THE ARRAN ISLANDS--CIRCUIT REMINISCENCES.
On my return from France, I found that my son, Frank Thorpe, had
accepted the appointment of medical officer in the Islands of Arran,
which lie at the entrance of Galway Bay; and at his earnest desire, I
proceeded to visit him, without the slightest expectation of deriving
from the trip any pleasure, except that resulting from our meeting. On
my journey, as I reverted to the scenes and associations which, in
distant and foreign lands, had been almost invariably agreeable, I felt
convinced that I was certain of finding, in the lonely insular locality
to which I was going, the most striking contrasts. The passenger
communication between Galway and Arran was effected by a sailing vessel
of very moderate dimensions, but bearing the dignified appellation of
"The Yacht." She had one small cabin for the reception of all ranks,
sexes, or ages; and as the weather was neither wet nor cold, I
preferred a seat astern, and having procured a reeling-line from one of
the crew, amused myself by capturing mackerel until I had acquired a
couple of dozen. There were four lines in operation during a run of
about thirty miles, and for five hours the catching of mackerel was
incessant. The skipper said that the bay was swarming with them, but
net-fishing was only followed in the vicinity of Galway town, as the
transmission of large quantities by sailing boats was considered
extremely hazardous. If the capability of Galway Bay for supplying
enormous quantities of mackerel, herrings, and occasionally pilchards,
shall ever be made available, results may be obtained immensely
advantageous to local interests, and most important to the general
community. I may revert briefly to this subject whilst detailing some
incidents of my sojourn amongst the Arran islanders.
No traveller ever arrived in a locality to which he could be supposed to
attach a more slender expectation of being gratified by what he might
receive during his stay, than that felt by me at the commencement of my
visit to Arran. I was impressed with a paramount idea, that I was to
spend the time in a bleak, sterile region, and amongst a population
destitute of almost every habitude or quality imparted by civilization.
I could not possibly have formed a more erroneous opinion, for I never
stood on any spot, in any of the islands, without having in view,
whether near or distant, scenery sublimely picturesque; and I found the
people, without even an individual exception, unpresuming, unobtrusive,
civil, obliging, intelligent, and industrious. The adults of both sexes
generally indicate in their personal appearance the effects of constant
manual labor, and of occasional privation, but they are mostly tall,
vigorous, and active. Many of the youthful females are decidedly
beautiful in features and figure, and there is no scarcity of very
pretty children. The aggregate population of the three islands exceeds
four thousand; and although Irish is the language generally spoken, I
did not meet with any who could not converse in English. Schools
connected with the National Board of Education are numerously and
regularly attended; and although the generality of the men and women
appear to be attached to, and contented with the locality in which they
live, there is a great desire frequently expressed to qualify their
progeny to engage in industrial pursuits or trading employments
elsewhere.
There are no forest trees to be seen in any of the islands except a few
stunted sycamores. I saw two or three pear-trees, which had been planted
close to walls, but their growth appeared to have been checked by the
saline atmosphere and shallow soil, and they produced no fruit. On the
hills I found a great variety of indigenous flowering plants, which were
very handsome, and in the rocky dells there were several kinds of
convolvulus of very rich florescence. The Madagascar Periwinkle seems to
be perfectly acclimated, and blossoms profusely; and I was greatly
surprised to find a very abundant growth of hops, the introduction of
which is ascribed to the monks, by whom the numerous old ecclesiastical
structures were formerly occupied. The tillage of the islands comprises
potatoes, mangold-wurtzel, vetches, rape, clover, oats, and barley. The
potatoes almost exclusively planted are round, white tubers, generally
small, but numerous, and they are termed "Protestants." A perfect
stranger might be startled by hearing a direction given to put the
Protestants on the fire, or to roast them in the glowing turf; but the
proprietor of the Atlantic Hotel, in reply to an observation of mine,
said that there was no offence intended, for _they found the Protestants
very palatable_. The tillage crops are sometimes greatly devastated by
caterpillars and grubs; and I have frequently heard the abundance of
those pernicious insects attributed to the great scarcity of sparrows
and other small birds. Starlings are occasionally seen, but I never
observed a swallow. Gulls and other marine birds are very numerous,
amongst which the Ospray or sea-eagle is a conspicuous object. The
raven, crow, rook, or jackdaw cannot be found; but there is a bird which
I thought extremely handsome, very numerous, especially in the North
Island. It is the Chough, which, in addition to plumage dark and glossy,
like that of the jackdaw, displays a beak and legs of bright scarlet. It
is said that this bird was formerly to be seen in flocks at various
places on the English coast, especially Dover cliff, and that now it
cannot be found in any part of the United Kingdom except the Arran
Islands. I should regret its extinction, for I know it to be handsome,
and it is reputed to be harmless.
