BRIGHTON
"Kind, cheerful, merry Dr. Brighton." Thackeray's testimonial is as apt
to-day as when it was written, but the doctor is not one of the
traditional type. Here is no bedside manner and no misplaced sympathy,
in fact he is rather a hardhearted old gentleman to those patients who
are really ill in mind or body and his remedies are of the "hair of the
dog that bit you" type.
Londoners take Brighton as a matter of course and--as Londoners--are
rarely enthusiastic. It takes a Frenchman to give the splendid line of
buildings which forms the finest front in the world the admiration that
is certainly its due. When one has had time to dissect the great town,
appreciation is keener; there are several Brightons; there is a town
built on a cliff, another with spacious lawns on the sea level, and a
third, the old Brighton, bounded by the limits of the original fishing
village, and, with all its brilliance, having a distinctly briny smell
as of fish markets and tarred rope and sun-baked seaweed when you are
near the shingle. This last is nearly an ever-present scent, for the
sun is seldom absent summer or winter; in fact it is when the days are
shortest that Brighton is at its best; The clear brilliance of the air
when the Capital is full of fog and even the Weald between is covered
with a cold pall of mist, makes the south side of the Downs another
climate. Richard Jeffries, almost as great a town hater as Cobbet, has
a good word for Brighton. "Let nothing cloud the descent of those
glorious beams of sunlight which fall at Brighton" (referring to its
treelessness). "Watch the pebbles on the beach; the foam runs up and
wets them, almost before it can slip back the sunshine has dried them
again. So they are alternately wetted and dried. Bitter sea and glowing
light, dry as dry--that describes the place. Spain is the country of
sunlight, burning sunlight, Brighton is a Spanish town in England, a
Seville."
The history of Brighton is the history of Piccadilly, but although the
Prince Regent is usually credited with the discovery of the town, this
title to fame must be given to a doctor of Lewes named Russel, who
wrote a book on the virtues of sea water as applied to the person. This
was published in 1750, and from that time must be dated the rise of
England's first sea resort, for almost immediately patients eager for
the new cure came thronging from London by post-chaise and family
coach, and the doctor soon removed from his native town to attend them.
The "cure" became the mode, and in 1783, when the Prince made his first
visit, the fortune of the town was assured.
After a hundred years that ended with the Mid-Victorians the
exclusiveness of Brighton gave way to the excursion train, and though
still a fashionable place, it is now more than ever London-by-the-sea
and caters with true courtliness for coster and duke.
Brighton was never a "steps to the sea" for anywhere but London, and
its beginnings as a small but independent fishing settlement are very
remote; according to some seventeenth century writers it once boasted
walls and upwards of two thousand inhabitants, but through the
depredations of the sea, it had dwindled to a mere hamlet, and cut off
by the Downs and away from all the usual channels of communication, the
self-sufficiency of the place must have received a rude shock when the
first visitors arrived, but natives of the coast are notoriously
adaptable and know a "sure thing." The following account written in
1766 shows how quickly the town was preparing for its great future.
"Brighthelmstone, in the County of Sussex, is distant from London 57
miles, is a small, ill-built town, situate on the sea coast, at present
greatly resorted to in the summer time by persons labouring under
various disorders for the benefit of bathing and drinking sea water,
and by the gay and polite on account of the company which frequent it
at that season. Until within a few years it was no better than a mere
fishing town, inhabited by fishermen and sailors, but through the
recommendation of Dr. Russel, and by the means of his writing in favour
of sea water, it is become one of the principal places in the kingdom
for the resort of the idle and dissipated, as well as the diseased and
infirm."
"It contains six principal streets, five (East Street, Black Lion
Street, Ship Street, Middle Street, West Street) lie parallel with each
other, and are terminated by the sea. The sixth, North Street, running
along the ends of the other five, from the assembly house almost to the
church. The church, which is a very ancient structure, is situate at a
small distance from the town, upon an eminence, from which there is an
exceedingly fine view of the sea, and in the churchyard is a monument
erected to the memory of Captain Nicholas Tattersell, who assisted King
Charles II in his escape after the Battle of Worcester.
