Soon after our sails were stowed, a canoe from the town came alongside.
In it were two Malays, who had a cargo of green and ripe cocoa-nuts,
bananas, sugar-cane, tamarinds, pine apples, chickens, and cockatoos.
They were desirous of bartering these articles, not for money, but
sperm whale’s teeth, which they term “gee gees,” and use for handles
to their creeses, after having neatly carved and ornamented them. They
have a perfect passion for these teeth, and having at one time exposed
to their view a very handsome one, I was beset and pestered by these
people, ashore and aboard, to sell it. Having no desire to dispose of
it, I at first only laughed at their offers, but when one plucked me
by the sleeve and offered me a dozen chickens for it, and another his
whole stock in trade to become its possessor, I wavered and let it go.
The cocks, of which half a dozen were purchased, displaying
considerable game, two were pitted against each other, and, as quickly
as one was beaten, another was backed against the victor, until they
were tired of fighting, when their heads were cut off, and we supped
upon the belligerents.
The captain went ashore and found that no American or European ship had
been here for several years.
In the evening great numbers of the natives came down and waded
into the water; at first I thought they were bathing, but afterward
discovered that they were engaged in fishing for a diminutive fish,
which I think, from their appearance, must have been sardines. On
the ensuing morning, the captain having learned that we lay in a
bad position, we hove up our anchor and ran a short distance to the
northward, and again came to in the same depth of water. During this
day we were occupied in getting off water, and reeving new lanyards
to our lower rigging; and this laborious work in latitude 8°, was
rather warm. We were visited by many boats from the shore, and at
noon had a comfortable dinner of sweet potatoes, rice, chickens, &c.
On the succeeding day the starboard watch went ashore on liberty,
each member of it provided with half a dozen yards of gaudy-colored,
large-figured calico. We walked about half a mile from the landing,
and came to anchor at the market, where we found a concourse of
men, women, and children, with their wares exposed to view, busily
soliciting purchasers. This market was situated in the open air, near
by a cocoa-nut grove. They had for sale monkeys, parrots, cockatoos,
cooked and uncooked rice, poultry, limes, lemons, oranges, and figs,
besides the fruits before mentioned. These last were to be bought
for a song, and as we had been so long without these luxuries,
they were freely indulged in; but what suited my palate best was
the banana fried in cocoa-nut oil, which an old woman was busily
engaged preparing--plucking the fruit from the tree and cooking it.
Our appearance set these merchants agog, but they were not at all
obtrusive, and waited until we directed our attention to them before
they approached us; then they surrounded us, a dozen at a time asking,
how much this was, all their English; but we were not anxious to part
with our goods before discovering the state of the market. Soon a
man joined us whose complexion presented a queer appearance, being
formed of half a dozen different shades, arranged in spots, differing
in size as in color, from the size of a five cent piece to that of
a silver dollar, and in shade from a light yellow to a deep copper
tint; he was well made, and had the appearance and manners of one
of the better class; he conversed in intelligible sailor English,
mixed with French and Spanish, and evidently considered himself a
great linguist. From his account of himself I suppose that he was the
rajah’s clerk. He seemed anxious for me to describe, on the sand, some
English speaking, as he termed it; and after I had complied with his
request, he, in return, took the stick and drew several characters to
me unintelligible. He stated that his name was Woreka, and, as this was
difficult of remembrance, he was, by common consent, christened John,
and seemed quite proud of his title. He assumed the office of chaperone
to us, and through his instrumentality quite a number disposed of their
calico. I was importuned for some time, by a native, for mine, and
finally agreed to let him have it for four hundred pice. After some
demurrage, he agreed to purchase it, but did not possess sufficient
current funds about him. He desired me, by signs, to accompany him to
his house, where, he said, he had plenty; and on my reiterating the
price, he repeated, “I sabe, I sabe,” with much emphasis. On arriving
at his house he handed the calico to his wife, who was as much pleased
with it as an American child would be with a toy. Her spouse proceeded
up stairs to procure the money, and whilst he was gone I had leisure to
observe the inmates of the room. The wife, a young woman, apparently
about twenty years of age, had the most perfect set of features I ever
beheld, and hair, which, if loosed, would flow almost to the ground,
of the glossiest black; her complexion was about as dark as that of
our Indian squaws; her eyes, black and piercing--lips red as a cherry;