I recollect reading, although I am unable to specify in what work, that
frogs were not indigenous to Ireland. It was stated that in the reign of
Elizabeth, a person connected with the University of Dublin, then
recently established, brought from England a crock or jar of frog spawn,
which he emptied into a ditch at Beggars' Bush, near Dublin, and that in
his importation our present community of amphibious croakers and jumpers
originated. The probability of this statement is strengthened by the
fact, that frogs are not to be seen in the Arran Islands.
I believe that there is not a salmon fishery in Great Britain or Ireland
more abundant than the one at Galway. I have there seen from the bridge
the fish in such numbers as I should have considered incredible if
described. These myriads of salmon entered Galway Bay from the Atlantic,
and passing the islands, proceeded about thirty miles to the river where
they appeared in such enormous quantities. I therefore think that I
should mention a most extraordinary fact, that whilst I was at Arran, I
saw, in a morning stroll, five men drawing a seine net at the entrance
to Kilronan harbour. They took some herrings, a few flat fish of various
kinds, some whiting, some pollock, and a salmon of about twelve pounds
weight. I was desirous of purchasing the latter, and they readily sold
it to me for two shillings; but they all assured me that they did not
know what kind of fish it was, and that they had never seen one before.
The quantity of land capable of tillage in each island is very limited,
and consequently affords employment only to a small portion of the
population. Fishing in the bay, with boats rather poorly equipped, or
drawing seine nets in the creeks and entrance of the harbour, and
cleaning and drying the produce, are followed by many during the
favorable weather; but the principal employment of a very considerable
number of both sexes is gathering of the seaweed, and converting it into
kelp by calcination. I believe that all other industrial occupations are
of trivial importance to the Arran people compared with the production
of kelp. The capability of Galway Bay to be made a fishing station of
immense importance has never been denied; it can produce an abundance of
the choicest piscatory delicacies, and frequently becomes, through its
entire extent, replete with mackerel or herrings. I venture to express
an opinion, that the greatest obstacle to the development of such
advantages is to be found in the feeling of indifference, perhaps I
might use a stronger term, on the part of the people belonging to the
various adjoining localities, to each other. I have heard, in Arran,
frequent expressions of contempt for the Connemara fishermen, of dislike
to the Clare people, and of utter detestation of those belonging to the
Claddagh at Galway. On two occasions, in the South of England, I saw a
great fleet of boats, comprising vessels from Cornwall, Devonshire,
Hampshire, and Kent, co-operating amicably and efficiently in
surrounding a shoal of mackerel or pilchards. On narrating these
occurrences to some Arran fishermen, I was told "it would be impossible
to bring about such a state of things there; and that, even if others
became agreeable, the Claddagh fellows would rather sail through the
nets of other fishermen than join in taking as much as would fill every
boat."
