men. Prouisions fit for such discoueries.] We were in number in all about
260 men: among whom we had of euery faculty good choice, as Shipwrights,
Masons, Carpenters, Smithes, and such like, requisite to such an action:
also Minerall men and Refiners. Besides, for solace of our people, and
allurement of the Sauages, we were prouided of Musike in good variety: not
omitting the least toyes, as Morris dancers, Hobby horsse, and Maylike
conceits to delight the Sauage people, whom we intended to winne by all
faire meanes possible. And to that end we were indifferently furnished of
all petty haberdasherie wares to barter with those people.
In this maner we set forward, departing (as hath bene said) out of Causon
bay the eleuenth day of Iune being Tuesday, the weather and winde faire and
good all day, but a great storme of thunder and winde fell the same night.
[Sidenote: Obserue.] Thursday following, when we hailed one another in the
euening according (to the order before specified) they signified vnto vs
out of the Vizadmirall that both the Captaine, and very many of the men
were fallen sicke, And about midnight the Vizeadmirall forsooke vs,
notwithstanding we had the winde East, faire and good. But it was after
credibly reported, that they were infected with a contagious sicknesse, and
arriued greatly distressed at Plimmoth: the reason I could neuer
vnderstand. Sure I am, no cost was spared by their owner Master Raleigh in
setting them forth: Therfore I leaue it vnto God.
By this time we were in 48 degrees of latitude, not a little grieued with
the losse of the most puissant ship in our fleete: after whose departure,
the Golden Hind succeeded in the place of Vizadmirall, and remooued her
flagge from the mizon vnto the foretop.
From Saturday the 15 of Iune vntill the 28, which was vpon a Friday, we
neuer had faire day without fogge or raine, and windes bad, much to the
West northwest, whereby we were driuen Southward vnto 41 degrees scarse.
About this time of the yere the winds are commonly West towards the
Newfound land, keeping ordinarily within two points of West to the South or
to the North, whereby the course thither falleth out to be long and tedious
after Iune, which in March, Apriell and May, hath bene performed out of
England in 22 dayes and lesse. We had winde alwayes so scant from West
northwest, and from West southwest againe, that our trauerse was great,
running South vnto 41 degrees almost, and afterward North into 51 degrees.
[Sidenote: Great fogges vpon the Ocean sea Northward.] Also we were
incombred with much fogge and mists in maner palpable, in which we could
not keepe so well together, but were disseuered, losing the company of the
Swallow and the Squirrill vpon the 20. day of Iuly, whom we met againe at
seuerall places vpon the Newfound land coast the third of August, as shalbe
declared in place conuenient.
Saturday the 27 of Iuly, we might descry not farre from vs, as it were
mountaines of yce driuen vpon the sea, being then in 50 degrees, which were
caried Southward to the weather of vs: whereby may be coniectured that some
current doth set that way from the North.
Before we come to Newfound land about 50 leagues on this side, we passe the
banke, [Marginal note: The banke in length vnknowen, stretcheth from North
into South, in bredth 10. leagues, in depth of water vpon it 30. fadome.]
which are high grounds rising within the sea and vnder water, yet deepe
enough and without danger, being commonly not lesse then 25 and 30 fadome
water vpon them: the same (as it were some vaine of mountaines within the
sea) doe runne along, and from the Newfound land, beginning Northward about
52 or 53 degrees of latitude, and do extend into the South infinitly. The
bredth of this banke is somewhere more, and somewhere lesse: but we found
the same about 10 leagues ouer, hauing sounded both on this side thereof,
and the other toward Newfound land, but found no ground with almost 200
fadome of line, both before and after we had passed the banke.[100]
[Sidenote: A great fishing vpon the banke.] The Portugals, and French
chiefly, haue a notable trade of fishing vpon this banke, where are
sometimes an hundred or more sailes of ships: who commonly beginne the
fishing in Apriell, and haue ended by Iuly. That fish is large, alwayes
wet, hauing no land neere to drie, and is called Corre fish.
[Sidenote: Abundance of foules.] During the time of fishing, a man shall
know without sounding when he is vpon the banke, by the incredible
multitude of sea foule houering ouer the same, to prey vpon the offalles
and garbish of fish throwen out by fishermen, and floting vpon the sea.
