north side of Pearl Street, between Whitehall and Broad Streets, in the
busiest part of the little city, and not far from the City Hall. It became
a noted place for Burgomasters' dinners, and was a popular place for
festivities of all kinds, characteristic of the taverns of this period.
The Burgomasters and Schepens of New Amsterdam had discovered the
toothsome terrapin, for which their successors, the aldermen of New York
City, were, years ago, known to be particularly partial, and their
dinners at the widow's tavern were no doubt supplied with this delicious
viand. Van der Donck, writing in 1656, says: "Some persons prepare
delicious dishes from the water terrapin which is luscious food." Here men
went on the arrival of a ship, to meet the skipper and hear the news from
the fatherland or from other foreign ports. Here were discussed the
tidings from up the river, where many young men were making adventurous
excursions among the Indians, in the far-off northern wilderness, in the
profitable business of gathering furs. The trade in furs, the Indian
troubles, the military expeditions, the Dominie's sermons and the
Director-General's proclamations,--these, and a great many more, both
public and personal matters--were talked over. It was a sort of business
and social exchange where were gathered and distributed news and gossip of
all kinds.
[Illustration: "THEY HAD DISCOVERED THE TOOTHSOME TERRAPIN"]
[Sidenote: Dutch Festivities]
The Dutch of New Amsterdam had a large capacity for enjoyment and in their
holiday season of Christmas and New Year, gave themselves up to every kind
of festivity and sport that the place could afford. We find from records
that some of these were firing of guns, beating of drums, dancing, playing
of tick-tack, bowling, playing of ninepins, sleighing parties or wagon
rides, etc. The taverns and taprooms were full of life and there were
likewise many family festivities and amusements, where the tables were
loaded with all the good things to eat and drink that were obtainable. Not
only was it the season of the delight and enjoyment of the young and gay,
but the older and graver citizens joined in the sports with enthusiasm and
encouragement. Even the Burgomasters and Schepens, with the other
officials, when the season of festivity approached, closed the public
offices temporarily. "Whereas," it is recorded, "the winter festivals are
at hand, it is found good, that between this date and three weeks after
Christmas the ordinary meetings of the Court shall be dispensed with."
Gathered together to celebrate one of the anniversaries of the festive
season, the flickering lights from oil lamps and tallow candles, reflected
from the whitewashed walls of Madame Wessels' assembly room, shone on as
happy and gay hearted a gathering as is found in the magnificent and
brilliantly lighted halls of our present grand city. They shone on "fair
women and brave men." Notwithstanding the humorous caricatures of
Washington Irving, the women were comely and the men were a sturdy and
adventurous lot. Here was the government official, with his sword at his
side. Here was the prosperous trader or merchant in his silk or velvet
breeches and coat flowered with silver lace, with gold or silver buttons,
lace neck cloth and silk stockings. He also wore a sword. The common
burgher in his homespun breeches and Kersey coat also took a part.
Handsome dresses, displayed on female forms were not numerous but there
were some that indicated the success and prosperity of the heads of the
families represented by the wearers. Gowns of thick embroidered silk and
petticoats of cloth and quilted silk graced the festive dance.
May-day was also celebrated with great spirit and on this occasion the
people were accorded by the city magistrates the greatest license. It was
announced that "any damage which may come from the general rejoicing
within the city on May-day shall be made known to the Burgomasters at the
City Hall immediately thereafter when means shall be taken to furnish
reparation."
But Governor Stuyvesant had no sympathy for such "unprofitable customs,"
and such "unnecessary waste of powder." He forbade on New Year and
May-days, the firing of guns, the beating of drums or the planting of
May-poles, and ordered that at these times there shall not be "any wines,
brandy-wines or beer dealt out." It is supposed that this ordinance was
not strictly enforced and that its restrictions were little observed.
