Passage up Hayes', Steel, and Hill Rivers--Cross Swampy Lake--Jack
River--Knee Lake and Magnetic Islet--Trout River--Holy
Lake--Weepinapannis River--Windy Lake--White-Fall Lake and
River--Echemamis and Sea Rivers--Play-Green Lakes--Lake
Winipeg--River Saskatchawan--Cross, Cedar, and Pine-Island
Lakes--Cumberland House.
1819. September.
On the 9th of September, our boat being completed, arrangements were
made for our departure as soon as the tide should serve. But, when the
stores were brought down to the beach, it was found that the boat would
not contain them all. The whole, therefore, of the bacon, and part of
the flour, rice, tobacco, and ammunition, were returned into the store.
The bacon was too bulky an article to be forwarded under any
circumstances; but the Governor undertook to forward the rest next
season. In making the selection of articles to carry with us, I was
guided by the judgment of Governor Williams, who assured me that
tobacco, ammunition, and spirits, could be procured in the interior,
otherwise I should have been very unwilling to have left these
essential articles behind. We embarked at noon, and were honoured with a
salute of eight guns and three cheers from the Governor and all the
inmates of the fort, who had assembled to witness our departure. We
gratefully returned their cheers, and then made sail, much delighted at
having now commenced our voyage into the interior of America. The wind
and tide failing us at the distance of six miles above the Factory, and
the current being too rapid for using oars to advantage, the crew had to
commence tracking, or dragging the boat by a line, to which they were
harnessed. This operation is extremely laborious in these rivers. Our
men were obliged to walk along the steep declivity of a high bank,
rendered at this season soft and slippery by frequent rains, and their
progress was often further impeded by fallen trees, which, having
slipped from the verge of the thick wood above, hung on the face of the
bank in a great variety of directions. Notwithstanding these obstacles,
we advanced at the rate of two miles an hour, one-half of the crew
relieving the other at intervals of an hour and a half. The banks of the
river, and its islands, composed of alluvial soil, are well covered with
pines, larches, poplars, and willows. The breadth of the stream, some
distance above the Factory, is about half a mile, and its depth, during
this day's voyage, varied from three to nine feet.
At sunset we landed, and pitched the tent for the night, having made a
progress of twelve miles. A large fire was quickly kindled, supper
speedily prepared, and as readily despatched, when we retired with our
buffalo robes on, and enjoyed a night of sound repose.
It may here be stated, that the survey of the river was made by taking
the bearings of every point with a pocket compass, estimating the
distances, and making a connected eye-sketch of the whole. This part of
the survey was allotted to Messrs. Back and Hood conjointly: Mr. Hood
also protracted the route every evening on a ruled map, after the
courses and distances had been corrected by observations for latitude
and longitude, taken by myself as often as the weather would allow. The
extraordinary talent of this young officer in this line of service
proved of the greatest advantage to the Expedition, and he continued to
perform that duty until his lamented death, with a degree of zeal and
accuracy that characterized all his pursuits.
The next morning our camp was in motion at five A.M., and we soon
afterwards embarked with the flattering accompaniment of a fair wind: it
proved, however, too light to enable us to stem the stream, and we were
obliged to resume the fatiguing operation of tracking; sometimes under
cliffs so steep that the men could scarcely find a footing, and not
unfrequently over spots rendered so miry by the small streams that
trickled from above, as to be almost impassable. In the course of the
day we passed the scene of a very melancholy accident. Some years ago,
two families of Indians, induced by the flatness of a small beach, which
lay betwixt the cliff and the river, chose it as the site of their
encampment. They retired quietly to rest, not aware that the precipice,
detached from the bank, and urged by an accumulation of water in the
crevice behind, was tottering to its base. It fell during the night, and
the whole party was buried under its ruins.
The length of our voyage to-day was, in a direct line, sixteen miles and
a quarter, on a S.S.W. course. We encamped soon after sunset, and the
tent was scarcely pitched when a heavy rain began, which continued all
night.
Sixteen miles on the 11th, and five on the following morning, brought us
to the commencement of Hayes' River, which is formed by the confluence
of the Shamattawa and Steel Rivers. Our observations place this spot in
latitude 56° 22' 32" N., longitude 93° 1' 37" W. It is forty-eight miles
and a half from York Factory including the windings of the river. Steel
River, through which our course lay, is about three hundred yards wide
at its mouth; its banks have more elevation than those of Hayes' River,
but they shelve more gradually down to the stream, and afford a
tolerably good towing path, which compensates, in some degree, for the
rapids and frequent shoals that impede its navigation. We succeeded in
getting about ten miles above the mouth of the river, before the close
of day compelled us to disembark.
We made an effort, on the morning of the 13th, to stem the current under
sail, but as the course of the river was very serpentine, we found that
greater progress could be made by tracking. Steel River presents much
beautiful scenery; it winds through a narrow, but well wooded, valley,
which at every turn disclosed to us an agreeable variety of prospect,
rendered more picturesque by the effect of the season on the foliage,
now ready to drop from the trees. The light yellow of the fading poplars
formed a fine contrast to the dark evergreen of the spruce, whilst the
willows of an intermediate hue, served to shade the two principal masses
of colour into each other. The scene was occasionally enlivened by the
bright purple tints of the dogwood, blended with the browner shades of
the dwarf birch, and frequently intermixed with the gay yellow flowers
of the shrubby cinquefoil. With all these charms, the scene appeared
desolate from the want of the human species. The stillness was so great,
that even the twittering of the _whiskey-johneesh_, or cinereous crow,
caused us to start. Our voyage to-day was sixteen miles on a S.W.
course.
_Sept. 14_.--We had much rain during the night, and also in the morning,
which detained us in our encampment later than usual. We set out as soon
as the weather cleared up; and in a short time arrived at the head of
Steel River, where it is formed by the junction of Fox and Hill Rivers.
These two rivers are nearly of equal width, but the latter is the most
rapid. Mr. McDonald, on his way to Red River, in a small canoe, manned
by two Indians, overtook us at this place. It may be mentioned as a
proof of the dexterity of the Indians, and the skill with which they
steal upon their game, that they had on the preceding day, with no other
arms than a hatchet, killed two deer, a hawk, a curlew, and a sturgeon.
Three of the Company's boats joined us in the course of the morning, and
we pursued our course up Hill River in company. The water in this river
was so low, and the rapids so bad, that we were obliged several times,
in the course of the day, to jump into the water, and assist in lifting
the boat over the large stones which impeded the navigation. The length
of our voyage to-day was only six miles and three quarters.
