AREQUIPA—THE MISTI—HARVARD OBSERVATORY
[Illustration: ARCH AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE CATHEDRAL, AREQUIPA.]
Tradition says that when Maita-Ccapac first led his army across the
Apurimac River, some of his soldiers were so enchanted by the
attractions of the country, especially the picturesque valley above
which the snowy summit of the Misti glistens among the clouds, that they
asked the Inca’s permission to remain. “Ari, Quepay!” responded their
lord, “Very well,—Remain here!” and from this exclamation is derived the
name of the beautiful city that now brightens the valley at the foot of
the Misti,—Arequipa. In order to appreciate the full beauty of the site
chosen as a permanent home by the soldiers of Maita-Ccapac, it is
necessary to have traversed the arid desert of shifting, crescent-shaped
sanddunes that separate it from the Pacific, or to have journeyed across
the barren _puna_ that stretches out between this fertile valley and the
farther slopes of the Cordilleras. Contrast heightens the charm of the
scene that spreads out in matchless beauty, as the white city appears in
the midst of its fresh, radiant _campiña_, and one can appreciate the
enthusiasm with which poetic travellers have described it as “a pearl in
an emerald setting” and “a dove in an emerald nest.”
Behind the city, rising above the valley like the walls of an
amphitheatre, are three majestic peaks, Pichu-pichu to the east,
Chacchani to the north, and the white-crested Misti in the centre; and
far in the distance, beyond the valley, the snowy summit of Coropuna,
more than twenty thousand feet high, towers like a distant sentinel
guarding the approach to some sacred shrine. But it is the Misti that
dominates the scene, as one approaches the lovely valley. The grandeur
and sublimity of this noble peak lies not only in its altitude, over
nineteen thousand feet, but in its clear-cut conical form and in the
mantle of snow that perpetually crowns its summit. There is little about
its appearance to suggest the terrible explosions of flame and lava
which once burst from its crater, and the only fire the imagination can
associate with its pure white summit, is that of the altar of worship.
What an ideal temple it would have been for the Virgins of the Sun!
[Illustration: THE CRATER OF THE MISTI.]
The Misti has its legends—what volcano has not?—and we are told the
reason why its fire is now quenched and its red mouth sealed with snow.
Ages ago, when it was a monster of destructive passion, scorching with
its hot breath and poisoning with its venomous lava all the beautiful
things of the valley, the Children of the Sun complained to their
celestial father, beseeching him to stifle the evil genius and save them
from his malevolence. The Sun, the father of goodness, irritated by the
giant’s wickedness, drowned him in his own liquid fire, and sealed the
top of the _Cerro_ with a wafer of snow, more impenetrable than granite,
so that the monster might nevermore be able to breathe, in case some
evil spirit were to try to bring it back to life. Another legend says
that St. Thomas, when preaching in this region, was so indignant at the
presumption of this thing of fire and destruction, that he threw his
sandal into its crater, whereupon the colossus was calmed and made
incapable of any further mischief. The beautiful valley, released from
slavery to the whims of a cruel tyrant, has ever since shown gratitude
to heaven for its salvation by rendering every service to mankind that
abundant fertility could compass.
Leaving the fascinating realm of tradition for the more reliable ground
of history, one finds that the present city of Arequipa was founded by
Garcia Manuel de Carvajal, under Pizarro’s orders, in the year 1540, and
that it was christened Villa Hermosa, “Beautiful City”—a name as
appropriate to-day as when the lovely spot was chosen. Situated at an
altitude of eight thousand feet above the level of the sea, this
paradise of green gardens and sunny skies is an ideal place of residence
for those who seek a healthful climate and the blessings of perpetual
spring.
[Illustration: AREQUIPA AND THE MISTI.]
One of the motives that decided Pizarro to choose the base of the Misti
as a site for the construction of a colonial city was expressed in his
formal authorization, which set forth that, in the ten months that the
Spaniards had lived there, none of their number had died, though they
formed a considerable settlement. Favored by the circumstances that
bountiful Nature and human industry contributed to the new city from the
period of its foundation, Arequipa grew and flourished, and in the time
of the Viceroy Toledo, it received by the royal decree of King Philip
II. the honorable title of “very noble and very loyal.” A notable
compliment was paid to the ladies of Arequipa in this decree, which
compared them to the Roman matrons in devotion and self-sacrifice,
praising the spirit shown in the giving up of their jewels to raise a
royal donation, a few years before.
