send them off. Pick them in the afternoon, sort them and bunch them
up, and then stand them in water right up to their heads, and keep
them there over night. A basin is the best thing to put the flowers
in, unless the stalks are very long, and a jam-pot or two in the water
will help to keep them from tumbling over and drifting about. Be very
careful that the blooms do not touch the water. Keep the flowers in
water until you are ready to pack them. Tin boxes are best to send
flowers away in; but generally one has to use cardboard ones. Choose
the strongest you can find and line it with two sheets of paper, one
across and one long ways, and each long enough to fold over when it is
full. Then line again with some big cool leaves or moss. Dry the
flowers and pack them as tightly as possible, taking great care not to
crush the petals. Cover them with a few more leaves and fold the paper
over. Then wrap up the box, remembering to write the address on a
label tied at one end of the box, so that the postmark will not be
stamped on the box itself and perhaps break it.
Picking Flowers
When you are picking flowers to send away, never pick old ones. Buds
are best generally, especially in the case of poppies; but they should
be buds just on the point of opening. Always use scissors to cut
flowers with. A very slight tug at a little plant in dry weather pulls
its roots out of the ground. Cut the flowers with long stems and with
some of their green leaves, and at the top of the box that you are
sending away it is pleasant always to put something which smells very
sweetly--lemon verbena, or mignonette--for that first sweet scent is
one of the very best things about receiving a present of this kind.
The Reception of Flowers
When flowers are sent to you, each stem should be cut with a slanting
cut before you put it in water. Flowers with very thick or milky stems
should be slit up about half an inch, and woody stems are best peeled
for an inch or two. Put the flowers deep into water that has had the
chill taken off it. Always put flowers in water as quickly as possible
after they are picked. Change the water every day, and recut the stems
if they look at all brown or dry.
PETS
In no case do the following hints as to the care and character of pets
go so far as they might. But they lay down broadly the most useful
rules. In cases where a dog or bird is really ill, and ordinary
remedies and treatment do not help, the advice of some one who knows
should be asked. It is because all children are in touch with some one
who knows, that this chapter is not longer. The aim of the writer of
most of the notes which follow has been to describe those creatures
which are most commonly kept as pets, with a few suggestions as to
their care in ordinary health.
Dogs: Their Care and Food
All dogs need plenty of exercise; indeed it is scarcely possible to
give them too much when once they are over six months of age. After
twelve months they can follow a horse, but a bicycle as a rule is too
fast for a dog, and the excessive exertion is likely to make them ill.
Plenty of fresh air and freedom are necessary, and your dog should
never be chained except at night, when he should have a snug bed away
from any draught. The house is the best place for a dog to sleep, but
should he live in a kennel it must be a roomy one, filled two or three
times a week with clean straw and raised from the ground about six
inches so that it will keep dry. Kennels with runs in front are the
best, as then the dog need never be chained. In these there should be
a wooden bench for him to lie on, sheltered by a sloping roof. An
earthenware trough of clean water he must always have, and most dogs
will do best if they are fed twice a day: a light breakfast of
biscuit or brown bread and a good dinner of scraps or dog-biscuit
soaked in gravy with vegetables and plenty of rice. A rounded leather
collar is best for dogs with long hair, as it does not show so much or
spoil the coat, but for smooth-coated dogs a flat plain collar is
best.
Washing Dogs
Dogs should not be washed very often, nor will this be necessary if
they are well brushed every day. A stable dandy-brush is best for
short-coated dogs, and a hard hair-brush, or one of those with metal
bristles, which can be bought in most saddlers' shops, for long-coated
ones.
Common yellow soap and soft thick towels should be used when your dog
really needs a bath. Have a pailful of warm water, a pitcher to dip it
up with, a piece of mild yellow soap, and a pail of cold water. Pour a
little warm water over the dog, beginning with his back, shoulders,
and sides, and finish with his head, rubbing the soap into a lather
all over him at the same time. Be careful not to let any water into
his ears, or soap into his eyes. Next rinse the soap well out of his
coat with the warm water, beginning with the head. Then pour the cold
water all over him and let him shake himself well. Rub him dry with
towels and give him a run on grass. Big dogs must be washed in a yard,
but you can put a little one in the tub indoors. All dogs are better
for something to eat after a bath. To swimmers a plunge in a pond or
river is good exercise and a tonic; but dogs should not be thrown in.
