COAST VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA TOWARDS THE SOUTH.--JACKSON
ISLAND.--CAPE BROER RUYS.--BOAT JOURNEY.--EXPLORATION
OF FRANZ-JOSEPH’S FJORD.[89]
Departure from Sabine Island.--Storm from the North.--Landing
on the Eastern Cape of Jackson Island.--Excursions.--Further
progress Southwards.--Cape Broer Ruys.--Hudson’s “Hold with
Hope.”--Boat journey along the Coast to explore Mackenzie’s
Inlet.--Esquimaux huts.--Pleasures of boat-journeying.--Icebergs
to the South.--Indication of the proximity of large
Fjord.--Journey to Cape Franklin.--Payer and Copeland ascend
the point of Cape Franklin.--Discovery of Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s
Fjord.--Payer’s account of the ascent of the point of Cape
Franklin.
The next day was Sunday; and after all necessary work had been done,
the men were allowed a short holiday, which they well deserved, and
which many employed in taking leave of the spot which for a whole year
had been their home.
But home was not to be thought of yet, since to all appearances this
summer, as regarded the condition of the ice, was far more favourable
than the last. From Germaniaberg, towards the south and south-east,
there was open water on all sides between the floes. At night we had a
sudden four hours’ storm from the north; this was the first time we had
seen real storm-clouds in Greenland, although there was neither thunder
nor lightning.
On the 1st of August, at ten minutes past six a.m., we weighed anchor
and steamed out of our harbour. Between Cape Wynn and Flache Bay were
large brashes of land-ice which had been broken in the night from
Clavering Straits, and driven south; but eventually we pushed our way
through the masses to Jackson Island, partly for further scientific
observations, and partly to increase our collection.
We anchored at four p.m. south of the east cape of the island. The
mountains rose above 1000 feet, and on the east side were steep cliffs
and slopes, so that close to the shore were still two fathoms of water.
The astronomers took observations and collected geological specimens.
Dr. Pansch botanized, and Lieutenant Payer climbed the highest points
of the island to survey it in detail. Some remains of Esquimaux huts
were found, also some skulls and sundry implements. Traces of the
musk-ox and reindeer were everywhere visible.
Upon landing, we had but to cross a short stretch of dark sand and
stones, when we found ourselves upon a green plain, covered thickly
with various kinds of grass, and with the blossom of the taraxacum
and ranunculus. The elegant sprays of the stellaria wound themselves
far and near, whilst in the soft-cushioned moss were some stiff
willow bushes. Here in our shirt sleeves we chased the butterfly,
which was fluttering from flower to flower, it was the small brown
bluish variegated _Argynnis polaris_ (Boisd.), and _Argynnis
chariclea_ (Herbst), that we already knew from Pendulum Island; our
attention was also drawn to a larger fine yellow butterfly, which we
eventually caught, the _Colias Hecla_.
We also found the already well-known spider (_Lycosa aguilonaris_,
Koch). It is interesting to know that this species is also met with
among the glaciers of the European Alps.
Farther westward the thick turf, plants, and grass grew more in clumps
and bushes. Besides those always met with, was the beautiful willow
rose (_Epilobium latifolium_, L.); it grew in small bushes by Cape
Mary; here it was not in bud, but from three to five large blossoms
perfectly developed, stood close together on one stalk of a beautiful
red colour. There were also many other beautiful flowering plants which
have already been mentioned.
Later on the boats took us still more westward; where, on a small steep
promontory, the burgomaster-gull had its nesting-place; there were
about six nests, from one of which a hungry young one stretched its
grey head.
We stopped here to collect plants, and we were not disappointed;
luxuriant were the leaves of the Oxyria and others in the rocky
fissures. Dr. Pansch here looked out for something new, and found to
his delight a row of elegant plants with pale violet blossoms, the
common eye-bright (_Euphrasia officinalis_, L.), which we never
met with again.
A walk the next day on the mountain to the west showed us that
vegetation was pretty luxuriant everywhere. From hence we turned to
the rocky heights of the East Cape, under which the Germania was
anchored; here we were met by a flock of screaming burgomaster-gulls;
there must have been from ten to fifteen nests. Amongst the rolling
pebbles, nearly under the overhanging rocks, were thick bushes of the
large-leaved Oxyria in bloom.
