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Transcriber's notes:
There are several inconsistencies in spelling and punctuation in the
original. Some corrections have been made for obvious typographical
errors; they have been noted individually in the text. All changes made
by the transcriber are enumerated in braces, for example {1}; details of
corrections and comments are listed at the end of the text. Note that
many of the errors were introduced in the third edition, as
cross-referencing the second edition has shown.
In the original, the "Mc" in Scottish names is given as "M" followed by
what looks like a left single quotation mark (Unicode 2018). This has
been changed to "Mc" throughout the text; note that the original also
contains a few apparently inconsistent uses of "Mac", which have been
retained.
Specific spellings that differ from their modern versions and have been
retained in this text are "Saskatchawan" (modern "Saskatchewan"),
"Winipeg" (modern "Winnipeg"), "Esquimaux" (modern "Eskimo") and
"musquito" (with one instance of "moscheto", modern "mosquito").
Text in italics in the original is shown between _underlines_. For this
text version, the oe-ligature (Unicode 0153) has been rendered as "oe".
Footnote 14 in chapter IV contains two transliterations, where [=a]
represents Latin small letter a with macron (Unicode 0101) and [=o]
stands for Latin small letter o with macron (Unicode 014D).
* * * * *
NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY
TO THE SHORES OF THE
POLAR SEA,
IN
THE YEARS 1819-20-21-22.
BY
JOHN FRANKLIN, CAPT. R.N., F.R.S., M.W.S.,
AND COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.
PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL BATHURST.
THIRD EDITION.
TWO VOLS.--VOL. I.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
MDCCCXXIV{1}.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES,
Northumberland-court.
[Illustration: The Connected Discoveries of Captains
Ross, Parry, and Franklin in the years 1818, 19, 20, 21, 22 & 23.]
TO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
THE EARL BATHURST, K.G.,
ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES OF STATE,
&c. &c. &c.
THE FOLLOWING
NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY TO THE NORTHERN COAST OF AMERICA,
UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER AND UNDER THE AUSPICES OF
HIS LORDSHIP,
IS BY PERMISSION, INSCRIBED
WITH GREAT RESPECT AND GRATITUDE
BY
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
Page
INTRODUCTION ix
CHAPTER I.
Departure from England--Transactions at Stromness--Enter
Davis' Straits--Perilous situation on the shore of Resolution
Island--Land on the coast of Labrador--Esquimaux of Savage
Islands--York Factory--Preparations for the Journey into the
Interior 1
CHAPTER II.
Passage up Hayes', Steel, and Hill Rivers--Cross Swampy
Lake--Jack River--Knee Lake, and Magnetic Islet--Trout
River--Holy Lake{2}--Weepinapannis River--Windy Lake--White
Fall Lake and River--Echemamis and Sea Rivers--Play-Green
Lakes--Lake Winipeg--River Saskatchawan--Cross, Cedar, and
Pine Island Lakes--Cumberland House 41
CHAPTER III.
Dr. Richardson's residence at Cumberland-House--His account
of the Cree Indians 91
CHAPTER IV.
Leave Cumberland House--Mode of Travelling in Winter--Arrival
at Carlton House--Stone Indians--Visit to a Buffalo
Pound--Goitres--Departure from Carlton House--Isle à{3} la
Crosse--Arrival at Fort Chipewyan 146
CHAPTER V.
Transactions at Fort Chipewyan--Arrival of Dr. Richardson
and Mr. Hood--Preparations for our Journey to the Northward 221
CHAPTER VI.
Mr. Hood's Journey to the Basquiau Hill--Sojourns with an
Indian Party--His Journey to Chipewyan 260
CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Chipewyan--Difficulties of the various
Navigation of the Rivers and Lakes, and of the
Portages--Slave Lake and Fort Providence--Scarcity of
Provisions, and Discontent of the Canadian
Voyagers--Difficulties with regard to the Indian
Guides--Refusal to proceed--Visit of Observation to the
upper part of Copper-Mine River--Return to the
Winter-Quarters of Fort Enterprise 301
* * * * *
_Directions to the Binder._
VOL. I.
I. The CHART shewing the Connected Discoveries of Captains Ross, Parry,
and Franklin, to face the _Title-Page_.
VOL. II.
II. Route from York Factory }
III. Isle à la Crosse } To be placed at the end.
IV. Slave Lake }
INTRODUCTION.
His Majesty's Government having determined upon sending an Expedition
from the Shores of Hudson's Bay by land, to explore the Northern Coast
of America, from the Mouth of the Copper-Mine River to the eastward, I
had the honour to be appointed to this service by Earl Bathurst, on the
recommendation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty; who, at the
same time, nominated Doctor John Richardson, a Surgeon in the Royal
Navy, Mr. George Back, and Mr. Robert Hood, two Admiralty Midshipmen, to
be joined with me in the enterprize. My instructions, in substance,
informed me that the main object of the Expedition was that of
determining the latitudes and longitudes of the Northern Coast of North
America, and the trending of that Coast from the Mouth of the
Copper-Mine River to the eastern extremity of that Continent; that it
was left for me to determine according to circumstances, whether it
might be most advisable to proceed, at once, directly to the northward
till I arrived at the sea-coast, and thence westerly towards the
Copper-Mine River; or advance, in the first instance, by the usual route
to the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, and from thence easterly till I
should arrive at the eastern extremity of that Continent; that, in the
adoption of either of these plans, I was to be guided by the advice and
information which I should receive from the wintering servants of the
Hudson's Bay Company, who would be instructed by their employers to
co-operate cordially in the prosecution of the objects of the
Expedition, and who would provide me with the necessary escort of
Indians to act as guides, interpreters, game-killers, &c.; and also with
such articles of clothing, ammunition, snow-shoes, presents, &c., as
should be deemed expedient for me to take. That as another principal
object of the Expedition was to amend the very defective geography of
the northern part of North America, I was to be very careful to
ascertain correctly the latitude and longitude of every remarkable spot
upon our route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers, headlands, &c.,
that might occur along the Northern Shore of North America. That in
proceeding along the coast, I should erect conspicuous marks at places
where ships might enter, or to which a boat could be sent; and to
deposit information as to the nature of the coast for the use of
Lieutenant Parry. That in the journal of our route, I should register
the temperature of the air at least three times in every twenty-four
hours; together with the state of the wind and weather, and any other
meteorological phenomena. That I should not neglect any opportunity of
observing and noting down the dip and variation of the magnetic needle,
and the intensity of the magnetic force; and should take particular
notice whether any, and what kind or degree of, influence the Aurora
Borealis might appear to exert on the magnetic needle; and to notice
whether that phenomenon were attended with any noise; and to make any
other observations that might be likely to tend to the further
development of its cause, and the laws by which it is governed.