[Sidenote: First sight of land.] Vpon Tuesday the 11 of Iune, we forsooke
the coast of England. So againe Tuesday the 30 of Iuly (seuen weekes after)
we got sight of land, being immediatly embayed in the Grand bay, or some
other great bay: the certainty whereof we could not iudge, so great hase
and fogge did hang vpon the coast, as neither we might discerne the land
well, nor take the sunnes height. But by our best computation we were then
in the 51 degrees of latitude.
Forsaking this bay and vncomfortable coast (nothing appearing vnto vs but
hideous rockes and mountaines, bare of trees, and voide of any greene
herbe) we followed the coast to the South, with weather faire and cleare.
[Sidenote: Iland and a foule named Penguin.] We had sight of an Iland named
Penguin, of a foule there breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which
cannot flie, their wings not able to carry their body, being very large
(not much lesse then a goose) and exceeding fat: which the French men vse
to take without difficulty vpon that Iland, and to barrell them vp with
salt. But for lingering of time we had made vs there the like prouision.
[Sidenote: An Iland called Baccaloas, of the fish taken there.] Trending
this coast, we came to the Iland called Baccalaos, being not past two
leagues from the maine: to the South thereof lieth Cape S. Francis, 5.
leagues distant from Baccalaos, between which goeth in a great bay by the
vulgar sort called the bay of Conception. Here we met with the Swallow
againe, whom we had lost in the fogge, and all her men altered into other
apparell: whereof it seemed their store was so amended, that for ioy and
congratulation of our meeting, they spared not to cast vp into the aire and
ouerboord, their caps and hats in good plenty. The Captaine albeit himselfe
was very honest and religious, yet was he not appointed of men to his humor
and desert: who for the most part were such as had bene by vs surprised
vpon the narrow seas of England, being pirats and had taken at that instant
certaine Frenchmen laden, one barke with wines, and another with salt. Both
which we rescued, and tooke the man of warre with all her men, which was
the same ship now called the Swallow, following still their kind so oft, as
(being separated from the Generall) they found opportunitie to robbe and
spoile. And because Gods iustice did follow the same company, euen to
destruction, and to the ouerthrow also of the Captaine (though not
consenting to their misdemeanor) I will not conceale any thing that maketh
to the manifestation and approbation of his iudgements, for examples of
others, perswaded that God more sharpely tooke reuenge vpon them, and hath
tolerated longer as great outrage in others: by how much these went vnder
protection of his cause and religion, which was then pretended.
[Sidenote: Misdemeanor of them in the Swallow.] Therefore vpon further
enquiry it was knowen, how this company met with a barke returning home
after the fishing with his fraight: and because the men in the Swallow were
very neere scanted of victuall, and chiefly of apparell, doubtful withall
where or when to find and meete with their Admiral, they besought the
captaine they might go aboord this Newlander, only to borrow what might be
spared, the rather because the same was bound homeward. Leaue giuen, not
without charge to deale fauourably, they came aboord the fisherman, whom
they rifled of tackle, sailes, cables, victuals, and the men of their
apparell: not sparing by torture (winding cords about their heads) to draw
out else what they thought good. This done with expedition (like men
skilfull in such mischiefe) as they tooke their cocke boate to go aboord
their own ship, it was ouerwhelmed in the sea, and certaine of these men
were drowned: the rest were preserued euen by those silly soules whom they
had before spoyled, who saued and deliuered them aboord the Swallow. What
became afterward of the poore Newlander, perhaps destitute of sayles and
furniture sufficient to carry them home (whither they had not lesse to
runne then 700 leagues) God alone knoweth, who tooke vengeance not long
after of the rest that escaped at this instant: to reueale the fact, and
iustifie to the world Gods iudgements inflicted vpon them, as shal be
declared in place conuenient.
Thus after we had met with the Swallow, we held on our course Southward,
vntill we came against the harbor called S. Iohn, about 5 leagues from the
former Cape of S. Francis: where before the entrance into the harbor, we
found also the Frigate or Squirrill lying at anker. Whom the English
marchants (that were and alwaies be Admirals [Marginal note: English ships
are the strongest and Admirals of other fleetes, fishing vpon the South
parts of Newfound land.] by turnes interchangeably ouer the fleetes of
fisherman within the same harbor) would not permit to enter into the
harbor. Glad of so happy meeting both of the Swallow and Frigate in one day
(being Saturday the 3. of August) we made readie our fights, and prepared
to enter the harbor, any resistance to the contrarie notwithstanding, there
being within of all nations, to the number of 36 sailes. But first the
Generall dispatched a boat to giue them knowledge of his comming for no ill
intent, hauing Commission from her Maiestie for his voiage he had in hand.
