CHOLERA: AN IMPATIENT PATIENT; GOOD NEWS! ONLY TYPHUS FEVER--ROYAL
VISITS--SCOTCH SUPERIORITY STRONGLY ASSERTED--A POLICE BILL
STIGMATISED--LEAVE OF ABSENCE--THE RHINE--THE RHINELAND.
Leaving to my readers, without any comment from myself, the
consideration of the statements and sentiments contained in the extracts
from the French author, I pass to the year 1849, which certainly
afforded a most agreeable contrast to its immediate predecessor in the
almost total cessation of political agitations and asperities. The only
regrettable circumstance to which my recollections of the latter year
can revert being the appearance of cholera in Dublin, early in April,
and its continuance, with intermitting violence, until October. It was
far less prevalent than it had been in 1832, and, in almost every
instance, the disease was ascribed to the use of fish, fruit, acid
drinks, or habitual intemperance. In the great majority of cases ardent
spirits were administered; and the police were frequently complained to
by officers of health and other sanitary officials who had been called
on to relieve pretended sufferings, in the expectation of brandy or
whisky being promptly afforded. Occasionally, on being refused the
coveted dram, the mock sufferer became at once invigorated, and
addressed abusive language and threats of personal violence to "the
cholera fellow." Some instances of opprobrious and menacing expressions
were brought by summons under my cognizance, and for such I prescribed a
month's sojourn in the Richmond Bridewell, unless the delinquent found
two good and substantial sureties for his good behaviour. One of these
summonses was reported, I believe by Mr. Dunphy, in the _Freeman's
Journal_. It was described as "an affair in which a patient became
impatient, because he was not _stimulated_ when he _simulated_."
My residence at Roundtown was not far from a range of small cottages
occupied by the laboring class. One of our female servants alarmed my
family by stating that the cholera was very nigh, for that she had seen
five poor people taken off to hospital from the cottages near the
quarry. I mentioned her statement to a police sergeant, and requested
him to enquire if it was correct. In about half an hour, he returned and
said, "Your worship, I have good news for you. The cholera has not come
near you: it is only the typhus fever."
ROYAL VISITS.
In 1849, Dublin had the honor of a Royal visit, which was regarded by
all classes as a most gratifying event. On the 5th of August, her
Majesty Queen Victoria arrived in Kingstown Harbour, accompanied by
Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, the Princess Royal, Prince Alfred,
and the Princess Alice. The _Victoria and Albert_ yacht was escorted by
ten war steamers, and the squadron anchored about eight o'clock in the
evening. The Queen made a public entry into Dublin on the following day,
and remained in Ireland until the 10th. Having a perfect recollection of
George the Fourth's visit in 1821, I presume to say that the reception
of Victoria was most respectful and cordial, and did not indicate the
slightest approach to sycophantic adulation. I would not apply the same
terms in describing the popular demonstrations which her uncle's visit
produced; for if ever a community manifested unanimous servility and
insane enthusiasm, it was when his Irish subjects accorded to George the
Fourth a homage almost idolatrous. Both visits occurred in the same
month, but with an interval of twenty-eight years. I hope that I shall
not be deemed too discursive in mentioning that the King was received by
the municipal authorities, with the usual ceremonies, at the northern
end of Upper Sackville Street, where a gate had been constructed for his
admission; and over the external side there appeared a very conspicuous
inscription, derived from the sixth book of Virgil's Æneid--
"Hic vir, hic est, tibi quem promitti sæpius audis,
Augustus."[9]
The meaning of this quotation did not seem a difficult attainment, even
to those who had never previously seen a Latin word. It was generally
construed by such persons, "Here he is; it is all right; he has come, as
he promised, in August."
It was during the King's sojourn at the Viceregal Lodge in the Phoenix
Park, that an anecdote became current of a question having been
addressed by him to an Irish footman as to whether there was any person
in the establishment who understood German? to which the interrogated
domestic replied, "Please your Majesty, I don't know anyone who spakes
Jarman, but I have a brother who plays the Jarman flate."
