SHANNON ISLAND, WITH THE TELL-PLATTE AND KLEIN-PENDULUM.
Situation, extent, and character of Shannon Island.--Freeden
Bay.--Exploration and measurement of Shannon Island.--Basaltic
columns.--Arctic fox.--Esquimaux dwellings.--Unsuspected
neighbourhood of the Hansa.--Sledge journey of Lieutenant
Payer to the Tell-Platte.--A polar bear.--Difficulty in
advancing.--Ascent of the Tell-Platte.--Beautiful prospect
of the Greenland Coast.--Low temperature.--Return of Dr.
Börgen’s excursion to Klein-Pendulum.--Esquimaux utensils.--The
Stufenberg.
Shannon Island, which, according to our reckoning, stretches from 74°
56′ to 75° 26′ N. Lat., is the lowest of all the large islands within
the range of our coasting. In the north it reaches the considerable
height of 305.2 metres, equal to 972 Rhenish feet[44] (barometrical
measurement). To the east and south, however, the hills scarcely exceed
500 feet; and the remaining portion of the island rises but a few feet
above the level of the sea. On the south side is a somewhat important
creek, which we named Freeden Bay; whilst in the north-east is a still
deeper Fjord, stretching so far into the interior of the island as
almost to reach Freeden Bay, so that the island is divided into two
very unequal parts. Upon the whole, the shores of these bays are very
low, and, as far as we can judge, they are seldom free from an icy
covering; thus one can easily see how difficult it must be to give
their exact limit. In some neighbourhoods it was no easy task to decide
whether we were on land or ice.
In summer time the low-lying lands, when not covered with snow, are
mostly changed into a muddy swamp. The whole island, with the exception
of the northern part between Cape Copeland and Cape Börgen, where it
consists of fine syenite, is of volcanic origin. The party to which
I belonged consisted of three, Dr. Börgen, the sailor Klentzer, and
myself. Our task was to explore the ground, if possible, completely,
and also with regard to the possibility of measuring a base in such a
position as to start from, and, if necessary, triangulate along the
whole coast. We soon ascertained, however, that it was not possible
here to get a good triangle for the purpose of measuring.
The 18th of August was at first foggy, but it afterwards cleared, and
we raised a row of stone heaps on the best spots of ground we could
find. One of these spots, in the north of the peninsula, is a small
basaltic dome, and although only 250 Rhenish feet high, gave us a fine
distant view into the interior of Shannon.
On the 19th we had fog for breakfast again, but in the afternoon we
continued our explorations in a north-easterly direction. Close to
the coast we were astonished at the sight of a fine group of basaltic
columns; they were the first we had seen of so regular and distinct a
form. The largest must have been quite twenty feet high.
From here we marched for an hour and a quarter over to East Shannon.
The land resembled that by Cape Philip Broke, but the high levels were
more extensive, and covered with several low, muddy spots. As we were
taking our measurements we saw a musk-ox, which we shot; we took some
of the flesh, and reached the tent by half-past three.
The 20th of August found us active on the east coast, in the
neighbourhood of the basaltic columns.
For a long time we had seen a large bear in the distance, investigating
the row of hummocks, which showed the edge of the land-ice, but it did
not seem advisable to follow him. On our return road we saw some snow
of a pale reddish colour; it seemed to be formed of a mixture of red
clay or sandstone dust.[45]
On the 21st, as we were exploring more to the south and east, we
came upon a small, deep ravine; it ran close down to the shore, and
seemed to be a collecting place for the drift-wood. One tree, which
was certainly broken in many places, was at least forty feet long.
Under the drift-wood lay the skull of a fine bear, and by the side a
jaw-bone, which now was likely to grace some European museum. In the
evening we returned on board, as the next day was Sunday. It was not,
however, to be a day of rest, as Captain Koldewey had decided upon
sailing to Cape Desbrowe, from this height to study the state of the
ice, and look out for the Hansa. We, as well as Lieutenant Payer,
Sengstacke, and two sailors, were therefore again set on shore and
left to our fate. The night before, Klentzer, who had slept alone in
the tent, had suffered from the intrusion of a fox; it had fled in to
him, and not until after several vain attempts to kill his guest with a
bayonet did the creature seek safety in flight.
