SAILING INTO THE FJORD.--ASCENT OF PAYER’S PEAK.--DISCOVERY
OF PETERMANN PEAK.--THE RETURN VOYAGE DECIDED ON.[90]
Cape Franklin passed.--Entrance into the Fjord.--Magnificent
scenery of the Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord.--The
Teufelschloss (Devil’s Castle).--Interminable branchings of
the Fjord.--Great depth of the Fjord.--Payer’s, Copeland’s,
and Ellinger’s mountain ascent and Glacier journey on 12th
of August.--Condition of the Germania’s boilers.--A second
wintering not in accordance with our strict instructions to
avoid risk.--Our return to Germany decided on.--Erection of a
memorial cairn at the anchorage of the Germania.--The Germania
aground.--Cause of the numerous drifting icebergs near the
coast-land.
During our absence the crew of the Germania had been much troubled with
the floating ice, which at times was driven in great masses round the
Cape; so that Sengstacke was obliged to bring the ship nearer to land.
With this exception all had gone on well.
The weather remained fine and clear, with a light west wind; we weighed
anchor, and at ten a.m. steamed through the advancing masses of loose
land-ice towards the newly discovered Fjord. At first, we had some
trouble to steer our way through it; but after passing Bennet’s
peninsula the water was more open, and at five p.m. we passed Cape
Franklin and ran into the Fjord.
What strange feelings arose within us as we advanced into these lonely
waters, as yet uncleft by the keel of any vessel.
At first we steered along the northern bank of the Fjord, stretching
in a west-north-westerly direction, and afterwards changing to a
north-westerly; but as we noticed a larger branch dividing into several
arms running westward, we decided upon following that first, as it
would most likely take us deeper into the interior.
Lieutenant Payer gives the following excellent description of this
wonderful district:--“We had entered a basin, the shores of which were
formed by rocks, which for glorious form and colour I had never seen
equalled. Here were congregated all the peculiarities of the Alpine
world: huge walls, deep erosion-fissures, wild peaks, mighty crevassed
glaciers, raging torrents, and waterfalls; which in Europe, as a rule,
come but singly. All these pictures of wild beauty were taken in at a
glance. To me the impression given by the high towering rocky mountains
of the basin was that of some fairy tale. A colossal cubic rock on the
small basis of a tongue of land stretched itself far into the Fjord,
rising out of the blue water to a height of at least 5600 feet; regular
reddish-yellow, black, and light stripes, showing the different layers
of the stone. The terraces and towers on its edges resembled a ruined
castle; we therefore called it the Devil’s Castle.
“Never in the Alps had I seen anything even approaching this in
grandeur. Here a diminutive Matterhorn rose straight from the water;
there rushed a huge mass of water from some glacier over the giant
walls deep down into the clear quiet water below.
[Illustration: London. Sampson Low, Marston, Low, & Searle.
188 Fleet Street.
THE DEVIL’S CASTLE]
[Illustration: REGENERATED GLACIER IN EMPEROR FRANZ-JOSEPH’S
FJORD.]
“Day and night we stayed on deck, every moment bringing some
astonishing scene, conjuring up as it were some natural wonder, our
astonished eyes wandering from one point to the other. No sound but
that of the monotonous click of the machinery and the rushing of
the keel-water broke the solemn stillness. The transparency of the
atmosphere showed up every individual feature, and the morning sun
warmed the blue air pleasantly, in which the smoke from our chimney
floated in horizontal stripes.”
Further, and further we advanced; until, at last, we thought that our
discoveries had come to an end, but steering south-west towards the
“Devil’s Castle,” there suddenly opened upon us a gateway at least two
nautical miles broad, with wondrously beautiful scenery; and to the
west, another seemingly endless branch of the Fjord. For some hours
longer we continued to advance, when the engineer informed us that the
boiler leaked again, and that he must put out the fire.
On the south side of the Fjord we saw what we thought would be a good
spot to anchor, which we did in ten fathoms of water at nine a.m. on
the 11th of August.
This point, the most westerly that we reached, was in 73° 11´ 6″ N.
Lat. and 25° 58´ 6″ W. Long, from Greenwich.
We now decided upon climbing one of the higher mountains, in order that
we might have a good general view of the whole neighbourhood. This
First-Lieutenant Payer undertook to do; Dr. Copeland climbed to one of
the glaciers, to prepare some contrivance for measuring the rate of its
motion; Dr. Börgen conveyed all necessary instruments on shore; and Dr.
