CHAPTER XXXVI

THE PASSING OF THE OLD PERU—ITS LEGACY TO POSTERITY—THE DESTINY OF THE

NEW PERU

[Illustration: A QUICHUA MOTHER.]

The old Peru is passing,—the dominant traits of the nation are

changing,—new life is apparent in its ideals, its institutions, in the

spirit that rules society and politics, in everything that shows the

influence of a broader outlook, a greater range of endeavor, a loftier

aspiration. The traditions of caste and the contempt for utilitarian

ideals which constituted a part of the creed of the colonial aristocracy

have given place to an appreciation of true worth wherever found; the

worship of luxury and pleasure has ceased to hold in thrall a people

cradled in the pernicious atmosphere of a too abundant wealth, and the

discipline of suffering and loss has brought out the inherent strength

of a proud and gifted race; stimulated by the necessity of keeping up

with the march of modern progress in order that their country may

maintain the place to which its past history and present possibilities

entitle it, the Peruvians of to-day are putting forth determined and

well-defined efforts to overcome every obstacle in the path of their

highest development—and they are achieving phenomenal success.

But there is still much of the old Peru that it is to be hoped will long

remain. The picturesque charm which lingers about the ancient people of

the sierra, in their quaint costumes and primitive ways, has apparently

lost little by the advent of modern conditions; these children of a

fading past are as much attached to their time-honored dress and to

their traditional occupations as any Oriental, and it will be a long

time before a pronounced change in this particular is likely to take

place. During the colonial period the Indians were obliged to adopt some

features of the Spanish garb,—probably to please their Christian

masters,—and it is not known how long the process of transformation

required; but the present fashion of the Indians of Cuzco and other

localities of the sierra is a survival of the costume worn in the time

of the first Spanish Bourbon kings, while their jewels still show the

coat-of-arms of Charles V. Although there is no difference in dress to

distinguish the Indian in authority from his followers, the Alcalde of

the sierra is recognized as a very important personage among his fellows

by the silver-bound vara which he carries; it is the emblem of his

authority and is in his eyes more than a mere symbol; he will not part

with it for an instant and he would feel himself bereft of his power to

rule if it were taken away.

[Illustration: DESCENDANTS OF THE INCAS’ SUBJECTS.]

Though obedient to the Catholic faith, the Indians have their own

celebrations in addition to those of the church; they still observe the

feasts of the seedtime and harvest, as did their heathen ancestors,

though many features of the festivities as originally practised have

been eliminated. The tenacity with which they hold to their traditions

is seen in many things. When a new house is built, it is decorated with

flowers—a survival of the ceremonies held on such occasions in the days

of the Incas—and a party is invited to celebrate the event. Over the

doors of some old houses are symbols of both Incaic and Christian

worship, though this is not seen on the more recently built homes, the

roofs of which, with few exceptions, are adorned with a large tin cross,

about two feet high, having attached to it small copies of the various

instruments of torture used at the crucifixion of our Saviour, as well

as other reminders of that tragedy; the spear that pierced his side, the

long pole and sponge on which vinegar was given to quench his thirst,

the garment for which they cast lots, and even the cock that crowed when

Peter had thrice denied his master, are represented in conjunction with

the central emblem of Christianity. The domicile of a bridal couple is

easily distinguished by its being decorated with branches of totora

(bulrushes) which are kept in evidence for eight days and signify that

an invitation is extended to all friends to partake of the hospitality

of the newly married pair.

[Illustration: A TYPE OF THE AMAZON INDIAN.]

[Illustration: THE SCION OF A NOBLE FAMILY OF THE FOREST.]

The change from old to new conditions in Peru is a transition in which

the Indian has had little share; not because he is prevented, but

because of his disinclination to learn new ways and his lack of capacity

to receive and apply modern knowledge. It is impossible to say what may

be accomplished for future generations, but, judging from past history,

centuries are required to accustom the indigenes to any radical change,

and they seem utterly bewildered in the face of the rapid march of the

present-day civilization. They are not easily induced to use modern

tools in their work even when the superiority of such utensils is proved

to them. The effort which the Indian is obliged to make in order to grow

accustomed to the use of the modern implements is inconceivable to the

modern mind; to these ancient people, it is a herculean task to attempt

any new thing, and, if allowed to follow their own inclination, they

will gladly throw aside the “improved” plough and the light,

long-handled hoe, in favor of their tried and trusted though

old-fashioned and cumbersome tools. Spinning and weaving are favorite

occupations of the Indians of the coast as well as of the sierra, and

their primitive looms, on which blanket and lighter materials are made,

may be seen in most of their homes.