In the afternoon we took a pleasant walk along the west coast, and
discovered a number of “Tent-rings,” or circles, and other traces of
inhabitants long since disappeared.
On the 23rd of August a cold wind blew, with wet fog, covering
everything with rime. The fox visited us again, and again escaped from
our attempt at murder. We passed our time in fetching drift-wood from
the east coast, whilst Payer conveyed a basaltic column from the north
end of the peninsula to our anchor-ground.
Upon continuing our work on the south end of the peninsula on the 24th,
we found everywhere traces of very old Esquimaux huts and graves. The
huts were not the usual underground winter-dwellings, but were built of
stones on the flat earth, a block of rock being taken as the back wall.
The largest of these peculiar dwellings was ten feet in diameter and
six feet in height.
In the night Payer, Sengstacke, and two sailors went to south-west
Shannon (Tellplatte), and the next morning nothing was to be seen
either of them or the Germania. Now we know that at this time the Hansa
lay at no great distance in the ice, and that a part of her gallant
crew had advanced in the boat to within a short distance of Cape
Desbrowe.
Close by the west point of Cape Philip Broke lay a strange object on
the land-ice. The light grey and whitish colour at first made us think
that it was a bear, but afterwards we found it to be an old walrus; it
lay close to a hole in the ice. We approached it stealthily, and the
first shot took effect. It was about ten feet long and nine feet in
circumference near the fore-fins. We were glad of this capture, as in
case the voyage should be hindered, we were at least supplied with
meat and fuel for some weeks.
We now collected our apparatus and brought them down to the Cape,
together with the tent. At nine p.m. we had the pleasure of seeing
the little Germania sailing slowly towards us, though still at some
considerable distance. At midnight it was pretty dark, but we could
see to read in the tent. At one a.m. I went out; the ship was nearer,
and a column of smoke showed that she was under steam. I went far out
on to the ice to speak privately to the captain, but I might have
saved myself the trouble, for those on shore heard every word of the
conversation, the air was so still and clear. The ship was worked
chiefly at low pressure on account of the young ice, although it was
not more than one-half to three-quarters of an inch thick; but with
each motion of the ship the ice was pushed layer upon layer, until at
last she was brought to a stand-still, and only by backing and running
ahead did they at length reach the anchor-ground. The rest of the day
was passed in measuring and skinning the walrus. Near the Esquimaux
huts we saw a block of quartz, two feet and a half in diameter, the
surface of which was wonderfully worn and polished. Had it been used as
a sharpening stone, or for what other purpose?
On this day our attention was first drawn to the peculiar unearthly
moaning and groaning of the ice-floes as they were forced against the
land by the tide, and as I was coming from the ship over the ice to
land unarmed, I cannot deny that a feeling of terror seized me, and I
looked round to see the unknown animal from whence the sound proceeded.
I afterwards discovered the true cause, however.
On the 27th Payer and his party returned full of the wonders of the
Tellplatte; their tour had been most satisfactory.
We now held a consultation, and all agreed that for the moment there
was no prospect of getting further northward; so at four p.m. we
steamed for Klein-Pendulum, which we reached at half-past eleven p.m.
Since the 12th of August the sun had again risen and set for us, and at
midnight it was already twilight, so that for the first time for two
months we could see the bright stars, and at midnight on deck we could
see to read the smallest print.
These uniform and uneventful days on Shannon Island were useful to us,
in so far that they showed us the capabilities as well as deficiencies
in our tents, coverings, cooking apparatus, and so on.
So much for Dr. Copeland and his party. We will now give some account
of Lieutenant Payer’s first sledge journey to the Tellplatte.
