SEAFORD TO BRIGHTON
The direct route to Brighton for pedestrians is by a footpath which
leaves Lewes at the west end of Southover Street; this leads to the
summit of Newmarket Hill and thence to the Racecourse and Kemp Town. No
villages are passed and but few houses, and the six miles of Down,
although so near a great town, are as lonely as any other six in
Sussex. The high road leaves the town by the Battlefield road past St.
Anne's church and follows the railway closely until the tram lines on
the outskirts of Brighton are reached; this route passes Falmer,
north-west of which lies the beautiful Stanmer Park, seat of the Earl
of Chichester.
[Illustration: THE BRIGHTON DOWNS.]
It will be best, however, to take the Newhaven road from Southover
which hugs the foot of the Downs and in a short two miles reaches
Iford. About half-way a turning to the right leads to the snug little
village of Kingston with the hills rising closely all round. This place
was once the property of Sir Philip Sidney. The remains of an ancient
house belonging to the Priory at Lewes are to be seen in the old
farmhouse named Swanborough which lies between Kingston and Iford. The
architecture is Perpendicular, and Early English; permission should be
obtained to examine the interesting details which, include a venerable
oak table in the kitchen. Iford Church is a Norman building with a
central tower and an Early English font.
A little over a mile farther is Rodmell with very fine Norman details
in the church, which has the rare feature of a baptistery. The early
Decorated screen is good; note also the squint with a shaft in the
centre. Here is a brass dated 1433 in memory of Agatha Broke, on the
back of which is another inscription to some one else of the
seventeenth century. The church is surrounded by magnificent trees,
and of especial note is the huge holm oak which overshadows the rest.
The village inn has on its walls a quaint and amusing collection of
precepts for its habitués which might well be duplicated elsewhere.
Southease, the next village, has another of the three round towers of
Sussex, and Piddinghoe, two miles farther, the third. These towers are
a matter of puzzled conjecture to archaeologists; all three, Lewes,
Southease and Piddinghoe are on the western bank of the Ouse. The
suggestion that they were originally beacon towers is not very
convincing, though the Ouse at the time they were built was a wider and
deeper stream, forming in fact an estuary haven. The more prosaic
explanation is that lack of stone for the quoins, which every square
flint tower must have, led the builders to adopt this form. In any
case, a beacon fire from a square tower is as effectual as from a round
one. Piddinghoe has many associations with the smuggling days which
have given birth to some quaint sayings, as "Pidd'nhoo they dig for
moonshine,"--"At Pidd'nhoo they dig for smoke," etc., but we fail to
see the point in "Magpies are shod at Pidd'nhoo."
[Illustration: NEWHAVEN CHURCH.]
Seven miles from Lewes stands the rather mean port of Newhaven. After
many years of neglect and decay this Elizabethan sea-gate is once more
of great importance in continental traffic. Much money and skill were
expended during the latter half of the nineteenth century in improving
the harbour and building a breakwater and new quays. Louis Philippe
landed here in 1848, having left Havre in his flight from France in the
steamer "Express"; he was received by William Catt, who at one time
owned the tide mills at Bishopstone; this worthy was a well known
Sussex character and is immortalized by Lower. Newhaven has little to
show the visitor beyond the small Norman church which has a chancel
apse at the east of the tower. This portion is interesting but the nave
has suffered from ignorant tinkering under the alias of "restoration."
In the churchyard is a monument to those who perished in the wreck of
the "Brazen" sloop of war in 1800 off the harbour, and another to a
local brewer of the one-time famous "Tipper" ale, made from brackish
water. The town was once called Meeching; this name is perpetuated in
"Meeching Place" where a descendant of William Catt still lives.
[Illustration: BISHOPSTONE CHURCH PORCH.]
On the east of the Ouse is a much more interesting halt for the
tourist in the small village of Bishopstone. The small remains of the
tide mills just referred to are near the station. The very fine Norman
church is about a mile away on the road to the Downs. The four storied
tower is almost unique. Each stage diminishes in size, thus dispensing
with buttresses; in this respect it is similar to Newhaven. Notice
under the short spire a quaint corbel table. The south porch is
extremely interesting as Saxon work though the mouldings are probably
later enrichments by Norman workmen. Over the door is a stone dial with
a cross and the name EADRIC. The interior is a good example of the
change from round to pointed, the pure Norman of the east end gradually
changing to Early English at the west. The combination of Norman
ornament with the later style is almost unique in Sussex. In the vestry
an interesting stone slab is shown; this was discovered during the
restoration. It bears the carved presentment of a lamb, a cross, and
two doves drinking. At this time a stone coffin lid, and a hidden
fourteenth-century niche in the porch were also discovered. In the
chancel is a memorial to James Hurdis, formerly Vicar of the parish,
the author of _The Village Curate_, which has been likened to Cowper's
_Task_; the verses are full of shrewd wit and local colour.
