The cloister occupies a space of 93 feet by 91 feet. It has been

surrounded by a vaulted walk, which has entirely disappeared. It is

evident that the cloister walk was at least partly vaulted from the

small remains of the springing of the vaults which are visible in the

eastern wall on each side of the doorway to the chapter house (see Fig.

413). From the way in which these springings die away to nothing against

the wall, without corbel or support of any kind, it is apparent that the

vaulting must have been of a late date. The corbels which supported the

top of the wooden roof over the vaulting are also still visible in the

east wall.

The south wall of the nave of the church extends along the north side of

the cloister. At the north-east angle is the doorway which led from the

cloister into the nave. It is a handsome specimen of the transition

style, having a circular arched head deeply recessed in four or five

orders, springing from three shafts, and two moulded members in the

jambs. It is noteworthy regarding this doorway that the two inner orders

of the jambs and arch had been removed and erected in private grounds,

and, after many years’ absence, were restored to their original position

only a short time ago.

The nave of the church is entered through this handsome doorway by ten

steps up from the cloister. It presents a scene of terrible destruction.

All the piers of the nave are demolished, and only slight traces of the

north wall remain; of the south wall, more is preserved. The west end

wall (Fig. 418), however, has to some extent escaped destruction, and

shows by the responds attached to it the form of the nave piers, with

their caps and bases. The position of the piers along the nave is now

roughly indicated by a collection of fragments arranged, as nearly as

possible, in the original position and form. The mouldings indicate a

late date, and were, doubtless, restorations; but the responds, which

were not so liable to destruction, are of first pointed date. The

responds which form part of the west wall show that there was a central

nave 28 feet wide and side aisles, each about 13 feet 6 inches wide,

making a total width of 55 feet. There have been side chapels in the

nave, apparently divided by walls, some portions of which remain, with

ambries in the chapels.

The western doorway (Fig. 419) has a round arched head, but its details

show that it is of late design. This part of the edifice has apparently

been restored in the fifteenth century, after the destruction of the

abbey by Richard II. in the end of the fourteenth century.

The transept has a slight projection to the north and south. It is 80

feet in length internally from north to south and 37 feet in width,

including an eastern aisle.

This part of the building and all to the east of it are evidently of

[Illustration: FIG. 422.--Dryburgh Abbey. Choir-Aisle and North

Transept.]

thirteenth century work, but, unfortunately, only a few detached

portions remain. These include (see Fig. 412) the very picturesque gable

of the south transept, with its large window filled with simple pointed

tracery, rising in steps above the roof of the dormitory (Fig. 420). The

arch through which the stair to the dormitory passed is visible in this

wall. (See Fig. 420.)

To the east of the transept is a choir of two bays, with aisles, beyond

which is an aisleless presbytery, 42 feet long by 24 feet wide, now

almost reduced to foundations. The buttresses and base course are

traceable, and a doorway in the north-east angle, which probably led to

a small staircase. The portion of the structure still preserved to the

north is a part of the north transept wall, with the eastern aisle of

the transept and the two north bays of the choir (Fig. 421).

These portions are of very beautiful design, both internally and

externally. The exterior (Fig. 422) is of very simple, but elegant,

first pointed work, while the interior shows symptoms of somewhat more

advanced design. The angle pier of the crossing and the piers of the

choir consist of round shafts with fillets, divided by square angles.

These are surmounted by moulded caps, with round abacus and first

pointed mouldings. From these spring the pier arches, composed of three

orders of plain splays, with hood moulding. Over the main arches is a

low triforium marked by string courses above and below. It has flat

arched openings filled in with circles having six cusps.

The clerestory is of beautiful design. Each bay contains an arcade of

three arches, the central one, which is opposite the window, being

larger than the side arches. The arches are supported on detached piers,

behind which runs a gallery. These piers each consist of two shafts,

with central fillet. They have first pointed round caps, over which a

round block receives the arch mouldings as they descend.

A small portion of the north end of the transept adjoins the above,

which shows that the structure has been carried up in two stories of

richly moulded windows (see Fig. 420), all in the same style as the

adjoining portion of the choir. The remaining portion of the aisle is

vaulted with moulded ribs springing from responds and corbels

corresponding in style with the choir.

