Round Fold, by the road side from Chelmerton hither, at Stadon; and
under the hill called Stadon Hoe. I take it to be a curious Celtic
antiquity, much of the nature of those which in Anglesey and Wiltshire
we call Druids houses: so in Dorsetshire circles of stones they call
Folds. The country people say it was cast up in war-time long since.
It consists of a square _vallum_, 100 feet each side: the ditch whence
it came is on the inside: eastward from this is a circle of 160 feet
diameter, of like manner: the whole stands on an open plain, which
declines northward: the square is upon a level; but the circular part
declines gently from thence: on that point of the circle farthest from
the square is a little semicircular cove of earth, like the place of a
tabernacle. It is hard to say whether it was for a private use, or for
judicature, or religious affairs; but in the pasture behind it is a
barrow, and several more barrows in view, on the hill-tops. At Stadon
I saw a large square intrenchment, now divided into pastures; and upon
the top of the hoe, where the hawthorn stands, seem to have been some
works. This circle of ours, by sinking the ditch within, seems well
contrived for shows: five or six tire of people may stand commodiously
round it, and look over one another’s heads. Both _vallum_ and ditch
are but small, much inferior to that of a camp.
In the field by the garden at Buxton are two springs close together,
one hot, the other cold. Little flint arrow-heads of the ancient
Britons, called Elfs arrows, are frequently ploughed up here. Roman
plaster found here, mentioned in Thoresby’s _Ducat. Leodiens._ p. 558.
A Roman road is said to go hence to Burgh, beyond Elden park.
* * * * *
Journeying hence over the remainder of these Alpine regions, we come to
Goyt house, in the very centre of desolation. The most western of these
hills are more barren and difficult than the others, and fuller of
springs. At length we entered the pleasant country of Cheshire, as into
a new world; wondering that people are found who can content themselves
with the poverty and horror of the Peak, so near riches and delight.
MACCLESFIELD
Is a pretty large and pleasant town, sheltering itself from eastern
blasts by its vicinity to these high hills: it stands upon an eminence,
and is famous for manufactures of silk twisting, mohair, making
buttons, &c. The church is placed upon the edge of the hill. South is
a large chapel of the ancient family of Rivers (_Ripariis_) another
of the Leighs, where, for saying a small number of _Ave-marys_ and
_Paternosters_, we obtain 26,000 years and odd days of pardon: to such
a degree of extravagance was the superstitious folly of our ancestors
advanced!
Stockport is built on a hill of rock. The church is spacious. A place
called the Castle-yard, walled in. The Tame, Mersey, and other rivers,
meet here, falling from the Derbyshire hills: united they pass swiftly
through a rocky channel under a bridge of a single arch, large and well
turned: they cut themselves houses in the rock here, as at Nottingham.
Sometimes the floods reach the top of the bridge.
MANCVNIVM.
The Roman _castrum_ was on the west side of the Roman road going from
Chester, by Stretford, and on the northern bank of the river Medloc.
It is a small piece of level ground, somewhat higher than that around
it: it does not cover the whole piece, but is a square, 500 foot one
way, 400 the other: nor can it well be said to be ditched about; but
the ground near it, for some distance, is manifestly removed into the
castle, and spread along its verge, not as a regular _vallum_, but
sloping inward: by this means the _area_ of it is higher on the sides
than middle, and the external ground is lowered all around, to the
foot of the castle, which is steep like the side of a _vallum_. Upon
this edge there has been a wall quite round: the foundations of it
are to be discerned almost every where; in some places large parcels
of it left, but not above ground. Now they call it the Castle croft.
The river Medloc runs near it, but is no security to it, as being not
close enough: nor are its banks steep hereabouts, though its channel
is rock, as is the whole country near. This is a quarter of a mile
from the present town of Manchester. The Irwell river, coming through
the town, runs on the west side the castle, and there the Medloc
joins it. I look upon Manchester to be no ancient town; and even
the hundred is denominated from Saltford, the village on the other
side the bridge, therefore older: but Manchester is a much better
situation, as higher; placed too between two rivers, having rocky
and precipicious banks, with a good prospect: it is a very pleasant,
large, populous, and thriving town; new buildings added every day:
the roads are mending about it, and the river is making navigable;
which will still contribute to its prosperity. The old church is very
spacious and handsome, and enlarged still with numbers of large chapels
and oratories; but the monuments, which were many, are destroyed and
obliterated: a priest, of the name of Huntingdon, lies before the
altar. It is a collegiate church, and the stalls in the choir are of
very good carved work in the old manner.