In 1849, when it became known that Queen Victoria would visit Dublin, a
great influx of the nobility and gentry was reasonably expected. The
city became also very attractive to persons of a different and
objectionable description. Great numbers of mendicants arrived, and the
increase of beggars on our streets became most disagreeably apparent.
The Commissioners of Police immediately told off constables in plain
clothes on the special duty of repressing the nuisance, and so vigilant
and active were they, that our thoroughfares were less infested by
beggars during the Royal visit than I ever knew them to be at any other
period. The committals were generally for ten or fourteen days; and many
of the vagrants were by no means slow in attributing their confinement
to special orders from the Queen herself to have the beggars locked up
while she was in Dublin. A woman, who was committed by me for a
fortnight on a conviction for mendicancy, exclaimed, as she was leaving
the police-court, "Mr. Porter is sending us to jail in hopes of getting
himself made Sir Frank."
During the Queen's progress through the city on the 6th of August, the
whole line of the procession was densely crowded, the windows were
occupied, and banners, emblematic of respect and welcome, abundantly
displayed; and she was universally hailed with enthusiastic shouts of
applause. In the evening there was a general and most brilliant
illumination. The whole day passed without the slightest tumult or
accident, until about eleven o'clock at night, when the vast crowds were
dispersed by the heaviest rain that I ever witnessed in Ireland. The
shower lasted about an hour. During the succeeding four days, Her
Majesty visited the principal public institutions, and held a levee in
Dublin Castle, the most numerous and influential that had ever been
assembled there, and a drawing-room which exhibited an unprecedented
display of rank, fashion, and beauty. On the 10th of August, she
embarked at Kingstown, amidst the acclamations of assembled thousands,
and sailed for England. She afforded signal acknowledgments of her
appreciation of the reception she had experienced from her Irish
subjects, for on leaving the pier at Kingstown, she ordered the Royal
standard to be lowered and raised again on board the Royal yacht, a mark
of honor never before employed except for a Royal personage. In a short
time after her visit of 1849, she created her eldest son Earl of Dublin.
SCOTCH SUPERIORITY STRONGLY ASSERTED.
Several months elapsed after the exciting and gratifying demonstrations
to which I have last adverted, during which time we had profound
quietude, and a total cessation of political turmoils. I cannot
recollect any incident, public or official, which I would consider worth
a reader's notice. I shall mention, however, that there was then here an
individual character with whom I had occasional communication, and from
whom I derived considerable amusement almost every time we met. He was a
man of high military rank, holding an important garrison appointment.
Kind, courteous, and affable, he had, nevertheless, some extraordinary
prejudices, which I took every opportunity to induce him to express. He
was a Scotchman, who insisted that his country and its people were
superior to every other region and race, and who did not hesitate to
disparage any attempt to assign even an equality with the Scotch to the
natives of any other kingdom. His greatest explosions of indignation
seemed specially reserved for a comparison, if at all favourable, of the
Irish with the Scotch. Consequently, I boldly ascribed a manifest
superiority to my countrymen over his in intelligence, integrity,
diligence, neatness, promptitude of action, and all other estimable
qualities which could be evinced in either peaceful or martial
avocations; so that I was sure to produce a denial of all my statements,
and a suggestion that I should never repeat them without blushing. Still
I persevered, and enjoyed the excitement which my expressions elicited.
A few days before he left Dublin we had a conference, and, as usual, I
boasted of Burke, Grattan, Curran, Goldsmith, Moore, Sheridan,
Wellington, Gough, &c. He insisted that Scotland could produce equal or
perhaps superior characters, if she had the opportunity. I remarked that
even when Irishmen engaged in nefarious criminal pursuits, they evinced
superior dexterity, and that our thieves were peculiarly knowing and
adroit. "Your thieves!" he exclaimed, "I'll be d----d if we haven't
thieves in Edinburgh or Glasgow that your Dublin fellows couldn't hold a
candle to."
A POLICE BILL STIGMATISED.