Mr. Back and Mr. Hood were to assist me in all the observations
above-mentioned, and to make drawings of the land, of the natives, and
of the various objects of natural history; and, particularly, of such as
Dr. Richardson, who, to his professional duties, was to add that of
naturalist, might consider to be most curious and interesting.
I was instructed, on my arrival at, or near, the Mouth of the
Copper-Mine River, to make every inquiry as to the situation of the spot
whence native copper had been brought down by the Indians to the
Hudson's Bay establishment, and to visit and explore the place in
question; in order that Dr. Richardson might be enabled to make such
observations as might be useful in a commercial point of view, or
interesting to the science of mineralogy.
From Joseph Berens, Esq., the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and
the gentlemen of the Committee, I received all kinds of assistance and
information, communicated in the most friendly manner previous to my
leaving England; and I had the gratification of perusing the orders to
their agents and servants in North America, containing the fullest
directions to promote, by every means, the progress of the Expedition. I
most cheerfully avail myself of this opportunity of expressing my
gratitude to these Gentlemen for their personal kindness to myself and
the other officers, as well as for the benefits rendered by them to the
Expedition; and the same sentiment is due towards the Gentlemen of the
North-West Company, both in England and America, more particularly to
Simon McGillivray, Esq., of London, from whom I received much useful
information, and cordial letters of recommendation to the partners and
agents of that Company, resident on our line of route.
A short time before I left London I had the pleasure and advantage of an
interview with the late Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who was one of the two
persons who had visited the coast we were to explore. He afforded me, in
the most open and kind manner, much valuable information and advice.
The provisions, instruments, and other articles, of which I had
furnished a list, by direction of the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, were embarked on board the Hudson's Bay Company's ship Prince
of Wales, appointed by the committee to convey the Expedition to York
Factory, their principal establishment in Hudson's Bay.
It will be seen, in the course of the Narrative how much reason I had to
be satisfied with, and how great my obligations are to, all the
Gentlemen who were associated with me in the Expedition, whose kindness,
good conduct, and cordial co-operation, have made an impression which
can never be effaced from my mind. The unfortunate death of Mr. Hood is
the only drawback which I feel from the otherwise unalloyed pleasure of
reflecting on that cordial unanimity which at all times prevailed among
us in the days of sunshine, and in those of "sickness and sorrow."
To Dr. Richardson, in particular, the exclusive merit is due of whatever
collections and observations have been made in the department of Natural
History; and I am indebted to him in no small degree for his friendly
advice and assistance in the preparation of the present narrative.
The charts and drawings were made by Lieutenant Back, and the late
Lieutenant Hood. Both these gentlemen cheerfully and ably assisted me in
making the observations and in the daily conduct of the Expedition. The
observations made by Mr. Hood, on the various phenomena presented by the
Aurora Borealis[1], will, it is presumed, present to the reader some new
facts connected with this meteor. Mr. Back was mostly prevented from
turning his attention to objects of science by the many severe duties
which were required of him, and which obliged him to travel almost
constantly every winter that we passed in America; to his personal
exertions, indeed, our final safety is mainly to be attributed. And here
I must be permitted to pay the tribute, due to the fidelity, exertion
and uniform good conduct in the most trying situations, of John Hepburn,
an English seaman, and our only attendant, to whom in the latter part of
our journey we owe, under Divine Providence, the preservation of the
lives of some of the party.
[1] Given in the Appendix to the Quarto Edition.
I ought, perhaps, to crave the reader's indulgence towards the defective
style of this work, which I trust will not be refused when it is
considered that mine has been a life of constant employment in my
profession from a very early age. I have been prompted to venture upon
the task solely by an imperious sense of duty, when called upon to
undertake it.
In the ensuing Narrative the notices of the moral condition of the
Indians as influenced by the conduct of the traders towards them, refer
entirely to the state in which it existed during our progress through
the country; but lest I should have been mistaken respecting the views
of the Hudson's Bay Company on these points, I gladly embrace the
opportunity which a Second Edition affords me of stating that the
junction of the two Companies has enabled the Directors to put in
practice the improvements which I have reason to believe they had long
contemplated. They have provided for religious instruction by the
appointment of two Clergymen of the established church, under whose
direction school-masters and mistresses are to be placed at such
stations as afford the means of support for the establishment of
schools. The offspring of the voyagers and labourers are to be educated
chiefly at the expense of the Company; and such of the Indian children
as their parents may wish to send to these schools, are to be
instructed, clothed, and maintained at the expense of the Church
Missionary Society, which has already allotted a considerable sum for
these purposes, and has also sent out teachers who are to act under the
superintendence of the Rev. Mr. West, the principal chaplain of the
Company.
We had the pleasure of meeting this gentleman at York Factory, and
witnessed with peculiar delight the great benefit which already marked
his zealous and judicious conduct. Many of the traders, and of the
servants of the Company, had been induced to marry the women with whom
they had cohabited; a material step towards the improvement of the
females in that country.
Mr. West, under the sanction of the Directors, has also promoted a
subscription for the distribution of the Bible in every part of the
country where the Company's Fur Trade has extended, and which has met
with very general support from the resident chief factors, traders, and
clerks. The Directors of the Company are continuing to reduce the
distribution of spirits gradually among the Indians, as well as towards
their own servants, with a view to the entire disuse of them as soon as
this most desirable object can be accomplished. They have likewise
issued orders for the cultivation of the ground at each of the posts, by
which means the residents will be far less exposed to famine whenever
through the scarcity of animals, the sickness of the Indians, or any
other cause, their supply of meat may fail.
It is to be hoped that intentions, so dear to every humane and pious
mind, will, through the blessing of God, meet with the utmost success.
JOURNEY TO THE SHORES
OF
THE POLAR SEA.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
Departure from England--Transactions at Stromness--Enter Davis'
Straits--Perilous Situation on the Shore of Resolution Island--Land
on the Coast of Labrador--Esquimaux of Savage Islands--York
Factory--Preparations for the Journey into the Interior.
1819. May.
On Sunday, the 23d of May, the whole of our party embarked at Gravesend
on board the ship Prince of Wales, belonging to the Hudson's Bay
Company, just as she was in the act of getting under weigh, with her
consorts the Eddystone and Wear. The wind being unfavourable, on the ebb
tide being finished, the vessels were again anchored; but they weighed
in the night and beat down as far as the Warp, where they were detained
two days by a strong easterly wind.
