FURTHER COASTING VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA. 17TH AUGUST
TO 13TH SEPTEMBER, 1869.[46]
The Germania anchored on the south side of the island of
Klein-Pendulum.--Still open water to the south.--Return
to Shannon Island.--Arrival near Cape Philip Broke.--The
Germania anchors near the Stufenberg.--Journey to
Sabine Island.--Fruitless attempt to cruise towards the
north.--Storm.--The Germania steers southwards.--Ascent of
3000 feet up the Sattelberg by First Lieutenant Payer, Dr.
Copeland, and P. Ellinger.--Glimpse into the interior of the
Fjord from the top of the Sattelberg.--Tracks of Lemmings
on the top.--Remains of an Esquimaux summer hut.--Return to
winter-quarters under Sabine Island.--Results obtained.
We now resume our narrative on board the Germania, August 17. The
following day a fresh southerly breeze was blowing, raising the sea
and bringing up much ice, compelling us to veer away the cable, and
keep everything in readiness for a move in case of need. The ice,
which, on account of the roughness of the sea, was constantly breaking
away from the pack, kept coming up from the west. At times we were so
completely surrounded by it, that we had to hoist up the boats, and
were so prevented from landing. The sky, during this southerly wind,
was obscured by continual fogs--the average temperature being not many
degrees above freezing point.
On the evening of the 19th of August the wind dropped, the ice opened
again, and we were soon lying in open water, and able to keep up
communication with the shore.
We made observations on the current the next day, and sent men on shore
to hunt for food; they returned with some musk-oxen which they had
killed. Payer also came on board.
August 21. Weather warm and foggy. Snowfall in the afternoon with
a light wind from the north-east, in consequence of which we were
prevented from continuing our labours on shore. Meanwhile we made
preparations for further excursions on the island, and for a stay of
some days for our scientific staff, as our captain intended to sail
westward in order to ascertain the condition of the land-ice, and gain
a general view of the ice from the high mountains on Klein-Pendulum.
There was no prospect as yet of getting further north from the eastward
of Shannon. The passage had, in fact, become narrowed; and from the
east the pack had begun to settle nearer in to shore.
After landing the scientific staff with the necessary crew, and a boat
in case of necessity, at noon on the 22nd, with a light north wind,
we steered westward along the solid land-ice. Somewhat broken in the
edges, the ice here slightly changed its aspect and showed signs of
breaking-up. On the eastern side of Klein-Pendulum the ice remained
solidly firm, and it was only on the southern side that we found open
water for anchorage.
Next day a fresh breeze sprang up from the north, with a cloudy sky.
The weather being in other respects fair, the captain ascended a
mountain, 1990 feet high, in order to survey the ice; but so thick a
fog prevailed that he was compelled to return on board without having
accomplished his object. The next day the sky cleared, although a fresh
breeze still blew from the north, and it became possible to obtain
a clear view from the top of the mountain, which, however, was not
encouraging for further progress northwards. The line of the land-ice
was still almost the same, and what lay between Shannon Island and the
mainland was quite solid. We could see Haystack and the high promontory
to the west quite distinctly, but entirely surrounded with solid ice.
North and west of Shannon Island immense fields were visible, mostly
close packed; and even the open space between it and the mainland,
which a week ago was quite clear, was now filled with large fields.
Only in the south-east, and along the coast towards the south, was
open water still to be descried. Eastwards, Gael Hamkes Bay appeared
to be open, but close round Cape James and the adjacent island the ice
was again thick. There was, consequently, little hope this year of
penetrating further north. Besides, Captain Koldewey hardly expected
that it would be possible for the Hansa to reach the coast, as the pack
had apparently again become closer, and the open water under the coast
had become narrower.