Stuyvesant also, in February, 1658, forbade the farmers and their servants
to "ride the goose" at the feast of Bacchus and Shrovetide, which brought
a protest from the Burgomasters and Schepens, who felt aggrieved that the
Director General and Council should have done so without their knowledge
and consent. "Riding the goose," or "pulling the goose," was a cruel
sport, but it was not the fate of the goose that moved the tender heart of
Stuyvesant. He says in response to the protest that "in their time it has
never been practiced here, and yet, notwithstanding the same may in some
place of the fatherland _be tolerated and looked at through the fingers_,
it is altogether unprofitable, unnecessary and criminal for subjects and
neighbors to celebrate such pagan and Popish feasts, and to practice such
evil customs." He then gives the Burgomasters and Schepens a sound
scolding for their presumption, and informs them "that the _institution of
a little bench of Justice under the title of Schout, Burgomasters and
Commissioners_ does in no wise interfere with or diminish aught of the
power and authority of the Director General and Councellors in the
enacting of any ordinance or making any particular interdict, especially
such as tend to the glory of God and the best interests of the
Inhabitants."
II
NEW YORK AND THE PIRATES
[Sidenote: The English in New York]
When the English captured New Amsterdam, the heart of the British soldier
was no doubt cheered and gladdened by the sight of the Sign of Saint
George and the Dragon, which was boldly hung out in front of the house
looking out on the river on the west side of the present Pearl Street just
above Maiden Lane, kept by James Webb, from London. It was a stone house
which had been built more than fifteen years before by Sander Leendertsen
(Alexander Lindsay), upon the site of the present 211 Pearl Street. When
in March, 1665, the citizens were called upon to state how many soldiers
they could lodge, the entry is made in the records that "The Man of the
Knight of St. George will take one," which undoubtedly refers to the
landlord of this house. Webb, in 1665, married Margaret Radel, a widow,
and probably kept the house for some years. It was on the road leading to
the Long Island ferry, a favorite location for taverns.
Although Colonel Nicolls, the first deputy Governor for his Royal
Highness, James, Duke of York, is said to have filled his purse from the
proceeds of land grants and by compelling the holders of old grants to pay
him for confirmation, and to have been active in adding to his profits in
many other ways, and, although he was given despotic power, yet his rule
was characterized by so much leniency and moderation, compared with the
paternal, though arbitrary, rule of Peter Stuyvesant, that he became as
popular with the inhabitants as, under the circumstances, could be
expected. When, at the end of four years, he solicited and obtained his
recall, a grand dinner was given him at the house of Cornelis Steenwyck,
one of the most prominent Dutch merchants of the city, and two militia
companies, the Dutch officers of which had received their commissions from
him, escorted him to the ship which was to bear him to England.
[Illustration: "THE MAN OF THE KNIGHT OF ST. GEORGE"]
The English officials were naturally desirous of introducing English ways
and customs. Moved by this spirit, Governor Nicolls, to encourage the
English sport of horse-racing, established a race-course at Hempstead,
Long Island, which was continued and kept up by his successors, who issued
proclamations, directed to the justices, that races should be held in the
month of May.
New York, when it came into the hands of the English, was thoroughly
Dutch, and the Englishman was not pleased by the ways and customs of the
Dutch in tavern life, so different from the English. In a tavern conducted
in the Dutch way, where the landlord and all the attendants spoke the
Dutch language, the government officials and the English officers did not
feel that ease and comfort that they would in a truly English inn.
The prominent Dutch taverns continued to flourish, but in the course of
time, there was a gradual change, produced by the English influence. The
Dutch tavern keeper differed much from the inn-keeper of England, and the
newcomers, assuming the airs of conquerors, accustomed to the warm welcome
of an English inn, chafed under the restrains which they found or fancied,
and many broils occurred between the landlords and their Dutch countrymen
on one side and the English soldiers and sailors on the other.
[Sidenote: The Governor Builds a Tavern]
Although previous to this time and some years subsequent, the records of
public business transacted at taverns are numerous, for a long time after
the English came into control, there is no indication that the taverns
were thus much used by the English officials. The want of a tavern truly
English, that would satisfy the officers of the government, may have been
the cause which led Governor Lovelace to build, in 1672, on his own
account, an inn or ordinary right next to the City Hall, and to ask the
magistrates for permission to connect the upper story of the house with
the City Hall by a door opening into the Court's Chambers. The
proposition was agreed to by the magistrates, leaving it to the governor
to pay what he thought fit for "the vacant strooke of ground" lying
between the buildings and "not to cut off the entrance into the prison
doore or common gaol."
This door connecting the City Hall and the tavern was meant to serve, in
its way, a very useful purpose, but lacking reliable data in reference to
the part it played in facilitating communication between the tavern
taproom and the halls of justice, we leave each reader to supply the
deficiency by his own opinions on the subject.
