A crown of shining jewels is the Titian room, with the Christ, the

Cardinal Pallavicini, the Danaë, the Venus, Magdalene, and the Duchess

of Urbino. It is a small cabinet, scarcely measuring five square metres,

in which is gathered more shining beauty than in many an entire museum.

Prominent, however, is the fair daughter of Parma, forerunner of the

"Mona Vanna," as Venus dressed, or rather undressed, naked, in a velvet

cloak that kindly fulfils its duty only from the hips downward. The

goddess gazes at herself in a mirror held by a cupid, while another

chubby little fellow is trying to place a crown on her head. She

deserves it, this prize of beauty. There radiates from her eyes, her

mouth, her shoulders, arms, and hands a splendor such as even this

prince but seldom gave to his creations. The curves of the breast, only

half covered by the left hand, the navel, and the hips are as soft as if

painted with a caressing brush. The heavy velvet cloak intensifies even

the remarkable brightness of the body. The Danaë, languidly outstretched

on the cushions of her luxurious couch, shuddering under the golden

harvest that falls into her lap, is much superior to her rivals in

Naples and Vienna. It is the only original that does not disappoint the

expectations created by the widely distributed reproductions, for it

also is perfectly preserved. The line of the back from the shoulder to

the bent knee of the resting young body is of a unique softness; the

transition from the thigh to hip is like velvet in the softness of the

body; the feet and toes are of classic beauty. The Magdalene again is

all feeling. The tears flowing from her eyes, reddened by sorrow, are as

real as her contrition; the heavy braids, pressed with the right hand to

the full bosom, enable us to understand her sins; but the penitential

garment and the desert, where we find her alone with a human skull,

compel us to believe in her repentance. The artist's model was, as in

the similar work in Florence, his daughter Lavinia.

The school of Leonardo da Vinci is not as well represented; but mention

should be made here of "St. Catherine of Luini," if only for the sake of

the saint herself, that is fashioned after the same model as "St. Anne,"

by Leonardo. Somewhat better represented is the Venetian school with a

few Tintorettos and Paolo Veroneses. Of the later Italians, we find

especially of note, "Mary in the Sewing-School," "St. Joseph with the

Christ-Child," and "Cleopatra," by Guido Reni.

But the pride of the collection is the Rembrandt gallery. The so-called

"Mother of Rembrandt" is somewhat inferior to the incomparable Vienna

painting. But, on the other hand, there are among the thirty-nine

authentic works of the master such gems as the "Descent from the Cross,"

with its singular lights and shadows, and "David and Absalom," with

astonishing boldness of sketching and wonderful softness of coloring.

But far beyond the technique we are struck in this picture by the almost

tragic power of expression. It is the moment of conciliation between

father and son. How the young prince with luxurious hair hides his

trembling hand on his father's breast; how the father, who very

strangely has the features of the master himself, draws to his breast

the newly found son, and breathes to Jehovah a prayer for blessing. It

is treated with such overpowering mastery as dwells only in the greatest

scenes of fatherly passion in all literature and art. The second

treatment of the same theme, "The Prodigal Son," is transplanted from

the princely to the common. The returning son is not a prince; the

father is not a be-turbaned sultan; but the intensity of the embrace is

the same; the same thrill comes to us out of this as out of the

brilliant "Absalom" picture, the two songs of the forgiving father's

love. The counterpart of these two is the painting of the great father's

sorrow that seizes the old Jacob when his sons bring to him the bloody

garment of his beloved Joseph. The terror and amazement of the

patriarch, distinctly marked in the hands of the sage uplifted as if

warding off a blow, are strongly impressed on the mind of the beholder.

The famous "Sacrifice of Isaac" is to me of slighter value than the

preceding, notwithstanding all the dramatic force of the moment

depicted. It is really too difficult for us to look into the soul of an

old fanatic who is ready to slay his own son at the command of God; yet

the foreshortening of the recumbent Isaac, and the angel sweeping down

on him like a tempest, to seize just at the right moment the hand of the

old man, are brought out again with really wanton mastery. The so-called

Danaë is not to every one's taste, its universal fame notwithstanding.