In ornithology we found nothing new; but Dr. Copeland picked up
on the shore several black feathers, which undoubtedly belonged
to two different kinds of duck, the _Anser albifrons_ and
_leucopsis_. Sea-swallows were in large flocks.
From the form and position of the land on this spot, we conjectured
that there might be some ancient traces of the natives, and possibly
some winter huts; these, however, did not turn up; but we found a few
tent-rings and some long four-cornered ruined heaps of stone, which we
took to be graves, but found nothing amongst them. On the cliffs of the
East Cape, however, something interesting was discovered. Amongst the
loose stones, Peter Iversen pulled out what he thought to be a piece of
drift-wood, but it proved to be a regularly worked long four-cornered
plank, with fine holes along the edge. We turned over the stones and
found some more planks, also a well-preserved skull and some arm and
leg bones.
[Illustration]
How could we account for this strange discovery? Evidently the body had
been purposely buried under the stones; that it should have come there
by chance was not probable. We could think of no other solution than
that of some religious motive. Upon putting the boards together, we
had a box of 9·4 inches in length, 6 inches in breadth, and about 3·2
inches high; the boards were one-fifth of an inch thick; it had had a
partly closed lid, only a space of 1·7 inches broad being left open;
instead of hinges there were small straps, and on the other side a
hole, showing that there must have been some sort of a fastening. The
boards were put together by small wooden nails or pegs.
Without doubt, of all the things we had discovered, this box showed the
most artistic workmanship; and taking into consideration the little use
such an implement would be in an Esquimaux household, and the peculiar
spot on which it was found, the supposition that it must in some way be
connected with the religious worship of the natives seems justified.
Close by among the rocks, Dr. Copeland found a well-preserved piece of
a stone vessel, which the Esquimaux hang over their lamps; it seemed
to have been rounded off at the edges, was long and four-cornered and
about three inches and three-quarters thick; it was of opaque stone and
carefully worked. The underneath part and sides were covered with a
coating of soot.
From all this we gathered that the island had been visited by the
natives several times, but that they had made no long stay, possibly
because the neighbourhood was not favourable to the musk-ox and other
animals.
During the night large masses of land-ice were loosened, which set
with great speed eastward, so that towards the morning of the 2nd
of August we could see from the neighbouring mountain of 800 feet
high that southward to Cape Broer Ruys and beyond there was much
open water. Lieut. Payer suggested exploring Gael Hamkes Bay; but
upon consideration Captain Koldewey thought it better to go further
south, and if possible penetrate into one of the larger sounds, either
Scoresby’s Sound, or Davy Sound, as Scoresby reported that they
stretched far inland.
The weather remained fine and bright, with light sou’west and west
winds, thereby driving the ice from the land and opening a free passage
for us. In the best of spirits we weighed anchor on the morning of
the 3rd of August, and steered south in a temperature of 11° to 13°
above freezing. After going some distance, as there was apparently an
impassable block of ice to the south, we steered westward, and anchored
under the coast. One glimpse from the mountains above showed that, as
far as the eye could reach, the ice lay firm to the land, and that the
entrance to the great Sound at that time was impracticable. Bontekoe
Island was enclosed in ice.
We therefore agreed upon a boat journey along the coast to westward, to
investigate what on Clavering’s chart was marked as Mackenzie Inlet.
The further we advanced southward the greener and more beautiful became
the country. Comparing these far stretching valleys and mountain
slopes and the in some places luxuriant growth of grass and sward
with the scant vegetation of Sabine Island, we could scarcely believe
that we were not more than one degree of latitude from it. Many herds
of reindeer were grazing here, and musk-oxen were by no means rare.
At noon the temperature rose to above 54°, and in swampy places were
swarms of mosquitos (_Tipula truncorum_, Meig.).
Of birds, besides snow-buntings there were some shore-birds, such as
_Strepsilas interpres_ and _Tringa maritima_. Except a few
tent-rings, nothing reminded us of the Esquimaux. Farther westward the
appearance of the ground changed; the whole promontory was covered
with vegetation resembling the early spring-time at home when the
fresh green is everywhere, but the growth of the plants is still low.
