THE OLD AND THE NEW PERU
A STORY OF THE ANCIENT INHERITANCE AND THE MODERN GROWTH AND ENTERPRISE
OF A GREAT NATION
[Illustration:
_Copyright 1908 by George Barrie & Sons_
HIS EXCELLENCY DR. JOSÉ PARDO
PRESIDENT
OF THE PERUVIAN REPUBLIC
]
THE OLD AND THE NEW PERU
A STORY OF THE ANCIENT INHERITANCE AND THE MODERN GROWTH AND ENTERPRISE
OF A GREAT NATION
BY
MARIE ROBINSON WRIGHT
MEMBER OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF AMERICA, GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF
BRAZIL, HISTORICAL AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTE OF SÃO PAULO, GEOGRAPHICAL
SOCIETY OF LA PAZ
AUTHOR OF
_PICTURESQUE MEXICO_; _THE NEW BRAZIL_; _THE REPUBLIC OF CHILE_;
_BOLIVIA_, ETC.
[Illustration: [Logo]]
PHILADELPHIA: PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY
GEORGE BARRIE & SONS
LONDON: C. D. CAZENOVE & SON, 26 HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W. C.
PARIS: 19 RUE SCRIBE
COPYRIGHT, 1908, BY GEORGE BARRIE & SONS
TO THE NOBLE SON OF AN ILLUSTRIOUS SIRE, A PATRIOT WITHOUT REPROACH, A
STATESMAN OF GENIUS
=His Excellency Dr. José Pardo=
PRESIDENT OF PERU
=I Dedicate The Old and The New Peru=
WITH SENTIMENTS OF ADMIRATION AND ESTEEM
THE AUTHOR
CONTENTS
PAGE
DEDICATION 5
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 9
INTRODUCTION 13
CHAPTER I
ANCIENT PERU—PRE-INCAIC MONUMENTS 17
CHAPTER II
THE RISE OF THE CUZCO DYNASTY 35
CHAPTER III
THE VAST EMPIRE OF THE INCAS 53
CHAPTER IV
THE SPANISH DISCOVERY AND INVASION UNDER PIZARRO 65
CHAPTER V
THE CONQUEST OF PERU 77
CHAPTER VI
THE REIGN OF THE VICEROYS 93
CHAPTER VII
THE CHURCH IN COLONIAL DAYS 113
CHAPTER VIII
THE OVERTHROW OF SPANISH AUTHORITY 127
CHAPTER IX
PERU UNDER REPUBLICAN GOVERNMENT 145
CHAPTER X
THE ADMINISTRATION OF PRESIDENT JOSÉ PARDO 163
CHAPTER XI
THE POLITICAL ORGANIZATION OF THE REPUBLIC 177
CHAPTER XII
THE CITY OF THE KINGS AND ITS BEAUTIFUL SUBURBS 187
CHAPTER XIII
PERUVIAN HOSPITALITY AND CULTURE 203
CHAPTER XIV
THE NATIONAL LIBRARY—PERUVIAN WRITERS—PAINTING AND ILLUSTRATIVE
ART 217
CHAPTER XV
THE OLDEST UNIVERSITY IN AMERICA—MODERN SCHOOLS OF PERU 233
CHAPTER XVI
THE BENEVOLENT SOCIETIES OF PERU 247
CHAPTER XVII
AREQUIPA—THE MISTI-HARVARD OBSERVATORY 255
CHAPTER XVIII
A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY 269
CHAPTER XIX
THE WEALTH OF THE GUANO ISLANDS 283
CHAPTER XX
CALLAO, THE CHIEF SEAPORT OF PERU—STEAMSHIP LINES 291
CHAPTER XXI
AGRICULTURE AND IRRIGATION ON THE COAST 301
CHAPTER XXII
TRUJILLO AND THE CHICAMA VALLEY 313
CHAPTER XXIII
THE COTTON FIELDS OF PIURA 327
CHAPTER XXIV
VINEYARDS AND ORCHARDS OF THE SOUTHERN COAST REGION 335
CHAPTER XXV
TACNA AND ARICA 343
CHAPTER XXVI
MINES OF THE SIERRA AND OTHER REGIONS 351
CHAPTER XXVII
THE OROYA RAILWAY, THE HIGHEST IN THE WORLD 367
CHAPTER XXVIII
A TRIP OVER THE SOUTHERN ROUTE—NEW RAILWAYS AND PUBLIC ROADS 377
CHAPTER XXIX
PASTURE LANDS OF THE PLATEAU—THE ALPACA AND THE VICUÑA OF PUNO 389
CHAPTER XXX
CUZCO, THE ANCIENT INCA CAPITAL 397
CHAPTER XXXI
THE MONTAÑA AND ITS PRODUCTS—THE RUBBER LANDS OF LORETO 407
CHAPTER XXXII
IQUITOS, THE CHIEF PERUVIAN PORT OF THE AMAZON 417
CHAPTER XXXIII
NAVIGATION AND EXPLORATION ON THE AMAZON WATERWAYS 425
CHAPTER XXXIV
FOREIGN INTERESTS IN PERU—IMMIGRATION AND COLONIZATION 431
CHAPTER XXXV
FINANCIAL AND COMMERCIAL PROGRESS—MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES 439
CHAPTER XXXVI
THE PASSING OF THE OLD PERU—ITS LEGACY TO POSTERITY—THE DESTINY OF
THE NEW PERU 451
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
HIS EXCELLENCY DR. JOSÉ PARDO, PRESIDENT OF THE PERUVIAN
REPUBLIC _Fronts._
THE COAT-OF-ARMS OF PERU _Title page_
GIRDLE FOUND IN THE CEMETERY OF PACHACÁMAC 17
SOUTHWESTERN PART OF PACHACÁMAC VIEWED FROM THE NORTH 18
ENTRANCE TO THE PRINCIPAL PALACE OF PACHACÁMAC 19
THE EASTERN STREET OF PACHACÁMAC 20
TERRACES OF THE SOUTHEAST FRONT OF PACHACÁMAC, WITH
CEMETERY OF SACRIFICED WOMEN 21
A VIEW OF THE SUN TEMPLE OF PACHACÁMAC, SHOWING NICHED
WALLS 22
RUINS OF THE CONVENT, PACHACÁMAC 23
HUACAS FROM THE GRAVES OF PACHACÁMAC 24
PRE-INCAIC POTTERY FROM PACHACÁMAC 25
CURIOUS SYMBOLS OF PACHACÁMAC WORSHIP 26
FAÇADE OF THE PALACE OF CHAN-CHAN, NEAR TRUJILLO 27
CARVED TERRACES OF THE PALACE OF CHAN-CHAN 28
ANIMAL CARVINGS ON THE WALLS OF CHAN-CHAN 29
RUINS OF CHAN-CHAN 30
MORTUARY CLOTH WITH SYMBOLIC EMBLEMS 31
FOUND IN THE BURIAL PLACE OF PACHACÁMAC 32
OLLANTAYTAMBO, ONCE THE FAVORITE RESIDENCE OF THE INCAS 34
AN INCAIC DOORWAY 35
TERRACE OF THE INCA’S PALACE, OLLANTAYTAMBO 37
WALL OF THE PALACE OF ONE OF THE INCAS, CUZCO 38
RUINS OF THE PALACE OF MANCO-CCAPAC, CUZCO 39
NICHE IN THE FAÇADE OF THE PALACE OF MANCO-CCAPAC 41
INCA FOUNTAIN AT CUZCO 43
RUINS AT OLLANTAYTAMBO 44
STONE WALLS OF THE PALACE OF OLLANTA, OLLANTAYTAMBO 45
RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF THE INCA VIRACOCHA, NEAR CUZCO 46
SEATS FROM WHICH THE INCA AND HIS SUITE VIEWED THE
SACRIFICES 47
THE RODADERO, CUZCO, SITE CHOSEN FOR RUNNING CONTESTS OF
THE HUARACU 48
FOREIGN TOURISTS AT OLLANTAYTAMBO 50
INCA OBSERVATORY, INTI-HUATANA, AT PISAC, NEAR CUZCO 52
CORNER-STONE OF AN ANCIENT FORTRESS, CUZCO 53
ANCIENT STREET OF CUZCO, SHOWING INCAIC WALLS 55
