very careful not to pull up too many. It is easiest to thin out when
the soil is wet. When the seedlings are two inches high only those
which you wish to keep should be left in. It is not very easy to say
exactly how much room to leave the different plants, but plants which
will be six inches high should be about three inches apart; those
which will be one foot high about six inches, and so on. Godetia,
nasturtium, love-in-a-mist, sweet-pea, cornflower, and larkspur
seedlings can be transplanted when about two inches high, if you find
you want them where they have not been sown. To do this water the
ground well first, and then pull the seedlings out so gently that none
of their tiny fibrous roots are snapped; and, if possible, bring away
a little earth with each. Re-plant them as quickly as you can, making
for each a little hole big enough for the roots to spread out in. Hold
the seedling in position, and fill in with very moist earth; or else,
after you have made the hole, fill it up with water, then put back
some of the earth and stir it up into a sort of paste, and put the
seedling in this, filling up the hole with the rest of the earth.
Seedlings that have been transplanted must be kept moist until they
have taken a good start, and if possible they should be shaded with a
branch of evergreen, for they droop very quickly in the heat.
All seedlings must be watered gently and often. If you notice how
quickly the sun dries the surface of the ground, you will see how
necessary it is to keep the ground moist until the roots get bigger
and go down deep into the earth.
Weeds and Seedlings
It is most important to know what the baby-plants will look like when
they come up, because one has to weed hard in the warm showery
weather, and if one is not careful, mignonette, sweet-peas, and
poppies may go on the rubbish heap, and chickweed and purseley be left
on the flower-bed; which, although it is what the birds like, will,
later, be very disheartening to you. Of course, if your seeds are well
marked, there will be less difficulty, but even then weeds will come
up amongst them. The only safe way is to get to know the appearance of
all the seedlings, and to help you to remember it is a good thing to
make little drawings of them in your garden note-book.
Autumn Sowing
Some seeds, such as cornflowers, godetias, and poppies, can be sown in
the autumn. They will stand the winter as a rule and will make finer
plants and blossom earlier than if sown in spring. They should be sown
thinly in open ground.
Any good catalogue will give you a list of annuals suitable for your
purposes and with a little advice from an older gardener you will have
no difficulty in selecting wisely.
Biennials
These are best sown in May. If the garden is full they may be sown in
an ordinary wooden box filled with several inches of good earth.
Transplant them to their permanent places later on.
Remember that all plants will flower for a much longer time if the
flowers are kept cut and any faded ones taken off.
Saving Seed
The best seed is saved from plants set apart for that purpose; for
good seed comes from the first and finest flowers and not from those
left over at the end of the flowering season. These plants should be
sown in a little patch by themselves, should be allowed to run to
seed, and carefully tended until the seed-pods are ripe enough to be
gathered. If, therefore, you have not a large garden, it is best to
buy most of your seed each year, using a little of your own, from
which, however, you must not always expect the finest flowers. If you
have no wish to keep any of your flowers merely for seeding purposes
but still want, while getting flowers from them, also to save a few
seeds, the thing to do is to mark one or two of the finest blossoms
with a tiny piece of wool or silk (it is better when it is the color
of the flower) and let it go to seed. Take special care of the plant,
and cut off all other flowers as you wish to gather them. Watch the
seed-pods when they are formed, and when they are ripe--that is, brown
and dry--cut them off, break them open, and spread the seeds out. Look
them over very carefully to see that there are no maggots amongst
them, and if they are at all damp leave them in a warm place until
they are dry. Then make them up in little packets, clearly labeled
with their names, colors, and the date, and put them away in a dry
place until next spring. In saving sunflower seeds choose your best
sunflower, and when the petals have fallen tie it up in muslin, or
else the birds will steal a march on you. In gathering sweet-pea pods
one has to be rather clever, because when they are quite ripe they
burst open and the seeds fly out suddenly, sometimes just as one is
going to cut them. In one poppy pod there are hundreds of seeds,
enough to stock a garden, and the same is the case with the pretty
pods of love-in-a-mist. Nasturtium seeds should be picked up when they
fall on the ground, and spread out until quite brown and dry.