[Sidenote: Tavern Regulations]
It was a uniform custom in the English colonies to make provision for the
care of strangers and to regulate by law the taverns and the sale of
strong drink. By the duke's laws, which were enacted, or rather accepted,
by representatives of the people at the Hempstead convention, in 1665,
inn-keepers were not allowed to charge "above eight pence a meal with
small beer," and were required to always have on hand a supply of "strong
and wholesome" malted liquor.
In January, 1676, it was ordered that "all persons who keep publick houses
shall sell beere as well as wyn and other liquors and keep lodgings for
strangers." It was proposed to the governor by the mayor and aldermen that
six houses be appointed to sell "all sorts of wine, brandy and rum and
lodgings," and eight to "sell beere, syder, mum and rum and to provide for
strangers as the law directs," that two of "the wine houses be ordinaryes,
and four of the beere-houses." Prices were fixed at which the tapsters
should sell. French wines and Madeira were from one and three pence to two
shillings per quart; brandy at six pence and rum at three pence per gill;
beer and cider were three and four pence per quart. In the ordinary at the
wine house the meal was one shilling and in that at the beer house it was
eight pence; lodging at the wine house was four pence per night, and at
the beer house it was three pence. Thus a sharp distinction was drawn
between the two classes of houses and there was in all probability as
great a difference in their keepers.
[Sidenote: First Merchants' Exchange]
Broad Street had become a desirable place of residence and many citizens
of the better class made it their home. The canal or ditch through the
middle of it, from the present Exchange Place to the river, would never
have been there if New York had not been originally a Dutch town. Across
the canal, near the river, between the present Stone and Bridge Streets,
was a bridge. This was a favorite lounging place for idlers, where,
leaning over the railing of the bridge, they could watch the ebb and flow
of the tide and the various small boats which went a little way up the
canal to discharge their cargoes of oysters, fish and country produce
brought over from Long Island or other nearby points. It was the center
of probably more stir and activity than any other place in the little
city. Here the merchants had become accustomed to meet for trade and the
transaction of business of various kinds. This induced Governor Lovelace,
March 24, 1669-70, to issue an order establishing a sort of business
exchange. This order specified that the meeting of the merchants should be
between the hours of eleven and twelve on Friday mornings, at present near
the bridge, and the mayor was directed to take care that they should not
be disturbed. The time of meeting and dispersing was to be announced by
the ringing of a bell. It was the beginning of the merchants' exchange.
This continued to be the meeting place of the merchants, and near this
spot a building called the Exchange was subsequently built.
Not far away, on the present northwesterly corner of Broad and Pearl
Streets, stood the tavern of James Matthews, who, besides keeping a
tavern, was a merchant and a man of considerable means. The meeting place
for merchants being almost in front of his door his house was a very
convenient place for them to retire to, to consummate their bargains over
a social glass. In 1678 and in 1685 he was one of the farmers of the
excise. He died in the latter part of the year 1685, or early in 1686, and
his widow continued to keep the house for about two years, when she also
died. The executors of her estate petitioned, in March, 1688, for an
abatement of £20 excise money.
In September, 1676, Abraham Corbett, "driven with his family from his home
eastward of New England," petitioned for a license to distill strong
liquors, which was granted him. He became a lieutenant in the militia in
1684; and was one of the farmers of the excise in 1688, which indicates
that he was a man of respectability and deserving of public confidence. He
was also a tavern keeper. When Samuel Leete, clerk of the Court of Mayor
and Aldermen, and an Alderman of the city, died in 1679, he left to
Abraham Corbett, "all my household goods in part payment of what I owe him
for meat and drink." By Governor Dongan's Charter of 1686, Abraham Corbett
was appointed an Assistant Alderman. In 1680 he purchased for sixty pounds
sterling a house and lot on the east side of Broadway, two or three doors
south of the present Exchange Place, and some years later on this lot he
erected a fine tavern, which he called the "Royal Oak," where he spent his
declining years in its management. Considering the position which Corbett
held in the esteem of the people there is no doubt that his house received
the patronage of the best class of the community.