PRINCIPAL HALL OF THE INCA OBSERVATORY, INTI-HUATANA 57
SHOWING THE TWELVE-ANGLE STONE, RUINS OF CUZCO 58
THE INCA’S BATH, OLLANTAYTAMBO 59
THE HOUSE OF THE SERPENTS, CUZCO 61
DOORWAY OF THE OBSERVATORY, INTI-HUATANA 62
THE INCA’S THRONE, OVERLOOKING THE CITY OF CUZCO 64
ANCIENT STREET OF CUZCO 65
RUINS OF AN INCA’S PALACE 67
THE ANDENES, OR ARTIFICIAL TERRACES, CULTIVATED UNDER THE
INCAS 68
SEATS CUT IN SOLID STONE, AT KENKO, NEAR CUZCO 69
ANCIENT BRIDGE OF SANTA TERESA, CUZCO 70
AN INCAIC STREET, CUZCO 72
ENTRANCE TO AN INCAIC HOUSE 74
THE DEATH OF ATAHUALLPA. FROM A PAINTING BY THE PERUVIAN
ARTIST LUIS MONTERO 76
COAT-OF-ARMS OF PIZARRO GRANTED BY CHARLES V. IN HONOR OF
THE DISCOVERY OF PERU 77
FRANCISCO PIZARRO, CONQUEROR OF PERU AND FOUNDER OF LIMA 79
GENEALOGY OF FRANCISCO PIZARRO, CONQUEROR OF PERU 81
CAJAMARCA, WHERE ATAHUALLPA WAS SEIZED AND EXECUTED BY
PIZARRO’S ORDER 83
PIZARRO ON THE ISLAND OF GALLO. FROM A PAINTING BY JUAN O.
LEPIANI 85
AUTOGRAPHS OF THE FIRST OFFICIALS WHO GOVERNED LIMA WITH
PIZARRO 86
A DESCENDANT OF THE CONQUERED INCA 88
COAT-OF-ARMS GRANTED PIZARRO BY CHARLES V. AFTER THE
CONQUEST OF CUZCO 90
FAÇADE OF SAN AGUSTIN CHURCH, LIMA, SHOWING ELABORATE
CARVING OF COLONIAL DAYS 92
THE FIRST COAT-OF-ARMS BESTOWED ON LIMA BY CHARLES V. 93
LIMA RESIDENCE OF THE MARQUIS OF TORRE-TAGLE DURING THE
VICEREGAL PERIOD, SHOWING “MIRADORES,” OR BALCONIES 95
DOORWAY OF A COLONIAL PALACE IN CUZCO, PERIOD FOLLOWING
THE CONQUEST 97
CHURCH OF THE COMPAÑIA, AREQUIPA, SHOWING EXQUISITE HAND
CARVING 99
THE KEY OF THE CITY OF LIMA 102
DOORWAY OF A CHURCH IN AREQUIPA, BUILT DURING THE COLONIAL
PERIOD 103
ENTRANCE TO A COLONIAL INN, CUZCO 106
ONE OF THE COLONIAL PALACES OF AREQUIPA, BUILT TWO
CENTURIES AGO 107
A COLONIAL AQUEDUCT 108
PATIO OF A COLONIAL HOUSE, LIMA 110
THE CHOIR AND ALTAR OF THE CATHEDRAL OF LIMA—THE ALTAR OF
SOLID SILVER 112
ARMS OF THE CATHEDRAL OF LIMA 113
THE CATHEDRAL, LIMA 115
INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL, LIMA 117
CHURCH AND PLAZUELA OF SAN FRANCISCO, LIMA 118
CONVENT OF SANTO DOMINGO, CUZCO, BUILT ON THE FOUNDATIONS
OF THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN 119
CLOISTER OF LA MERCED, CUZCO 120
CHURCH OF SAN AGUSTIN, LIMA 121
CHOIR OF THE CATHEDRAL OF CUZCO 122
OLD CHURCH AT URCOS 123
CHURCH OF THE COMPAÑIA AT PISCO 124
PLAZA DE ARMAS, THE PRINCIPAL PUBLIC SQUARE OF LIMA 126
STATUE OF BOLIVAR, LIMA 127
PLAZA OF THE INQUISITION, LIMA 129
THE SENATE CHAMBER, LIMA 133
CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES, LIMA 135
THE HISTORICAL PALACE OF THE VICEROYS, LIMA 139
THE MUNICIPAL PALACE, LIMA 141
ARMS OF PERU AT THE TIME OF THE INDEPENDENCE 144
MONUMENT DOS DE MAYO 145
DON MANUEL PARDO, THE FIRST CIVIL PRESIDENT OF PERU 148
THE MORRO OF ARICA 150
DON MANUEL CANDAMO—ELECTED PRESIDENT OF PERU 1903, DIED
1904 152
GENERAL ANDRÉS CÁCERES, PRESIDENT OF PERU, 1886–1890 AND
1894–1895 155
SCENE ON BOARD A PERUVIAN WARSHIP 158
COAT-OF-ARMS OF PERU 160
ONE OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS OF LIMA, DECORATED ON A
NATIONAL HOLIDAY 162
POST OFFICE, LIMA 163
PATIO OF THE POST OFFICE, LIMA 165
THE PRESIDENT’S COACH LEAVING THE GOVERNMENT PALACE FOR
THE HOUSE OF CONGRESS 166
MONUMENT TO BOLOGNESI 168
THE WAR ARSENAL, LIMA 169
INFANTRY UNIFORM, PERUVIAN ARMY 170
MR. ROOT AT THE NATIONAL CLUB, LIMA 171
THE CENTRAL MARKET, LIMA 172
PERUVIAN MARINES 173
THE PERUVIAN IRONCLAD _GRAU_, IN THE HARBOR OF CALLAO 174
THE UNVEILING OF BOLOGNESI’S STATUE IN LIMA 176
A REVIEW OF THE TROOPS, LIMA 177
HIS EXCELLENCY DR. AUGUSTO B. LEGUIA, ELECTED PRESIDENT OF
PERU 1908–1912, TO BE INAUGURATED SEPTEMBER 24, 1908 178
DR. EUGENIO LARRABURE Y UNÁNUE, ELECTED VICE-PRESIDENT FOR
TERM 1908–1912 179
THE MILITARY SCHOOL, CHORILLOS 180
DR. SOLÓN POLO, MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS IN PRESIDENT
JOSÉ PARDO’S CABINET 181
DR. CARLOS WASHBURN, PRESIDENT OF DR. PARDO’S CABINET 182
THE MINT, LIMA 183
REVIEW OF ARTILLERY TROOPS, LIMA 184
BOLOGNESI CIRCLE, PASEO COLÓN, LIMA 186
ENTRANCE TO MUNICIPAL PARK 187
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM, LIMA 189
THE MUNICIPAL INSTITUTE OF HYGIENE 190
PLAZUELA DE LA RECOLETA 191
STATUE OF COLUMBUS IN THE PASEO COLÓN 192
KIOSK OF PALMS, EXPOSITION PARK 193
PAVILION IN EXPOSITION PARK 194
CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO 195
SAN PEDRO, THE FASHIONABLE CHURCH OF LIMA 196
THE BALTA BRIDGE OVER THE RIMAC RIVER 197
PASEO COLÓN—THE FAVORITE DRIVEWAY OF LIMA 198
THE PRESENT STANDARD OF LIMA, AS MODIFIED IN 1808 200
A PICTURESQUE SUBURBAN DRIVEWAY, LIMA 202
A MODERN PRIVATE RESIDENCE OF LIMA 203
ENTRANCE TO THE BOTANICAL GARDEN, LIMA 205
GRAND STAND OF THE JOCKEY CLUB, LIMA 206
PRINCIPAL HALL OF THE INTERNATIONAL REVOLVER CLUB, LIMA 207
THE AMERICAN LEGATION AT LIMA 208
BARRANCO, A SEASIDE SUBURB OF LIMA 209
PARK AT BARRANCO 210
STAIRWAY OF THE NATIONAL CLUB, LIMA 211
MAIN CORRIDOR OF THE NATIONAL CLUB, LIMA 212
ANNUAL PROCESSION IN HONOR OF SAINT ROSE OF LIMA 213
ROAD TO THE BEACH, CHORILLOS 214
PORTRAIT. BY ALBERT LYNCH 216
DR. RICARDO PALMA, DIRECTOR OF THE NATIONAL LIBRARY, LIMA 217
