Finding, after a short stay, that the ground was deserted both by
ships and whales, we pursued our course to the southward, intending to
double Cape Leuwin, thence to the eastward, and cruise in the Great
Australian Bight. Anticipating heavy weather in those latitudes, our
foretopgallant mast was sent down, and the mizzen topmast housed; and
no sooner were we thus far prepared than we caught a heavy gale that
exceeded in violence anything of the kind we had experienced during
the preceding part of the voyage. It lasted eight or nine days, and
as there was an ugly sea running, the ship was almost continually
drenched the whole extent of her decks. One night whilst lying-to in
the gale, when its violence was at its height, a heavy sea broke over
the vessel, carrying away part of the starboard bulwarks, and filling
the bow boat on the larboard side. The davits of the boat were crushed
by the weight of the water, and the boat broke down amidships. The
decks were deluged, and it was necessary to knock out a part of the lee
bulwarks to allow the water to escape. The third officer, who headed
the watch, called the first mate, who, on coming on deck, hurriedly
ran over the members of the watch, when missing one, whose look-out he
heard it was, and supposing him to have been on the forecastle at the
time the sea was shipped, he gave him up for lost. To ascertain, he
cried aloud his name at the top of his voice, but the gale prevented it
from being heard a short distance from the speaker. He then despatched
a person into each top, who sang out for him without result. After
all had decided that he was overboard, without hope of relief, he was
found snugly ensconced in the starboard boat, totally unaware of the
apprehensions entertained for his safety.
On the 6th and 7th of August we fell in with the barques Aladdin
and Lady Emma, and the brig Jane, all of Hobartown, carrying the
English flag. These were the first whalers we had seen carrying other
than our own glorious banner. We gammoned them, and found them but
indifferent craft--their rigging poor, and scarce any discipline
existing aboard of them; their slouching arrangements contrasting
unfavorably with our own neat and tidy appearance. Their crews are
composed principally of convicts who have served out their terms of
sentence, and ticket-of-relief men: with such material it is scarcely
possible to form a good crew. Their officers and captains were, in many
cases, from the same class of society; and on board one of the barques
the master was so ignorant as to be compelled to carry a navigator,
who directed all the movements of the ship, except when they were
whaling. A few Yankees were amongst them--in every case deserters from
American whalers. The residue of their crews contained representatives
from all parts of the world--black, yellow and brown; Portuguese, New
Zealanders, Kanackas from all of the South Sea Islands, and Negroes.
Aboard some of these ships the forecastle is partitioned into two
apartments, in one of which the blacks, and in the other the whites
reside--neither party encroaching on the other. These ships usually
fit out for fifteen months, but generally return within the year;
their forecastles look desolate, from the fact that none of the crew
bring chests to sea with them; their stock of clothes consisting, in
many instances, only of the suit they wear upon their backs. Their
bedding, too, from lack of attention to their outfit, is very scant,
and is therefore insufficient in such cool weather as prevails in
the Bight at this season of the year. They were disposed to grumble,
and exceeded the usual modicum of growling accorded to the sailor.
They envied us our positions, and were very desirous of effecting an
exchange; some went so far as to ask to be concealed when their boat
left our ship. They represented that their ships were leaky, and the
officers ignorant; and inveighed in unmeasured terms against their
rations, describing them as scant and unwholesome. These must not be
considered as fair specimens of the Hobartown shipping, as afterward
we saw vessels in which, although their management could not compare
with ours, their crews were at least contented, and their vessels and
rigging presented a much better appearance to a seaman’s eye.
On board these ships grog is allowed; by some, daily; others, semi-and
tri-weekly; and when we informed them that we sailed on the total
abstinence principle, they expressed much astonishment at the fact, and
wondered how we got along without liquor.
Several New Zealanders in the respective crews of these vessels
attracted my attention, from the tattooing on their bodies. The figures
on the face and breast were not near so disgusting, as from previous
description I had imagined them to be.