In the session of Parliament of 1850, a bill was brought in by the
Government for the revision and consolidation of the acts regulating the
Dublin Metropolitan Police. It was printed, and a considerable number of
copies were circulated in Dublin. We regarded it as a most desirable
measure, for it would, if passed, have substituted, a simplified code
for an involved and complicated hotch-potch of seven statutes
containing about four hundred sections. The police authorities were
extremely anxious for the success of the proposed bill, but it was
objected to by others, delayed, and ultimately, at the close of the
session, became one of the sufferers in the "Massacre of the Innocents."
Whilst it was pending, an alderman made it the subject, at a meeting of
the Corporation, of a most condemnatory speech. He stigmatised it as
unconstitutional and tyrannical, and dwelt at considerable length on a
section which would impart power to a divisional magistrate, in case
dealers in certain commodities neglected or refused to comply with a
notice to produce any article in their possession, alleged to have been
stolen, to inflict on the person so neglecting or refusing, a penalty of
_twenty pounds_, and in default of payment of such penalty, to commit
the offender for _two months_. He indignantly demanded from what region
of despotism had such a tyrannical proposition been imported, and
declared that it would disgrace any legislature to enact, or any
executive to enforce, such unconstitutional severity. He was spared the
mortification of seeing such power imparted to a police magistrate. The
obnoxious bill was not passed, and the law remained unaltered. By it the
tyrannical penalty is only _fifty pounds_, with an alternative
imprisonment of merely _six months_. I do not believe, however, that
there has ever been an instance of such a penalty being exacted or such
imprisonment inflicted.
LEAVE OF ABSENCE.
In the year 1851 my magisterial duties, which did not indeed afford any
incident worthy of being particularized, were interrupted by a severe
attack of gastric fever; on my recovery from which, I was directed by my
medical attendant to proceed to Wiesbaden, and take such baths and drink
such mineral waters as should be prescribed by a certain English
physician residing there, Dr. Lewis. I waited on the Chief Secretary,
Sir William Somerville, who subsequently became Lord Athlumney, and
requested leave of absence for a month or six weeks. He took a printed
form of reply, directed it to me, and signed it. By this document I was
granted "leave of absence for ----." On remarking to him that he had not
specified the duration of the indulgence, the worthy gentleman was
pleased to compliment me by saying, "I have left a blank for the time.
Go, and stay until your health and strength are completely renovated,
and fill up the blank at your return. You are deserving of the most
favourable treatment." I record with gratitude and pride such an
acknowledgment of my anxious endeavours to discharge my official duties
with efficiency; but I must also say that kindness and benignity were
amongst his prominent characteristics. I left Dublin at the latter end
of May, and proceeded through London to Ostend, and from thence by
railway to Bonn, where I commenced ascending "the wide and winding
Rhine." Whilst waiting at the wharf for the steamer, and contemplating
"The castled crag of Drachenfels," I thought of Byron's lines, in which
he describes the scenery which appeared so enchanting to Childe Harold,
and also how
"Peasant girls with deep blue eyes,
And hands which offer early flowers,
Walk smiling o'er this paradise;"
and I felt that the landscape before me transcended even his
description. I had, however, the greatest contrast offered to my view so
far as regarded eyes, hands, or smiles. Four females approached with
flowers, which they desired to sell. They were all old women, and they
constituted, in their features and figures, the most complete
realization of hideous ugliness. It is not my intention to attempt any
description of the scenes which successively astonished and delighted me
whilst proceeding up the Rhine from Bonn to Mentz. I would fully adopt
the unexaggerated truth contained in four short lines--
"The river nobly foams and flows,
The charm of this enchanted ground,
And all its thousand turns disclose
Some fresher beauties varying round."