her form full of grace, and straight as an arrow. She reminded me of
the pictures I had seen of oriental princesses; and, certainly, a more
graceful or prettier queen never wielded sceptre. The other occupants
were an old woman and several children. By the time I had finished
my scrutiny mine host returned, and presented me with a quantity of
Chinese coin, which I found fell one hundred pice short of the price
agreed upon. I informed him of his mistake, but as all I received for
answer was “I sabe,” I demanded the restitution of the calico. For
this purpose he advanced to his wife to obtain it, and when she, who
had been watching us closely, discovered my intention of depriving her
of her prize, her pretty features contracted into a malignant frown,
her eyes shone like diamonds, so fierce were their expression, whilst
she stamped her little bare foot indignantly at the affront she deemed
imposed upon her. In consideration of the lady’s disappointment, and
from the fact of my being separated some half a mile from my comrades,
in the midst of a village containing hundreds of Malays, I was on the
point of yielding; but the lady’s rage found vent in words, which,
although I did not understand, from her glances and gestures I knew
were directed at me; and I have no doubt that, if I were able to
translate it, it would rival the Billingsgate vocabulary. I in turn
became warm at finding myself the object of vituperation, even from
such rosy lips; and then reflecting how my story would sound when told
to my shipmates--betraying how I, one of the oldest amongst them, was
overreached by a Malay, I remained firm; and getting possession of my
calico, left the house and the dusky lady--the latter to continue her
vituperations to her heart’s content, now that I was out of ear-shot.
Some who read this may think me foolish in allowing it to nettle me;
but I know of nothing more vexing, even to a patient man, than to be
made the subject of abuse, when he cannot understand his villifier’s
language, and is compelled to submit without being able to say a word
in justification of himself. I walked off with my goods, and, to
avoid a recurrence of such a scene disposed of it to the first who
offered, receiving in exchange four strings of pice, small Chinese
coin, composed of a mixture of brass and copper, impressed with Chinese
characters, each having a square hole in the centre. I met several
others of my shipmates furnished in the same way. They being too bulky
to carry in our pockets we were forced to carry them in our hands; one
of our number had his strung on a stick and slung over his shoulder;
the Malays carry them at their girdles. After having expended a few of
them for fruit, and one hundred and fifty each for our dinners, the
balance were thrown by handsful amongst the children, for the fun of
seeing the naked little urchins scrambling for them. Our dinner we
procured from our friend John, who furnished us with a very palatable
repast of bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, sweet potatoes, pumpkins,
chickens, eggs, and rice. The chickens were stewed and seasoned to a
high degree with Cayenne pepper, of which condiment these people are
excessively fond, and, of course, think strangers are, or should be.
After dinner a drum and a couple of gongs were produced, and several
natives beat them for some time, making nothing like music to my ears.
When their performance had ceased, one of our fellows seized the drum,
and another, having his accordeon ashore, they began to play Yankee
Doodle; this was home music to us, and was received with a burst of
enthusiasm. One of our number, who had served in the Mexican war,
formed the men in line, with bamboo poles in the stead of muskets,
with which as many manœuvres were performed as would have excited the
awkward squad to emulation. The natives looked on with great glee. Our
friend John had purchased, from one of the party, a blue coat with
brass buttons, and a double-barreled pistol without a lock; the coat
he wore, whilst the pistol was displayed in a prominent position; and
with these additions to his usual accoutrements he strutted around, the
beheld of all beholders. Feeling his dignity much increased by them, a
razor was shown him, to which he took a great fancy, and insisted on
being shaved with it, after which he purchased it. Edge tools, such
as sheath and jack knives, scissors, &c., are eagerly sought for by
these people; even a piece of iron hoop is of value, and a foot of
it will procure for the possessor a day’s regalement. Their creeses,
one of which each male carries, are short swords, from eighteen inches
to two feet in length, irregularly shaped, and made of an unpolished
soft metal; they are carried in neat wooden sheaths; the handles are
of ivory, beautifully carved and ornamented. This is not the work of
the Malay, but of the Chinese; and the fact explains the eagerness with
which they purchase whale’s teeth--their hardness, and the superior
whiteness of the ivory, rendering them peculiarly applicable for this
purpose. These weapons are used by them in their encounters with wild
beasts, more particularly the tiger, which infests these islands.