Whilst I was at Arran some cases occurred of severe typhus fever. There
is no hospital in any of the islands. The habitations are, with three or
four exceptions, thatched, and without any upper story. The invariable
course adopted was to nail up the door of the patient's apartment, to
take out the sashes of a window, and render it the sole means of
external communication. The medical attendant, clergy, and nursetender,
had no other means of ingress or egress, and I never heard any
objection made to the system. My son contracted the disease, and
although ten days elapsed before a medical gentleman arrived from
Galway, he surmounted the fearful malady. I spent each night in his
apartment, and during the day he was tended by a nurse. Almost every
night I heard some gentle taps outside of the vacant window, and on
going to it I would be told, "My wife is afther making a pitcher of whay
fur the poor docthur; you'll find it on the windystool," or "I brought
you two jugs of milk, to make whay fur yer son; they're on the
windystool." When the crisis had passed, and nutriments or stimulants
were required, I would be told, "We biled down two chickens into broth
for the docthur, I hope that it will sarve him." Rabbits, chickens, and
joints of kid were tendered for his use, and even a bottle of "rale
Connemara potteen" was deposited on the window-stool. The people were
all kind and anxious; and when he became able to walk out, he was
cordially saluted and congratulated, but no person would approach him if
they could avoid it. They were all dreadfully apprehensive that he might
impart the direful contagion. I brought him home as soon as possible,
but he and I will always remember most gratefully the unvarying kindness
and sympathy we experienced in Arran.
CIRCUIT REMINISCENCES.
Some friends of the Leinster Circuit have suggested that a few
descriptive notices of my personal recollection of scenes in court,
convivial evenings at the Bar-mess, or other amusing incidents of the
period between 1827 and 1840, during which time I had attended every
Assize Court held in Wicklow, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, and
Tipperary, might not be unacceptable. The subject is one in which the
pleasures of memory are mingled with numerous regrets; for of all those
whose learning and talents excited my respect and admiration, or whose
wit and conversational powers rendered their society invariably
delightful, very few remain. Of the judges which I remember, I
considered Chief Baron O'Grady (subsequently created Lord Guillamore)
the most amusing public functionary that I ever had seen. He came our
circuit but once during my time. At Wicklow he presided in the Crown
Court; and amongst the cases for trial there were four or five for
sheep-stealing, and they were all convicted. Sheep-farming was at that
time so prevalent in Wicklow, and considered so important by the class
of persons who were summoned as jurors, that an accusation of
sheep-stealing almost invariably eventuated in conviction. Towards the
close of the assizes, a member of the Militia band then stationed at
Arklow was put forward for trial on an indictment for the manslaughter
of a comrade, whom he had killed with his sword on a sudden altercation.
The case appeared fully to warrant a conviction, but the jury, without
even retiring, acquitted the prisoner. Mr. Scott, the senior counsel for
the crown, expressed an indignant disapproval of the verdict, upon which
the Chief Baron observed, "Mr. Scott, the prisoner is not yet
discharged, and you can get a conviction immediately if you only indict
him for _sheep-stealing_." When we proceeded to Wexford, the Chief
Baron, as Record Judge, had but two short cases to try, and when they
were disposed of, he engaged in the trial of criminals. A woman named
Hester Carroll, who had been for some time a pest and disgrace to the
town of Enniscorthy, was put forward, charged with a robbery of a gold
watch and chain, and upwards of twenty pounds, from a farmer, who had
become intoxicated in her society. She was found guilty, and when the
verdict was announced, a sergeant of constabulary, who had been the
principal means of her detection, advanced to the table in the Record
Court where she was standing, to take away various articles which had
been found in her possession; whereupon she sprang at him, tore his face
fearfully, and bit his hand very severely. When she was disengaged from
her intended victim, and held so as to prevent further violence, the
Chief Baron pronounced the sentence of the court in terms which seemed
to me and others of his hearers to be an imitation, in style and
assumed solemnity, of that incident to a capital offence. After some
preliminary observations on the heinous nature of her crime, and the
certainty of her guilt, and the tendency of her conduct in court to
prevent any mitigation of punishment, he concluded in the following
words--"The sentence of the court is that you, Hester Carroll, shall be
taken from the place where you now stand, to the gaol from whence you
were brought, and from thence that you shall be transported for the term
of seven years to such penal settlement or colony as his Majesty's
government may direct, and may God have mercy upon those who shall have
to manage you there."
A prisoner was tried before him at Wexford on an indictment for highway
robbery, and although the evidence amounted to a strong probability of
his guilt, the verdict was an acquittal. Richard Newton Bennett, who
defended the prisoner, immediately applied to the Chief Baron to order
the man to be liberated, to which the other replied, "He will be
discharged from custody, Mr. Bennett, to-morrow at noon. I shall set out
for Waterford in the morning, and I wish to have a couple of hours start
of your client."