Feeding Puppies
Puppies at first need feeding five times a day. At four months old
four meals will do. At twelve months they settle down into grown-up
dogs, and the two meals are sufficient. Do not feed them later than
six o'clock, and always give them a walk after their last meal. A few
dry dog-biscuits when they go to bed will do no harm, and a large
mutton or beef bone now and then will do them good, but small bones
are very dangerous, as they splinter and may kill or seriously injure
the dog.
Distemper
Young dogs are almost sure to have distemper, and if a puppy about six
or eight months old is depressed and quiet, and his eyes look
inflamed, you should put him away by himself at once, sew him up in
thick warm flannel, bathe his eyes with cold tea, and attend very
carefully to his diet. It will be difficult to make him eat, but you
must coax him and even pour strong beef-tea or milk down his throat,
for if he does not eat he will have no strength to fight the disease.
Tripe is the best food for him if he will take it, but try everything
to tempt him, and give him as much as he will take. When you take your
patient for a walk (and he will need exercise) do not take him where
he may meet other dogs, for distemper is very infectious. Put an extra
coat over him, wrapping it well round his throat and chest. Distemper
is a fever, and the risk of chill is very great; it means inflammation
of some sort from which the dog being weak is not likely to recover.
It is always best to call in a veterinary surgeon when a dog shows
symptoms of distemper.
Tricks for Dogs
If your dog is a terrier there is no end to the tricks you can teach
him. Always begin by teaching him to "trust," for it is the foundation
of his training, and he will learn it before he is two months old. Do
not keep him "on trust" for more than a second or two at first, but
gradually make the time longer, until he will let you leave the room
and not touch the biscuit until you return. Then you can teach him to
die, and waltz, sing, ask, box, and beg. Treat him always with
patience and firmness; be quick to reward but never give in to him.
You will, of course, bear in mind the character of the dog in teaching
him tricks. Dogs of dignified nature, such as St. Bernards, mastiffs,
Great Danes, and deer-hounds, for example, you would not labor to
transform into performers. The best dogs of all for teaching
elaborately are poodles.
What is Due to Dogs
Do not overdo your mastership. Remember that a dog needs much liberty
and independence to develop his individuality, and an enterprising
puppy learns more by observation and experience in a week than a
pampered lap-dog does in his whole life; he learns self-reliance, but
he will always run to his master or mistress in any real difficulty,
and you who are his master or mistress must be wary not to
misunderstand or disregard him, for he needs sympathy and love, and if
he does not get them he either becomes cowed and stupid or a
ne'er-do-weel.
Buying Dogs
If you wish to buy a dog, the best way is to get the catalogue of some
big dog show, and find the address of a well-known breeder of the kind
of dog you wish to have. If you write to him and tell him exactly what
you want he will probably send you a suitable puppy at a fair price.
If you think of buying through an advertisement, have the dog on
approval first. Another objection to buying a dog at all casually is
that you will not know either his temper, which is generally
inherited, or his age. In all cases it is best to buy puppies and
train them yourself. This means a good deal of trouble at first, and
takes time and patience, but the younger the puppy the easier he is
to train. The best age is about five weeks old. With constant
attention day and night for a few weeks you will have a perfectly
trained dog who will be a perfect companion to you for years.
Brief descriptions of some of the best known dogs are here given,
beginning with terriers:--
The Bull-Terrier
The bull-terrier is very discriminating in his attachments and does
not easily lose his temper, or, as a rule, fight, unless he is unduly
excited. He is such a nervous dog that if he is roughly treated he is
apt to become a coward, but there is no truer, more faithful friend
than a properly trained terrier of this breed.
The Fox-Terrier
The fox-terrier is often a restless fidgety dog in a house; indeed, to
keep him much in the house seems to affect his intelligence. He fights
readily, but a strong master can alter that. In sharpness and
brightness and hardiness he is not to be beaten, and no dog is more
inquisitive and full of spirits. Perhaps of little dogs he is the
best.