This country is very woody, and affords a fine prospect every where,
bounded by high and distant hills. A conflux of the many roads at this
place gave origin to the town. Saltford is a large town; a broad and
very strait street leading to Warington, probably Roman: a very good
bridge over the river. Ten yards west from the castle is a natural
precipice, which the Romans disregarded, trusting to their walls, but
more to their own valour. A cavity cut in the rock by the river, under
the south-west angle. The natural track of this road is north-east, but
towards Manchester it trends a little more northward; I suppose, with
an intent to come to the bridge, where it met the road from _Veratinum_.
I saw the altar at Holm house, lady Bland’s: it is 16 Roman inches
broad, one front; a foot on the sides; 28 inches high: it is now
removed out of the garden into coverture. They call the castle the
Giant’s castle. Probably there was a town at the river Medloc in Roman
times: an annual fair is still kept there. The castle stands parallel
to the road. The river Irke comes in here under the college-walls: the
castle-walls were pulled up to mend and build the churches and bridges.
I find the Roman road went across the church-yard originally, and so by
the common street to the bridge over the Irke, called Scotland bridge:
then it ascends the hill, and proceeds with its original direction
north-east to Rochdale, which way the old _Coccium_ was. Edward the
elder by our monkish authors is said to have built a castle here, which
probably was by the church and college; and the church may be founded
on its ruins: this drew the town that way: the meeting of the two
rivers there, and the steep rocks upon them, rendered it a convenient
situation for such a work.
The college founded by Chetham, a tradesman, has a very good library,
and good salary: here are about fifty boys maintained.
Mr. Prescot of Chester has a gold Otho found here. I saw a Celt found
in the mosses.
CONDATE.
We rode all the way upon the Roman road from Manchester to this place:
it is the common road throughout, except a little near Altringham:
that market-town has caused it to be left, by a common; but we recover
it again at Bowden hill, whence we had the prospect of it a long way
before us, in a strait line: it leaves Altringham a little to the
east, passes west of Rotherston mere, close on the west of North
Tabley house, and so directly to Northwich, which therefore must be of
necessity the _Condate_ of Antoninus. The Britons called these wiches,
or places of salt-works, _Hellath_, from _heli_, salsugo: the last
syllable seems to be in _Condate_: then it will signify the principal
salt-work, _cond_, caput. Part of the road hither, by the Bollin river,
they call Wash-way, from its wateriness; which shows the derivation of
our country washes. This town stands in an angle made by the Weaver
river and the Dane, both which are passed by bridges, sometimes
overflow with great fury. South of the bridge, upon the high ground by
the Chester road, is a great _tumulus_, or keep, of Saxon work, called
the Castle. This is a pretty large town, but meanly built, depending
intirely upon the salt trade: here are the strongest springs of brine,
and the wonderful mines or rocks of salt, 60 yards under ground, which
they work like coal-mines: how far they extend, is not known. I doubt
not but there are many more all over this country: these are found out
by chance, not many years since: they carry it into Ireland, Wales,
and other places; and boil it up afresh with seawater. It is a most
liberal gift of Nature, a compendious way of making salt; these springs
being stronger than the ocean: the rock salt stronger than they; for
it is perfect salt, transparent like crystal: it lies not in veins, or
_strata_, as other minerals, or metals; but a solid rock, of unknown
dimensions, which they hew away with steeled pick-axes, leaving pillars
and spaces, as big as a cathedral. Poplar-trees are plentiful in this
country: they all lean eastward, as continually pressed by the west
winds from the sea.
The country from Northwich to Chester is intirely sand, and very
deep: a barren view; once a forest. They dig up the turf every where
for fewel; which prevents for ever its being capable of cultivation,
otherwise not impracticable: the oaks are all gone. Mid-way is the
Chamber in the forest, as called, upon a very high hill of sandy stone.