Quite a pleasant incident occurred on board our vessel, during this
evening. One of the crew of the brig Jane came into our forecastle,
and inquired whether there were any natives of Patterson, New Jersey,
present. Two of our crew, belonging to that city, presented themselves;
and, after some inquiries, one of them proved to be the play- and
school-mate of the stranger. They had not met since their childhood,
and their meeting now caused much feeling on each side. Both had
followed the sea for years, and been self-exiled as it were from their
native land. When a stripling, the one aboard of us had joined the
volunteers in General Scott’s army, then in Mexico. After participating
in the struggle until peace was declared, he returned to the United
States, spent his pay, and then shipped aboard a whaler bound to the
Arctic ocean. Having been forty months at sea, he came back, and again
spent his earnings just as foolishly as he had done before; and, being
compelled by necessity to return to the ocean for support, he shipped
aboard a merchant vessel bound for Liverpool. He next made various
voyages to different parts of Europe and the West Indies, experiencing
perilous vicissitudes; when, finally, he embarked on board our old
craft. His schoolmate had joined a New Bedford whaler; which, after
being a year from home, touched at a port on the eastern coast of
New Zealand, where he deserted, and engaged for a time in the lumber
trade; in which, he told me, he would have done well, if he had left
liquor alone. From this he proceeded to trade with the natives, and
was finally adopted by them; but their mode of life being distasteful
to him, he engaged in the coasting-trade, was cast away, and carried
into Hobartown, where he at length joined the brig Jane. Both these men
possessed talents above mediocrity. They were good seamen, and their
qualifications would have rendered them good citizens also, had not a
roving, restless spirit of adventure led them to throw away their time
rambling over the world.
These ships pursue the blackfish with almost as much eagerness as they
do the whale, and their manœuverings for this small game often deceived
us. The crews receive a large proportion of the vessels’ earnings;
but they get only forty pounds sterling per ton for their oil, no
matter what price it brings in the market; so that, although the lays
are shorter, the actual remuneration is about equal to ours. The only
advantage they possess over us is in the shortness of the voyage:
during the whole continuance of it, however, they allow no liberty, and
only touch at insignificant ports for vegetables.
On the 22d we sighted sperm whales. Lowering away the waist boat, we
went on to the fish--the boatsteerer darted; but the irons struck the
head, and did not penetrate. The whales started to the windward, and we
saw no more of them--getting nothing but fisherman’s luck for our pains.
On the 25th we were informed of the probable loss of the ship Twilight,
of New Bedford: it being supposed that she had foundered at sea. The
report was originated by the captain of the barque Draco. It appears
that the two vessels sailed from King George’s Sound in company; and,
experiencing an exceedingly heavy gale, they agreed to lie by each
other during the night, either party, if desirous of running before
the gale, agreeing to fire a rocket or show a light. No such signal
was seen from the Draco; and next morning, on the Twilight’s not being
discernible, the conclusion was arrived at that she was lost. We were
agreeably surprised, a few weeks after, by a sight of the missing ship.
Her captain had before been informed of the report; and, on our running
across his stern, to our captain’s hail he replied, that his ship was
the Nonsuch of New Bedford.
About this time, I was much amused by an original method, which our
captain instituted, to stop pugilistic encounters between the boys.
On the evening previous, a Portuguese boy and a New Bedford youngster
engaged in a game of fisticuffs, resulting in black eyes and skinned
noses to both the participants. The captain, on making inquiry the
next morning, discovered enough to justify him in punishing them. For
this purpose he tied their left hands firmly together, and placed
reef-points in their right hands. (These points are manilla ropes,
three feet long, whipped at both ends, and about three-fourths of an
inch in diameter--a formidable weapon in a strong hand.) Then, after
getting them in position, he instructed them to lay their points on
each other’s backs. The Bedford boy refusing to do this, the captain
took the point in his own hand, and gave him a cut, which operated
like fire amidst dry wood. At it they went; and, both being game, they
continued the infliction of the points for half an hour, when they were
stopped by the old man. One of them was then sent to sit astride the
extreme end of the flying jib-boom, and the other to occupy a similar
position on the spanker-boom. The other ships’ officers said, merrily,
that old Sherman was trimming ship to beat them.
On the same day, by the ship Alexander, belonging to the same owners
as our own barque, I received letters from home; and although nine
months old, they were heartily welcome. None but the wanderer from
home and friends knows, or can imagine, the joy and comfort imparted
by good news from home. Such events are the oases in our desert.