The Irish Terrier
The greatest fault of the Irish terrier is his fondness for barking
unnecessarily; but he is particularly intelligent, active, and
vigorous, and will learn any trick your ingenuity can devise for him.
Other Terriers
There are many other terriers--the Skye, with coat nearly sweeping the
ground; the black and tan, the Welsh terrier, and others less well
known; but for pluck, brains, and fidelity, it is impossible to beat
bull-terriers.
Spaniels
Of all spaniels the Clumber is the most intelligent and beautiful; he
is also, although not a very demonstrative dog, very sincere in his
devotion to his master.
The Cocker is a small spaniel: an active, merry little fellow who can
be taught to retrieve. The black spaniel and the liver-colored Sussex
are, like the Clumber, of the oldest and best breeds, and the Sussex
variety makes an excellent house dog. He is quiet and dignified and
has very good manners. The common Norfolk spaniel is intelligent, a
good water dog, and a faithful companion. A satisfactory puppy should
not cost more than five dollars. He and the Cocker are the best of the
spaniels as pets, although these two breeds are also capable of good
work in the field if carefully trained.
The Retriever
Retrievers occasionally make good companions, but for the most part
they are dogs of one idea--retrieving--and have little interest in
using their intelligence in any other direction.
Setters
The setter is a wise and affectionate animal. He is full of spirit and
needs careful training, but train him well as a puppy and you will be
able to take him everywhere with you, for he is a very gallant and
courteous gentleman. In color the English setter varies with the
different breeds. The Gordon setter is black and tan, and the Irish is
red.
The Collie
The reputation for uncertain temper which collies have is not well
grounded. They are excitable, it is true, and apt to snap if you romp
too long and wildly with them, and they do not take correction kindly;
but people who have owned many specimens of this beautiful breed
testify to having found them always loving and sagacious. A collie
should always belong to one person; many masters make him too
universal in his affections, and under these circumstances he does not
develop intelligently. The collie at work is the wisest of dogs, he
knows each individual sheep in his care, and in snow or mist will
bring every one to the fold before he rests.
Collies may be taught to play hide-and-seek--a game they are very fond
of. First hide a ball in the room and help the dog to find it, and by
degrees he will find anything by himself and will seek all over the
house and garden. Among bad habits many collies have the serious one
of running round and barking at horses. This should be checked by
keeping the dog strictly to heel where he is likely to meet any
traffic.
The Sheep Dog
The old English bob-tailed sheep dog is a bouncing, rough-and-ready
fellow. He is not suitable for a house dog, but he is honest and true
and a good worker, and one can get extremely fond of him.
The Newfoundland
The Newfoundland is one of the grandest of beasts. The true
Newfoundland is black all over, except for a white star on the chest,
and he stands at least twenty-seven inches at the shoulder. The
black-and-white specimens are called Landseer Newfoundlands, on
account of the famous painter's fondness for them. In character these
dogs are dignified and magnanimous, and they are particularly good
with children. Many stories are told of their gallant efforts in
saving life from drowning. The Newfoundland is used for draught in the
island from which he takes his name.
The Mastiff
The mastiff is the best of all guards; it is more pure instinct with
him to guard his master's property than it is with any other breed. He
is honest through and through, and as a rule he is gentle and a good
companion.
The Bull-Dog
The bull-dog is stupid and not particularly affectionate. Although
excitable he is not quarrelsome or savage, and if reasonably treated
no doubt would make a quiet, faithful pet. A not too highly bred
bull-dog is likely to be more intelligent than his very blue-blooded
relations.
The St. Bernard
The most majestic of dogs is the St. Bernard. He is high-couraged and
sagacious and very discriminating in his devotion. Once your friend,
he is always your friend. Although with you he never makes a mistake,
he is apt to growl at strangers, and is not to be relied on to be
polite to visitors. If you have one of the rough-coated variety you
must groom him regularly and take great care of him, as he is a
delicate dog and subject to weakness in the back and hind legs if he
is allowed to get wet or lie on damp ground.