"The house in which the King was concealed is kept by a publican who
has hung the King's head for his sign. The church is a rectory, and the
Rev. Mr. Mitchell is the present incumbent; besides the church there
are three other places of worship, one for Presbyterians, another for
Quakers, and a third for Methodists, which last is lately erected at
the expense of the Countess of Huntingdon adjoining her house, through
which there is a communication. There are two assembly rooms, which are
opened on different nights, one kept by Mr. Shergold, and the other by
Mr. Hicks, who also keeps the coffee-house. The place on which the
company usually walk in the evening is a large field near the sea,
called the Stean, which is kept in proper order for that purpose, and
whereon several shops with piazzas and benches therein are erected, as
is also a building to perform in when the weather will permit. There is
also a small battery towards the sea. At a little distance from the
town is a mineral spring which is said to be a very fine one though
little used. Upon the hills near the church the Isle of Wight is
frequently seen on a clear day. About the town are very pleasant Downs
for the company to ride on, the air of which is accounted extremely
wholesome, and about eight miles from Brighthelmstone on the Downs is
one of the finest prospects in the world called Devil's Dyke."
The literary associations of Brighton are many and various. Charles
Lamb lived for some years is Sussex House, Ship Street. Paston House
was the home of William Black before he removed to Rottingdean.
Ainsworth produced a goodly portion of his historical novels at No. 5,
Arundel Terrace, and at 4 Percival Terrace, Herbert Spencer spent the
last years of his life and here died. The name of Holyoake, the social
reformer, is connected with Eastern Lodge, Camelford Street. A list of
such names might be extended indefinitely, and if the celebrities who
have been regular visitors were mentioned the record would be endless,
though it is said that Robert Browning never entered the town. Dr.
Johnson stayed in West Street, when the Thrales lived there; he bathed
with the rest and, unlike the rest, abused the surroundings in his
usual manner, declaring that a man would soon be so overcome by the
dismalness of the Downs that he would hang himself if he could but find
a tree strong enough to bear his weight!
Every Dickensian would like to identify the house which the creator of
Paul Dombey had in mind when he painted the inimitable portrait of Mrs.
Pipchin, "ogress and child queller," whose castle "was in a steep bye
street.... where the small front gardens had the property of producing
nothing but marigolds, whatever was sown in them; and where snails were
constantly discovered holding on to the street doors.... In the winter
time the air couldn't be got out of the Castle, and in the summer time
it couldn't be got in.... It was not naturally a fresh smelling house;
and in the window of the front parlour, which was never opened, Mrs.
Pipchin kept a collection of plants in pots, which imparted an earthy
flavour of their own to the establishment."
Little Paul afterwards went to Dr. Blimber's, which "was a mighty fine
house fronting the sea"; this has been identified as being on or near
the site now occupied by the Metropole. Thackeray, whose verdict on the
town is quoted at the head of this chapter, laid several scenes among
these squares and crescents and gave to one of his greatest characters
the town's best known feature as a title.
The extraordinary and incongruous building in the Steyne known as the
Pavilion was built by Nash at the instigation of George IV. The
architect cannot be entirely blamed for the monstrosity, the general
idea and "style" was no doubt conceived by his patron. This is how the
Pavilion impressed Cobbett: "Take a square box the sides of which are
three feet and a half and the height a foot and a half. Take a large
Norfolk turnip, cut of the green of the leaves, leave the stalk nine
inches long, tie these round with a string three inches from the top,
and put the turnip on the middle of the top of the box. Then take four
turnips of half the size, treat them in the same way, and put them on
the corners of the box. Then take a considerable number of bulbs, of
the Crown-Imperial, the narcissus, the hyacinth, the tulip, the crocus
and others; let the leaves of each have sprouted to about an inch more
or less according to the size of the bulb; put all these pretty
promiscuously but pretty thickly on top of the box. Then stand off and
look at your architecture."
[Illustration: THE PAVILION, BRIGHTON.]
The building now belongs to the town, and the stables (The "Dome") form
a very fine concert hall. The adjacent buildings, all part of the
Pavilion, are used as Museum, Library and Picture Gallery. The
residence of Mrs. Fitzherbert still overlooks the Steyne, up the steps
of this house Barrymore drove his carriage and pair to the great
detriment of both house and equipage. The Y.M.C.A. now occupy the
premises. One of the best descriptions of the Regent's Brighton is in
"Rodney Stone."
It was about 1826 that the greatest growth in building took place; from
about this period date those magnificent squares, Regency and Brunswick
in Hove, and Sussex Square in Kemp Town.
The Steyne is now a pleasant public garden; it was originally the
"Stane" or rock upon which fishing nets were dried. St. Peter's
Church at the north end was built in 1824 by Barry, and for its
period is not unpleasing. In Church Street is the only ancient church
in Brighton; it is dedicated to St. Nicholas; and was to a great
extent rebuilt in 1853. Note its fine gilt screen and the Norman font
with a representation of the Lord's Supper and certain scenes connected
with the sea, but too archaic to be actually identified. In a chantry
chapel is the Wellington memorial, an ornate cross eighteen feet high.