In the afternoon the weather cleared, enabling us to make correct
surveys and soundings of the coast-line. The soundings gave us a
fine and safe anchorage under the lofty mountain, afterwards named
Stufenberg. The bottom shelved gradually, and it became possible to
anchor in a soft clay in four fathoms close under the mountain. The
night was calm, and during it a quantity of new ice formed round us;
which, however, broke up under the influence of a stiff southerly
breeze. We availed ourselves of this breeze to return to Shannon
Island, as we feared being cut off it by the approaching pack. About
half-past four p.m. we sailed round the northern cape of the island,
steering along the land-ice, as we could not take the direct route to
Cape Philip Broke on account of the large fields. Towards six p.m. we
came upon new ice, which during the late calm had formed between the
fields. This we broke through easily at first, but presently stood
still, owing to the breeze dying out. We broke through this ice, and
got out hawsers to tow the ship through, as at a mile to the N.W. open
water was in sight. The fields, however, united, and so piled up the
ice that it became impossible to advance. We had no resource left,
therefore, but to get up steam, which enabled us to break through. At
times it was so thick that we had to charge it repeatedly with full
steam, in order to force a passage. At length, at twelve (midnight),
we anchored under Cape Philip Broke. The night was calm, and the sky
cloudless. The temperature fell to 22° Fahr., and new ice rapidly
formed. Dr. Copeland, who had observed our progress from land, informed
us that Payer was still on the southern hill some miles away from
anchorage. Their tents, however, had been pitched quite close to us.
The captain requested Dr. Copeland to hoist a flag as a signal for
Lieut. Payer to return on board immediately. The anchorage by Cape
Philip Broke appeared to be no longer tenable, as large fields
continued drifting towards us from the east, filling up the bay between
Shannon and Pendulum islands. According to our astronomers, who had
been constantly watching the ice from the eastern hill, there remained
only one open channel to the east of Shannon. As far as they could
judge, the ice to the north had not begun to move yet. Under these
circumstances, our chances of further explorations to the north this
autumn became fainter and fainter.
On the return of Lieutenant Payer and his men on the morning of the
29th, the captain summoned a council of the scientific staff and
officers, to obtain their opinions as to the feasibility of penetrating
further. Taking into consideration all circumstances, the utter
improbability of our being able to advance further north, the danger
of our present anchorage, and the non-arrival of the Hansa, which we
had now given up altogether, it was unanimously resolved, as being most
in accordance with the object of the Expedition; to return to the safe
anchorage on the south side of Klein-Pendulum, there to complete the
survey of the surrounding country; and, if possible, to undertake a
sledge-expedition to the mainland.
We had on that island the additional advantage of the mountain, whence
we were enabled to observe the movements of the ice, and at once avail
ourselves of any favourable opportunity. We still hoped that the
autumnal storms would bring about a general breaking-up.
August 27, at four p.m., we raised anchor and steered southwards. The
sea was now everywhere frozen over, and mostly covered with inch-ice,
through which we could only force a passage with full steam power up.
We found open water only near Bass Rock, and could sail freely and
quickly round the island. We anchored at eleven p.m. under Stufenberg,
in four fathoms.
On the following days the weather was fine and clear, with light north
and west winds, so that the labours of the astronomers in determining
our locality, as well as observations regarding the magnetic influences
and current, together with Lieutenant Payer’s work, made good and rapid
progress. Dr. Pansch, whose arm was now almost well, had resumed his
active labours in the cause of science, and examined the remains of
the Esquimaux huts which were discovered under the Stufenberg, and
formed botanical collections. The island, partly barren, and clothed
with scanty vegetation, was explored in all directions. Whenever time
allowed we went out shooting, but, with the exception of a few Arctic
hares, brought back no game. The position of the ice was constantly
watched from the mountains, and on the 13th of August Payer reported
that, upon the whole, its position had not altered; also that the young
ice between Shannon and Pendulum Islands had not disappeared; and that
that lying to the north-east of Shannon was quite firm.
