CHAPTER VIII.

THE BRITISH REPUBLIC AND THE HOUSE OF COMMONS.

LONDON, _July 15, 1902_.

The nominal ruler of the British Empire is His Majesty, Edward VII.

The real ruler is the House of Commons. Though I was in Great Britain

at the time of the coronation, and saw something of the pomp with

which it was celebrated, I have not thought it worth while to occupy

the time of my readers with descriptions of it, since it is only one

of those glittering fictions which the English people see fit to

preserve, notwithstanding their general good sense--a somewhat childish

observance of outworn mediæval ceremonies, a foolish and expensive

form. But certainly I ought not to quit the subject of the political

ideas suggested by a sojourn in London, and especially by repeated

visits to that most interesting portion of it, Westminster, without

some reference to the part it has played in developing the model

of all the free governments of the world. For, as a British writer

has truly said, Westminster is historically the centre of politics,

not for London and Great Britain only, but for the civilized world.

"All civilized nations, both in Europe and America, as well as all

the British colonies, have now adopted the constitution which was

here founded and developed, with a single head of the State and two

chambers; though, with regard to the headship of the State and the

upper chamber, the elective has, in the most advanced politics, been

substituted for the hereditary principle, while in the cases of the

United States and Switzerland there is a federal as well as a national

element. The Roman imposed his institutions with arms upon a conquered

world; a willing world has adopted the institutions which had their

original seat at Westminster. But the British Constitution now means

little more than the omnipotence of the House of Commons. The immense

edifice is still styled the palace; but the King who now dwells in the

palace is the sovereign people."

[Sidenote: The Houses of Parliament.]

For this reason it is more common now to speak of the Palace of

Westminster as the Houses of Parliament. It is a vast and costly

pile, one of the largest Gothic buildings in the world, erected about

fifty years ago, in the Tudor style, at an outlay of fifteen million

dollars. The extremely florid exterior is constructed of a limestone so

perishable that already it costs ten thousand dollars a year to keep

it in repair. Tastes differ as to the merit of the architecture. Some

pronounce the building majestic and imposing. Others say that at a

little distance the river front looks like a large modern cotton mill.

All agree that there is too much elaborate ornamentation.

This is true of the interior, as well as the exterior, and, as some one

has said, it is interesting to observe the attempt made to preserve a

constitutional fiction by decorating with special gorgeousness that

Chamber of the House which has been stripped of all its power, viz.,

the House of Lords. It is resplendent in the vivid red leather which

covers the seats and backs of the straight benches, rising in tiers on

the opposite sides, and in the sumptuous frescoes of the walls, the

rich stained glass of the windows, and the excessive gilding of the

ceiling. The leather on the benches in the House of Commons is black,

and there is less of magnificence in general than in the Chamber of the

Peers, though it also is a rich interior.

[Illustration: THE HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT, LONDON.]

Yet neither of them makes an impression of spaciousness and

grandeur, and, to one who has seen the noble halls in which our

Senate and House of Representatives sit at Washington, both of these

legislative chambers of Britain seem small and cramped. They are also

mean and uncomfortable in their arrangements as compared with those

of our Congress. At Washington each member has his own chair, and

a desk for his books and papers. But here there are no desks, only

rigid benches, upon which the members sit or loll, facing each other

across the narrow chamber, the supporters of the government on the

Speaker's right, and the opposition on his left. Worst of all is the

fact that, though the combined science of the country was employed in

the construction of these halls of session and debate, they are both

wretched failures as to ventilation and acoustics, the House of Lords

being so bad in the latter particular that it used to be said that

members went out to buy an evening paper in order to learn what the

debate was about.

[Sidenote: Getting into the Lower House.]

As the House of Commons is King, we looked forward with eager interest

to a visit to that potent body. At the instance of our good friend,

Dr. Kerr, Sir James Campbell, a Presbyterian member of the House from

Scotland, wrote us an invitation to visit the Commons in session, but,

when we reached the door, at the appointed hour, and sent in our cards

through the line of policemen and doorkeepers, there was no reply.

When we had waited some time, a gentleman in the crowd at the entrance

accosted us, and asked if we were not Americans, and if we did not wish

to get into the House, both of which polite inquiries we answered with

an eager affirmative. He said he thought he could arrange it for us,

and, handing us his card, from which we learned that he was the London

correspondent of a great American newspaper, he left us for a minute,

and soon returned, accompanied by a friend of his, one of the Irish

members of the House, to whom we were introduced, and who promptly

procured us permission to enter the visitors' gallery. At Washington,

any one who chooses can go into the visitors' gallery, and listen to

the debates, but here there is a good deal of red tape. You must even

register your name and address, besides being introduced by a member,

before you can pass the turnstile and go in.

[Sidenote: The Debate and the Debaters.]