The Duke was a worshipper here while a pupil of the then vicar, and the
restoration of the church was a part of the memorial scheme. Captain
Tattersell, who was instrumental in the escape of Charles II, is buried
in the churchyard and a monument sets forth--
"When Charles ye great was nothing but a breath,
This valiant soul stept between him and death."
Here is also a memorial to Phoebe Hessel, who fought as a private in
the fifth regiment of foot at the Battle of Fontenoy and died here aged
108.
There are several fine churches which have been built during recent
years, including St. Paul's in West Street; every excursionist knows
this, and to thousands it is the only church in Brighton, being on
the direct route from the station to the sea. St. Martin's and St.
Bartholomew's are open all day and are well worth a visit. Trinity
Chapel was the scene for six years of the incumbency of F.W. Robertson,
and another preacher of more recent fame, R.J. Campbell, was for a time
the Minister of Union Street Congregational Church.
[Illustration: ST. NICHOLAS, BRIGHTON.]
The old Chain Pier was, next to the Pavilion, the most distinctive
feature of the town; built in 1823 and paved with stone, it was
historic as the first pleasure pier. Swept away by a storm on the night
of December 4, 1896, old Brightonians must have felt that something had
gone from their lives when they looked from their windows next morning.
One of the "institutions" of Brighton is the Aquarium; it contains a
very good collection of Marine exhibits, not as much appreciated as
they should be. Of late years extra attractions have had to be added
and concerts and other entertainments help to keep the glass tanks and
their occupants popular.
Kemp Town, named after its speculative builder, has been but briefly
alluded to; it is to many the most attractive part of the great town,
rising at the east end to a respectable height above the sea and with
fine views of the Channel. Unlike its parent it has no "history"
whatever. King Edward, during the last years of his life, took a liking
to this part of Brighton, and in his honour the district was officially
renamed "King's Cliff," but the new style does not seem to have become
popular. On the other hand Hove, with its "Lawns" and imposing squares,
has a past; the following note appears in the _Gentleman's Magazine_
dated 1792: "Hoove, by some spelled Hove or Hova, lies on the road
between Brighthelmstone and New Shoreham, about two miles from the
former and four from the latter. It was one of the many lordships in
the county of Sussex which the Conqueror's survey records to have been
the estate of Godwin Earl of Kent, in Edward the Confessor's time, and
which after his death passed to his eldest son Harold, who being
afterwards King, was slain by the Norman Duke, who seized his lands and
gave them to his followers. Long after this time, this place was as
large and as considerable a village as the county could boast; but it
is reduced, by the encroachment of the sea at different times, to about
a dozen dwellings. This place gives title to a prebend in the cathedral
of Chichester; and the living, which is a vicarage united to Preston,
is in the gift of the prebendary. Divine service is only performed in
the church once in six weeks, and, by appearance of the ruinous state
in which it at present is, that will be soon entirely neglected." This
church, dedicated to St. Andrew, has been practically rebuilt, though
some of the ancient features have been retained. Near the chancel door
is the grave of Charlotte Elliot, the hymn writer. Admiral Westphal,
one of the officers of Nelson's "Victory," is also interred here. The
new parish church--All Saints--is of great magnificence and has cost
about £50,000.
[Illustration: ST. PETER'S, BRIGHTON.]
The western end of Hove, if we may believe some experts, has claims to
a higher antiquity than any other locality between Pevensey and Bosham.
Aldrington, as this district is called, is conjectured to have been the
Roman "Portus Adurni," of which Shoreham would then be the lineal
descendant. On the other hand the identification of this mysterious
place with any part of Sussex has been seriously challenged. The
estuary of the Adur then extended to Bramber. A glance at the two-inch
Ordnance map of the district will make the old course of the river
quite clear. In Hove Park is the famous "grey wether," called the
"Goldstone." This used to lay in Goldstone Bottom between the railway
and the Downs. Inspecting antiquaries proved such a nuisance that the
farmer on whose land it lay determined to bury it out of sight; this
almost superhuman task was performed in 1833 and the stone remained in
the ground until 1902 when it was exhumed.
Preston, the northern extension of Brighton, originally a small place
on the London road, has a pleasant park from which the suburb takes its
name. The one object of interest to the tourist is the Early English
church which has some remarkable frescoes; these represent the murder
of St. Thomas of Canterbury, with Our Lord revealing himself to the
martyr; on the opposite side St. Michael is shown weighing a soul. In
the nave is another picture of the nativity. A destructive fire, a few
years ago, greatly damaged these and also the fabric of the church.