In these early days there were no parks, but the open country was near at
hand with all the charms of nature. Just south of the present Trinity
Churchyard was the Governor's Garden. A large gateway led to it and to a
charming spot--a piece of elevated ground covered with natural
forest--called the "Locust Trees," which was a resort for those who
enjoyed the open air, where they could look out on the broad expanse of
the Hudson. It was not then covered with that panorama of moving craft
which it now presents. It was the same majestic river as now, but its
surface was unbroken except by a lonely canoe or a small sail or two
lazily drifting up or down the stream, with the green shores of Staten
Island and Pavonia in the distance.
The road along the East River, beyond the "water gate," had a number of
dwellings on its upper side. On the way to the ferry a road joined it
called the "Maadge poadge," or Maiden Lane, and a little way further
another, the present John Street, led up to Vandercliff's Orchard, which
is said to have been a place of public resort, owned and kept by Dirck
Vandercliff, who was also a merchant, and in 1687 was an assistant
alderman.
A singular incident occurred at this place in 1682. James Graham, who was
an alderman of the city in 1681, recorder in 1683, and afterwards
attorney-general, had, according to evidence, expressed a desire to make
the acquaintance of Captain Baxter, an English officer recently arrived in
the Province, and accordingly a party of several friends, including Graham
and Baxter, met at the tavern of Dirck Vandercliff in "The Orchard," to
spend a social afternoon and evening. About nine o'clock, as the company
was about to break up, Graham, after paying the reckoning, was called
aside by Baxter, but not out of the sight of the company. Those present
saw Baxter act as if to kiss Graham, when the latter called out that he
had been stabbed. He had been struck with a knife under the collar bone,
the wound being about four inches deep. Baxter was arrested and bound over
to await his trial in case of Graham's death, but the wound did not prove
to be mortal.
[Sidenote: Wolfert Webber's Tavern]
On the hillside at the present Chatham Square, near the Collect or fresh
water pond and the sparkling stream that fed it with the purest water on
Manhattan Island, in a charming retreat, then considered far beyond the
city wall, stood the tavern of Wolfert Webber, built in the time of the
Dutch, and for a long time the farthest outlying dwelling on the eastern
side. We find in the record that in 1655, a daughter of Wolfert Webber,
tavernkeeper, had been returned to him from her captivity among the
Indians. Notwithstanding the danger from attacks of the Indians, Webber
continued to keep this house, and it was probably patronized by people who
wished to enjoy the pleasures of the quiet and beautiful spot where it was
located. In the marshes or swamps to the northwest, called the Kripple
Bush, the sportsman could, in season, find woodcock in abundance, or he
could enjoy the more gentle sport of angling in the Collect. Although the
eastern side of the Collect was very attractive, the western side, at one
time, was the residence of the very poorest class of people, and, on
account of the stagnant water of the nearby swamps, considered very
unhealthy.
When the Dutch were in possession of the city for the second time and
called it New Orange, Wolfert Webber was made a magistrate for the Outside
People, or those beyond the Fresh Water, and under the English he was
appointed by the Dongan Charter of 1686 an assistant alderman. He
represented the Out Ward as assistant Alderman in 1688, 1689, 1706 and
1707, and was still keeping the tavern at this same place. In April, 1715,
"enjoying yet good health, but being ancient," he made his will, and died
a year or two after.
In 1660, on account of the repeated attacks of the Indians on the outside
settlements, an order was issued requiring the abandonment of isolated
habitations, and the gathering of the people in hamlets or villages for
mutual protection. In response to this order there came a petition from
those living beyond the fresh water stream asking that their houses might
be permitted to remain, and that encouragement be held out to others to
build near them so as to form a village. This request was granted and a
village was established near the bowery of Governor Stuyvesant. A tavern,
a blacksmith shop and a few other buildings formed the settlement to which
was added shortly after a small church, erected by the governor on a part
of his farm. To this farm or bowery Stuyvesant retired when the English
had relieved him of the cares of office. The road leading to this village
became known as the Bowery Road or Lane.
For a time this was the end of the road, but when the English came into
possession of the city, they soon sought to open communication with the
New England colonies by land and with the recently made settlement of New
Harlem. A road was laid out which, in time, was extended through the whole
length of the island to King's Bridge, and became the highway of travel
for all going to the north or east.