The four boats commenced operations together at five o'clock the
following morning; but our boat being overladen, we soon found that we
were unable to keep pace with the others; and, therefore, proposed to
the gentlemen in charge of the Company's boats, that they should relieve
us of part of our cargo. This they declined doing, under the plea of not
having received orders to that effect, notwithstanding that the
circular, with which I was furnished by Governor Williams, strictly
enjoined all the Company's servants to afford us every assistance. In
consequence of this refusal we dropt behind, and our steersman, who was
inexperienced, being thus deprived of the advantage of observing the
route followed by the guide, who was in the foremost boat, frequently
took a wrong channel. The tow-line broke twice, and the boat was only
prevented from going broadside down the stream, and breaking to pieces
against the stones, by the officers and men leaping into the water, and
holding her head to the current until the line could be carried again to
the shore. It is but justice to say, that in these trying situations, we
received much assistance from Mr. Thomas Swaine, who with great
kindness waited for us with the boat under his charge at such places as
he apprehended would be most difficult to pass. We encamped at sunset,
completely jaded with toil. Our distance made good this day was twelve
miles and a quarter.
The labours of the 16th commenced at half past five, and for some time
the difficulty of getting the boats over the rapids was equal to what we
experienced the day before. Having passed a small brook, however, termed
_Half-way Creek_, the river became deeper, and although rapid, it was
smooth enough to be named by our Orkney boatmen _Still-water_. We were
further relieved by the Company's clerks consenting to take a few boxes
of our stores into their boats. Still we made only eleven miles in the
course of the day.
The banks of Hill River are higher, and have a more broken outline, than
those of Steel or Hayes' Rivers. The cliffs of alluvial clay rose in
some places to the height of eighty or ninety feet above the stream, and
were surmounted by hills about two hundred feet high, but the thickness
of the wood prevented us from seeing far beyond the mere banks of the
river.
_September 17_.--About half past five in the morning we commenced
tracking, and soon came to a ridge of rock which extended across the
stream. From this place the boat was dragged up several narrow rocky
channels, until we came to the Rock Portage, where the stream, pent in
by a range of small islands, forms several cascades. In ascending the
river, the boats with their cargoes are carried over one of the islands,
but in the descent they are shot down the most shelving of the cascades.
Having performed the operations of carrying, launching, and restowing
the cargo, we plied the oars for a short distance, and landed at a depôt
called Rock House. Here we were informed that the rapids in the upper
parts of Hill River were much worse and more numerous than those we had
passed, particularly in the present season, owing to the unusual lowness
of the water. This intelligence was very mortifying, especially as the
gentlemen in charge of the Company's boats declared that they were
unable to carry any part of our stores beyond this place; and the
traders, guides, and most experienced of the boatmen, were of opinion,
that unless our boat was still further lightened, the winter would put a
stop to our progress before we could reach Cumberland House, or any
eligible post. Sixteen pieces were therefore necessarily left with Mr.
Bunn, the gentleman in charge of the post, to be forwarded by the
Athabasca canoes next season, this being their place of rendezvous.
After this we recommenced our voyage, and having pulled nearly a mile,
arrived at Borrowick's Fall, where the boat was dragged up with a line,
after part of the cargo had been carried over a small portage. From this
place to the Mud Portage, a distance of a mile and three quarters, the
boats were pushed on with poles against a very rapid stream. Here we
encamped, having come seven miles during the day on a S.W. course. We
had several snow showers in the course of the day, and the thermometer
at bed-time stood at 30°.
On the morning of the 18th, the country was clothed in the livery of
winter, a heavy fall of snow having taken place during the night. We
embarked at the usual hour, and in the course of the day, crossed the
Point of Rocks and Brassa Portages, and dragged the boats through
several minor rapids. In this tedious way we only made good about nine
miles.
On Sunday the 19th we hauled the boats up several short rapids, or, as
the boatmen term them, expressively enough, _spouts_, and carried them
over the Portages of Lower Burntwood and Morgan's Rocks; on the latter
of which we encamped, having proceeded, during the whole day only one
mile and three quarters.
The upper part of Hill River swells out considerably, and at Morgan's
Rocks, where it is three quarters of a mile wide, we were gratified with
a more extensive prospect of the country than any we had enjoyed since
leaving York Factory. The banks of the river here, consisting of low
flat rocks with intermediate swamps, permitted us to obtain views of the
interior, the surface of which is broken into a multitude of cone-shaped
hills. The highest of these hills, which gives a name to the river, has
an elevation not exceeding six hundred feet. From its summit, thirty-six
lakes are said to be visible. The beauty of the scenery, dressed in the
tints of autumn called forth our admiration, and was the subject of Mr.
Hood's accurate pencil. On the 20th we passed Upper Burntwood and Rocky
Ledge Portages, besides several strong _spouts_; and in the evening
arrived at Smooth Rock Portage, where we encamped, having come three
miles and a half. It is not easy for any but an eye-witness to form an
adequate idea of the exertions of the Orkney boatmen in the navigation
of this river. The necessity they are under of frequently jumping into
the water to lift the boats over the rocks, compels them to remain the
whole day in wet clothes, at a season when the temperature is far below
the freezing point. The immense loads too, which they carry over the
portages, is not more a matter of surprise than the alacrity with which
they perform these laborious duties.
At six on the morning of the 21st, we left our encampment, and soon
after arrived at the Mossy Portage, where the cargoes were carried
through a deep bog for a quarter of a mile. The river swells out, above
this portage, to the breadth of several miles, and as the islands are
numerous there are a great variety of channels. Night overtook us before
we arrived at the _Second Portage_, so named from its being the second
in the passage down the river. Our whole distance this day was one mile
and a quarter.
On the 22d our route led us amongst many wooded islands, which, lying in
long vistas, produced scenes of much beauty. In the course of the day we
crossed the Upper Portage, surmounted the Devil's Landing Place, and
urged the boat with poles through Groundwater Creek. At the upper end of
this creek, our bowman having given the boat too great a sheer, to avoid
the rock, it was caught on the broadside by the current, and, in
defiance of our utmost exertions, hurried down the rapid. Fortunately,
however, it grounded against a rock high enough to prevent the current
from oversetting it, and the crews of the other boats having come to our
assistance, we succeeded, after several trials, in throwing a rope to
them, with which they dragged our almost sinking vessel stern foremost
up the stream, and rescued us from our perilous situation. We encamped
in the dusk of the evening amidst a heavy thunder-storm, having advanced
two miles and three quarters.