Having learned from some of the passengers, who were the trading
Officers of the Company, that the arrival of the ships at either of the
establishments in Hudson's Bay, gives full occupation to all the
boatmen in their service, who are required to convey the necessary
stores to the different posts in the interior; that it was very probable
a sufficient number of men might not be procured from this indispensable
duty; and, considering that any delay at York Factory would materially
retard our future operations, I wrote to the Under Secretary of State,
requesting his permission to provide a few well-qualified steersmen and
bowmen, at Stromness, to assist our proceedings in the former part of
our journey into the interior.
_May 30_.--The easterly wind, which had retarded the ship's progress so
much, that we had only reached Hollesley Bay after a week's beating
about, changed to W.S.W. soon after that anchorage had been gained. The
vessels instantly weighed, and, by carrying all sail, arrived in
Yarmouth Roads at seven P.M.; the pilots were landed, and our course was
continued through the anchorage. At midnight, the wind became light and
variable, and gradually drew round to the N.W.; and, as the sky
indicated unsettled weather, and the wind blew from an unfavourable
quarter for ships upon that coast, the commander bore up again for
Yarmouth, and anchored at eight A.M.
This return afforded us, at least, the opportunity of comparing the
longitude of Yarmouth church, as shewn by our chronometers, with its
position as laid down by the Ordnance Trigonometrical Survey; and, it
was satisfactory to find, from the small difference in their results,
that the chronometers had not experienced any alteration in their rates,
in consequence of their being changed from an horizontal position in a
room, to that of being carried in the pocket.
An untoward circumstance, while at this anchorage, cast a damp on our
party at this early period of the voyage. Emboldened by the decided
appearance of the N.W. sky, several of our officers and passengers
ventured on shore for a few hours; but, we had not been long in the town
before the wind changed suddenly to S.E., which caused instant motion in
the large fleet collected at this anchorage. The commander of our ship
intimated his intention of proceeding to sea, by firing guns; and the
passengers hastened to embark. Mr. Back, however, had unfortunately gone
upon some business to a house two or three miles distant from Yarmouth,
along the line of the coast; from whence he expected to be able to
observe the first symptoms of moving, which the vessels might make. By
some accident, however, he did not make his appearance before the
captain was obliged to make sail, that he might get the ships through
the intricate passage of the Cockle Gat before it was dark. Fortunately,
through the kindness of Lieutenant Hewit, of the Protector, I was
enabled to convey a note to our missing companion, desiring him to
proceed immediately by the coach to the Pentland Firth, and from thence
across the passage to Stromness, which appeared to be the only way of
proceeding by which he could rejoin the party.
_June 3_.--The wind continuing favourable after leaving Yarmouth, about
nine this morning we passed the rugged and bold projecting rock, termed
Johnny Groat's house, and soon afterwards Duncansby Head, and then
entered the Pentland Firth. A pilot came from the main shore of
Scotland, and steered the ship in safety between the different islands,
to the outer anchorage at Stromness, though the atmosphere was too dense
for distinguishing any of the objects on the land. Almost immediately
after the ship had anchored, the wind changed to N.W., the rain ceased,
and a sight was then first obtained of the neighbouring islands, and of
the town of Stromness, the latter of which, from this point of view, and
at this distance, presented a pleasing appearance.
Mr. Geddes, the agent of the Hudson's Bay Company at this place,
undertook to communicate my wish for volunteer boatmen to the different
parishes, by a notice on the church-door, which he said was the surest
and most direct channel for the conveyance of information to the lower
classes in these islands, as they invariably attend divine service there
every Sunday. He informed me that the kind of men we were in want of
would be difficult to procure, on account of the very increased demand
for boatmen for the herring fishery, which had recently been established
on the shores of these islands; that last year, sixty boats and four
hundred men only were employed in this service, whereas now there were
three hundred boats and twelve hundred men engaged; and that owing to
this unexpected addition to the fishery, he had been unable to provide
the number of persons required for the service of the Hudson's Bay
Company. This was unpleasant information, as it increased the
apprehension of our being detained at York Factory the whole winter, if
boatmen were not taken from hence. I could not therefore hesitate in
requesting Mr. Geddes to engage eight or ten men well adapted for our
service, on such terms as he could procure them, though the Secretary of
State's permission had not yet reached me.
Next to a supply of boatmen, our attention was directed towards the
procuring of a house conveniently situated for trying the instruments,
and examining the rates of the chronometers. Mr. Geddes kindly offered
one of his, which, though in an unfinished state, was readily accepted,
being well situated for our purpose, as it was placed on an eminence,
had a southern aspect, and was at a sufficient distance from the town to
secure us from frequent interruption. Another advantage was its
proximity to the Manse, the residence of the Rev. Mr. Clouston, the
worthy and highly respected minister of Stromness; whose kind
hospitality and the polite attention of his family, the party
experienced almost daily during their stay.
For three days the weather was unsettled, and few observations could be
made, except for the dip of the needle, which was ascertained to be 74°
37' 48", on which occasion a difference of eight degrees and a half was
perceived between the observations, when the face of the instrument was
changed from the east to the west, the amount being the greatest when it
was placed with the face to the west. But, on the 8th, a westerly wind
caused a cloudless sky, which enabled us to place the transit instrument
in the meridian, and to ascertain the variation of the compass, to be
27° 50' west. The sky becoming cloudy in the afternoon, prevented our
obtaining the corresponding observations to those gained in the morning;
and the next day an impervious fog obscured the sky until noon. On the
evening of this day, we had the gratification of welcoming our absent
companion, Mr. Back. His return to our society was hailed with sincere
pleasure by every one, and removed a weight of anxiety from my mind. It
appears that he had come down to the beach at Caistor, just as the ships
were passing by, and had applied to some boatmen to convey him on board,
which might have been soon accomplished, but they, discovering the
emergency of his case, demanded an exorbitant reward which he was not at
the instant prepared to satisfy; and, in consequence, they positively
refused to assist him. Though he had travelled nine successive days,
almost without rest, he could not be prevailed upon to withdraw from the
agreeable scene of a ball-room, in which he joined us, until a late
hour.
On the 10th, the rain having ceased, the observations for ascertaining
the dip of the needle were repeated; and the results, compared with the
former ones, gave a mean of 74° 33' 20". Nearly the same differences
were remarked in reversing the face of the instrument as before. An
attempt was also made to ascertain the magnetic force, but the wind
blew too strong for procuring the observation to any degree of accuracy.
The fineness of the following day induced us to set up the different
instruments for examination, and to try how nearly the observations made
by each of them would agree; but a squall passed over just before noon,
accompanied by heavy rain, and the hoped-for favourable opportunity was
entirely lost. In the intervals between the observations, and at every
opportunity, my companions were occupied in those pursuits to which
their attention had been more particularly directed in my instructions.