Usually, when the tiger seizes his prey, they told us, he catches his
victim by the calico which encircles the waist, thus leaving his arms
free; then the Malay, feeling for the shoulder-blade, inserts his
creese, and, piercing the beast’s heart, relieves himself from his
cruel enemy. Their descriptions of their encounters with the tiger I am
inclined to think are, to a great extent, bombast; as from observation,
I have little faith in their confidence in themselves or weapons--one
of the boatsteerers belonging to the James Allen, when under the
influence of their abominable toddy, driving a score of them before
him with a good sized cudgel. Beside their creeses, each carries in
his girdle a box containing the beetle-nut, of which he takes a large
piece enveloped in a green leaf, belonging to I know not what plant,
and swallows it with great gusto. This practice, which is to them as
much of a necessity as tobacco is to a sailor, blackens their teeth
to an ebon tinge, and, I should judge, ruined them; as few, even of
the youngest of those who have arrived at maturity, have anything but
stumps of teeth. They also use the tobacco which grows on the island,
known to seamen as “shag tobacco.” It has little taste, and when
smoked, exhales an unpleasant odor; grows in threads and looks like
saffron.
Here, as in all barbaric countries, the women are obliged to do the
principal part of the work, and they may be seen walking in Indian file
from the rice fields to the granary, each carrying on her head a large
basket; the whole being under the guidance of a strapping Malay, who,
from appearance, is anything but an easy taskmaster. We saw but very
little of the unmarried females, except at a distance; they were, for
the most part, engaged in weaving a cloth of alternate gaudy colors.
On our approach the weavers would drop their work and run like deer.
We examined their looms, and one who, at home, had been a weaver, said
that they were on the same principle as our hand-looms. The reason
ascribed for the timidity of the females was, that some years ago
a Spanish vessel of war visited the town, and the crew, on getting
ashore, indulging in anise until drunk, indiscriminately violated
and otherwise maltreated the women. We could occasionally detect
them peeping out, to have a look at us, from some secure retreat. No
liberties could be taken, for the first two days, with any of them,
when an acute fellow, moved by a spirit, not unlike Yankee speculation,
procured prostitutes from an adjacent town; but he overshot his mark,
as the liberty was then stopped, and those ashore on duty were not
provided with available funds. There is a system of slavery here; and
John showed me a woman, whom he said would die--indeed, she appeared
in the last stages of disease--informing me at the same time that she
had cost him eight dollars, but that he would sell her to me for three.
Having no desire to be possessed of a human chattel in this part of
the world, I declined his accommodating offer. I could not detect any
difference in the races; both master and slave were, apparently, of one
family.
There are two Chinese merchants located here, who appear to monopolize
the whole trade of the town; they had a mart filled with china ware,
vermilion, cards, and various articles of Chinese manufacture; amongst
which they displayed, as very desirable articles, some disgusting
licentious paintings on glass--the workmanship and coloring displaying
no mean artistic skill. They were eager to display their possessions,
and showed us a large camphor-wood chest, filled with pice; but,
although the natives were continually passing in and out, the merchants
manifested no apprehension of theft; they seemed systematic in their
business, and, like all Celestials, considered themselves the only
civilized nation on the face of the globe.
The houses the Malays inhabit are built of bamboo; the first floor is
raised some six or eight feet from the ground, and the second about ten
feet above the first; the floors are of split bamboo. These houses are
airy and commodious; in the rainy season the inmates thatch the roof
and cover the sides with mats, to protect themselves from the weather.