About ten in the morning of the 23d we arrived at the _Dramstone_, which
is hailed with pleasure by the boats' crews, as marking the termination
of the laborious ascent of Hill River. We complied with the custom from
whence it derives its name, and soon after landing upon Sail Island
prepared breakfast. In the mean time our boatmen cut down and rigged a
new mast, the old one having been thrown overboard at the mouth of Steel
River, where it ceased to be useful. We left Sail Island with a fair
wind, and soon afterwards arrived at a depôt situated on Swampy Lake,
where we received a supply of mouldy _pemmican_[2]. Mr. Calder and his
attendant were the only tenants of this cheerless abode, and their only
food was the wretched stuff with which they supplied us, the lake not
yielding fish at this season. After a short delay at this post, we
sailed through the remainder of Swampy Lake, and slept at the Lower
Portage in Jack River; the distance sailed to-day being sixteen miles
and a half.
[2] Buffalo-meat, dried and pounded, and mixed with melted fat.
Jack River is only eight miles long; but being full of bad rapids, it
detained us considerably. At seven in the morning of the 24th, we
crossed the Long Portage, where the woods, having caught fire in the
summer, were still smoking. This is a common accident, owing to the
neglect of the Indians and voyagers in not putting out their fires, and
in a dry season the woods may be seen blazing to the extent of many
miles. We afterwards crossed the Second, or Swampy Portage, and in the
evening encamped on the Upper Portage, where we were overtaken by an
Indian bringing an answer from Governor Williams to a letter I had
written to him on the 15th, in which he renewed his injunctions to the
gentlemen of the boats accompanying us, to afford us every assistance in
their power. The Aurora Borealis appeared this evening in form of a
bright arch, extending across the zenith in a N.W. and S.E. direction.
The extent of our voyage to-day was two miles.
About noon, on the 25th, we entered Knee Lake, which has a very
irregular form, and near its middle takes a sudden turn, from whence it
derives its name. It is thickly studded with islands, and its shores are
low and well-wooded. The surrounding country, as far as we could see, is
flat, being destitute even of the moderate elevations which occur near
the upper part of Hill River. The weather was remarkably fine, and the
setting sun threw the richest tints over the scene that I remember ever
to have witnessed.
About half a mile from the bend or _knee_ of the lake, there is a small
rocky islet, composed of magnetic iron ore, which affects the magnetic
needle at a considerable distance. Having received previous information
respecting this circumstance, we watched our compasses carefully, and
perceived that they were affected at the distance of three hundred
yards, both on the approach to and departure from the rock: on
decreasing the distance, they became gradually more and more unsteady,
and on landing they were rendered quite useless; and it was evident that
the general magnetic influence was totally overpowered by the local
attraction of the ore. When Kater's compass was held near to the ground
on the N.W. side of the island, the needle dipped so much that the card
could not be made to traverse by any adjustment of the hand; but on
moving the same compass about thirty yards to the west part of the
islet, the needle became horizontal, traversed freely, and pointed to
the magnetic north. The dipping needle being landed on the S.W. point of
the islet, was adjusted as nearly as possible on the magnetic meridian
by the sun's bearings, and found to vibrate freely, when the face of the
instrument was directed to the east or west. The mean dip it gave was
80° 37' 50". When the instrument was removed from the N.W. to the S.E.
point, about twenty yards distant, and placed on the meridian, the
needle ceased to traverse, but remained steady at an angle of 60°. On
changing the face of the instrument, so as to give a S.E. and N.W.
direction to the needle, it hung vertically. The position of the slaty
strata of the magnetic ore is also vertical. Their direction is
extremely irregular, being much contorted.
Knee Lake towards its upper end becomes narrower, and its rocky shores
are broken into conical and rounded eminences, destitute of soil, and of
course devoid of trees. We slept at the western extremity of the lake,
having come during the day nineteen miles and a half on a S.W. course.
We began the ascent of Trout River early in the morning of the 27th, and
in the course of the day passed three portages and several rapids. At
the first of these portages the river falls between two rocks about
sixteen feet, and it is necessary to launch the boat over a precipitous
rocky bank. This cascade is named the _Trout-Fall_, and the beauty of
the scenery afforded a subject for Mr. Hood's pencil. The rocks which
form the bed of this river are slaty, and present sharp fragments, by
which the feet of the boatmen are much lacerated. The Second Portage, in
particular, obtains the expressive name of _Knife Portage_. The length
of our voyage to-day was three miles.
On the 28th we passed through the remainder of Trout River; and, at
noon, arrived at Oxford House, on Holey Lake. This was formerly a post
of some consequence to the Hudson's Bay Company, but at present it
exhibits unequivocal signs of decay. The Indians have of late years been
gradually deserting the low or swampy country, and ascending the
Saskatchawan, where animals are more abundant. A few Crees were at this
time encamped in front of the fort. They were suffering under
hooping-cough and measles, and looked miserably dejected. We endeavoured
in vain to prevail on one of them to accompany us for the purpose of
killing ducks, which were numerous, but too shy for our sportsmen. We
had the satisfaction, however, of exchanging the mouldy pemmican,
obtained at Swampy Lake, for a better kind, and received, moreover, a
small, but very acceptable, supply of fish. Holey Lake, viewed from an
eminence behind Oxford House, exhibits a pleasing prospect; and its
numerous islands, varying much in shape and elevation, contribute to
break that uniformity of scenery which proves so palling to a traveller
in this country. Trout of a great size, frequently exceeding forty
pounds' weight, abound in this lake. We left Oxford House in the
afternoon, and encamped on an island about eight miles' distant, having
come, during the day, nine miles and a quarter.
At noon, on the 29th, after passing through the remainder of Holey Lake,
we entered the Weepinapannis, a narrow grassy river, which runs parallel
to the lake for a considerable distance, and forms its south bank into a
narrow peninsula. In the morning we arrived at the Swampy Portage, where
two of the boats were broken against the rocks. The length of the day's
voyage was nineteen miles and a half.
In consequence of the accident yesterday evening, we were detained a
considerable time this morning, until the boats were repaired, when we
set out, and, after ascending a strong rapid, arrived at the portage by
John Moore's Island. Here the river rushes with irresistible force
through the channels formed by two rocky islands; and we learned, that
last year a poor man, in hauling a boat up one of these channels, was,
by the breaking of the line, precipitated into the stream and hurried
down the cascade with such rapidity, that all efforts to save him were
ineffectual. His body was afterwards found, and interred near the spot.