Here they say Edelfleda, the great Mercian princess, built a city;
I rather believe, a fortress, and that probably one of the Romans
originally, to guard this road. We can scarce affirm any thing of the
Roman way is visible, except at first setting out from Northwich, and
near Chester, where it falls into the original Watling-street, half
a mile off the city, by the river side: but there can be no manner
of doubt but that a Roman way was drawn here, to that we rode on
before: how it was done by that people, I cannot guess; for it was
impracticable to raise a bank; and it would be wholly vain in this
sand, unless they dug it away to the bottom, which is impossible: I
suppose it was by stones set on both sides at proper distances, for a
direction only, which are since carried away, or buried by the sands;
for now and then we saw a stone seeming to be milliary. There is a
horse-race, with a very good course; which shows the turf is well
consolidated, where not skimmed off for the purposes aforesaid. When we
draw near to Chester, we see on the left the Welsh mountains: on one,
which is a very steep precipice on all sides, stands Beeston castle:
before us, they rise one above another, and leave the clouds below
their summits. Mr. Gale gives us several instances of _Condate_, and
the like words, signifying a place where is the union of some rivers:
and such is the situation of Northwich, where the Dane and the Weaver
meet at the town; and the Pever a little below it, by the salt-rock. At
Tarvin, where the road passes over a river approaching to Chester, is
Stanford, so called from it.
DEVA. +Chester.+
This is a noble old city, the work of the victorious 20th Legion, the
conquerors of these western regions. It is manifest at first sight,
that they regarded, in the plan of it, the known form of their camps:
it is a parallelogram set to the four quarters of the heavens; the
longest side north and south: suburbs are extended eastward, and a new
gate called the bars, where the Watling-street, and the road from
Condate, enters: the Roman walls take in exactly the space of 10,000
foot, or two miles. The soil is sandy, upon rock of a red colour and
sandy composure, with small pebbles intermixed. The soil has been more
or less sandy ever since we left the Chiltern hills at Dunstable.
[Illustration: 65·2ᵈ.
_The outside_ Front _of the_ Roman Gate _of the_ Watling-street
_call’d_ East Gate _at_ Chester, _as standing 2. Aug. 1725._
_The_ Ichnography.
_Stukeley delin._ _Sturt sc._]
[Sidenote: TAB. LXV]
Riding under the gate where the Watling-street enters, I observed
immediately two arches of Roman work. I was overjoyed at sight of so
noble an antiquity, which has never been mentioned. It was a square of
twenty foot within; for so far are they distant from each other, and
of so much diameter: they are exactly of the same manner as those at
Lincoln; the stones not quite so large, nor so good: the breadth is
2½ foot. On each side was a portal, of a lesser arch, and lower, for
foot-passengers; for part of the arch is left, and people now alive
remember them open quite through; though now both these, and part of
the great arch, are taken up by little paltry shops: or, rather, the
lesser ones are quite pulled down, and even the great ones are in
the utmost danger of falling; for the occupants of those places cut
away part of the bottom of the semicircle to enlarge their shops. The
portals answered to the Rows (as they call them) so remarkable in
this city, being portico’s quite through on both sides the streets,
undoubtedly continued in a manner from the Roman times. It is admirable
that these vast arches, made of stones of so large dimensions, and
laid without mortar, can stand at all when their proper butment is
destroyed: that which regards the city has a key-stone: in both, below
the lowest stone of the arch, the two next courses downward project a
little inward, in nature of imposts; and over the crown of the arches
runs a course of projecting stones moulded a little, but coarsely:
the stones are artfully, though rudely cut; to which it is owing that
they are not fallen, as depending wholly on their own principles, and
the manner of their masonry, or geometry. Here terminates the famous
Watling-street, whose beginning in Dover valley I walked over in May
last. The road is here preserved, going by the river side to Aldford.
The ancient subterraneous canals are perfect still; their outlets into
the river under the city-walls are visible; and they say that they
are so high, that a man may walk upright their whole length. Wherever
they dig, they find subterraneous vaults and arches, and all manner
of antiquities; many of which were collected by the late Mr. Prescot,
prebend of the cathedral here, and now remain in the hands of his son.
The city is commodiously placed in an angle of the river, which washes
and protects two sides of it. As I said, it is an oblong square, 600
paces one way, 400 the other; that is, 3000 feet by 2000. Two principal
streets run its length at equal distances from the walls and each
other: one may be called _Principium_, having the gates at each end;
the other is _Quintana_: they are crossed in the middle by the _via
prætoria_, where are the gates _Decumana_ and _Prætoria_. Another
principal street runs on each side it, equidistant from it, and the
walls of the ends: these may be called _strigæ_. Other lesser streets,
or _hemistrigæ_, subdivide some of the squares made by the principals.