Cornflowers, which have little seeds like shaving-brushes, generally
sow themselves, and marigolds do too, but they are both easy to save.
In choosing a place in which to keep seeds through the winter remember
that damp is not the only danger. Mice enjoy them thoroughly.
Perennials
Perennials are plants which, although they die down in winter, come up
again and blossom every following spring or summer. They can be grown
from seed, but, with a few exceptions, this is a long and troublesome
part of gardening, and it is best to get them from friends or from a
nurseryman.
Planting Perennials
The best months for planting perennials are November, February, and
March. Dig a hole large enough to take the roots when well spread out,
hold your plant in position, with the junction of stem and root just
below the level of the earth, and fill in gently with fine soil,
pressing it down firmly all round the plant, and if there is danger of
frost protect the plants with straw, bracken, or a mulching of manure.
Never water if there is any likelihood of frost.
Here follow some general remarks concerning the treatment of
perennials through the spring, summer, and autumn:--
Slugs
In the spring, slugs, which eat the tender new leaves of many plants,
can be kept away by sprinkling coal-ash around them.
Watering
In hot weather, water perennials regularly and well, breaking up earth
around them so that the water sinks in easily.
Supports
All tall-growing perennials will need stakes to support them. Care
must be taken not to injure the roots when putting these in. The
stalks can be tied with twine.
Dividing
Perennials can be divided if they grow too large. With
summer-flowering plants this should be done in October or November,
and with spring-flowering plants in June. In dividing you simply dig
up the plant and break off as much of it as you want, being careful
not to injure the roots. As, however, there are many plants which, to
be divided, must be cut, and as this is an operation which requires
some skill and knowledge, it would perhaps be better to take advice.
Perennials From Seed
Snapdragon, wallflower, pansies, and hollyhocks are very easily grown
from seed. They can be sown in June (wallflowers are best sown in
April) in boxes, and thinned out and transplanted to permanent places
as soon as they are large enough. They will blossom the following
year.
Seedlings
Seedlings of most perennials can be bought for a few cents a dozen.
They should be planted as quickly as possible and watered well, and
they will flower the following year.
Consult a good nurseryman's catalogue for a list of hardy perennials,
as for the annuals.
Bulbs--General Remarks
A garden that is planted only with bulbs, or with bulbs and a few
ferns, can be kept beautiful all the year round. Many of our loveliest
flowers come from bulbs, and they are easy to grow and interesting to
watch from the moment that the first leaf-tips push through the earth
until they die down. The position of all bulbs should be very
carefully marked on the beds and in your garden-plan, so that you will
not cut or injure them when digging your garden over.
The first bulbs to come--through the snow sometimes--are the
snowdrops, single and double, crocuses--yellow, purple, lilac, and
striped--and then the tiny bright blue squills; and a little later the
yellow daffodil and white narcissus, hyacinths, and tulips of every
kind. Then white, red, and purple anemones, ranunculi, and wax-like
Stars of Bethlehem. In June there are wonderful irises and tall spikes
of summer-flowering gladiolus--red and white--and later still the tall
garden lilies. There are many of these lilies, and all of them are
exceedingly beautiful. Two kinds should be in all gardens--the white
Madonna lily, and the orange tiger lily. All the bulbs that have been
mentioned cost very little and can be grown very simply. And all bulbs
that have been mentioned can remain untouched for many years unless
they exhaust the soil around them (when, instead of increasing as they
should each year, the plants become poorer and smaller).
Never move a bulb when it is in active growth: after the leaves have
died down is the right time.
Leaf-mould mixed with your garden soil will help to give you fine
flowers.
If the leaves of the bulbs are attacked by slugs, as they often are,
sprinkle a little wood-ash all around them.
Planting Bulbs
For planting bulbs choose a day when the earth is dry, and make your
holes with a trowel. If you want to make a clump of bulb-plants, take
away the earth to the right depth from the whole area you wish to
fill, place your bulbs in position, points upward, and cover over,
pressing the earth firmly down.
In planting a bulb in a hole made for it by a trowel, be very careful
to see that it is resting on earth, and is not "hung," that is to say,
kept from touching the earth underneath because of the narrowness of
the hole.