The Weepinapannis is composed of several branches which separate and
unite, again and again, intersecting the country in a great variety of
directions. We pursued the principal channel, and having passed the
Crooked Spout, with several inferior rapids, and crossed a small piece
of water, named Windy Lake, we entered a smooth deep stream about three
hundred yards wide, which has got the absurd appellation of the Rabbit
Ground. The marshy banks of this river are skirted by low barren rocks,
behind which there are some groups of stunted trees{9}. As we advanced,
the country becoming flatter, gradually opened to our view, and we at
length arrived at a shallow, reedy lake, the direct course through which
leads to the Hill Portage. This route has, however, of late years been
disused, and we therefore turned towards the north, and crossing a small
arm of the lake, arrived at Hill Gates by sunset; having come this day
eleven miles.
_October 1_.--Hill gates is the name imposed on a romantic defile, whose
rocky walls, rising perpendicularly to the height of sixty or eighty
feet, hem in the stream for three quarters of a mile, in many places so
narrowly, that there is a want of room to ply the oars. In passing
through this chasm we were naturally led to contemplate the mighty but,
probably, slow and gradual effects of the water in wearing down such
vast masses of rock; but in the midst of our speculations, the attention
was excited anew to a grand and picturesque rapid, which, surrounded by
the most wild and majestic scenery, terminated the defile. The brown
fishing-eagle had built its nest on one of the projecting cliffs. In the
course of the day we surmounted this and another dangerous portage,
called, the Upper and Lower Hill Gate Portages, crossed a small sheet of
water, termed the White Fall Lake, and entering the river of the same
name, arrived at the White Fall about an hour after sunset, having come
fourteen miles on a S.W. course.
The whole of the 2d of October was spent in carrying the cargoes over a
portage of thirteen hundred yards in length, and in launching the empty
boats over three several ridges of rock which obstruct the channel and
produce as many cascades. I shall long remember the rude and
characteristic wildness of the scenery which surrounded these falls;
rocks piled on rocks hung in rude and shapeless masses over the agitated
torrents which swept their bases, whilst the bright and variegated tints
of the mosses and lichens, that covered the face of the cliffs,
contrasting with the dark green of the pines which crowned their
summits, added both beauty and grandeur to the scene. Our two
companions, Back and Hood, made accurate sketches of these falls. At
this place we observed a conspicuous _lop-stick_, a kind of land-mark,
which I have not hitherto noticed, notwithstanding its great use in
pointing out the frequented routes. It is a pine-tree divested of its
lower branches, and having only a small tuft at the top remaining. This
operation is usually performed at the instance of some individual
emulous of fame. He treats his companions with rum, and they in return
strip the tree of its branches, and ever after designate it by his name.
In the afternoon, whilst on my way to superintend the operations of the
men, a stratum of loose moss gave way under my feet, and I had the
misfortune to slip from the summit of a rock into the river betwixt two
of the falls. My attempts to regain the bank were, for a time
ineffectual, owing to the rocks within my reach having been worn smooth
by the action of the water; but, after I had been carried a considerable
distance down the stream, I caught hold of a willow, by which I held
until two gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company came in a boat to my
assistance. The only bad consequence{10} of this accident was an injury
sustained by a very valuable chronometer, (No. 1733,) belonging to
Daniel Moore, Esq., of Lincoln's Inn. One of the gentlemen to whom I
delivered it immediately on landing, in his agitation let it fall,
whereby the minute-hand was broken, but the works were not in the
smallest degree injured, and the loss of the hand was afterwards
supplied.
During the night the frost was severe; and at sunrise, on the 3d, the
thermometer stood at 25°. After leaving our encampment at the White
Fall, we passed through several small lakes connected with each other by
narrow deep, grassy streams, and at noon arrived at the Painted Stone.
Numbers of musk-rats frequent these streams; and we observed, in the
course of the morning, many of{11} their mud-houses rising in a conical
form to the height of two or three feet above the grass of the swamps in
which they were built.
The Painted Stone is a low rock, ten or twelve yards across, remarkable
for the marshy streams which arise on each side of it, taking different
courses. On the one side, the water-course which we had navigated from
York Factory commences. This spot may therefore be considered as one of
the smaller sources of Hayes' River. On the other side of the stone the
Echemamis rises, and taking a westerly direction falls into Nelson
River. It is said that there was formerly a stone placed near the centre
of this portage on which figures were annually traced, and offerings
deposited, by the Indians; but the stone has been removed many years,
and the spot has ceased to be held in veneration. Here we were overtaken
by Governor Williams, who left York Factory on the 20th of last month in
an Indian canoe. He expressed much regret at our having been obliged to
leave part of our stores at the Rock depôt, and would have brought them
up with him had he been able to procure and man a boat, or a canoe of
sufficient size.
Having launched the boats over the rock, we commenced the descent of the
Echemamis. This small stream has its course through a morass, and in dry
seasons its channel contains, instead of water, merely a foot or two of
thin mud. On these occasions it is customary to build dams that it may
be rendered navigable by the accumulation of its waters. As the beavers
perform this operation very effectually, endeavours have been made to
encourage them to breed in this place, but it has not hitherto been
possible to restrain the Indians from killing that useful animal
whenever they discover its retreats. On the present occasion there was
no want of water, the principal impediment we experienced being from the
narrowness of the channel, which permitted the willows of each bank to
meet over our heads, and obstruct the men at the oars. After proceeding
down the stream for some time, we came to a recently-constructed
beaver-dam through which an opening was made sufficient to admit the
boat to pass. We were assured that the breach would be closed by the
industrious creature in a single night. We encamped about eight miles
from the source of the river, having come during the day seventeen miles
and a half.
On the 4th we embarked amidst a heavy rain, and pursued our route down
the Echemamis. In many parts the morass, by which the river is
nourished, and through which it flows, is intersected by ridges of rock
which cross the channel, and require the boat to be lifted over them. In
the afternoon we passed through a shallow piece of water overgrown with
bulrushes, and hence named Hairy Lake; and, in the evening, encamped on
the banks of Blackwater Creek, by which this lake empties itself into
Sea River; having come during the day twenty miles and three quarters.
On the morning of the 5th, we entered Sea River, one of the many
branches of Nelson River. It is about four hundred yards wide, and its
waters are of a muddy white colour. After ascending the stream for an
hour or two, and passing through Carpenter's Lake, which is merely an
expansion of the river to about a mile in breadth, we came to the Sea
River Portage, where the boat was launched across a smooth rock, to
avoid a fall of four or five feet. Re-embarking at the upper end of the
portage, we ran before a fresh gale through the remainder of Sea River,
the lower part of Play Green Lake, and entering Little Jack River,
landed and pitched our tents. Here there is a small log-hut, the
residence of a fisherman, who supplies Norway House with trout and
sturgeon. He gave us a few of these fish, which afforded an acceptable
supper. Our voyage this day was thirty-four miles.