And immediatly we followed with a slacke gale, and in the very entrance
(which is but narrow, not aboue 2 buts length) the Admirall fell vpon a
rocke on the larboard side by great ouersight, in that the weather was
faire, the rocke much aboue water fast by the shore, where neither went any
sea gate. But we found such readinesse in the English Marchants to helpe vs
in that danger, that without delay there were brought a number of boates,
which towed off the ship, and cleared her of danger.
Hauing taken place conuenient in the road, we let fall ankers, the
Captaines and Masters repairing aboord our Admirall: whither also came
immediatly the Masters and owners of the fishing fleete of Englishmen to
vnderstand the Generals intent and cause of our arriuall there. They were
all satisfied when the General had shewed his commission, and purpose to
take possession of those lands to the behalfe of the crowne of England, and
the aduancement of Christian religion in those Paganish regions, requiring
but their lawfull ayde for repayring of his fleete, and supply of some
necessaries, so farre as might conueniently be afforded him, both out of
that and other harbors adioyning. In lieu whereof, he made offer to
gratifie them, with any fauour and priueledge, which vpon their better
aduise they should demand, the like being not to be obteyned hereafter for
greater price. So crauing expedition of his demand, minding to proceede
further South without long detention in those partes, he dismissed them,
after promise giuen of their best indeuour to satisfie speedily his so
reasonable request. The marchants with their Masters departed, they caused
forthwith to be discharged all the great Ordinance of their fleete in token
of our welcome.
[Sidenote: Good order taken by English marchants for our supply in Newfound
land.] It was further determined that euery ship of our fleete should
deliuer vnto the marchants and Masters of that harbour a note of all their
wants: which done, the ships aswell English as strangers, were taxed at an
easie rate to make supply. And besides, Commissioners were appointed, part
of our owne companie and part of theirs, to go into other harbours
adioyning (for our English marchants command all there) to leauie our
prouision: whereunto the Portugals (aboue other nations) did most willingly
and liberally contribute. Insomuch as we were presented (aboue our
allowance) with wines, marmalads, most fine ruske or bisket, sweet oyles
and sundry delicacies. Also we wanted not of fresh salmons, trouts,
lobsters and other fresh fish brought daily vnto vs. Moreouer as the maner
is in their fishing, euery weeke to choose their Admirall a new, or rather
they succeede in orderly course, and haue weekely their Admirals feast
solemnized: [Sidenote: Good entertainment in Newfound land.] euen so the
General, Captaines and masters of our fleete were continually inuited and
feasted. [Sidenote: No Sauages in the South part of Newfound land.] To grow
short, in our abundance at home, the intertainment had bene delightfull,
but after our wants and tedious passage through the Ocean, it seemed more
acceptable and of greater contentation, by how much the same was vnexpected
in that desolate corner of the world: where at other times of the yeare,
wilde beasts and birds haue only the fruition of all those countries, which
now seemed a place very populous and much frequented.
The next morning being Sunday and the 4 of August, the Generall and his
company were brought on land by English marchants, who shewed vnto vs their
accustomed walks vnto a place they call the Garden. But nothing appeared
more then Nature it selfe without art: who confusedly hath brought forth
roses abundantly, wilde, but odoriferous, and to sense very comfortable.
Also the like plentie of raspis berries, which doe grow in euery place.
[Sidenote: Possession taken.] Monday following, the Generall had his tent
set vp, who being accompanied with his own followers, summoned the
marchants and masters, both English and strangers to be present at his
taking possession of those Countries. Before whom openly was read and
interpreted vnto the strangers his Commission: by vertue whereof he tooke
possession in the same harbour of S. Iohn, and 200 leagues euery way,
inuested the Queenes Maiestie with the title and dignitie thereof, had
deliuered vnto him (after the custome of England) a rod and a turffe of the
same soile, entring possession also for him, his heires and assignes for
euer: And signified vnto al men, that from that time forward, they should
take the same land as a territorie appertaining to the Queene of England,
and himselfe authorised vuder her Maiestie to possesse and enioy it, And to
ordaine lawes for the gouernement thereof, agreeable (so neere as
conueniently might be) vnto the lawes of England: vnder which all people
coming thither hereafter, either to inhabite, or by way of traffique,
should be subiected and gouerned. [Sidenote: Three Lawes.] And especially
at the same time for a beginning, he proposed and deliuered three lawes to
be in force immediatly. That is to say: the first for Religion, which in
publique exercise should be according to the Church of England. The 2. for
maintenance of her Maiesties right and possession of those territories,
against which if any thing were attempted preiudiciall the partie or
parties offending should be adiudged and executed as in case of high
treason, according to the lawes of England. The 3. if any person should
vtter words sounding to the dishonour of her Maiestie, he should loose his
eares, and haue his ship and goods confiscate.