Newspapers were also sent to me; and I read them completely through,
advertisements and all, with a degree of attention I had never before
bestowed on a printed sheet. Others were not so fortunate as myself,
and gave vent to their disappointment in bitter terms.
The Alexander had been whaling in higher latitudes than we were--she
having visited Desolation and New Zealand. Her present captain came
out as first officer; for, the original captain being taken sick, had
returned to the United States from one of the Cape De Verde Islands,
and his mate succeeded him in command. Her crew described their first
captain as having been a trump; relating, with great glee, that on the
cook’s serving them up beans badly cooked, they complained to him; and,
discovering their complaint to be well founded, he forced the cook
to eat the whole mess--giving him nothing else to eat until he had
completed the task. Ever afterwards, they said, their victuals were
nicely prepared. Off the western coast of New Zealand they had seen
sperm whales more than sixty times; but, for some reason or other, they
had not been very successful in capturing them--having taken but five
hundred barrels of oil from the time they left home. This ship then
purposed returning, and was anxious for us to accompany her.
Whilst we were in the Bight, the barque Australasian Packet captured
a sperm whale. The weather was boisterous, and they did not succeed
in getting him alongside until after dark. The boat that was running
the line to the ship was struck by the vessel, and stoven: two of her
crew clung to the boat, and escaped; the others were drowned. The whale
was allowed to go adrift, and was picked up on the following day by
the ship Hunter, of New Bedford. By this sad disaster the crew of the
Packet were intimidated, and refused to do any more whaling; therefore
the captain was forced to return with her to Hobartown.
On the 10th of October we gammoned the barque Rodman, of New Bedford,
twelve months out, with twelve hundred barrels of oil. She was by far
the most successful ship we encountered. Much of her oil was taken off
Desolation; and her crew, like that of the Stephania, represented that
whaling-ground as a perfect purgatory. They said that the weather was
so intensely cold, that it was necessary to envelop the person in three
or four thicknesses of warm woolen clothing when going in the boats.
This practice cost one of their crew his life; for the boat in which he
was being stoven, from the heaviness of his clothing when saturated he
was unable to swim, though he knew how, and he perished--his boatmates
having as much as they could do to save themselves. They had also been
into Shark’s Bay, in pursuit of humpbacks, and lost an anchor there;
the captain had also there rigged a bomb-gun, so as to discharge a
harpoon, but on putting it into operation shattered his hand.
Doing nothing in the Bight, and being assured of the scarcity of sperm
whales on its grounds, we took our departure for the westward. We had
counted largely on this season’s operations--forgetting the old maxim
of not reckoning chickens before they are hatched. We saw sperm whales
but once during the season, and then failed to make a capture. We were,
without palliation, skunked: our whole additions being a porpoise and
cowfish. The latter fish is of the same species as the porpoise, only
differing from it in size, it being considerably larger; its flesh is
coarser and not so good eating.
During our cruise we were continually in sight of some one or more
islands of the Récherché Archipelago. These islands are uninhabited and
almost barren--the only green appearance being a stunted brushwood.
Around these islands the seal is found in great numbers, and small
craft resort to them for the purpose of capturing these sea-dogs.
Several of the ships lowered their boats, which went in, and stated
that they caught numbers of fine fish.
Steering to the westward we sighted Bald Island and Baldhead, and
cruised in their neighborhood for several weeks, seeing sperm whales
once, but, after a hard day’s chase, giving up the pursuit as futile.