_October 6_.--Little Jack River is the name given to a channel that
winds among several large islands which separate Upper and Lower Play
Green Lakes. At the lower end of this channel, Big Jack River, a stream
of considerable magnitude, falls into the lake. Play Green is a
translation of the appellation given to that lake by two bands of
Indians, who met and held a festival on an island situated near its
centre. After leaving our encampment we sailed through Upper Play Green
Lake, and arrived at Norway Point in the forenoon.
The waters of Lake Winipeg, and of the rivers that run into it, the
Saskatchawan in particular, are rendered turbid by the suspension of a
large quantity of white clay. Play Green Lake and Nelson River, being
the discharges of the Winipeg, are equally opaque, a circumstance that
renders the sunken rocks, so frequent in these waters, very dangerous to
boats in a fresh breeze. Owing to this, one of the boats that
accompanied us, sailing at the rate of seven miles an hour, struck upon
one of these rocks. Its mast was carried away by the shock, but
fortunately no other damage sustained. The Indians ascribe the muddiness
of these lakes to an adventure of one of their deities, a mischievous
fellow, a sort of Robin Puck, whom they hold in very little esteem. This
deity, who is named Weesakootchaht, possesses considerable power, but
makes a capricious use of it, and delights in tormenting the poor
Indians. He is not, however, invincible, and was soiled in one of his
attempts by the artifice of an old woman, who succeeded in taking him
captive. She called in all the women of the tribe to aid in his
punishment, and he escaped from their hands in a condition so filthy
that it required all the waters of the Great Lake to wash him clean; and
ever since that period it has been entitled to the appellation of
Winipeg, or Muddy water.
Norway Point forms the extremity of a narrow peninsula which separates
Play Green and Winipeg Lakes. Buildings were first erected here by a
party of Norwegians, who were driven away from the colony at Red River
by the commotions which took place some time ago. It is now a trading
post belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company. On landing at Norway House
we met with Lord Selkirk's colonists, who had started from York Factory
the day before us.--These poor people were exceedingly pleased at
meeting with us again in this wild country; having accompanied them
across the Atlantic, they viewed us in the light of old acquaintances.
This post was under the charge of Mr. James Sutherland, to whom I am
indebted for replacing a minute-hand on the chronometer, which was
broken at the White Fall, and I had afterwards the satisfaction of
finding that it went with extraordinary regularity.
The morning of the 7th October was beautifully clear, and the
observations we obtained place Norway House in latitude 53° 41' 38" N.,
and longitude 98° 1' 24" W.; the variation of the magnetic needle 14°
12' 41" E., and its dip 83° 40' 10". Though our route from York Factory
has rather inclined to the S.W., the dip, it will be perceived, has
gradually increased. The difference produced by reversing the face of
the instrument was 7° 39'. There was too much wind to admit of our
observing, with any degree of accuracy, the quantity of the magnetic
force.
We left Norway House soon after noon, and the wind being favourable,
sailed along the northern shore of Lake Winipeg the whole of the ensuing
night; and on the morning of the 8th landed on a narrow ridge of sand,
which, running out twenty miles to the westward, separates Limestone Bay
from the body of the Lake. When the wind blows hard from the southward,
it is customary to carry boats across this isthmus, and to pull up under
its lee. From Norwegian Point to Limestone Bay the shore consists of
high clay cliffs, against which the waves beat with violence during
strong southerly winds. When the wind blows from the land, and the
waters of the lake are low, a narrow sandy beach is uncovered, and
affords a landing-place for boats. The shores of Limestone Bay are
covered with small fragments of calcareous stones. During the night the
Aurora Borealis was quick in its motions, and various and vivid in its
colours. After breakfasting we re-embarked, and continued our voyage
until three P.M., when a strong westerly wind arising, we were obliged
to shelter ourselves on a small island, which lies near the extremity of
the above-mentioned peninsula. This island is formed of a collection of
small rolled pieces of limestone, and was remembered by some of our
boatmen to have been formerly covered with water. For the last ten or
twelve years the waters of the lake have been low, but our information
did not enable us to judge whether the decrease was merely casual, or
going on continually, or periodical. The distance of this island from
Norway House is thirty-eight miles and a half.
The westerly winds detained us all the morning of the 9th, but, at two
P.M., the wind chopped round to the eastward; we immediately embarked,
and the breeze afterwards freshening, we reached the mouth of the
Saskatchawan at midnight, having run thirty-two miles.
_Sunday, October 10_.--The whole of this day was occupied in getting the
boats from the mouth of the river to the foot of the grand rapid, a
distance of two miles. There are several rapids in this short distance,
during which the river varies its breadth from five hundred yards to
half a mile. Its channel is stony. At the grand rapid, the Saskatchawan
forms a sudden bend, from south to east, and works its way through a
narrow channel, deeply worn into the limestone strata. The stream,
rushing with impetuous force over a rocky and uneven bottom, presents a
sheet of foam, and seems to bear with impatience the straitened
confinement of its lofty banks. A flock of pelicans, and two or three
brown fishing eagles, were fishing in its agitated waters, seemingly
with great success. There is a good sturgeon fishery at the foot of the
rapid. Several golden plovers, Canadian grosbeaks, cross-bills,
wood-peckers, and pin-tailed grouse, were shot to-day; and Mr. Back
killed a small striped marmot. This beautiful little animal was busily
employed in carrying in its distended pouches the seeds of the American
vetch to its winter hoards.
The portage is eighteen hundred yards long, and its western extremity
was found to be in 53° 08' 25" North latitude, and 99° 28' 02" West
longitude. The route from Canada to the Athabasca joins that from York
Factory at the mouth of the Saskatchawan, and we saw traces of a recent
encampment of the Canadian voyagers. Our companions in the Hudson's Bay
boats, dreading an attack from their rivals in trade, were on the alert
at this place. They examined minutely the spot of encampment, to form a
judgment of the number of canoes that had preceded them; and they
advanced, armed, and with great caution, through the woods. Their fears,
however, on this occasion, were fortunately groundless.
