CHAPTER IX.

CAMBRIDGE AND HER SCHOOLS.

CAMBRIDGE, _July 21, 1902_.

The Cathedral route from London to Edinburgh takes one through an

interesting stretch of eastern England, part of which is as flat as

Holland, with fens and canals and windmills, yielding, however, in the

north to a more rolling country, vestibule, as it were, to the hills

of Scotland. As its name indicates, this route affords the opportunity

of seeing in rapid succession the great cathedrals at Ely, Lincoln,

York, and Durham, not to speak of others. But nothing on this side of

England equals in interest the university town of Cambridge, with its

twenty colleges and three thousand students, its venerable collegiate

buildings, its far-famed "backs" (that is, the lovely lawns and stately

avenues behind the colleges), its clear and placid little river, and

its memories of great men and great causes. It is an exceptionally

clean town, of some forty-five thousand inhabitants.

[Illustration: CLARE COLLEGE AND KING'S CHAPEL, CAMBRIDGE.]

[Sidenote: The Two University Towns.]

Oxford, farther west, is a somewhat larger city (about fifty-three

thousand), with twenty-three colleges and about three thousand

students, contains an unparalleled collection of picturesque academic

buildings, and has some single features which are not surpassed

anywhere, such as Magdalen (pronounced Maudlen) College, "the loveliest

of all the homes of learning," Addison's Walk, The Broad Walk, and the

"streamlike windings of that glorious street," to which Wordsworth

devoted a sonnet. But Cambridge, too, has some features which cannot

be paralleled, even in Oxford. For instance, Cambridge has, in

Trinity, the largest college in England. It has, in the chapel of

King's College, a building of marvellous beauty; Oxford cannot match

it, nor can it be matched anywhere in England save by that "miracle of

the world," the Chapel of Henry VII., in Westminster Abbey. The roll

of Cambridge's alumni is illustrious to a degree, having such names as

Bacon, Erasmus, Newton, Milton, Cromwell, Macaulay, Byron, Thackeray,

Tennyson, Wordsworth, Harvey (discoverer of the circulation of the

blood), Darwin, and many, many others equally well known.

[Sidenote: Cambridge more Progressive than Oxford.]

But the chief difference between Cambridge and Oxford is in the spirit

and influence of the two upon the nation and the world, and here the

glory of Cambridge excelleth. It used to be said in the fourteenth

century, "What Oxford thinks to-day, England thinks to-morrow."

But, as a matter of fact, it is Cambridge which has represented the

true progress of England and her modern political and intellectual

development, in such men as Milton and Cromwell, Isaac Newton and

William Pitt, Darwin and Tennyson. Oxford has stood chiefly for the

reactionary ideas of the High Church Anglicans.

The difference was sharply marked in the great testing time of the

seventeenth century, when the East supported the Parliament, and the

West supported the king. London and Cambridge were the centres of the

Puritan strength, Oxford was the capital of Charles I. Cromwell's

home was but a short distance from Cambridge, and he was a student at

Sidney-Sussex College, where we had the pleasure of seeing his rooms,

and the celebrated crayon portrait of him in the college hall. Roughly,

we might say, Cambridge has stood for the Parliament and the people,

Oxford for the king and the priests. At least, there has been more of

the spirit of freedom, democracy and progress at the eastern university

town than at the western.

[Sidenote: The Presbyterian Element.]

That the same difference still exists was indicated to us by a simple

fact. When we inquired at Oxford for a Presbyterian church, the

maid-servant said, "That is Protestant, isn't it?" She was evidently

a Romanist, but it is likely that most of the Church of England

people resident in Oxford never heard of Presbyterians, though our

denomination is so much larger than theirs. Oxford is the head centre

of Anglicanism, and there is no Presbyterian church there, though the

Congregationalists and Wesleyans are represented. But at Cambridge we

found a flourishing, though not yet a very large, church of our faith

and order, under the pastoral care of a gifted and earnest man, the

Rev. G. Johnston Ross, whose addresses at the Winona Conference, in

Indiana, this summer, gave so much satisfaction. We had the pleasure

of meeting him, and many of his people, at a pleasant garden party, to

which all the Presbyterians of Cambridge were invited.