The canoes, generally, are built of tamarind-wood, having outriggers
on each side to prevent capsizing; they are propelled by a paddle in
the bow, and one on the quarter, and when the occupants are hurried
they skim along with great velocity. One man will go out in his
canoe, drop anchor, and smoke and fish all day long. Seeming to think
the straits belong to them, they will neither move nor turn out for
anybody. One day when we were towing a raft of water aboard, one of
these canoes lay directly in our course. Finding gestures and the
king’s English ineffectual in clearing the way, we merely sheered our
boats so as to pass; but the raft continuing its course, caught in the
outrigger of the canoe, and, despite the exertions of its owner, it
was dragged for some distance before he was able to extricate it. All
the time he was spluttering away in Malay, until, finally, he mustered
enough English to sing out, “Let go;” but, as the current was strong,
we had as much as we could do to hold our own, without helping him.
Their cattle, which they call buffalo, do not, either in size, shape,
or appearance, resemble the rovers on our Western prairies; they are
small, formed like our ox, with slender legs, and hair the color of
that of the deer. I at once pronounced them a variety of the musk ox,
and when, a few days after, I partook of the flesh, my opinion was
strengthened. The flesh was white and tender, but had so strong an odor
and taste as to be unpalatable to us. I do not know whether the Malays
eat them or not. The cows give a rich milk, which, like the flesh,
tastes strong.
Their horses are undersized, but appear active, hardy, and intelligent.
Every family has numbers of poultry, and it is a favorite amusement to
pit them against each other--houses for the purpose existing in several
parts of the town.
The ducks are the most peculiar that I ever saw; they stand erect,
with their heads high in air, and are facetiously nicknamed “Balli
soldiers:” they are excellent eating.
The principal provisions we obtained here were sweet potatoes and
pumpkins; the former were smaller and not near so good as ours at home,
but formed a pleasant variety. We soon disposed of them; sixty bushels
lasting only six weeks. The pumpkins, in shape and taste, resemble our
squashes. We also managed to get a few yucas, which is an esculent
resembling the potato, and, I think, a small variety of the yam.
Beside these, we carried out large quantities of cocoa-nuts, bananas,
and tamarinds--the bananas, being brought aboard in an unripe state,
after a few days were fit to eat; our cook attempted to boil some, but
the attempt proved a failure--we preferring them raw. The tamarinds
were preserved in molasses and stowed away; they are valuable for their
anti-scorbutic properties, and were kept aboard for years after leaving
Balli.
One day, whilst lying here, after I had pretty well satiated my
curiosity in the town, I strolled into the country, and came across
a cemetery filled with hecatombs--a slab being placed at the head,
another at the foot of the grave, and the space between filled with
stones. Near this cemetery was a spot enclosed by a high, solid, stone
wall, but I could not ascertain for what purpose it was designed.
Pursuing my way, I found a number of trees covered with the names of
ships that had visited Balli, with date and country attached: amongst
them I noticed that of the Spanish ship before mentioned, and those of
several whalers, with the quantity of oil they had aboard specified. I
found some one had been here before me and carved our old barque’s name
in large characters. Beyond this spot I discovered that a very populous
country existed; but why we had not been told of it at the lower town,
I cannot divine. The natives clustered around us in great numbers, and
the women, after the first sight, were not afraid to approach us. In
the centre of the town was a cockpit, where fowls, with steel gaffs,
were plunging at each other, whilst their owners and backers were
freely betting as to the result, so intensely bent on the contest,
that they had neither eyes nor ears for us. Some of the men here were
rather officious, and we scarcely knew what their intentions might be;
probably it was only curiosity; but it induced us to beat as speedy a
retreat as we could, without exciting notice.
These people are very temperate, and I did not see them indulge in any
of their intoxicating liquors, which consist of two varieties; one,
a scarlet-colored spirit, which they call “toddie,” is made from the
fermented juice of the unripe cocoa-nut. At first taste it does not
appear strong, but over-indulgence in it produces either stupefaction
or a species of insanity, resembling no effect I have ever seen from
any other spirit. In the first case the subject is reduced to perfect
helplessness and insensibility, which does not leave him altogether
for several days; if the latter effect is produced, all the symptoms
of violent insanity appear, and the madman does not rest until he has
had a quarrel. Hence it was called “fighting toddie;” and one who has
once indulged in it shuns it afterwards, on the principle that a burned
child dreads the fire.