The whole of this part of the church is of very fine design and

workmanship, but it is, unfortunately, a mere fragment. Additional

interest attaches to it from its forming the last resting-place of Sir

Walter Scott and members of his family.

AIRTH CHURCH.[197]

This ruined church adjoins the old Castle of Airth, which lies half a

mile from the Forth and eight miles south-east of Stirling. The church

is in part a building of considerable antiquity, dating from the

transition period about the end of the twelfth or the beginning of the

thirteenth century, but it has undergone many alterations, and only a

small part of the early structure remains. The building as it now stands

(Fig. 423) consists of a

[Illustration: FIG. 423.--Airth Church. Plan.]

nave and chancel, having a south wing or aisle, containing the Airth

vault, and forming a transept, with a tower at the re-entering angle of

the Airth aisle, and with indications of an aisle on the north side of

the choir. There are also two burial vaults attached to the building,

one on the north side and the other at the south-west angle, called

respectively the Bruce and Elphinstone aisles. The internal length of

the church is 79 feet 3 inches by about 19 feet 9 inches in breadth. The

most ancient part of the church (Fig. 424) is on the north side of the

nave, and consists of a bay of what has been a nave arcade, opening into

a north aisle. One pillar and respond (tinted black on the Plan), with

the connecting round arch, still

[Illustration: FIG. 424.--Airth Church. North Arcade.]

stand. The original arcade probably consisted of three bays extending to

near the west gable, where there are indications, at the ground level,

of what appears to have been the western respond. Whether there was

originally a south arcade or not cannot now be determined, as this part

has been entirely rebuilt, and all traces of the north and south aisles

of the nave, if there was a south aisle, have perished. The existing

north bay is 11 feet 3 inches wide, and the pillar, which is circular,

is about 17 inches in diameter. It has a capital, carved with simple

foliage (Fig. 425), and has a square abacus. The arch has a double set

of plain arch stones, with plain soffit.

The few details which survive are extremely interesting, and show this

to have been a building of some importance. Behind the above bay now

stands the burial aisle of the Bruces of Powfoulis. It bears over the

doorway the initials of Sir James Bruce and his wife, Dame Margaret

Rollox, of Duncrub, and on another part the date 1614. It seems probable

that this, as well as the other aisles shown on Plan, contained, on the

upper floor, the family seats or galleries of the respective houses

whose arms they bear, and a burial vault beneath.

[Illustration: FIG. 425.--Airth Church. Cap of Pillar.]

Judging from the few details left, the Airth aisle is a structure of the

fifteenth century. It measures about 24 feet 3 inches long by 13 feet 3

inches wide, and has contained a large traceried south window, which is

now destroyed, and brought to the condition shown in Fig. 426. The

external hood moulding of the window remains with nicely carved

terminations (Fig. 427). Beneath this window is seen the top of an

arched tomb, in which probably the recumbent effigy (Fig. 428) once lay.

There is a small square-headed window in the east wall, divided by a

mullion; but, as appears from its mouldings, it is an insertion of

perhaps the seventeenth century. Adjoining this is the usual ambry.

Beneath this aisle is the burial vault (indicated by dotted lines on the

Plan), which is reached by the stair shown. On the outside of the east

wall there is a niche for a statue (Fig. 429). It has the usual canopy

and bracket so frequent on the churches of this late period. The bracket

(Fig. 430) contains the Bruce arms--viz., the chief and saltier; the

chief being charged with two incised cinquefoils, which may point to an

alliance with the Livingstone family. The same arms, but without the

cinquefoils,

[Illustration: FIG. 426.--Airth Church. The Airth Aisle, looking South.]

appear beneath each of the first crow steps of the gable. This aisle was

probably erected by Alexander Bruce of Stenhous and first of Airth (1452

to 1483), who was a son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan,[198] and is

stated to have married (first) Janet, daughter of the first Lord

Livingstone, by whom he had no issue. It was probably “our Ladie Aisle,

founded and situated on the south side of the Kirk of Airth,” the

chaplainrie of which was presented by Sir Alexander Bruce of

[Illustration: FIG. 427.--Airth Church. Terminations.]