In my early professional days the law in reference to injuries to
growing crops of vegetables was very imperfect, and although taking
potatoes, turnips, &c. out of the owner's ground was considered a very
serious trespass, the offence could not be treated as actual larceny.
Some proceedings at Waterford, in reference to the abstraction of
turnips, were held to be insufficient to sustain an indictment, and a
deputation of the Grand Jury sought a conference with Chief Baron
O'Grady on the subject. One of them asked his Lordship if the
delinquents could be made liable to punishment under the _Timber_ Act,
to which he gravely replied, "Certainly not, unless you can prove that
the turnips were _sticky_."
Charles Kendal Bushe had been a member of the Leinster Bar; and when he
had attained the distinguished position of Chief Justice, he frequently
selected his former circuit as a Judge of Assize. Amongst the members
of the Bar he was not merely respected and admired, but beloved. Portly
in his personal appearance, he was dignified without ostentation, witty
without sarcasm, learned without pedantry, and his judicial duties were
discharged with impartiality, patience, kindness, and humanity. Kilkenny
was his native county, and amongst the gentry of that place his family
had been long established. The judges on circuit usually invite two or
three barristers to dinner daily in each town; and I had the very
agreeable honor of being an occasional guest of Chief Justice Bushe. I
recollect a conversation relative to the criminal calendars of that time
compared with those of the previous century. The Chief Justice said that
the name of his family had been introduced into the charge of a judge to
the Grand Jury of Kilkenny, about the year 1760, in terms far from
complimentary. There were then organised bands or gangs of freebooters,
who plundered and maltreated the proprietors and tenants of estates,
unless a certain subsidy, called rapparee rent, or blackmail, was paid
for their forbearance, and concealment and subsistence afforded whenever
required. He said that the Agar family, (pronounced _Eager_,) the
Floods, and the Bushes had become contributory to the marauders, and
sheltered them from capture. Rumours of such an arrangement having been
circulated, it was alluded to by Baron Dawson telling the Grand Jury of
Kilkenny that their county was _eager_ for prey, _flooded_ with
iniquity, and that every _bush_ sheltered a knave.
Having given the Chief Justice's anecdote in reference to three names, I
may mention that my own name has not passed scotfree. At our Bar-mess,
the Hon. Patrick Plunket was one evening insisting that I should sing a
particular song. I begged to be excused, but he persevered, and
continued exclaiming, "Porter! Porter!" I said that "although I was
'Porter,' he should not make a _butt_ of me." He replied, "I don't want
to make a _butt_ of you, I only wish to get a _stave_ out of you."
Judge Torrens often came on our circuit, and generally dined twice at
the bar-mess: one dinner being the customary banquet given by the Bar
to the judges at Kilkenny, and the other being by special invitation at
Clonmel. He was always desirous on such convivial occasions of obtaining
some vocal contributions, especially of a comic character. His favorite
song was "The Wedding of Ballyporeen." He was Judge of the Record Court
at Clonmel in 1833, and immediately after taking his seat at the
commencement of the Assizes, was applied to by the late Mr. Brewster to
fix a day for the trial of a case, the parties to which, and their
witnesses, had to come from the most distant part of the country,
namely, Ballyporeen. The Judge made the order sought, saying, in a
playful tone, "Is Mr. Porter engaged in this Ballyporeen case?" "No, my
Lord," replied Brewster, "I regret that I have not the assistance of my
learned friend."
"Most unquestionably," said his Lordship, "he ought to be in it."
There were some attorneys present who heard his remark, but they were
not aware of the origin of his suggestion. Perhaps they ascribed it to a
very favorable opinion of my professional capacity, or to a feeling of
personal friendship; but I found it subsequently productive of several
record-briefs, which I might truly say were obtained "for a song."