The Anise is a colorless liquid, with a smoky, fiery taste, and has the
same effect as other spirituous drinks. Neither of these liquors could
be procured in the town when we first came ashore, whereupon some of
us congratulated ourselves on the prospect of a temperate and sociable
day; but part of our crew, determined to have a spree, by the offer of
half a dozen whale’s teeth, induced a native to cross the country in
quest of it. The hesitation of the people in furnishing it, evidently
proceeded from a perfect knowledge of its effect upon seamen when
ashore, and indulging in it _ad libitum_.
The rajah of the town and his clerk visited the ship one morning.
The rajah’s dress and air were anything but kingly. He was a man of
advanced age, and at home would have passed muster as a respectable
looking mulatto; but he had little to say, not understanding our
language--his clerk, Tonga, interpreting for our captain and he. The
harbor duties were paid in powder, with the addition of an old musket,
and the provisions in whale’s teeth.
The coast is considered unhealthy by the natives themselves; the
rajah’s clerk expressing himself anxious to get away into the interior,
saying that he was fearful of being sick. The utmost care was taken
by us to prevent sickness. None of our crew were necessitated to
drink the water--a cask of beer being continually on draught on the
quarter-deck. No sleeping on deck was allowed, and no staying ashore
at night. Even with all these precautions, our second and third mates
were very ill--the latter severely so--and also one of the crew, with
a debilitating fever peculiar to the climate. Several belonging to the
James Allen also had reason to remember Balli for a long time after
they left it--a distressing dysentery continuing to affect them for
months. At Angiers, in Java, in nearly the same latitude as Balli,
scarce an American whaler goes out, after a short stay, without leaving
one or more of her crew to repose in death on its lovely shores: and
we cannot but feel thankful for the protecting care of Providence,
in guarding us from such a misfortune. This is the only objection to
these East Indian ports, as I know of none where a crew of young men,
if so disposed, can pass a few days more rationally and pleasantly,
gleaning at the same time useful information. The climate appears to
agree with the natives, as I saw numbers of the most attenuated human
beings, who had attained a great age, so reduced that the student
might, by procuring one of them, readily study anatomy from a living
subject. I was at a loss for a long time to divine the occupation of
these emaciated creatures, but soon found that they were mendicants.
They never solicited alms, but seemed to make a good thing of it--the
countrymen and women bestowing pice freely amongst them. Although so
old and reduced, their vanity still remained, as was shown by their
eagerness to purchase our gaudy calico.
These people profess the religion of Mahomet, and their creed seems to
enjoin cleanliness upon them, as they are neat and cleanly to an almost
painful degree--performing their ablutions frequently and thoroughly,
like all others of the same faith. Pork is their abomination, as much
as it is to the children of Judea.
Parrots and cockatoos exist here in great numbers, and may be seen in
the lofty cocoa-nut trees. The cockatoo is a beautiful bird, about the
size of our pigeon; it is perfectly white in its body plumage; on the
head is a crest consisting of three or four feathers of a beautiful
yellow, which it elevates at pleasure; it has a formidable beak, is
easily tamed, and can be taught to articulate. Ashore I saw several
domesticated, that jabbered Malay with great fluency, and traversed the
house on a perfect equality with the cats and children. Monkeys also,
may be seen in these groves; they are small, but active, mischievous,
and intelligent. Cockatoos and monkeys had attracted the attention of
more than one of us; and half a dozen of the former, and two of the
latter, were transferred to our ship, where they soon made themselves
at home. The birds lived for some time, but were finally lost
overboard. The monkeys not agreeing well together, one was given away,
and the other committed suicide by eating putty.