One mile south-east is the village of East Blatchington, now a suburb
of Seaford; the restored church is Norman and Early English. In the
south wall is a curious recess in Decorated style, the real use of
which has not yet been discovered. Notice the sedilia and projecting
piscina, and the tablet to the memory of the famous aeronaut, Coxwell,
who died here in 1900.
Seaford was once an ancient port at the mouth of the Ouse before that
river forsook its old channel for the outlet where is now the "New
Haven." An important satellite of Hastings and ranking as one of the
lesser Cinque ports, the old town saw much history-making during the
French wars and suffered accordingly. Its actual foundation dates at
least from Roman times as is proved by the fragments of sculpture,
coins, etc., dug up at different times during the last two hundred
years. At the rear of the East Cliff, near a footpath leading to
Chyngton, are traces of a Roman cemetery with possible evidence of
earlier British burials.
In the town itself are some interesting though scanty remains of
mediaeval times. In the garden of a house named "The Folly" is a
vaulted room the origin of which has never been satisfactorily
explained. It is possibly part of the Ancient Hospital of St. Leonard.
The open space at the higher end of the town is called "The Crouch" a
name that is a corruption of "The Crux." The fine old Hardwicke House
in Broad Street is dated 1603. At one time it was a lodging-house, but
its fortunes have lately risen. Seaford House was once the temporary
residence of Tennyson.
Seaford church is dedicated to St. Leonard and is Norman as far as the
tower is concerned, of which the embattlement is modern; note the
crosses in black flints on three of the sides. The base of the walls of
the church date from this period, rising through Transitional to
Perpendicular. The detail has been largely spoilt through restoration.
Note the capitals of the pillars which are most elaborately worked,
that near the south door having a representation of the Crucifixion
carved upon it.
[Illustration: SEAFORD CHURCH.]
Millburgh House was once the property of a noted smuggler named
Whitfield, whose immunity from punishment was obtained by judicious
presents of choice wines in high quarters. Tales of the old smuggling
days would fill many pages, and undoubtedly the profession formed the
major commercial asset not only of Seaford but of more important Sussex
towns both on the coast and on the roads leading to the capital.
Lower has recorded many interesting facts about the long war between
the revenue officers and the natives, relieved at all times by the
unfailing humour of the law-breakers, who took a keen delight in
fooling the exciseman. It was but infrequently that real tragedy took
place; considering the times, and the manner of those times, the
records of Sussex are fairly clean. Such brutal murders as that of
Chater in 1748, which crime was expiated at Chichester, were rare. The
professionals were nearly all men of substance and standing in the
land. The marine smuggler was of course a separate breed whose
adventures and danger were of a different sort and, despite the glamour
of the sea, of much less interest and excitement; on the other hand
most of the inhabitants of such places as Alfriston had one or more of
the male members of the family engaged in the trade, and many are the
houses which still have secret vaults and chambers for the reception of
the goods, chiefly wine, brandy, silk and tea. Most of the churches
between Seaford and Lewes have at one time or another proved convenient
temporary storage places, and on more than one occasion Sunday service
has had to be suspended, on one excuse or another, until the building
could be cleared of its congregation of tubs. Lower records that at
Selmeston the smugglers actually used an altar tomb as a store for
spirits, always leaving a tub for the parson.
Seaford in its new rôle as a holiday resort has a serious obstacle to
surmount; the only sea "front" possible is a wide shingle beach
separated from the old town by a nondescript stretch of sandy desert;
when and if this is filled in or converted into a garden the town
should prosper exceedingly, for it has great natural attractions in
Seaford Head which rises to the east and in the glorious Down walks
within easy distance. In actual distance by rail it is, next to
Brighton, the nearest South Coast resort to London and without doubt
has a successful future before it. It is but little over two miles to
the Cuckmere valley past the Roman camp and over the Head. The views of
the "Seven Sisters" and on to Beachy Head from this point are very
fine, and the great cliff itself, though much lower, is almost as
interesting as the Eastbourne height. For one thing the wild life of
the precipice is more easily studied, the crowds which on most summer
days throng the more popular Head are not met with here. The writer has
spent a June morning quite alone but for the myriad birds wheeling
around and scolding at his presumption in being there at all.
[Illustration: SEAFORD HEAD.]
The route now follows the coast road from Newhaven westwards. From the
Portobello coastguard station, four miles from Newhaven Bridge, a road
runs across the downs to the beautiful little village of Telscombe,
nestling in a secluded combe in the heart of the hills; by-roads and
footpaths also lead here by delightful ways from Southease and
Piddinghoe. The church is old and interesting, quite unspoilt by any
attempt at restoration; note the beautiful font on a marble platform.