[Illustration: A CELEBRATION OF MASS ON THE SUMMIT OF THE MISTI.]
Arequipa is a “white city,” built of native stone from the inexhaustible
quarries of the Misti. The stone is of volcanic formation, white,
porous, and easily chiselled; in the older edifices, which were
constructed during the time of the viceroyalty, the façades are
exquisitely carved in designs as fine as lace work, showing how well
this stone lends itself to the beauties of decorative architecture.
Owing to the numerous earthquakes which have visited Arequipa in the
past, it is the custom to build only one and two-story structures, the
walls being sometimes more than three feet in thickness. Many of the
houses are built with a vaulted roof, the arch offering greatest
resistance to the destructive force of seismic convulsions. As there is
plenty of space available, the most costly residences cover a
considerable area, having large _patios_, or interior courts, which are
paved with ornamental tiles, and arranged with handsome _jardinières_ of
plants and flowers. Some of the _patios_ are beautified with trees and a
flower garden, while others have an artistic fountain in the midst.
Arequipa has not yet reached the period of congested thoroughfares and a
population that can be accommodated only by means of “skyscrapers.”
These huge towers with little more than pigeon-holes for rooms, which
are among the necessary evils of overcrowded modern centres, are still
unknown to the city of the emerald _ceinture_.
Arequipa is built on the banks of the river Chili, its streets
stretching out in all directions to the _campiña_, or green country
fields surrounding it. As in all Spanish-American cities the principal
square is the centre from which radiates the activity of the population.
It is popularly called the _Plaza Mayor_, and bears the official name of
Plaza de Armas, or “Military Plaza.” In Arequipa, the Plaza de Armas
presents a particularly attractive appearance, the Cathedral, which
extends along one side of this square, being a magnificent and imposing
edifice, while the arched _portales_ that overlook the remaining three
sides are picturesque examples of colonial architecture.
[Illustration: LOS PORTALES, AREQUIPA.]
The Cathedral is one of the oldest and most interesting temples of
Catholic America. Nearly three hundred years ago the decree was issued
for its construction, by Pope Paul IV., though it was not until the time
of his successor, Pope Paul V., that the work was begun, during the
reign of King Philip III, in 1612. The temple was built in accordance
with the custom of those days, the decorations of its arches and columns
being elaborate and of costly workmanship. Altars of cedar, carved in
beautiful design, were subsequently replaced by those of silver, the
abundance of this precious metal resulting in its lavish use for the
decoration of all the churches and convents of the viceroyalty. The
chancel occupied the centre of the chief nave and its seats were of
finest cedar, their carved backs showing in high relief the effigies of
the twelve apostles and other saints. In the sacristy were preserved
many rich treasures, consecrated vases of gold, sacerdotal vestments of
rare value, and a collection of portraits of all the bishops of Arequipa
from the earliest days. Many of these priceless possessions were
destroyed by fire in 1844, when everything perishable succumbed to the
flames that wrapped the great edifice in a lurid sheet. The silver of
the altars ran over the floor in a molten stream, all efforts to save
the precious ornaments being futile. The rebuilding of the sacred
structure took twenty years, and was little more than completed when a
terrible earthquake visited the city, in 1868, which, however, damaged
the Cathedral only slightly;—a proof of its excellent and solid
construction, since the shock was terrific and prolonged and resulted in
much loss of property.
[Illustration: PLAZA DE ARMAS, AREQUIPA.]
The Cathedral of Arequipa is one of the most admirable specimens of
church architecture in America. Its façade measures four hundred and
fifty feet in length; three entrances, and the support of seventy
columns of composite Ionic and Doric style, give a magnificent
appearance to the edifice. The peculiar advantage offered by its
location—dominating a spacious plaza—enhances the imposing effect of its
splendid architecture, which would have been dwarfed, from an artistic
point of view, in a less commanding site. The interior of the temple is
divided into three naves, separated by superb columns that support the
great arches above with harmonious effect. The main altar piece is of
marble and the pulpit is a work of superior art in carved wood. There is
an atmosphere of rest and peace within the walls of this noble edifice
that is felt not only by the pious worshipper who seeks this consecrated
place for the purpose of prayer, but even by the indifferent passer-by,
attracted within by the music of the splendid choir, or by the artist’s
appreciation of the beautiful.