Here the different kinds of knotgrasses; two kinds of cotton-grass,
_Eriophorum polystachium_ (L.), and _Eriophorum scheuchzeri_
(Hppe.), and several kinds of _Carex_, as well as _Juncus
biglumis_ (L.), and other plants before mentioned, flourished.
In several places we met with the bilberry (_Vaccinium_): this
was the most northerly point of the coast, and though the plants were
plentiful they were low and the wood soft; signs of fruit or blossom
were nowhere to be seen.
When the boat started for Mackenzie Inlet, Dr. Pansch remained on
board, although everything seemed to promise well both for ethnology
and botany, but he thought it his duty to pay some attention to marine
zoology, and hoped to bring up some fine specimens of the sea Fauna
and Flora at great depths. The first dredge near the ship, at from
three to five fathoms, gave crustacea, mussels, cockles, and worms, as
well as some small slimy fish which were not new to us. Our hopes of
enriching our collection failed partly from stormy weather, and partly
because Dr. Pansch was suffering under peculiar circumstances, at one
time being in an excited nervous state, and at another in apathetic
drowsiness: rest and much sleep, however, soon relieved these symptoms.
In the evening we shot five reindeer easily, the herd being so
confiding that they allowed themselves to be surrounded before they
thought of moving. We therefore rejoiced in some fresh meat, which
lately had been scarce. From constant motion in the fresh air the men’s
appetites were so great that the cook grumbled from morning till night
that he could never satisfy the men. With such nourishment our strength
increased, our working powers were doubled, and universal good spirits
reigned on board the Germania.
On the 5th of August preparations were made for a boat journey, and on
the 6th we sailed at nine a.m. with provisions for eight days. The wind
blew fresh from the north, and the water was as flat as the land, which
just here rose but little. After a course of eight nautical miles we
came to a tongue of land, beyond which the coast took a curve to the
north-west. From here we soon saw that Mackenzie Inlet was only a creek
into which a stream fell, often running through a valley. We sailed to
the end of the creek and landed. Our men gazed with longing eyes on
some reindeer which were feeding near, and soon shot one. Close against
the shore, under the green slope of a hill, were the remains of some
Esquimaux huts, evidently much older than those on Clavering Island.
Whilst Dr. Copeland investigated these, Dr. Börgen and the Captain took
the bearings of our position. During the morning we had made twelve
nautical miles in three hours, and now spent the whole afternoon on our
work. In the evening the Captain and Dr. Copeland climbed a hill lying
to the north-west, about 475 feet high: from thence we could see the
end of Loch Fine, the Fjord discovered by Clavering in 1823, behind
which rose a highly picturesque mountain chain. Before us lay a plain
stretching far to the south-south-west as far as Cape Franklin, and
disappearing with a mountain chain to the west, marked on our chart
as Bennet Island. Beyond this plain, near Cape Franklin, glittered a
number of icebergs, bringing us to the conclusion that yonder must
be the mouth of a large Fjord; for along the coast we had seen no
glacier from which they could have sprung. Delighted with this apparent
discovery we returned to the tent, agreeing that the next morning we
would make for Bennet Island, and if possible advance as far as Cape
Franklin.
It was the 7th of August. The sky was clouded in the east, and it had
rained hard in the night. But it cleared at ten o’clock, and we set
sail with a light south-easterly wind. This soon lulled, and we had
to take to the oars, so that we did not reach Cape Bennet until the
afternoon, when we had to seek protection in the tent from the rain.
On the morning of the 8th the fog seemed to have dispersed, and we
steered straight for Cape Franklin. The icebergs increased and although
the land retreated to the south-west, we could still see no glaciers.
It was evident to us that we were on the point of making an important
discovery. At two nautical miles east of the Cape we were obliged to
halt. The ice lay fast to the land, and sheer across the mouth of the
Fjord, forming a barrier that our ship could not force. The boat must,
therefore, be tugged over, but before doing this it was advisable to
ascertain whether it was navigable.