These contents published, obedience was promised by generall voyce and
consent of the multitude aswell of Englishmen as strangers, praying for
continuance of this possession and gouernement begun. After this, the
assembly was dismissed. And afterward were erected not farre from that
place the Armes of England ingrauen in lead, and infixed vpon a pillar of
wood. [Sidenote: Actuall possession maintained in Newfound land.] Yet
further and actually to establish this possession taken in the right of her
Maiestie, and to the behoofe of Sir Humfrey Gilbert knight, his heires and
assignes for euer: the Generall granted in fee farme diuers parcels of land
lying by the water side, both in this harbor of S. Iohn, and elsewhere,
which was to the owners a great commoditie, being thereby assured (by their
proper inheritance) of grounds conuenient to dresse and to drie their fish,
whereof many times before they did faile, being preuented by them that came
first into the harbor. For which grounds they did couenant to pay a
certaine rent and seruice vnto sir Humfrey Gilbert, his heires or assignes
for euer, and yeerely to maintaine possession of the same, by themselues or
their assignes.
Now remained only to take in prouision granted, according as euery shippe
was taxed, which did fish vpon the coast adioyning. [Sidenote: Men
appointed to make search.] In the meane while, the Generall appointed men
vnto their charge: some to repaire and trim the ships, others to attend in
gathering togither our supply and prouisions: others to search the
commodities and singularities of the countrey, to be found by sea or land,
and to make relation vnto the Generall what eyther themselues could knowe
by their owne trauaile and experience, or by good intelligence of English
men or strangers, who had longest frequented the same coast. Also some
obserued the eleuation of the pole, and drewe plats of the country exactly
graded. And by that I could gather by each mans seuerall relation, I haue
drawen a briefe description of the Newfoundland, with the commodities by
sea or lande alreadie made, and such also as are in possibilitie and great
likelihood to be made: Neuerthelesse the Cardes and plats that were
drawing, with the due gradation of the harbors, bayes, and capes, did
perish with the Admirall: wherefore in the description following, I must
omit the particulars of such things.
A briefe relation of the Newfound lande, and the commodities thereof.
[Sidenote: New found land is al Islands or broken lands.] That which we doe
call the Newfound land, and the Frenchmen Bacalaos, is an Iland, or rather
(after the opinion of some) it consisteth of sundry Ilands and broken
lands, situate in the North regions of America, vpon the gulfe and entrance
of the great riuer called S. Laurence in Canada. Into the which, nauigation
may be made both on the South and North side of this Iland. The land lyeth
South and North, containing in length betweene three and 400 miles,
accounting from cape Race (which is 46 degrees 25 minuts) vnto the Grand
bay in 52 degrees of Septentrionall latitude. [Sidenote: Goodly roads and
harbours.] The Iland round about hath very many goodly bayes and harbors,
safe roads for ships, the like not to be found in any part of the knowen
world.