Whilst Dr. Richardson was collecting and examining the various specimens
of marine plants, of which these islands furnish an abundant and
diversified supply, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood took views and sketches of the
surrounding scenery, which is extremely picturesque in many parts, and
wants only the addition of trees to make it beautiful. The hills present
the bold character of rugged sterility, whilst the valleys, at this
season, are clothed with luxuriant verdure.
It was not till the 14th, that, by appointment, the boatmen were to
assemble at the house of Mr. Geddes, to engage to accompany the
Expedition. Several persons collected, but to my great mortification, I
found they were all so strongly possessed with the fearful apprehension,
either that great danger would attend the service, or that we should
carry them further than they would agree to go, that not a single man
would engage with us; some of them, however, said they would consider
the subject, and give me an answer on the following day. This indecisive
conduct was extremely annoying to me, especially as the next evening was
fixed for the departure of the ships.
At the appointed time on the following morning, four men only presented
themselves, and these, after much hesitation, engaged to accompany the
Expedition to Fort Chipewyan, if they should be required so far. The
bowmen and steersmen were to receive forty pounds' wages annually, and
the middle men thirty-five pounds. They stipulated to be sent back to
the Orkney Islands, free of expense, and to receive their pay until the
time of arrival. Only these few men could be procured, although our
requisition had been sent to almost every island, even as far as the
northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was much amused with the extreme
caution these men used before they would sign the agreement; they
minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed every circumstance, looked
narrowly into the plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to
the prospect of return. Such caution on the part of the northern
mariners forms a singular contrast with the ready and thoughtless manner
in which an English seaman enters upon any enterprise, however
hazardous, without inquiring, or desiring to know where he is going, or
what he is going about.
The brig Harmony, belonging to the Moravian Missionary Society, and
bound to their settlement at Nain, on the coast of Labrador, was lying
at anchor. With the view of collecting some Esquimaux words and
sentences, or gaining any information respecting the manners and habits
of that people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her a visit. We found
the passengers, who were going out as Missionaries, extremely disposed
to communicate; but as they only spoke the German and Esquimaux
languages, of which we were ignorant, our conversation was necessarily
much confined: by the aid, however, of an Esquimaux and German
Dictionary, some few words were collected, which we considered might be
useful. There were on board a very interesting girl, and a young man,
who were natives of Disco, in Old Greenland; both of them had fair
complexions, rather handsome features, and a lively manner; the former
was going to be married to a resident Missionary, and the latter to
officiate in that character. The commander of the vessel gave me a
translation of the Gospel of St. John in the Esquimaux language, printed
by the Moravian Society in London.
_June 16_.--The wind being unfavourable for sailing I went on shore with
Dr. Richardson, and took several lunar observations at the place of our
former residence. The result obtained was latitude 58° 56' 56"{4} N.;
longitude 3° 17' 55" W.; variation 27° 50' W.; dip of the magnetic
needle, 74° 33' 20". In the afternoon the wind changed in a squall some
points towards the north, and the Prince of Wales made the preparatory
signal for sea. At three P.M. the ships weighed, an hour too early for
the tide; as soon as this served we entered into the passage between Hoy
and Pomona, and had to beat through against a very heavy swell, which
the meeting of a weather tide and a strong breeze had occasioned.
Some dangerous rocks lie near the Pomona shore, and on this side also
the tide appeared to run with the greatest strength. On clearing the
outward projecting points of Hoy and Pomona, we entered at once into the
Atlantic, and commenced our voyage to Hudson's Bay--having the
Eddystone, Wear, and Harmony, Missionary brig, in company.
The comparisons of the chronometers this day indicated that Arnold's
Nos. 2148 and 2147, had slightly changed their rates since they had been
brought on board; fortunately the rate of the former seems to have
increased nearly in the same ratio as the other has lost, and the mean
longitude will not be materially affected.
Being now fairly launched into the Atlantic, I issued a general
memorandum for the guidance of the officers during the prosecution of
the service on which we were engaged, and communicated to them the
several points of information that were expected from us by my
instructions. I also furnished them with copies of the signals which had
been agreed upon between Lieutenant Parry and myself, to be used in the
event of our reaching the northern coast of America, and falling in with
each other.
At the end of the month of June, our progress was found to have been
extremely slow, owing to a determined N.W. wind and much sea. We had
numerous birds hovering round the ship; principally fulmars
(_procellaria glacialis_,) and shearwaters, (_procellaria puffinus_,)
and not unfrequently saw shoals of grampusses sporting about, which the
Greenland seamen term finners from their large dorsal fin. Some
porpoises occasionally appeared, and whenever they did, the crew were
sanguine in their expectation of having a speedy change in the wind,
which had been so vexatiously contrary, but they were disappointed in
every instance.
_Thursday, July 1_.--The month of July set in more favourably; and,
aided by fresh breezes, we advanced rapidly to the westward, attended
daily by numerous fulmars and shearwaters. The Missionary brig had
parted company on the 22d of June. We passed directly over that part of
the ocean where the "Sunken Land of Buss" is laid down in the old, and
continued in the Admiralty charts. Mr. Bell, the commander of the
Eddystone, informed me, that the pilot who brought his ship down the
Thames told him that he had gained soundings in twelve feet somewhere
hereabout; and I am rather inclined to attribute the very unusual and
cross sea we had in this neighbourhood to the existence of a bank, than
to the effect of a gale of wind which we had just before experienced;
and I cannot but regret that the commander of the ship did not try for
soundings at frequent intervals.
By the 25th July we had opened the entrance of Davis' Straits, and in
the afternoon spoke the Andrew Marvell, bound to England with a cargo of
fourteen fish. The master informed us that the ice had been heavier this
season in Davis' Straits than he had ever recollected, and that it lay
particularly close to the westward, being connected with the shore to
the northward of Resolution Island, and extending from thence within a
short distance of the Greenland coast; that whales had been abundant,
but the ice so extremely cross, that few could be killed. His ship, as
well as several others, had suffered material injury, and two vessels
had been entirely crushed between vast masses of ice in latitude 74° 40'
N., but the crews were saved. We inquired anxiously, but in vain, for
intelligence respecting Lieutenant Parry, and the ships under his
command; but as he mentioned that the wind had been blowing strong from
the northward for some time, which would, probably, have cleared
Baffin's Bay of ice, we were disposed to hope favourably of his
progress.
The clouds assumed so much the appearance of icebergs this evening, as
to deceive most of the passengers and crew; but their imaginations had
been excited by the intelligence we had received from the Andrew
Marvell, that she had only parted from a cluster of them two days
previous to our meetings.