I found the steamer extremely convenient and most agreeable, especially
for a person debilitated by severe and recent indisposition. I do not
recollect the charges for conveyance or refreshments, but I considered
them moderate, and relished my repasts greatly, whether as regarded
their materials, culinary preparation, or table attendance. The few
hotels at which I stopped were very comfortable in every respect. At the
Giant Hotel, Coblentz, I observed that the delicious wine, sparkling
Moselle, was given for a Rhenish florin and a half, (two shillings and
sixpence,) per bottle, and that Guinness's Dublin Porter was precisely
the same price there. I have heard some Germans, who understood English,
remark on the designation almost universally given to the Rhenish wines
by us. The vineyards are nearly all on places considerably elevated, and
the names of the wines have generally the prefix of "High." The German
word is "Hoch," and they give it a guttural pronunciation which the
Irish and Scotch can utter perfectly, but which an Englishman cannot
accomplish. He hardens "hoch" into "hock," and adopts the prefix alone
as the name of the exhilarating fluid, and we follow his example. The
mistake, however, is perfectly harmless, for the abbreviation has not
lessened the production, or deteriorated the flavor of the liquor.
At Coblentz, I saw in a square before a church, the name of which I do
not remember, a monument with two inscriptions, the first of which I
considered indicative of silly and premature pride, whilst the second
formed an instance of a complete junction of wit and wisdom. In 1812,
when the French had occupied Moscow, the prefect of Coblentz erected the
monument and inscribed it thus--
AN. MDCCCXII.
MEMORABLE PAR LA CAMPAGNE
CONTRE LES RUSSES,
SOUS LA PREFECTURE DE JULES DOAZAN.[10]
In 1814 the fortunes of war had necessitated the retreat of the French
before the allied forces, and Coblentz was occupied by the Russians.
Instead of demolishing the memorable record of the previous campaign,
the Russian commander of the force, by which the town was captured,
caused a supplementary statement to be added, which clearly showed the
complete change of affairs. The addition was as follows:--
VU ET APPROUVE PAR NOUS, COMMANDANT RUSSE DE LA VILLE
DE COBLENTZ. 1 JAN. 1814.[11]
The people of Coblentz appeared to enjoy drawing a stranger's notice to
these inscriptions, and it was easy to perceive that they considered the
annexation of the Rhenish provinces to France, by the first Napoleon, as
not merely objectionable, but detestable and insufferable. I believe
that the same sentiments pervaded every part of Germany, which had been
under the rule or in the occupation of the French. As far as my sojourn
in Germany enabled me to form an opinion, I thought that the people
liked the English very much, and thoroughly disliked the French. I found
them most friendly, and on several occasions when I have wished to
procure fruit, and produced money, pointing at the same time to apple,
pear, or plum trees, in the _unfenced_ gardens and orchards near
Wiesbaden, the tree would be shaken, and signs made to me to pick up the
fallen fruits, and money would be declined. This kindness was accorded
to me because I was deemed an Englishman. I do not believe that an apple
would have been gratuitously tendered to a Frenchman. In the places of
public amusement, I repeatedly heard a certain lively tune played. It
seemed to be decidedly popular, and I was informed that it owed its
popularity to the fact of having been the quick-step to which the
Prussians advanced upon the flank of the French army at the close of the
battle of Waterloo.
In the preceding paragraph, I have mentioned unfenced gardens and
orchards. I have passed along roads in the Rhenish land where, for five
or six miles, there were no fences whatever between the highway and
grounds appropriated to the culture of choice fruits and vegetables, and
where no hedge, wall, or ditch intervened to distinguish or separate one
holding from another. The bounds were marked by poles, on the tops of
which bits of straw or dried rushes were placed; but even such marks
were not considered necessary at the edges of the public thoroughfare.
Of course, in those districts grazing was impracticable. No sheep or
goats were to be seen, no horses, unless such as were yoked or saddled;
and the food for the cows was usually conveyed, in the morning and
evening, from the place of its production, in a cart drawn by one of
themselves. The summer feeding for the cattle consisted of clover,
Italian rye-grass, Lucern, American cow-grass, or vetches. I observed
that the fodder was cut and left lying sufficiently long to become
flagged before it was given to the animals. The tillage in those
districts presented a great contrast to the generality of Irish crops.