Thus must the original scheme be understood, when the military and
civil citizens first founded and inhabited the place. The little
difference now is caused by the cathedral and the castle: the castle,
the seat of Hugh Lupus, count palatine, and his successors, is built,
for the most part, beyond the limits of the Roman walls, in that angle
next the flexure of the river; consisting of a great court, and keep,
strongly walled, and fenced with a ditch: the city-wall carried still
round without it. To the north of the castle is some small remnant of
a nunnery. The meadow between the walls and the river here is called
Rood-eye, from a cross there, the stump whereof remains: upon this
they keep a horse-race. The city-walls are carefully repaired by the
corporation, and make an agreeable walk quite round: they are founded
intirely on the rock. The churches have every where, as in other
places, deformed the streets, which are originally the most noble and
spacious I have seen. The whole city has a descent every way from
the centre. The castle is rendered strong as the nature of the place
will allow of: here the earls called their courts of parliament, and
administered all affairs of state and judicature with regality.
Last year, digging in the chapter-house, they found the bodies of some
of the old earls palatine, wrapped up in leather sewed; but within
that, they were laid in woolen, like what we call wadding: the bones
are pretty perfect, but the flesh is gone. They showed us one, thought
to be Randulf Demeschin, the last earl, laid in a stone coffin; a place
left for his head: he lies on the right hand of Hugh Lupus, the first
earl.
They have built a large handsome exchange over-against the front of the
cathedral, with pillars of one stone. The city is not set precisely
east and west, though pretty near it. The ancient Roman gate at the
Watling-street was larger than the rest, because of the entrance of
the Roman ways there from _Condate_, _Bonium_, and the greatest part
of the kingdom; likewise for readier passage of the soldiers upon
occasion, most requisite that way; two of the other gates being fenced
by the river: therefore this extends in front to 80 foot. This city in
Roman times must have appeared admirably beautiful, with such spacious
streets: the tradesmens shops and houses I suppose then to have been
next the piazza’s of the streets; the soldiers tenements backwards,
with gardens into the squares, as it is at present. The river, which
once washed the city-walls, is now thrown off to some considerable
distance by salt-marshes: a dam too is made across it by the bridge,
for the sake of the mill; and by other mismanagements it grows worse
every day, so that ships cannot come up near the place; whence the only
little trade they have accruing from the passage into Ireland, is in
danger.
[Sidenote: TAB. LXVI.]
I saw at Mr. Prescot’s the Roman altar of Flavius Longus: it is very
intire, and very prettily ornamented. On the top where the _discus_
usually is, is cut the head of a Genius within a garland: on one side
is a Genius with a _cornucopia_; on the other, a flower-pot with leaves
of brank-ursin. It was found under a house by east-gate. He has more
fragments of antiquity; Roman bricks, square for paving, a foot each
side ; some marked LEG. XX. V. two inches and an eighth high; some
hollow bricks with a double cavity for hypocausts. He has likewise a
curious statue of the god Mithras with the Phrygian bonnet, and a torch
in his hands, standing cross-legged: it was found under a niche of the
wall, between east-gate and the river. Some of the bricks are thus
marked, LEG. XX. V. V. which demonstrates they mean the _legio vicesima
valeria victrix_. The altar has a square pedestal of one stone, which
it stood on: the back of the altar is carved with drapery, and a
festoon. Along with it was found a little earthen pot like a lamp; a
brass winged Genius, small; two brass _fibula_’s; all in Mr. Prescot’s
possession: he has likewise a brass camp-kettle, with two rings, 21
Roman inches high, found near here. The other inscription, which
his father had, of PRAESENGVNTA, is sent to Oxford. He has also
a very large collection of coins, brass, silver, and gold, most found
at Chester. A golden British bracelet weighing 19 guineas, found lately
in Wales, was melted down by a goldsmith here.
[Illustration: 66·2ᵈ.
_The_ Roman Altar _at yᵉ Revᵈ._ Mʳ Prescots, Chester. _4 Aug. 1725.
found there under a house by_ Eastgate.
_Stukeley design._ _Sturt sc._]
[Illustration: 67·2ᵈ.