On the 27th, being in latitude 57° 44' 21" N., longitude 47° 31' 14" W.,
and the weather calm we tried for soundings, but did not reach the
bottom. The register thermometer was attached to the line just above
the lead, and is supposed to have descended six hundred and fifty
fathoms. A well-corked bottle was also fastened to the line, two hundred
fathoms above the lead, and went down four hundred and fifty fathoms.
The change in temperature, shewn by the register thermometer during the
descent, was from 52° to 40.5; and it stood at the latter point, when
taken out of the tin case. The temperature of the water brought up in
the bottle was 41°, being half a degree higher at four hundred and fifty
than at six hundred and fifty fathoms, and four degrees colder than the
water at the surface, which was then at 45°, whilst that of the air was
46°. This experiment in shewing the water to be colder at a great depth
than at the surface, and in proportion to the increase of the descent,
coincides with the observations of Captain Ross and Lieutenant Parry, on
their late voyage to these seas, but is contrary to the results obtained
by Captain Buchan and myself, on our recent voyage to the north, between
Spitzbergen and Greenland, in which sea we invariably found the water
brought from any great depth to be warmer than that at the surface.
On the 28th we tacked, to avoid an extensive stream of sailing ice. The
temperature of the water fell to 39.5°{5}, when we were near it, but was
at 41°, when at the distance of half a mile. The thermometer in the air
remained steadily at 40°. Thus the proximity of this ice was not so
decidedly indicated by the decrease of the temperature of either the air
or water, as I have before witnessed, which was probably owing to the
recent arrival of the stream at this point, and its passing at too quick
a rate for the effectual diffusion of its chilling influence beyond a
short distance. Still the decrease in both cases was sufficient to have
given timely warning for a ship's performing any evolution that would
have prevented the coming in contact with it, had the thickness of the
weather precluded a distant view of the danger.
The approach to ice would be more evidently pointed out in the Atlantic,
or wherever the surface is not so continually chilled by the passing and
the melting of ice as in this sea; and I should strongly recommend a
strict hourly attention to the thermometrical state of the water at the
surface, in all parts where ships are exposed to the dangerous
concussion of sailing icebergs, as a principal means of security.
The following day our ship came near another stream of ice, and the
approach to it was indicated by a decrease of the temperature of the
water at the surface from 44° to 42°. A small pine-tree was picked up
much shattered by the ice. In the afternoon of the 30th, a very dense
fog came on; and, about six P.M., when sailing before a fresh breeze, we
were suddenly involved in a heavy stream of ice. Considerable difficulty
was experienced in steering through the narrow channels between the
different masses in this foggy weather, and the ship received several
severe blows.
The water, as usual in the centre of the stream, was quite smooth, but
we heard the waves beating violently against the outer edge of the ice.
There was some earthy matter on several of the pieces, and the whole
body bore the appearance of recent separation from the land. In the
space of two hours we again got into the open sea, but had left our two
consorts far behind; they followed our track by the guns we discharged.
The temperature of the surface water was 35° when amongst the ice, 38°
when just clear of it, and 41.5° at two miles distant.
On the 4th of August, when in latitude 59° 58' N., longitude 59° 53' W.,
we first fell in with large icebergs; and in the evening were
encompassed by several of considerable magnitude, which obliged us to
tack the ship in order to prevent our getting entangled amongst them.
The estimated distance from the nearest part of the Labrador coast was
then eighty-eight miles; here we tried for soundings, without gaining
the bottom. The ship passed through some strong riplings, which
evidently indicated a current, but its direction was not ascertained. We
found, however, by the recent observations, that the ship had been set
daily to the southward, since we had opened Davis' Straits. The
variation of the compass was observed to be 52° 41' W.
At nine P.M., brilliant coruscations of the Aurora Borealis appeared, of
a pale ochre colour, with a slight tinge of red, in an arched form,
crossing the zenith from N.W. to S.E., but afterwards they assumed
various shapes, and had a rapid motion.
On the 5th of August, a party of the officers endeavoured to get on one
of the larger icebergs, but ineffectually, owing to the steepness and
smoothness of its sides, and the swell produced by its undulating
motion. This was one of the largest we saw, and Mr. Hood ascertained its
height to be one hundred and forty-nine feet; but these masses of ice
are frequently magnified to an immense size, through the illusive medium
of a hazy atmosphere, and on this account their dimensions have often
been exaggerated by voyagers.
In the morning of the 7th, the Island of Resolution was indistinctly
seen through the haze, but was soon afterwards entirely hidden by a very
dense fog. The favourable breeze subsided into a perfect calm, and left
the ship surrounded by loose ice. At this time the Eddystone was
perceived to be driving with rapidity towards some of the larger masses;
the stern-boats of this ship and of the Wear were despatched to assist
in towing her clear of them. At ten, a momentary clearness presented the
land distinctly at the distance of two miles; the ship was quite
unmanageable, and under the sole governance of the currents, which ran
in strong eddies between the masses of ice. Our consorts were also seen,
the Wear being within hail, and the Eddystone at a short distance from
us. Two attempts were ineffectually made to gain soundings, and the
extreme density of the fog precluded us from any other means of
ascertaining the direction in which we were driving until half past
twelve, when we had the alarming view of a barren rugged shore within a
few yards, towering over the mast heads. Almost instantly afterwards the
ship struck violently on a point of rocks, projecting from the island;
and the ship's side was brought so near to the shore, that poles were
prepared to push her off. This blow displaced the rudder, and raised it
several inches, but it fortunately had been previously confined by
tackles. A gentle swell freed the ship from this perilous situation, but
the current hurried us along in contact with the rocky shore, and the
prospect was most alarming. On the outward bow was perceived a rugged
and precipitous cliff, whose summit was hid in the fog, and the Vessel's
head was pointed towards the bottom of a small bay, into which we were
rapidly driving. There now seemed to be no probability of escaping
shipwreck, being without wind, and having the rudder in its present
useless state; the only assistance was that of a boat employed in
towing, which had been placed in the water between the ship and the
shore, at the imminent risk of its being crushed. The ship again struck
in passing over a ledge of rocks, and happily the blow replaced the
rudder, which enabled us to take advantage of a light breeze, and to
direct the ship's head without the projecting cliff. But the breeze was
only momentary, and the ship was a third time driven on shore on the
rocky termination of the cliff. Here we remained stationary for some
seconds, and with little prospect of being removed from this perilous
situation; but we were once more extricated by the swell from this ledge
also, and carried still farther along the shore. The coast became now
more rugged, and our view of it was terminated by another high
projecting point on the starboard bow. Happily, before we had reached
it, a light breeze enabled us to turn the ship's head to seaward, and we
had the gratification to find, when the sails were trimmed, that she
drew off the shore. We had made but little progress, however, when she
was violently forced by the current against a large iceberg lying
aground.