By noon, on the 12th, the boats and their cargoes having been conveyed
across the portage, we embarked, and pursued our course. The
Saskatchawan becomes wider above the Grand Rapid, and the scenery
improves. The banks are high, composed of white clay and limestone, and
their summits are richly clothed with a variety of firs, poplars,
birches, and willows. The current runs with great rapidity, and the
channel is in many places intricate and dangerous, from broken ridges of
rock jutting into the stream. We pitched our tents at the entrance of
Cross Lake, having advanced only five miles and a half.
Cross Lake is extensive, running towards the N.E. it is said, for forty
miles. We crossed it at a narrow part, and pulling through several
winding channels, formed by a group of islands, entered Cedar Lake,
which, next to Lake Winipeg, is the largest sheet of fresh water we had
hitherto seen. Ducks and geese resort hither in immense flocks in the
spring and autumn. These birds were now beginning to go off, owing to
its muddy shores having become quite hard through the nightly frosts. At
this place the Aurora Borealis was extremely brilliant in the night, its
coruscations darting, at times, over the whole sky, and assuming various
prismatic tints, of which the violet and yellow were predominant.
After pulling, on the 14th, seven miles and a quarter on the lake, a
violent wind drove us for shelter to a small island, or rather a ridge
of rolled stones, thrown up by the frequent storms which agitate this
lake. The weather did not moderate the whole day, and we were obliged to
pass the night on this exposed spot. The delay, however, enabled us to
obtain some lunar observations. The wind having subsided, we left our
resting-place the following morning, crossed the remainder of the lake,
and in the afternoon, arrived at Muddy Lake, which is very
appropriately named, as it consists merely of a few channels, winding
amongst extensive mud banks, which are overflowed during the spring
floods. We landed at an Indian tent, which contained two numerous
families, amounting to thirty souls. These poor creatures were badly
clothed, and reduced to a miserable condition by the hooping-cough and
measles. At the time of our arrival they were busy in preparing a
sweating-house for the sick. This is a remedy which they consider, with
the addition of singing and drumming, to be the grand specific for all
diseases. Our companions having obtained some geese, in exchange for rum
and tobacco, we proceeded a few more miles, and encamped on Devil's Drum
Island, having come, during the day, twenty miles and a half. A second
party of Indians were encamped on an adjoining island, a situation
chosen for the purpose of killing geese and ducks.
On the 16th we proceeded eighteen miles up the Saskatchawan. Its banks
are low, covered with willows, and lined with drift timber. The
surrounding country is swampy and intersected by the numerous arms of
the river. After passing for twenty or thirty yards through the willow
thicket on the banks of the stream, we entered an extensive marsh,
varied only by a distant line of willows, which marks the course of a
creek or branch of the river. The branch we navigated to-day, is almost
five hundred yards wide. The exhalations from the marshy soil produced a
low fog, although the sky above was perfectly clear. In the course of
the day we passed an Indian encampment of three tents, whose inmates
appeared to be in a still more miserable condition than those we saw
yesterday. They had just finished the ceremony of conjuration over some
of their sick companions; and a dog, which had been recently killed as a
sacrifice to some deity, was hanging to a tree where it would be left (I
was told) when they moved their encampment.
We continued our voyage up the river to the 20th with little variation
of scenery or incident, travelling in that time about thirty miles. The
near approach of winter was marked by severe frosts, which continued all
day unless when the sun chanced to be unusually bright, and the geese
and ducks were observed to take a southerly course in large flocks. On
the morning of the 20th we came to a party of Indians, encamped behind
the bank of the river on the borders of a small marshy lake, for the
purpose of killing water-fowl. Here we were gratified with the view of
a very large tent. Its length was about forty feet, its breadth
eighteen, and its covering was moose deer leather, with apertures for
the escape of the smoke from the fires which are placed at each end; a
ledge of wood was placed on the ground on both sides the whole length of
the tent, within which were the sleeping-places, arranged probably
according to families; and the drums and other instruments of
enchantment were piled up in the centre. Amongst the Indians there were
a great many half-breeds, who led an Indian life. Governor Williams gave
a dram and a piece of tobacco to each of the males of the party.
On the morning of the 21st a heavy fall of snow took place, which lasted
until two in the afternoon. In the evening we left the Saskatchawan, and
entered the Little River, one of the two streams by which Pine Island
Lake discharges its waters. We advanced to-day fourteen miles and a
quarter. On the 22d the weather was extremely cold and stormy, and we
had to contend against a strong head wind. The spray froze as it fell,
and the oars were so loaded with ice as to be almost unmanageable. The
length of our voyage this day was eleven miles.
The following morning was very cold; we embarked at day-light, and
pulled across a part of Pine Island Lake, about three miles and a half
to Cumberland House. The margin of the lake was so incrusted with ice,
that we had to break through a considerable space of it to approach the
landing-place. When we considered that this was the effect of only a few
days' frost at the commencement of winter, we were convinced of the
impractibility of advancing further by water this season, and therefore
resolved on accepting Governor Williams's kind invitation to remain with
him at this post. We immediately visited Mr. Connolly, the resident
partner of the North-West Company, and presented to him Mr. Mac
Gillivray's circular letter. He assured us that he should be most
desirous to forward our progress by every means in his power, and we
subsequently had ample proofs of his sincerity and kindness. The
unexpected addition of our party to the winter residents at this post,
rendered an increase of apartments necessary; and our men were
immediately appointed to complete and arrange an unfinished building as
speedily as possible.
_November 8_.--Some mild weather succeeded to the severe frosts we had
at our arrival; and the lake had not been entirely frozen before the
6th; but this morning the ice was sufficiently firm to admit of sledges
crossing it. The dogs were harnessed at a very early hour, and the
winter operations commenced by sending for a supply of fish from Swampy
River, where men had been stationed to collect it, just before the frost
set in. Both men and dogs appeared to enjoy the change; they started in
full glee, and drove rapidly along. An Indian, who had come to the house
on the preceding evening to request some provision for his family, whom
he represented to be in a state of starvation, accompanied them. His
party had been suffering greatly under the epidemic diseases of
hooping-cough and measles; and the hunters were still in too debilitated
a state to go out and provide them with meat. A supply was given to him,
and the men were directed to bring his father, an old and faithful
hunter, to the house, that he might have the comforts of nourishment and
warmth. He was brought accordingly, but these attentions were unavailing
as he died a few days afterwards. Two days before his death I was
surprised to observe him sitting for nearly three hours, in a piercingly
sharp day, in the saw-pit, employed in gathering the dust, and throwing
it by handfuls over his body, which was naked to the waist. As the man
was in possession of his mental faculties, I conceived he was performing
some devotional act preparatory to his departure, which he felt to be
approaching, and induced by the novelty of the incident, I went twice
to observe him more closely; but when he perceived that he was noticed,
he immediately ceased his operation, hung down his head, and by his
demeanour, intimated that he considered my appearance an intrusion. The
residents at the fort could give me no information on the subject, and I
could not learn that the Indians in general observe any particular
ceremony on the approach of death.