One Sunday, at daybreak, the order was passed forward to loose the
flying-jib. One of the hands laying out on the boom for the purpose,
the foot rope parted, and he was precipitated into the sea. We had had
blustering weather for a few days previous, and a heavy swell was on
at the time of the catastrophe. No one saw him fall; but one of the
crew, imagining, as he thought, that he heard a gurgling sound in the
water, looked over the bow, and saw at a glance what had happened. The
alarm being instantly given, the cry of “Man overboard,” resounded
throughout the ship; and, without waiting to dress, the whole crew,
fore and aft, made their appearance on deck. In a moment the wheel
was put hard down, and the mainyard hauled aback. The first officer
sprang into the larboard boat, in his nightdress, and cut the gripes;
the tackles were let go by the run, and the moment she touched the
water she was manned by a crew, who, with strong arms and brave hearts,
lustily pulled for their hapless companion. Fortunately, he was a
strong swimmer, and, although the weather was cold and he enveloped
in the heaviest of sea clothing, with his coat on, also, he found but
little difficulty in keeping afloat. In a short time the fourth mate,
who was in the head of the boat, grasped him and hauled him aboard. The
word was instantly given that he was saved. No cheers followed this
agreeable announcement; but a deep-drawn sigh of satisfaction expressed
the relief such intelligence afforded. In eight minutes from the time
the order was given to loose the sail, we had him safe and snug aboard
the ship. He was so weak as to be unable to clamber from the boat up
the side. On stepping from the rail to the deck, he was welcomed as
one restored from the dead, and, after many assurances that he was all
right, except a slight weakness, the excitement began to subside. None
but those who have experienced it, can imagine the effect produced by
the cry of “Man overboard,” on every hearer; and to us, who had lived
for more than a year together, seeing and conversing with each other
every hour in the day, all depending on the same fabric for shelter
against the storm and wave, it came with a ten-fold force--as none knew
whose turn it next might be. Nothing serious resulted from the ducking;
a slight cold, that soon yielded to simple treatment, being the only
affection.
On the 20th we stood in with a fair wind, passed Baldhead, entered
Frenchman’s Bay, and came to anchor at 7 o’clock in the evening; having
taken a pilot when opposite to Baldhead. A few hours after the James
Allen made her appearance. We found at anchor the barque Wavelett, of
New Bedford. The ensuing morning all three ships weighed their anchors
and passed through a narrow passage which connects the bay with the
sound. The Wavelett and our barque came to anchor in good shape, but
the James Allen, in trying to imitate us, ran aground. After a few
hours she floated clear. At anchor in King George’s Sound, we found
an old hulk, with only her lower masts standing, was moored stem and
stern, and used for the reception of coals for the steamships that
every month touch there. This harbor is beautiful and safe, it being
protected from almost all winds. About a mile from where we lay is
the town of Albany, a settlement containing about one hundred houses,
and five hundred inhabitants. The tenements are principally of frame,
with thatched roofs. Their occupants are of the same class as those of
Vasse. At times, it is said, this place presents quite a business-like
appearance; but when we visited it, everything like trade seemed
stagnant. This was represented to be caused by the non-arrival of the
steamers; the government having withdrawn them to use as transports for
troops to the Crimea.
For the first three or four days we were visited by heavy rain squalls,
which preventing much work being executed, we whiled away the time,
between squalls, in angling--the water being alive with fish--salmon,
herring, mackarel, and whitings, rewarding the fisherman’s toil.
We had little trouble here to procure water--a large tank being walled
in, from which we procured an abundant supply. The only difficulty we
experienced was from the extreme coldness of the water while rafting it.
On the 27th our liberty commenced. On going ashore and walking up the
beach, we found, on passing the custom-house, a notice, signed by the
captains of the different ships in the harbor, notifying all persons,
that in the event of trusting any of their men, it would be on their
own responsibility, as no debts of our contracting would be paid by
the said captains. This was unusual to us, as we had never before been
posted in port; but it may have been necessary, as the sailor, when
ashore, thinks of nothing but present enjoyment. When he is half seas
over, he will borrow money, or buy anything on credit from persons
foolish or roguish enough to trust him, and when he gets at sea, will
tell with great satisfaction how nicely he bilked the landlubbers; but
in ninety-nine cases out of the hundred the landsman has the best of
the bargain, seldom letting Jack Tar weather him.
The first move of our fellows was to take possession of an English
bar-room, strike up Yankee Doodle, and break down in a genuine
fore-and-after. There are five of these public houses in this
settlement; one, however, was chiefly patronized by the ships’ crews,
from the fact of a pretty bar-maid presiding over the spirits; and,
as she was the only creditable-looking specimen of marriageable
femininity in the place, she was surrounded by admirers. She met all
with a cheerful smile, and was ever pleasant to both officers and
sailors, always granting them a kiss of her fair cheek, when ready to
sail; while her character, from a certain dignity about the girl, was
unimpeachable.