INTERIOR OF THE NATIONAL LIBRARY, LIMA 219
PATIO OF THE NATIONAL LIBRARY, LIMA 221
DR. JOSÉ ANTONIO MIRÓ QUESADA, THE NESTOR OF THE PERUVIAN
PRESS 224
COLUMBUS BEFORE THE UNIVERSITY OF SALAMANCA, BY IGNACIO
MERINO 225
THE DISILLUSION OF THE ARTIST. BY DANIEL HERNANDEZ 226
THE CHARMER. BY ABELARDO ALVAREZ CALDERON 227
UNE PARISIENNE. BY ALBERT LYNCH 228
DOLCE FAR NIENTE. BY DANIEL HERNANDEZ 230
UNIVERSITY OF SAN MARCOS, LIMA 232
DR. LUIS F. VILLARÁN, RECTOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SAN
MARCOS 233
CLOISTER OF THE NATIONAL COLLEGE OF GUADALUPE, LIMA 235
DR. MANUEL BARRIOS, DEAN OF THE FACULTY OF MEDICINE, LIMA 236
THE FACULTY OF MEDICINE, LIMA 237
DR. JAVIER PRADO Y UGARTECHE, DEAN OF THE LITERARY
FACULTY, UNIVERSITY OF SAN MARCOS 238
THE NATIONAL SCHOOL OF AGRICULTURE, LIMA 239
THE SCHOOL OF ARTS AND TRADES, LIMA 241
THE SCHOOL OF ENGINEERS, LIMA 242
THE COLLEGE OF LAW, LIMA 244
ALAMEDA DE LOS DESCALZOS, LIMA 246
STREET SCENE ON THE FEAST DAY OF LA MERCED, LIMA 247
OFFICES OF THE BENEVOLENT SOCIETY, LIMA 249
HOSPITAL DOS DE MAYO, LIMA 251
MILITARY HOSPITAL, LIMA 252
THE CATHEDRAL, AREQUIPA 254
ARCH AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE CATHEDRAL, AREQUIPA 255
THE CRATER OF THE MISTI 256
AREQUIPA AND THE MISTI 257
A CELEBRATION OF MASS ON THE SUMMIT OF THE MISTI 258
LOS PORTALES, AREQUIPA 259
PLAZA DE ARMAS, AREQUIPA 260
STREET SCENE, AREQUIPA 261
CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO, AREQUIPA 262
GENERAL VIEW OF THE BATHS OF YURA 263
AT THE BATHS OF YURA, AREQUIPA 263
BOLOGNESI PARK, AREQUIPA 264
AVENIDA DE TINGO, AREQUIPA 265
HARVARD OBSERVATORY AT AREQUIPA 266
CHANCHAMAYO, ON THE EASTERN SLOPE OF THE SIERRA 268
ON THE WAY TO MARKET 269
LAKE OF LA VIUDA, IN THE HIGH SIERRA 270
IN THE VALLEY OF ABANCAY 271
SCENE ON THE TUMBES RIVER 272
MONZON VALLEY, IN THE HUALLAGA REGION 273
ANCÓN, A COAST RESORT NEAR CALLAO 274
THE BELL ROCK OF ETEN 275
QUEBRADA SANTA ROSA, ANCASH DEPARTMENT 276
NATIVE BOATMEN ON LAKE TITICACA 278
A LAKE AMONG THE GLACIERS OF YAULI 280
NATURAL ARCH OF STONE AT HUANCANE, NEAR LAKE TITICACA 282
PREPARING GUANO FOR SHIPMENT 283
THE HOUR OF SIESTA FOR THE GUANO BIRDS 284
THE PELICAN AT HOME 285
GUANO ISLANDS OF LOBOS DE TIERRA 286
DIGGING GUANO ON THE CHINCHA ISLANDS 287
A GUANO PORT, CHINCHA ISLANDS 288
CALLE DE LIMA, CALLAO 290
MONUMENT TO ADMIRAL GRAU, CALLAO 291
THE DOCKS AT CALLAO 292
THE CUSTOM HOUSE, CALLAO 293
STATUE OF THE LIBERATOR, CALLAO 294
UNLOADING LUMBER AT CALLAO 295
CALLAO HARBOR 295
PIER OF THE ARSENAL, CALLAO 296
PASSENGERS LANDING AT ETEN FROM A STEAMER OF THE PACIFIC
LINE 297
PREFECTURE, CALLAO 298
A TYPICAL HACIENDA OF THE COAST REGION 300
PICTURESQUE GARDEN ON A RICE PLANTATION 301
IRRIGATING CANAL ON A PIURA PLANTATION 302
LOADING SUGAR-CANE, SANTA BARBARA PLANTATION, CAÑETE 303
PIER AND WAREHOUSES OF THE BRITISH SUGAR COMPANY, LIMITED,
AT CERRO AZUL 304
FERREÑAFE, A FLOURISHING CENTRE OF THE RICE INDUSTRY 305
A HOLIDAY IN CHICLAYO 306
WORKMEN ON A COAST PLANTATION 307
STREET AND OLD CHURCH OF LAMBAYEQUE 307
PATAPO, DEPARTMENT OF LAMBAYEQUE 308
HUARAZ, CAPITAL OF THE DEPARTMENT OF ANCASH 309
PORT OF PACASMAYO 310
THE CHICAMA RIVER, DEPARTMENT OF LA LIBERTAD 312
HUACO DEL SOL, TRUJILLO 313
GALLERY OF THE PALACE OF JUSTICE, TRUJILLO 314
CALLE DEL COMERCIO, TRUJILLO 315
PICTURESQUE ROAD THROUGH A SUGAR ESTATE 316
A CORRAL ON A SUGAR ESTATE, CHICAMA VALLEY 317
A LOAD OF CANE READY FOR THE FACTORY 319
MAIN ENTRANCE TO A SUGAR HACIENDA NEAR TRUJILLO 320
THE CHAPEL OF A HACIENDA AT GALINDO 321
PARK OF LA LIBERTAD, TRUJILLO 322
ADMINISTRATION HOUSE OF A SUGAR ESTATE IN THE CHICAMA
VALLEY 323
A SUGAR FACTORY OF THE CHICAMA VALLEY 324
PAITA, THE CHIEF SHIPPING PORT FOR PERUVIAN COTTON 326
A COTTON PLANT ON A PIURA PLANTATION 327
A BUSY THOROUGHFARE OF CATACAOS 328
ALGARROBA TREES ON A PIURA PLANTATION 330
IRON BRIDGE OVER THE PIURA RIVER 331
THE MARKET PLACE AT CATACAOS 332
A “BALSA” LOADED WITH FREIGHT, PAITA 334
SUBMARINE BLASTING OFF MOLLENDO 335
MOQUEGUA, A WINE-GROWING CENTRE OF THE SOUTHERN COAST
REGION 336
THE LANDING PIER OF THE PORT OF PISCO 337
AVENUE OF WILLOW TREES ON A SOUTHERN COAST HACIENDA 338
HARVESTING ALFALFA ON THE FRISCO HACIENDA, NEAR MOLLENDO 338
SCENE ON A POULTRY FARM IN SOUTHERN AREQUIPA 339
A MILK VENDER ON HER WAY TO MARKET 340
THE SAMA VALLEY, TACNA 342
A VENERABLE PALM OF TACNA 343
BRIDGE ACROSS THE SAMA RIVER, PROVISIONAL BOUNDARY BETWEEN
PERU AND CHILE 344
SNOW PEAKS ON THE BOLIVIAN BORDER, TACNA 345
CALLE SAN MARTIN, NEAR PARK ENTRANCE, TACNA 346
VIEW OF THE SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA, TACNA 347
EL CHUPIQUIÑA, AN EXTINCT VOLCANO IN TACNA 348
A GOLD TRAIN EN ROUTE FROM SANTO DOMINGO TO TIRAPATA WITH
BULLION IN BARS 350
SCENE AT THE BORAX MINES OF AREQUIPA 352
HUÁNUCO 353
CAILLOMA MINES, ALTITUDE SEVENTEEN THOUSAND FEET,
DEPARTMENT OF AREQUIPA 354
CARMEN SHAFT, CERRO DE PASCO MINES 355
THE INCA MINING COMPANY’S OFFICE AT SANTO DOMINGO, BUILT
OF MAHOGANY 356
THE MAIN STREET OF CERRO DE PASCO 357
A MINING TOWN OF THE PUNA 358
LLAMAS AND DONKEYS AWAITING CARGO AT CERRO DE PASCO 359