_November 15_.--The sky had been overcast during the last week; the sun
shone forth once only, and then not sufficiently for the purpose of
obtaining observations. Faint coruscations of the Aurora Borealis
appeared one evening, but their presence did not in the least affect the
electrometer or the compass. The ice daily became thicker in the lake,
and the frost had now nearly overpowered the rapid current of the
Saskatchawan River; indeed, parties of men who were sent from both the
forts to search for the Indians, and procure whatever skins and
provisions they might have collected, crossed that stream this day on
the ice. The white partridges made their first appearance near the
house, which birds are considered as the infallible harbingers of severe
weather.
_Monday, November 22_.--The Saskatchawan, and every other river, were
now completely covered with ice, except a small stream not far from the
fort through which the current ran very powerfully. In the course of the
week we removed into the house our men had prepared since our arrival.
We found it at first extremely cold notwithstanding that a good fire was
kept in each apartment, and we frequently experienced the extremes of
heat and cold on opposite sides of the body.
_November 24_.--We obtained observations for the dip of the needle and
intensity of the magnetic force in a spare room. The dip was 83° 9' 45",
and the difference produced by reversing the face of the instrument 13°
3' 6". When the needle was faced to the west it hung nearly
perpendicular. The Aurora Borealis had been faintly visible for a short
time the preceding evening. Some Indians arrived in search of provision,
having been totally incapacitated from hunting by sickness; the poor
creatures looked miserably ill, and they represented their distress to
have been extreme. Few recitals are more affecting than those of their
sufferings during unfavourable seasons, and in bad situations for
hunting and fishing. Many assurances have been given me that men and
women are yet living who have been reduced to feed upon the bodies of
their own family, to prevent actual starvation; and a shocking case was
cited to us of a woman who had been principal agent in the destruction
of several persons, and amongst the number her husband and nearest
relatives, in order to support life.
_November 28_.--The atmosphere had been clear every day during the last
week, about the end of which snow fell, when the thermometer rose from
20° below to 16° above zero. The Aurora Borealis was twice visible, but
faint on both occasions. Its appearance did not affect the electrometer,
nor could we perceive the compass to be disturbed.
The men brought supplies of moose meat from the hunter's tent, which is
pitched near the Basquiau Hill, forty or fifty miles from the house, and
whence the greatest part of the meat is procured. The residents have to
send nearly the same distance for their fish, and on this service
horse-sledges are used. Nets are daily set in Pine Island Lake which
occasionally procure some fine sturgeon, tittameg, and trout, but not
more than sufficient to supply the officers' table.
_December 1_.--This day was so remarkably fine, that we procured another
set of observations for the dip of the needle in the open air; the
instrument being placed firmly on a rock, the results gave 83° 14'
22".{12} The change produced by reversing the face of the instrument,
was 12° 50' 55".
There had been a determined thaw during the last three days. The ice on
the Saskatchawan River and some parts of the lake, broke up, and the
travelling across either became dangerous. On this account the absence
of Wilks, one of our men, caused no small anxiety. He had incautiously
undertaken the conduct of a sledge and dogs, in company with a person,
going to Swampy River for fish. On their return, being unaccustomed to
driving, he became fatigued, and seated himself on his sledge, where his
companion left him, presuming that he would soon rise and hasten to
follow his track. He however returned safe in the morning, and reported
that, foreseeing night would set in before he could get across the lake,
he prudently retired into the woods before dark, where he remained until
day-light; when the men, who had been despatched to look for him, met
him returning to the house, shivering with cold, he having been
unprovided with the materials for lighting a fire; which an experienced
voyager never neglects to carry.
We had mild weather until the 20th of December. On the 13th there had
been a decided thaw, that caused the Saskatchawan, which had again
frozen, to re-open, and the passage across it was interrupted for two
days. We now received more agreeable accounts from the Indians, who were
recovering strength, and beginning to hunt a little; but it was
generally feared that their spirits had been so much depressed by the
loss of their children and relatives, that the season would be far
advanced before they could be roused to any exertion in searching for
animals beyond what might be necessary for their own support. It is much
to be regretted that these poor men, during their long intercourse with
Europeans, have not been taught how pernicious is the grief which
produces total inactivity, and that they have not been furnished with
any of the consolations which the Christian religion never fails to
afford. This, however, could hardly have been expected from persons who
have permitted their own offspring, the half-casts, to remain in
lamentable ignorance on a subject of such vital importance. It is
probable, however, that an improvement will soon take place among the
latter class, as Governor Williams proposes to make the children attend
a Sunday school, and has already begun to have divine service performed
at his post.
The conversations which I had with the gentlemen in charge of these
posts, convinced me of the necessity of proceeding during the winter
into the Athabasca department, the residents of which are best
acquainted with the nature and resources of the country to the north of
the Great Slave Lake; and whence only guides, hunters, and interpreters
can be procured. I had previously written to the partners of the
North-West Company in that quarter, requesting their assistance in
forwarding the Expedition, and stating what we should require. But, on
reflecting upon the accidents that might delay these letters on the
road, I determined on proceeding to the Athabasca as soon as I possibly
could, and communicated my intention to Governor Williams and Mr.
Connolly, with a request that I might be furnished, by the middle of
January, with the means of conveyance for three persons, intending that
Mr. Back and Hepburn should accompany me, whilst Dr. Richardson and Mr.
Hood remained till the spring at Cumberland House.
After the 20th of December the weather{13} became cold, the thermometer
constantly below zero. Christmas-day was particularly stormy; but the
gale did not prevent the full enjoyment of the festivities which are
annually given at Cumberland House on this day. All the men who had been
despatched to different parts in search of provision or furs returned to
the fort on the occasion, and were regaled with a substantial dinner and
a dance in the evening.
1820. Jan. 1.
The new year was ushered in by repeated discharges of musketry; a
ceremony which has been observed by the men of both the trading
Companies for many years. Our party dined with Mr. Connolly, and were
treated with a beaver, which we found extremely delicate. In the evening
his voyagers were entertained with a dance, in which the Canadians
exhibited some grace and much agility; and they contrived to infuse some
portion of their activity and spirits into the steps of their female
companions. The half-breed women are passionately fond of this
amusement, but a stranger would imagine the contrary on witnessing their
apparent want of animation. On such occasions they affect a sobriety of
demeanour which I understand to be very opposite to their general
character.