On the last liberty day Kedge Anchor, from our vessel, and no less
than seven from the James Allen, deserted; but their departure was
soon reported, and natives despatched in search of them on the same
day. After a tiresome walk of ten miles, during which they represented
themselves as having been treated by the natives with the utmost
hospitality, they found themselves surrounded by a score of the
rajah’s body guard, armed with drawn creeses; and, with some demurrage,
the deserters, having no arms, were compelled to submit. No indignities
were offered to them. Horses were provided for each, and thus mounted
they were conducted back to the coast--their attendants easily keeping
pace with them on foot. They arrived at night, and were comfortably
provided with lodgings and an excellent supper, and next morning were
delivered over to their respective captains, on the payment of a piece
of blue cotton cloth, as a ransom for each. There was very little said
to our shipmate, but aboard the Allen her deserters were handcuffed and
put between decks; though after a short time they were liberated. This
freak hastened our departure from the port, and on Sunday morning, at 3
o’clock, all hands were called to “Up anchor, ahoy!” With a merry song
the windlass was manned, and soon the old barque was on her way out. We
had several hundred chickens aboard, one hundred ducks, six cockatoos,
two monkeys, and a Malay puppy. These creatures, all excited by the
unusual position they found themselves in, were respectively venting
their dissatisfaction in the most vociferous manner. The cackling
of the chickens, quacking of the ducks, chattering of cockatoos and
monkeys, the yelping of the puppy, and the merry “Yeo, heave, ho!”
of the sailors, blended, formed a chaos of noises, indescribable and
deafening. Our bananas were hung under the tops, over the stern, and on
the stays and rigging--giving our floating home a lively appearance.
On the last day of our stay in port, the Englishman who had made
himself so disagreeable to all hands, on expressing a wish to be left
ashore, was discharged by our captain. He had seven or eight pounds
sterling; the captain gave him several more, as also a piece of cotton
stuff for which he could readily procure sale, and then provided him
a guide across the country. A large, powerful man, belonging to Troy,
New York, having effected his escape from the Allen, on the last day,
eluding the natives sent in pursuit of him, was supposed to have
accompanied him, and both took their way to Anfernande, a seaport some
thirty miles distant.
In the evening of the day that we took our departure from this pleasant
spot, we were favored with a strong breeze, and the crew became
themselves again in the execution of their multifarious duties about
the ship; lying in port always giving to Jack Tar a sluggish carriage;
but the moment the sea breeze strikes the vessel, he livens up and
feels himself called upon for exertion.
In the course of the ensuing week, the cocoa-nuts, tamarinds, and
bananas were proportionately distributed amongst the crew, fore and
aft, and these, with fowl additions to our usual sea fare, enabled
us to live high for some time; and our monkeys affording a source of
amusement, time passed speedily and pleasantly. These little creatures
soon became expert in running about the rigging; a suit of sailor’s
clothes was made for them, and their antics in this attire were most
ludicrous. They became much attached to one of the boatsteerers, and
followed him, in fine weather, to the masthead. One day he observed
them run in company to the extreme end of the maintopgallant yard-arm,
when one, with a mischievous grin, pushed the other off; but though the
poor fellow fell on deck, he escaped with slight injury.
With a fine breeze, we steered a southerly course, along the West
coast of New Holland, until we arrived on our old cruising-ground.
The weather here, although a few weeks previously we had found it
uncomfortably warm, after our visit to so much lower latitudes, felt
quite chilly, and woolen shirts, stockings, and underclothes--articles
of apparel to which we had long been strangers--were hunted up from out
of the way nooks and corners of chests, and donned. We here saw the
ship Stephania, of New Bedford, making a passage for Angiers, whence
her course went homeward. She was leaking badly, and her crew grumbled
at the oppressive labor of pumping in the existing hot weather. She
had considerable right whale oil, taken off the Island of Desolation,
which island was described by her crew as a miserable place for
cruising--cold weather, with heavy gales, prevailing there almost all
the time. A few days previous to our meeting her, they had been fast to
a large sperm whale, which crushed a boat in its huge jaws, seriously
injuring the captain’s hand at the time.