Of earlier origin than the Cathedral, the construction of the church of
the Jesuits was begun in the sixteenth century, though it was not until
a hundred years later that its vaulted roof was finished. It is one of
the celebrated churches of Peru, both for its architectural importance
and its interesting history. The Dominican friars founded their convent
in Arequipa in 1582, and the present temple of Santo Domingo is among
the principal churches of the city. Nearly all the religious orders were
represented here during the viceroyalty, the Convent of Mercy having
been founded in 1548, while the existing edifice was built nearly two
hundred and fifty years ago. The Franciscans established their first
convent in Arequipa in 1552, the church of this order at present being
one of the largest and most beautiful in the city. There are three
nunneries here, Santa Catalina, Santa Teresa, and Santa Rosa.
[Illustration: STREET SCENE, AREQUIPA.]
The social life of the _Arequipeña_—the lady of Arequipa—is essentially
that of a refined, gracious, and charitable Christian, who esteems it
her greatest pleasure, as well as duty, to attend to the demands of
religion, and to extend to the sick and the needy the gentle kindness
which is characteristic of her, whether in the salon, the charity ward,
or the abode of suffering. The Orphans’ Asylum of Arequipa reflects this
spirit of kindness in its appearance and administration. It occupies a
spacious building, and connected with it are large gardens where the
children may run and play in the hours of recreation. About four hundred
children are accommodated in this institution, which is one of the
charges of the Benevolent Society. Under the same administration, the
Hospital of San Juan de Dios provides care and comfort to the suffering
poor, its matron and nurses belonging to the world-renowned order, the
Sisters of Charity. The new hospital is a credit to the enterprise as
well as the charitable spirit of the people, who have contributed to
make it one of the notable institutions of the country.
[Illustration: CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO, AREQUIPA.]
The schools of Arequipa, as well as its churches and charities, are an
indication of the refinement of its people and their appreciation of the
advantages of culture. The University of Arequipa has always been an
important centre of learning, presided over by men of illustrious
talents, and the various colleges of the city rank among the first in
Peru. The Colegio de la Independencia is a celebrated institution,
having trained for the service of the republic some of its greatest
statesmen. It was in Arequipa that the patriot Gonzalez Vigil learned
how to thrill the hearts of his hearers by his earnest and impassioned
appeals in favor of justice and liberal government; and he was one of
many who came from the schools of Arequipa to join their compatriots in
the struggle for good government that followed the inauguration of the
republic. The progress of education is as marked in the schools devoted
to the instruction of girls as in the boys’ colleges. The Colegio de
Señoritas, which is under the administration of the community of Our
Lady of the Rosary, and is directed by the Reverend Mother Elena Chaves
Delgado, is one of the best educational institutions of Peru. It was
founded in 1870 by the Reverend Mother, and for the past ten years it
has been under the present administration, the avowed object of the
school being “the religious, moral, and scientific improvement of the
attendants and the instruction and education of the girls, in accordance
with Catholic doctrine and morality, and conforming to the general rules
of public instruction.” A notable and admirable feature of the Colegio
de Señoritas is the practical character of the education provided. It
has been the constant aim of the college to instil into the hearts of
its pupils a love of virtue and habits of industry; not only are the
girls taught the lessons of books, but they are given an opportunity to
learn by practice all the duties of a household, and are prepared to
earn a livelihood should the necessity occur.
[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF THE BATHS OF YURA.]
[Illustration: AT THE BATHS OF YURA, AREQUIPA.]