Neatness and cleanliness characterized the German culture, and the weeds
were excluded from the partnership which is so liberally accorded to
them here. Near Wiesbaden, I saw a very flourishing crop, which
occupied, in my opinion, about two acres, and I was informed by Dr.
Greiss, that the elevation of the place above sea-level was 2400 ft. The
growth was tobacco, for the production of which our soil and climate are
as well suited as those in which the Germans cultivate it. There it is
taxed, or, as I believe, taken by the Government at a valuation, and
made an Imperial monopoly. Here it is prohibited, to form, perhaps, a
very apt and forcible illustration of the principle of Free Trade.
The springs at Wiesbaden are not numerous, but they constitute great
natural curiosities. There is one which, if I remember rightly, is
called the Kochbrunnen. It is intensely hot; and I was told that even in
winter, the water is used for scalding the hair off slaughtered pigs.
It gushes up profusely; and yet, within fifty yards of it, there is a
spring extremely cold and effervescent, precisely similar to the Seltzer
water. Whilst the Roman empire continued, almost all the Rhineland was
appurtenant to it, and Wiesbaden was then designated "Mattiacæ aquæ." It
is believed that Nero visited it for the benefit of his health; and
there is a locality close to the town, where he is said to have
sojourned, and which is named Nerothal, (Nero's valley.) Some ancient
edifices have Latin inscriptions denoting their former use or the names
of their pristine occupants. The Germans take special care of such
antique remains; and instead of destroying relics of heathenism, they
show them as indicating a state of darkness and degradation to which
Christianity offers the greatest and most glorious contrast. In
reference to the gratitude of their votaries to Pagan deities for
benefits attributed to the exercise of their peculiar powers, I only
recollect one mythological inscription, which I was prevented from
forgetting by a ludicrous comment on it, made by a Manchester visitant
at Wiesbaden. In the Ræmerbad, (Roman bath,) there was a mural tablet in
perfect preservation, every letter on the stone being as distinct as
when cut many centuries ago. It was as follows:--
"ÆSCULAPIO SANATORI, MILITES QUATUORDECIMÆ LEGIONIS, OB
VALETUDINEM RESTAURTAM, HANC TABULAM VOTIVAM.
D.D.D."
The Manchester gent and I had become acquainted at the _table d'hôte_ of
the "Four Seasons," and we happened to stroll into the Ræmerbad at the
same time. Pointing to the mural tablet, he said--
"Mr. Porter, they say that is Latin."
"Yes," I replied, "you have been rightly informed."
"Could you untwist it, and tell us what it is about?"
"I shall try. To Æsculapius the healer, the soldiers of the fourteenth
legion, in consequence of their health being restored, give, inscribe,
and dedicate this votive tablet."
"Good heavens!" he exclaimed, "those chaps were wide awake; and they
knew how to pay a nice compliment, for of course this Skewlaypius _was
their regimental doctor_."
I regretted that there was not another tablet extant declaratory of
their veneration and devotion to Mars, for it would have elicited the
interesting suggestion that his military rank was, at least, that of a
colonel.
I recollect seeing on an ancient tower of octagonal form, near
Andernach, an inscription, in reference to which I heard many
conjectures, and some of them extremely absurd. It was as follows:--
"SISTE PAULULUM, AMBULA PAULULUM, SEDERE VETITUM EST, ET
DORMIRE EST MORI."[12]
The conclusion at which I arrived was, that immediately beneath this
direction a sentinel's station had been established, and that whether he
stood, or walked "his lonely round," he was to bear in mind that to
slumber on his post was inexcusable, and subjected him to the forfeiture
of life.
One day I sat, in the large dining-room of the Four Seasons, near a
noble lord who, with his lady, had been there for some weeks. She was a
native of Germany, and he was an Irishman who possessed extensive
estates in a southern county. I heard him say to a gentleman, who was
recommending him to visit Frankfort-on-the-Maine, that he could not
adopt his suggestion, as he was obliged to start for home on the next
day but one. That evening I was speaking to the landlord, and mentioned
that I had heard my noble countryman tell his friend that he was about
to leave. The landlord replied, "I am delighted to hear that they are
going, for _her other husband_ is to be here next week, and their
meeting would be rather unpleasant, especially as he is bringing _his
other wife_."