Both here and at Rottingdean the artificial height of the churchyard
above the surrounding land will be noticed. Cobbett's explanation for
this is the obvious but rather gruesome one that dust added to dust has
more than doubled the contents of the consecrated ground. From the
comparative heights of the enclosure the author of _Rural Rides_
reckoned the age of the building, a method which made a greater appeal
to him than the rule of Norman round or English point.
Rottingdean has lately made a name for itself by reason of its modern
literary associations. Its connexion with William Black and Rudyard
Kipling is well known. Cardinal Manning and Bulwer Lytton both attended
a once celebrated school kept here by Dr. Hooker. Edward Burne-Jones
has left a lasting memorial of his association with the place in the
beautiful east window of the church which was designed and presented by
the artist. Certain columns in the walls point to the existence of a
Saxon building of which these are the remains. Notice the effect of the
tower in its unusual position between chancel and nave.
The village has a deserved place in the national history, as the
following account will show:--
"In 1377 Hastings was burnt by the French, who also attempted to burn
Winchelsea, but were foiled. They also attacked Rye, where they landed
from five vessels. After plundering and setting it on fire they went
away, leaving the town desolate. They landed at Rottingdean, advanced
over the Downs with the design of laying waste Lewes, but in this were
disappointed by the valour of John de Cariloce, Prior of Lewes, Sir
Thomas Cheney, Constable of Dover Castle, Sir John Falsley, and others,
who upon apprisal of it, hastened their vassals, and were joined by a
number of peasantry, who boldly ascended the Downs, resolved to repel
the invaders. They were insufficient both in number and skill to cope
with the well-trained troops of France. The brave peasantry were
totally routed, but not till one hundred of their party had sacrificed
their lives, and the Prior and the two knights had been made prisoners.
The loss which the French had sustained prevented further
encroachments, and they returned to their ships with their prisoners,
who were conducted to France."
That Rottingdean was known and appreciated over one hundred years ago
will come as a surprise to many. The following account appeared in the
_Gentleman's Magazine_, 1801:--
"The pleasant and delightful village of Rottingdean is situated on the
Newhaven Road, at the distance of nearly four miles from
Brighthelmstone, a popular watering place. This place is no otherwise
remarkable than for its wells, which are nearly empty at high water,
but which rise as the tide declines. This little village has of late
been the resort of a considerable number of genteel company, for which
bathing-machines and every accommodation have been provided. Here are a
variety of lodging houses, a good inn, with convenient stables,
coach-houses, etc. It is most frequented by such families as prefer a
little retirement to the bustle and gaiety of Brighthelmstone, and who
occasionally may wish to mix with the company there, for which its
situation renders it at any time perfectly convenient. The road from
Rottingdean to Brighthelmstone is delightfully pleasant in the summer
season. On one side you have an extensive view of the sea, and on the
other the Downs, covered with innumerable flocks of sheep, so justly
held in estimation for their delicious flavour."
[Illustration: ROTTINGDEAN.]
About two and a half miles from Rottingdean in a lonely dene surrounded
by the Downs is the little hamlet of Balsdean; there is nothing to see
here but a building locally called "The Chapel" (the architecture is
Decorated, with an ancient thatched roof) but the walk will give the
stranger to the district a good idea of the solitude and unique
characteristics of the chalk hills. The curious T-shaped cuttings still
to be seen in the sides of the Downs may be remarked; these are where
the traps set to catch wheatears were set. A great trade was once done
by the Downland peasantry in these "Sussex Ortolans," as they were
called, but of late years the demand has dwindled to vanishing point.
The lover of the picturesque will feel grateful to the powers who
refuse to destroy the deserted windmills which stud the Downs and of
which there is one good example near here. One cannot suppose however
that the object of letting them stand is other than utilitarian; after
a long life of service in their original capacity these daylight
beacons perform the duty of landmarks for seamen in the Channel.
A footpath from Rottingdean just a mile long crosses the Downs to
Ovingdean, another lonely hamlet without inn or shop. An ancient
church, possibly Saxon in part, and a few houses hidden by trees make a
goal of a favourite walk from Brighton. Harrison Ainsworth has made the
little place famous in "Ovingdean Grange," in which romance the
novelist makes it one of the scenes in the flight of Charles II; this
however is incorrect, as it is certain that Brighton was the limit of
the royal fugitive's journey eastwards. The large building on the hill
above Ovingdean is Roedean College for girls; its fine situation and
imposing size make it a landmark, and the seascape from its windows
must be unrivalled.
[Illustration: BRIGHTON.]