OLD CHURCH IN THE MINING TOWN OF CAILLOMA 360
MINERS ARRIVING AT AN INN IN THE SIERRA 361
SAN JULIAN MINE, CASTROVIRREINA 362
THE MINING TOWN OF CASAPALCA, DEPARTMENT OF LIMA 363
HEADQUARTERS OF THE CERRO DE PASCO MINING COMPANY AT CERRO
DE PASCO 364
THE PICTURESQUE CURVE OF SAN BARTOLOMÉ, OROYA ROUTE 366
CHOSICA BRIDGE, OROYA ROUTE 367
CHOSICA, A HEALTH RESORT ON THE OROYA ROUTE 368
MATUCANA, EIGHT THOUSAND FEET ABOVE THE SEA, OROYA ROUTE 369
RAILWAY STATION IN THE SIERRA, OROYA ROUTE 370
CHILCA, A MINING TOWN ON THE OROYA ROUTE 371
OROYA 372
GALERA TUNNEL, HIGHEST POINT ON THE OROYA RAILWAY, NEARLY
SEVENTEEN THOUSAND FEET ABOVE THE SEA 374
STONE ROADWAY ACROSS THE HUALLAGA RIVER, IN HUÁNUCO 376
IRON BRIDGE OVER THE URUBAMBA RIVER 377
ANCIENT SUSPENSION BRIDGE ON THE ROAD FROM HUANCAYO TO
CAÑETE 378
RAILWAY UP THE SIERRA FROM MOLLENDO TO AREQUIPA 379
MOLLENDO, TERMINUS OF THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY 380
THE TOWN OF MOLLENDO 380
NEW RAILWAY BRIDGE AND OLD COACH ROAD BETWEEN SICUANI AND
CUZCO 381
ANCIENT VIADUCT SOTOCCHACA, AYACUCHO 382
RAILWAY ENGINEERS’ CAMP ON THE LINE BETWEEN CHECCACUPE AND
CUZCO 383
HIGHWAY BETWEEN THE SIERRA AND THE MONTAÑA, IN THE
DEPARTMENT OF JUNÍN 384
VIEW OF THE VALLEY BETWEEN SICUANI AND CUZCO, SOUTHERN
ROUTE 385
SOUTHERN RAILWAY STATION, AREQUIPA 386
LLAMAS OF PUNO EMBARKING ON A BALSA, LAKE TITICACA 388
A NATIVE FAMILY OF THE PUNA 389
THE PRINCIPAL PLAZA OF PUNO 390
SHEEP ON THE PASTURES OF ANCASH 391
LLAMAS GRAZING ON THE PUNA 392
ARCHED GATEWAY OF PUNO 393
LLAMAS—SHOWING ONE RECENTLY SHEARED 394
CUZCO, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF THE INCAS’ EMPIRE 396
ANCIENT ADOBE ARCHWAY NEAR CUZCO 397
A FEAST DAY CELEBRATION, SHOWING THE UNIVERSITY AND THE
JESUITS’ CHURCH, CUZCO 398
INTERIOR OF THE JESUITS’ CHURCH, CUZCO 399
THE PREFECTURE, CUZCO 400
CALLE MARQUEZ, CUZCO 401
THE UNIVERSITY OF CUZCO 402
VENDERS IN THE ARCADE, CUZCO 403
A RELIGIOUS PROCESSION IN CUZCO 404
A RUBBER ESTABLISHMENT IN THE DEPARTMENT OF LORETO 406
INDIANS CARRYING COCA TO MARKET 407
CANOEING ON THE HUALLAGA RIVER 408
SHIPYARD AT ASTILLERO, WHERE THE INCA MINING COMPANY’S
FIRST STEAMER WAS BUILT 409
CHICAPLAYA, IN THE HEART OF THE MONTAÑA 410
CHUNCHO INDIANS OF THE PENEDO VALLEY 411
MASISEA, THE FIRST WIRELESS TELEGRAPH STATION BUILT
BETWEEN PUERTO BERMUDEZ AND IQUITOS 412
A TURBULENT TRIBUTARY OF THE MADRE DE DIOS RIVER 413
A RUBBER CAMP IN THE MONTAÑA 414
RAPIDS ON THE TAMBOPATA RIVER 414
A TYPICAL SCENE ON THE WATERWAYS OF THE UPPER AMAZON 415
SCENE ON THE MADRE DE DIOS RIVER NEAR MALDONADO 416
HOSPITALITY IN THE RUBBER COUNTRY 417
THE BOOTH PIER, IQUITOS 418
ONE OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS OF IQUITOS 419
CALLE DE MORONA, IQUITOS 419
RIVER SCENE NEAR IQUITOS 420
A VIEW OF IQUITOS FROM THE RIVER 421
THE CUSTOM HOUSE AT IQUITOS 422
A ROAD THROUGH THE VIRGIN FOREST TO PUERTO BERMUDEZ 424
AN ENGINEERS’ CAMP AT PUERTO BERMUDEZ ON THE PICHIS RIVER 425
THE CONFLUENCE OF THE CHUCHURAL AND PALCAZU RIVERS 427
PUERTO CLEMENT 428
FORDING THE INAMBARI RIVER 429
TABATINGA, ON THE FRONTIER BETWEEN PERU AND BRAZIL 430
COLONISTS OF THE SIERRA 431
IN THE HEART OF THE MINING REGION 433
A FOREIGN COLONY IN THE RUBBER COUNTRY 434
A FERTILE VALLEY FOR COLONIZATION IN THE APURIMAC REGION 435
AN INGENIOUS PROSPECTOR’S HOUSE IN THE FOREST 436
THE VICTORIA COTTON MILLS, LIMA 438
AN INDIAN WEAVING THE PONCHO 439
THE LIMA SAVINGS BANK 442
THE BANCO POPULAR, LIMA 443
A NATIVE INDUSTRY OF THE COAST REGION 445
A COCAINE FACTORY IN THE MONZON VALLEY 446
THE ITALIAN BANK, LIMA 448
VESTIBULE OF THE BANK OF LONDON AND PERU, LIMA 449
PERUVIAN COTTON IN THE FACTORY 450
A QUICHUA MOTHER 451
DESCENDANTS OF THE INCAS’ SUBJECTS 452
A TYPE OF THE AMAZON INDIAN 453
THE SCION OF A NOBLE FAMILY OF THE FOREST 453
ALCALDES, WITH VARAS, THE INSIGNIA OF THEIR AUTHORITY 454
AN INDIAN WOMAN OF LORETO 455
A NATIVE WEAVER, CHICLAYO 456
MAP OF PERU _Facing_ 456
INTRODUCTION
Universally known as a land of untold antiquity, of fascinating romance
and marvellous traditions, Peru may be considered, from the standpoint
of history, the most interesting of all the South American countries.
The revelations of scientific research are daily adding to the record of
its glory in the remote past, when the Incas and their predecessors
ruled with theocratic sway over a large part of the continent and lived
in barbaric splendor at Cuzco, at Chan-Chan, or at some other of the
great pre-Columbian capitals, the ruins of which to-day excite the
admiration of archæologists and the enthusiasm of sightseers. The
literature of the country, also, is constantly revealing new phases of
the national life as it existed in ancient times, and especially in the
more recent period of the Spanish viceroyalty. Unlimited wealth, easily
acquired through the labor of the conquered race in the rich mines of
the sierra during colonial days, led to the greatest extravagance,
though at the same time it provided ample means for travel and study,
the benefits of which became apparent in the fine culture of the
people—a culture which has left its impress on succeeding generations of