Airth, the patron, to Robert Bruce, younger, his son, on 30th October

1572.

[Illustration: FIG. 428.--Airth Church. Effigy.]

The effigy (see Fig. 428), which, as already stated, probably occupied

the tomb in the Airth aisle, lies at present in a mutilated state in the

[Illustration: FIG. 429.--Niche for Statue.]

[Illustration: FIG. 430.--Bracket.]

[Illustration: FIG. 431.--Stone in Airth Castle.]

eastern portion of the church. There is no certainty whom the recumbent

figure represents, but it is in all likelihood an effigy of one of the

ladies of either the family of Erth or of the Bruces of Airth. It has

been stated that another effigy lies beside the one referred to, but we

understand from a person who has examined the ground that nothing of the

kind is to be found. This effigy, which is 6 feet 3 inches long by 1

foot 10 inches in breadth, is greatly mutilated; but the coverlet

extending from the waist downwards is well preserved, and is very finely

carved, and, so far as we know, is unique amongst Scottish figures.

In Airth Castle is preserved the stone shown in Fig. 431. It appears to

have been taken from the church and to have formed a part of a piscina

or ambry. The fragment measures about 2 feet high, with an opening about

12½ inches wide. It doubtless belonged to the Airth aisle.

[Illustration: FIG. 432.--Airth Church. Stone in South Gable of

Elphinstone Aisle.]

The Elphinstone aisle, which is separated from the nave by a

semicircular arch, presents no architectural features of note; but on

the exterior of the gable towards the south there is a well-preserved

stone (Fig. 432), with shield bearing the Elphinstone arms, parted per

pale with those of Livingstone and Calendar quarterly, with the motto

“Cavis Cavis” (Caus Caus), the date 1593, and at either side the letters

M A ♢ E and I ♢ L ME, the initials of Alexander, fourth Lord

Elphinstone, and his wife Jane, eldest daughter of William, sixth Lord

Livingstone.

The tower contains, on the lintel of the doorway, the inscription I V L

Y + THE + 15 + 1647, doubtless the date of its erection. The other parts

of the church appear to be of late seventeenth century work, and need

not be further referred to.

LASSWADE CHURCH, MID-LOTHIAN.

Lasswade is a village on the south bank of the river Esk, about six

miles south from Edinburgh. The old Parish Church stood, till 1866, in

the ancient churchyard, on a height above the south side of the river.

“It became a mensal church of the Bishopric of St. Andrews in the

twelfth century, forming a prebend of St. Salvator’s Church; but was

annexed to the Collegiate Church of Restalrig, in the reign of King

James III.”[199]

[Illustration: FIG. 433.--Lasswade Church. Plan.]

The old structure having become unsuitable, a new church was erected in

1793, and the old building was allowed to fall into ruins. Some

portions, however, were preserved, and converted into mausoleums. In one

of these aisles lie the remains of Henry Dundas, first Lord Melville; in

another is buried the poet Drummond of Hawthornden.

The old church (Fig. 433) consisted of a single oblong chamber 20 feet

in width, with a tower 16 feet square at the west end. The aisles, or

[Illustration: FIG. 434.--Lasswade Church. East, West, and North

Elevations.]

mausoleums, above referred to, are projected from the north side. The

westmost is roofed with stone slabs, and has a picturesque appearance.

The tower and a portion of the church were of considerable age, and may

be classed as Transition work. In 1866 the tower had become much crushed

and dangerous. While steps were being taken by the heritors

[Illustration: FIG. 435.--Lasswade Church. South Elevation.]

to have it strengthened the tower fell. The accompanying drawings were

made before that event.

The tower (Fig. 434) was three stories in height, besides the gables of

the saddle roof which crowned it. The entrance to the tower was from the

inside of the church by a round-headed doorway (see East Elevation),

with simple impost and plain arch with hood moulding. Above this was a

large round-arched opening into the roof of the church. The two lower

stories had narrow pointed windows. The top story had double-pointed

lights, with central mullion in each face. This story had an enriched

cornice, above which rose the east and west gables, each with a small

round-headed window. A door had been knocked into the tower on the south

side (Fig. 435), which, doubtless, helped to weaken it.