Careful repair, however, has to a great extent restored the building to
its original condition The altar consists of a seventeenth century
tomb. The old font was taken away to St. Saviour's Church, but has been
very properly replaced.
Brighton is not the best centre for the exploration of the central Down
country. If a coast town is chosen Worthing is much better; from there
the real country is quickly reached, although the hills themselves are
farther away. But there are one or two excursions which obviously
belong to Brighton, the most important being that to the Devil's Dyke
and Poynings. A rather dull walk of over five miles from the Steyne,
retrieved during the last two by fine views on the left hand, will
bring us to the old stone posts labelled "The Dyke." This road passes
an interesting Museum of Ornithology collected by the late E.T. Booth.
Here are to be seen cases of wild birds in their natural surroundings
planned with greatest care by Mr. Booth, who gave a lifelong study to
the habits and environment of British birds. On the occasions on which
the writer has visited the collection no other persons were present,
and few residents seem to have heard of it.
Trains run at frequent intervals from Brighton Central to the Dyke and
public conveyances from the Aquarium. The excursion should not be
missed, though the visitor who is a stranger must be prepared for a
regrettable amount of waste paper and broken bottles left about to mar
what would otherwise be one of the finest scenes in the Downs.
Refreshment stalls and tea gardens help to vulgarize the surroundings,
though the added desecration of aerial railway across the Dyke has been
removed.
The local legend is almost too well known to bear repetition. The
Sussex native has a dislike, probably derived from his remote
ancestors, to refer directly to the Devil, so the story has it that the
"Poor Man," becoming enraged at the number of churches built in the
Weald, conceived the idea of drowning them by letting in the sea; he
had half finished the great trench, being forced (like his remote
prototype) to work at night, when an old lady, hearing the noise of
digging, put her candle in a sieve and looked out of the window. The
Devil took it for sunrise and disappeared, a very simple fiend indeed!
[Illustration: POYNINGS.]
The view from the edge of the escarpment with Poynings just below to
the right is very beautiful; away to the south-west is an eminence
called "Thunder's Barrow," probably Thor's Barrow; at the lower end of
the Dyke is the Devil's Punch Bowl, here are two more barrows "The
Devil's Grave" and "The Devil's Wife's Grave."
A visit to Poynings (locally "Punnings") should be combined with this
excursion; this is a really pleasant and, as yet, unspoilt village. One
feels nervous for its future, but the good taste of the inhabitants,
combined with the formidable barrier of the hills, will, it is hoped,
prevent it ever becoming a mere congeries of tea gardens and like
amenities. The fine cruciform church has a central tower and is Early
Perpendicular; built by Baron de Poynings in the late fourteenth
century it has many interesting details. Note the old thurible used as
an alms box. The great south window was brought here from Chichester
Cathedral. There is some good carved wood in the pulpit and rails. The
ruins of Poynings Place, the one-time home of the Fitz-Rainalts, Barons
of Poynings, may still be seen.
Newtimber Hill immediately east of the village is rarely visited and
therefore is not rendered unsightly in the manner of the Dyke. The view
is equally good and the Downs westward appear to even better advantage
from this outlying point. A return could be made from Newtimber to
Pycombe, once famous for its manufacture of shepherds crooks--"Pycoom
Hooks." The village lies in the pass by which the London-Brighton road
crosses the Downs. The old church has a twelfth century leaden font and
a double piscina and is one of the highest in Sussex, being situated
400 feet above the sea. This walk could very well be extended to
include Wolstonbury Hill and Hurstpierpoint.
The road running west from Poynings at the foot of the Downs would
bring us to Fulking where is a memorial fountain to John Ruskin erected
by a brewer. Another two miles along it is Edburton, an unspoilt
village under the shadow of Trueleigh Hill; the fine Early English
church has a pulpit and altar rails presented by Archbishop Laud and a
leaden font of the early twelfth century. Nine miles north of Brighton
by road, and about half-way between the two London highways, either of
which may be taken, lies the large village or small town locally called
"Hurst" and by the world at large, more romantically, Hurstpierpoint.
The situation, with its wide and beautiful views over the surrounding
country from Leith Hill and Blackdown to the ever present line of the
Downs on the south, make it one of the pleasantest places in Sussex for
a prolonged stay. St. John's College is one of the Woodard schools in
connexion with Lancing foundation (see page 103); it is a fine building
with an imposing chapel. The church is modern and was designed by Sir
Charles Barry. In the south transept is an effigy of an unknown
crusader and another of a knight in the north aisle. A brass in the
chapel commemorates the fact that the martyred Bishop Hannington was
born and held a curacy here. There are a number of memorials to the
Campions, local squires and present owners of Danny; one of them runs
thus:--
"Reader, bewail thy country's loss in the death of Henry Campion. In
his life admire a character most amiable and venerable, of the Friend
and Gentleman, and Christian."
