CHAPTER II

“EOTHEN”

“EOTHEN” appeared in 1844. Twice, Kinglake tells us, he had essayed the

story of his travels, twice abandoned it under a sense of strong

disinclination to write. A third attempt was induced by an entreaty from

his friend Eliot Warburton, himself projecting an Eastern tour; and to

Warburton in a characteristic preface the narrative is addressed. The

book, when finished, went the round of the London market without finding

a publisher. It was offered to John Murray, who cited his refusal of it

as the great blunder of his professional life, consoling himself with the

thought that his father had equally lacked foresight thirty years before

in declining the “Rejected Addresses”; he secured the copyright later on.

It was published in the end by a personal friend, Ollivier, of Pall Mall,

Kinglake paying £50 to cover risk of loss; even worse terms than were

obtained by Warburton two years afterwards from Colburn, who owned in the

fifties to having cleared £6,000 by “The Crescent and the Cross.” The

volume was an octavo of 418 pages; the curious folding-plate which forms

the frontispiece was drawn and coloured by the author, and was compared

by the critics to a tea-tray. In front is Moostapha the Tatar; the two

foremost figures in the rear stand for accomplished Mysseri, whom

Kinglake was delighted to recognize long afterwards as a flourishing

hotel keeper in Constantinople, and Steel, the Yorkshire servant, in his

striped pantry jacket, “looking out for gentlemen’s seats.” Behind are

“Methley,” Lord Pollington, in a broad-brimmed hat, and the booted leg of

Kinglake, who modestly hid his figure by a tree, but exposed his foot, of

which he was very proud. Of the other characters, “Our Lady of

Bitterness” was Mrs. Procter, “Carrigaholt” was Henry Stuart Burton of

Carrigaholt, County Clare. Here and there are allusions, obvious at the

time, now needing a scholiast, which have not in any of the reprints been

explained. In their ride through the Balkans they talked of old Eton

days. “We bullied Keate, and scoffed at Larrey Miller and Okes; we rode

along loudly laughing, and talked to the grave Servian forest as though

it were the Brocas clump.” {22} Keate requires no interpreter; Okes was

an Eton tutor, afterwards Provost of King’s. Larrey or Laurie Miller was

an old tailor in Keate’s Lane who used to sit on his open shop-board,

facing the street, a mark for the compliments of passing boys; as

frolicsome youngsters in the days of Addison and Steele, as High School

lads in the days of Walter Scott, were accustomed to “smoke the cobler.”

The Brocas was a meadow sacred to badger-baiting and cat-hunts. The

badgers were kept by a certain Jemmy Flowers, who charged sixpence for

each “draw”; Puss was turned out of a bag and chased by dogs, her chance

being to reach and climb a group of trees near the river, known as the

“Brocas Clump.” Of the quotations, “a Yorkshireman hippodamoio” (p. 35)

is, I am told, an _obiter dictum_ of Sir Francis Doyle. “Striving to

attain,” etc. (p. 33), is taken not quite correctly from Tennyson’s

“Timbuctoo.” Our crew were “a solemn company” (p. 57) is probably a

reminiscence of “we were a gallant company” in “The Siege of Corinth.”

For “‘the own armchair’ of our Lyrist’s ‘Sweet Lady Anne’” (p. 161) see

the poem, “My own armchair” in Barry Cornwall’s “English Lyrics.” “Proud

Marie of Anjou” (p. 96) and “single-sin —” (p. 121), are unintelligible;

a friend once asked Kinglake to explain the former, but received for

answer, “Oh! that is a private thing.” It may, however, have been a pet

name for little Marie de Viry, Procter’s niece, and the _chère amie_ of

his verse, whom Eothen must have met often at his friend’s house. The

St. Simonians of p. 83 were the disciples of Comte de St. Simon, a

Parisian reformer in the latter part of the eighteenth century, who

endeavoured to establish a social republic based on capacity and labour.

Père Enfantin was his disciple. The “mystic mother” was a female

Messiah, expected to become the parent of a new Saviour. “Sir Robert

once said a good thing” (p. 93), refers possibly to Sir Robert Peel, not

famous for epigram, whose one good thing is said to have been bestowed

upon a friend before Croker’s portrait in the Academy. “Wonderful

likeness,” said the friend, “it gives the very quiver of the mouth.”

“Yes,” said Sir Robert, “and the arrow coming out of it.” Or it may mean

Sir Robert Inglis, Peel’s successor at Oxford, more noted for his genial

kindness and for the perpetual bouquet in his buttonhole at a date when

such ornaments were not worn, than for capacity to conceive and say good

things. In some mischievous lines describing the Oxford election where

Inglis supplanted Peel, Macaulay wrote

“And then said all the Doctors sitting in the Divinity School,

Not this man, but Sir Robert’—now Sir Robert was a fool.”