Peruvians, giving them the reputation they enjoy to-day of being
essentially a gentle and polished nation.
But, although scientific investigation and literary skill have added
much within recent years to what was already more or less generally
known about Peru, and the land of the Incas and the viceroys has been
made a more charming subject than ever before as regards its antiquity
and romance, yet the Peru of to-day, the real Peru, has received
comparatively little attention from writers and travellers, and is still
almost an unknown country to the average reader. The purpose of the
present volume is to present a passing glimpse of the Old Peru—the whole
story of which can only be told in many volumes—and to give a faithful
description of the progress and development that are evident in every
feature of the national life as reflected in the social, political,
industrial, and commercial institutions of the New Peru. The prosperous
future of Peru is assured by the patriotism, energy, and enterprise that
are apparent in every feature of the national life, and it is certain
that the present century will see the wealth and greatness of the
country increased beyond anything dreamed of in the days of the Incas
and the viceroys. The spirit that won the national independence and
successfully established republican institutions lives to-day, and is
working for the ascendancy of the noblest ideals of the race.
In the preparation of this work, I found that the knowledge I had
previously gained through close association with the people of Latin
America during more than fifteen years’ journeying in these countries
was of the greatest advantage. Travelling in Peru was more like visiting
among friends than studying the manners and customs of a foreign people,
and the uniform kindness and hospitality everywhere shown me made my
experience in this beautiful land one of constant pleasure and of
enduring memory. I sincerely appreciate the great assistance rendered me
in securing information from government sources, from the public
libraries and from many kind friends in every part of Peru, and I take
this opportunity of expressing my thanks, from my heart. It is
impossible to live in Peru without learning to love the country and its
people, and while I have tried to allow no partiality to influence my
judgment in writing this book, I cannot do otherwise than present to the
reader what I found most interesting in my own study of the Old and the
New Peru.
MARIE ROBINSON WRIGHT.
_Philadelphia, September 20, 1908._
THE OLD AND THE NEW PERU
CHAPTER I
ANCIENT PERU—PRE-INCAIC MONUMENTS
[Illustration: GIRDLE FOUND IN THE CEMETERY OF PACHACÁMAC.]
The historian of the Conquerors who described the newly discovered Peru
as “the Ophir of the Occident” gave it a name which modern research
proves to have been singularly appropriate. Not only in wealth, but in
antiquity, this interesting country is comparable to the fabled land of
the East from which the emissaries of King Solomon brought so many
luxuries to please the taste of their royal master. There are eminent
writers and students of the records of ancient times who are of the
opinion that the famous Ophir of the Bible was no other than ancient
Peru, and that the Phœnicians—those intrepid navigators of past
ages—visited its shores and were the founders of its earliest
civilization.
But speculation as to the origin of the ancient Peruvians covers such an
extensive field that almost every writer on the subject has a distinct
opinion; and every nation of the Orient has been supposed, by one
authority or another, to have laid the foundation of Peruvian culture.
The most popular theory gives to China the credit of introducing the
earliest civilization on the American continent; and in support of this
belief many parallels are drawn between the Mongolians and the primitive
races of the New World in their traditions, customs, and, particularly,
the similarity of their features. In some parts of the coast district of
Peru, the indigenes do not speak Quichua, as do the descendants of the
Incas’ people, but have a language which is said to be easily understood
by the Chinese; and there is, apparently, a close analogy between the
ancient creeds of the coast Indians and Chinese worship. According to
several authorities, the traditional heroes of Peruvian and Mexican
civilization were Buddhist priests. In this connection it is worthy of
mention that some of the _huacas_ which have been taken from ancient
cemeteries on the coast, bear a marked resemblance to the well-known
idols of Buddhist worship. The name _huaca_ is given to all consecrated
relics in these ancient burials, including the corpse and its wrappings,
as well as the innumerable articles of household and personal use,
ornaments and food, interred therewith. The custom of placing maize and
other edibles in the grave, and (as has been found in some cases) of
putting a coin in the mouth of the deceased, affords proof that these
ancients believed in a future life. Most of the interments were made in
huge mounds, called _huacas_, built of sun-dried bricks, or, in the
earliest periods, of round balls of mud.