Accordingly, when the work on Klein-Pendulum was finished, we sailed on
the 1st of September to the small harbour on the south side of Sabine
Island, in order to start on a lengthy excursion to the mainland. The
nights were now growing darker and darker, the formation of the young
ice proceeded rapidly, so much so that nothing but a strong wind could
break it. The weather, which during the whole of our stay on the coast
had been particularly tranquil and fine, began now to be unsettled and
stormy. On the night of the 2nd of September the first violent storm
burst from the N.N.W., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. The wind
came down in gusts from the mountains, and we had to let go our second
anchor and pay out much cable, which kept us secure. As on this coast
all violent winds blow from the north, anchorage is very insecure on
the north side, particularly in spring-time, when, on account of the
stronger motion of the ice, it is extremely dangerous.
At last, on the morning of the 7th, the air cleared and a fresh wind
blew from the north. From the deck we could see the heavy pack-ice
drifting rapidly past our harbour southwards; the young ice, too, was
loosened and parted from the land, so that we were once more in open
water. Looking from the mountain, the pack-ice in the east formed a
complete block; only about our island and to the south of the island of
Shannon was there open water. On the eastern side from Klein-Pendulum,
too, a large field had been pushed forward and pressed close to the
land, so that even the road to Shannon was no longer open. In the
night another heavy storm burst, which obliged us to let go the
second anchor. The weather-side of the ship, and the bow, even under
the bowsprit, were covered over with a thick coating of ice from the
washing of the water. At midnight, under a clear sky, a calm of several
hours’ duration fell suddenly; but in the morning the wind again blew
from the north, sometimes assuming the force of a storm, as we could
see from the quick motion of the heavy pieces of ice. We hoped that
this continuous north wind would sweep a clear path for us, and thus
be favourable to a last attempt at gaining the north. Accordingly, at
nine a.m., although it was still blowing freshly, we set sail, tacking
northwards towards Klein-Pendulum. However, we were not able to go far,
for we were met by a violent downfall of snow; the wind once more rose
to a storm, and we were again compelled to anchor under the protection
of Klein-Pendulum. In the afternoon another heavy storm broke with
hurricane gusts from the mountains, the air being thick with snow; so
that we had to ride by both anchors, and were unable to do any sort of
work in the open air.
The next morning (the 10th of September), as the wind was still blowing
hard, Captain Koldewey climbed the highest summit of the island, in
order to obtain a good look-out over the ice. The air was clear; not
a bit of fog, so that on all sides we had a wide prospect, which,
unfortunately, showed us that any advance with the ship at this time
of the year was impossible. The ice between Shannon and the mainland,
and further along the coast towards the north, lay unchangeably solid,
exactly the same as on our arrival; and the land-ice in the creek
between Shannon and Pendulum islands was only slightly broken. The
pack-ice to the east was completely closed up, having large fields
which were pressed close to the land under Klein-Pendulum, shutting
up the access to the Shannon, under which island, however, there was
an open channel. To the east of Shannon Island a small strip of water
showed itself now and then, but, most probably, the large fields were
revolving in the immediate neighbourhood of the land-ice, preventing
any continued sailing, even had we been mad enough to venture between
these grinding masses. Along the coast to the south appeared a small
strip of open water, and the captain decided upon availing himself of
the north wind for exploring this in the interests of the undertaking.
On the 10th of September we therefore weighed anchor at one p.m., and
steered southwards with a moderate north breeze. A field lay between
Walrus and Sabine Island; but close under the latter, we found in four
fathoms of water a small passage to the south. We could no longer sail
round Walrus Island, which lay to the east.
At six p.m. we found ourselves over against a creek, at the egress of a
valley, through which ran a stream from the glaciers, which we called
“Königin-Augusta Thal.”[47] As this creek was very shallow, we called
it “Flache Bay.” We dropped anchor here, as southwards so much ice was
pushed close to the coast that it was impossible to sail round Cape
Borlase Warren. The glacier stream had accumulated such an amount of
rubbish, that even at the mouth with a boat one could not land, and at
low water the greater part of the bay was dry. Only under the steep
mountains to the south could we land at all.
The night was fine and starlight, the temperature 29.5° Fahr. The
astronomers availed themselves of this opportunity to determine the
exact Polar latitude with the sextant, which gave the lat. at 74° 24′
3″. The next morning First Lieutenant Payer and Dr. Copeland climbed
the “Sattelberg,” more than 3700 feet high, one of the loftiest peaks
of this peninsula. Payer reported the following:--
“Our intention of inspecting the interior of ‘Gael Hamkes Bay,’ and
the branches of the Fjord to westward, had led us towards Flache Bay.