But in the fifth and later editions Kinglake altered it to “Sir John.”

By a curious oversight in the first two editions (p. 41) _Jove_ was made

to gaze on Troy from Samothrace; it was rightly altered to Neptune in the

third; and “eagle eye of Jove” in the following sentence was replaced by

“dread Commoter of our globe.” The phrase “a natural Chiffney-bit” (p.

109), I have found unintelligible to-day through lapse of time even to

professional equestrians and stable-keepers. Samuel Chiffney, a famous

rider and trainer, was born in 1753, and won the Derby on Skyscraper in

1789. He managed the Prince of Wales’s stud, was the subject of

discreditable insinuations, and was called before the Jockey Club.

Nothing was proved against him, but in consequence of the _fracas_ the

Prince severed his connection with the Club and sold his horses.

Chiffney invented a bit named after him; a curb with two snaffles, which

gave a stronger bearing on the sides of a horse’s mouth. His rule in

racing was to keep a slack rein and to ride a waiting race, not calling

on his horse till near the end. His son Samuel, who followed him,

observed the same plan; from its frequent success the term “Chiffney

rush” became proverbial. In his ride through the desert (p. 169)

Kinglake speaks of his “native bells—the innocent bells of Marlen, that

never before sent forth their music beyond the Blaygon hills.” Marlen

bells is the local name for the fine peal of St. Mary Magdalen, Taunton.

The Blaygon, more commonly called the Blagdon Hills, run parallel with

the Quantocks, and between them lies the fertile Vale of Taunton Deane.

“Damascus,” he says, on p. 245, “was safer than Oxford”; and adds a note

on Mr. Everett’s degree which requires correction. It is true that an

attempt was made to _non-placet_ Mr. Everett’s honorary degree in the

Oxford Theatre in 1843 on the ground of his being a Unitarian; not true

that it succeeded. It was a conspiracy by the young lions of the

Newmania, who had organized a formidable opposition to the degree, and

would have created a painful scene even if defeated. But the Proctor of

that year, Jelf, happened to be the most-hated official of the century;

and the furious groans of undergraduate displeasure at his presence,

continuing unabated for three-quarters of an hour, compelled Wynter, the

Vice-Chancellor, to break up the Assembly, without recitation of the

prizes, but not without conferring the degrees in dumb show: unconscious

Mr. Everett smilingly took his place in red gown among the Doctors, the

Vice-Chancellor asserting afterwards, what was true in the letter though

not in the spirit, that he did not hear the _non-placets_. So while

Everett was obnoxious to the Puseyites, Jelf was obnoxious to the

undergraduates; the cannonade of the angry youngsters drowned the odium

of the theological malcontents; in the words of Bombastes:

“Another lion gave another roar,

And the first lion thought the last a bore.”

The popularity of “Eothen” is a paradox: it fascinates by violating all

the rules which convention assigns to viatic narrative. It traverses the

most affecting regions of the world, and describes no one of them: the

Troad—and we get only his childish raptures over Pope’s “Homer’s Iliad”;

Stamboul—and he recounts the murderous services rendered by the Golden

Horn to the Assassin whose _serail_, palace, council chamber, it washes;

Cairo—but the Plague shuts out all other thoughts; Jerusalem—but Pilgrims

have vulgarized the Holy Sepulchre into a Bartholomew Fair. He gives us

everywhere, not history, antiquities, geography, description, statistics,

but only _Kinglake_, only his own sensations, thoughts, experiences. We

are told not what the desert looks like, but what journeying in the

desert feels like. From morn till eve you sit aloft upon your voyaging

camel; the risen sun, still lenient on your left, mounts vertical and

dominant; you shroud head and face in silk, your skin glows, shoulders

ache, Arabs moan, and still moves on the sighing camel with his

disjointed awkward dual swing, till the sun once more descending touches

you on the right, your veil is thrown aside, your tent is pitched, books,

maps, cloaks, toilet luxuries, litter your spread-out rugs, you feast on

scorching toast and “fragrant” {28} tea, sleep sound and long; then again

the tent is drawn, the comforts packed, civilization retires from the

spot she had for a single night annexed, and the Genius of the Desert

stalks in.