In a portion of the south wall of the church, near the tower, there was

preserved an original doorway (see Fig. 435) about 5 feet 6 inches wide.

It resembled that to the tower in design, having plain jambs, with a

string course forming the imposts, and a plain round arch above,

enclosed with a hood moulding. All the above features seem to point to

the structure being one of the first half of the thirteenth century.

Annexed is a sketch of the effigy of a knight in armour (Fig. 436),

which is lying in the churchyard. There is no record of the knight’s

name.

[Illustration: FIG. 436.--Effigy in Churchyard.]

BATHGATE CHURCH, LINLITHGOWSHIRE.

About one mile east from the town of Bathgate stands the old ruined

church, surrounded by an ancient burial-ground. It is a long, narrow,

[Illustration: FIG. 437.--Bathgate Church. Plan.]

ivy-covered building (Fig. 437), measuring internally about 91 feet 2

inches from east to west by 19 feet 5 inches from north to south, with

walls from 3 to 4 feet in thickness. The doorway, which was probably

round arched, is almost the only feature of its architecture left. The

opening is unusually wide, showing 7 feet of daylight (see Fig. 437),

and, judging from its details, the church belonged to the transitional

period. The doorway was decorated with shafts placed in square nooks or

recesses, with carved capitals having the square abacus, a certain

feature of early work. (Fig. 438.) Both inside and outside the walls are

so entirely covered either with ivy or tombstones that almost no part of

the masonry can be seen; only one small window on the north side, about

six inches wide, being partly visible.

[Illustration: FIG. 438.--Bathgate Church. Caps.]

The grave slab (Fig. 439) has lately been fixed into the south wall.

Some time ago it was lying on the floor. It measures 6 feet 2 inches

long by 2 feet 3 inches wide, and bears a beautifully lettered

inscription to the memory of Andreas Crichton. In the centre of the slab

there is a cross, with the Calvary steps, and beneath the cross limb a

shield with the Crichton arms (a lion rampant), and on the dexter side a

long sword.

In the Exchequer Rolls for the year 1497, Andrew Crichton of Drumcorse

(the name of the estate adjoining the church on the north) first comes

into view. On the 1st May 1502, Crichton entered office as the

Chamberlain of the Lordship of Linlithgowshire. He presents his accounts

yearly, his last being rendered from July 1513 to July 1514, when he

presumably died. His monumental slab was, doubtless, carved shortly

after that date.

There is a very beautiful recumbent statue (Fig. 440) lying in the

church. It appears to be an early work, but no record exists to tell

whose memory it commemorates.

[Illustration: FIG. 439.--Bathgate Church. Slab in Church to Andreas

Crichton.]

Malcolm IV. (1153 to 1165) granted the church of “Bathket,” with certain

lands, to Holyrood.[200] Robert, Bishop of St. Andrews, who died about

1159, confirmed those grants. There was, further, a Papal confirmation

in 1164. In 1251, by a taxation of churches in the diocese of St.

Andrews, the vicar of the Church of Bathgate was to receive 12 merks of

the altar dues, to be assigned him at the sight of William, Archdeacon

of Lothian, and Master Alexander, of Edinburgh. This was confirmed by

Bishop Gamelin.

[Illustration: FIG. 440.--Bathgate Church. Effigy.]

The church and lands were afterwards given by the monks of Holyrood to

Newbotle, in payment of arrears of rent for lands and salt works in the

Carse of Callender, and this was confirmed by Bishop Landels, of St.

Andrews, in 1327.[201] The church remained with Newbotle, and was served

by a vicar till the Reformation.

The old church was probably abandoned in 1739, when a new church was

erected in the town of Bathgate.

[Illustration: From Dryburgh Abbey.]

INDEX.

Abb’s, St., Chapel, 437.

Abercorn Church, description, 346.

Aberdeen Cathedral, 47.

---- St. Nicholas, description, 426.

Abernethy Tower, 11, 15, 26;

description, 175.

Adamnan, 11.

Aidan, St., 11.

Airth Church, description, 465.

Alexander I., 29.