From thence a two-hours’ boat journey to Cape Borlase Warren convinced
us that it was impossible to penetrate into the interior by means of
the ship, on account of the numerous icebergs and floes which were
stranded at the entrance. There remained, therefore, but one means to
gain our end--the climbing of a high overlooking mountain. The only one
we could see fit for this purpose was the Sattelberg, 3700 feet high,
which formed the highest point to the north of Gael Hamkes Bay, and was
easily reached from our anchorage by going through ‘Königin-Augusta
Thal.’
“Thus on the 11th of September, at eight a.m., Payer and Ellinger left
the ship, provided with theodolite and barometer, and wandered up the
dreary, gently-rising valley. Here Dr. Copeland joined them. A tiring,
monotonous road led us up and down the mountains and slopes covered
with scanty vegetation, through rough water-rifts, and, lastly, over
a small, steep glacier on to the Dolerite-crest of the Sattelberg. A
violent north wind made the moderate cold of 14° Fahr. particularly
painful to the travellers during their stay on the summit, especially
whilst carrying on their work.
“The view westward was unimpeded, and afforded a most interesting
glimpse of the interior of the Greenland Fjord, the exploration of
which, by means of extensive sledge-journeys (for which the time of
year was most favourable), seemed desirable. The opposite view, too, of
a broad, smooth, icy sea losing itself in the distance, and the wild,
imposing, rocky land to the west and north was, in a purely landscape
point of view, most beautiful.
“And where was the so-called coast water? It was a small channel close
to the south of Pendulum Island.
[Illustration: London. Sampson Low. Marston, Low & Searle.
188 Fleet Street.
QUEEN AUGUSTA VALLEY.]
“Here we observed, as upon all mountains previously, and upon others
since, the freedom from snow even on the high-lying lands, and
the fact that the snow-fields seemed exclusively to form a distant
background to the glaciers; drifts, and the more or less accidental
gatherings in clefts, and so forth, of course excepted.
“We left the top after an hour’s observation, and made some coffee on
our way down in a rift in the glacier, returning to the ship by a most
glorious aurora, after four hours and a half absence.”
So far First Lieutenant Payer’s account. At the same time a
boat-journey along the coast towards the south was carried out and the
coast surveyed. It is here particularly free from shallows, and the
depth so regular that the lead was a sure guide for the approach of
the ship to land. The mountains on the shore are from 450 to 550 feet
high, and mostly rise rather abruptly. On a tongue of land between
Flache Bay and Cape Borlase Warren we found the remains of some
Esquimaux huts, and near them some graves, which we inspected, and
found all sorts of curious vessels. The graves were old and decayed,
and probably no living Esquimaux, had been on the spot for a very
long time, Gael Hamkes Bay was so filled with ice, and the blocks and
floes so heaped up at the cape, that even with the boat we could not
get round, and therefore could not reach Clavering Island. It was
often necessary to drag the boat for some nautical miles over the
ice-blocks--a gigantic Work, bearing no proportion to the small results
to be expected. We therefore contented ourselves with inspecting the
immediate neighbourhood more closely, especially the graves. Vegetation
was more plentiful than on Pendulum Island; even some grass plats were
to be found. We also saw numerous traces of the reindeer in a valley
running westward from the cape, and gradually rising to the mountain
chain, though we only saw one single living specimen, which, although
eagerly hunted, escaped our shots. We returned late in the evening to
the Germania.
