot and his father drank great
quantities of brandy; being, doubtless, assured that Mahomed had only
forbid them wine.
[Sidenote: Great visit of the islanders.]
The 17th, at five o’clock in the morning, we were under sail. The wind
was on-end; at first faint, then pretty fresh, and we continued plying.
At day-break we saw a whole swarm of periaguas come out from all parts;
they soon surrounded the ships, and a commerce was established, with
which all parties were pleased. The Indians, without doubt, disposed of
their provisions to us, to much greater advantage than they could have
done to the Dutch; however they sold them at a low rate, and all our
sailors could get poultry, eggs, and fruit. Both ships were full of
fowls, up as high as the tops. I must here advise those that pass this
way, to provide themselves, if they can, with the coin which the Dutch
make use of in the Moluccas; and especially with the plated pieces; the
value of which is 2½ sous. As the Indians did not know the coin which we
had, they did not value the Spanish reals, nor our pieces of 12 and 24
sous; and often refused to take them. These Indians likewise offered to
sell some finer and handsomer cottons than we had hitherto seen, and a
prodigious quantity of cockatoes and parroquets, of the finest plumage.
Towards nine o’clock in the morning, we were visited by five _orencaies_
of Button. They came in a boat, which looked like a European one, except
its being managed with paddles instead of oars. They had a great Dutch
flag at their poop. These _orencaies_ are well dressed; they have long
breeches, jackets with metal buttons, and turbans; whereas the other
Indians are naked. They have likewise the distinctive mark which the
company gives them; and which is a cane with a silver head, and this
mark [[Symbol]] on it. The oldest amongst them had above this mark an M,
in the following manner, [[Symbol with M]]. They came, as they said, to
be obedient to the company, and when they heard that we were French,
they were not disconcerted; and said, that they very willingly did
homage to France. They accompanied their first compliments of welcoming
us, with the gift of a roe-buck; I presented them in the king’s name
with some silk stuffs, which they divided into five lots; and I taught
them how to distinguish the colours of our nation. I offered them some
liquor; this was what they expected, and Mahomed permitted them to drink
some to the health of the sovereign of Button, and to that of France; to
the prosperity of the Dutch company, and to our happy voyage. They then
offered me all the assistance they were able to give; and told me, that
within three years there had passed at different times, three English
ships, which they had furnished with water, wood, fowls, and fruit; that
they were their friends, and that they conceived, we should be their
friends also. That instant their glasses were filled, and they had
already drank off several bumpers. They further informed me, that the
king of Button resided in this district; and I saw plainly that they
were used to the more civilized manners of the capital. They call him
Sultan[128]; and have certainly received that name from the Arabians,
together with their religion. The Sultan is despotic and powerful, if
power can be said to consist in the number of subjects; for his isle is
large and well peopled. The _orencaies_, after taking leave of us, made
a visit on board the Etoile. There they likewise drank to the health of
their new friends, who were obliged to hand them down into their
periaguas.
[Sidenote: Situation of the Dutch at Button.]
I asked them when they were drinking, whether their isle produced
spices? and they answered in the negative; and I readily believe they
spoke the truth, considering the weak settlement which the Dutch have
here. This station is composed of seven or eight bamboo huts, with a
kind of pallisadoes, decorated by the pole of a tent. There a serjeant
and three men reside for the company. This coast, upon the whole, offers
a most pleasing prospect; it is every where cultivated and covered with
huts. The plantations of cocoa-nut trees are very frequent on it. The
land rises with a gentle slope, and every where offers cultivated and
enclosed fields. The sea-shore is all full of fisheries. The coast,
which is opposite Button, is no less pleasing, nor less peopled.
[Sidenote: Nautical advice.]
Our pilot likewise returned to see us in the morning, and brought me
some cocoa-nuts, which were the best I had as yet tasted. He told me,
that when the sun should be at its greatest height, the S. E. breeze
would be very fresh, and I gave him a good draught of brandy for such
good news. We actually saw all the periaguas retire towards eleven
o’clock; they would not venture out to sea at the approach of the brisk
wind, which did not fail to blow as the Indian had foretold. A fresh and
pretty strong breeze at S. E. took us as we made a board upon an isle to
the west of Button; it permitted us to steer W. S. W. and made us gain a
good way against the tide. I must here observe, that one must take heed
of a bank, which runs pretty far out to sea from the isle of which I
have just spoken. As we plied in the morning, we sounded several times
without finding bottom, with fifty fathoms of line.
At noon we observed in 5° 31′ 30″ south lat. and this observation,
together with that which we had made at the entrance of the strait,
served to determine its length with precision. At three o’clock we
perceived the southern extremity of Pangasani. We had ever since this
morning seen the high mountains of the isle of Cambona, on which there
is a peak, whose summit rises up above the clouds. About half an hour
after four we discovered a part of the land of Celebes. We hoisted in
our boats at sun-setting, and set all sails, steering W. S. W. till ten
o’clock in the evening, when we stood W. by S. and we continued this
course all night, with studding-sails set alow and aloft.
[Sidenote: Remarks on this navigation.]
My intention was to fall in with the isle of Saleyer, about three or
four leagues from its northern point, that is, in 5° 55′ or 6° of
latitude, in order afterwards to go in search of the strait of the same
name, between this isle and that of Celebes, along which you sail
without seeing it, as its coast almost from Pangasani forms a gulph of
immense depth. It is likewise necessary to return in search of the
strait of Saleyer, when you pass through the Toukan-bessie; and from the
above details it must certainly be concluded, that the course through
the strait of Button is in every respect preferable. [Sidenote:
Advantages of the preceding track.] It is one of the safest and most
agreeable navigations that can be made. It joins all the advantages of
the best harbour to excellent anchorage, and to the pleasure of making
way at one’s ease. We had now as great an abundance of fresh provisions
on board our ships as there had been want before. The scurvy disappeared
visibly; a great many fluxes were indeed complained of, occasioned by
the change of food; this inconvenience, which is dangerous in the hot
countries, where it commonly is converted into a bloody-flux, still more
frequently becomes a severe sickness in the Moluccas. Both on shore and
at sea it is deadly there to sleep in the open air, especially when the
dew falls.
[Sidenote: Passing the straits of Saleyer.]
The 18th in the morning we did not see land, and I believe, that, during
night, we lost three leagues by the currents; we still continued our
course to W. by S. At half past nine o’clock we had a fair view of the
high lands of Saleyer, bearing from W. S. W. to W. by N. and as we
advanced, we discovered a less elevated point, which seems to terminate
this isle to the northward. I then steered from W. by N. successively to
N. W. by N. in order to view the straits well. This passage, which is
formed by the lands of Celebes and those of Saleyer, is likewise made
more narrow by three isles which seem to shut it up. The Dutch call them
Bougerones; and the passage, the Bout-saron. They have a settlement upon
Saleyer, commanded at present by Jan Hendrik Voll, book-keeper.
[Sidenote: Description of this passage.]
At noon we observed in 5° 55′ south lat. At first, we thought we saw an
island to the northward of the middle land, which we had taken for the
point of Saleyer; but this is a pretty high land, terminated by a point
which is connected with Saleyer, by an exceeding low neck of land.
Afterwards we discovered at once two pretty long isles, of a middle
height, about four or five leagues asunder. And lastly, between those
two we perceived a third, which is very little and very low. The good
passage is near this little isle, either to the northward or southward
of it. I determined upon the latter, which appeared to me to be the
largest. In order to facilitate the description, we shall call the
little isle, _Isle of the Passage_; and the two others, the one _South
Island_, and the other _North Island_.
[Sidenote: Description of this part of
Celebes.]