[Illustration: SOUTHWESTERN PART OF PACHACÁMAC. VIEWED FROM THE NORTH.]
From whatever source Peru derived its earliest culture, everything
indicates that at some period, probably at various times during the
early ages, immigrants arrived in the country from Asiatic shores. The
most eminent authorities, among them the Peruvian scholars Dr. Pablo
Patron, Dr. Larrabure y Unanue, and others who have made a scientific
study of the antiquity of their country, agree in the belief that there
were several early immigrations to Peru from China and Japan. A few even
accept the theory that the origin of the advanced races who first
peopled the ancient world of the West is to be traced to a lost
“Atlantis” and a submerged “Lemuria,” supposed to have been great
continents in a past age, whose inhabitants, rivalling the ancient
Egyptians in culture, lived in close communication with America, and
gave it the basis of its earliest civilization. Conservative scholars
are disposed to give little attention to purely speculative theories,
and prefer to seek the solution of the problem by the most practical
methods.
It is to the honor of Peru that the government, recognizing the
importance of exploring its great treasure-store of antiquities in the
interest of modern knowledge, is directing a systematic effort to
penetrate the veil of mystery which envelopes the remote past of the
country and its people. Dr. Max Uhle, an eminent authority on Peruvian
archæology, is now occupied in the work of excavating and classifying
Peruvian antiquities in accordance with modern scientific methods. The
facts so far accumulated from reliable archæological data point to an
antiquity of at least three thousand years, and may indicate a much more
remote period of culture.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE PRINCIPAL PALACE OF PACHACÁMAC.]
Long ages before the New World was discovered by Europeans, and
centuries before the Incas established their wonderful empire, Peru was
the home of a mighty race, or of successive races, whose dominion
extended at some time over a great part of tropical America. The records
of their advancement still exist in the stupendous ruins of their sacred
temples and in the objects of art and evidences of culture found in
their burial mounds.
Like the various nations of the Orient, these ancients of the New World
had their ambitious struggles for supremacy one against another, their
periods of great prosperity and power,—sometimes arriving at the height
of despotic rule over all contemporaries,—and their time of decline
before the ascendancy of a more potent rival. The record of changes
wrought in successive periods, and of influences resulting from
communication between the inhabitants of widely separated regions, is
written in their monuments and in the huacas of their cemeteries, and
furnishes the key to the chronology of prehistoric Peru, possibly to all
American antiquity.
[Illustration: THE EASTERN STREET OF PACHACÁMAC.]
Interesting ruins abound in every part of Peru, from the environs of the
capital to the most remote districts of the frontier. Within a few
hours’ ride of Lima are situated the ancient necropolis of Ancón and the
temple of Pachacámac, where recent excavations have brought to light
many interesting prehistoric relics. In no other land do the same
conditions exist as in Peru, where the archæologist has advantages in
the pursuit of his investigations which the countries of the ancient
Egyptians, Babylonians, and Greeks do not afford. Here it is possible to
study, at first hand, many of the customs that prevailed long before the
advent of the Spaniards, as they are still practised in the sierra,
where the same feast days have been observed from time immemorial, the
same methods of spinning and weaving are followed to-day as in
prehistoric ages, the picturesque and brilliantly colored costumes of
their ancestors are yet in vogue among the indigenes, and even a few of
the wonderful dyes, which excel in permanence those of the best European
markets, are made to-day by these children of an ancient race, as they
were by their forefathers in centuries past.
The most ancient civilization in Peru of which traces have been found up
to the present time was developed in the coast region, around Nasca and
Ica in the southern district and near Trujillo in the north; and the
traveller whose interest in antiquities induces him to pay a visit to
this country can see some of the most remarkable ruins on the American
continent without the inconvenience of making a long and fatiguing
overland journey, as the ocean steamers of the South Pacific call at
ports in the immediate neighborhood of extensive ruins of prehistoric
cities. Along the coast may also be seen shell mounds and other
fragments of a primitive age, showing that in a very remote period the
inhabitants subsisted almost entirely on sea food; though nothing has
been found to indicate that these people were in any way related to the
races that attained, at a later date, such a high degree of culture as
that represented in the monuments, potteries, and particularly in the
textiles, of Nasca, Pachacámac, and Trujillo. The textiles of ancient
Peru are marvellous in quality, design, and coloring, and are the
especial delight and admiration of the archæologist.
[Illustration: TERRACES OF THE SOUTHEAST FRONT OF PACHACÁMAC, WITH
CEMETERY OF SACRIFICED WOMEN.]
[Illustration: A VIEW OF THE SUN TEMPLE OF PACHACÁMAC, SHOWING NICHED
WALLS.]
Pachacámac, situated about twenty-five miles south of Lima, in the
valley of Lurin, overlooking the sea, is, in some respects, the most
interesting prehistoric monument of Peru. Nearly all travellers who
visit Lima spend a day among these crumbling walls and burial mounds.
The first part of the journey to Pachacámac lies across the Rimac
valley, which is itself famous in ancient legends as the site of a
wonderful temple dedicated to the oracle “Rimac,” the name signifying
“one who speaks.” The remains of this great edifice—once almost as
celebrated for splendor and riches as that of Pachacámac—are still to be
seen just outside of Lima. Between the valleys of Rimac and Lurin, a
desert waste of sand extends, known as the Tablada de Lurin; it is a
welcome relief when this part of the ride is over and the green meadows
of Lurin appear in view, though even the desert has its unspeakable
charm. Several hills rise two or three hundred feet above the level of
the desert, and among these hills the ancient city of Pachacámac was
located. The area within the outer walls that enclose the ruins measures
nearly three miles in length by two in breadth, the chief interest being
centred in the space occupied by the walls of the temple erected to the
god Pachacámac. It was while excavating in these ruins a few years ago
that Dr. Uhle made the discoveries which laid the foundation for a new
classification of Peruvian antiquities, in accordance with the evidences
of successive periods of culture. Previous to that time, all the objects
taken from Peruvian cemeteries and placed on exhibition in the museums
of Europe and North America, were arranged in a manner to give the
impression that they represented various phases of one continuous period
of culture. Carved monoliths, mummies, and vessels of gold, silver, and
pottery, were disposed of with no more definite clue to their origin
than was afforded by a statement of the locality from which they had
been taken and the circumstances and date of their excavation. A
scientific exploration of the ruins of Pachacámac has revealed the fact
that its great temple outlasted several successive ages of culture, and
that its other edifices were constructed at later periods, the Incas
having built a Temple of the Sun and a convent for the Virgins of the
Sun close to the ancient shrine of Pachacámac, whose name signifies “The
Creator of the World.” The temple of the “Creator God” has undergone
many changes. Excavations show that the original edifice was destroyed
long centuries ago, whether by earthquake or in a mighty conflict with a
rival people is not known, and that a cemetery at its base was buried in
the débris. A larger temple was afterward erected on the same site,
immediately over the earlier edifice, the terraces of the later
structure covering the débris under which the older cemetery was
located. The burial place of the larger temple, as well as that of the
original building, was found to be filled with graves, the worshippers
of Pachacámac having come to this shrine as the Mohammedans flocked to
Mecca centuries later, feeling that they had gained the greatest of all
blessings if they could but be buried within the sacred city. It is
estimated that thirty thousand of the faithful were interred in the
cemetery of Pachacámac. An examination of the _huacas_ found in the
various strata of these ruins shows the influence of five separate
periods on the culture of this region, and has enabled the archæologist
to determine the antiquity of Pachacámac relative to that of other
ancient ruins, such as those of Tiahuanaco in Bolivia and the more
recent edifices of Incaic origin. It is regarded as certain that the
oldest temple of Pachacámac represents an earlier period than does
Tiahuanaco, though the latter antedates by many centuries the monuments
of Inca civilization. The art displayed in the shape and design of some
of the vessels taken from the cemetery of Pachacámac bears a
resemblance, in the earlier period, to that seen in the _huacas_ of
Tiahuanaco, and, in its latest expression, to the art of the Incaic
civilization; this would seem to indicate that at least three successive
cultures dominated the whole of ancient Peru, with long periods of
transition intervening, when the country was divided and governed by
numerous races of more or less advanced culture.