Pansch rambled in the neighbourhood in search of Fauna and Flora.
[Illustration:
_Page 554._
MOUNTAIN PEAK BEHIND THE GLACIERS--MORAINE IN THE FOREGROUND.]
[Illustration: END OF THE GLACIER IN EMPEROR FRANZ-JOSEPH’S
FJORD.]
An attempt to observe the tides utterly failed, on account of the
waves caused by the continual descent of icebergs. A current in any
direction, either constant or alternating, we could not, in spite of
the most careful observation, be sure of; the icebergs seeming to
drift here and there, without being subject to any settled influence,
and upon the whole changing their places but very little. A regular
rising and falling of the water was however perceptible, and, according
to the high-water mark on the shore, the tide evidently rose to
the same height as on the outer coast. The depth of the Fjord was
considerable, near the land being 100 fathoms and more, and in the
middle Mr. Sengstacke did not touch the ground with a 500 fathom line.
The surface temperature was high, and rose to 46° Fahr., but at
sixty-five fathoms it was only 34°, and still deeper it was lower. The
saltness of the water in connexion with its specific gravity, in spite
of the amount of fresh melted water, showed no difference from that of
the open sea.
The atmospheric temperature between these steep, rocky walls, which had
been so warmed from the late steady sunshine, was of course higher than
that on the outside coast. On board, where, from the cooling influence
of the melting icebergs, it was considerably colder than on land, the
mean daily temperature given was--August 11th, 48° Fahr.; August 12th,
45°; August 13th, 44°: the maximum on the 11th of August amounted to
53°, and the minimum on the same day only 42° Fahr.
Only once, on the 1st of July at noon, did the temperature, in the
winter harbour under Sabine Island, rise to 56°, and the mean daily
temperature on this our warmest day was 47½°. In August a marked
decrease is to be noticed. On Sabine Island the difference between the
two months amounted to 5.40°, and we might therefore conclude that here
in July the temperature of the interior of the Fjord must often rise
to 58° or 59° Fahr.; how otherwise can we explain the melting of the
entire winter-ice, as in the summer season the interior of the Fjord is
not exposed to the influence of the warmer sea water?
On land, in the warm months, the steady sunshine raises the warmth in
the valleys and on the mountain slopes still higher, and, for these
high latitudes, a luxuriant growth of plants shoots up rapidly. Dr.
Pansch thus describes the vegetation:--
“We found it much in the same freshness and vigour as on the higher
Alps in Switzerland. As on Clavering Island, all the mountain slopes
were green; though there were large spots of low, woody bushes, namely,
willow, birch, and bilberry. The willow was the common and only kind
met with here, the _Salix arctica_ (Pall.); and in connexion with
its very strong growth is the fact that the rings formed in the stem
every year had attained .06 of an inch, whilst, as a rule, they are not
more than from .004 to .012. Fruit we frequently met with.
[Illustration: LOWER END OF THE GLACIERS.]
“As regards the birch, thick bushes stood alongside the old moraine,
rising to the height of from two to three feet; though we could see
that in the hollows it attained even a greater height than this. The
boughs were thickly interlaced, and in the inside of the bushes mostly
leafless. That the climate agreed with this dwarf birch (_Betula
nana_, L., _var. genuina_, Regel) we could tell by the number
of catkins upon them. Later on we found that a stem of four-tenths of
an inch in diameter had sixty-seven rings.
“The commonest of all, however, was the bilberry (_Vaccinium
uliginosum_, L.) which covered the slopes, but did not grow very
high. Other striking plants were the willow herb (_Epilobium_)
and the harebells; of the latter, besides the elsewhere observed
_C. uniflora_ (L.), we found the _C. rotundifolia_ (L.),
_var. arctica_ (J. Lange), which reached a stately height. Near
it flourished the evergreen _Pyrola rotundifolia_ (L.), _var.
arenaria_ (Koch).