Herein, in these subjective chatty confidences, is part of the spell he

lays upon us: while we read we are _in_ the East: other books, as

Warburton says, tell us _about_ the East, this is the East itself. And

yet in his company we are always _Englishmen_ in the East: behind

Servian, Egyptian, Syrian, desert realities, is a background of English

scenery, faint and unobtrusive yet persistent and horizoning. In the

Danubian forest we talk of past school-days. The Balkan plain suggests

an English park, its trees planted as if to shut out “some infernal

fellow creature in the shape of a new-made squire”; Jordan recalls the

Thames; the Galilean Lake, Windermere; the Via Dolorosa, Bond Street; the

fresh toast of the desert bivouac, an Eton breakfast; the hungry questing

jackals are the place-hunters of Bridgewater and Taunton; the Damascus

gardens, a neglected English manor from which the “family” has been long

abroad; in the fierce, dry desert air are heard the “Marlen” bells of

home, calling to morning prayer the prim congregation in far-off St.

Mary’s parish. And a not less potent factor in the charm is the

magician’s self who wields it, shown through each passing environment of

the narrative; the shy, haughty, imperious Solitary, “a sort of Byron in

the desert,” of cultured mind and eloquent speech, headstrong and not

always amiable, hiding sentiment with cynicism, yet therefore

irresistible all the more when he condescends to endear himself by his

confidence. He meets the Plague and its terrors like a gentleman, but

shows us, through the vicarious torments of the cowering Levantine that

it was courage and coolness, not insensibility, which bore him through

it. A foe to marriage, compassionating Carrigaholt as doomed to travel

“Vetturini-wise,” pitying the Dead Sea goatherd for his ugly wife,

revelling in the meek surrender of the three young men whom he sees “led

to the altar” in Suez, he is still the frank, susceptible, gallant

bachelor, observantly and critically studious of female charms: of the

magnificent yet formidable Smyrniotes, eyes, brow, nostrils, throat,

sweetly turned lips, alarming in their latent capacity for fierceness,

pride, passion, power: of the Moslem women in Nablous, “so handsome that

they could not keep up their yashmaks:” of Cypriote witchery in hair,

shoulder-slope, tempestuous fold of robe. He opines as he contemplates

the plain, clumsy Arab wives that the fine things we feel and say of

women apply only to the good-looking and the graceful: his memory wanders

off ever and again to the muslin sleeves and bodices and “sweet

chemisettes” in distant England. In hands sensual and vulgar the

allusions might have been coarse, the dilatings unseemly; but the “taste

which is the feminine of genius,” the self-respecting gentleman-like

instinct, innocent at once and playful, keeps the voluptuary out of

sight, teaches, as Imogen taught Iachimo, “the wide difference ‘twixt

amorous and villainous.” Add to all these elements of fascination the

unbroken luxuriance of style; the easy flow of casual epigram or

negligent simile;—Greek holy days not kept holy but “kept stupid”; the

mule who “forgot that his rider was a saint and remembered that he was a

tailor”; the pilgrims “transacting their salvation” at the Holy

Sepulchre; the frightened, wavering guard at Satalieh, not shrinking back

or running away, but “looking as if the pack were being shuffled,” each

man desirous to change places with his neighbour; the white man’s

unresisting hand “passed round like a claret jug” by the hospitable

Arabs; the travellers dripping from a Balkan storm compared to “men

turned back by the Humane Society as being incurably drowned.” Sometimes

he breaks into a canter, as in the first experience of a Moslem city, the

rapturous escape from respectability and civilization; the apostrophe to

the Stamboul sea; the glimpse of the Mysian Olympus; the burial of the

poor dead Greek; the Janus view of Orient and Occident from the Lebanon

watershed; the pathetic terror of Bedouins and camels on entering a

walled city; until, once more in the saddle, and winding through the

Taurus defiles, he saddens us by a first discordant note, the note of

sorrow that the entrancing tale is at an end.

Old times return to me as I handle the familiar pages. To the schoolboy

six and fifty years ago arrives from home a birthday gift, the bright

green volume, with its showy paintings of the impaled robbers and the

Jordan passage; its bulky Tatar, towering high above his scraggy steed,

impressed in shining gold upon its cover. Read, borrowed, handed round,

it is devoured and discussed with fifth form critical presumption, the

adventurous audacity arresting, the literary charm not analyzed but felt,

the vivid personality of the old Etonian winged with public school

freemasonry. Scarcely in the acquired insight of all the intervening

years could those who enjoyed it then more keenly appreciate it to-day.

Transcendent gift of genius! to gladden equally with selfsame words the

reluctant inexperience of boyhood and the fastidious judgment of

maturity. Delightful self-accountant reverence of author-craft! which

wields full knowledge of a shaddock-tainted world, yet presents no

licence to the prurient lad, reveals no trail to the suspicious moralist.

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