[Illustration: RUINS OF THE CONVENT, PACHACÁMAC.]
[Illustration: HUACAS FROM THE GRAVES OF PACHACÁMAC.]
[Illustration: PRE-INCAIC POTTERY FROM PACHACÁMAC.]
Why did the ancient Peruvians choose, as the site of one of their
greatest temples, a strip of arid plain, when a vast region lay before
them, presenting every variety of blessing which a bountiful Nature and
beneficent Providence could bestow upon a favored land? This question is
suggested not only as one contemplates the ruins of Pachacámac, but also
in the presence of the temple and monoliths of Tiahuanaco. Was it that
fear was the directing impulse, and a desire to propitiate an evil deity
was stronger than the inspiration to adore a beneficent and beloved
creator? In a land of snow-capped mountains, unfathomable cañons, and
varied climate, where stupendous evidences of an omnipotent power were
constantly present to impress the imagination of a primitive people, and
the changes wrought by Nature were sometimes sudden and disastrous, as
in the case of earthquakes and tidal waves, it is not strange that, as
is seen in India, where similar conditions prevailed, the dawning
intelligence of a primitive race was apparently dominated by fear rather
than love in the exercise of its religion. An explanation of the choice
of locality for the temple of Pachacámac is afforded by the following
legend, the origin of which is said to be very ancient. The
distinguished author of the archæological treatise _Pachacámac_ relates
the story: “In the beginning of the world there was no food for a man
and a woman whom the god Pachacámac had created. The man starved, but
the woman survived. One day, as she was searching among the thorn bushes
for roots with which to stay her hunger, she lifted up her eyes to the
sun and with tears and lamentation cried: ‘Beloved Creator of all
things! Why hast thou brought me into the light of this world if I am to
die of hunger and want? Oh, that thou hadst not created me out of
nothing, or hadst suffered me to die immediately on entering the world,
instead of leaving me alone in it without children to succeed me, poor,
cast down, and sorrowful! Why, O Sun, having created us, why wilt thou
let us perish? And if thou art the Giver of Light, why art thou so
niggardly as to refuse me my nourishment? Thou hast no pity and heedst
not the sorrow of those whom thou hast created only to their misery.
Cause heaven to slay me with lightning or earth to swallow me, or give
me food, for thou, Almighty One, hast made me!’ The sun, touched with
pity, descended to her and bade her give up her fears and hope for
comfort, for she would soon be delivered from the cause of her trouble.
One day, while she was wearily searching for roots, she became
impregnated with his rays and bore a son after four days. But
Pachacámac, who was the son of the Sun, was angry with the woman for
having worshipped his father and for having borne him a son in defiance
of himself; he seized the newborn demigod and cut him to pieces. In
order, however, that the woman should not suffer for lack of food, he
sowed the dismembered parts of the boy, and the harvest was a bountiful
one; from the teeth grew corn; from the ribs and bones sprang the yucca
and other roots; from the flesh appeared vegetables and fruits. Since
that time, men have known no more want, and they owe this abundance of
food to Pachacámac. But the mother mourned for her child and appealed
again to the Sun. Again the Sun was moved to pity and he commanded her
to bring him the umbilical cord of the murdered child; into it he put
life, and gave her another son, whom she called Wichama, who grew strong
and powerful and, when a young man, set out to travel like his father,
the Sun. But as soon as Wichama left his mother, Pachacámac slew her and
caused the birds to devour her, all but the hair and bones, which he
concealed near the shore. Then Pachacámac created men and women who were
to take possession of the earth, and he set up Curacas and Caciques to
rule over them. But when Wichama, returning, found that his mother had
been slain, he was in a terrible rage, and commanded her bones to be
brought to him; these he joined together and he brought her back to
life. The two then planned revenge against Pachacámac, who, rather than
struggle with his second brother, threw himself into the sea from the
spot where his temple now stands. When Wichama saw his enemy escape from
him, he was in a fury of rage and with the breath of his nostrils he set
fire to the air and scorched the fields. He accused the inhabitants of
having aided Pachacámac and besought his father to turn them to stone.
His request was granted, but both the Sun and Wichama repented of this
terrible deed, and caused the petrified Curacas and Caciques to be set
up and worshipped, some on the shore and others in the sea, where they
still stand as rocks and reefs.” The same authority interprets the story
as a myth of the Seasons, describing the phenomena of nature, as
annually repeated in the climate of the coast land. The description of
climatic conditions shows, as the most characteristic feature, the
annually repeated struggle of the vegetation of the valley, which
depends entirely on artificial irrigation, against the scorching heat of
the sun. The former is personified in the god Pachacámac. The Sun, with
whom Pachacámac carries on his struggle, represents the solar year; the
first solar son, whom Pachacámac kills, represents possibly the spring
sun before the rising of the highland rivers, when the season of
fruitfulness begins; the scattering of the teeth and bones of the
murdered son produces the fertility of the soil. The woman who bears a
son to the Sun god is the year; from a needy but toil-free life in the
wilderness, Pachacámac leads her to a life of care and toil, such as
cultivation of the fields requires; still grieving over the death of her
first son, she is given Wichama, the autumn and winter Sun, with whom
Pachacámac enters into a struggle. The woman grows old as does the year;
Pachacámac kills her—as the year ends with the harvest. After the
ingathering of the harvest and the autumnal decrease of the rivers,
Pachacámac is unable to resume the struggle; his flight into the ocean
to escape Wichama corresponds to the protecting cover of dense fogs
which every winter overspread the parched fields. The Sun hero wreaks
his vengeance on the fields of the fog region which even in winter are
exposed to the arid sun.
[Illustration: CURIOUS SYMBOLS OF PACHACÁMAC WORSHIP.]
[Illustration: FAÇADE OF THE PALACE OF CHAN-CHAN, NEAR TRUJILLO.]
Mythical legends are related of three principal deities that were
worshipped by the ancient Peruvians. Of these, an important place is
given to the great god Con, who, according to tradition, was invisible,
possessing “no bones, nerves, or extremities,” and who “travelled with
the swiftness of spirits.” He levelled the sierras, filled up the
cañons, and covered the earth with fruits and everything necessary for
the sustenance of men and women, so that they might enjoy abundance.