[Sidenote: The Two-Mile Tavern]
The tavern which had been set up at the village, as travel increased
became known as the two-mile stopping place, and is said to have been a
famous place of resort. Its situation was admirable, for the purpose, and
it was, no doubt, visited by those making excursions of pleasure from the
city, especially sleighing parties. At this time and for a great many
years this was the only road of any great length on which such a sport
could be enjoyed. For a long time the tavern was occupied by Adriaen
Cornelissen, who was farmer and tavern-keeper. He was living here in 1674,
when the Dutch for the second time were in possession of New Amsterdam,
which they then called New Orange, and was appointed one of the schepens
or magistrates for the outside people or those beyond the wall. Under the
English rule he was Assistant Alderman in 1684 and in 1687. In 1689 he was
made a captain of militia, his commission bearing date, December 16th of
that year.
When, in 1690, commissioners came down from the New England colonies to
confer with those of New York and deliberate on proper steps to be taken
against the French and Indians, they declined to enter the city on account
of the prevalence of small-pox, and Governor Leisler fixed upon this house
as the place of meeting, describing it as a good, neat house, about two
miles from the city, and kept by Captain Arian Cornelis. Here the
commissioners met on the 1st of May, 1690.
[Sidenote: John Clapp Tavern-Keeper]
A few years later the landlord of this tavern was John Clapp, the maker
and publisher of the first almanac by a resident of New York City, which
he says was "the product of my many spare Minnits." It was not the first
printed in New York, for Bradford had, for several years, printed Leed's
Almanac. Clapp claims to have been the first person in New York to set up
a hackney coach, and announces in his almanac that "about two miles
without the City of New York, at the place called the Bowery, any
Gentlemen Travellers that are strangers to the City, may have very good
Entertainment, for themselves and Horses, where there is also a Hackney
Coach and good Saddle Horses to be hired." He was a promoter of social
festivities, which well became him as a genial landlord. In the Almanac,
under June, is found the following:
"The 24th of this month is celebrated the Feast of St. John Baptist, in
commemoration of which (and to keep up a happy union and lasting
friendship by the sweet harmony of good society), a feast is held by the
_Johns_ of this city, at John Clapp's in the Bowery, where any Gentleman
whose Christian name is John may find a hearty wellcome to joyn in consort
with his namesakes." He notes that John Clapp's in the Bowery, two miles
from the postoffice, is generally the baiting place where gentlemen take
leave of their Friends going on a long journey, "where a parting glass or
two of generous Wine,
If well apply'd, makes the dull Horses feel,
One Spur i' th' Head is worth two in the heel."
Seven miles from Clapp's was the half way house, nine miles further was
King's Bridge, and from King's Bridge to Old Shute's, at East Chester, was
six miles.
Excepting that of the governor, it is doubtful if there was a single
equipage for pleasure in the City of New York at this time, and the ease
with which a sled or sleigh could be constructed, which would smoothly
and silently glide over the snow, made sleigh-riding a great sport during
the period when it could be enjoyed. That John Clapp's house, at the two
mile station, was a great place of resort at such times, is no mere
supposition. We have the testimony of Madam Sarah Knight, who was in New
York in 1704, that this was so. She had come from Boston to New York on
horseback, and the quaint and humorous way in which she has told the story
of her travels has made her little book a gem for the antiquarian. She
says of the New Yorkers: "Their diversion in the winter is riding sleys
about three miles out of town, where they have houses of entertainment at
a place called the Bowery." On an excursion with Mr. Burroughs, she says
that she believes that she met that day as many as fifty or sixty "sleys,"
which, she says, "fly with great swiftness, and some are so furious that
they'll turn out of the path for none but a Loden cart," which surely
indicates the enthusiasm with which the sport was enjoyed, and John Clapp,
at such times, was, no doubt, a very busy man.
John Clapp seems to have received an education which made him a prominent
man among the settlers. In the time of Governor Leisler he was a resident
of Flushing, when, "at a town meeting upon Long Island where divers of the
freeholders of the Towns of Hamsted, Jamaica, Flushing and Newtown wer
mett and assembled, to consult on the lamentable state and condition that
Theire Maj'ties liege subjects lay under; by the severe oppressions and
Tyranical usurpations of Jacob Leisler and his accomplices, it was desired
by the freeholders aforesaid that Capt. John Clapp should write an humble
letter to Their Maj'ties Secr'ty of Stat in all there behalves and signify
to there Maj'ties in what a sad condition we are all in.--Nov. 7th, 1690."
This is followed by a long letter.