All bulbs may be protected during the winter by laying hay or straw
over them. This must be neatly pegged down, and removed in March.
Cutting Leaves
Never cut all the leaves of plants growing from bulbs, but allow those
that are unpicked to die down naturally. If they look very untidy, as
the leaves of the Star of Bethlehem always do, tie them up tightly.
Seeds of annuals can always be sown among bulbs, and they will hide
dying leaves and fill up the places that are left vacant.
Shades
"Shades" are subterranean gardens: holes in the ground, some eighteen
inches deep and about a foot square (or larger), the sides of which
are covered with moss and little ferns. At the bottom you can sink a
pot or a tin, which must always be kept filled with water. It is more
interesting if a toad or a frog lives there. Over the hole stands a
shade made of glass and wood, which, together with the water, keeps it
cool and moist.
Kitchen Gardens
If you want to grow other things besides flowers, lettuces, radishes,
and mustard and cress are interesting to raise. Strawberries, too, are
easy to cultivate, but they need some patience, as the first year's
growth brings very few berries. In sowing the seeds of lettuce,
radish, and mustard and cress, follow directions given for sowing
flower seeds on page 320. If you want to grow even the few things
mentioned, which need only very simple culture, the soil of the garden
must be good.
Lettuce
Sow a few seeds of lettuce very thinly in a line once every three
weeks. When the seedlings, which should be protected from birds by
netting, are three inches high, thin them out, leaving one foot
between each plant. The seedlings that are pulled up can be
transplanted or eaten. Transplanted lettuces should be shaded during
hot weather and given plenty of water. During dry and hot weather you
may water lettuces every day.
Radishes
Sow a few radish seeds thinly once every three weeks, and cover very
lightly with earth. These seedlings also must be protected by netting
from birds, and must have plenty of water, or the radishes will become
stringy and poor. In summer sow in a shady place.
Mustard and Cress
Mustard and cress seed can be sown at any time and is almost sure to
be successful. In very hot weather sow in the shade, or protect from
the sun in the middle of the day. The cress should always be sown
three days before the mustard. It is a favorite device to sow one's
name in mustard and cress. For other ways of treating it, see page
332.
Strawberries
Plant strawberries carefully in August or September. Dig a hole for
each plant and spread the roots well out. Hold the plant while filling
in the earth, so that that part of it where root and stem join comes
just below the soil. Each plant should be eighteen inches from its
neighbor. Cut off all runners--that is, the long weedy stems which the
plants throw out in spring, and water well if the weather is dry.
Protect the strawberries from birds, and watch very carefully for
slugs, which are greedy strawberry-eaters. When the fruit begins to
form, lay some straw on the earth under and between the plants. This
will keep the berries clean.
Town Gardens
So far, we have been speaking of gardens in the country, or, at any
rate, not among houses. There are many more difficulties to contend
with in town gardening; there is more uncertainty, and often less
reward for the greatest care, than in country gardening; but the
flowers that do grow seem so sweet between dull walls and under smoky
chimneys, that one can forget how much more luxuriant they could be in
other circumstances.
Flowers for Towns
The following list of annuals, perennials, and bulbs which grow well
in the heart of towns, though it is not complete, contains enough
plants to fill a garden:--
ANNUALS. PERENNIALS. BULBS.
Alyssum. Jap. Anemones Crocuses.
Candytuft. Campanulas. Daffodils.
Collinsia. Delphiniums. Hyacinths.
Coreopsis. Flags. Madonna Lillies.
Mignonette. Gaillardias. Squills.
Nasturtiums. Pinks. Spanish Irises.
Poppies. Sunflowers. Tulips.
Sunflowers. Wallflowers. Winter Aconite.
In addition to the plants mentioned above, hardy ferns grow well, and
so do lilies of the valley, and stonecrops and saxifrages. Wandering
Jew will also thrive, and the canary creeper grows as well in town as
in the country.
In summer, geraniums, fuchsias, heliotrope--which must be well
watered--pansies, lemon verbena, and scented geraniums, can be
planted out.