[Sidenote: New found land is inhabitable.] The common opinion that is had
of intemperature and extreme cold that should be in this countrey, as of
some part it may be verified, namely the North, where I grant it is more
colde then in countries of Europe, which are vnder the same eleuation: euen
so it cannot stand with reason and nature of the clime, that the South
parts should be so intemperate as the brute hath gone. For as the same doe
lie vnder the climats of Briton, Aniou, Poictou in France, betweene 46 and
49 degrees, so can they not so much differ from the temperature of those
countries: vnlesse vpon the outcast lying open vnto the Ocean and sharper
windes, it must in deede be subiect to more colde, then further within the
land, where the mountaines are interposed, as walles and bulwarkes, to
defend and to resist the asperitie and rigor of the sea weather. Some hold
opinion, that the Newfound land might be the more subiect to cold, by how
much it lyeth high and neere vnto the middle region. I grant that not in
Newfound land alone, but in Germany Italy and Afrike, euen vnder the
Equinoctiall line, the mountaines are extreme cold, and seldome vncouered
of snow, in their culme and highest tops, which commeth to passe by the
same reason that they are extended towards the middle region: yet in the
countries lying beneth them, it is found quite contrary. [Sidenote: Cold by
accidentall meanes.] Euen so all hils hauing their discents, the valleis
also and low grounds must be likewise hot or temperate, as the clime doeth
giue in Newfound land: though I am of opinion that the Sunnes reflection is
much cooled, and cannot be so forcible in the Newfound land, nor generally
throughout America, as in Europe or Afrike: by how much the Sunne in his
diurnal course from East to West passeth ouer (for the most part) dry land
and sandy countries, before he arriueth at the West of Europe or Afrike,
whereby his motion increaseth heate, with little or no qualification by
moyst vapours. Where, on the contrary he passeth from Europe and Afrike
vnto America ouer the Ocean, from whence it draweth and carieth with him
abundance of moyst vapours, which doe qualifie and infeeble greatly the
Sunnes reuerberation vpon this countrey chiefly of Newfound land, being so
much to the Northward. Neuerthelesse (as I sayd before) the cold cannot be
so intollerable vnder the latitude of 46 47 and 48 (especiall within land)
that it should be vnhabitable, as some do suppose, seeing also there are
very many people more to the North by a great deale. And in these South
parts there be certaine beastes, Ounces or Leopards, and birdes in like
maner which in the Sommer we haue seene, not heard of in countries of
extreme and vehement coldnesse. Besides, as in the monethes of Iune, Iuly,
August and September, the heate is somewhat more then in England at those
seasons: so men remaining vpon the South parts neere vnto Cape Race, vntill
after Hollandtide, haue not found the cold so extreme, nor much differing
from the temperature of England. Those which haue arriued there after
November and December, haue found the snow exceeding deepe, whereat no
maruaile, considering the ground vpon the coast, is rough and uneuen, and
the snow is driuen into the places most declyning as the like is to be
seene with vs. The like depth of snow happily shall not be found within
land vpon the playner countries, which also are defended by the mountaines,
breaking off the violence of winds and weather. But admitting extraordinary
cold in those South parts, aboue that with vs here: it can not be as great
as in Sweedland, much lesse in Moscouia or Russia: [Sidenote: Commodities.]
yet are the same countries very populous, and the rigor and cold is
dispensed with by the commoditie of Stoues, warme clothing, meats and
drinkes: all which neede not be wanting in the Newfound land, if we had
intent there to inhabite.[101]
In the South parts we found no inhabitants, which by all likelihood haue
abandoned those coastes, the same being so much frequented by Christians:
But in the North are sauages altogether harmelesse. Touching the
commodities of this countrie, seruing either for sustentation of
inhabitants, or for maintenance of traffique, there are and may be made
diuers: so that it seemeth Nature hath recompenced that only defect and
incommodities of some sharpe cold, by many benefits: [Sidenote: Fish of sea
and fresh water.] viz. With incredible quantitie, and no lesse varietie of
kindes of fish in the sea and fresh waters, as Trouts, Salmons, and other
fish to vs vnknowen: Also Cod, which alone draweth many nations thither,
and is become the most famous fishing of the world. Abundance of Whales,
for which also is a very great trade in the bayes of Placentia and the
Grand bay, where is made Traine oiles of the Whale: Herring the largest
that haue bene heard of, and exceeding the Malstrond[102] herring of
Norway: but hitherto was neuer benefit taken of the herring fishing: There
are sundry other fish very delicate, namely the Bonito, Lobsters, Turbut,
with others infinite not sought after: Oysters hauing peare but not orient
in colour: I tooke it by reason they were not gathered in season.
Concerning the inland commodities, aswel to be drawen from this land, as
from the exceeding large countries adioyning: there is nothing which our
East and Northerly countries of Europe doe yeelde, but the like also may be
made in them as plentifully by time and Industrie: Namely rosen, pitch,
tarre, sopeashes, dealboord, mastes for ships, hides, furres, flaxe, hempe,
corne, cordage, linnen-cloth, mettals and many more. All which the
countries will aford, and the soyle is apt to yeelde.