Of course, the facilities for obtaining liquor being so abundant,
there was the usual quantity of drinking; but, without prejudice, I
feel justified in saying, that, of the three crews, ours conducted
themselves best, and at sun-down returned in a creditable manner. Old
Jack, however, got astray, and was not to be found at night when the
boat came off. The next day one of the crew found him, with a bottle of
grog, close by a small dam on the outskirts of the town. After being
thoroughly awakened by a hearty shaking he took up his line of march,
which, by the way, was a very crooked one, for the beach, singing, with
great energy--
“The sailor loves his bottle, O!”
One morning, on going ashore, we found that the Wavelett’s crew were
not on liberty. News soon transpired that there had been trouble
aboard of her, and that part of her crew were in irons. Their captain
left the town and went aboard, and found that they refused to do duty
unless liberty was allowed to them. After some quibbling he consented,
and they came ashore. Five of her men deserted, three of them getting
clear; but the other two were traced by the natives, and apprehended by
the police. One also was caught who bolted from the Allen.
Whilst in this port we had very little, in fact, scarce any, fresh
meat. The reason assigned was its scarcity; but the Wavelett’s crew
were all the time well supplied, and I cannot reconcile the two
circumstances. _We_ certainly needed it, having been from home fifteen
months, and having had it in but one port. Few potatoes either were to
be had here, and in lieu of them we carried to sea ruta baga turnips,
which were mostly eaten by the pigs. To make amends for the absence of
fresh meat, a supply of fish was contracted for with an American--a
deserter from a whaler, years since, who has married and squatted down
here, where he sustains himself by fishing and boating. These fish,
in appearance and taste were very much like those known as porgies at
home; they were well enough occasionally, but a continual fish diet,
than which I know of nothing more tiresome, soon clogged our appetites,
and the supply, in consequence, far exceeded the demand. I well
remember our second mate’s remark on this occasion--that it would take
two men and a boy to haul off his shirt, as he had eaten so many fish
that the bones stuck through his skin.
From this time up to November the 5th, we were windbound in this dull
place--the entrance being so narrow that it is impossible to gain
egress without a fair wind. On the 3d, the hermaphrodite brig Louisa
came in from Adelaide. During these days of inaction, to kill time,
some would fish; others go ashore in search of clams, or raking for
oysters; some gunning, some sailing, and others in search of shells;
the latter generally returning wearied, and with but few of the
bivalves.
On the morning of November the 5th, Norman Kinwood, a native of
Manchester, New Hampshire, was discharged at his own request, from
inability to do duty; he having been sick and off duty almost the whole
time since we left home, with chronic rheumatism--at times confined
to his berth for weeks together. All were sorry to part with him, but
thought it better for him to be ashore when unwell, than to be confined
to the narrow limits of a forecastle. For a few days he was much
missed, although a very reserved man; still, it was one familiar face
gone, and we felt that our little circle had been broken in upon. We
afterwards learned that he remained at Albany several months, and then
took passage in a schooner for Melbourne, since which nothing has been
heard from him. We shipped a new man in his place, and at 9¹⁄₂ o’clock
on November the 5th, took the pilot aboard, hove up our anchors, and in
a heavy squall stood out of the sound, coming to anchor in Frenchman’s
Bay. The Allen and Wavelett soon after followed. At 5 o’clock we hove
up, a second time were under weigh, and with a stiff breeze stood out
to sea, steering to the southward until we were in latitude 40°, where
we expected to see plenty of right whales: and we did see them, too,
and that was all the good they done us, as we would sight them from the
ship, but the moment a boat was lowered they absquatulated in as secret
and effectual a manner as a defaulting bank clerk. Finding we could
do nothing with these shy gentlemen, we steered north-west for Cape
Leuwin, hoping to see sperm whales, to recompense us for six months’
time thrown away. On the passage we gammoned with the barque Lady
Macintosh, of London. She last sailed from Adelaide, having carried
railroad iron to that port for the purpose of constructing a railway
to Melbourne, which, when finished, will be the first work of the kind
on the island. She was then bound to the East Indies for a cargo of
teak-wood. It is not usual for merchant ships to lose time in visiting;
but in this case both ships were becalmed within a few miles of each
other, and she setting her signal our captain went aboard.