Tent and tools were therefore landed, and Copeland and Payer prepared
to climb the mountain, 4550 feet high. After doing all necessary work,
we followed, and Börgen and the Captain mounted a rocky height of 475
feet, from whence their astonished eyes beheld a landscape, which was
indescribable in its extraordinary grandeur. The interior of Greenland
lay there like a splendid picture, displaying the Alpine world in its
highest style. At our feet lay the mouth of a great Fjord, or rather
arm of the sea, perfectly free from drifting ice, but covered with
numerous icebergs of from 95 to 190 feet high, and stretching westward
in the far, far distance, then seeming to divide into several arms,
rising even higher and higher into the regions of eternal snow and ice.
This was a moment which richly rewarded us for all our troubles and
difficulties. Before us lay in all its virgin beauty the mirrored
surface of these unknown waters, and if only we could succeed in
bringing up our ship, what scope was there for science and discovery;
aye, even into the very heart of Greenland! But it seemed almost
impossible, a mailed ship could never break through this barrier of
many feet. There was therefore nothing for it but to pull the boat
over; preparatory to this we were to have a little rest, especially as
Payer and Copeland could not return before morning.
Koldewey was, however, awoke from a beautiful morning slumber by
Copeland’s voice, who, looking in at the tent, called to him that the
ice had broken and was moving eastward. Jumping up, we hurried from the
tent; to convince ourselves was the work of a moment, when there was a
loud hurrah! “Now, my good fellows, pack up; we must be back on board
to-day, and bring up the Germania.” This was answered by a cheerful
“Aye, aye!” and all hands went to work. Could we yet get over seven
German miles to-day?
Lieutenant Payer gives the following account of Franklin Point:--“We
followed a valley running from the mountain (the other side of Cape
Franklin), until we came to a raging glacier stream cut at least thirty
yards deep in the perpendicular rock. How should we get to the other
side? was the question. At last, going up the stream, we came to a
natural bridge; the capabilities of which we tried by dropping a block
of rock upon it, and then began a quick march over the declivity,
fragments of which were set in motion at every step. This declivity
ended at a high basalt-wall, which cut like a road through the massive
rocks of the Cape, seeming to isolate them from one another. We
scrambled through this confusion of rocks over a craggy ridge to the
edge of a high roof-shaped glacier, and then on to a weather-beaten
cone, thus reaching the north-easterly summit of the group of rocks
forming the Cape.
“What an unexpected sight met our delighted eyes! A monstrous Fjord
with numberless glistening icebergs lay to the westward at our feet,
with its high many branching rocky masses covered with ice, sometimes
enclosing real islands with rugged walls.
“More than ten German miles to westward we could see that one of
the chief arms of the Fjord curved in a south-westerly direction,
at the foot of a mountain-chain about 8750 feet high. To the south
the solitary Cape Parry stretched far into the sea, in spite of the
crowding of the pack-ice which lay silent and stiff to the farthest
horizon, and through which we should one day have to make our return
journey to Europe.
“It was eight p.m., as after five hours’ march we reached the
summit; the temperature was 34° Fahr., and not a breath of wind was
stirring; and Payer sat down without a coat to sketch the panorama,
and then proceed to trigonometrical measurement. By the help of some
solar observations the azimuth of the most southerly point of our
trigonometrical net was decided, in order to connect our standing-point
with it.
“After four hours’ stay we went along a craggy ridge to the south-west,
to satisfy ourselves as to the northerly direction of the Fjord arm.
At two a.m. we reached a rocky group towering above a snow plateau, the
altitude of which was at least 4900 feet; and from which we convinced
ourselves that the chief arm of Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord was really
to be sought in a northerly direction.
“At half-past four a.m. all our work was finished on this spot, and at
nine we returned to our tent.”
At Bennet Island we rested, after a good meal, though five reindeer
which we had shot in Mackenzie Bay had already turned bad, showing the
effects of a Greenland sun. We could easily have provided some more, as
a herd of twenty-two lay about 1000 paces from us, and dispersed only
by degrees, with the exception of five or six who seemed to have no
desire to move; this indolence, however, was not encouraged, the old
leader of the herd returning and striking them with his horns, until
they lazily rose and followed the others.
At the south-east cape from Bennet the loosened ice floating eastward
was so heaped up, that we were obliged to tug the boat. Later on, too,
we had to make a great curve in order to avoid some large drifting
masses, so that not until midnight did we reach the ship, thoroughly
tired out.