The report regarding the ice of First Lieutenant Payer, who returned
with Dr. Copeland about eleven p.m., was as unfavourable as the
description of the above excursion. The pack-ice, as far as one could
see to the eastward, was completely blocked. Northwards from the
Shannon nothing but ice to be seen. It was clear to all that the time
for ship cruising was over, and that we must think of placing our
vessel in some secure winter harbour before we were cut off from her,
and thus be exposed to certain destruction. The only fit harbour, as
already mentioned, was under Sabine Island, the one in which we had
anchored for the first time on the 5th of August. Although the captain
would willingly have wintered more northwards, about Shannon Island,
in order to hold a more advanced position, no more secure position
offered itself here; and upon the security of the ship, particularly
as the Hansa had failed in reaching the coast, hung the whole success
of the expedition. It may here be mentioned that in Arctic regions,
when wintering upon a coast, which is not always free from ice even in
summer, if circumstances, or, above all, choice permit, the harbour
should be chosen opening to the south, having land to the north; also
a creek into which falls a glacier stream, as such a harbour is, in
the course of the summer, most likely to become free from ice. In any
case it must be protected from the heavy pack-ice. The small bay on
the south-east side of Sabine Island combined all these advantages in
a high degree, but, on account of its little depth, is only safe for
ships drawing less than ten feet of water, and which can lie inside the
straight line which unites the two land points in the east and west.
As our ship could effect nothing further in a southerly direction, and
our anchorage was now insecure from the pressure of the ice and the
violent north wind, we steamed out at half-past ten a.m. on the 13th
of September, after having made another geological excursion to Sabine
Island, to the harbour which, for ten months, was to be our home.
In looking back upon the summer’s enterprise and summing up the
results, we had cause, in spite of all failures and disappointed hopes,
to be thankful for what we had attained. If we had not succeeded in
advancing northwards, and our separation from the Hansa, and her
continued non-appearance, limited our investigations in a great
measure, the fact remained (the condition _sine quâ non_ of the
whole undertaking) that we had reached the coast with the Germania
quite safely, and had already made some important discoveries, which,
the winter happily over, might result in a rich store of knowledge,
however unfavourable the condition of the ice might be. We found
ourselves in a field (which, scientifically, was almost unknown), on a
coast respecting which the most unreliable and contradictory reports
obtained, and nearly all our discoveries and observations seemed new,
thus affording important contributions to the knowledge of the Arctic
region. Events proved that Captain Koldewey was right in choosing the
coast of East Greenland for the basis of Arctic exploration, instead
of Dr. Petermann’s suggestion of advancing between Nova-Zembla and
Spitzbergen to the North Pole. Captain Koldewey was convinced, and is
now more so than ever, that in that quarter any considerable advance
by ship to the north would be as impossible as from the north of
Spitzbergen. “Under the most favourable circumstances,” so says Captain
Koldewey, “we could only make some explorations in Nova-Zembla, and
take some hydrographical observations which, however unimportant they
might be, would bear no proportion to the cost of the undertaking;
whilst on the coast of East Greenland, if even the conjecture of
open coast water to the north should not prove true, we might, after
breaking through the icy belt, make some important and satisfactory
discoveries.”
That the Hansa had not been able to reach the coast was unfortunate,
as it weakened our community; but from that circumstance we found
ourselves deprived of a larger supply of coal so necessary for our
boilers; and not knowing how much fuel we might want during the winter,
we were obliged to use the utmost economy, and only employ steam power
on urgent occasions. Had the Hansa been with us, nothing would have
prevented us, after the first failure, in the attempt to reach the
north in the middle of August, from steaming at once southward with
the Germania. Our sister ship could have remained at Shannon Island.
Eight days would have sufficed us to explore the whole land of Gael
Hamkes Bay, which at this time was free from ice, and then return to
the north; whilst, in the meantime, the Hansa would have begun and
finished the exploration of Shannon Island. The coming spring proved
still more what a pity it was that the Hansa did not reach the coast.
We were really too feeble, even with our greatest exertions, to master
the amount of work. Captain Koldewey is convinced that we might have
advanced two degrees further north had he had sufficient men. It is,
therefore, unjust to draw the conclusion (as has been done in many
parts by inland people) from the events which have taken place, that
taking the Hansa as a sister ship was a mistake. To maintain that,
because, the Hansa was lost in the ice, she was therefore superfluous,
is scarcely a logical conclusion.