Bode takes it as Sarah, the daughter of Raguel, awaiting her betrothed.

Its meaning might well be a subject of discussion. The old woman who

draws back the heavy drapery over the couch, with the honest

match-maker's joy on her face and the purse in her hand, indicates a

mythological incident and not the legitimate joys of Sarah. On the other

hand, there is lacking here the indispensable golden shower by which the

Danaë pictures are really characterized. Besides, the profile of the

joyously surprised naked dame is not all antique. I take the liberty

humbly to suggest that the young woman with the rather mature body is,

to judge by the ornaments on her arms and in her hair, as well as by the

attributes of her luxurious bed and the unceremoniousness with which she

allows the light to play on her naked body through the open portières

without making use of the cover lying near by, to be considered a

professional beauty, who is receiving with more than open arms some very

welcome and generous guest. When once freed from the not exactly

pleasing impression which the fidgety impatience produces on the none

too pretty face, we cannot but admire the play of light on the nude

body. Nothing is flattered in this painting, and that makes more

striking the indelible impression of the shimmering light in all the

depressions and curves of the not especially attractive figure.

It would be much beyond the limits of the present sketch to mention even

by name the works of the first rank in the Rembrandt gallery. Suffice it

to state that there are among them a so-called Sobieski, the portrait of

the calligrapher Coppenol, almost breathing before one's eyes, the

"Parable of the Workmen in the Vineyard," "Abraham's Entertainment of

the Angels," a "Holy Family" of such loveliness as can scarcely be

accredited to the forceful realist, the "Workshop of Joseph," the

"Incredulity of St. Thomas," full of restless movement, a splendid

heroic "Pallas," portraits of men and women, all of them works of the

first rank, gems in the art of all time. To say anything of the master

himself is, thank Heaven, unnecessary. He has thus far escaped untouched

from the constant revolution of values, the propelling force of which is

usually unknown to its satellites. Of him alone can it be said, that

even an approximate conception of the range of his mastery is

impossible without familiarity with his paintings in the Hermitage.

Rubens, too, is represented here in all his astonishing versatility. I

do not know what value is placed nowadays on this omniscience. Yet even

the termagant tongue of impotency must become dumb before this splendid

collection. Mythological and Biblical themes, portraits and landscapes,

are almost throughout of equal perfection and beauty. His exuberant

fancy is nowhere revealed to better advantage than in the fascinating

sketches in which the Hermitage is so rich. They must be termed

veritable orgies of the draughtsman and the colorist, and bear to a

certain extent the imprint of perennial genius and happy inspiration,

which the painting, often completed by his pupils, cannot quite show.

But where the master's own hand has worked it has given life to the

imperishable. If a prize were to be awarded to any one of the

forty-seven masterpieces it would surely belong to the portrait of

Helene Fourment, on which the artist worked with undivided love. The

roguish beauty is painted life-size. She is standing in a

flower-bedecked meadow, and in the background heavy clouds pass over the

landscape. But they serve only to bring out in greater relief the

delicate lace collar around the bare neck of the woman in a low-necked

gown. She has on her blond, curly head a black, soft, Rembrandt hat,

ornamented with feathers, and adorned with a violet-blue ribbon. Her

heavy, black satin dress with the airy white lace sleeves shows the

still youthful, slender figure in a swaying, graceful pose. The delicate

hands are crossed over the waist. The right is holding, fanlike and with

refined ease, a long, white heron's feather. The dress and ornaments,

the ear-rings and the bejewelled brooch and chain, are treated with such

care as was seldom shown by the busy master. The main charm of the

painting lies, however, in the roguish, spirited face with the large,

clever eyes and the smiling little mouth. The neck and bosom show,

however, that the name Helene is not inappropriate.

Of the mythological pictures the "Drunken Silence," variations on which

in the Munich Pinakothek are well enough known to make a more detailed

description superfluous, is to my taste the most wonderful. But the St.