[Illustration: DANNY.]
Danny is a beautiful specimen of the Elizabethan mansion at its best;
it is built under the shadow of Wolstonbury Hill, one of the finest in
shape of the outstanding bastions of the Downs, on the top of which is
a circular camp with several pits within the vallum. The twin woods on
the slope of the hill are locally known as "Campion's Eyebrows," they
are well seen in the accompanying sketch.
[Illustration: HURSTPIERPOINT.]
Hurstpierpoint may also be easily visited from Hassocks Station (2
miles), from which we may also start on the last stage of our return to
Lewes. One mile east of the station is Keymer, a pleasant little place
with an uninteresting church which has been practically rebuilt.
Ditchling, a mile further, has a very fine Transitional and Early
English church which will repay a visit. The nave is severely plain in
the older style; the chancel shows some untouched and very beautiful
workmanship. The east window is Geometrical, as are several in the
nave, others are Decorated and, in the transept, Perpendicular. Note
the old font which was evidently at one time coloured; also the aumbry,
piscina and sedile. The chalk arches are finely worked. In the village
are several old timber houses, including one said to have been
inhabited by Anne of Cleves.
A walk of about two miles past Wick Farm or by Westmeston, over half a
mile farther, brings the traveller to the summit of this section of the
Downs--Ditchling Beacon (813 feet). Until more accurate surveys were
made this was supposed to be the highest point of the whole range.
"This most commanding down is crowned with the grassy mound and
trenches of an ancient earthwork, from whence there is a noble view of
hill and plain. The inner slope of the green fosse is inclined at an
angle pleasant to recline on, with the head just below the edge, in the
summer sunshine. A faint sound as of a sea heard in a dream--a sibilant
'sish, sish'--passes along outside, dying away and coming again as a
fresh wave of the wind rushes through the bennets and the dry grass."
(Richard Jefferies.)
[Illustration: WOLSTONBURY.]
The views from Ditchling, though fine, are not nearly the best, for
there is a tameness in the immediate country to the north. A glorious
walk, however, can be taken by keeping along the edge past "Black Cap,"
the clump of trees about two miles east, and then either over or round
Mount Harry to Lewes. Those who must see all the settlements of men
should proceed downwards to Westmeston, a beautiful little place
embowered in trees, some of which are magnificent in shape and size,
particularly the great ash at the east of the church which is literally
overshadowed by the Beacon. The building is uninteresting and the mural
paintings dating from the twelfth century, which were discovered about
fifty years ago, have not been preserved. It was near here that Baring
Gould speaks of seeing the carcasses of two horses and three calves
hanging in a elm; on inquiry he was informed that this was considered
"lucky for cattle."
About a mile and a half north and two miles east of Ditchling village
is the lonely hamlet of Street. The "Place" is a grand old house dating
from the reign of the first James; behind the chimney of the hall was
once a spacious hiding place and a story is told of a Royalist fugitive
who _rode into it on his horse_ and was never again seen. The restored
church has a number of iron grave slabs and a monument to Martha
Cogger, who was a "Pattern of Piety and Politeness."
Nearly two miles on the Lewes road is Plumpton, chiefly famed for its
steeplechases which are held two miles away in the Weald and close to
Plumpton station. The church is uninteresting. The "Place" is an old
moated house, the property of Lord Chichester. The Leonard Mascall who
lived here in the sixteenth century is said to have introduced the
first carp from the Danube, the moat being used as their nursery.
Notice the great V in firs on the face of the Downs; this is a memorial
of the Victorian Jubliee; not particularly beautiful and leading one to
speculate upon its permanence. A cutting in the chalk would probably
recommend itself to the pious care of coming ages when the personage
commemorated had either been entirely forgotten or had developed into a
legendary heroine of fictitious character. That even cuttings are not
always permanent is proved close by, for only occasionally can the
cross cut to commemorate the great battle of Lewes be seen; the turf
shows but a different shade of green at certain times and under certain
atmospheric conditions.
The road to Lewes continues under the shadow of Mount Harry and
eventually drops to the Lewes-London highway near Offham, remarkable as
being the first place in the south where a line of rails was used for
the passage of goods. A turn to the right and we soon reach Lewes near
St. Anne's Church.