By the way, we saw a thing in that church which we had never seen

before. When the minister read the Scripture lesson from the Old

Testament, in the English Version, the two ladies in whose pew we were

sitting opened the Hebrew Bible, and followed the reading in that,

and, in like manner, when the New Testament lesson was read, they

followed in the Greek text. To these two ladies whose learning has

been recognized by the Universities of St. Andrews and Heidelberg, in

the bestowment upon them of the degree of LL. D., and whose services

to the cause of biblical learning, in the discovery and editing of

the old Sinaitic Syriac manuscripts of the New Testament, have made

them famous throughout the world of scholars,[1] we had a letter of

introduction from a relative of theirs in Virginia, who is a kind

friend of ours. And thus we had the pleasure of meeting at their table

some of the choice spirits of the University, including the professors

in Westminster College, which is the theological seminary of the

Presbyterian Church in England.

[Sidenote: Westminster College.]

It was largely through the munificence of Mrs. Lewis and Mrs. Gibson,

the two elect ladies referred to above, that this institution was

transplanted from its former undesirable location, and established in

the city of Cambridge, thus bringing the Puritan theology back to its

original home in England. The financial agent who canvassed the English

Presbyterian Churches for the supplementing of the donation of these

two large-minded and large-hearted ladies was the Rev. Dr. John Watson,

of Liverpool, better known to the general reader as "Ian Maclaren,"

author of _Beside the Bonnie Brier Bush_, and other popular works; and

for special reasons it was with no ordinary interest that I examined

the result of his toils in the outfit with which the institution has

been provided. It is admirable. The location, indeed, is not so good or

so beautiful as that of Union Seminary, in Richmond, with its breezy

sweeps of green campus, and the building, which is of red brick like

ours, is not nearly so imposing as the handsome group at Richmond.

Everything, in fact, is on a much smaller scale, naturally so, as the

English Presbyterian Church is a much smaller body than our Southern

Church. But, on the other hand, there are some features that are

superior, _e. g._, the stairways are of stone, not of wood as with us.

The dining-hall is spacious, comely, cool, inviting, with ornamental

windows, and walls hung with portraits of Presbyterian worthies, and

the tables are heavy and handsome, of hard wood. No seminary in our

Southern Church, or in the Northern, has a sufficiently attractive

refectory. The one at Union Seminary is better than most of them, but

it, too, is below the mark. Some benevolent person can do a great work

for our future ministry by presenting that institution with a properly

equipped refectory building.

The rooms occupied by the students at Westminster are much smaller

than ours at Union, and seem in some cases cramped, but there is a

bath-room for every four students. I fear this will seem almost a

sinful degree of cleanliness to those brethren who a few years ago were

so much opposed to the introduction of any bath-rooms and other modern

conveniences into our seminary.

There are three professors at Westminster College, Cambridge: Principal

Dykes, Dr. Gibb, and Professor Skinner; and twenty-three students, a

slightly smaller number than last year.

[Sidenote: The same Difficulties about Candidates.]

The churches here are facing the same problem that confronts those in

America as to an adequate supply of ministers. The number of candidates

is decreasing rapidly in Scotland. Some attribute this decline to

the stagnant spiritual condition of the churches throughout Europe

and America, and connect it with the spread of devitalizing critical

theories concerning the Scriptures. But the zeal and activity of the

churches do not seem to be deficient in other particulars. It is not a

question to discuss here, but it is one for Christian people to think

about and pray over.

The identity of our difficulties in America and Britain may be

seen again in the fact that here also the theological schools are

complaining that the universities are graduating men with the degree of

A. B. who have never studied Greek. How can a man without Greek master

the New Testament in the original? Is it not clear that no man can be

a thoroughly furnished minister who has not studied Greek? Yet some of

our own colleges in America, conducted under Presbyterian auspices, are

encouraging this crippling omission by offering an A. B. course without

Greek.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] Of the value of this find Prof. Adolf Harnack says: "As the text is

almost completely preserved, this Syrus Sinaiticus is one of the most

important witnesses; nay, it is extremely probable that it is the most

important witness, for our gospels."

A Year in Europe · 第 9 / 35 章