“Here on the slopes, at a height of from 800 to 900 feet, was the
finest and most varied vegetation; and the highest grasses and shrubs
mostly in bloom, and some bearing fruit. And as a last surprise, we
discovered the Alpine-rose (_Rhododendron lapponicum_, L.), but,
unfortunately, the blossoms were over. The same was the case with the
bearberry (_Arctostaphylos alpina_, Spreng.), of which, in spite
of all our seeking, we could only find a small bush, on which hung some
fine ripe fruit. The most interesting find, however, to us, because not
previously met with, was the moss _Grimmia lanuginosa_ (C. Müll.),
_var. arctica_.
“Besides birds, we also caught an ermine hurrying between the stones,
and saw ravens, ducks, hares, and reindeer; of the latter, near
Eleanora Bay, was a whole herd. The only traces of the natives were the
remains of store-holes and tent-rings or circles.”
On the 12th of August First-Lieutenant Payer, Dr. Copeland, and Peter
Ellinger started to climb the glacier. Payer thus describes the
excursion:--
“Our outfit consisted of climbing-irons, alpenstocks, and an
eighteen-fathom rope.
“The scenery of the valley was simple but imposing; it consisted of
massive granite walls, between which tongues of ice were pressed,
the torrents from which formed a row of beautiful waterfalls; mighty
gateways of ice, and a number of wild _seracs_, which depended
from the high glacier peaks in the background like steps. Close by, in
the glacier basin, which was about six miles broad, from a basis 3900
feet high rose an isolated pyramid of ice about 2950 feet high sheer
into the air.
“At first we kept to a tolerable path, trodden by the reindeer above
the left bank of the stream. The end of the largest valley glacier lay
875 feet above the level of the sea; and the edge of the tongue of ice,
which was covered with _débris_, was at the commencement convex,
and 2950 feet in breadth; then becoming concave, it widened to 7180
feet, and sloped, in a broken surface, down to the adjacent land.
“We took to the glacier at about 2100 feet above the sea’s level. Its
surface, like the mountain slopes, was free from snow; and the covering
of rubbish, which until now had been in one connected mass, branched
upwards into four central moraines. The prevailing colour of the ice
here is whitish green; the ice layers the same as those under similar
circumstances in the Alps. Very different, however, is the surface of
a Greenland glacier. In Europe they split upon going over any mountain
step, and the same at the junction of any streams, into a chaos of
needles and steps. Our ice, exposed to greater periodical and daily
differences of atmospheric temperature, becomes very much denser than
can be the case in Greenland, where, for the greater part of the year,
the low temperature is stationary. Hence the northern glacier-ice is
less glassy and dense, possesses greater elasticity, and greater power
of passing over steep descents without breaking.
“Numerous brooks fell spluttering over fathom-deep furrows; the
inclination was about four degrees; higher up it was more; in some
places twenty; but nowhere did we need the climbing-irons. The glacier,
however, from the numerous side streams issuing, from many points, and
even at right angles, began to be full of fissures.
“The greatest stream came from the south, flowing from a valley
surrounded by craggy granite walls. The long undulations were split
into close-lying fissures. We floundered from labyrinth to labyrinth,
and were forced to make many circuits, and, though sounding carefully,
I repeatedly sank to the shoulder, the icy spikes rattling down into
the depths like broken glass. The cords to bind us together were
indispensable, as we could never, like European Alpine parties, have
been got out of the depths. Sometimes we stood all together on a small
band of ice, surrounded by a deceitful covering of snow which concealed
a dark abyss.
[Illustration:
_Page 560._
GLACIER OF PAYER’S PEAK, AS SEEN FROM THE NORTHERN LATERAL
MORAINE.]
“In the course of my former labours in the Alps it had been granted
me many times to gaze in wonder from heights of 9000 to 12,000 feet
upon the majestic beauty of those icy uplands. But what a difference!
Throughout the whole vast prospect lay the stillness of death;
scarcely a sign of life interrupted the rough grandeur of the mountain
land. Instead of the luxuriant plains of our own Alpine valleys, with
their farms and villages, lay the dark water-surface of the Fjord 6850
feet beneath us. Countless icebergs floated on its surface, looking
in the distance like glistening pearls, and the frightful rocky walls
seemed to descend perpendicularly into it. From every mountain steep of
yonder valley descended gigantic glaciers, and from the high barrier of
ice at its lower end the stately icebergs were loosened, and carried
onward to the ocean by ebb-tide and current.
“One thing attracted our attention more than anything else, and that
was a monstrous pyramid of ice to the west, rising about 4850 feet
above a high mountain ridge. This glorious peak could bear none other
name than that of Petermann, the honoured originator of the first
German Arctic Expedition: its real height must have approached 11,000
feet.