Roses do not do very well in towns; but hardy ones will grow quite
enough flowers to make the possession of them a great delight.
Indoor Gardening and Window Boxes--Precautions
A window full of flowers and green plants makes all the difference to
a room. There are always certain difficulties about growing plants in
a room; but these may, however, be partly overcome. One is the great
change of temperature between day and night in winter; another is the
very evil effect of gas on plants; and a third is the presence of
dust. The difference of temperature is met to a great extent by taking
the flowers away from the window at night and putting them in the
middle of the room. This is specially necessary when there is any
danger of frost. If gas is burned in the room where plants are all
day, it is wise at evening to take the trouble to move them into
another room, for nothing injures them more. As to dust, ferns and
plants which have smooth leaves should be gently sponged with warm
water once a week, or else the pores will be so choked that the plants
will not be able to breathe. Those plants which cannot be sponged,
such as fine-leafed ferns, geraniums, etc., should be gently sprayed
occasionally, or, in warm weather, placed out-of-doors during a soft
shower. When a room is being cleaned, the plants should either be
taken away or covered with soft paper.
The window chosen for your plants should be a sunny one and as
draughtless as may be. It should not be opened unless the day is very
mild. One thing to remember is that wherever the plants are they
should have as much sun, as equal a temperature, and as little draught
as possible.
Watering
No exact rule can be given for watering; but it should be noted that
water ought never to be allowed to stand in the saucers. In winter,
one good watering a week with lukewarm water, applied in the morning,
will be sufficient. In spring, when the plant is more active, more
water will be needed, and in summer constant attention must be given
to watering. Remember, that not only the surface but the whole soil
needs moistening.
Flower-Pots
In spring time, if the plants seem to have outgrown their pots, or if
they are not thriving well, re-pot them in larger pots with the best
earth you can get. Water well after re-potting.
Turn the plants round every day, as the sun always draws them toward
it.
Indoor Plants
A list follows of suitable plants to be grown indoors. Green plants
are mentioned first.
_Aspidistra._--Of all green plants the aspidistra is the best to grow
indoors. (This plant indeed is so hardy that it will stand not only
draught but even a certain amount of gas.) Its smooth, beautiful
leaves should be carefully sponged every week.
_India-rubber Plant._--The india-rubber plant is a very handsome,
smooth, bright-leaved plant. It should not be given too much water.
_Ferns._--Several hardy ferns grow well in a window. The maidenhair is
very beautiful while it lasts, but it is a poor thing the second year
unless it can be put into a greenhouse and cared for.
_Ivy._--Small-leaved variegated ivy will grow under almost any
conditions. Its leaves should be kept clean. If grown up a small
trellis it is very pretty.
_Japanese Fern Balls._--In February and March one can buy Japanese
fern balls. The balls have to be soaked for two or three hours in
water (rainwater if possible) and then drained and hung up in a window
where there is not too much sun. They should be watered three times a
week. Gradually the delicate ferns will grow and unfold until the
whole ball is a mass of green. In November they should be put away in
a cool dark place until the following February, when they can be
started again.
_Miniature Trees._--Fine little trees can be grown from chestnuts,
beechnuts, acorns, and hazel-nuts. Collect the nuts as they fall and
leave them in a dark place, until about two weeks before Christmas,
when you lay them in bowls full of wet moss or in pots filled with
earth, and put them in a warm dark place near hot pipes, or in a warm
cupboard. This warmth will start the root growth. When the root is
two inches long, fill a bowl with moss or pebbles, lay the nuts on the
top so that they are only half covered, with the roots downward, and
keep in a room where they will have plenty of light. Water frequently
but do not let much water stand in the bowl.
_Wheat or Canary Seed._--Wheat or canary seed can be sown in any kind
of dish, the bottom of which is covered with wet moss. Sow the seed
thickly and then keep the dish in a dark cupboard until the seedlings
are about two inches high. Then place it in a sunny window. The seed,
which will take about three weeks to grow, makes a beautiful patch of
clear light green in a room. Keep the moss wet.
_Mustard and Cress_ can be sown in pots or on pieces of wet flannel.