We soon discovered that we were very fortunate in gaining admission

just when we did, as the greatest question of the whole year, and,

indeed, the greatest question that has been before the House for many

years, was up, viz., the Education Bill, the object of which is to put

the schools of England, for the support of which the whole population

is taxed, under the control, not of the representatives of the public,

but of the ritualistic clergy of the Church of England; and in the

course of this very afternoon nearly every prominent man in both of the

great political parties was drawn into the discussion. When we entered,

Sir William Vernon Harcourt, the veteran Liberal statesman, had the

floor. Among others who followed him on the same side of the House were

Mr. James Bryce, the well-known author of _The Holy Roman Empire_ and

_The American Commonwealth_, Sir Henry Campbell-Bannerman, the leader

of the Liberal party in the House, and Mr. Lloyd George, who has made

the most active and brilliant opposition to this treacherous, sectarian

measure. The Irish Roman Catholics, who, of course, have voted steadily

and solidly with the Anglican High Churchmen for this iniquitous bill,

which strikes at the root of the fundamental republican principle of

public control of public funds, were represented in the debate by John

Dillon. Of the others who spoke in support of the bill, the two who

interested me most were Lord Hugh Cecil, the special patron of the

measure, and his gifted cousin, Mr. Arthur J. Balfour, the government

leader of the House. The former, who, I believe, is the son of the

veteran Prime Minister, Lord Salisbury, is a slender, pale, nervous

young man, who advocates very narrow views in very good language,

nervously pressing or wringing his slim fingers the while, and who is

the special champion of the ritualists and reactionaries. Far more able

and far more interesting in every way is his accomplished kinsman,

Mr. Balfour, who, a few days later, was appointed Prime Minister. He

is a tall, ruddy, handsome Scotchman, with a rare grace and charm of

manner, and an exceptional air of high breeding, who speaks in a manly,

straightforward way, with no trace of the bitterness, or even the heat

so common in political discussions. When one notes the clearness of his

mind, and the attractiveness of his address, it gives a keener edge

to the regret that such a man should be on the wrong side of a great

question like this. Mr. Balfour is well known to the sporting world as

a golf player, and to the reading world as the author of a thoughtful

book on _The Foundations of Religious Belief_.

It will interest the readers of this paper to know that he is a

Presbyterian, as Sir Henry Campbell-Bannerman, the leader of the

Opposition, also is. So that the leaders of both the great parties in

the House of Commons are Scotchmen and Presbyterians.

One of the interesting consequences of Great Britain's having a

Presbyterian Prime Minister is, that under their system of the union

of church and state, a Presbyterian will appoint the bishops and

archbishops of the Church of England to the vacancies of those offices

which occur during his premiership. This must be a very bitter pill for

the extreme High Churchmen.

[Sidenote: English and American Oratory.]

The failure of our arrangement with Sir James Campbell turned out to

be the result of a misunderstanding, so he courteously renewed it for

the following day, when his friend and fellow-member, Mr. Maxwell, who

is also a Scotch Presbyterian, met us at the door, in the absence of

Sir James, and, after showing us again everything of interest about the

Houses, including the restaurant, and the wide and spacious terrace,

running nearly the whole length of the building alongside the Thames,

where the members come, on fine afternoons, to drink their tea, ushered

us into seats "under the gallery" of the House, which are regarded as

the most desirable for visitors, since there the spectator is on a

level with the speakers.

The Education Bill was still under discussion, and we heard some good

speaking, but not so good as I have heard at Washington, and in the

Constitutional Convention at Richmond. The matter was generally good,

but the manner was in most cases constrained, if not hesitating, and

nearly all the members, including Mr. Balfour himself, have a habit

of grasping the lapels of their coats, "taking themselves in hand,"

as some one has described it. In short, the speaking itself lacks the

ease, freedom, fluency and force of our better American oratory.

However, it is only fair to give, before closing, the estimate of a

Canadian writer, who is familiar with both London and Washington, and

who says:

"The average of speaking is not so high in the House of Commons as

in Congress; but the level of the best speakers is higher. American

oratory almost always savors somewhat of the school of elocution, and

has the fatal drawback of being felt to aim at effect. The greatest

of English speakers, such as John Bright, the greatest of all, or

Gladstone, create no such impression; you feel that their only aim is

to produce conviction."

One of the most striking things about the House of Commons to the view

of an American visitor is the well-groomed appearance of the members.

They are invariably attired in faultless Prince Albert coats, often

with a boutonniere on the lapel, and they all wear silk hats, which, by

the way, they are not expected to take off during the sittings, except

when addressing the House. It is said to be the best-dressed assembly

in the world, and is in sharp contrast with the more democratic and

unconventional, not to say slovenly, mode of dressing which obtains in

our House of Representatives, where the ordinary costume is a long,

loose frock coat--sometimes even a sack--and a derby or felt hat.

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