“Along the horizon stretched an Alpine world, with countless summits,
exceeding 9700 feet. The Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord could be traced
for about forty miles towards W.S.S.
“For two hours I had been sketching and working with the theodolite
on the top of a rocky projection, and in order that I might not slip,
had taken off my shoes and stood in my stockings, although they were
wet through from the long walk in the snow, and quite frozen. This
caused me to suffer more from the cold than I had done during our
worst sleighing journeys, when the cold, at 27° Fahr.,[91] had been
unnoticed. The temperature, taken on the ship at the same time, was
44.6°, showing a decrease of 2¼° for every 700 feet of height.
“Organic life was confined to a fibrous moss (_Grimmia lanuginosa,
var. arctica_), and to the black and yellow osier (_Gyrophora
anthracina_), which are also met with on the highest points of the
Alps. We left the summit at eleven p.m., taking a new and far shorter
way back over the ridge of the mountain, and at seven a.m. reached the
ship after one and twenty hours’ absence.”
We now found that reliance could no longer be placed upon the boiler,
the machinist informing us that at the utmost it could only last
forty-eight hours. This was sad news, as all the steam power now to
be obtained must be used for reaching the outer coast; for with sails
alone in the heavy calm we should with difficulty be able to work
our way out of this rocky basin in time, and a second wintering was
expressly forbidden in our “Instructions.” Our time here, therefore,
at the latest was until the end of August, but experience had already
shown that before that time the mouth of the Fjord was blocked by a
setting in of heavy ice.
There were also many reasons against a boat-journey in the short time
we had to spare, not more than eight days; we could not, under the most
favourable circumstances, advance more than seventy-five English miles;
so that the results of a boat excursion would in nowise equal the risk
of a second wintering, which must be avoided.
Preparations were now made for departure. Opposite our anchoring-place
we erected a heap of stones, in which we laid a document recording
our discovery. We then weighed anchor and steamed in a north-easterly
direction along the Fjord. A dense fog rose, and we had to find our
way by the help of the compass, and keep a sharp look-out for icebergs.
At noon we passed the narrow pass by the Devil’s Castle, and kept
close to the land, with the intention, if possible, of anchoring in
a fine bay called Eleanor Bay, from whence we could make farther
investigation. As we rounded the south cape of the harbour, however,
the water shallowed so suddenly that we grounded, and were set fast in
the mud. During the night the tide reached its highest, and with some
exertions we floated once more, and rode at anchor until the morning,
when we steamed eastward.
At the mouth of the Fjord we found the land-ice pretty dense, and
between Cape Bennet and Bontekoe Island was such a strong barrier,
that even close under the land we could with difficulty force our way
through.
At twenty minutes past eleven p.m., on the 14th of August, three
nautical miles westward of our former anchorage, we anchored again, to
take in necessary ballast and water.
On the 15th the Captain and Mr. Sengstacke climbed the cape, which was
more than 2950 feet high, to inspect the position of the ice. To the
east the pack-ice was loose enough to steer through, particularly to
the east-north-east and south-east. Directly in the east the fields lay
denser, but still streams of water could be seen. The horizon seemed
strewn with ice. The whole of the coast to the south, as far as the eye
could see, was covered with numberless icebergs, chiefly from Kaiser
Franz-Joseph’s Fjord, which, however, never appeared upon the open sea.
The reason of this lies in the depth of the water, which, close under
the shore and in the interior of the Fjord, is much greater than it
is farther out. The same conditions are seen here as on the Norwegian
coast, where a channel of more than 200 fathoms deep runs close along
the shore, whilst but a little beyond rises the plateau of the North
Sea from thirty to forty fathoms deep. Our soundings gave analogous
results on the coast of Greenland. Under Shannon Island, only a few
miles from land, there was a depth of more than 200 fathoms, whilst
beyond there was only 100. The same showed itself near Cape Broer Ruys,
and in the Fjord itself it reached the unheard of depth of more than
500 fathoms. This is also the reason that in the Greenland seas no
icebergs are met with far from land. To the south, according to Captain
Hegemann’s report, they increase in numbers under the land, partly for
the reason that there many glaciers discharge themselves straight into
the sea, whilst farther to the north they descend only in the interior
of Fjords.