_A Roman carving on a rock by the bridg at Chester. 3 Aug. 1725._
_Stukeley delin._]
[Illustration: 68·2ᵈ.
_Found at Risingham._ _Stukeley del._]
[Sidenote: TAB. LXVII.]
Walking beyond the river, I found the Roman way going to _Bonium_:
it answers precisely to the great street of the city, which I call
_principia_, and is extremely strait: it goes through Eccleston,
Easton, &c. Examining where it passed down by the bridge on the west
side, I was led to visit a rock hard by, over-against the castle:
there I discovered a Roman carving of a goddess, in a tabernacle, with
an altar: it was not in the least difficult to see the traces of a
Roman hand, through so many years, rubbing of cattle, and ill usage.
There is a seat hollowed out close by it, and which has taken away
part of a pillar, supporting the pediment. It is a figure of Pallas,
with a shield on her left arm: a belt from her left shoulder holds a
sword tied under her right arm, after the Roman mode: she has a spear
supporting her right hand: her under garments reach down to her feet.
The altar stands against one of the pillars, and has a little hole at
top of it. I wonder it has escaped ruin so long, placed so near a great
city, and so low that it is subject to all manner of injuries.
This city is of a most charming situation; the prospect around it
every way is august. The walls were repaired by queen Edelfleda. They
talk of king Egbert’s palace by St. John’s. Between Eastgate and the
river the Roman wall is pretty perfect for 100 yards together, made of
squarish-cut stones, the length inwards, with little mortar appearing
on the outside: I suppose they run it in along the inside liquid.
This was an admirable contrivance for strength: as the wall of the
gate was but one stone in thickness throughout; so by this means the
city-wall consisted of few stones in thickness. Mr. Prescot showed us
some urns, great and small, many fragments of _patera_’s of fine red
earth, found here; some with embossed work of flowers, animals, &c.
some with the potters’ marks at the bottom, particularly MACRINV
and CARAIED OFF. likewise many horns of little deer and other
animals found by the altar.
The village beyond the bridge is called Henbury, denoting its
antiquity. Many fragments, seemingly of pillars and capitals, set
for sitting-stones before the doors about the city, particularly in
Parson’s lane.
To the east of the cloisters is the building called the Chapter-house,
from the use it was put to; but I suppose it a _mausolæum_ of the earls
of Chester: it is on the north side of the choir; it is of an odd and
ancient kind of building: there is a _vestibulum_ to it, of a very
pretty model, which I have not seen elsewhere: the pillars are cabled,
without capitals, so that they resemble palm-trees. In the gateway
between this and the _mausolæum_ they showed us a coffin of stone,
or rather vault, of the length of a man, and proper depth (about six
foot): at the head was cut a cross; in the bottom lay the skeleton;
probably the first abbot made by the earls: they guess that to be Hugh
Lupus’s remains, which are buried in the very middle of the place.
There were found seven of these graves, correspondent to the number of
earls. Bishop Ripley, who built the body of the church, lies under a
brass in St. Mary’s chapel: behind the clock is a painting of him, with
Christ, St. Peter, and other figures, and much writing in Latin verse,
but defaced. St. Werburg’s shrine, foundress of the cathedral, was an
elegant structure of stone carved: little niches with gilt statues of
saints, men and women of the Saxon nobles, their names wrote upon
each, some still legible, all defaced, their heads broke off, &c. the
bishop’s throne is built upon it. There has been an ancient monastery
at St. John’s, much ruins of which remain. The cloysters have been
built since the _mausolæum_. They have a report that king Edgar’s
palace was upon that rock, by the river side, where the image of
Pallas is cut; but I think erroneously: it seems to have been a Roman
_villa_ and gardens of some learned commander. There are but two chief
streets of the city wanting, as plotted by the founders; on one stands
the cathedral: that answering it, on the opposite side of the city,
at present is but a foot-path, and lane across gardens, which have
encroached upon it on both sides. There are some Roman bricks in the
wall of the Friery, as observed by Mr. Gale. In one quadrangle by the
cloysters is a wall with Gothic arches, very much pointed, like that
at Peterburgh, engraven by Mr. Sparkes, V. p. 130. Edesburg was the
name of the Chamber in the Forest. At the great house over-against the
shambles is a hypocaust of the Romans, made of bricks all marked with
the twentieth legion. It is now the floor of the cellar.
LEVERPOOL.