Our prospect was now more alarming than at any preceding period; and it
would be difficult for me to portray the anxiety and dismay depicted on
the countenances of the female passengers and children, who were rushing
on deck in spite of the endeavours of the officers to keep them below,
out of the danger which was apprehended if the masts should be carried
away. After the first concussion, the ship was driven along the steep
and rugged side of this iceberg with such amazing rapidity, that the
destruction of the masts seemed inevitable, and every one expected we
should again be forced on the rocks in the most disabled state; but we
providentially escaped this perilous result, which must have been
decisive.
The dense fog now cleared away for a short time, and we discovered the
Eddystone close to some rocks, having three boats employed in towing;
but the Wear was not visible.
Our ship received water very fast; the pumps were instantly manned and
kept in continual use, and signals of distress were made to the
Eddystone, whose commander promptly came on board, and then ordered to
our assistance his carpenter and all the men he could spare, together
with the carpenter and boat's crew of the Wear, who had gone on board
the Eddystone in the morning, and were prevented from returning to their
own vessel by the fog. As the wind was increasing, and the sky appeared
very unsettled, it was determined the Eddystone should take the ship in
tow, that the undivided attention of the passengers and crew might be
directed to pumping, and clearing the holds to examine whether there was
a possibility of stopping the leak. We soon had reason to suppose the
principal injury had been received from a blow near the stern-post, and,
after cutting away part of the ceiling, the carpenters endeavoured to
stop the rushing in of the water, by forcing oakum between the timbers;
but this had not the desired effect, and the leak, in spite of all our
efforts at the pumps, increased so much, that parties of the officers
and passengers were stationed to bail out the water in buckets at
different parts of the hold. A heavy gale came on, blowing from the
land, as the night advanced; the sails were split, the ship was
encompassed by heavy ice, and, in forcing through a closely connected
stream, the tow-rope broke, and obliged us to take a portion of the
seamen from the pumps, and appoint them to the management of the ship.
Fatigue, indeed, had caused us to relax in our exertions at the pumps
during a part of the night of the 8th, and on the following morning
upwards of five feet water was found in the well. Renewed exertions were
now put forth by every person, and before eight A.M. the water was so
much reduced as to enable the carpenters to get at other defective
places; but the remedies they could apply were insufficient to repress
the water from rushing in, and our labours could but just keep the ship
in the same state throughout the day, until six P.M.; when the strength
of every one began to fail, the expedient of thrusting in felt, as well
as oakum, was resorted to, and a plank nailed over all. After this
operation a perceptible diminution in the water was made, and being
encouraged by the change, we put forth our utmost exertion in bailing
and pumping; and before night, to our infinite joy, the leak was so
overpowered that the pumps were only required to be used at intervals
of ten minutes. A sail, covered with every substance that could be
carried into the leaks by the pressure of the water, was drawn under the
quarter of the ship, and secured by ropes on each side.
As a matter of precaution in the event of having to abandon the ship,
which was for some time doubtful, the elderly women and children were
removed to the Eddystone when the wind was moderate this afternoon, but
the young women remained to assist at the pumps, and their services were
highly valuable, both for their personal labour, and for the
encouragement their example and perseverance gave to the men.
At day-light, on the 9th, every eye was anxiously cast around the
horizon in search of the Wear, but in vain; and the recollection of our
own recent peril caused us to entertain considerable apprehensions for
her safety. This anxiety quickened our efforts to exchange our shattered
sails for new ones, that the ship might be got, as speedily as possible,
near to the land, which was but just in sight, and a careful search be
made for her along the coast. We were rejoiced to find that our leak did
not increase by carrying sail, and we ventured in the evening to remove
the sail which had been placed under the part where the injury had been
received, as it greatly impeded our advance.
We passed many icebergs on the 10th, and in the evening we tacked from a
level field of ice, which extended northward as far as the eye could
reach. Our leak remained in the same state; the pumps discharged in
three minutes the quantity of water which had been received in fifteen.
The ship could not be got near to the land before the afternoon of the
11th. At four P.M. we hove to, opposite to, and about five miles distant
from, the spot on which we had first struck on Saturday. Every glass was
directed along the shore (as they had been throughout the day,) to
discover any trace of our absent consort; but, as none was seen, our
solicitude respecting her was much increased, and we feared the crew
might be wrecked on this inhospitable shore. Guns were frequently fired
to apprize any who might be near of our approach; but, as no one
appeared, and no signal was returned, and the loose ice was setting down
towards the ship, we bore up to proceed to the next appointed
rendezvous. At eight P.M. we were abreast of the S.W. end of the island
called Cape Resolution, which is a low point, but indicated at a
distance by a lofty round backed hill that rises above it. We entered
Hudson's Straits soon afterwards.
The coast of Resolution Island should be approached with caution, as the
tides appear to be strong and uncertain in their course. Some dangerous
rocks lie above and below the water's edge, at the distance of five or
six miles from East Bluff, bearing S. 32° E.
_August 12_.--Having had a fresh gale through the night, we reached
Saddleback Island by noon--the place of rendezvous; and looked
anxiously, but in vain, for the Wear. Several guns were fired, supposing
she might be hid from our view by the land; but, as she did not appear,
Captain Davidson, having remained two hours, deemed further delay
inexpedient, and bore up to keep the advantage of the fair wind. The
outline of this island is rugged; the hummock on its northern extremity
appeared to me to resemble a decayed martello tower more than a saddle.
Azimuths were obtained this evening that gave the variation 58° 45' W.,
which is greater than is laid down in the charts, or than the officers
of the Hudson's Bay ships have been accustomed to allow. We arrived
abreast of the Upper Savage Island early in the morning, and as the
breeze was moderate, the ship was steered as near to the shore as the
wind would permit, to give the Esquimaux inhabitants an opportunity of
coming off to barter, which they soon embraced.
Their shouts at a distance intimated their approach sometime before we
descried the canoes paddling towards us; the headmost of them reached us
at eleven; these were quickly followed by others, and before noon about
forty canoes, each holding one man, were assembled around the two ships.
In the afternoon, when we approached nearer to the shore, five or six
larger ones, containing the women and children, came up.