_Campanulas._--Blue and white campanulas are grown in almost every
cottage window, and they are very beautiful and graceful. They can be
grown in pots, but are prettiest in baskets from which to hang down.
_Fuchsias and Geraniums._--Both fuchsias and geraniums are gay and
delightful plants for a room. Good kinds should be bought in early
summer and well watered. In winter the plants should be kept in a cool
dark place, until with the coming of spring they begin to grow again.
Both can very easily be increased by cuttings. To do this take off a
shoot of about four inches long, cutting it off just below a joint.
Then pull off the leaves just above the joint and put it into some
earth in a sunny corner and water it well. In about a month roots will
have formed and it can then be potted.
_Bulbs._--Bulbs, such as tulips, iris, daffodils, crocuses, scillas,
and snowdrops, can be grown in pots or deep earthenware saucers that
have been filled with cocoanut fibre. This can be bought at any
florist's. A little shell, shingle, or sand, can be mixed with the
fibre, and a piece of charcoal should be put at the bottom of the pot
to keep it sweet. The bulbs need only to be covered with a thin layer
of damp fibre. Water regularly, as they must never get dry. If your
pot has no drainage hole it is a good thing a little while after
watering to turn it gently on one side so that any water which has not
been soaked up by the fibre can run off.
Bulbs can also be grown indoors in earth. Plant them in October just
below the soil, and keep them in a cool dark place until they have
made a little growth. Then bring to a sunny window. Horsfieldii
narcissus, polyanthus-flowered narcissus, and yellow jonquils, grow
well, and so do tulips, hyacinths, and crocuses. In a sunny window the
Scarborough lily (_Vallota purpurea_) can be grown. It is a very
gorgeous and imposing red flower which blossoms in August and
September. It should be planted in autumn and plenty of room allowed
for its roots.
The Good-Luck Lily, which is a strong and beautiful polyanthus
narcissus, can be grown in bowls filled with pebbles and water. Fill
the bowl almost to the top with clean pebbles (which can be brought
from the seashore), and among them plant the bulbs and fill up with
water which must be added to as it evaporates. Among the pebbles put
two or three pieces of charcoal.
Bulbs in Glasses
Hyacinths and daffodils can also be grown in glasses filled with
water, either glasses sold for the purpose, or any kind into the necks
of which the bulbs will fit. The bulb should be placed in the glass in
October, and should not quite touch the water. Use good fresh water
and put a little piece of charcoal in the glass. Change the water once
a week. In warm sunny weather the hyacinths can be put out of doors
for a little while every day.
Window Boxes
One cannot grow very many things in a window box, but it is most
interesting to grow a few. In a town it is often all the garden that
many people possess.
The length of a window-box will depend on the size of the window. Its
depth should be ten inches at least. At the bottom of the box some
cinders or other rough material should be put, and then it should be
filled up with the best earth you can get. And because of the
difference it makes to the growth of your flowers it is worth while to
take a great deal of trouble in getting good, rich mould. The earth
may be kept level, or heaped up at one or both ends, and a few stones
added to make a tiny rockery, in which you can grow small saxifrages
and other rock plants.
Flowers for Window-Boxes
Nasturtiums and canary creeper can climb up a little trellis made of
sticks at each end of the box, or they can cling to strings fixed to
the box and nailed high up at the side of the window. Wandering Jew or
ivy-leaved geranium will fall over the front of the box and make it
look very gay. Bulbs, such as winter aconite, squills, snowdrops, a
few daffodils, tulips and irises, will grow well in boxes. These
should be planted rather deep. Then primroses and forget-me-nots can
be planted, and in May a border of lobelia, one or two geraniums,
pansies, fuchsias, a plant of lemon verbena, and some musk.
Mignonette, Virginia stock, collinsia, should be sown in spring in
little patches or lines.
Keep the leaves of all the plants as clean as possible by gentle
watering with a rose. Never let the earth get dry from neglect, or
sodden from too much watering; yet water well, for driblets only
affect the surface, and it is the roots far down in the box that need
moisture.
Cutting Flowers and Packing Them--Flowers for Post