In 1836, the Attorney-General (Richards) appointed me to a Crown
prosecutorship on the circuit. In the afternoon of a day next before the
opening of the Assizes of Clonmel, in 1838, I was sitting and noting a
brief, whilst about a dozen more were lying on my table, when I was
informed that a gentleman wished me to grant him an interview. Acceding
to his request, I desired the servant to show him up, and I immediately
perceived that he was an ecclesiastic. I proffered him a chair, and he
proceeded to inform me that he was the Rev. Mr. Coony, a Catholic curate
in a parish the name of which has escaped my memory; but it was near
Clonmel. He was young, and zealous in advancing the religious interests
of the flock with which he had recently become connected, and stated it
was much to be regretted that the Catholic church of his parish was so
completely out of repair as to require almost a total renovation. That
he had been encouraged by the character he had heard of me to appeal to
my generous and charitable disposition for a subscription towards
rendering the church suitable and safe for his numerous poor
parishioners. I was inclined at the time to have a little fun with his
reverence, and said, "Well, sir, when you have your church repaired, I
suppose you will make it as available as possible to the religious and
moral improvement of your people."
"Certainly, sir; we shall endeavour to do so."
"You will urge them to abstain from fighting and killing each other,
from administering unlawful oaths, serving threatening notices, burning
houses, houghing cattle, or plundering firearms, and even from excessive
drinking."
"Assuredly, sir, it will be our duty to do so."
"So you come to me, to persuade me to cut the ground from under my own
feet, by subscribing to further your acknowledged intentions. I am a
prosecuting counsel on this circuit, and on the table before you I have
a profitable assortment of murders, conspiracies, and attempts to
murder, abductions, threatening notices, and faction-fights. You would
render my vocation worthless by inculcating the observance of law and
order, quietude, and temperance. It would be much more reasonable that I
should be asked to subscribe to a society for the distribution of
blunderbusses and pistols."
"Oh!" exclaimed the astonished priest, "may heaven grant that I shall
never again hear such expressions from human lips."
"Well," said I, "suppose we effect a compromise. You expected to get a
pound from me. Will you let the poor Crown prosecutor off for
half-a-sovereign?"
"Mr. Porter," said he, "I now feel convinced that you were jesting; for,
if you really felt as you spoke, you would not give me a farthing."
I gave him the half-sovereign. We walked together to "The Ormond," where
we had some biscuits and wine, and parted on most friendly terms.
For a considerable time previous to my retirement from the Leinster Bar
we had a junior member of that body whose name it is unnecessary to
mention fully. He had been the adjunct or drudge of an attorney-general,
and was consequently known amongst us by the designation of "Tom the
Devil." I have heard that in his earlier years he had been a midshipman
on board the "Orwell," a splendid ship belonging to the East India
Company, and that for some special service which he undertook and
accomplished under most dangerous circumstances, the Directors had
allotted him a reward of one thousand guineas, on the acquirement of
which he returned home to Ireland, and applied himself to the legal
profession. He was greatly liked amongst us, and none relished his
society more than I did. He frequently became my chum on circuit, and on
one occasion, at Clonmel, he asked me to convey, in reference to a
personal quarrel, the most liberal offer perhaps ever made to an
adversary. There was an individual whose conduct and character were by
no means questionable, as they were fully ascertained to be thoroughly
disreputable, and he came to our lodgings whilst I was ordering
breakfast. He was accompanied by another person who had been concerned,
as a second, in a recent hostile meeting, and he stated that he wished
to have an interview with Mr. ----, meaning my chum, "Tom the Devil,"
who was still in bed in a small adjoining room. I went to the door and
said, "Tom, here is Mr. ----, who wants to see you." He jumped up, and
without adding any other garment to his night-shirt, put his feet in his
slippers and entered the sitting-room; then turning to the applicant he
said, "What do you want with me?"
"Mr. W----," was the reply, "I have been informed that on several
occasions you have insinuated various matters prejudicial to my
character, personal and professional; and I deemed it necessary to have
a direct explanation as to whether you have expressed such injurious
insinuations."
Tom replied, "You have been altogether misinformed. I can solemnly
affirm, indeed I can safely swear, that I never breathed any
_insinuation_ whatever respecting you." The other bowed and seemed
evidently gratified, but Tom continued, "I admit that I have spoken of
you, but not indirectly. I have not hinted or insinuated, but plainly
stated that I considered you a low, mean, ignorant, pettifogging
blackguard. That is my explanation; and now, sir, if you will only wait
until I draw on my boots, I shall feel much pleasure in kicking you down
stairs."