The Great Dane
The Great Dane, or boarhound, is a powerful and active dog. His
appearance is suggestive almost of a wild beast, and he is
particularly well fitted to act as guard. He is gentle and manageable
with those he knows, and his great courage, intelligence, and strength
make him a most desirable companion.
Hounds
Of hounds that hunt by sight we have the English Greyhound, swiftest
of dogs, but neither very intelligent nor affectionate; the Scotch
Deerhound, dignified and very devoted to his master, and a wonderful
jumper over gates and walking-sticks; and the Irish Wolf-hound, bigger
and less graceful than either of the others, but with a great big
heart and noble courage. Gelert was of this breed. There is also the
Borzoi, whose appearance is a combination of greyhound and setter, a
very beautiful but rather stupid animal. Finally, there is the
Bloodhound, remarkable for great intelligence, good temper, and
fidelity. He is one of the finest of dogs, wise and self-reliant and
capable of the truest devotion to his master. He seldom or never
fights, but is full of courage in spite of his naturally nervous
disposition.
Toy Dogs
Toy dogs are fairly intelligent, but noisy and wayward. They cannot be
recommended as interesting pets, since they have little originality;
but they can be taught tricks, and if treated sensibly and not
pampered, no doubt they would develop more intelligence. The best of
the toy dogs are Pugs, toy Pomeranians, the King Charles' Spaniel
(black and tan in color), and the Blenheim spaniel (white and
chestnut).
The Pomeranian
The Pomeranian is a sharp and rather snappy dog, not remarkable for
either great intelligence or amiability; but, as with all breeds,
there are individual exceptions to this rule.
Poodles
Poodles are intelligent and the best of all dogs for learning tricks.
They are also very expensive.
Mongrels
Mongrels can be the best of friends. They are often more original and
enterprising than their too highly-bred cousins, and they are very
self-reliant; but as a rule they are not so courageous nor so
steadfast as a well-bred dog. The chief advantage of possessing a
mongrel is that dog-stealers are less likely to be tempted by him, and
you can give him more freedom, which will make him more interesting
and intelligent than a dog you need to shut up and look after
carefully.
Cats
There is very little to say about cats, except that they need much
petting and plenty of milk and tit-bits. They should always have a
warm bed in a basket or chair. They should never be allowed to stay
out-of-doors at night.
Wild Rabbits
Of all rabbits the brightest and most intelligent, as a pet, is the
wild rabbit. If you can get two or three baby wild rabbits and feed
them on milk, they will grow up very tame. We heard recently of two
small wild rabbits that were taken out of the nest and brought up by
hand. They and their mistress and a collie pup would play together,
and they ran about the room, racing over the floor and furniture. In
the summer one escaped from the coop on the lawn in which they were
shut up, so the other was turned loose too. They would both come out
of the bushes when called, run about over one's dress, and hunt
pockets for oats or bits of apple, and would still play with their old
friend the collie. It is sad to tell of their death, which they met at
the jaws of a strange dog who came marauding. They did not recognize
in him an enemy, and easily fell his victims.
Tame Rabbits
The long-haired Angora variety of rabbit is intelligent and very
handsome. These need regular grooming and great care, or their long
coat gets matted and frowsy. Belgian hares are big, powerful animals,
rather apt to be uncertain in temper, but they have beautiful glossy
coats and are enterprising and amusing. The lop-eared rabbit is a
stately beast and less brisk than his prick-eared relations. The
Himalayan rabbit has no connection with the mountain chain from which
it has its name, is white, with all its extremities--nose, ears, tail,
and feet--black or very dark in color. The Dutch rabbits are small.
The body is colored, but the neck, forelegs, and jaws are white. But
to the ordinary owner of a rabbit in a hutch, particular variety does
not matter very much.
Rabbits' Hutches
A good hutch can be made of a grocer's box, by covering the open front
partly with bars or wire netting and making a door. The hutch should
stand on legs, or at any rate should be raised from the ground, and
holes should be bored in the bottom for drainage. Then put in clean
straw, and it is ready for the rabbit. In cold or wet weather and at
night, it is well to throw a cloth over the hutch for warmth. The
hutch must be well ventilated, and it should be made in two
compartments, one to admit plenty of light, and the other dark. It
should be made so that the animal may be confined in either
compartment while the other is cleaned out.