---- II. and III., 50.

Allen, J. Romilly, 2.

Alnwick, 47.

Anchorites, 1.

Anderson, Dr. Joseph, 2, 3, 66.

Antiquaries of Scotland, 101.

Arbroath Abbey, 38, 47, 48, 49.

Arched style of building, 32.

Architecture, Scottish, of Fourteenth to Sixteenth Centuries, 50.

---- Division of, 53.

---- Ceases to be like English, 52.

---- Connection with French, 52.

Ardoilean, 8.

Armstrong, R. B., 465.

Augustine, St., 12.

Aula, St., Gress, Lewis, 83.

Bangor Monastery, 5.

Bathgate Church, description, 474.

Bede, 12.

Beehive Cells, 7, 24, 68.

Benedict Biscop, 12.

Beverley Minster, 54.

Birnie, St. Brandon’s, description, 218.

Birsay, Brough of, 135.

Blane’s, St., Bute, description, 292.

Boniface, St., 14.

Boswell’s, St., description, 377.

Brandon’s, St., Birnie, 218.

Brechin Cathedral, 49, 57.

---- Tower, 26, 48.

---- Maison Dieu, 48.

Brendan, St., 67.

Brude, King, 10.

Bunkle Church, description, 314.

Burgundy, 35.

Bute, St. Blane’s, 292.

Buttresses introduced, 34.

Caithness Cathedral, 47.

Cambuskenneth Abbey, 30.

_Candida Casa_, 3, 5.

Canmore, Malcolm, 15, 29.

Canterbury Cathedral, 12.

Cara, Gigha, Kintyre, 82.

Carinish, North Uist, 81.

Carmaig, St., Eilean Mor, 90.

---- Knapdale, 84.

Cashels, Irish, 7.

Catan’s, St., Kintyre, 95.

Cathedrals, Scottish, 49.

Caves, 5.

Cellach, 15.

Celtic Art, 1.

---- Church, 65.

---- Churches standing alone, 78.

---- ---- built with chancel and nave, 93.

---- ---- with pointed or late features, 95.

---- Structures in Scotland, 65.

Chancel architecturally distinguished, 79.

---- added to nave, 79.

Chirnside Church, description, 322.

Churches, dry built, 80.

---- oblong, modified, 82.

---- with nave and chancel added, 88.

---- on islands, 105.

---- in Orkney, 113.

Clonmacnoise, 10.

Coalisport, Loch, 10.

Coldingham Priory, 30, 48;

description, 437.

Columba, St., 5, 10, 67, 69.

---- Church, Balivanich, 88.

---- ---- Ey., Lewis, 91.

---- ---- Kiels, Kintyre, 92.

---- Isle, Lewis, 97.

Columban Church, 11, 12, 13.

---- Churches, 25.

Collegiate Churches, 51, 60.

Comgall, St., 5.

Cormac’s Chapel, 28.

Crosses, 9, 10, 17, 20.

Cross, St., Church, 36.

Crosraguel Abbey, 57, 58.

Cruggleton Church, description, 212.

Culbinsbrough Church, Bressay, 157.

Culdees, 14, 15, 30.

Culross Abbey, 48.

Cuthbert, St., 5, 12.

Dalmeny Church, 38;

description, 298.

Dalriada, 10.

David I., 29, 30, 38.

Decorated Architecture, 52, 53.

Deerness, Brough of, 68, 101.

Denis, St., 40.

“Deserts,” 8.

Devenish, Round Tower, 27.

Dioceses, Scottish, 29.

Doorways, 55.

Drummond, James, 2.

Dryburgh Abbey, 38, 47, 48, 49, 57;

description, 448.

Dryden, Sir Henry, 3, 68, 101, 172.

Duddingston Church, 39;

description, 333.

Dunblane Cathedral, 38, 48, 49, 50.

Dundrennan Abbey, 30, 47, 48;

description, 388.

Dunfermline Abbey, 38;

description, 230.

Dunkeld Cathedral, 47, 49, 62.

Dunning, St. Serf’s, description, 204.

Dun Othail, Lewis, 81.

Duns Church, description, 381.