From the date of leaving King George’s Sound, until the 11th of
January, 1857, little transpired worthy of record, except the capture
of half-a-dozen blackfish, and the usual amount of gammoning with
other whaleships--some of which had done better, others worse, than
ourselves. During the whole of this time we could not catch a glimpse
of a sperm whale; and whilst ships in our immediate neighborhood could
see and capture them, we were doing nothing. We double-manned our
mastheads, made more sail, and passed over a greater space every day
than heretofore, but all to no purpose; the whales were still beyond
our vision. Meantime our crew began to get discouraged, almost a year
having elapsed since we had taken any oil, and, consequently, since a
single penny had been earned by any of us. Some took it very easily,
but they were those to whom whaling was distasteful; others chafed with
impatience; but, finally, all of us settled down into the belief that
we had about all the oil we should get this voyage. The captain kept
his spirits up, and was continually foretelling better luck. Our time,
during this interval, was got rid of in various ways. In warm weather,
the watches on deck, as well as those below, were for the most part
slept away; in cold weather, walking fore and aft the deck, with hands
thrust deep into breeches pockets, seemed the only occupation any of
us had. There was no work to be done, in fact, but to break out our
provender from the ship’s hold and consume it.
On the 11th, at 4 o’clock in the afternoon, we squared our yards and
steered for the land. At 9¹⁄₂ the following morning we let go our
anchor in Bunbury Bay, opposite to, and about a mile distant from, the
town of Bunbury. This little town is the neatest that I have seen on
the coast; and, although the class of population, to a great extent,
is similar to that in Vasse and the Sound, still there are many reside
in it who are worthy, respected, hospitable, and intelligent. Ours was
the first ship that had been in the harbor for years, and our captain
received the title of “the opener of the port.” At one time it was a
place of great resort for American whale-ships, but several having,
by some means, been driven ashore and lost, it became unpopular, and
was superseded by Vasse. The high price of provisions and generally
disobliging character of the inhabitants in the latter place, induced
our captain to visit Bunbury as an experiment, which proved successful
in the highest degree. We were eagerly welcomed on going ashore, and
cordially invited into the settlers’ houses. The schools were allowed
a holiday, that the children might visit the ship. These youngsters,
on seeing us, from the shore, engaged aloft (all the ship’s crew being
at work in the rigging), tarring down, &c., deemed us monkeys, and
could not be convinced to the contrary until they came aboard and
had a survey of us. This was rather disparaging to some thirty young
men, belonging to the smartest nation in the world, to be compared to
brutes; but our occupation originated the impression, and one of the
little fellows observed, on coming aboard, “If they aint monkeys, they
climb about just like them;” and being convinced that he had gained a
point, strutted off in triumph.
The country, hereabouts, presents a fertile appearance, contrasting
favorably with the sandy soil in other portions of the colony that
we have visited. Provisions were very plentiful here, too, and we
were enabled to procure a sufficiency of excellent onions, potatoes,
cabbages, and turnips. Part of the onions and cabbages were pickled
and stowed away until our fresh supply should be exhausted. Excellent
fruit was to be had ashore, comprising apples, peaches, melons, and
pears; some of the peaches were delicious, and could be purchased at a
moderate price.
Many of the natives here presented a better appearance than any I had
before seen, being clothed with European garments, and clean, they lost
half of their hideousness, and appeared immeasurably superior to their
brethren of the bush, with whom, however, they seemed to be on terms
of the utmost equality. I was informed by a resident, that several of
the females had been transformed into excellent house-servants; but
that they could not depend on retaining them, from their unconquerable
predilection for a bush life.
On the outskirts of the town is the barrack, where a company of
infantry is stationed, to whom, in a measure, the general good order
prevailing is due--their presence intimidating peace-breakers. These
red-coat gentry, stationed in a town in time of peace, and enforcing
the strictest discipline, appear rather strange to an American; but the
state of society renders them a necessary evil, and companies of them
are distributed throughout these colonies.
Within a circuit of a few miles there are a number of excellent farms,
on which neat buildings are erected for dwellings and dairy purposes.