In importance, the second city in Peru, Arequipa is the capital of the
department of the same name, and an important commercial as well as
political and social centre. The administration of the department is in
the hands of the prefect, Dr. Ximenes, whose authority extends to all
its provinces and municipalities. He is well known in political circles
for his progressive and enterprising ideas, and his government has been
one of steady improvement and development. The department is divided
into seven provinces: Arequipa, of which the chief city is the capital
of the department; Islay, with its chief city, Mollendo; Cailloma, with
its capital of the same name; Castilla, of which Aplao is the capital;
Condesuyos, having Chuquibamba as its political centre; Union, extending
north to the Department of Apurimac and dividing the Departments of
Ayacucho and Cuzco, with Cotahuasi its capital; and the province of
Camaná, stretching along the coast from Ica to the province of Islay:
the city of Camaná, named after the province, of which it is the
capital, and the city of Mollendo, are, together with Chala and Quilca,
the principal ports of the State. Mollendo is a modern city, connected
with Arequipa by railway, and is a stopping place for all the steamers
of the Pacific and the South American Companies between Valparaiso and
Panamá, as well as numerous other lines.
[Illustration: BOLOGNESI PARK, AREQUIPA.]
The local interests of the city of Arequipa are governed by the
Provincial Council, or Municipality. The present authorities have given
especial attention to the improvement of the city, devoting earnest
efforts to the carrying out of important public works. The previous
council constructed new _portales_ in the principal plaza, built the
Grau bridge over the river Chili, established the water works system by
which the city is supplied from Yumina, two leagues distant, and
accomplished other reforms. The existing council is making notable
improvements in the beautification of the Plaza de Armas; is
constructing a new market building suitable to the growing needs of the
city; and is perfecting the drainage system. The streets have been
improved and many of them newly paved; Bolognesi Park is now a more
charming _paseo_ than ever; and a new electric street railway is to be
established, which will connect the city with its beautiful suburbs. The
municipality pays especial attention to public health, and the
sanitation of the city is in charge of competent authorities who spare
no effort to ensure the most healthful conditions. The city and its
picturesque suburbs, Yanaguara and Tingo, are lighted by electricity.
Good roads are maintained throughout the department, and it is a
pleasant journey to visit the various points of interest in the vicinity
of Arequipa, which is surrounded by charming resorts for health and
pleasure. Tingo, Zemarrat, and Sabandia are noted not only for their
picturesque scenery but for the attractive appearance of their streets
and gardens.
[Illustration: AVENIDA DE TINGO, AREQUIPA.]
The thermal waters of Arequipa are celebrated throughout the Pacific
Coast, the springs of Yura and the Aguas de Jesus being known to
everyone familiar with this region. The latter are located about a
league from the city, on the slope of one of the _cerros_ belonging to a
chain that begins between the Misti and the Pichu-pichu and extends as
far as Paucarpata, just east of the capital. It is a pleasant outing to
visit the Aguas de Jesus, and many parties make the trip, to enjoy the
scenery along the route, which is superb, and to take advantage of the
beneficial waters. The spring is enclosed in a stone building, and is
under the direction of the Benevolent Society. Yura, which is two hours’
train journey from Arequipa, is a popular health resort, not only for
the people of the capital but of all Peru. Its baths are famous for
their curative qualities, and are of different kinds, including
sulphurous and ferruginous, which possess wonderful properties. Their
fame increases constantly as the remarkable benefits derived from their
use by citizens and travellers become known.
At a short distance from the city, on the slope of the Misti, the
Astronomical Observatory of Harvard University is situated. This
scientific institution was founded eighteen years ago, in order to
enable astronomers to make observations at the greatest possible
altitude above the sea level. The location of the observatory is perfect
for the purpose designed, and satisfactory results have been obtained.
At present this institution is under the direction of Mr. Frost, of
Harvard University. The local authorities extend every courtesy to the
scientists of the observatory, who speak in high terms of their
politeness and kindly interest.
The population of the Department of Arequipa is two hundred and forty
thousand, of which the capital city claims forty thousand. An
illustrious writer, referring to its people says: “The heart of the
Peruvian nation lives here.” The annals of its people show that in all
that has contributed to the nation’s greatness and prosperity, in all
that has grown out of patriotic sentiment and devoted loyalty, in
everything pertaining to the national spirit, as expressed in its
literature, its art, and its social advancement, the lovely valley at
the foot of the Misti has been represented by noble children, worthy of
a high place on the national roll of fame.
[Illustration: HARVARD OBSERVATORY AT AREQUIPA.]
[Illustration: CHANCHAMAYO, ON THE EASTERN SLOPE OF THE SIERRA.]