[Illustration: ALCALDES, WITH VARAS, THE INSIGNIA OF THEIR AUTHORITY.]

Not only in the descendants of the Incas’ subjects does the charm of the

past linger in many beautiful and interesting features of Peru to-day.

The influence of the viceroyalty is seen in some of the most attractive

characteristics of republican Peruvians; their inheritance from their

colonial ancestry may not be an unmixed blessing, but they have reason

to be proud of some of its advantages. The unanimous verdict of

travellers is that the Peruvians are a people of inherited refinement,

culture, and geniality, and that their capital is one of the most

delightful places in the world for a stranger to visit; their politeness

and courteous hospitality is a heritage from the viceroyalty,—and it is

more Peruvian than Spanish, being free from the extreme formality which

is the keynote of Spanish courtesy.

The new Peru is the result of a transition extending over a long period,

but of which the last steps have been rapid and of particular

significance. The heritage of aristocratic Spain held the republican

Peruvians in bondage long after the declaration of their independence

gave verbal freedom and equality to all. It was not possible that the

old ideas and tendencies should vanish with a stroke of the Liberator’s

pen. But the desire for liberty grew in the hearts of the people as its

blessings were ever more enjoyed and appreciated, and latent abilities

were awakened as the demand became imperative for capable, resolute, and

dominant leaders to advance in the path of progress. So long as fortune

smiled and wealth came easily, it was not possible that the best

characteristics of the people should be developed, however, and it was

not until adversity struck a heavy blow that the true spirit of the

nation was revealed.

[Illustration: AN INDIAN WOMAN OF LORETO.]

It is sometimes said that the Peruvians are too gentle for their own

good—that the national optimism is combined with too large a share of

“faith in a lucky star” to be conducive of determined effort. But the

history of the past few years proves that the nation is capable of

advancing in line with the most progressive countries, and that the

elements uniting to consolidate the best interests of the new Peru are

not only unlimited faith and confidence but also fine judgment,

well-directed energy, and established principles. It is peculiarly

significant of the tendency of the new Peru that the statesman chosen to

govern its destinies during the next four years as president of the

republic is one of the most capable financiers in South American

politics. It is not because of his famous ancestry—he is a descendant of

the noble Estete who distinguished himself during the period of the

conquest and established the first settlement at Trujillo—nor yet for

his scholarship, though he is among the best informed men of his

country, but because he realizes, in his wonderful grasp of present-day

needs and possibilities, the aspirations of his people, and is prepared

to lead them to greater heights than the nation has yet known. The

president-elect has already announced the policy of his government,

which is to be an instrument of progress, its underlying impulses the

maintenance of peace and the protection of the interests and rights of

all citizens. Questions of sanitation, education, immigration,

agriculture, and railroad construction are to receive attention, and

everything that may contribute to the national well-being will have

careful consideration. The staunch principles of the man who is to

direct the destinies of his country for the next four years are voiced

in his declaration: “I intend to be the head of the nation, not the head

of a party.” This is the spirit of leadership demanded by the Peruvians

to-day. A new generation is taking the place of the older; new vitality

pulses through the veins of the younger patriot, and his nerves are

stronger, his sight is keener and his recognition of the forces that are

moulding the destinies of empires to-day is impelling him to more active

endeavor. That he does not forget the debt of honor due to the noble

heroes who have rendered the highest services to the country in the

past, while he recognizes the merit of those who are working for its

present and future aggrandizement, is shown by the liberality with which

monuments are built to commemorate their deeds. On the 8th of September

last, a magnificent pantheon was dedicated to the memory of “The

Defenders of the Nation in the War of 1879”; in its crypt repose the

remains of the immortal heroes Admiral Grau and Colonel Bolognesi. It is

the most imposing monument of the capital and shows that while the

national heart beats high with hope for future achievement, it is still

true to the sentiment of gratitude for compatriots who were sacrificed

in the darker days that are past. With one hand clasping the tender

memories of misfortune and the other extended to receive the blessings

of a more prosperous day, the Peruvian nation displays its most salient

characteristics, loyalty and optimism.

[Illustration: A NATIVE WEAVER, CHICLAYO.]

[Illustration: MAPA POLITICO Y GEOGRÁFICO DEL PERÚ]

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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.

● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.

The old and the new Peru · 第 36 / 36 章