At a short distance from Wiesbaden, the road to Schlangenbad (the
serpent's bath) passes through a portion of a very extensive forest. In
one of my rambles, I left the highway, and walked into the dense wood,
and when I thought that I had gone far enough, and that it was time to
return, I became suddenly aware that I had lost my way. In a state of
extreme uneasiness I walked for more than an hour, frequently shouting,
but without hearing any responsive voice. Dismal ideas arose in my mind
as to the probability of having to meet dangers and privations beyond my
power of resistance or endurance. At length I found that there was a
hill before me, on which the trees were rather sparse; and having
attained the elevation, I was relieved from my apprehensions by a
glimpse of the Rhine, and immediately directed my steps towards the
river, and soon emerged from the forest. If any of my readers should
contemplate a visit to any place in the vicinity of extensive woods,
they will avoid all liability to such annoyance as I suffered, by
refraining from solitary forest rambles, and by taking such excursions
with a guide, or with companions acquainted with the localities. Before
I left Wiesbaden, a young gentleman named Vernon was found dead in the
Taunus forest. His death was attributed to the bite of an adder or
viper.
In the Kursahl, at Wiesbaden, there was a _Roulette_ table, and also one
for _Rouge et Noir_. The gambling was not considered at all comparable
to the play at Baden-Baden; nevertheless, I have seen many instances of
serious, perhaps of ruinous losses. On one occasion I observed an
Englishman who sat down at the _Rouge et Noir_ table. He had a large
leathern purse full of gold, and certainly more than one thousand pounds
in Bank of England notes of fifty pounds each. In less than an hour, all
his money was absorbed, and some exclamations, garnished with
imprecations, as he retired, impressed me with the opinion that he was
reduced to destitution. Whilst I express the warmest approval of the
abolition of those gambling establishments, and their recent suppression
in the German towns, I must admit having tried my luck occasionally to
the extent of four florins (about six shillings and eightpence.) In
almost every instance the remorseless rake added my stake to the
accumulations of "the bank." On the last evening that I was at the
Kursahl, I went in a party of nine persons, of whom six were ladies. One
of my fair companions proposed that each of us should contribute four
florins, and stake the amount on red. This was acceded to, and I stepped
forward and placed the money on the colour. The bystanders were
numerous, and when it was announced that the red had won, I picked up
the seventy-two florins, but whilst doing so, I heard an exclamation
from one end of the crowd--"That would be a nice story to tell at the
Dublin police-office."
During my stay at Wiesbaden, I visited Mentz, or Mayence, several times.
On the first occasion, I was crossing the bridge from the right bank of
the Rhine, and met a young officer in Austrian uniform. At that period
Mentz was termed a Confederate town, and its garrison was composed of an
equal number of Prussian and Austrian troops. I had seen enough of them
at Wiesbaden to satisfy me that an inquiry on the part of a stranger
would receive a kind and polite reply. I consequently accosted the
gentleman in French, being quite destitute of German beyond the name of
the place to which I wished to go, which was the Music Garden. To my
surprise and great gratification, he said, "If it is the same thing to
you, Mr. Porter, to speak English, I shall give you any information in
my power." I told him that I wanted a direction to the Music Garden, and
he replied, "I have to leave an order with the officer on guard at the
Cassel end of the bridge, and then I shall return to my quarters, and
the Music Garden is on the way, I shall show it to you in a few
minutes." During our walk, I asked him how he knew my name, and was
informed that he remembered seeing me at the assizes of Nenagh; that he
was a "Tipperary boy," born and reared within sight of the Devil's Bit
Mountain, and his name was Scully. He was a captain in an infantry
regiment, and appeared to be perfectly contented with his position and
its attendant prospects. We thoroughly fraternized, and I never again
went to Mentz without calling at his quarters. He expressed an intention
of visiting Ireland, and promised to favor me with a renewal of our
friendly intercourse in Dublin; but my hopes of seeing him have not been
realized, and I fear that he has not escaped all the disastrous combats
in which, since 1851, the Austrian forces have been engaged.