I stepped forward, and implored the interrogating party and his friend
to retire. I said that the apartment was mine, and that I would not
allow any further altercation there. I succeeded in getting them away,
and then I said to my candid chum, "This is a most unpleasant affair to
occur in my presence. It may be highly injurious to me, for it will
produce a challenge and a hostile meeting."
"He wont fight," observed Tom. "They are gone down the street, and as
you are dressed, slip on your hat, and follow them. Tell the rascal to
make no further row here, but to start at once for Milford, where I'll
meet him. Tell him that my brother gave me forty pounds yesterday, and
if he fights me I'll give him twenty, and, by ----, _I'll pay for his
funeral into the bargain_."
I declined carrying this liberal offer. I may add that there was no
challenge sent, and the party against whom there had been _no
insinuation_ immediately retired from the profession. I cannot call to
mind any further reminiscences connected with the Leinster Circuit. I
regret that, whilst I was a member of it, I did not keep a regular
diary.
In the foregoing pages I have mentioned occurrences and personal
observations incident to my sojourns in France, Germany, Spain, and
England. In all the cities which I visited, I found the people by no
means indifferent to the reputation of their respective localities, or
disposed to impress strangers with the opinion, that they had arrived in
a place where vulgarity, dishonesty, and brutal violence habitually
prevailed; and where to the worst and most appalling crimes there had
been publicly accorded
"A local habitation and a name."
It would seem specially reserved for Dublin, my native city, to record
by public inscriptions, and to insert in the list of our metropolitan
thoroughfares, that within the municipal precincts there may be found a
COW-PARLOUR, a PIGTOWN, a CHEATER'S LANE, a STONEYBATTER, a CUTTHROAT
LANE, and a MURDERING LANE. It may be said that these places are mostly
of small dimensions, but they appear in Thom's Official Directory in the
same type, and fully as conspicuous to the eye of a stranger as the most
populous and important of our streets or squares. Within my memory
Skinner Row has been metamorphosed into Christchurch Place, Dirty Lane
has become Bridgefoot Street, half of Exchequer Street has been
converted into Wicklow street, and French Street has been elevated into
Upper Mercer Street. Surely the same authority that effected such
alterations ought to substitute other names for those which cannot be
retained without continuing to impute to our city that it contains
places specially appropriated to low, vulgar, dishonest, and sanguinary
practices. During my tenure of magisterial office I found the city of
Dublin capable of very favorable comparison with any other place of
similar extent and population; and I consider the names to which I have
referred most unjustifiably false and defamatory. The designation of one
of our bridges has lately been changed, and it is to be henceforth made
conducive to the memory of Grattan. The motives of those who proposed
such an alteration were undoubtedly patriotic and praiseworthy; but
identifying the truly illustrious orator and statesman with a bridge
across the Liffey, will not, in the present state of the river, tend to
keep his name in _good odour_.
Since my return home I have lived in such retirement and quietude that I
cannot refer to any incident worthy of insertion in these pages. In
concluding these "Recollections," I have to assure my readers that I
have sedulously endeavoured to minister to their information or
amusement. If I have succeeded, their approval will impart great
happiness to the closing years of my life; and having done my utmost, I
trust that they will accord me a favorable criticism, for which I shall
be deeply grateful.
PORTEOUS AND GIBBS, Printers, 18 Wicklow-street, Dublin.
* * * * *
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THE
ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE
OF IRELAND
ANTERIOR TO THE ANGLO-NORMAN INVASION;
COMPRISING
AN ESSAY ON THE ORIGIN AND USES
OF THE
+Round Towers of Ireland+,
_To which, was awarded the Gold Medal and Prize of the
Royal Irish Academy_.
BY
GEORGE PETRIE, R.H.A.
FORMERLY VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY.
This is admittedly one of the most valuable contributions on the
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THE
EFFICACY OF PRAYER:
BEING THE
Donnellan Lectures for the Year 1877
_Delivered in Trinity College, Dublin_.
BY
JOHN H. JELLETT, B.D.
SENIOR FELLOW OF TRINITY COLLEGE, DUBLIN.
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