The Esquimaux immediately evinced their desire to barter, and displayed
no small cunning in making their bargains, taking care not to exhibit
too many articles at first. Their principal commodities were, oil,
sea-horse teeth, whale-bone, seal-skin dresses, caps and boots,
deer-skins and horns, and models of their canoes; and they received in
exchange small saws, knives, nails, tin-kettles, and needles. It was
pleasing to behold the exultation, and to hear the shouts of the whole
party, when an acquisition was made by any one; and not a little
ludicrous to behold the eagerness with which the fortunate person licked
each article with his tongue, on receiving it, as a finish to the
bargain, and an act of appropriation. They in no instance omitted this
strange practice, however small the article; the needles even passed
individually through the ceremony. The women brought imitations of men,
women, animals, and birds, carved with labour and ingenuity out of
sea-horse teeth. The dresses and the figures of the animals, were not
badly executed, but there was no attempt at the delineation of the
countenances; and most of the figures were without eyes, ears, and
fingers, the execution of which would, perhaps, have required more
delicate instruments than they possess. The men set most value on saws;
_kuttee-swa-bak_, the name by which they distinguish them, was a
constant cry. Knives were held next in estimation. An old sword was
bartered from the Eddystone, and I shall long remember the universal
burst of joy on the happy man's receiving it. It was delightful to
witness the general interest excited by individual acquisitions. There
was no desire shewn by any one to over-reach his neighbour, or to press
towards any part of the ship where{6} a bargain was making, until the
person in possession of the place had completed his exchange and
removed; and, if any article happened to be demanded from the outer
canoes, the men nearest assisted willingly in passing the thing across.
Supposing the party to belong to one tribe, the total number of the
tribe must exceed two hundred persons, as there were, probably, one
hundred and fifty around the ships, and few of these were
elderly persons, or male children.
Their faces were broad and flat, the eyes small. The men were in general
stout. Some of the younger women and the children had rather pleasing
countenances, but the difference between these and the more aged of that
sex, bore strong testimony to the effects which a few years produce in
this ungenial climate. Most of the party had sore eyes, all of them
appeared of a plethoric habit of body; several were observed bleeding at
the nose during their stay near the ship. The men's dresses consisted of
a jacket of seal-skin, the trowsers of bear-skin, and several had caps
of the white fox-skin. The female dresses were made of the same
materials, but differently shaped, having a hood in which the infants
were carried. We thought their manner very lively and agreeable. They
were fond of mimicking our speech and gestures; but nothing afforded
them greater amusement than when we attempted to retaliate by
pronouncing any of their words.
The canoes were of seal-skin, and similar in every respect to those used
by the Esquimaux in Greenland; they were generally new and very complete
in their appointments. Those appropriated to the women are of ruder
construction, and only calculated for fine weather; they are, however,
useful vessels, being capable of containing twenty persons with their
luggage. An elderly man officiates as steersman, and the women paddle,
but they have also a mast which carries a sail, made of dressed
whale-gut.
When the women had disposed of all their articles of trade they resorted
to entreaty; and the putting in practice many enticing gestures was
managed with so much address, as to procure them presents of a variety
of beads, needles, and other articles in great demand among females.
It is probable these Esquimaux go from this shore to some part of
Labrador to pass the winter, as parties of them have been frequently
seen by the homeward-bound Hudson's Bay ships in the act of crossing the
Strait.
They appear to speak the same language as the tribe of Esquimaux, who
reside near to the Moravian settlements in Labrador: for we perceived
they used several of the words which had been given to us by the
Missionaries at Stromness.
Towards evening, the Captain, being desirous to get rid of his visitors,
took an effectual method by tacking from the shore; our friends then
departed apparently in high glee at the harvest they had reaped. They
paddled away very swiftly, and would, doubtless, soon reach the shore
though it was distant ten or twelve miles.
Not having encountered any of the ice, which usually arrests the
progress of ships in their outward passage through the Straits, and
being consequently deprived of the usual means of replenishing our stock
of water, which had become short, the Captain resolved on going to the
coast of Labrador for a supply. Dr. Richardson and I gladly embraced
this opportunity to land, and examine this part of the coast. I was also
desirous to observe the variation on shore, as the azimuths, which had
been taken on board both ships since our entrance into the Straits, had
shewn a greater amount than we had been led to expect; but, unluckily
the sun became obscured. The beach consisted of large rolled stones of
gneiss and syenite{7}, amongst which many pieces of ice had grounded,
and it was with difficulty that we effected a landing in a small cove
under a steep cliff. These stones were worn perfectly smooth; neither in
the interstices, nor at the bottom of the water, which was very clear,
were there any vestiges of sea-weed.
The cliff was from forty to fifty feet high and quite perpendicular, and
had at its base a small slip of soil formed of the debris of a bed of
clay-slate. From this narrow spot Dr. Richardson collected specimens of
thirty different species of plants; and we were about to scramble up a
shelving part of the rock, and go into the interior, when we perceived
the signal of recall, which the master had caused to be made, in
consequence of a sudden change in the appearance of the weather.
On the evening of the 19th, we passed Digge's Islands, the termination
of Hudson's Strait. Here the Eddystone parted company, being bound to
Moose Factory at the bottom of the Bay. A strong north wind came on,
which prevented our getting round the north end of Mansfield, and, as it
continued to blow with equal strength for the next five days, we were
most vexatiously detained in beating along the Labrador coast, and near
the dangerous chain of islands, the Sleepers, which are said to extend
from the latitude of 60° 10' to 57° 00' N. The press of sail, which of
necessity we carried caused the leak to increase and the pumps were kept
in constant use.
A favouring wind at length enabled us, on the 25th, to shape our course
across Hudson's Bay. Nothing worthy of remark occurred during this
passage, except the rapid decrease in the variation of the magnetic
needle. The few remarks respecting the appearance of the land, which we
were able to make in our quick passage through these Straits, were
transmitted to the Admiralty; but as they will not be interesting to the
general reader, and may not be sufficiently accurate for the guidance
of the Navigator, they are omitted in this narrative.
On the 28th we discovered the land to the southward of Cape Tatnam,
which is so extremely low, that the tops of the trees were first
discerned; the soundings at the time were seventeen fathoms, which
gradually decreased to five as the shore was approached. Cape Tatnam is
not otherwise remarkable than as being the point from which the coast
inclines rather more to the westward towards York Factory.
The opening of the morning of the 30th presented to our view the
anchorage at York Flats, and the gratifying sight of a vessel at anchor,
which we recognised, after an anxious examination, to be the Wear. A
strong breeze blowing from the direction of the Flats, caused the water
to be more shallow than usual on the sandy bar, which lies on the
seaward side of the anchorage, and we could not get over it before two
P.M., when the tide was nearly at its height.