Food and Exercise
Bran, grain, and vegetables--such as peas, parsley, carrots,
turnip-tops, but not much cabbage--serve for rabbits' food. It is
advisable to vary it occasionally. The leaves should not be wet, but a
dish of clean water may always stand in the hutch.
The animal should be allowed at least half an hour's run every day,
precautions being taken against its burrowing habits, and against its
finding anything poisonous to eat. More than one family should not be
allowed out at the same time, as they are very pugnacious. Most
diseases are the result of neglect in cleaning out the hutch regularly
and thoroughly. Rabbits which most nearly approach the wild in color
are hardiest.
Teaching Rabbits
If you find you have an intelligent rabbit who quickly learns to come
to you when you call him by name, you will find, with patience, you
can teach him that when you say "On trust," he must not touch the
dainty you offer him, and that "Paid for" means he may have it. He
will also learn to "die," and shake hands when you tell him to do so.
Guinea-Pigs
Guinea-pigs need treatment and housing similar to rabbits.
Squirrels
In buying a squirrel make sure it is a young one, because whereas a
young one is difficult enough to tame, an old one is not to be tamed
at all. Unless you can give him a really large cage, with room for a
branch on which he may leap about, it is cruel to keep a squirrel at
all, so beautifully free is his nature. A little side compartment
containing a revolving wheel should be added. Your only chance of
taming him is to be extremely quiet and gentle in all your visits to
the cage and in giving him his food--nuts, acorns, grain, cold boiled
potatoes, dry bread, and now and then a small piece of cooked meat. A
very charming account of what it is possible to do with tame squirrels
will be found in a little book called _Billy and Hans_, by Mr. W. J.
Stillman.
Mice
Mice should have a cage with two compartments, one of which should
have a door in the woodwork but no wires. In this room should be a bed
of hay. The natural food of mice is grain, but in captivity they are
generally fed on bread and milk and slices of apple. They can be tamed
to a small extent, but for the most part they do no more than run
round a wheel, although if other gymnastic contrivances are offered
them they will probably do something with them. Dormice (to whose food
you may add nuts) sleep through the winter months, and are therefore
not very interesting for more than half the year.
Turtles
A turtle is rather an interesting animal to keep, although he will not
do much in return. Even in summer they have a curious way of
disappearing for weeks together, and in winter, of course, you see
nothing of them. An ordinary mud turtle is often seen moving slowly
along the roads after a rain. He can be carried home by turning him
over on his back--but be careful to keep your fingers away from his
snapping mouth. As a rule they can feed themselves, and they also have
the happy knack of doing without food altogether for long periods, so
that you need not be anxious.
Fish
Bowls of goldfish are not uncommon, but few people seem to care for
fish of other kinds. And yet a little aquarium can be stocked for a
small sum and is a most interesting possession. One small tank of
young bream, for example, can be a perpetual and continually fresh
delight. Let the tank have cloisters of rockwork and jungles of weed,
so that hiding may be possible, and then watch the smaller fish at
their frolics. Young trout are hardly less beautiful, and very easy
to keep healthy, in spite of general opinion to the contrary. The
important thing is to maintain a current of water through the tank.
The old way was to carry the overflow down a pipe in the centre
through its surface opening, but an improvement on this system is for
the leakage to be at the bottom of the tank and the inflow at the top.
Young perch are beautiful too,--and tench, and dace, and roach,--and
all are hardy. Feeding them is very simple. The shop from which you
buy the fish will keep you supplied with the proper food. The American
catfish, with its curious antennae or whiskers, and its gleaming eyes,
set as by a jeweler, is more wonderful, and not a whit more difficult
to keep. But to be amused by such unfamiliar neighbors as a tankful of
fish there is no real need either to stray abroad or to spend any
money. The ordinary minnow, which you can catch in any stream and pop
into a jar, will serve to introduce you to a new world--a world of
silent progressions, of incredible celerities, of amazing
respirations.
Silkworms