Dunstaffnage Castle, 48.

Durham Cathedral, 37.

Edinburgh Castle, Chapel, 29;

description, 224.

Edrom Church, 316.

Edward I., 51.

Egilsey, Orkney, Church on, 26, 127.

---- Choir, 100.

Eilean Naomh, 66.

---- Mòr, 77, 89.

---- Munde, 83.

Elgin Cathedral, 47, 48, 49.

English Cathedrals, 40, 43.

England, Church in, 12.

Enhallow, Orkney, 116.

Eorrapidh, Lewis, 99.

Farne Island, 12.

Finnian, St., School of, 5.

First Pointed Style, 39.

---- ---- in Scotland, 46.

“Flamboyant” Style, 2, 57, 58.

Flannain Isles, 77.

Fortrose Cathedral, 57.

France, Architecture in, 40, 42, 43.

Galloway, William, 297.

Gallowhead, 80.

Germany, 35.

Giles’, St., Edinburgh, 49, 51, 57, 60, 62.

Giric, King, 15.

Glasgow, Bishop of, 29.

---- Cathedral, 47, 48, 49, 50, 57, 58.

Gothic Architecture in Scotland, 2.

Gullane, St. Andrew’s, 339.

Haddington, St. Martin’s, description, 362.

Halcro Chapel, South Ronaldshay, 105.

Head of Holland, Church at, 105.

Helen’s, St., Church, description, 323.

Herdmanston Font, description, 384.

Hermits’ Cells, 73.

Hexham, 12.

Holy Cross Church, Lewis, 83.

Holyrood Abbey, 30, 38, 47, 48.

Howmore, South Uist, 70.

Inchcolm Abbey, 29, 48.

---- Oratory, 24.

Inch Kenneth, Ulva, 98.

---- Mull, 165.

Inchmahome, 48.

Iona, 10, 11, 14.

---- Cathedral, 49, 62.

Iona, Carved Slabs, 23.

---- The Nunnery, description, 421.

Irish influence, 2, 9.

---- Style of building, 8, 9.

---- Round Towers, 26, 27, 28.

Islands, Churches on, 8.

---- Western, Architecture of, 65, 80.

Jarkow, 12, 13.

Jedburgh Abbey, 38, 49;

description, 398.

John the Baptist, Church of, Lewis, 95.

---- St., Kirk of, Unst, 148.

Kelso Abbey, 38, 49;

description, 347.

Kentigern, St., 11.

Kevin, St., Cell of, 9.

Kiels, Knapdale, 84.

Kilbar, Barra, 71, 72.

Kilbride, Knapdale, 98.

Kilchenich, Tiree, 88.

Kilchenzie, Kintyre, 93.

Kilchieran, Islay, 96.

Kilchieven, Kintyre, 100.

Kilchoman Cross, 22.

Kilchouslan, Kintyre, 92.

Kildalton, Islay, 96.

Killean, Kintyre, 98.

Kilmory, Knapdale, 85.

Kilmuir, Skye, 84.

Kilnaughton, Islay, 96.

Kilneave, Islay, 96.

Kilrimont, 11.

King’s College, Aberdeen, 62.

Kinloss Abbey, 30;

description, 416.

Kintyre, 3, 10, 82.

Kirkaby, Westray, Shetland, 147.

Kirkapoll, Tiree, 87.

Kirkliston, description, 366.

Kirkmadrine, Crosses at, 4.

Kirkmaiden, description, 383.

Kirkwall, St. Magnus’ Cathedral, 38, 48, 50;

description, 259.

---- St. Ola, 109.

Laggan, Mull, 98.

Lamington Church, description, 376.

Lanark Church, 50.

Lasswade Church, description, 471.

Late or Third Pointed Style, 58.

---- in Scotland, 60.

Legerwood Church, description, 320.

Leuchars Church, 38;

description, 309.

Lewis, Butt of, 75.

Lincluden College, 57.

Lincoln Cathedral, 45, 47.

Lindisfarne, 11.

Linlithgow Church, 57.

Linton Church, Roxburghshire, description, 378.

Linton, Shapinsay, 122.

Logierait Cross, 18.

Lombardy, 35.

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