The principal products of these farms are potatoes, onions, cabbages,
and the various garden vegetables, wheat, rye, and oats. Their wheat is
good and sweet, but dark. Their oats, as they acknowledge themselves,
scarcely deserve the name. They informed me that they raised three
crops of potatoes during the year. Indian corn, too, is cultivated, but
not to any extent. These farms are surrounded by the ordinary post and
rail fence, made of the native mahogany--as it never requires renewing
on account of decay. The raspberry-jam, a wood resembling in smell the
berry of that name, and susceptible of a beautiful polish, is found
abundantly in the neighborhood: this is a handsome wood, and when
recently fractured or sawn, the odor is delightful. Vessels arrive
and depart from here at stated intervals, carrying lumber to Adelaide;
they only take the mahogany, which is used for sleepers to the railway
in process of construction there. These crafts carry passengers,
whom, for the passage of about fifteen hundred miles, they charge the
extortionate price of ten pounds a head; but there is no competition,
and, therefore, they have it all their own way. The crafts are small,
mostly rigged as brigs of about one hundred and twenty-five tons
measurement.
As in all other settlements on this coast, the rum-sellers drive a
thriving trade, although here there are not so many of them, there
being but two depots for the sale of spirits in the town. One of them
holds forth in a neat brick building, which, they told me, cost two
thousand pounds sterling to erect. At home the same description of
building would have cost about one hundred pounds, or five hundred
dollars. As everybody here drinks, they think it hospitable to greet
the stranger with “What will you take?” and consequently our fellows,
many of whom never rejected such offers, were alive for fun--and I will
guarantee that the denizens of Bunbury will, for many a day, remember
the skylarking of the Pacific’s crew. One, after getting pretty well
elevated, took our two Portuguese up to the school, and insisted on the
preceptor’s entering their names on his list of pupils.
During my visit ashore I went through the town from beginning to end,
and by invitation entered most of the houses. In the garden of one I
was shown a young kangaroo, leaping and gambolling about in the most
graceful and easy manner. I also saw several collections of birds: the
cockatoo and whistling twenty-eight being the most noteworthy. The
cockatoo varies from the East India variety in the color of its crest,
which is white; and, after some tuition, they talk very fluently, as
I was assured by one who, with great facility asked what my name was.
Not seeing the bird at the time, I turned round to my companion to
answer his inquiry, as I thought, when a repetition of the question
from a different direction soon satisfied me as to its author. On my
hesitating to answer, the bird curtly informed me that he would tell
his mistress. As I did not wish to incur my fair hostess’ displeasure,
she having furnished me with a most excellent repast, I hastened to
satisfy him.
The twenty-eight is a beautiful bird, resembling the parrot. What it
derives its name from I cannot imagine, as there is, whether in a wild
or domestic state, nothing in its note that to my ear resembles the
sound of the words “twenty-eight.” The prevailing color of its plumage
is green, elegantly variegated about the head and tail with yellow,
red, and black feathers. These birds are easily taught to whistle a
tune. Their natural note is pleasing, and somewhat resembling that
of the cuckoo. They can be taught also to talk, and several in our
possession far exceeded in this respect any parrot I ever saw. When
taught they are highly valued by the settlers, and almost every family
has one or more of them. They exist in great numbers in the bush of the
vicinity, and are preferable to the cockatoo, because they are free
from his tricks--he being as mischievous as a monkey, when allowed to
traverse the house.
A river runs from the town up into the interior. On following its
windings, I found it too shallow for craft of the lightest draught.
Thousands of fowls skim over its surface: the shag, the swan, gulls,
and the monster pelican--all gathering their living from its waters. In
the rainy season it becomes a formidable stream, rushing violently over
its bed, and carrying away all loose objects that lie along its course.
In this river, too, I saw the natives spearing fish, an art in which
they displayed considerable skill. Wading in the water, and patiently
watching until the prey swam near them, they would expertly strike
in their spears and transfix it. I saw one of them thus encounter
a shark, piercing him through and through, until he despatched the
monster. During the whole conflict he displayed extreme adroitness and
activity in keeping out of the way of the infuriated creature, when
with gnashing jaws it turned upon its antagonist. Whenever they capture
a shark they eat it.