On the 16th of August, on the plateau north of Cape Philip Broke, Payer
had measured a base 1600 fathoms long, and in order to conclude this
work he on the 25th started on a small sledge journey, accompanied
by Sengstacke, Ellinger, and Iversen, to the south-west of Shannon,
called the Tellplatte. They pulled a small sledge, without either tent
or sleeping-sack, across the monotonous snow-fields of Freeden Bay. A
layer of fog hung over it only a few fathoms high, disguising the real
distance from the travellers. Suddenly icebergs emerged like ghosts
from the surrounding fog, apparently far off, yet close at hand; then
a yellowish spot began to move, and a bear stood a few steps from
the sledgedrawers. To halt and fire was the work of a moment, and,
after a vain attempt to rise again, the bear died at the feet of the
travellers. Gradually the sun broke through the fog, and the terraces
of the Tellplatte looked like a violet silhouette.
The further they advanced the more impractible the ice became, being
perforated by numerous springs. With some trouble they at length
reached the lowlands to the west of the bay; here the sledge remained
behind as the land was perfectly free from snow. And after dividing the
baggage the wanderers continued their ascent, when after fifteen hours’
march they reached the highest point of the Tellplatte (670 ft. above
the sea).
“Here on the broad mountain top were masses of rubbish of gneiss
formation resembling those on Pendulum Island. We were also astonished
by the sight of a large flat promontory (south of Haystack), which is
not distinctly marked on Clavering’s charts. The view of the front
coast of Greenland was full of majestic beauty.”
Brown and blue lines of mountains with their sharp pinnacles rose in
the warmth of the midnight sun on the other side of a snow desert some
miles broad, long shadows lying on those parts turned from the sun.
Whilst for six hours Payer was busy with measure and theodolite, his
companions had discovered a herd of musk-oxen and killed two of them.
Heavily laden they returned to the sledge at midnight. The sun had
gone down some hours. The mountain country had taken those fantastic
hues of deep red and violet, even to the coldest, palest toning of the
snow; in the zenith shone a faint whitish blue; to the south a lively
greyish blue; and the newly-risen copper-coloured moon, distorted
by refraction, shone in every little mirrored surface of the young
ice. The temperature of the snow had fallen to 20° Fahr., so that
the travellers in their thin shoes were on the point of freezing. A
drowsiness crept over them, Cape Philip Broke seemed unattainable;
at last they reached the place where the dead bear lay, and, after
thirty-three hours’ absence, Cape Philip Broke (seven German miles). On
the same day (26th August), the Germania returned from Pendulum Island,
but only to start again on the 27th for the same place with the whole
community.
Dr. Börgen gives the following description of the excursion to
Klein-Pendulum, from the 27th to the 31st of August.
Whilst Lieut. Payer surveyed the land and roamed through the island, we
were chained to the shore by astronomical and magnetic observations.
But we did not altogether miss interesting things; we were much amused
by the confidence of the sand-pipers, with their melancholy “tut-tut”
coming close to us. The ducks, however, were more shy, who with their
young ones were evidently on an excursion (as they do not nest on
Pendulum).
Near the place where we had pitched our tent we found some winter huts,
the digging up of which brought much to light that was useful for our
collection.
Even Dr. Pansch, whose wound was beginning to heal, would not remain
inactive, and spent the sunny day in looking for botanical specimens.
The wind was rough, and, though the Stufenberg protected us, on the
whole, from the north wind, it sometimes rushed down the steep sides
and slopes like a whirlwind, against which our little tent could make
no resistance. We were, therefore, obliged to lay it down, to prevent
its being torn in pieces; and Pansch, who had to be careful of catching
cold in his wound, and had lain down to rest, was completely wound up
in the violently-blowing canvas, much to our amusement and his own
discomfiture.
At last, on the 31st of August, when our work was finished, we started
to view the island, making an excursion to ascertain the barometrical
height of some of the tops. The Stufenberg was our first destination;
on the top we found a large plateau, narrowing towards the north, and
also sinking to rise on the other side into a similar though smaller
plateau, separated from the Stufenberg by a great valley. From this
second high plateau run several small ridges, which again rise to small
low summits, leaving valleys between, more or less broad in extent.
From here we went through the above-mentioned valley, and then over
the south-easterly declivity of the Stufenberg plateau to the south
shore, which we reached at two o’clock. The height of the Stufenberg
was 1512 feet, and that of the highest mountain, 1985 feet. Such was
the scientific knowledge acquired on this tour. But the kitchen, too,
profited by this excursion, for we brought home four hares and some
ducks!