Immediately after our arrival, Mr. Williams, the Governor of the
Hudson's Bay Company's posts, came{8} on board, accompanied by the
Commander of the Wear. The pleasure we felt in welcoming the latter
gentleman can easily be imagined, when it is considered what reason we
had to apprehend that he and his crew had been numbered with the dead.
We learned that one of the larger masses of ice had providentially
drifted between the vessel's side and the rocks just at the time he
expected to strike, to which he secured it until a breeze sprang up, and
enabled him to pursue his voyage.
The Governor acquainted me that he had received information from the
Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company of the equipment of the
Expedition, and that the officers would come out in their first ship. In
the evening Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood, and I, accompanied him to York
Factory, which we reached after dark; it is distant from the Flats seven
miles. Early next morning the honour of a salute was conferred on the
members of the Expedition.
Having communicated to the Governor the objects of the Expedition, and
that I had been directed to consult with him and the senior servants of
the Company as to the best mode of proceeding towards the execution of
the service, I was gratified by his assurance that his instructions from
the Committee directed that every possible assistance should be given to
forward our progress, and that he should feel peculiar pleasure in
performing this part of his duty. He introduced me at once to Messrs.
Charles, Swaine, and Snodie, masters of districts, who, from long
residence in the country, were perfectly acquainted with the different
modes of travelling, and the obstructions which might be anticipated. At
the desire of these gentlemen, I drew up a series of questions
respecting the points on which we required information; to which, two
days afterwards they had the kindness to return very explicit and
satisfactory answers; and on receiving them I requested the Governor to
favour me with his sentiments on the same subject in writing, which he
delivered to me on the following day.
Having learned that Messrs. Shaw, McTavish, and several other partners
of the N.W. Company, were under detention at this place, we took the
earliest opportunity of visiting them; when having presented the general
circular, and other introductory letters, with which I had been
furnished by their agent Mr. Simon McGillivray, we received from them
the most friendly and full assurance of the cordial endeavours of the
wintering partners of their company to promote the interests of the
Expedition. The knowledge we had now gained of the state of the violent
commercial opposition existing in the country, rendered this assurance
highly gratifying; and these gentlemen added to the obligation by freely
communicating that information respecting the interior of the country,
which their intelligence and long residence so fully qualified them to
give.
I deemed it expedient to issue a memorandum to the officers of the
Expedition, strictly prohibiting any interference whatever in the
existing quarrels, or any that might arise, between the two Companies;
and on presenting it to the principals of both the parties, they
expressed their satisfaction at the step I had taken.
The opinions of all the gentlemen were so decidedly in favour of the
route by Cumberland House, and through the chain of posts to the Great
Slave Lake, that I determined on pursuing it, and immediately
communicated my intention to the Governor, with a request that he would
furnish me with the means of conveyance for the party as speedily as
possible.
It was suggested in my instructions that we might probably procure a
schooner at this place, to proceed north as far as Wager Bay; but the
vessel alluded to was lying at Moose Factory, completely out of repair;
independently of which, the route directly to the northward was rendered
impracticable by the impossibility of procuring hunters and guides on
the coast.
I found that as the Esquimaux inhabitants had left Churchill a month
previous to our arrival, no interpreter from that quarter could be
procured before their return in the following spring. The Governor,
however, undertook to forward to us, next season, the only one amongst
them who understood English, if he could be induced to go.
The governor selected one of the largest of the Company's boats for our
use on the journey, and directed the carpenters to commence refitting it
immediately; but he was only able to furnish us with a steersman; and we
were obliged to make up the rest of the crew with the boatmen brought
from Stromness, and our two attendants.
York Factory, the principal depôt of the Hudson's Bay Company, stands on
the west bank of Hayes' River, about five miles above its mouth, on the
marshy peninsula which separates the Hayes and Nelson Rivers. The
surrounding country is flat and swampy, and covered with willows,
poplars, larch, spruce, and birch-trees; but the requisition for fuel
has expended all the wood in the vicinity of the fort, and the residents
have now to send for it to a considerable distance. The soil is alluvial
clay, and contains imbedded rolled stones. Though the bank of the river
is elevated about twenty feet, it is frequently overflown by the
spring-floods, and large portions are annually carried away by the
disruption of the ice, which grounding in the stream, have formed
several muddy islands. These interruptions, together with the various
collection of stones that are hid at high water, render the navigation
of the river difficult; but vessels of two hundred tons burthen may be
brought through the proper channels as high as the Factory.
The principal buildings are placed in the form of a square, having an
octagonal court in the centre; they are two stories in height, and have
flat roofs covered with lead. The officers dwell in one portion of this
square, and in the other parts the articles of merchandise are kept: the
workshops, storehouses for the furs, and the servants' houses are ranged
on the outside of the square, and the whole is surrounded by a stockade
twenty feet high. A platform is laid from the house to the pier on the
bank for the convenience of transporting the stores and furs, which is
the only promenade the residents have on this marshy spot during the
summer season. The few Indians who now frequent this establishment,
belong to the _Swampy Crees_. There were several of them encamped on the
outside of the stockade. Their tents were rudely constructed by tying
twenty or thirty poles together at the top, and spreading them out at
the base so as to form a cone; these were covered with dressed
moose-skins. The fire is placed in the centre, and a hole is left for
the escape of the smoke. The inmates had a squalid look, and were
suffering under the combined afflictions of hooping-cough and measles;
but even these miseries did not keep them from an excessive indulgence
in spirits, which they unhappily can procure from the traders with too
much facility; and they nightly serenaded us with their monotonous
drunken songs. Their sickness at this time, was particularly felt by the
traders, this being the season of the year when the exertion of every
hunter is required to procure their winter's stock of geese, which
resort in immense flocks to the extensive flats in this neighbourhood.
These birds, during the summer, retire far to the north, and breed in
security; but, when the approach of winter compels them to seek a more
southern climate, they generally alight on the marshes of this bay, and
fatten there for three weeks or a month, before they take their final
departure from the country. They also make a short halt at the same
spots in their progress northwards in the spring. Their arrival is
welcomed with joy, and the _goose hunt_ is one of the most plentiful
seasons of the year. The ducks frequent the swamps all the summer.
The weather was extremely unfavourable for celestial observations during
our stay, and it was only by watching the momentary appearances of the
sun, that we were enabled to obtain fresh rates for the chronometers,
and allow for their errors from Greenwich time. The dip of the needle
was observed to be 79° 29' 07", and the difference produced by reversing
the face of the instrument was 11° 3' 40". A succession of fresh breezes
prevented our ascertaining the intensity of the magnetic force. The
position of York Factory, by our observations, is in latitude 57° 00'
03" N., longitude 92° 26' W. The variation of the compass 6° 00' 21" E.