_January 10_.--This day I wrote to Governor Williams and Mr. Connolly,
requesting them to prepare two canoes, with crews and appointments, for
the conveyance of Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood, with our stores to
Chipewyan as soon as the navigation should open and had the
satisfaction of receiving from both these gentlemen renewed assurances
of their desire to promote the objects of the Expedition. I conceived it
to be necessary, previous to my departure, to make some arrangement
respecting the men who were engaged at Stromness. Only one of them was
disposed to extend his engagement, and proceed beyond the Athabasca
Lake; and, as there was much uncertainty whether the remaining three
could get from the Athabasca to York Factory sufficiently early to
secure them a passage in the next Hudson's Bay ship, I resolved not to
take them forward, unless Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood should fail in
procuring other men from these establishments next spring, but to
despatch them down to York to bring up our stores to this place: after
which they might return to the coast in time to secure their passage in
the first ship.
I delivered to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood a memorandum, containing the
arrangements which had been made with the two Companies, respecting
their being forwarded in the spring, and some other points of
instruction for their guidance in my absence; together with directions
to forward the map of our route which had been finished, since our
arrival, by Mr. Hood, the drawings and the collections of natural
history, by the first opportunity to York Factory, for conveyance to
England[3].
[3] As Samuel Wilks, who had accompanied the Expedition from England,
proved to be quite unequal to the fatigue of the journey, I
directed him to be discharged in the spring, and sent to England
by the next ship.
The houses of the two Companies, at this post are situated close to each
other, at the upper extremity of a narrow island, which separates Pine
Island Lake from the Saskatchawan River, and are about two miles and
three quarters from the latter in a northern direction. They are
log-houses, built without much regard to comfort, surrounded by lofty
stockades, and flanked with wooden bastions. The difficulty of conveying
glass into the interior has precluded its use in the windows, where its
place is poorly supplied by parchment, imperfectly made by the native
women from the skin of the rein-deer. Should this post, however,
continue to be the residence of Governor Williams, it will be much
improved in a few years, as he is devoting his attention to that point.
The land around Cumberland House is low, but the soil, from having a
considerable intermixture of limestone, is good, and capable of
producing abundance of corn, and vegetables of every description. Many
kinds of pot-herbs have already been brought to some perfection, and
the potatoes bid fair to equal those of England. The spontaneous
productions of nature would afford ample nourishment for all the
European animals. Horses feed extremely well even during the winter, and
so would oxen if provided with hay, which might be easily done[4]. Pigs
also improve, but require to be kept warm in the winter. Hence it
appears, that the residents might easily render themselves far less
dependent{14} on the Indians for support, and be relieved from the great
anxiety which they too often suffer when the hunters are unsuccessful.
The neighbourhood of the houses has been much cleared of wood, from the
great demand for fuel; there is, therefore, little to admire in the
surrounding scenery, especially in its winter garb; few animated objects
occur to enliven the scene; an occasional fox, marten, rabbit, or wolf,
and a few birds, contribute the only variety. The birds which remained
were ravens, magpies, partridges, cross bills, and woodpeckers. In this
universal stillness, the residents at a post feel little disposed to
wander abroad, except when called forth by their occupations; and as
ours were of a kind best performed in a warm room, we imperceptibly
acquired a sedentary habit. In going out, however, we never suffered the
slightest inconvenience from the change of temperature, though the
thermometer, in the open air, stood occasionally thirty degrees below
zero.
[4] "The wild buffalo scrapes away the snow with its feet to get at
the herbage beneath, and the horse, which was introduced by the
Spanish invaders of Mexico, and may be said to have become
naturalized, does the same; but it is worthy of remark, that the
ox more lately brought from Europe, has not yet acquired an art so
necessary for procuring its food."--(Extract from Dr. Richardson's
Journal.)
The tribe of Indians, who reside in the vicinity, and frequent these
establishments, is that of the Crees, or Knisteneaux. They were formerly
a powerful and numerous nation, which ranged over a very extensive
country, and were very successful in their predatory excursions against
their neighbours, particularly the northern Indians, and some tribes on
the Saskatchawan and Beaver Rivers; but they have long ceased to be held
in any fear, and are now perhaps, the most harmless and inoffensive of
the whole Indian race. This change is entirely to be attributed to their
intercourse with Europeans; and the vast reduction in their numbers
occasioned, I fear, principally, by the injudicious introduction of
ardent spirits. They are so passionately fond of this poison, that they
will make any sacrifice to obtain it. They are good hunters, and in
general active. Having laid the bow and arrow altogether aside, and the
use of snares, except for rabbits and partridges, they depend entirely
on the Europeans for the means of gaining subsistence, as they require
guns, and a constant supply of powder and shot; so that these Indians
are probably more completely under the power of the trader than any of
the other tribes. As I only saw a few straggling parties of them during
short intervals, and under unfavourable circumstances of sickness and
famine, I am unable to give, from personal observation, any detail of
their manners and customs; and must refer the reader, to Dr.
Richardson's account of them, in the following chapter. That gentleman,
during his longer residence at the post, had many opportunities of
seeing them, and acquiring their language.
_January 17_.--This morning the sporting part of our society had rather
a novel diversion: intelligence having been brought that a wolf had
borne away a steel trap, in which he had been caught, a party went in
search of the marauder, and took two English bull dogs and a terrier,
which had been brought into the country this season. On the first sight
of the animal the dogs became alarmed, and stood barking at a distance,
and probably would not have ventured to advance, had they not seen the
wolf fall by a shot from one of the gentlemen; they then, however, went
up, and behaved courageously, and were enraged by the bites they
received. The wolf soon died of its wounds, and the body was brought to
the house, where a drawing of it was taken by Mr. Hood, and the skin
preserved by Dr. Richardson. Its general features bore a strong
resemblance to many of the dogs about the fort, but it was larger and
had a more ferocious aspect. Mr. Back and I were too much occupied in
preparing for our departure on the following day to join this excursion.
The position of Cumberland House, by our observations, is, latitude 53°
56' 40" N.; longitude 102° 16' 41" W., by the chronometers; variations
17° 17' 29" E.; dip of the needle, 83° 12' 50". The whole of the
travelling distance between York Factory and Cumberland House is about
six hundred and ninety miles.