Small cutters are continually arriving and departing from and for
Freemantle, Vasse, King George’s Sound, and Adelaide. These cutters
are sloop-rigged, and vary in size from ten to twenty-five tons. They
are built of mahogany wood in the colony, and are represented as safe
and convenient crafts; but only the largest of them venture to cross
the Bight to Adelaide, and that, too at the favorable season of the
year. Their freight consists of produce and goods for the various
storekeepers in the settlements.
The people of these colonies generally profess the faith of the Church
of England; and in Vasse, the Sound, and Bunbury, Episcopalian chapels
are erected; but in none of these places do the inhabitants display a
church-going spirit. During the hours of divine service the publicans
close their dens, but always manage to supply their customers with
the ardent on the sly. They consider the closing of their houses very
unjust; and one of them, in inveighing against the tyranny of the
laws, gave this as an instance: He mentioned that the government had
prohibited card-playing, or any other game of chance or pleasure--even
going so far as to forbid bowling-saloons; and that they were led to
pass the act by a quarrel arising from a game of cards played for
pastime at a public house in Vasse, in which one of the players was
killed. Speaking of bowling-saloons, or skittles, as they are called
here, reminds me that we heard, previous to our visit to Vasse, that
there was a fine bowling-alley there. Congratulating ourselves on
this fact, we counted on a game at tenpins as not the least of our
anticipated pleasures; but, lo, and behold! when we visited it, we
found a floor of mahogany boards, some two feet wide and twelve long.
The pins were of the most outlandish shape, and could scarcely be made
to retain an upright position, even when held. The balls were nearer
oval than round, and as rough on their surface as a cocoa-nut with the
hull on. There were only two of these; and when you had discharged
them, you were constrained to walk to the farther end of the alley, and
carry them back for another trial. After vainly endeavoring for a few
minutes to make the balls roll in a straight line, we gave the attempt
up as hopeless, and left the skittle-ground, thoroughly convinced of
its demerits.
The first time we visited Bunbury there were no wells whence ships
could procure water; so we held Geographe Bay in abeyance, knowing that
we would have a hundred barrels to drag through its sandy road. After
a week’s stay we hove short, set our ensign, and were boarded by the
police, who here act as custom-house officials. They searched the ship
fore and aft, above and below, as they thought--although we might have
had a score of the prisoners stowed away, if we had been so disposed:
as it was, we had one forward, stowed in the forepeak, of whom they saw
no trace. We carried him to Vasse, and set him ashore. Their mode of
search was to get into the hatchway, and insert the native spears in
the interstices between the casks. They reviewed the ship’s company,
in order to satisfy themselves no interlopers were there, and then
delivered up the ship’s papers and departed. We then set sail, and,
after twelve hours’ beating against a light headwind, we let go our
anchor off the town of Vasse, where we procured water. Here we had
several quarters of fresh beef--in Bunbury we had one whole sheep.
On the 20th, the ship Twilight came in and informed us that the barque
Mars, with numerous letters for us, was on the eve of making this port.
The next morning she made her appearance, and her stock of letters
had not been over-stated, the majority of our crew, myself amongst
the number, receiving letters that had been written only six months
previous; and, as all of us had good news, and plenty of newspapers,
we were more pleasantly employed than we should have been had we just
captured a large whale.
On the same day our second officer, Mr. E----, left us, and went
ashore; the reason he assigned being his unwillingness to encounter
the cold weather on the coast of New Zealand, whither we were bound.
He was a man of a most amiable disposition, had a superior intellect,
and was thoroughly acquainted with his profession--both as sailor and
whaleman. He had gained the respect and confidence of every man aboard,
and never had had occasion all the time we were together to chide any
of the crew, and as his chest went over the side into the boat, all
felt that we had lost a friend. This was the second withdrawal of
members of our original crew from the ship. Mr. E.’s intention was to
remain ashore until some whaler should arrive in need of an officer;
in which case his well-known ability would easily procure him a berth.
When ready to sail, the captain brought an American aboard who had
been in these colonies for some years, and was slightly related to the
captain’s lady. He was taken into the cabin as fourth mate; the former
fourth officer receiving the position of third mate, and the former
third the second mate’s berth. All being in readiness, we hove up our
ground-tackle, and with a fresh breeze on our quarter we bade adieu to
Vasse.