But, unappreciative of their blessings, the people of the coast gave
themselves up to all manner of evil and forgot their benefactor. Con,
indignant over their corruption, transformed them into black cats and
other ill-favored animals, denied them the blessing of rain, and changed
their happy and fruitful land into an arid desert. According to the same
legend, Pachacámac, restored fertility to the earth and created a new
race of men, the ancestors of the present Indians. Besides Con and
Pachacámac, there was also the mighty Viracocha, the god of the deluge,
who rose from the waters of Lake Titicaca, made the heavens and the
earth, and, before creating the light of day, peopled the earth with its
first inhabitants. These were afterward changed to stone because of
their disobedience; but in order that the darkness should disappear and
Peru be peopled, Viracocha appeared again—this time with followers—and
created the sun and the stars and formed models of the future Peruvians;
the images, representing men, women, and children, he distributed
throughout the different provinces. He then sent his followers to the
different regions to animate these models, which was done by the
invocation, “Arise and people this earth, which is barren and solitary!
Thus commands Viracocha, who is the creator of the world!” In response
to these words the images became possessed of life and appeared on the
mountains, in the valleys, beside the rivers, everywhere. A few beings,
created to fulfil a special destiny, were animated by Viracocha himself,
and as soon as they recognized their creator, they erected a temple of
worship in his honor. The Spanish historian, Sebastian Lorente, who
relates the legends of Con, Pachacámac, and Viracocha in his interesting
and valuable work on Peru, impressed by the evident relation existing
between the three great deities, infers that in ancient Peru there were
three principal centres of population and culture,—the coast, the
sierra, and the Titicaca plateau. These centres did not arrive at the
height of their power contemporaneously, nor were they necessarily
related to one another, though the influence of each one is seen, in
some degree, in the development of all three. A distinct, and
undoubtedly a very ancient, architecture prevails in the temples,
palaces, and pyramids of the coast, unidentified either with that of the
interior valleys or of the high plateau. The magnificent ruins of Chimu
culture, as seen in the great walls of Chan-Chan, which measure from
twenty to thirty feet in height, and show wonderful designs and stucco
work on their surface, as well as the monuments of an earlier people, as
seen at Huaca del Sol, near Moche, and the temple Pachacámac, are of a
different character from the edifices of Huánuco Viejo in the sierra, of
Sacsahuaman at Cuzco, and of the pillars and round tower (Pelasgian
style) in Puno; while these latter ruins bear little relation in
construction to the cyclopean edifices of Tiahuanaco, in Bolivia, the
centre of what is sometimes called the Aymará culture.
[Illustration: CARVED TERRACES OF THE PALACE OF CHAN-CHAN.]
[Illustration: ANIMAL CARVINGS ON THE WALLS OF CHAN-CHAN.]
Aside from their scientific importance, the antiquities of Peru are
interesting to travellers because they have many features that appeal to
one’s imagination and love of mystery. They lie out of the beaten track
of the sightseer, who journeys annually, guide-book in hand, to gaze on
the ruins of their Egyptian and Pelasgian contemporaries in the Old
World. But they possess the greater fascination of the unsolved problem,
made doubly attractive by apparently innumerable “clues,” which
stimulate the imagination and tempt one to construct independent
theories as to their origin and antiquity. Karnak and the Pyramids may
be no more ancient than Nasca; certainly the Sphinx is not nearly so
great an enigma as are the _huacas_ of Trujillo and Ancón cemeteries;
and there is nothing in Oriental antiquities that quite resembles the
mummies taken out of one of these mysterious burial mounds.
[Illustration: RUINS OF CHAN-CHAN.]
The method of preparing the ancient Peruvian corpse for burial was
unique, though it cannot be couriered artistic, as, at first sight, the
_huaca_ looks like a large sack well filled and bound around with a
network of ropes. The process of unwrapping, which is a long one,
reveals the corpse in a sitting posture, with the arms clasping the
knees and the head bent over. Sometimes the swathings are of finely
woven vicuña cloth, and ornaments of gold and silver are hung on the
corpse, beautiful and costly vases and various other articles of value
being placed beside it. From a study of these articles it has been
possible to learn, to some extent, what the mode of life was among these
ancient people, and many of the _huacas_ have furnished data of the
greatest importance. Fine textiles, woven in curious designs, are found
in most of the cemeteries; but in those of greatest antiquity no
textiles appear, and this fact affords a clue to their great age also,
as buried textiles have been found to outlast periods of fifteen hundred
years. The nitrous nature of the soil in which these burials have taken
place accounts for the wonderful preservation of the mummies, which are
really desiccated corpses. The burial of the poor was a simple ceremony
and in some cases consisted merely in depositing the corpse in a grave
in the sand; though, always, the treasures of the departed were placed
beside them, and it is not unusual to find tools, household utensils,
and articles of personal adornment scattered over the arid fields. The
great plain of Chimu, near Trujillo, which covers a territory twelve
miles long by six miles broad on the northern bank of the Moche River,
and which was so rich in buried treasure when the Spaniards first began
to plunder its temple, palaces, and burial ground, that the king’s fifth
of the gold taken out amounted, in 1576, to ten thousand ounces, is
literally strewn with human skulls, pieces of pottery, and other
_huacas_. The cemetery of Ancón has apparently inexhaustible treasures,
and excursion parties seldom return to Lima after a visit to its graves
without bringing trophies of their outing in the form of prehistoric
relics.
[Illustration: MORTUARY CLOTH WITH SYMBOLIC EMBLEMS.]
The contemplation of the ancient ruins of Peru stirs the imagination and
brings before the mental vision pictures of these people of a forgotten
past, with many fanciful ideas of their appearance and their origin, of
the lives they led, the religion they practised, and the predominating
social features of their civilization. Were they “a white and bearded
race” as some of the legends tell? Or did the natives emerge out of
barbarism and advance in culture, at first, unaided by outside
influences? Were the conditions in ancient Peru as favorable for the
evolution of human culture as those of ancient India and Egypt? One
would like to know, in reference to the ancient edifices, whose
crumbling ruins are still wonderful after the lapse of ages, who built
them, and what the elaborate picture writings on their walls mean to
tell us. It is said that the pre-Incaic people used hieroglyphics, but
that the knowledge of this art was lost or prohibited by the Incas.
Their civilization also gives evidence, in the ornamented pottery, the
carvings of intricate design, and the fine workmanship of their gold and
silver vessels, that its art surpassed, in technique and imagination,
the productions of later prehistoric periods. In the earliest ages two
closely related civilizations existed in the coast region of Peru, one
of them centred around Trujillo and the other in the vicinity of Nasca
and Ica, and, fine as they were, there is nothing similar to them in
later cultures. The southern form is especially notable for the
perfection of shape and decoration of its pottery, the freedom and
breadth of its style; while the northern form is more distinguished by
the harmony and greatness of its development. Gold, silver, and copper
abounded and were wrought into manifold shapes; gold was cast and
chased, soldered with copper and silver, or used as plating over copper
and inlaid with turquoises; mosaic was also known. This culture was
followed by that of the Tiahuanaco, which in the course of centuries
declined and was forgotten, until the appearance of the Incas, who
became the heirs of all the cultures which had preceded theirs in Peru.
[Illustration: FOUND IN THE BURIAL PLACE OF PACHACÁMAC.]
[Illustration: OLLANTAYTAMBO. ONCE THE FAVORITE RESIDENCE OF THE INCAS.]