Petersburg original is, if possible, even richer in its coloring, and

the grotesque humor of the fine company is altogether irresistible. We

also find an excellent variation in "The Pert Lover's Happy Moments,"

the brown shepherd attacking a young woman with the features of Helene

Fourment. The liberation of Andromeda by the victorious Perseus is a

work with all conceivable merits. The dead monster that had guarded the

brilliantly beautiful maid lies outstretched with gaping jaws; the

white-winged steed that had carried the victor is stamping the ground,

but easily held in check by a little cupid. The victor, still in his

glittering armor, with the gorgon shield in his left hand approaches

the fair maid and softly touches her. Another little cupid has removed

his helmet so that the emerging Fame may place the wreath on his locks.

But the youth sees only the glorious beauty at whose draperies three or

four little rogues are busily tugging to pull away from the white body

even the last vestige of covering. Of the splendid composition, "Venus

and Adonis," only the wonderful heads were drawn by the master; the rest

was done in his studio, but it is quite respectable.

Of the religious works, the "Descent from the Cross" is akin to the

famous painting in the Dome of Antwerp. The large painting, "Christ

Visiting Simon the Pharisee," was completed with the aid of his pupils.

The figures of Christ and of Magdalene, who is drying the feet of the

Saviour with her hair, were drawn by the master himself. The head of the

penitent is particularly striking. It has something leonine in it, and

the fervor with which she seizes the foot and draws it to herself has

also something of the passion that may have led to her sin.

Of Van Dyck, the cleverest and most prominent of Rubens's pupils, who

aspired to aristocratic refinement--perhaps only to free himself from

the overpowering influence of the robust genius of his teacher, perhaps

also because of his inherently more tenacious nature--the Hermitage

possesses the largest and most valuable collection. The "Holy Family" is

still influenced by Rubens, although it is somewhat softer. It is a

charming composition, full of peace and cheerfulness. Mary is sitting

under a shady tree holding the Christ-Child, who is standing on her lap

so that he may bend over to look at the dancing ring of little angels.

St. Joseph is comfortably seated in the background. The play of the

angels is unmistakably conceived after Rubens's festoon, and yet

possesses great beauty of its own. In its color effects the picture is

among the best. The artist is seen in complete self-dependence in the

numerous portraits of his English period as well as in the cabinet piece

of "The Snyder Family." The English impress us especially by the

expression of self-conscious gentility, aristocratic exclusiveness,

peculiar to themselves as well as to the master. We cannot escape the

charm of these somewhat decadent faces, just as we would enjoy equally a

Beethoven sonata and a Chopin nocturne. Without the exuberant

imagination and the universality of his teacher, Van Dyck possesses,

none the less, a personality of his own, shining with a light of its

own; he is one of the psychologists among the painters.

Another psychologist, though not with delicate hands, but sturdy and

creative, with exuberant genius, is Franz Hals, who is represented here

by four strikingly lifelike portraits. Of him, too, nothing more need be

said, though one may add he is a splendid fellow.

The Dutch miniature painters have here some dainty pieces. Of Van der

Helst's we see his renowned "Introduction of the Bride," a scene from

Dutch patrician life, with somewhat strongly exaggerated respectability

and affluence. The bridegroom's parents, themselves still young, are

seated on a garden terrace clad in their holiday attire, and with gloves

in their hands; the youngest son, stylishly dressed, with a parrot in

his hand, is looking with strained attention towards the bridal couple,

who are ceremoniously ascending the terrace; two greyhounds by the side

of the parents, a lap-dog by the bride's side, take part in the

performance; and loudest of all is the parrot, whom the master is

obliged to call to order by an indignant "Keep still!" Notwithstanding

its size (it has a width of more than three metres), the picture is

painted with a minuteness of detail, from the frills of the mother to

the rustling silk of the bride's dress and the thin foliage of the

poplars in the background of the garden, that would do honor to any

miniature painter. To be sure, our impressionist creed of the present

day does not allow the recognition of such painstaking elegance and

neatness in the execution of details. However, doctrines pass away, but,

thank Heaven, the pictures remain.