Nothing tends more to render a sojourn in the Rhineland agreeable, than
the great number of persons connected with hotels, railways, steamers,
and other public establishments, who understand English. Indeed I may
extend the observation to Belgium also. A foreigner in Dublin, if he is
unacquainted with our language, has to encounter more difficulties than
we would have to contend with in the places to which I have referred.
This is to be regretted; for exquisitely beautiful as Rhenish, Swiss, or
Italian scenery may be justly considered, still Ireland can present to a
foreign tourist, views numerous and extensive, which cannot be surpassed
in picturesque beauty. I have never met a foreigner who had seen the
principal places of attraction in our country, who was not most
enthusiastic in his expressions of admiration. Our insular position is
no longer a serious obstacle to the traveller who may wish to visit even
the most remote districts; and it is to be hoped that at no distant time
Ireland shall be far better known by strangers. They should be
encouraged by the most respectful and attentive treatment; and when we
find that in the Mechanics' Institute of Dublin, a member will be
instructed in French, German, or Italian, at the very moderate charge of
six shillings per quarter, it is not creditable to our trading and
operative classes that they should not attain to educational
acquirements equal to those possessed by a considerable number of the
same classes in several continental countries. Although I am a Dublin
man, I regret that I must admit the superiority of Cork as regards the
means of satisfactory communication with foreigners, understanding them
and being understood.
Before I close my observations on the very interesting portion of
Germany in which I had so agreeable a sojourn, I shall relate a couple
of incidents from which my readers may form an idea as to the honest
tendencies of the people. I spent an evening, along with some of my
Wiesbaden associates, at the Music Garden of Mentz, and the weather
being rather close and sultry, I took off a waterproof overcoat, and
laid it on a rockery just beside our refreshment table. When the musical
performances and other amusements had terminated, I departed without
recollecting the garment, and arrived at Wiesbaden before I became aware
of my forgetfulness. Next morning I set off to Mentz to try my chance of
recovering the vestment, but with very slight hopes of succeeding. At
the garden, a person connected with the establishment, on being informed
of my business, said, in English, "Come to the place where you threw off
your overcoat, and you will most probably find it." Accordingly, when we
reached the rockery, I saw the coat lying where I placed it, and having
possessed myself of it, observed to my conductor that I was extremely
lucky, for unquestionably more than one thousand persons must have
passed the spot on the previous evening. "Oh, yes," replied the German;
"the garden was crowded, but there was not a man here who saw your coat
lying there, _without knowing that it was not his_."
At Biebrich, the office of the steamers plying on the Rhine is in a
house on the quay. It faces the south, but abuts the public thoroughfare
without any rails or other fence. On the front wall there were two
vines, on which there was an abundant crop of grapes; and on the day of
my departure, whilst waiting for the steamer, I remarked to the agent
that his fruit was almost ripe, and that it appeared to be of first-rate
quality. He said that another week would suffice to ripen them
perfectly, and that they were of very fine flavor. I observed that there
was a strong temptation for his neighbours, and even for the casual
passengers who walked the quay, to assume a partnership in such
desirable productions. He seemed surprised at my observation, and told
me that no person would interfere with his vines, adding, "The grapes
will be all left for me to gather. They have never been taken by anyone
else, _for they are grown on my wall, and are mine_." I do not think
that in any part of the United Kingdom there would be the slightest
chance of fruit grown in a similar public situation, and unprotected by
a strong fence, being left to the enjoyment of its owner, or even
allowed to ripen.
FOOTNOTES:
[9]
Here is the man; here you may now behold
Augustus, promised oft, and long foretold.
[10] The year 1812. Memorable by the campaign against the Russians,
during the prefecture of Jules Doazan.
[11] Seen and approved by me, the Russian commander of Coblentz, 1st
Jan. 1814.
[12] "Stand awhile, walk awhile, to sit down is forbidden, and to sleep
is to die."