The numerous domestic genre pictures, Terborch's famous "Glass of

Lemonade," Jan Steen's "Drunken Woman," held up to derision by her

husband, and the "Visits of the Physician," who is feeling the pulse of

a young woman, evidently embarrassed, while the doctor, with a

significant smile, is exchanging remarks with an old woman, by Metzu,

as well as certain physicians' examinations, by Gerhard Dou, that cannot

further be described, are all notable, not only for the execution of the

velvet and silk fabrics, of the glasses and the interiors, but even more

for the unfailing firmness of characterization in movement and

physiognomy. Certainly these are great painters, and their works are

true cabinet-pieces. Composition must always swing between painstaking

accuracy and bold impressionism. Yet nothing could be more foolish than

the contempt for miniaturists in a period of impressionism and the

contempt for impressionists in a period of painful detail. "In my

Father's house are many mansions."

What shall we say of the works of Ostade, Teniers, Wouwerman, Pottes,

and Ruysdael? The Hermitage not only contains an inexhaustible abundance

of their productions, but includes their very best works. Potter has a

wolf-hound and dairy farm, an animal group of the highest plasticity,

and a quite modern transparency of atmosphere. Tenier has pieces that

show him to have been not only a grotesque humorist but also a great

landscape-painter; and of Ruysdael there are true pearls like the "Sand

Road" and the "Bay Lake."

Rarities, valuable as such not alone to the art-lover, are the "Healing

of the Blind," by Lucas van Leyden, the "Maid under the Apple-Tree," by

Lucas Cranach, a triumphant Madonna, by Quentin Massys--faithful,

honest works which the pious masters laid with devotion on the golden

ground. No sensible person will deride them, for they are still governed

in their conceptions by the carefully obeyed rules of symmetry. In the

_attachement_ there is such depth of characterization, such affection

and warmth, that many a masterpiece must be placed much below them. For

enthusiasm of conception and conscientious execution are, after all, of

deciding moment in every unbiased judgment. But the technique belongs to

the time and not to the individual.

The French of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries conclude the

group. The Germans have never succeeded in placing themselves in a true

relation to this art that is rhetorical and theatrical rather than

really poetical. Yet we shall never be wanting in respect to others,

especially to the masters Poussin and Claude Lorrain. The landscapes of

a heroic-mythological character that represent them in the Hermitage are

monuments of respectable ability.

Of real charm, however, are the piquant genre masters Fragonard and

Watteau, who were held in such deep contempt in the virtuous years of

the Revolution, that no one dared to pay even fifty francs for their

frivolous paintings. They are represented by excellent pieces, as well

as the more serious master Greuze, whose "Death of an Old Man" would do

honor even to our good Knaus. Boucher and Lancret justly deserve our

attention. But Marguerite Gerard, the sister-in law of Fragonard, and

Jean B. Chardin, have quite inconspicuously realized a goodly portion of

the impressionist programme without devoting themselves merely to

problems of light and shade. The "Mother's Happiness" of the former does

full justice to the charming scene and easily solves a problem in

interiors. The same is true of Chardin's "Washerwomen." There is

positively nothing new under the sun. It is only the one or the other

side of the universal knowledge of the great masters acclaimed as an

entirely new discovery. Then follow actions and reactions, and thus the

so-called art history is formed, the rise and fall among a few high

peaks and nothing more.

One day we found a whole row of rooms closed, just those that contained

our favorites of the Rembrandt gallery. What was the cause of it?

Preparations were being made for the Czar's dinner. A great court dinner

is given every Friday in the splendid halls of the Hermitage, and

suitable preparations are made on the previous day. Flowers are placed

everywhere, dishes and silver are brought and kept under special watch.

The Czar's table is placed in the large Italian hall; the courtier's

tables in the adjoining halls. The conservatories and prominent artists

have already petitioned for the abolition of this barbaric custom, for

the vapors from the viands do not in any wise contribute to the

preservation of the costly paintings. But how are exhortations of

warning to reach the Czar's ear? They are derided by the servile

courtiers, and held up to scorn as professional fancies of but little

significance when compared with the wish of princes to dine among the

finest works of art in the world. The consciousness that great works of

art are merely kept in trust by their passing owners, kept for their

true owner, progress-making humanity, has perhaps reached the better

class, but has not been awakened in the autocracy, where even the

conception of humanity has not yet been attained. They own pictures as

they own crown jewels, and consider themselves at liberty to treat them

as they please. But on such a matter the subject must remain silent; and

he does. It is the environment that influences princes, whether for good

or for evil. But the injury to a few paintings, however expensive, is

not the worst that rests on the conscience of the ring in the Czar's

court, just as the Hermitage is not the most objectionable feature of

St. Petersburg. When the Russian empire shall have overcome the phase of

barbarian mistrust for strangers and of oppressive police management,

when it shall have really opened its gates, the Hermitage will become a

true centre of attraction with few equals in the universe. Then will

become common property those wonder works that to-day are still beyond

the reach of common knowledge. In the Russia of to-day a treasury of

culture like the Hermitage is almost an anachronism.

IX

THE CAMORRA--A TALK WITH A RUSSIAN PRINCE

Before I report here a significant conversation I had with a prince, the

friend and former confidant of the Czar, I would make an earnest appeal

to the public opinion of Europe, for which these lines are intended. I

have conversed with many men of the highest rank in Russia; I am

indebted to them for most valuable information about the land of

riddles, yet not a single interview was concluded without my informant

asking me to withhold his name. Only the prince whose views I report

here said to me, "If you need my name to prove the credibility of the

most incredible things I had to tell you, you may use it without

compunction. Possible suffering that may befall me because of this use

of my name is of no consideration where the enlightenment of Europe is

concerned." On mature deliberation I have preferred, however, not to

mention his name here. I thus renounce the weight of a name of European

repute and of unparalleled authority. Notwithstanding this, I still

consider it necessary to ask public opinion of Europe to watch with

redoubled care the fate of the few persons who have been my informants.

It would not be right for me to suppress this report, for I should thus

act in direct opposition to the wishes of the noble-minded prince.

Neither could I disguise him entirely, since there are, after all, but

few persons that could have made to me these disclosures on the

helplessness of even the eminent patriots. And so I must resort to an

appeal to the public opinion of Europe with proper caution. It can

protect the prince. For with all their wickedness the Russian rulers

still fear foreign public opinion. This and this alone has a certain

influence on the Czar. Let it be exerted in behalf of a man of the

greatest heroism, who makes appeal to it out of pure patriotism.

"Does your highness think," I asked, in the interview I am about to

report here, "that the discontent everywhere noticeable in all classes

of society is real and of political significance?"

"We must make distinctions," answered the prince; "of its reality there

is no doubt. But if you ask whether I consider it politically fruitful,

in the same sense that we may gain through this discontent some

necessary change in the present régime, I must answer, unfortunately,

no."

"Is this, then, only the chronic discontent present in western Europe as

well as in Russia, or is it now acute?"

"It is acute. As you have justly observed, the West has its discontented

element also; yet your Western discontent with all work of man may best

be compared with that frame of mind prevalent in our country, even under

a régime that is normal and well-intentioned, lacking only efficiency.

The restlessness that you, as a stranger, have noted here is quite

abnormal, and is due to the decided wickedness, not to say infamy, of

the existing system."

"Then it is stronger than usual?"

"Incomparably stronger. No entertainment however harmless, no scientific

congress, no meeting of any corporation can take place that will not end

in a political demonstration. All the prisons are filled with most

worthy people, deportations and banishments increase, yet other men and

women press onward to martyrdom."

"I admire this spirit of sacrifice in your intelligent classes."

"That is the difference between to-day and a few years ago. Ten years

ago our public opinion was weakened, resigned, crushed by the heavy hand

of Alexander III. and the serpent wiles of Pobydonostzev. With the

accession to the throne of the present Czar new hopes were awakened; but

now, thanks to the executioners Sipyagin and Plehve, disappointment and

exasperation have grown to such a vast extent that expression of them

can no longer be repressed, and thousands risk life and liberty unable

longer to bear this condition of grinding inward revolt."

"I witnessed the funeral of Mikhailovski. I must say that my ear

detected revolutionary tones, and such a procession of five or six

thousand men and women from among the highest classes, surrounded by

Cossacks, among a listening police, singing songs, making fiery,

freedom-breathing speeches, impressed me of all things as a foreboding

of revolution.

The Land of Riddles (Russia of To-day) · 第 4 / 18 段